Do you have any tips from a routesetter's perspective for how to find the beta? I've been climbing ~ 1 year and I have this problem that I cannot read a route from the ground I can only figure the out by climbing and feeling it. I look at a climb from the ground and get an idea in my head of how I'm meant to do it and then I get on the wall and my plan always fails immediately but I realise there's a different way to do it. Is this just lack of experience? Is there anything I can do to get better at reading a route before I climb it? Are there any telltale signs that routesetters leave to indicate what the beta is?
I think you’ll definitely be more comfortable with reading routes as you gain more experience as more weird and complex moves are present with higher grades, and you’ll know what kind of move is required when the holds are positioned a certain way. But i think the most progress I’ve made with my route reading was to set my own routes and asking freinds to climb them, my first few were with tape and it showed me how holds needed to be positioned and orientated in order to force a move on the climber. As a routesetter, I tend to try to make the beta of my routes either very obvious; with moves that flow into another elegantly, or a bit more difficult to figure out requiring the climber having to think about their body position, so don’t worry if your plans don’t work out because it might be our intention to trip you up. Some of the tell tale signs is the chalk mark, but more specifically the thumb print chalk mark; it’s something I always look out for when I read. It tells me how I’ll have to grab the hold in order to best continue. Regarding your issue with the beta you planned not working out once you get on the route, my mentor always told me to always have backup betas for each move, this allows you to not have to figure out another beta when your on the route: wasting energy.
That's very kind of you to say! Tbh i didn't expect my vids to get more than like; 20 views. Just passion projects for me to share with my small community! (and to practice my video-making skills) =)) haha
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Do you have any tips from a routesetter's perspective for how to find the beta? I've been climbing ~ 1 year and I have this problem that I cannot read a route from the ground I can only figure the out by climbing and feeling it. I look at a climb from the ground and get an idea in my head of how I'm meant to do it and then I get on the wall and my plan always fails immediately but I realise there's a different way to do it. Is this just lack of experience? Is there anything I can do to get better at reading a route before I climb it? Are there any telltale signs that routesetters leave to indicate what the beta is?
I think you’ll definitely be more comfortable with reading routes as you gain more experience as more weird and complex moves are present with higher grades, and you’ll know what kind of move is required when the holds are positioned a certain way. But i think the most progress I’ve made with my route reading was to set my own routes and asking freinds to climb them, my first few were with tape and it showed me how holds needed to be positioned and orientated in order to force a move on the climber. As a routesetter, I tend to try to make the beta of my routes either very obvious; with moves that flow into another elegantly, or a bit more difficult to figure out requiring the climber having to think about their body position, so don’t worry if your plans don’t work out because it might be our intention to trip you up. Some of the tell tale signs is the chalk mark, but more specifically the thumb print chalk mark; it’s something I always look out for when I read. It tells me how I’ll have to grab the hold in order to best continue. Regarding your issue with the beta you planned not working out once you get on the route, my mentor always told me to always have backup betas for each move, this allows you to not have to figure out another beta when your on the route: wasting energy.
@@bao.ng04 Thanks so much!
broooo how does this gem of a video have only 34 likes?!?!?!?!?! and only 1k views?!?!? wtfff this is so well made
That's very kind of you to say! Tbh i didn't expect my vids to get more than like; 20 views. Just passion projects for me to share with my small community! (and to practice my video-making skills) =)) haha
*height at 2:33
hahaha, yes i’ve been told >.< stupid typo