BMW Rough Idle Finally Solved! | Easy Fix
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- The BMW rough idle is now finally solved!
UPDATE: Rough Idle is NOW FIXED: • BMW N52 Rough Idle Pro...
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UPDATE: So I've found the real cause of the rough idle.. Watch the video HERE: ruclips.net/video/vlfTE31VlOw/видео.html
Instablaster.
Is there any chance you can send me the engine scheme for the engine m47n2 I would to have a look at the valvetronic motor
Kind regards
So u just keep finding issues to make videos lol. We know that trick
😂😂😂🎉
I just bought a 325i very cheap with this exact issue and I removed the MAF and it's runnin smooth. I'll have to look more into what the issue is exactly but this is a good start.
Did you fix it ?
@@arisowski Yes, I replaced the Vanos Solenoids and the check valves. Running perfectly now.
Thanks Broo
I just had this same problem. I bought mine used with a very rough running engine. It's taken a week of work and a ton of part replacement and after replacing literally everything, I unplugged the MAF and it started running perfectly. Going to pickup my replacement today.
How did that work out?
Yeah
My 2006 325i has had several hiccups over the years, but I got incredibly lucky with the rough idle issue several years back. I managed to fix it with 1 single zip tie properly seating the intake.
Where?
The video footage is crystal clear thank you. I have BMW650I 2007 convertible. Has similar issues. When the engine is cooled it is like roller coaster the RPM. Up and down. But when the engine is warm nothing at all. It was mess firing. The problem was the airflow hose and both side where the hose is connected. Had the three parts replaced due to age. The car start well with no issues. I guess having an old BMW650I you need a monthly budget of £100-150 kept to one side. Unless you are doing a regular maintenance then the cost would show. I just had the AC compressor replaced, the belt, dryer with labor costing £270. Need new shock observers front side and some parts at the back. BMW650I a fantastic and safe to drive with amazing performance BUT it has its cost. Thank you once again as air and fuel ⛽️ issues caused the my BMW650I issues. It was pretty reasonable to replace the parts at a cost of just over £100 at a local garage.
Having the same probably with my 650
@@GodsArmyOnEarthJust get the PVC checked very easy to do. You might discover the pvc plastic damaged. Cost around £20 each. Labor pretty cheap. Both PVC can be replaced with max 15 minutes while you waiting. IF connection hose damaged? Then get it replaced with used hose original or new at cost of £50. SO basically you need £120-150 budget. Good luck 👍
I had similar. The N52 actually runs better with the MAF-less tune, ESPECIALLY at first start. You should flash your car with it, costs nothing and its not difficult procedure, just requires a D-CAN K+ OBD cable and a Windows laptop (DO NOT USE Mac with VMware, it will appear to work but doesn't). If you don't already have 330i power, you will after the tune as it adds quite a bit of power and more responsive throttle to non-330i cars (323, 325, 328). You still have to leave the MAF in as it relies on the temperature sensor that is built into the MAF. Some markets already got the MAF-less tune which includes the temp sensor in the intake but omits the MAF. Its a BMW "tune".
where can I find the M54 maf less tune? and which software do you use for the remap?
George the white wire wrapped around the PCV pipe is a heater wire and the foam you've removed is like an insulation. The wire is heated to prevent condensation forming in the pipe which would then form the milky substance that blocks the pipe/PCV valve which is that roundish part under the intake. These pipes are renowned for breaking since they become brittle over time, so definitely get a new PCV valve and associated pipes.
Didn’t know that mate, cheers. Already ordered the complete new kit anyway 👍🏻
I have a question mate. Would be glad if you could answer. I got the N47N and if the crankcase ventilation is clogged up because of the defect PCV valve might this be the cause of oil near the turbo ( clean air turbine side of the turbo) ? I thought I could ask you as you answered very wise regarding the N52 covered in this video.
@@kjschrauber2126 I currently have the F10 with the N47D20C engine where the PCV system is completely different and unrestricted, so unless the rubber diaphragm on the top of the engine cover has ruptured (George has covered this in one of his videos) this is completely normal in these engines. Having said that you can reduce the oil by adding a catch can, I have one fitted and it definitely prevents the oil vapour going straight back into the intake, which on my car is just before the cold side of the turbo. I've just emptied the catch can after 5000 miles and it was really surprising how much it had captured. This not only stops the oil building up in the cold side of the turbo but also the intercooler and inturn prevents it mixing with the EGR gases causing carbon build up in the intake manifold.
Yeah I have considered a catch can myself but only would if it is a factory fitting. It’s not such a big problem for me as I don’t have any exhaust gases going through my intake which is spotlessly clean 🙌🏼
It absolutely worked! I was stranded in a bad spot but disconnecting the AFS allowed me to get it home so I could check my whole AF system. Thanks a million my friend.
No prob!
What exactly did you change the air flow sensor?
Od czego ten czujnik jest?
Thank you very much for this video, My 550i e60 is having the exact same problem. I live and work in Munich and this started since I had replace the head gaskets and rocker covers . I was supposed to pick up the car tonight and could not because on cold start the car is ok but when it warms up it starts shaking and the engine management light is on as well.
once again thank you very much for this video.
Thank you. The description you gave sounds exactly like my problem. I'm going to try your method and get back shortly
Did you try. If so did it work?
I have a 2006 523i E60 with the N52 Engine as well. I replaced the Original Sensor proforma wise with a new sensor from Bremi. It worked fine for most of the driving. But when i stepped full on the throttle at low rpms like 1500 and below there was a noticable shock through the car, as if the engine would not get fuel for a second or so. Although i deleted all the adaption values with my inpa software. So i bought a new maf again now from Continental/ VDO the Original BMW was a Siemens / VDO back in 2006. And i again deleted all the adaption values and drove it for about 30 miles for relearning new values. And....The Problem or the Phenomena of harsh behavoiur when stepping on the pedal at low rpms was gone completely. Also the fuel consumption was dropping and really good. And on the motorway the acceleration in 6 th gear from 60 mph up to 100 mph feeled like it increased. So my recommendation: Only BMW original parts or at least the company that was originally used by bmw ( in this case VDO ). This i can advise for all BMW Cars and their electrical components. 😊
From my research on these engines, the MAF is almost certainly NOT your issue, particularly without a code. Chances are your CCV pipe is actually broken and you just can't see it. Mine broke into several pieces doing my valve cover. This will cause a vacuum leak and the rough idle. The only issue these have with the MAF is actually the connector. Try giving it a good soak in electrical contact cleaner but I'm pretty confident that's not your issue. Good luck though, no codes sucks!
I am replacing my entire CCV system in a few weeks anyway so we shall see :)
It could be a part of it tho ... seriously
This is the same engine Peogeot used on their 207/308 model cars of 2006-2012. Is very problematic engine even on Peogeot rough idle and misfire is very common problems with no codes.
The BMW N52?!
@@reflexcoil9808 You made me laugh :))) Peugeot never had inline six bmw engines :)))) 🤣
I had a rough idle on my e60. And it was my coils. I ordered a set and it took care of the issue.
Would you not have a misfire code though?
Mine just did this. Coil #5 was dead. New coil, all good now. FYI, it did throw the related code.
My bmw 116i from 2006 is idling exactly the same as in this video after i drive it for a good while. Bringing it to a garage that's specialized in bmw soon.
Did you ever get it fix?
Man, you are fantastic !!!
your video solve my problem
my E92 325i rpm was going up and down while AC is on
and when ever it is on R or D
I removed the MAF sensor and voalaaaaaa every thing turned perfect, even the performance improved a way better
I really appreciate your efforts
I will replace it soon for an hem
Watch my other rough idle video
Finally!! Thanks man this sorted the problem out for me, was trying to figure it out for over a month now.
Greetings!
Thanks a lot for the tip. I am having the exact same problem, it started suddenly.
I had so many thing looked at after my rocker cover gasket and finally after a scout on RUclips I found all my problems where caused by a blocked one way oil sender for the vanos there are 2 of them located on the left hand side of the engine one above the other 2 x t40 torque bolts and the bolt itself is the sender found one clogged up with gritty oil from the rocker cover cleaner re-fitted no more problems 👍 2005 525i
Yep I made a video cleaning those👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters great videos mate keep up the good work 💪
Although the maf sensor can be the issue, it doesn't mean for sure the sensor is bad if it runs good after disconnecting it. It is possible that you have a vacuum leak, even more likely when you are experiencing rough idle right after changing your rocker cover gasket. It could also be the maf wiring but that's less common.
I did my valve cover gasket and my N52 ran as poor as yours did. I ended up finding that I didn't fully insert the breather hose from the valve cover to the intake manifold. Disconnecting the MAF would have made the engine run more smoothly even if the sensor was good.
Well I am replacing the CCV system soon so we shall see👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters I hope you figure it out.
The problem if you drive it with MAF unplugged (till u receive the new sensor) it will run in limb mode, it will accelerate super slow and the rpm running high all the time and if you have auto gearbox the shifting will be horrible like a broken gearbox and you'll have gearbox light in the dashboard as well.
Had exactly the same symptoms and by replacing the whole pcv “system” like the valve and breather hoses fixed.
Will be replacing the CCV system soon too👍🏻
Replaced whole valve cover, all gaskets, the hose that connects from the valve cover to the intake manifold, and still getting mixture to lean in bank 1 and 2.. sooo fuckin annoying this is my second BMW I’ve owned and idk if I can’t handle this shit anymore. BMWs are nothing but a money pit. Just love how they look.
@@MoHawkAnakin sounds like your o2 sensor is bad
Experiencing the same thing with my 2015 1 series. Might try disconnecting the MAF sensor.
Thanks for video, it is always good to start from small things as they keep the money in the pocket
Often times removing a sensor like the MAF will put the car into a default using TPS and Map sensors or crank/cam sensors to run the engine when a variable is unknown. This will eliminate certain systems like vanos, etc. and make the engine run better. It can trick you into believing that you've found the fault.
In this case it forces it out of valvetronic mode and runs on conventional trottle body mode
Good shit bro I’ve done everything trying to figure this out and I’m not a car guy lol
Good evening dear George. Thank you very much your video. Its helpful. My e65 730d been cleaned maf sensor around 6 months ago. Now started to shaking badly. Short period of time has bad smell stopping and start again within few minutes. Im not sure.I will disconnect the sensor to check if this is the reason but Im not sure about the smell. (The glow plugs changed.) No smoke or anything like this.. If you can give me please some advice out of maf sensor what should I check it up its really helpful. Thank you very much
Hello George!Thanks for the video 📹. I need your help I have oil appears on the vanos solenoid connector,I'm replaced vanos solenoid, but new one have the same issue.What could it be?
Fucking thank you. I'm not going to drive my BMW off a bridge now because of you 🙏
Thanks a lot finally solved from South Africa
If you have air leaks just buy cheapest smoke machine and put smoke in to the intake. You will see smoke in leak places.
That’s the plan
Good idea, any videos on this?
I will try out that one soon, a new sensor is on the way, after I have changed glow plugs, relay, fuel sensor still smoking, haven’t checked the injectors hope they still alright
Hi George, firstly thanks for spending the time to make these videos!
I notice you seem to have different coils, black and grey... while I haven't watched all of your N52 videos yet... did you replace them?
Funnily enough mine are the same combination of black and grey.
Yes watch my n52 ignition coils replacement video👍🏻
i got rought idle on my e90 cannot found out what cause, couple weeks later i solve, it was MAF conne ctor, i put rubber band around it now car idling like a new again
Yeah I got a very similar issue I thought it was the timing belt because I just change the spark plugs but I didn't change the coils but thanks for the video♠️♦️
By unplugging the MAF sensor you’ve caused it to go into open loop. The MAF may not be the issue at all.
Did you read the description?
It doesn’t go into open loop. Disconnecting it means cars runs of a default ecu value hence why it runs despite the disconnect. High chance it’s the issue given its faulty input is eliminated.
Thanks to your video I used my e53 for 2 weeks. I had a massive vacuum leak and unplug the MAF sensor to help me. But in my case it caused the error “Trans. Fail Safety Mode ”and the gearbox kicked like a horse.
any update
Did you find out why your gearbox did this? I have a x5 that's doing the exact same
@@michaelmartin798, when I changed the intake hose ane reconected the MAF sensor the error of transmission disapeared.
@@michaelmartin798 The car saw that the MAF sensor isn't connected so it put the gearbox to the safe mode to awarn the driver. After I had changed the intake hose and reconnected the MAF the safemode disapeared itself.
I don't think you have an issue with MAF. Usually, if you disconnect MAF and the idle gets better, you have a vacuum leak. Most likely intake manifold gaskets, throttle body gaskets, or in the worst case, PCV issues
Watch my other rough idle fixed video👌🏼
@@GeorgeAusters Lol, yeah, I saw it a few hours after writing this comment. Indeed, a vacuum leak! Just not where I thought it was going to be, lol. VANOS actuator gasket is the last thing that would go bad between PCV, Intake gaskets, or throttle body gaskets. Great thing you managed to fix it. I also broke my PCV hoses when removing the intake to fetch a broken DISA flap out of #3 port. Car ran like crap, replaced the hoses and the valve and it's back to normal!
I would have inspected spark plugs, maf sensor cleanup and vacuum leak along with the coils🍟
Watch my latest video regarding the rough idle👍🏻
That was my problem.Thanks
Mass airflow sensor is NOT your problem by disconeting it system defaults to a predetermined mixture setting in DME overriding O2 sensor inputs .You need a scantool to monitor mixtures ..then diagnose from there whether too rich or too lean throwing parts at it won't work
Yep found out the issue later
Turbo Control Solenoid and new injectors fixed my f10
Many times some injector Techron cleaner smooths it out. Bad gas is certainly a culprit.
Almost did Sounds like my N47
Ive had an issue similar to this with my n52 where when i push it to 100+mph after I’m done and driving normal on the streets at a stop I’ll see the RPMs revving up to 1-1.5k. I’m planning on changing the spark plugs soon but I’ll try the maf sensor too.
Watch my latest video on the issue where I fixed it
Same thing been happening to me, it’s definitely the mass air flow sensor they don’t give codes so you wouldn’t know..
@@GeorgeAusters hi the video in question is the current one or another one, if so could you send the link, many thanks in advance
did you ever find out what the problem was?
@@saucemasterflexx no I cleaned the maf sensor and im pretty sure it helped with fuel economy but it still revs itself though not as frequently but im sure its cause I have a front suspension problem keeping me from going fast
Hey bro really good video.
I have a bmw 135 13plate.
I changed all spark plugs, coils and injectors all recoded and still runs really bad misfiring!
Anything else could be? I have checked the ecu is ok and wiring including coils sitting properly!
Please help thank you
Is your pcv valve OK?
2006 530i, mine just started rough idling so I’m tryna be on top of it as soon as I can, doesn’t sound that bad. Revs between 1k and .5, though sometimes it starts and wants to choke. Possible the fuel injectors and spark plugs
I love ❤ when someone explains 😌 in details and diagnose the problems
Not shove the dam camera in there own face 🙄
You’re welcome man!
Have you tried to put new MAF sensor? I am having same issue and will try your trick tomorrow. But curious anyone tried to buy new sensor and replaced and if it worked ? Any advise is appreciated
I'm looking at a used 2007 328xi wagon w/170,000. The current owner is frustrated with it and has replaced spark plugs, intake manifold gasket, valve cover w/CCV valve and crank case hoses.
He said that headgasket is fine, as well as compression!
He's dealing with a random misfire and a p0300 code.
It's in beautiful condition in and out. Is it worth taking the risk at $3k? What should I expect, ignition coils, injectors...?
Great video! Helped me a lot with my e46!!
Thanks George
Great to hear!
Man I'm bout to jus put my car to the side honestly because I jus spent 3k on a job just to turn around for it to be another problem. I've had several different things told to me along with this tick. That nobody can figure out but assuming I need a motor an now this problem 🤦🏿♂️😡
Bruh get your own hands dirty, I don’t mean to bring race into this but where I’m from I’ve had shops tell me my engine was gone or my transmission was bad trying to drain all of the money they can from me. Research on your own and invest in tools and diagnostic tools. Start wrenching yourself. I end up spending less than a 1/4 of what it’d cost to have others fix my car. I’ve seen first hand how mechanics will overcharge women and men of color who don’t know any better
@@mogulme6190 sadly that's something I'm in the process of doing already. I've realized that with all these shop's but Im saving now because my motor is locked up and. Well you know how that goes for BMW and sadly most shops are full now so either way I'm playing the waiting and saving game. It's a car I really wish my lady didn't buy at the time
Yeah I’m gonna put my car for sale after I fix this issue. BMWs are just ticking time bombs
Hello I have same problem after I change valve cover gasket gave me 4 different misfires on 328i e92 now is having a hard time to stay running really bad idle I don’t know what I could mess up 😪
Hi there. I have a problem with n53 - nothing major - engine is struggling while I try to hold a Rpm range somewhere between 800-1200. While I'm doing that Rpms are dropping like 200-300 and up, and so on...
Injectors checked, intake, leaks, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, coils checked. Maf, valve cover replaced (because of age, huge leaks). All parts I'm using are from BMW AG - Chinese are good in phone covers.
Injectors - index 11. No problem there.
Last thing I'll do this week probably - is to replace battery, cause I think is damaged.
While turning on fx - back heating on the windshield - a voltage reading dropping like from 14.5 to 12 for a two three seconds and going back to normal range on idle. Haven't testet battery like professional way yet, but I hope that's will be solution for my Rpm issue.
Anyway I've had few errors stored with few systems - every single one is somehow related to voltage drop to 11 volts sometimes. Car is doing 250 km every....
And some say that BMW IS kind of an electric car - cause of there is no juice in the trunk, car is struggling in any case.
Thanks for video. :)
hey man ..i'm experiencing the same issue ,so are you running with no MAF sensor ?
Unplugging the MAF is masking the problem rather than fixing it.
It proves the cause of the rough running is incorrect air metering, which could be either a faulty MAF (a live diagnostic check should tell you if the values it is giving are within plausible range or not) or unmetered air entering the engine post MAF - Find the leak and then you have the true fix. Running without the MAF is a short term patch-up solution but not a true fix, your car wont pass an MOT in that condition as the EML is on, and I doubt it will pass emissions either.
Mine was quiet, changed water pump and thermostat and now I have a huge studdering and they’re shaking spark plugs now
So just to be clear mass air flow sensor WAS NOT THE PROBLEM RIGHT? since you made another video i assume that you exchanged the mass air flow sensor and the problem was not solved. Please confirm. Thank you!
Correct
good one bro
Thanks 🔥
I have replaced o2 sensor in my 320i n46b20b, and i have again the 2c45 faul code😐, any other ideas for the cause of the error?
I replaced spark plugs too
Hi I replaced a top water hose on my E90 325i 2006 and when I started it up code on dash p1639 throttle body stuck open all I did was remove the maf sensor and airbox to get to the hose as it was seized any ideas
Thanks for Helping us out mate.
No prob bud!
Nice job. Similar issue. I will try the tip. thx.
So I put in a new maf but when i start my car it starts jumping up and down and then stops and is fine right after what is the cause of it jumping when I start it
Have same problem with my 2010 535i n54
This is not a technician, it is a parts replacer.... sorry, but true.
Did you leave it unplugged till you got a new one and did it run fine after the new one?
Watch my other rough running video👍🏻
Uhhhh I doubt the issue is with the MAF sensor. Since the DME requires the MAF sensor for closed loop fueling it will switch to open loop fueling ie. using a map and hoping it’s correct essentially. However it can tell you that the fault lies with a sensor that is involved in the closed loop system.
Watch my updated rough idle fix video👍🏻
I'm going to try it
It mf worked
U should have noticed it once u opened the cap that there was getting to much air inside then went straight to the intake
Ive got half engine shaded engine light on cooper s mini...suffering same symptoms..been off road for a year. Had loads of useless mechanics look at it not one fixed it...turns out may be knock sensor of Maf...a mechanic said injectors may be issue. Why can't these computers just tell us what the exact problem is? Now i know why people just ride bikes
So the problem here was the maf sensor?
I have the same problem with rough idle and bad mileage not good almost stalling or dying changed coils and spark plugs and no longer are all misfiring but now we get a code stating duration spark time is too short on cylinder 4, what does that possibly mean? Not sure of the code itself just what it says it is...
I need some help I have 2008 E93 I'm starting to get cold start shaking. I have replace the plugs coils. But the same. I haven't replaced the injectors. Because right after you start the car after a minute the car runs fine perfect you're shaking.
Quality fix mate
Cheers 😬
Did you buy a new sensor or you kept just driving like that?
Maybe a new one could fix the issue or was it the same with a new sensor? Be nice to know.
The MAF sensor wasn’t the problem
What you able to find out the real cause?
gonna try this just now
I got p115c code which relates to maas air flow sensor? 120d n47
Hi I just my bmw 328i. Is check engine. Light on I replace coils all and spark plugs and same problem. It run hood but check engine is on. The four d si park plug have a little oil but is little oil. Do uou know what can be my codes are 3 codes.
HI bro I have a problem with my N47 engine rough idle what could be the cause pls help me, thanks
My observation was opposite when I unplugged the MAF, it became even worse. I have cleaned Vanos Solenoids but no luck yet. Any other ideas?
Watch my other rough idle video where I fixed the problem
God bless you my friend !!!
George, how much should I pay for ista like the set up you use. I am in the UK. I have an issue with my BMW series 1 2008. I have a crank but no start, came out to it today and it fired up so must be intermittent. Need to see if I have any codes stored. Don't want to get caught out miles from home.
Brilliant videos thankyou... what brought me to these is I have a engine management light on. Purchased Bimmercode and bought an adapter... I have the following codes... first thoughts???
282F00: LAMBDA PROBE, HEATING CONTROL: SHORT CIRCUIT TO GROUND
28D600: AIR MASS METER: SIGNAL INTERRUPTION OR SHORT CIRCUIT TO
POSITIVE / GROUND
24EB00: EGR COOLER BYPASS FLAP, CONTROL: SHORT CIRCUIT TO GROUND
25F200: INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR (REFERENCE SIGNAL FOR AIR MASS
METER): FREQUENCY TOO HIGH
2AA000: THERMAL OIL LEVEL SENSOR, SIGNAL: NO SIGNAL
520D 14 plate.. bought the the gear so I don't get ripped off by a garage but non the wiser now! Any info much appreciated.
Reset codes and see what code come back, one code may trigger more, so best to narrow it down with a reset.
my bmw f10 has rough idle however not always I change the air mass sensor and problem stays . any ideas lads ?
Did replacing MAF sensor helped ..i have the same issue in my car ..
Watch my other rough idle video👍🏻
Good vid once again mate
Cheers mate!
my Volvo does the exact same thing
Will this also work on a 320i n43?
tqsm bro..may god bless you
Great job man! It totally worked on my BMW 328I
Have you watched my latest rough idle video?
@@GeorgeAusters
I check it out!
Low pressure fuel sencer?
I was having rough idle also and shutting down when I’m on a stop or just running the car in parked. And my mechanic said that it could also cause of the vanos solenoid. Because oil was coming into it as well and need a change. Do you think that will also cause a rough idle?
Possibly yes!
@@GeorgeAusters okay thank you. But do you think I could also do what you did to see what the result is
@@GeorgeAusters what about having a late kick on the transmission when I pressed the gas. What could be the problem on that? Thanks
@@markgahol6930 did changing the Vanos fix both of your issues?
@@visuallydesigned no bro, I was having other issues with it
Whats the name of the component
...you didn't scan it??..........
Hi ..I just bought a 2005 X3 the engine is idling kinda rough..what is the name of the issue you found? Mass Air Flow Senser??
After the idle calms the engine still has that kind of ticking noise to it. is that ticking normal? my 2012 528i does a quieter version of this.
I'm in my 2010 528i doing the same thing. Feels like it's going to stall. Did you find out what this is? Ignition coil was just replaced and no change n
My rough idle was apparently from a 65 PSI in cylinder 1. But my car is doing the exact same thing as your car.
Coils and spark plugs are good.
do you have an k&n sport filter inside the aIr box? the one that you just clean? because if u have i have seen a few posts that the oil that is applied on that filter can ruin the maf :(
Yes, never had any issues with them damaging the MAF
Good job man....👍
Cheers man