Really makes think about ditching that factory clutch basket don't it? I'm fixing to tear into mine for compensator issues and decided to do the baker chain tensioner also but everything I see is pointing me to upgrade the clutch basket.
Do you have any videos on the Trask Clutch basket install. We have tried everything and my streetglide still won't shift smoothly. It also lunges forward shifting to first even with the clutch engaged.
I am running a 32t solid comp in my 103. Noisy with stock tensioner. Debating going back to a SE comp or Baker and using the Hayden or Baker tensioner. 2 questions, have you rode this solid comp with the Baker adjuster? Noisy? 2nd, how was the noise once you went on the loose side of adjustment when using the Baker comp and adjuster? Thanks
Last summer I had the solid comp and a Baker adjuster installed. I had the chain adjusted toward the loose side. When adjusting the chain, make sure you rotate the clutch basket 360 degrees and check the chain tension at several intervals. Between crank and transmission shaft run outs there can be differences all the way around. I set mine so the slackest point in the chain is as close to 7/8” as I can get it. If need be, I would go a little over 7/8” if that’s what it takes to keep the tightest spot at a minimum of 5/8”. This set up didn’t seem noisy to me. The primary always makes noise but it was well within what I would call normal as I forgot it was even there. I really likes the solid comp, no more clunking noises. The only extra vibration I noticed was at idle sitting at stop lights and that wasn’t bad at all. I would dump the stock tensioner and go with a Hayden if you are keeping the solid comp. I’ve heard that it’s a little more forgiving when running a solid comp. I’m not worried about it as I have an S&S crank and I’m not worried about it scissoring. That being said I made more changes this winter and haven’t been able to ride yet. Last winter when I went to a solid comp, I also rebuild my engine. Last summer when I’d get on it hard from a stop, my clutch would slip even with a Screaming Eagle variable pressure clutch. So this winter I’ve installed a Barnett clutch and a Dark Horse Man O War comp. I kept the Baker tensioner. It will be interesting to see how this performs. So to answer your question, I liked the solid comp with the Baker adjuster much, much better than the stock set up and it wasn’t noisy. In my opinion your noise problems are from the stock tensioner being too tight. I’m no expert and don’t claim to be but I’d get ride of that stock tensioner and put in a Hayden with your solid comp if you have a stock crank. It will probably be a little noisy until the shoe breaks in a little. I hope this helps.
87gtNOS I failed to catch that even though it’s in the first line of your comment. You will probably have to go with the Baker assuming it will adjust up for a 32T sprocket. I’ve never looked into it. You might give Baker a call and make sure their tensioner works with a 32T sprocket before buying one. Again, I was happy with the Baker tensioner and a solid comp, just don’t get it too tight.
@@skydude426 Funny thing, when I talked to Fuel Moto before buying my Man O War, they actually stated the same thing that was included in the DarkHorse documentation - that is, "works with the stock primary chain & tensioner".
Looking over your videos, it seems your bike has really been through it. I think that all of this was manifested by that Hayden M6 - the chain looked too tight from the beginning. I guess we'll never know for sure - but it sure seems you've spent a lot of time in that primary.
@@skydude426 ... I hated my Twin Power comp sprocket. I pulled mine off and went with the Darkhorse comp sprocket. They require 1/2 inch or just a hair tighter tension. Problem is, according to TMan Performance, twin cam motors are very noisy with a solid sprocket. To help with this, you need to change the 1st gear to the new M8 first gear. I'm pulling mine off and going to the SE sprocket and will use the Baker adjuster with a new chain. Hope you had better luck with your sprocket than I did.
My mechanic put a Baker Compensator and their “Attitude Adjuster” in my 2012 and it makes so much noise, it’s horrible. Baker won’t do anything. I hope I can make it to Sturgis so their techs can fix it.
I like the Baker Attitude Adjuster but I’m not convinced that the Baker compensator is all it’s cracked up to be based on many comments I’ve read about it. I hope you get satisfaction out of it.
Michael Marshall the adjustment is made by loosening the nut above the shoe. That will allow the movement of the shoe bracket up or down by notches. If you do it, you’ll easily see what I’m talking about. As far as chain slack measurements, you can see me do it in the video. I’m holding the end of the tape against the top of the chain case just to keep it stable. I’m then moving the chain up and down to see how much travel there is. I’m comparing the top of the chain to the marks on the tape measure.
Thanks for posting this, it is really useful. Checking mine right now!!
Good video thanks for posting it. I would like to see how the new clutch components affect the primary chain adjustment.
Really makes think about ditching that factory clutch basket don't it? I'm fixing to tear into mine for compensator issues and decided to do the baker chain tensioner also but everything I see is pointing me to upgrade the clutch basket.
Funny you should mention that. I have a complete clutch including the basket, plates and spring on order from Barnett. Should be here later this week.
I did the trask basket with the dark horse compensator. No complaints
Do you have any videos on the Trask Clutch basket install. We have tried everything and my streetglide still won't shift smoothly. It also lunges forward shifting to first even with the clutch engaged.
If your bike lunges forward with the clutch lever pulled in, it sounds like your clutch is out of adjustment.
I do have a video for that.
ruclips.net/video/hAPre9aBXKs/видео.html
Damn....that sure seems like a lot of slack. What does it sould like when running?
It’s the slack specified by baker and earlier models with manual adjusters. It sounds like any other primary.
I am running a 32t solid comp in my 103. Noisy with stock tensioner. Debating going back to a SE comp or Baker and using the Hayden or Baker tensioner. 2 questions, have you rode this solid comp with the Baker adjuster? Noisy? 2nd, how was the noise once you went on the loose side of adjustment when using the Baker comp and adjuster? Thanks
Last summer I had the solid comp and a Baker adjuster installed. I had the chain adjusted toward the loose side. When adjusting the chain, make sure you rotate the clutch basket 360 degrees and check the chain tension at several intervals. Between crank and transmission shaft run outs there can be differences all the way around. I set mine so the slackest point in the chain is as close to 7/8” as I can get it. If need be, I would go a little over 7/8” if that’s what it takes to keep the tightest spot at a minimum of 5/8”.
This set up didn’t seem noisy to me. The primary always makes noise but it was well within what I would call normal as I forgot it was even there. I really likes the solid comp, no more clunking noises. The only extra vibration I noticed was at idle sitting at stop lights and that wasn’t bad at all.
I would dump the stock tensioner and go with a Hayden if you are keeping the solid comp. I’ve heard that it’s a little more forgiving when running a solid comp. I’m not worried about it as I have an S&S crank and I’m not worried about it scissoring.
That being said I made more changes this winter and haven’t been able to ride yet. Last winter when I went to a solid comp, I also rebuild my engine. Last summer when I’d get on it hard from a stop, my clutch would slip even with a Screaming Eagle variable pressure clutch. So this winter I’ve installed a Barnett clutch and a Dark Horse Man O War comp. I kept the Baker tensioner. It will be interesting to see how this performs.
So to answer your question, I liked the solid comp with the Baker adjuster much, much better than the stock set up and it wasn’t noisy. In my opinion your noise problems are from the stock tensioner being too tight. I’m no expert and don’t claim to be but I’d get ride of that stock tensioner and put in a Hayden with your solid comp if you have a stock crank. It will probably be a little noisy until the shoe breaks in a little. I hope this helps.
@@skydude426 my only issue when it comes to tensioners is my solid is a 32t....
87gtNOS I failed to catch that even though it’s in the first line of your comment. You will probably have to go with the Baker assuming it will adjust up for a 32T sprocket. I’ve never looked into it. You might give Baker a call and make sure their tensioner works with a 32T sprocket before buying one. Again, I was happy with the Baker tensioner and a solid comp, just don’t get it too tight.
One year old comment-Should have went with a DarkHorse Man-O-War............
@@skydude426 Funny thing, when I talked to Fuel Moto before buying my Man O War, they actually stated the same thing that was included in the DarkHorse documentation - that is, "works with the stock primary chain & tensioner".
One revolution of the compensator sprocket is about half the chain. Just saying, good video.
Looking over your videos, it seems your bike has really been through it. I think that all of this was manifested by that Hayden M6 - the chain looked too tight from the beginning. I guess we'll never know for sure - but it sure seems you've spent a lot of time in that primary.
Which solid sprocket did you go with to replace the compensator? I've been looking to replace mine with the baker compensator
I went with the Twin Power sprocket.
twinpower-usa.com/34-tooth-compensator-eliminator-sprocket.html
you would be better off keeping a comp unless your drag racing
@@skydude426 ... I hated my Twin Power comp sprocket. I pulled mine off and went with the Darkhorse comp sprocket. They require 1/2 inch or just a hair tighter tension. Problem is, according to TMan Performance, twin cam motors are very noisy with a solid sprocket. To help with this, you need to change the 1st gear to the new M8 first gear. I'm pulling mine off and going to the SE sprocket and will use the Baker adjuster with a new chain. Hope you had better luck with your sprocket than I did.
@@tomjones4093 I love mine. No problems at all.
My mechanic put a Baker Compensator and their “Attitude Adjuster” in my 2012 and it makes so much noise, it’s horrible. Baker won’t do anything. I hope I can make it to Sturgis so their techs can fix it.
I like the Baker Attitude Adjuster but I’m not convinced that the Baker compensator is all it’s cracked up to be based on many comments I’ve read about it. I hope you get satisfaction out of it.
You didn't show how to make the actual adjustment , just how to measure the amount of slack in the chain.
Michael Marshall the adjustment is made by loosening the nut above the shoe. That will allow the movement of the shoe bracket up or down by notches. If you do it, you’ll easily see what I’m talking about. As far as chain slack measurements, you can see me do it in the video. I’m holding the end of the tape against the top of the chain case just to keep it stable. I’m then moving the chain up and down to see how much travel there is. I’m comparing the top of the chain to the marks on the tape measure.
what cant hear anything
All he showed is how to measure.