Thank you! I just watched about a dozen videos and this has been by far and away the most informative. No other videos even mentions the importance of an air gap!
I agree with your conclusion that method #4 provides maximum benefits. I wish you would promote this in your other videos. Installers use your videos as examples of correct ways to place radiant barriers. Perhaps a digital thermometer readout on the attic side before insulation could highlight this point.
There are some metal roofing products that are considered "cool" "reflective" or low emissivity. However, just because something is shiny does not mean it will reflect heat. A chrome bumper of a car is very shiny, but I would not want to sit on one on a hot-sunny day.
Yes, In fact our new All In One Underlayment and Radiant Barrier is exactly the product you are looking for. It's Miami-Dade county approved which is the strictest certification for roofing products. www.roofingfoil.com/shop/single-sided-solid-foil-underlayment/ We can send you a sample or just call us for more info.
Great videos!!!! What happens if you install the Roofing Foil on the underside of the Roof Rafters (in the attic) and as you hav specified in this video? Do you get double protection? The question arose because a client has already installed the Roofing Foil on the underside of the roof rafters and now we are re-doing their entire roof. Thanks!
Installing the foil under the roof will yield a better benefit than installing inside the attic. As a rule, the further to the outside the better. In your case, I would definitely install under the roof. It's cheap, effective and will keep the roof deck from ever getting hot. On the other hand, I would not recommend installing in the attic if the foil was already under the roof.
I just moved into a home with a metal roof, and it’s probably a few years old (the roof). Is there a way I could check to see if they installed a radiant barrier when they installed the roof?
Probably not without lifting part and looking. Or, if you are in the attic and you put your hand a couple inches away from the wood deck and it FEELS really hot they probably did not install radiant barrier. In this case just install www.AtticFoil.com inside the attic for nearly the same benefit.
Great clip! With the batten style system (criss-cross of both) and having air flow from eave to ridge. Do you incorporate the ridge vent of the main house ( Rake edge to rake edge) or run the air space directly from onside of the each roof facet (slope). Or is that depending on inside insul. Type? Thanks, Troy ( Typical SSM installation with ridge vented perforated Z flashing connected @ ridge cap.)
It would depend if the attic is vented or not. I like this for full foam encapsulated attics with no vent. But it works well for traditional vented attics too.
I have a metal garage roof and it gets very cold in the winter and once the cold air hits the roof it drips all over the floor. Using glue, I have stuck some plastic wool loft insulation to the roof and was wondering if I can then add a layer of foil to reflect the heat in the summer? Would this work? I have already stuck the wool to the roof and would be a pain to remove. Thanks
I have one question. if you are installing a metal roof and the metal is white or aluminum color and you have a 2inch or so gap between the shingles and metal roof that's white or aluminum color why would you have to have the foil at all looks like to me you already have that thermal radiant barrier with just the white or aluminum color metal roof. I'm pretty sure the straight aluminum metal roof will be sufficient enough to stop the thermal heat of the sun from getting in. I see very clearly why the gap between metal roof and the shingled roof.. Seems it would just be extra money or needles money spent when white or aluminum metal and a 2inch gap is plenty without the roil of foil..
White or aluminum roofs are BETTER than dark roofs. However, it's STILL metal and will get hot. Would you rather sit on a CHROME bumper or a BLACK piece of foam sitting in the sun?? Same idea for metal roofing material.
That would be an amazing application! I've had a few customers do it, but don't have any pictures. If you do it, please contact me. I'll compensate you for some install pictures or video.
My understanding No4 is NOT correct BECAUSE battens will rot! The condensation will land on foil instead of membrane because you have battens horizontaly there is no where the condensate can escape other than batten!!!
In the building science world you learn that it’s OK for wood to get wet and then dry again. It can happen a thousand times like washing and drying a towel. It’s when it STAYS wet you have issues with rot, rust, mold, etc. In a typical roofing system, you may have some condensation but it will dry quickly due to the heat of the sun and ventilation.
Are you installing a new metal roof and have questions about how to incorporate a radiant barrier? Ask us! Comment below.
Thank you! I just watched about a dozen videos and this has been by far and away the most informative. No other videos even mentions the importance of an air gap!
I agree with your conclusion that method #4 provides maximum benefits. I wish you would promote this in your other videos. Installers use your videos as examples of correct ways to place radiant barriers.
Perhaps a digital thermometer readout on the attic side before insulation could highlight this point.
Really good to see all these methods for roof installation. Thanks!
Very informative and helpful.
Great explanation . . . Very professional . Thank you
Thank you but in the first place does the metal panel, or aluminum decking create a radiant heat barrier as well?
There are some metal roofing products that are considered "cool" "reflective" or low emissivity. However, just because something is shiny does not mean it will reflect heat. A chrome bumper of a car is very shiny, but I would not want to sit on one on a hot-sunny day.
Cool video 😎 Do you think you can use the foil without the membrane underneath.? I live in a hot climate with mild winters. Thanks.
Yes, In fact our new All In One Underlayment and Radiant Barrier is exactly the product you are looking for. It's Miami-Dade county approved which is the strictest certification for roofing products. www.roofingfoil.com/shop/single-sided-solid-foil-underlayment/ We can send you a sample or just call us for more info.
Very nice, but can the under battens and counter battens be attached to the roof with screws instead of nails in high velocity wind zones?
Screws are great in high wind areas!
Great videos!!!! What happens if you install the Roofing Foil on the underside of the Roof Rafters (in the attic) and as you hav specified in this video? Do you get double protection? The question arose because a client has already installed the Roofing Foil on the underside of the roof rafters and now we are re-doing their entire roof. Thanks!
Installing the foil under the roof will yield a better benefit than installing inside the attic. As a rule, the further to the outside the better. In your case, I would definitely install under the roof. It's cheap, effective and will keep the roof deck from ever getting hot. On the other hand, I would not recommend installing in the attic if the foil was already under the roof.
Would this work as a vapour barrier if installed inside on rafters under a metal roof?
If you used the solid product, taped the seams and made it airtight, you would have a vapor barrier.
what do you mean "tapered" the seams?? Overlap you mean?
Overlay product up/down. Do not have a seam left-right directly above another seam going left-right. So either tapered or offset is a better word.
I just moved into a home with a metal roof, and it’s probably a few years old (the roof). Is there a way I could check to see if they installed a radiant barrier when they installed the roof?
Probably not without lifting part and looking. Or, if you are in the attic and you put your hand a couple inches away from the wood deck and it FEELS really hot they probably did not install radiant barrier. In this case just install www.AtticFoil.com inside the attic for nearly the same benefit.
Great clip! With the batten style system (criss-cross of both) and having air flow from eave to ridge. Do you incorporate the ridge vent of the main house ( Rake edge to rake edge) or run the air space directly from onside of the each roof facet (slope). Or is that depending on inside insul. Type?
Thanks, Troy ( Typical SSM installation with ridge vented perforated Z flashing connected @ ridge cap.)
It would depend if the attic is vented or not. I like this for full foam encapsulated attics with no vent. But it works well for traditional vented attics too.
I have a metal garage roof and it gets very cold in the winter and once the cold air hits the roof it drips all over the floor. Using glue, I have stuck some plastic wool loft insulation to the roof and was wondering if I can then add a layer of foil to reflect the heat in the summer? Would this work? I have already stuck the wool to the roof and would be a pain to remove.
Thanks
For metal buildings we have a different group of products specifically designed to eliminate/reduce condensation issues. www.BlueTexInsulation.com
could u put plex tubing under the metal roof seeing how it generates heat to use it as a pre heating for a storage tank for hot water
Yes, this would be a great method to use the heat and get it into the pex tubing.
I have one question. if you are installing a metal roof and the metal is white or aluminum color and you have a 2inch or so gap between the shingles and metal roof that's white or aluminum color why would you have to have the foil at all looks like to me you already have that thermal radiant barrier with just the white or aluminum color metal roof. I'm pretty sure the straight aluminum metal roof will be sufficient enough to stop the thermal heat of the sun from getting in. I see very clearly why the gap between metal roof and the shingled roof.. Seems it would just be extra money or needles money spent when white or aluminum metal and a 2inch gap is plenty without the roil of foil..
White or aluminum roofs are BETTER than dark roofs. However, it's STILL metal and will get hot. Would you rather sit on a CHROME bumper or a BLACK piece of foam sitting in the sun?? Same idea for metal roofing material.
What is the minimum allowable airspace?
Generally, you want 1/2" or more.
Could u put plex tubing under a metal roof to heat water/per heat
That would be an amazing application! I've had a few customers do it, but don't have any pictures. If you do it, please contact me. I'll compensate you for some install pictures or video.
Did you install the pex for preheating water on your roof?
I am considering doing this.
@@faradthomas8309 Personally never have done this. However, I think it's a great idea and have had several customers do it with great success.
My understanding No4 is NOT correct BECAUSE battens will rot! The condensation will land on foil instead of membrane because you have battens horizontaly there is no where the condensate can escape other than batten!!!
In the building science world you learn that it’s OK for wood to get wet and then dry again. It can happen a thousand times like washing and drying a towel. It’s when it STAYS wet you have issues with rot, rust, mold, etc. In a typical roofing system, you may have some condensation but it will dry quickly due to the heat of the sun and ventilation.