Corolla Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement (2003-2008), Fixing Surging Cold Start Idle
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- Опубликовано: 15 июл 2024
- The first of a new series, Wrenchin’ on the ‘Rolla, where I work on my 2004 Corolla with 5 speed manual transmission, an ongoing project towards perfection. On today’s episode we replace the intake manifold gasket, as well as clean the throttle body and idle air control valve.
This tutorial covers the 2003-2008 (9th gen) North American Toyota Corolla, although for the 2005-2008 models the throttle body is slightly different, the intake manifold is the same for all years. It should cover the Toyota Matrix as well as Pontiac Vibe of the same generation as well, any model sharing the 1ZZ-FE engine (not the XRS/GT models with the 2ZZ-GE engine).
Links to the other two Wrenchin’ on the ‘Rolla videos filmed during this repair:
New Clutch & Flywheel: • Corolla Clutch & Flywh...
Shift Cable Bushings: • Corolla Shift Cable Bu...
Chapters:
00:00 - Introduction
00:42 - Cold start, showing the surging issue
01:23 - Other maintenance I’ve done already
01:58 - Overview of what needs to come out
02:44 - Throttle body differences, broke shaft
03:49 - Disassembly timelapse and tips
09:18 - Intake manifold close up view
10:22 - Throttle body removal/inspection
10:44 - Idle air control valve removal
11:02 - Cleaned parts, reassembly overview
13:35 - Reassembled everything, last tips
14:23 - Conclusion
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Another tip: carb cleaner/starting fluid. Start up the engine totally cold and spray one of these around the intake manifold edge where it seals to the block. If the RPMs go up you know there is a large leak sucking the fluid in. This is not a perfect test, you might not notice anything on a smaller gasket leak, but something easy to try I forgot for the video.
I love seeing young kids wrenching and continuing the tradition of skimming knuckles while saving bucks.
Excellent. I replaced intake gaskets on my 2006 Matrix (it's a corolla wagon) at 163k miles. Car has 199,000 miles now and runs perfect. Also, there are two ways to get more working room when replacing manifold gasket: You can remove the radiator shroud which takes less than 5 min. You can also remove the two studs on the block using a etorx #7 socket (or pliers)-so you don't have to pull it out and over the studs. Also, check that there is no oil leaking at the valve cover gasket, timing chain tensioner and VVT solenoid-those often leak, and are easy to fix.
Thanks for the comment and good advice!
I was just about to start tackling a job just like this, but your comment about the starting fluid is a great tip. I am hunting for vacuum leaks now, so as I wait for the gaskets for the throttle body and exhaust manifold arrive, I will start checking areas of concern for leaks...Your vids make me want to spend more time on my car, so thanks for the detailed work you do!
Thanks for the comment and support, and good luck finding your leak!
You did the right thing replacing other gaskets and replacing old rusty bolts as well.
I would only suggest applying a light coat of dielectric grease on those nipples before reinstalling coolant hoses. I do that on every hose of the coolant system and on spark plug boots.
The reason to have a coolant running through the throttle body assembly is to keep the throttle plates from freezing when is cold outside.
Thanks for the coolant hose tip and throttle body info, I never knew that.
@@BrenoAutoGarage You're welcome. You are doing a good job. I'm 57 years old and I learned a few useful tricks working on my cars.
Toyota needs its 237,000-mile tune-up, something most Fords will never live to see.
Haha, very funny and probably true!
I'm about to tackle this for a 2006 Corolla 4-cyl. Very helpful! Thanks!
Hey how did it go? Thanks for the comment.
Great 👍 job on the explanation, did mine last week ,I personally suggest moving the harness loom out of the way makes it simpler for removal and installation, thanks again.
this is a WONDERFUL video- thank you!!! great job!!!
Amazing what salt will do a vehicle! Good job on the corolla…please keep the videos coming!
Thanks for the comment! Indeed, it must be a different world working on cars that have not seen salted roads, much less frustration haha
@@BrenoAutoGarage I live on the West Coast of Canada and we don't have much rust on our cars. I never broke a bolt due to rust.
I live in Western Australia, my son has the same vehicle but it looks pristine compared to yours! We don’t have harsh winters, so we don’t get rust 😁
Thanks a lot
Great video. I replaced intake previously but I have a coolant leak from behind manifold. Installed dye in coolant, need to find small leak. Replaced thermostat and housing. I'm thinking it's the coolant bypass line attached above thermostat.
so what was it
Any updates on this gasket and IAC replacement/clean?
Mine has had this issue since I got it. My mechanic told me it was just simply something these cars did, glad I found your video. My PCV valve was evidently bad and was blowing black gunk into the intake manifold. Would you recommend replacing the entire manifold as a number of channels seem to here on YT? Or should I just try to clean some of the gunk out if possible?
I’ve never heard of replacing the manifold just for buildup. If it was cracked that’s another story, but just gunk I would pressure wash it out. Soak with some degreaser then hit with the water. Manual car wash wand works well too.
You did a great job overall mate. I need little suggestion, in regards to problematic engine. Would you recommend overhaul or swap? At the moment I have 2nz installed in my car and I am thinking of swaping it with 1nz.
Hello and thanks for the comment. I’m not familiar with either of those engines, but I think in general it is cheaper to get a junkyard engine (whichever you prefer) vs rebuilding a modern engine.j
Wikipedia is saying the 2NZ is a 1.3L, 1NZ is 1.5L. Unless there are known issues with one or the other I would prefer the slightly larger engine myself.
Is it necessary to remove the throttle body if I'm just replacing the intake manifold? That's a lot of extra work if I don't absolutely have to
where does that difficult vacuum hose go from on the back of the throttle body not the 2 coolant lines
Brake booster I believe
Smoke test or Carb Cleaner Spray unless you just want to change it.. I called a dealership and they said 2005 and up have the orange gasket upgrade that year so should be fine and not leak..
Interesting you mention it, I just pulled the intake from my 05 Matrix (same engine) and it has an orange gasket, in fair condition too.
Good advice to check for leaks, although this one is so easy it’s not a big deal. Thanks for the comment.
@BrenoAutoGarage I sprayed carb cleaner on one of my 2005s & it choked down.. Not the fuel injector seals so I am going in for meatball surgery to see if orange gasket.. I will put new one in... P0171 code... No other vac leaks... Might me upstream O2 sensor or PCV... I will check back with outcome..
Hi, just watched your video thanks very much great, i was just wondering did you need to bleed the coolant after you reconnected the coolant pipes to throttle body?
Thanks for the comment. No need to bleed, I’ve done it a few times no issues.
Thanks for getting back to me, I've ended up changing a few faulty throttle bodys since my comment, and problem is sorted now, thanks again for video 👌
It would be nice if you tested it after 1 day and recorded it on video.
Nice video, man.
I also have a 2004 Toyota Corolla LE with the exact throttle body, rust in the engine and rpm spike in the winter lol.
Question, the hose that sits on top of the throttle body, is that an air hose or does coolant run through that?
I am trying to replace my intake manifold gasket without removing any hoses that have coolant running through them.
Can you confirm how many hoses that TB has?
I believe only 3.
Thanks, and yes that sounds right, one big vacuum hose on top of the throttle body and two smaller coolant hoses going into the idle air control valve (connected to TB). The coolant hoses are very short, I’m not sure you’ll be able to move the throttle body far enough away with them connected, but if you do try let us know how it goes.
Only the two small hoses going into IACV have coolant, all others are vacuum/evap (air) hoses.
@@BrenoAutoGarage Awesome, thanks for your response. I do not plane on taking out the whole Intake Manifold.
Do you think it’s necessary to unscrew the Throttle Body if I am going to pull out the Intake Manifold and turn it to the right, enough room for cleaning and replacement of gasket?
@@futbolislife672 I’m not certain, but you could probably pull it off. Most of the vacuum hoses will still have to come off since they are made with very little slack. The trick will be if you have enough freedom with the coolant hoses attached to clear the two studs the manifold is held by.
If you try and it doesn’t seem to work just remove those IACV coolant hoses and you’d have no problem leaving the TB connected to the manifold.
If you are worried about coolant leaking and don’t have little plugs just push in a bolt of the right size or get a set of hose clamp pinch off pliers.
Anybody know why my alternator is full of oil? Man I've been searching for a leak but it's all over. All I know the alternator drenched in oil. Like soemthing is spraying it.
Possibly the VVTi solenoid seal (o-ring)? I would get put UV dye in the oil and a UV light to find the source. Let us know once you find it!
I own a 2002 Corolla but that car is not the issue, I'm having this same issue on a completely different car, My 2008 crown Vic does this in fall/winter cold starts. It starts up revs to 2500 RPMs drops to 1000 goes back up to 2000 RPMs, it does this for about 5 mins and completely smooths out at operating temp, I did change out normal items, plugs, coils air filter, fuel filter, cleaned EGR, cleaned MAF sensor, so I'm guessing the intake gaskets are shot
Very similar to my issue, in the summer I didn’t have the surging either. I’m not too familiar with that car, but I’d go for it if the intake is just sitting on top of the engine and nothing crazy has to come off. Sounds like you’ve covered everything else, good luck!
P.S. I just posted a pinned comment to this video for everyone, an easy tip you could try that might help.
Hi mate, do you recommend engine rebuild or swap if it's a toyota and 300k plus mileage. Many Thanks for your guide
I would look for a junkyard engine or if you have the extra money a low milage JDM engine would be even better.
if your engine isn't giving issues then don't do anything to it. save up for an engine swap in case when it does happen but don't throw away a 300k engine bro
if your engine isn't giving issues then don't do anything to it. save up for an engine swap in case when it does happen but don't throw away a 300k engine bro
Do you know what part # or size is the intake manifold bolt w/ washer? Specifically the bolt at the bottom of the manifold
I do not remember off hand, but this parts diagram should help: parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2004_Corolla-Sedan-CE-VIN-starts-with-2-MT-2WD/_51507_6725049/MANIFOLD/155450-1701.html
@@BrenoAutoGarage got it, it was 90119-08908 thank you!!
9:22, is that Toyota OEM part?
It looks like it is made of silicone rubber.
Yeah, modern Toyota OEM is orange and other companies like Fel Pro use blue but same material for these plastic toyota intake manifolds
@@BrenoAutoGarage I can't get this one from the Canadian Toyota dealership.
Hello, I have a 2000 camry 2.2l with high postive long term fuel trim at 20% at idle, but at higher rpm it drops to 5%, but I cannot find a leak, would a exhaust manifold or intake manifold leak would cuase this? I also have do NOT have check engine light on.
Positive fuel trim means the ECU is adding fuel because it thinks the engine is running lean. Many things can affect fuel trims (vacuum leaks, O2 sensor, fuel injectors, fuel pump, airflow sensor, running issues like misfires, and probably more I am forgetting), but since you say it drops as you increase RPM that does make sense there could be an air leak on the intake side, since as RPM increases manifold vacuum drops (less air getting sucked in the leak at higher RPM).
If your fuel pump is weak or injectors are clogged then at higher load, when more fuel is needed, the ECU would command more that what it was getting (increasing positive trim). Since you say trim goes down with RPM this is probably not it.
I have no experience with how sensors fail, but I would think they would deviate more from reality with increased input, resulting in the same story as fuel pump/injectors, more trim offset with more engine load. However, since it is so cheap, you could try some MAF cleaning spray anyways.
I would think an exhaust leak would have to be large (easily smelled) for such a percent of the exhaust gas to be leaving to throw off the O2 reading. A starting to fail (but not yet throwing codes) O2 sensor is possible but they are expensive to guess with.
I would try a smoke machine to look for intake leaks, or the classic technique of spraying carb cleaner all over the intake manifold and any connected tubes to see when the engine revs up, that is where the leak is. Check spark plugs are good too.
@@BrenoAutoGarage thank you for the reply, so far I have changed both 02 sensors, spark plugs, engine has no misfires according to obd2 scanner, valve cover, and tube seals, gasket, pcv valve and grommet oil change, used a couple upper cylinder fuel system cleaner , throttle body has been cleaned. But I do noticed when I revved the engine up I hear a leak or something. But maybe the donut gasket or exhaust manifold gasket is bad?
It sounds like you’ve tried all the easy things. If you think you have exhaust leaks you could spray soapy water on the exhaust manifold and exhaust gaskets, if you see bubbles there is a leak there.
I have yet to try to track down vacuum leaks myself, but aside from missing or cracked hoses the intake manifold gasket is the only common hard to identify place for a leak.
If you have done this much you must like working on cars, so a smoke machine may be a worthwhile investment. I am not sure how common it is on Toyotas, but something like worn throttle shaft bushings could be letting air in, and would be near impossible to see just looking around.
iac problem it is