@Matt Risinger Could we get an updated video on this subject, underlayment, air gap, etc? New techniques, products, and since you are always finding better ways to do things, what you prefer now a days. Thanks.
Great looking (and sounding) video, superb job. And as always, great information about the products and proper installation procedures. Thanks alot Matt!
I am an EcoBroker® or GREEN REALTOR® with REALTY TEXAS servicing the Central Texas and Austin Texas area. I have been following you for years! I get a lot of people from California that ask about metal roofs. Perhaps they are not used there much. I am not sure. I love our metal roofs in Central Texas. The exposed fastener type not so much but standing seam I absolutely love. BEST for rainwater homes too!
I've seen some roofs with the furring strips that have taken on moisture from after being installed over shingles. The condensation wicks through the wood and follows the fasteners through the roof. Homeowners usually don't have a clue its taking on moisture
Two issues: 1) A steel roof might FUNCTION for >50 years, assuming everything goes right (ha!) and it's vigilantly maintained, but it'll look like garbage long before. Even the best polymeric coatings will discolor/fade and begin delaminating after 30, thanks to relentless UV exposure and thermal cycling, and it'd be borderline miraculous for any touch-up/repainting to last more than 5. 2) While recycled steel is a more sustainable material than virgin steel, that's sort of like saying "warmer than Antarctica." The recycling process still consumes a lot of energy and generates quite a bit of CO2, even with electric furnaces. Still, steel is probably one of the best-performing and most sustainable residential roofing materials currently available, and that's an absolute travesty. With mass-customization, automation, distributed production/fabrication, and the use of fully mature yet grossly underutilized materials like foamed glass, thermoplastic composites, and continuous fiber-reinforced concrete, you could construct an earthquake/fire-resistant, hurricane/flood-proof house for half the price and half the time of traditional construction with a lifespan measured in centuries. Unfortunately, innovation-intolerant building code and investment-discouraging demand-fluctuation means we're all stuck with overpriced, maintenance-intensive, combustible, water-sensitive, failure-prone trash that falls apart whenever Mother Nature gets testy.
Great knowledge as always Matt! But I had to comment on the production quality of this video and the Net Zero one. They were both great and the auto quality was superb.
Mr Risinger, I'm in Lake Charles, La, where Hurricane Laura just hit, and I'm watching some of your older videos with my mother. She would like to have a metal roof installed atop of their shingled-roof, and would like to know if you think that's advisable, or should they strip the shingles and start from scratch? Thank you, Dee
Im not a professional builder, however I wouldn't go over the shingles with a metal roof. A few reasons why. 1) weight of all materials putting too much of a strain on framing and foundation 2) If you air gap like this video suggests, you'll have holes in the shingles from attaching metal roof components underneath which over time will create leaks because the shingles aren't self sealing 3) Do it right the first time!! Yes it may cost more up front but over time if you take cheaper short cuts you'll definitely pay more for those short cuts later
+1 Production level has increased greatly. Information is key though and that keeps me coming back. Thanks Matt. Also, liked the new "BUILD" logo. Send me a shirt. :)
Hello! I have a gazebo with a metal roof, and I want to put a wooden ceiling underneath. The problem is that in the morning condensation forms under the sheet metal. Will installing glass wool or styrofoam between the sheet metal roof and the wood ceiling fix the problem?
Nice video. However, I don't understand how this mesh solves the due/condensation problem. If the dew is forming on top of the metal, what stops it from forming underneath and dripping right through the mesh? I am currently having condensation issues with a non-heated, enclosed porch. It is low pitch roof and the installer screwed the standing seam directly to OSB with Ice and Water underlayment in-between. I am getting condensation in the later fall mornings and OSB is getting wet. The installer would like to remove metal, lay down 3/4" Iso board and re-install the metal. How would that work?
Matt, can you list out brand and model for the products you just referred to? Also, what pitch range is the 3D mesh good for? How do you seal the ends of the metal to the eaves to prevent insects from making nests given that the 3D mesh would create places for them to crawl up into? We're facing a problem with our house where a metal roof was installed over 30lb roofing felt on top of SIPs. The roofer left the SIPs exposed for most of the rainy season before completing the metal installation. So there's a lot of water trapped in the outer skin of the SIPs and now we're having to re-do the roof to find a way to let the roof deck/SIPs dry to the outside.
Matt, I was under the assumption that a standing metal seam (like shown) or snap loc concealed fastener roofing system must be installed over a solid flat deck and the the use of purlins was unacceptable. However, the use of Purlins in Corrugated metal exposed fastener type systems is acceptable. Do you guys typically install standing metal seam over purlins like that? Thanks,
all should be put over solid decking with heavy felt , 22 years experience here. lathing will rot , condensation is inevitable. seen “dry” rot even on open lathed trusses, dry rot is not dry , caused from condensation also .
? We are getting a metal roof and want to close off soffit and turbine and use closed cell insulation on 4/12 with old board deck. My engineer friend sent me this link to you cuz we talked about the estimate I have and he says another layer needs to be added if closing off ventilation. So what I’m understanding is we need the screen layer to keep metal panels from rusting. Am I getting it right?
If you use open cell spray foam insulation you are introducing moisture to the underside of the roof deck. If you use an ice and water underlayment that moisture cannot get thru the roof sheathing to be carried away thru ventilation. How are you then venting the roof to prevent degradation of the roof deck?
Hi. I've been watching some of your videos, and have a serious question for you. I have installed shingles, metal roofs quite few times, but recently, I've found myself in a dilemma. I recently bought a manufactured home, single-wide 16' x 80'. I replaced the original gutters with 5" k-style aluminum house gutters. Although it has no leaks, I want to do some preventative maintenance to insure against potential future leaks. This home has a slightly-pitched gable style, "loose roof" in that it is attached with staples at edges. My dilemma; should I use a 100% silicone roof coating such as Henry's, or metal roofing? I have a friend that is a professional roofer that suggests completely covering my entire roof with peel & stick, ice &water shield, then stripping (furring) it out, and installing the roofing metal. I'm very concerned about condensation using either method. The roof has no eaves therefore no soffits for vents. I'm concerned about my existing roof developing condensation problems, wetting my insulation, mold, mildew. Can I get you opinion on this please?
Matt, with us living in the technological age we are in, do you ever experience signal interruption for wireless devices? Cell signal, internet signal?
We plan to build a wood frame shed house with steel sheeting for roof cover. Can we spray foam the underside of the steel sheeting safely and correctly?
I'm about to try 1x4 spacers on the roof of my metal building after learning about this method from your videos, Matt. But my contractor is saying that screws driven into 1x material will back out over time and he wants to use 2x4's so there is more to bite into. Is there any truth to this, and/or ways to avoid this? Going with 2x4's seems like a clunky option.
Darin Weeks I've been doing this method for 10 years without any issues and I learned this from an Architect and Builder who's been using this system for 25+ years. I think the 1x4 are adequate.
Matt Risinger What type of fasteners are you using with your metal roofs? Are you fastening only to the 1x4 laths or deeper into another piece of wood? I just ran across this statement in one screw manufacturers specs that mirrors what my contractor was saying.... but at the same time this company's specs talk about going into 1x4's.... I'm just thinking they might be assuming there is wood behind the 1x4. "Fasteners installed in less than 1" of solid wood may have an increased potential for sealing or connection failure over time. This may be due to the fasteners being stripped out during installation and/or due to the lack of adequate wood fiber material to hold the fastener in place during thermal movement cycles or other forces which may be exerted upon the connection."
We (in our country) have built metal roofs since 1960s and usually it is fastened to 1x4 (22x100mm) battens with inch long (25mm) roofing screws and those won't come.
Matt, what gauge metal do you recommend for a metal roof. I'm in Colorado where we get seasonal hail and I just want to make sure we don't get a metal roof that's too thin and won't hold up under the weather. Thanks.
Matt DeFrees Typically we see metal roofs in 22-24-26 gauges. I use 24 gauge most often and it's pretty stout. If hail is your main concern go with 22 or 24 but you'll find less options in 22 guage as it's really thick/heavy and tough to work.
Im not a professional but when I built my little house as an ignorant 20 yr old (20yrs ago), I slapped #2 galvalume on tar paper. I'm building an addition and so far ive pulled 1/4 of the metal off and the paper & decking look like they did when I put them there. But im willing to learn from mistakes and do better. I do question how much of today's products are really better or just different to make $????
@@joshduncan7081 If you use tar paper you have to use a rosin paper slip sheet or the metal roofing will end up sticking to the tar paper. Best to use a high temp self adhering membrane underlayment. The self adhering asphaltic membrane is better as it is self healing for the fasteners.
@@buildshow Interesting. I'm getting ready to install a corrugated steel roof w/ exposed fasteners on my house. Menards says not to use purloins, because condensation can form under the metal. They say to install 1/4" fanfold styrofoam board over the old 3 tab shingles, then install the metal sheets. The shingles on southern slope of the roof are in bad shape. Numerous tabs have blown off. I asked if the missing tabs will cause the metal to be wavy. They said no. I'm still skeptical about that. I think it might be better to tear off the old roof first, even though I'd rather not do that extra work. Any thoughts?
Yet another great video by Matt Risinger! I'm sure this question has been asked (and answered). But just in case.... What about installing a metal roof over an asphalt roof that has a good 5 +years left to it (No curling or leaking yet)? What are your thoughts?
Don't air gaps create condensation? If the underside of the metal roof is not in contact with the humid air, no condensation will form. I think that is the purpose of that mesh, to limit the surface area. Also, why no radiant barrier if you are in a warm area?
No they don't. Differences in relative humidity vs temp create condensation. It is virtually impossible to stop on a metal roof, as complete temp/humidity sealing is impossible. The best option is to create an air gap where the inevitable condensation that does form has a chance to dry out once it warms.
our contractor put a steel roof on over our old shingle roof. they didnt use a vapor barrier, but they did use braces to give an air gap. did they do it ok?
That is common around my area randomrazr, so I assume it is acceptable as long as the roof system can support the weight. How do you know if it can? Well you rally don't unless you have an architect or engineer look at it. Myself being a residential contractor I believe that it is a "best practice" to remove the shingles however. I'd be interested to hear Matt's opinion on it.
I always want to know what's happening underneath so I would strip the roof back to the deck before putting on a new roof. It's common practice to see it left and it's certainly cheaper, but I would be concerned that a problem was being covered up. Matt
True but wouldn't a good inspection from inside give you enough information to know if you have a problem with an old shingle roof? At my mom's house when I look up at the roof from inside the attic I see water stains at almost every nail hole and larger stains here and there in different places. They are not enough to cause alarm (yet) but her house stands in STARK contrast to other homes I've inspected where the inside looking up is pristine (even on a house built in the late 70's.
The air gap created by the lathing will create condensation witch will run down and rot the said lathing. Always install metal roofing over a sold decked surface with heavy felt or straight over shingles when possible. I’ve been doing metal roofs for 20+ years and have seen it all . Done an addition in which the metal had been directly over shingles for about 15-20 years and when we pulled up the edge sheets to tie in the new , the bottom of the metal looked like the day it was put on. But i have also been on repair jobs of metal roofs that were only 5-10 years old where the lathing was all ready rotten. Stay away from lathing if you wanna get long term duration from a metal roof.
I am in the DFW area and my roof is standing seem Galvalume. My contract called for lead pipe collars but they were not used. Now my builder is telling me that you should NOT use lead with galvalume. Is that correct or should I make him fix it?
This is silly. The roof should have been installed tight to deck. There is no way that this dome shaped roof will vent and not form condensation that will ultimate fail the ice/water.
Please help me. My husband's family installed a metal roof. It is frigid at night and if I heat the house it has condensation. And leaks when it rains. Please send me written instructions on how to install the roof correctly.
metal roofs will not save you money. I live in a mountain area where there are a lot of metal roofs. we also have a lot of hail. every time we have a hail storm the metal roofs have to be replaced just as often as asphalt roofs at twice the cost because of cosmetic reasons. metal roofs dent easily with hail that will damage an asphalt roof. another problem is snow sliding off the roof and destroying the gutters every winter. from experience wouldn't put one on my house.
freethinker52 Matter and myself are in Texas. Snow is not a problem. And if you are replacing a metal roof after hail for cosmetic reasons, you are either rich or stupid.
@Matt Risinger Could we get an updated video on this subject, underlayment, air gap, etc? New techniques, products, and since you are always finding better ways to do things, what you prefer now a days. Thanks.
Great looking (and sounding) video, superb job. And as always, great information about the products and proper installation procedures. Thanks alot Matt!
You are on your game. Great sound, editing love the cuts from your narrative to product/detail you discuss. Great job.
First class-looking video and sound, Matt. Superb information, as usual!
I am an EcoBroker® or GREEN REALTOR® with REALTY TEXAS servicing the Central Texas and Austin Texas area. I have been following you for years! I get a lot of people from California that ask about metal roofs. Perhaps they are not used there much. I am not sure. I love our metal roofs in Central Texas. The exposed fastener type not so much but standing seam I absolutely love. BEST for rainwater homes too!
I've seen some roofs with the furring strips that have taken on moisture from after being installed over shingles. The condensation wicks through the wood and follows the fasteners through the roof. Homeowners usually don't have a clue its taking on moisture
Two issues:
1) A steel roof might FUNCTION for >50 years, assuming everything goes right (ha!) and it's vigilantly maintained, but it'll look like garbage long before. Even the best polymeric coatings will discolor/fade and begin delaminating after 30, thanks to relentless UV exposure and thermal cycling, and it'd be borderline miraculous for any touch-up/repainting to last more than 5.
2) While recycled steel is a more sustainable material than virgin steel, that's sort of like saying "warmer than Antarctica." The recycling process still consumes a lot of energy and generates quite a bit of CO2, even with electric furnaces.
Still, steel is probably one of the best-performing and most sustainable residential roofing materials currently available, and that's an absolute travesty. With mass-customization, automation, distributed production/fabrication, and the use of fully mature yet grossly underutilized materials like foamed glass, thermoplastic composites, and continuous fiber-reinforced concrete, you could construct an earthquake/fire-resistant, hurricane/flood-proof house for half the price and half the time of traditional construction with a lifespan measured in centuries. Unfortunately, innovation-intolerant building code and investment-discouraging demand-fluctuation means we're all stuck with overpriced, maintenance-intensive, combustible, water-sensitive, failure-prone trash that falls apart whenever Mother Nature gets testy.
Great knowledge as always Matt! But I had to comment on the production quality of this video and the Net Zero one. They were both great and the auto quality was superb.
I feel like allot of that underneath condensation gets evaporated before it can do any damage. Just like older homes, if it's breathing it's living!
Mr Risinger, I'm in Lake Charles, La, where Hurricane Laura just hit, and I'm watching some of your older videos with my mother. She would like to have a metal roof installed atop of their shingled-roof, and would like to know if you think that's advisable, or should they strip the shingles and start from scratch? Thank you, Dee
Im not a professional builder, however I wouldn't go over the shingles with a metal roof. A few reasons why. 1) weight of all materials putting too much of a strain on framing and foundation 2) If you air gap like this video suggests, you'll have holes in the shingles from attaching metal roof components underneath which over time will create leaks because the shingles aren't self sealing 3) Do it right the first time!! Yes it may cost more up front but over time if you take cheaper short cuts you'll definitely pay more for those short cuts later
Can't wait to start my steel roof! Gonna do the fur strips. Trying to decide if I should do the rigid foam...
In Florida, what underlayment would you recommend for an unvented 5/12 standing seam metal roof. Also, should the wood purlins be used?
i never knew this was a problem, do you have a video about the insulated roof panels people use to make flyover patios?
production quality looks like it went through the metaphorical roof! Nice drone shots :D
+1 Production level has increased greatly. Information is key though and that keeps me coming back. Thanks Matt. Also, liked the new "BUILD" logo. Send me a shirt. :)
Hello! I have a gazebo with a metal roof, and I want to put a wooden ceiling underneath. The problem is that in the morning condensation forms under the sheet metal. Will installing glass wool or styrofoam between the sheet metal roof and the wood ceiling fix the problem?
Nice video. However, I don't understand how this mesh solves the due/condensation problem. If the dew is forming on top of the metal, what stops it from forming underneath and dripping right through the mesh?
I am currently having condensation issues with a non-heated, enclosed porch. It is low pitch roof and the installer screwed the standing seam directly to OSB with Ice and Water underlayment in-between. I am getting condensation in the later fall mornings and OSB is getting wet. The installer would like to remove metal, lay down 3/4" Iso board and re-install the metal. How would that work?
Matt, can you list out brand and model for the products you just referred to?
Also, what pitch range is the 3D mesh good for?
How do you seal the ends of the metal to the eaves to prevent insects from making nests given that the 3D mesh would create places for them to crawl up into?
We're facing a problem with our house where a metal roof was installed over 30lb roofing felt on top of SIPs. The roofer left the SIPs exposed for most of the rainy season before completing the metal installation. So there's a lot of water trapped in the outer skin of the SIPs and now we're having to re-do the roof to find a way to let the roof deck/SIPs dry to the outside.
Did you have an answer?
Matt,
I was under the assumption that a standing metal seam (like shown) or snap loc concealed fastener roofing system must be installed over a solid flat deck and the the use of purlins was unacceptable. However, the use of Purlins in Corrugated metal exposed fastener type systems is acceptable.
Do you guys typically install standing metal seam over purlins like that?
Thanks,
I have this question also.
all should be put over solid decking with heavy felt , 22 years experience here. lathing will rot , condensation is inevitable. seen “dry” rot even on open lathed trusses, dry rot is not dry , caused from condensation also .
What's the pitch of that flat looking metal roof?
How did you frame the roof pitch?
A great video as always!
If you use the 1 by 4s on the horizontal, you get an air gap, but not an air flow?
? We are getting a metal roof and want to close off soffit and turbine and use closed cell insulation on 4/12 with old board deck. My engineer friend sent me this link to you cuz we talked about the estimate I have and he says another layer needs to be added if closing off ventilation. So what I’m understanding is we need the screen layer to keep metal panels from rusting. Am I getting it right?
If you use open cell spray foam insulation you are introducing moisture to the underside of the roof deck. If you use an ice and water underlayment that moisture cannot get thru the roof sheathing to be carried away thru ventilation. How are you then venting the roof to prevent degradation of the roof deck?
Hi. I've been watching some of your videos, and have a serious question for you. I have installed shingles, metal roofs quite few times, but recently, I've found myself in a dilemma. I recently bought a manufactured home, single-wide 16' x 80'. I replaced the original gutters with 5" k-style aluminum house gutters. Although it has no leaks, I want to do some preventative maintenance to insure against potential future leaks. This home has a slightly-pitched gable style, "loose roof" in that it is attached with staples at edges. My dilemma; should I use a 100% silicone roof coating such as Henry's, or metal roofing? I have a friend that is a professional roofer that suggests completely covering my entire roof with peel & stick, ice &water shield, then stripping (furring) it out, and installing the roofing metal. I'm very concerned about condensation using either method. The roof has no eaves therefore no soffits for vents. I'm concerned about my existing roof developing condensation problems, wetting my insulation, mold, mildew. Can I get you opinion on this please?
Matt, with us living in the technological age we are in, do you ever experience signal interruption for wireless devices? Cell signal, internet signal?
I've not had any issues
Great, thanks for the reply and the top notch practices.
On the build show...
We plan to build a wood frame shed house with steel sheeting for roof cover. Can we spray foam the underside of the steel sheeting safely and correctly?
Go check Spray Jones channel. Can almost guarantee you’ll get your questions answered there.
I'm about to try 1x4 spacers on the roof of my metal building after learning about this method from your videos, Matt. But my contractor is saying that screws driven into 1x material will back out over time and he wants to use 2x4's so there is more to bite into. Is there any truth to this, and/or ways to avoid this? Going with 2x4's seems like a clunky option.
Darin Weeks I've been doing this method for 10 years without any issues and I learned this from an Architect and Builder who's been using this system for 25+ years. I think the 1x4 are adequate.
Matt Risinger What type of fasteners are you using with your metal roofs? Are you fastening only to the 1x4 laths or deeper into another piece of wood? I just ran across this statement in one screw manufacturers specs that mirrors what my contractor was saying.... but at the same time this company's specs talk about going into 1x4's.... I'm just thinking they might be assuming there is wood behind the 1x4. "Fasteners installed in less than 1" of solid wood may have an increased potential for sealing or connection failure over time. This may be due to the fasteners being stripped out during installation and/or due to the lack of adequate wood fiber material to hold the fastener in place during thermal movement cycles or other forces which may be exerted upon the connection."
We (in our country) have built metal roofs since 1960s and usually it is fastened to 1x4 (22x100mm) battens with inch long (25mm) roofing screws and those won't come.
Isn't it important what you're screwing into under the roof? (rafters vs sheathing?)
Matt, what gauge metal do you recommend for a metal roof. I'm in Colorado where we get seasonal hail and I just want to make sure we don't get a metal roof that's too thin and won't hold up under the weather. Thanks.
Matt DeFrees Typically we see metal roofs in 22-24-26 gauges. I use 24 gauge most often and it's pretty stout. If hail is your main concern go with 22 or 24 but you'll find less options in 22 guage as it's really thick/heavy and tough to work.
concise and informative, thanks!
What about inside,i am building conservatory soon,im worried about condensation on ceiling
good tar paper is proven to last 50 years+ and work, there already been alot of problems with new barriers that havent worked out
Im not a professional but when I built my little house as an ignorant 20 yr old (20yrs ago), I slapped #2 galvalume on tar paper. I'm building an addition and so far ive pulled 1/4 of the metal off and the paper & decking look like they did when I put them there. But im willing to learn from mistakes and do better. I do question how much of today's products are really better or just different to make $????
@@joshduncan7081 If you use tar paper you have to use a rosin paper slip sheet or the metal roofing will end up sticking to the tar paper. Best to use a high temp self adhering membrane underlayment. The self adhering asphaltic membrane is better as it is self healing for the fasteners.
Matt< how about putting foam insulation sheets between your batton boards ? your opinion please .
+Robert Hoover not a good idea. You want the air flow
@@buildshow Interesting. I'm getting ready to install a corrugated steel roof w/ exposed fasteners on my house. Menards says not to use purloins, because condensation can form under the metal. They say to install 1/4" fanfold styrofoam board over the old 3 tab shingles, then install the metal sheets.
The shingles on southern slope of the roof are in bad shape. Numerous tabs have blown off. I asked if the missing tabs will cause the metal to be wavy. They said no. I'm still skeptical about that. I think it might be better to tear off the old roof first, even though I'd rather not do that extra work. Any thoughts?
So, just to be clear, this is a COMMERCIAL building and NOT a RESIDENCE. Is that correct?
Looks like a house to me
Yet another great video by Matt Risinger!
I'm sure this question has been asked (and answered). But just in case....
What about installing a metal roof over an asphalt roof that has a good 5 +years left to it (No curling or leaking yet)?
What are your thoughts?
Don't air gaps create condensation? If the underside of the metal roof is not in contact with the humid air, no condensation will form. I think that is the purpose of that mesh, to limit the surface area. Also, why no radiant barrier if you are in a warm area?
No they don't. Differences in relative humidity vs temp create condensation. It is virtually impossible to stop on a metal roof, as complete temp/humidity sealing is impossible. The best option is to create an air gap where the inevitable condensation that does form has a chance to dry out once it warms.
our contractor put a steel roof on over our old shingle roof. they didnt use a vapor barrier, but they did use braces to give an air gap. did they do it ok?
That is common around my area randomrazr, so I assume it is acceptable as long as the roof system can support the weight. How do you know if it can? Well you rally don't unless you have an architect or engineer look at it. Myself being a residential contractor I believe that it is a "best practice" to remove the shingles however. I'd be interested to hear Matt's opinion on it.
I always want to know what's happening underneath so I would strip the roof back to the deck before putting on a new roof. It's common practice to see it left and it's certainly cheaper, but I would be concerned that a problem was being covered up. Matt
True but wouldn't a good inspection from inside give you enough information to know if you have a problem with an old shingle roof?
At my mom's house when I look up at the roof from inside the attic I see water stains at almost every nail hole and larger stains here and there in different places. They are not enough to cause alarm (yet) but her house stands in STARK contrast to other homes I've inspected where the inside looking up is pristine (even on a house built in the late 70's.
The air gap created by the lathing will create condensation witch will run down and rot the said lathing. Always install metal roofing over a sold decked surface with heavy felt or straight over shingles when possible. I’ve been doing metal roofs for 20+ years and have seen it all . Done an addition in which the metal had been directly over shingles for about 15-20 years and when we pulled up the edge sheets to tie in the new , the bottom of the metal looked like the day it was put on. But i have also been on repair jobs of metal roofs that were only 5-10 years old where the lathing was all ready rotten. Stay away from lathing if you wanna get long term duration from a metal roof.
Matt, what mesh underlayment would you recommend today? We are already dried in with StormGuard but would like to add ventilation. Suggestions?
I guess he didn't feel the need to respond to you. I hope you found a solution in time.
Recently had open cell sprayed directly on metal interior attic now I'm seeing leaks where it lifted metal and screws are leaking.Help....
I am in the DFW area and my roof is standing seem Galvalume. My contract called for lead pipe collars but they were not used. Now my builder is telling me that you should NOT use lead with galvalume. Is that correct or should I make him fix it?
Jeff, That's correct. The Lead will react with the Galvalume and streak your roof. Matt
Matt Risinger
Thanks
Can u insulation the out side of the roof underneath the metal roof
@Matt Risinger does that in other videos
This is silly. The roof should have been installed tight to deck. There is no way that this dome shaped roof will vent and not form condensation that will ultimate fail the ice/water.
Please help me. My husband's family installed a metal roof. It is frigid at night and if I heat the house it has condensation. And leaks when it rains. Please send me written instructions on how to install the roof correctly.
Not as long as clay or slate
clay & slate rely on underlayment.
316L stainless roofing will last over 1000 years.
so yes, much longer than clay or slate, chump.
metal roofs will not save you money. I live in a mountain area where there are a lot of metal roofs. we also have a lot of hail. every time we have a hail storm the metal roofs have to be replaced just as often as asphalt roofs at twice the cost because of cosmetic reasons. metal roofs dent easily with hail that will damage an asphalt roof. another problem is snow sliding off the roof and destroying the gutters every winter. from experience wouldn't put one on my house.
freethinker52 Matter and myself are in Texas. Snow is not a problem. And if you are replacing a metal roof after hail for cosmetic reasons, you are either rich or stupid.
freethinker52
load of crock.
Hurricane Metal Roofing what is a good idea for a "cheap" condensation barrier for a picnic shelter 16x30. 12 in overhang all sides, 4:12 pitch?
in his area, people are installing aluminum foil from the dollar store...over 5' spaced purlins
Justin Crediblename 🤣 nice