You're a brave man trying to explain how to cut threads! I wouldn't worry what Stefan thinks about your technique, he achieves the perfection most of us can't even dream about! Do your threads work? Yes! Good enough then!
I've single point cut/turned V, Acme and square threads, quite a few double and one triple lead Acme, and a double lead square, when it came to cutting a metric thread, the boss called it in for threaded rod LOL. Matter of fact I still have the first single and double lead Acme thread I cut my first year(Junior year in HS) in Vocational machine shop class(3hrs a day) had to hand sharpen the High Speed tool bits which was a pain because the wheels on the grinder weren't even close to being flat/square, after 35+ years in the trade I can hand sharpen drill bits with ease, as long as my eyesight holds up LOL. WOW! I also still have the V-Block all Juniors made as a project too, I remember the time it took to make it, probably a month, all hand layout and hand center punching a bunch of holes and now I have no doubt I could make the V-Block and clamp in around 6 hours on a bridgeport, we weren't allowed to use the Bridgeport in class, teacher was a hard a** had to use a horizontal mill and drill all holes on a drill press.
Hi Rusty, A good Rule of thumb with the outer diameter is when you take the nominal diameter, in your example 10mm, and subtract 10 procent of the thread pitch you want to cut, in this case 1,5mm*0,1=0.15. So your start diameter to cut the M10 thread would be round about 9,85mm. That works very well! Greethings from Germany and always looking forward to your videos, Andi
There's always the right way and the "Rusty Way". Enjoyed the video and jealous of a lathe that cuts Metric AND Imperial threads (and TWO more types) without change gears.
Teach away sir. Always happy to learn new an interesting ways to cut metric or imperial threads. I'm getting ready to purchase my first lathe, and I'm going to need to learn all this stuff.
Michel, a quick and not so dirty way to square up your threading tool ( or any other) I always use either the slightly loose tool holder and bring it right up to the face of the chuck between the jaws, if there is not enough room then I use a 123 block between the face of the chuck and the tool holder, once I have them held together by the carriage hand wheel I then just tighten up the tool holder nut and there you go a perfectly aligned tool!
great explanation for all beginners to this subject Michel theres always more than one way to do any job, this way works well take care👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 Kev
Good explanation Michel. I talked about threading in one of my videos and I referenced the videos Mark from Winkys workshop made. He did a good job in those videos.
I also watched the Winky's Workshop video, it was great. This is also an excellent tutorial contribution. I really appreciate that you often take a practical approach machining work. You demonstrate an easy to understand way to get excellent results that won't scare off a beginner like me. I love the videos that show textbook, "perfect" processes - but I think you inspire confidence to just jump in and try. Doing a task is always better for learning and you make the job seem achievable. Really appreciate you stepping through the machine controls and settings! Sometimes that get left out and it is helpful to see all the steps.
Nice explanation. I rarely run my lathe in reverse as I have a threaded spindle. But once I get the other lathe up and running, I will be able to use 5C collets which will make that possible for small items.
Three other tips that I use: you can set the side of the threading tool against the face of the chuck to ensure it is 90 degrees to the work, for small dia. For small diameter threads fine pitch you do not need to set the top slide at 30 instead plunge in at 90 for me this is OK to M20. Finally if you have die it can be used to finish the thread to get the nice radii on the crests and the roots. Well done Michel.
Just leave the top slide at 90° to the cross slide and feed it at 1/2 the rate you feed in, effectively does the same thing but you do have to remember where you were after each cut on the cross slide dial.
I bought some change gears for the Myford Imperial lathe to cut Metric. So far I have cut neither. Too lazy with the Taps & dies. Great instructional video. Steve.
If at the end of the exercise, regardless of how you get there, it works; How can you complain or take complaints? I cheat cutting threads in a some what similar manner. My only complaint of my method, a lot of thread chatter - I don't care. It's for me. Good onya Marcel. Keep at it
Great, enjoyable video. I've never got down to cutting threads on my lathe but it has always seemed a consideration that turning the top slide to say 29 degrees might be a good idea to make sure that both sides of the tool cut and avoid any possibility of slight steps on one flank of the thread caused by a minor inaccuracy. One side of the tool would still do 95% of the work but the other side would take a light skim. Also keeping the half nut engaged is a safe way to go but I thought you could disengage it if you re engaged it on the same number on the dial? I am being an armchair engineer here. Just thinking out loud.
Did you see my carriage stop video? works similar to your line. sets cross slide zero absolute. has room to back off to reverse, and then you roll to a hard stop, add your cut depth on the compound.
Metric users can switch to imperial numbers just like we can switch to metric by doubling everything. For example: 10kg is 20lbs and 5k is 10 miles. That's why 12 hours is 24 hours in Europe. They use smaller hours there. So instead of 60 minutes in an hour, they have 30 minutes.
I don’t have a compound for my little mini lathe in order to set the angle correctly to reduce the amount of tool pressure when cutting threads, so for now, I only use dies for cutting threads on my mini lathe. I also only have an unconventional power feed and I would need to determine what the speed of the spindle would need to be as well as the speed of the power feed of the lead screw in order to cut a thread. I was originally going to install a programmable electronic lead screw but I use a servo to turn the spindle and I couldn’t figure out how to control the spindle speed and position of the lead screw in order to control the speed of the lead screw to cut a proper thread, that’s clear as mud. Basically, It became far too technical for me so I decided to just convert my mini lathe to CNC and then I could program the position of the carriage and the cross slide and just need to design the thread in my design software create gcode and just go for it. Now, if that’s not just convoluted I don’t what is. 😅
Hallo rustinox , how much does a second hand mondiale celtic 14 cost these days ? i have worked with them in school when i did metal working in kito vilvoorde 👍
Hi On a side not lathe running slow sounded just like mine until I changed the motor for a 3ph 1, I found out the bearing in the old motor where causing the noise. Dry worn out bearings Steve
As always, an entertaining and educating video. Time 13:00. I use a 1:2:3 block between the tool post and the chuck. Any rectangular block having 2 parallell sides can be used, but You know that.. How would You thread a 2 inch long, left hand M6 .5?
Hi Dcraft1234 most lathes' gearboxes have the pre select gear arrangemnt and in turn gearselection to achieve the right combination(for threadpitch). The carriage is drawn to the workpiece by the leadscrew which is engaged/disengaged to start/ stop the thread cutting respectively. Without the half(2 halves actually)the threadcutting would not be possible due to its connection of leadscrew to threadcutting gears in thread gearbox. Hope this helps to understand
Here to ask this as well, because I am confused. My understanding (as a user of lathes made for the north american market) is that we here in NA keep the halfnut engaged when cutting Metric threads because the thread dial cannot be relied upon in this situation, but my expectation is that a metric lathe would have the opposite problem: halfnut engagement would need to be maintained when cutting imperial.
If you use the index to reset like an imperial thread you will get a multi-lead effect because of the odd ratio between metric and imperial .(1"=25.4 mm, 1mm =.03937") and a gear ratio of 127:5 is needed somewhere in the lead screw gear train)
@@StripeyType Sorry, I was referring to my own experience with cutting metric threads on my imperial lathe. Sorry if I confused you. But I have never used an all metric drive train as yet.
Thanks for another enjoyable (and educational) half hour! Matt 👍
Welcome.
Hi Michel. Thank you for such an interesting and engaging explanation as to how you cut metric threads on your lathe. 👏👏👍😀
Welcome.
You're a brave man trying to explain how to cut threads! I wouldn't worry what Stefan thinks about your technique, he achieves the perfection most of us can't even dream about! Do your threads work? Yes! Good enough then!
You're right. If it works, it works.
I wonder how many people genuinely appreciate the genius they just witnessed.
If it made them smile, it's a win.
Stephan's not bad, Joe's pretty good, but you, you are always awesome!
Roger from Calgary.
Thanks Roger.
If you don't have all the fancy tools there are ways Rusty knows to make it work.
Just go for it.
Ouch, shots fired across the ways from Stephan's workshop 😂
Awesome job as always there Sir.
Thanks.
I've single point cut/turned V, Acme and square threads, quite a few double and one triple lead Acme, and a double lead square, when it came to cutting a metric thread, the boss called it in for threaded rod LOL. Matter of fact I still have the first single and double lead Acme thread I cut my first year(Junior year in HS) in Vocational machine shop class(3hrs a day) had to hand sharpen the High Speed tool bits which was a pain because the wheels on the grinder weren't even close to being flat/square, after 35+ years in the trade I can hand sharpen drill bits with ease, as long as my eyesight holds up LOL. WOW! I also still have the V-Block all Juniors made as a project too, I remember the time it took to make it, probably a month, all hand layout and hand center punching a bunch of holes and now I have no doubt I could make the V-Block and clamp in around 6 hours on a bridgeport, we weren't allowed to use the Bridgeport in class, teacher was a hard a** had to use a horizontal mill and drill all holes on a drill press.
What a story :)
Very well explained and easy to understand. You did a great job Michel. Thanks for sharing your method. Regards Nobby
My pleasure.
Great video - a nice practical approach to making threads for a specific purpose in the home shop. 👍👍
Simple and effective.
Great video. Educational videos like this are timeless, this will be watched for years to come. 👍
Thanks Olly.
VERY cool! Thanks
My pleasure, Mark.
Hi Rusty,
A good Rule of thumb with the outer diameter is when you take the nominal diameter, in your example 10mm, and subtract 10 procent of the thread pitch you want to cut, in this case 1,5mm*0,1=0.15. So your start diameter to cut the M10 thread would be round about 9,85mm. That works very well!
Greethings from Germany and always looking forward to your videos,
Andi
That's a very useful tip. Thanks.
There's always the right way and the "Rusty Way". Enjoyed the video and jealous of a lathe that cuts Metric AND Imperial threads (and TWO more types) without change gears.
Thanks. It's indeed a very nice machine.
Perfecto! I have now cut my first m10 treads succsefully and with a nice fit for first time👏👏
Your humor is great. . really enjoy watching.
Thanks.
I like your pleasant delivery. That was a good video with good explanations. Thank you.
Thanks.
Teach away sir. Always happy to learn new an interesting ways to cut metric or imperial threads. I'm getting ready to purchase my first lathe, and I'm going to need to learn all this stuff.
That's great news. Go for it.
Michel, a quick and not so dirty way to square up your threading tool ( or any other) I always use either the slightly loose tool holder and bring it right up to the face of the chuck between the jaws, if there is not enough room then I use a 123 block between the face of the chuck and the tool holder, once I have them held together by the carriage hand wheel I then just tighten up the tool holder nut and there you go a perfectly aligned tool!
That only works if the angle between the shank and the cutting edge is 30° With hand made tools it's not always correct.
G'day Rusty. Very well executed tuition on thread cutting as well as setting up the ratio's for your speeds.
Thanks.
i always enjoy your videos,
Nice, thanks.
Very nice work sir. It is still a challenge for me. You guys make it look easy
Just spend some time making useles threads as an excercise, and you quickly will get used to it.
great explanation for all beginners to this subject Michel
theres always more than one way to do any job, this way works well
take care👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Kev
Thanks Kev.
Good explanation Michel. I talked about threading in one of my videos and I referenced the videos Mark from Winkys workshop made. He did a good job in those videos.
You're right. Mark's video is really worth watching.
I enjoy your teaching methods.
Thanks.
I also watched the Winky's Workshop video, it was great. This is also an excellent tutorial contribution. I really appreciate that you often take a practical approach machining work. You demonstrate an easy to understand way to get excellent results that won't scare off a beginner like me. I love the videos that show textbook, "perfect" processes - but I think you inspire confidence to just jump in and try. Doing a task is always better for learning and you make the job seem achievable.
Really appreciate you stepping through the machine controls and settings! Sometimes that get left out and it is helpful to see all the steps.
Just go for it. And if it fails, go for it again.
Great video,Michel.Thank you.
Thanks.
Nice explanation. I rarely run my lathe in reverse as I have a threaded spindle. But once I get the other lathe up and running, I will be able to use 5C collets which will make that possible for small items.
I forgot to mention the problem with threaded on chucks... oops.
Excellent video Michele. See you online next week, Lord willing!
Thanks.
Three other tips that I use: you can set the side of the threading tool against the face of the chuck to ensure it is 90 degrees to the work, for small dia. For small diameter threads fine pitch you do not need to set the top slide at 30 instead plunge in at 90 for me this is OK to M20. Finally if you have die it can be used to finish the thread to get the nice radii on the crests and the roots. Well done Michel.
Aligning the tool against the chuck doesn't work if the angle between the shank and the cutting edge isn't exactly 30°.
Just leave the top slide at 90° to the cross slide and feed it at 1/2 the rate you feed in, effectively does the same thing but you do have to remember where you were after each cut on the cross slide dial.
Enjoy dthe video very much Michel, cheers!
Thanks.
Well explained and presented. 👍
Thanks.
I bought some change gears for the Myford Imperial lathe to cut Metric. So far I have cut neither. Too lazy with the Taps & dies. Great instructional video.
Steve.
One day maybe...
👍 enjoyed. Cheers
Thanks Paul.
Great job, Rusti. Lots of little subtleties and nuances here. Screwcutting is one of the things I still have to practice on.
Go for it, Mart.
If at the end of the exercise, regardless of how you get there, it works; How can you complain or take complaints? I cheat cutting threads in a some what similar manner. My only complaint of my method, a lot of thread chatter - I don't care. It's for me. Good onya Marcel. Keep at it
If it works, it works.
Great, enjoyable video. I've never got down to cutting threads on my lathe but it has always seemed a consideration that turning the top slide to say 29 degrees might be a good idea to make sure that both sides of the tool cut and avoid any possibility of slight steps on one flank of the thread caused by a minor inaccuracy. One side of the tool would still do 95% of the work but the other side would take a light skim. Also keeping the half nut engaged is a safe way to go but I thought you could disengage it if you re engaged it on the same number on the dial? I am being an armchair engineer here. Just thinking out loud.
On most metric lathes there is no thread dial, so that's not an option.
Good viewing Rustinox. Cheers Tony
Thanks Tony.
👍😎
Thanks.
Did you see my carriage stop video? works similar to your line. sets cross slide zero absolute. has room to back off to reverse, and then you roll to a hard stop, add your cut depth on the compound.
Not yet but I will.
@@Rustinox most useful for repeating useage, like 10 bolts etc. tapers,
Metric users can switch to imperial numbers just like we can switch to metric by doubling everything. For example: 10kg is 20lbs and 5k is 10 miles.
That's why 12 hours is 24 hours in Europe. They use smaller hours there. So instead of 60 minutes in an hour, they have 30 minutes.
So, that's why I get old so quickly :)
I don’t have a compound for my little mini lathe in order to set the angle correctly to reduce the amount of tool pressure when cutting threads, so for now, I only use dies for cutting threads on my mini lathe. I also only have an unconventional power feed and I would need to determine what the speed of the spindle would need to be as well as the speed of the power feed of the lead screw in order to cut a thread. I was originally going to install a programmable electronic lead screw but I use a servo to turn the spindle and I couldn’t figure out how to control the spindle speed and position of the lead screw in order to control the speed of the lead screw to cut a proper thread, that’s clear as mud. Basically, It became far too technical for me so I decided to just convert my mini lathe to CNC and then I could program the position of the carriage and the cross slide and just need to design the thread in my design software create gcode and just go for it. Now, if that’s not just convoluted I don’t what is. 😅
Well, to keep it simple you can... eh...
Hallo rustinox , how much does a second hand mondiale celtic 14 cost these days ? i have worked with them in school when i did metal working in kito vilvoorde 👍
Depending of in what state they are, more or less 3000€.
I love your channel is there a easy way to convert inches to MM
Thanks. There are charts for that. Just google it.
Multiply by 25.4
Hi On a side not lathe running slow sounded just like mine until I changed the motor for a 3ph 1, I found out the bearing in the old motor where causing the noise. Dry worn out bearings
Steve
Good thing you fixed it.
When you said you were setting the compound to 60 degrees, you really meant 30 degrees, or a bit less, correct?
60° to the bed of the lathe.
As always, an entertaining and educating video.
Time 13:00. I use a 1:2:3 block between the tool post and the chuck. Any rectangular block having 2 parallell sides can be used, but You know that..
How would You thread a 2 inch long, left hand M6 .5?
The 123 block only works if the cutting tool is made at exactly 30° from the shank.
@@Rustinox Correct.
Why does the halfnut need to be kept engaged on a metric machine cutting metric threads?
Hi Dcraft1234 most lathes' gearboxes have the pre select gear arrangemnt and in turn gearselection to achieve the right combination(for threadpitch). The carriage is drawn to the workpiece by the leadscrew which is engaged/disengaged to start/ stop the thread cutting respectively. Without the half(2 halves actually)the threadcutting would not be possible due to its connection of leadscrew to threadcutting gears in thread gearbox. Hope this helps to understand
Here to ask this as well, because I am confused. My understanding (as a user of lathes made for the north american market) is that we here in NA keep the halfnut engaged when cutting Metric threads because the thread dial cannot be relied upon in this situation, but my expectation is that a metric lathe would have the opposite problem: halfnut engagement would need to be maintained when cutting imperial.
If you use the index to reset like an imperial thread you will get a multi-lead effect because of the odd ratio between metric and imperial .(1"=25.4 mm, 1mm =.03937") and a gear ratio of 127:5 is needed somewhere in the lead screw gear train)
@@howder1951 but why is that true *on an all metric lathe?*
@@StripeyType Sorry, I was referring to my own experience with cutting metric threads on my imperial lathe. Sorry if I confused you. But I have never used an all metric drive train as yet.