For anyone with a similar issue it’s worth checking the capacitor as well. I spent a couple hours fiddling with mine and finally thought to verify the proper mfd from the capacitor and discovered it was bad. Swapped it with a spare and it solved the issue. My symptoms were similar to the videos but it would hum and if I manually spun the drum with would start agitating very slowly.
Thank you Thank you Thank you for taking the time to mention the piece that goes thru the hoop. The peg was not going thru the hoop on our machine and I don't think it ever did. I am embarrassed to say that we have had our Maytag washer for a little over a year and our agitator has never worked. My husband did the wash and the clothes were just not getting clean like they should. I went back to an agitator because I had bought a machine without one and really missed it. Anyway, I am a 63 year old woman that was determined to fix my washer and even though I have watched several, yours was the one that helped me fix mine for FREE! Great job on video and keep making them!
Thanks for the vid. 💯%. Final spin, clothes were still pretty wet. Would have to set it to drain/spin manually.. $30 and 30 minutes. Problem solved . Old actuator could not sense cycle .
Josh, I just wanted to say thanks. The video was long and 'live action' was captured reflecting how it really is while attempting to figure out what's going on. Really appreciate your thoroughness. Thanks a lot for helping me resolve my issue.
Great Job and Very informational thanks for covering all way through even as you are dosing off waiting for next step but great job and clarity thanks for the add Sir !!
Excellent video showing the good and bad. I have the F7E5 code and a screech before it stopped being able to both agitate and spin. Pulled the belt off and the spun the drum. Maybe a little sound from the bearings, but I am most concerned that the pully has about a 5 degree rotational amount of play. Is that typical? Just replaced the springs, and hate to replace one part at a time only to find it may be the motor. Any advice is appreciated
I sent mine to a recycle place and bought a secondhand Whirlpool washer and dryer. The washer is a manual operation machine, with knobs, lots of choices, basically does what I want it to. Can fill it to meet my needs. The lid doesn't lock, but when you open it, washing will stop, then resume when the lid is closed. Large capacity, cleans well, easy to add bleach or other. AND, for both W&D, I paid $200.00 I'm stoked. Will never purchase an AMANA again.
Hey Josh, I have one of these washers and it continues to run the drain cycle without shutting off. There have been loads where it hasn't finished the drain cycle, leaving water in it. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks so much, Ben
Try holding your power button down for 20 seconds to reset the board. Then make sure your drain hose is elevated past the midway point on the washer before it goes into its drain hose location. Just make sure it's not going to a floor drain and you have elevation on the drain hose.
Great video bud I love that u didn't edit and it's like real life like u said. Thanks for the tip with the screeching sound to not think bearings instantly may be loose belt or Motor cause bearings suck changing out lol! Appreciate the video. Now I know how to calibrate and do error codes u have alot of info in here and it's great
Mine is having similar issue only there is a clicking sound when the agitator tries to move and it doesn’t move and than gets stuck on rinse . my machine keeps getting stuck on rinse and I thought it was rinse issue but the issue starts with the agitator no longer working if you see this thank you for your help .
My washer is filling up but doesn't wash. But the rinse and spin cycle works also the drain and spin cycle works. Could mine have the same problem and if yes how much does the part cost
That would be my guess, sounds like it's not switching over to agitate. I would check Amazon or partsdr.com after researching your model number for the price.
Great Video Josh! IT helps me understand a-lot, and knowing where the Service Manual is ... WONDERFUL! Whirlpool WTW4816FW2 1.) Automatic Test Mode: No Codes 2.) When agitating there is a loud grinding sound (sounds like 22:32 in video when the gears are trying to engage) this sound continues as long as the agitator is going in one direction, once it reverses direction it sounds normal. 3.) I haven the "calibration mode" a number of times thinking the splutch motor needs to zero in ... no change 4.) do you think that the symptoms add up to a "shift actuator"?
I have a amana I purchased it from Lowes last year. The very first time I used it it had issues, but lowes refused to take it back. It started freezing up on the final spin and would not unlock until you reset it but it had to run another cycle. Now almost a year later it just rinsing. Any suggestions besides a trip to the scrap yard.
Sounds like it’s throwing a code. That will cause the lid lock to flash at the end of the cycle and I’ve seen them stay locked until you unplug and plug back in. The service manual is located inside the housing, top left if looking at the machine from the front. You can reach you hand in between the tub and top and pull it out of the bag it’s in stuck to the front housing. It’ll walk you through checking for error codes, and tons of videos on how to do it.
I appreciate learning where to find the Service Technician's paper. The one I found in my model NTW4516FW3 is more abbreviated than the one you show. This model looks very similar to your model in the video, except it has the Auto-Fill feature. The problem that I have is that it will fail to operate correctly in Regular Mode only. In Heavy and Casual, and I assume the other modes, it works fine. In Regular Mode it barely agitates and there is a continuous clicking sound. It also adds more water at intervals and then does the lame agitation and clicking again. The code seems to be the same as you found. F7E5 - I think. When I went thru the sequence and pushed start, all greens blinked in a double pattern. But when I switched the dial up to the top, I got the F7E5. My paper just says "shifter fault", which would mean nothing to me if not for your information. So I thank you for this help. Hate to just throw parts at a problem without really knowing, but in this case I might gamble the $40. I could call a professional, but where's the fun in that?
Hello. I am still troubleshooting my Amana. It is agitating on the “fill sensing” mode. I have went thru several diagnostic tests, but no error codes are showing up. I replaced the water level switch, but still no luck. Do you have any idea what I should do at this point? 😭😔
It should be spinning lightly while filling. I had this issue a couple weeks ago and had to try another shifter. That did it for me. One shifter was bad out of the box. Be sure to calibrate after the new shifter goes on.
hi...im tryin to save some time and money myself. I read a bunch online about my kenmore 110 series washer and everyone said the lid lock switch will stop my washer from moving into the wash and spin mode. New switch didnt fix it. ...it still makes a very slight noise like its trying to start or move but it wont. like a humm sorta. not a squeal or grind. I took the shit motor out and cleaned the sensors, that didnt fix it either. i can turn the motor pulley and belt by hand with no issue. I get the shift actuator code in the diag mode. In the manual mode it will dump water and pump water...but will not agitate or spin. I ordered a shifter...but if that doesnt do it....i have no idea waht it could be. any help? thanks
I have a similar issue I think. I broke my lid lock by ripping open the door impatiently. Breaking a small plastic piece. It was currently slowing down after hitting pause cycle and spinning. Would ripping it open at that time mess the shifter up?
Sorry for the late reply. Yes it sounds like you broke the lid switch and you can’t Hotwire these new machines. If the machine doesn’t detect the lid being opened after 2 or 3 loads it throws a code and shuts down. I’d buy a new lid lock on Amazon and switch to decaf bro. Good luck! 👍🏻
my amana fills but then drains and never moves to the wash cycle. the wash light comes on after draining and then nothing. the drain/spin cycle works and i checked the individual modes and they all worked. would the shift actuator be the reason it doesn’t move in to the wash cycle?
Yes, but it could also be that it’s taking too long to fill up with water. If you disconnect the hoses on the back of your machine and make sure to clean out all the gunk that builds up in there that might help. Just be sure to turn your water off first lol.
It is not always the actuator. I replaced my actuator no change. Then I tested the actuator with a test cord and it shifted okay. I am waiting for a used control board.
@@joshcobb4100 Yes I recalibtate after every parts replacement. When I was checking the washer I watched the acuator it would slightly move. The new acuator had the same movement but would not shift. Hooking power directly to the acuator it shifted fine.
Sounds like you know what you are doing. Did you by chance check all the wire connections? Definitely sounds like it's not getting enough power and definitely could be a bad board, but the owner's manual does say to check all the connections first. FYI. You can also reset the board itself by unplugging the machine and holding the power button in for 20 seconds.... Might be worth a shot.
Yes I checked the wiring and reset the board. I did open up the control panel and found dead bugs stuck to the board. Right on the main power connector circut. I wonder if the bugs shorted out the board.
I have a question? After replacing the actuator it spins now but it flashes the spin light after couple spins. What do you recommend? Do you have an email to contact you directly?
And it ran through all the cycle but it has five lights starting from the first one all the way to the 5th complete cycle complete and it stopped there
14:43 have Ben noticing the same thing for decades now. Washers built in 70-80s were by no means made to save power or water by they got job done, even in 90s but closer got to 2000s things changed. Than in todays world, OEM, OE, 3rd party can all be made at same factory and w/ same materials; just have different labels and numbers. And yes, I’ll buy big bulk order of thermal fuses and out of the 200 I get, 50 can be bad; and so on for other sorts for really any appliance and computers/devices etc these days….
I had the same problem. The Tach test was ok and voltages on the actuator was ok. I took the splutch/Clutch apart and applied a light grease on the splines of the shaft. The actuator operates a circular lever above the clutch which has like three steps or four which engage and disengage the clutch, I applied a thin film of grease it makes it easier for the actuator to function...problem solved. Tip, don't use powered soap it corrodes the lid switch, heavy loads shortens the life of the suspension rods...poor design.
Also another tip in between the motor shaft and the transmission there is a coupler and the plastic pieces snap all the time over time from wear n tear I've changed those out alot myself. This is when a customer complains of a screeching or grinding sound
Great video. A little long, but well worth it for the details,. It's important to know that this actuator is more than a shift mechanism, they(amana) call that sensor, coupled with the actuator a tach or tachy, and it is capable of wreaking havoc on these machines, especiallyif you're not aware of it. The best I've seen on this particular shift actuator issue.
This fixed my issue. Found the part at a local store and replaced it based on your video and now we're back to clean clothes!
Yay!!
@@joshcobb4100 I spent $58 on a door switch wish I found this video first
YES!!! This video helped me out hell of a lot lol and saved me $700 I appreciate you my guy thanks
Hell yeah!
For anyone with a similar issue it’s worth checking the capacitor as well. I spent a couple hours fiddling with mine and finally thought to verify the proper mfd from the capacitor and discovered it was bad. Swapped it with a spare and it solved the issue.
My symptoms were similar to the videos but it would hum and if I manually spun the drum with would start agitating very slowly.
Great tip!!
Thank you Thank you Thank you for taking the time to mention the piece that goes thru the hoop. The peg was not going thru the hoop on our machine and I don't think it ever did. I am embarrassed to say that we have had our Maytag washer for a little over a year and our agitator has never worked. My husband did the wash and the clothes were just not getting clean like they should. I went back to an agitator because I had bought a machine without one and really missed it.
Anyway, I am a 63 year old woman that was determined to fix my washer and even though I have watched several, yours was the one that helped me fix mine for FREE!
Great job on video and keep making them!
Thanks!!
Thanks! My Amana agitator stopped working - followed your video & now it works 👍
You have given great insight into my vintage Amana. Thank you again.
Thanks Josh! Put a few more years on my Amanda. Also got that same part for only $26 on Amazon.
Thanks for the vid. 💯%. Final spin, clothes were still pretty wet. Would have to set it to drain/spin manually.. $30 and 30 minutes. Problem solved . Old actuator could not sense cycle .
Glad to help!!
Josh, I just wanted to say thanks. The video was long and 'live action' was captured reflecting how it really is while attempting to figure out what's going on. Really appreciate your thoroughness. Thanks a lot for helping me resolve my issue.
Thanks you just help me fix what I tried to figure out for hours . Thank you so much .
You're welcome!
Great Job and Very informational thanks for covering all way through even as you are dosing off waiting for next step but great job and clarity thanks for the add Sir !!
In order to get the book out do you have to open the entire lid or just the door
Great video. Including mistakes builds confidence in everyone.
Excellent video showing the good and bad. I have the F7E5 code and a screech before it stopped being able to both agitate and spin. Pulled the belt off and the spun the drum. Maybe a little sound from the bearings, but I am most concerned that the pully has about a 5 degree rotational amount of play. Is that typical? Just replaced the springs, and hate to replace one part at a time only to find it may be the motor. Any advice is appreciated
I have same problem. Did you figure out the problem?
@@msmith7472 yes, it was the mode shifter actuator
I sent mine to a recycle place and bought a secondhand Whirlpool washer and dryer. The washer is a manual operation machine, with knobs, lots of choices, basically does what I want it to. Can fill it to meet my needs. The lid doesn't lock, but when you open it, washing will stop, then resume when the lid is closed. Large capacity, cleans well, easy to add bleach or other. AND, for both W&D, I paid $200.00 I'm stoked. Will never purchase an AMANA again.
Hey Josh, I have one of these washers and it continues to run the drain cycle without shutting off. There have been loads where it hasn't finished the drain cycle, leaving water in it. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks so much, Ben
Try holding your power button down for 20 seconds to reset the board. Then make sure your drain hose is elevated past the midway point on the washer before it goes into its drain hose location. Just make sure it's not going to a floor drain and you have elevation on the drain hose.
Great video....thank you ! Any suggestions....I replaced the shocks and its still banging. Washer is identical . Thank you again !!!
If there is a leak I got rustdown there do I need to replace the washer
Great video bud I love that u didn't edit and it's like real life like u said. Thanks for the tip with the screeching sound to not think bearings instantly may be loose belt or Motor cause bearings suck changing out lol! Appreciate the video. Now I know how to calibrate and do error codes u have alot of info in here and it's great
Thanks for watching!!
Mine is having similar issue only there is a clicking sound when the agitator tries to move and it doesn’t move and than gets stuck on rinse . my machine keeps getting stuck on rinse and I thought it was rinse issue but the issue starts with the agitator no longer working if you see this thank you for your help .
A real world video... part bad out of the box !
Happens too much these days.
How did you bypass the lid lock?
Very helpful! Can you do video how to bypass the lid lock?
You can’t bypass it like the old ones
The link says kenmore whirlpool maytag...is it ok with amana? Prob all the same...i ordered it🤞
My washer is filling up but doesn't wash. But the rinse and spin cycle works also the drain and spin cycle works. Could mine have the same problem and if yes how much does the part cost
That would be my guess, sounds like it's not switching over to agitate. I would check Amazon or partsdr.com after researching your model number for the price.
Great Video Josh! IT helps me understand a-lot, and knowing where the Service Manual is ... WONDERFUL! Whirlpool WTW4816FW2 1.) Automatic Test Mode: No Codes 2.) When agitating there is a loud grinding sound (sounds like 22:32 in video when the gears are trying to engage) this sound continues as long as the agitator is going in one direction, once it reverses direction it sounds normal. 3.) I haven the "calibration mode" a number of times thinking the splutch motor needs to zero in ... no change 4.) do you think that the symptoms add up to a "shift actuator"?
Yes, that is what I would start with replacing that shift actuator.
I have a chirp. It spins water out not agitating anymore. Every part I can see looks fine not seeing any wear
I have a amana I purchased it from Lowes last year. The very first time I used it it had issues, but lowes refused to take it back. It started freezing up on the final spin and would not unlock until you reset it but it had to run another cycle. Now almost a year later it just rinsing. Any suggestions besides a trip to the scrap yard.
Sounds like it’s throwing a code. That will cause the lid lock to flash at the end of the cycle and I’ve seen them stay locked until you unplug and plug back in. The service manual is located inside the housing, top left if looking at the machine from the front. You can reach you hand in between the tub and top and pull it out of the bag it’s in stuck to the front housing. It’ll walk you through checking for error codes, and tons of videos on how to do it.
I appreciate learning where to find the Service Technician's paper.
The one I found in my model NTW4516FW3 is more abbreviated than the one you show. This model looks very similar to your model in the video, except it has the Auto-Fill feature.
The problem that I have is that it will fail to operate correctly in Regular Mode only. In Heavy and Casual, and I assume the other modes, it works fine.
In Regular Mode it barely agitates and there is a continuous clicking sound. It also adds more water at intervals and then does the lame agitation and clicking again.
The code seems to be the same as you found. F7E5 - I think. When I went thru the sequence and pushed start, all greens blinked in a double pattern. But when I switched the dial up to the top, I got the F7E5. My paper just says "shifter fault", which would mean nothing to me if not for your information. So I thank you for this help.
Hate to just throw parts at a problem without really knowing, but in this case I might gamble the $40. I could call a professional, but where's the fun in that?
I know it’s been 3 months, but that’s a shift actuator issue.
Hello. I am still troubleshooting my Amana. It is agitating on the “fill sensing” mode. I have went thru several diagnostic tests, but no error codes are showing up. I replaced the water level switch, but still no luck. Do you have any idea what I should do at this point? 😭😔
It should be spinning lightly while filling. I had this issue a couple weeks ago and had to try another shifter. That did it for me. One shifter was bad out of the box. Be sure to calibrate after the new shifter goes on.
Would the shifter actuator be the reason for my washing doing nothing but “ticking” noise?
Mine doing same thing
hi...im tryin to save some time and money myself. I read a bunch online about my kenmore 110 series washer and everyone said the lid lock switch will stop my washer from moving into the wash and spin mode. New switch didnt fix it. ...it still makes a very slight noise like its trying to start or move but it wont. like a humm sorta. not a squeal or grind. I took the shit motor out and cleaned the sensors, that didnt fix it either. i can turn the motor pulley and belt by hand with no issue. I get the shift actuator code in the diag mode. In the manual mode it will dump water and pump water...but will not agitate or spin. I ordered a shifter...but if that doesnt do it....i have no idea waht it could be. any help? thanks
How do I get a new book?
Great video but why does my actuator keep failing?
Either buying cheap replacements, or a bad board can keep burning them out.
My machine just like this one will not spin or agitate. The belt is fine. It starts to spin and then quits. Like on turn. Is that the actuator?
The actuator is also the speed sensor, if it can’t tell how fast it’s going it will not spin.
I changed the actuator and my machine runs like new. So glad I watched your video and I thank you!
Awesome!!
I have a similar issue I think. I broke my lid lock by ripping open the door impatiently. Breaking a small plastic piece. It was currently slowing down after hitting pause cycle and spinning. Would ripping it open at that time mess the shifter up?
I tried to bypass by "hotwiring" the three wored that came from the back to the lock assembly. Would that fry the computer?
Sorry for the late reply. Yes it sounds like you broke the lid switch and you can’t Hotwire these new machines. If the machine doesn’t detect the lid being opened after 2 or 3 loads it throws a code and shuts down. I’d buy a new lid lock on Amazon and switch to decaf bro. Good luck! 👍🏻
my amana fills but then drains and never moves to the wash cycle. the wash light comes on after draining and then nothing. the drain/spin cycle works and i checked the individual modes and they all worked. would the shift actuator be the reason it doesn’t move in to the wash cycle?
Yes, but it could also be that it’s taking too long to fill up with water. If you disconnect the hoses on the back of your machine and make sure to clean out all the gunk that builds up in there that might help. Just be sure to turn your water off first lol.
@@joshcobb4100 i will try that. thank you so much!!!
I dont know what i did but now the lights flashes my right to left one by one
The manual is inside the barrel cavity??
SERVICE manual.
It's in the top back panel
When I did the final spin test mode it got stuck on wash and did nothing for a long time and then finally continued.
Well that wasn’t very nice of it.
It is not always the actuator. I replaced my actuator no change. Then I tested the actuator with a test cord and it shifted okay. I am waiting for a used control board.
Let me know how it goes! Have you recalibrated it?
@@joshcobb4100 Yes I recalibtate after every parts replacement. When I was checking the washer I watched the acuator it would slightly move. The new acuator had the same movement but would not shift. Hooking power directly to the acuator it shifted fine.
Sounds like you know what you are doing. Did you by chance check all the wire connections? Definitely sounds like it's not getting enough power and definitely could be a bad board, but the owner's manual does say to check all the connections first. FYI. You can also reset the board itself by unplugging the machine and holding the power button in for 20 seconds.... Might be worth a shot.
Yes I checked the wiring and reset the board. I did open up the control panel and found dead bugs stuck to the board. Right on the main power connector circut. I wonder if the bugs shorted out the board.
@@billw4746Hey. How did things pan out? Was it actually the control board.
I have a question? After replacing the actuator it spins now but it flashes the spin light after couple spins. What do you recommend?
Do you have an email to contact you directly?
My Amana washer I did the diagnostic testing on it
And it ran through all the cycle but it has five lights starting from the first one all the way to the 5th complete cycle complete and it stopped there
I couldn't say for sure without checking it myself, but my experience in the past has been your issue is caused by a bad shift actuator.
14:43 have Ben noticing the same thing for decades now. Washers built in 70-80s were by no means made to save power or water by they got job done, even in 90s but closer got to 2000s things changed. Than in todays world, OEM, OE, 3rd party can all be made at same factory and w/ same materials; just have different labels and numbers.
And yes, I’ll buy big bulk order of thermal fuses and out of the 200 I get, 50 can be bad; and so on for other sorts for really any appliance and computers/devices etc these days….
Truth
I had the same problem.
The Tach test was ok and voltages on the actuator was ok.
I took the splutch/Clutch apart and applied a light grease on the splines of the shaft. The actuator operates a circular
lever above the clutch which has like three steps or four which engage and disengage the clutch, I applied a thin film of grease it makes it easier for the actuator to function...problem
solved.
Tip, don't use powered soap it corrodes the lid switch, heavy loads shortens the life of the suspension rods...poor design.
I have a multimeter how do you check the voltages on the actuator? Or how do I check the ohms on the actuator?
@stephengagliardi6111 The service manual should be hidden behind the control knobs, or behind the front of the washer, he showed where it's located.
That machine needs struts. They are cheap, do it.
You do it 😆
@@joshcobb4100 pay for me to come out there and I will.
My god. A long story...and he's slow
Momma always said life is like a box of choco lates….
Also another tip in between the motor shaft and the transmission there is a coupler and the plastic pieces snap all the time over time from wear n tear I've changed those out alot myself. This is when a customer complains of a screeching or grinding sound
Great video. A little long, but well worth it for the details,. It's important to know that this actuator is more than a shift mechanism, they(amana) call that sensor, coupled with the actuator a tach or tachy, and it is capable of wreaking havoc on these machines, especiallyif you're not aware of it. The best I've seen on this particular shift actuator issue.
Thanks!