I only knew one guy who always kept is valves adjusted on his '70 Duster and it was so odd not to hear that sewing machine sound but was so much better. You never knew it had slant in it...
Just found ur channel and subscribed! Love the content and how u explain, ur grandson has to be stoked! Keep the vids coming. I’m gonna do this timing test tomorrow.
gentlemen. Great vids, great smiles! Thank you both for your time w/time… 😂 appreciate all the extra, I’m able to visualize through your detailed stories of explaining on how-to! Peace & Love Michael Hayes (26) Santa Barbara, Ca ‘68 Plymouth V signet 225/6 1B 1920 Holly (all original) Name: La Bamba
Great video John! It's worth mentioning that one should establish that the timing mark when set at zero the #1 piston is indeed at TDC incase the marks have moved or something has been monkeyed with.
Very good point, this is another reason why your timing is yours and nobody else's. With reading the plug it still won't matter cause no timing light is needed but your like me, I want to know accurately and that for sure needs to be checked....Good point!!!
John, what would your input be for the following engine setup: TBI 350 with ported/shaped hybrid vortec heads, 2 inch bore throttle body with spacer and injector pod apacer, and distributor with pertronix dyna mod performance ignition module, what should the initial spark advance timing be set at to maximize performance and economy? By the way, I definitely appreciate and enjoy the videos you've put together with your grandson's help. The knowledge and wisdom gained from watching the procedure you meticulously show so everyone can do this with their own vehicles is phenomenal with a capital PH. God's blessings to you and yours. ~Matthew
GREAT video, I have not seen it explain this way before. I have a question, when you disconnect your vacuum hose do you have to plug the carburetor port during this process? Or do you just leave it off so that it is sucking vacuum while you are messing with your timing?
Very informative video. Something I may try on my 79 camaro 305. I do get pinging at times but I know its the vacuum advance. Nothing at WOT and at idle but at higher rpm the vac advance+total is too much. Will have to get a limiter or just weld up the slot some I suppose. Dont remember the total timing but I know at base its 10* total if I remember right is somewhere in the high 20s. New distributor with stock curve kit.
Look for your vac advance is hex on the end. If it is you can stick a alan wrench down the vacuum nipple and adjust spring tension to slow the vacuum advance. Its in the next vid ....thanks for watching
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 yes I've tried but to no avail. Ill still watch the next one to catch any extra knowledge though! Even tried an accel adjustable vacuum canister (but was still rated at 20* advance)
@talljohnsfunshop2722 I'm set my timing to 15 before top dead center, I'm. I'm amazed how great the truck runs And better gas mileage. I was at 8 degrees I have a 1974, toyota f j 40. I'm planning to buy a knock sensor gauge still dialing it in.thanks for the video 👍
I have a circle track 360 2bbl. premium or race gas allowed. I will set the initial at what the cam needs to idle & the total at maybe 34 what RPM should I have the springs max out at? thank you for your time.
I would have it in NO later then 2200. If you haven't watched the art of springs vid please do. Pay particular attention about the heavy spring with the loop on one end. It's explained towards the end of the vid. It's for restricted motors.
Hello John im interested in knowing how did you wire up that knock detector to the sensor on the side of that engine block? I kept rewinding to try & see but the camera was still moving too fast...
hello john thanks for sharing the information and experience. but I'm not into racing but I would be interested in performance, fuel economy for example I have a 76 year ford 250 with a 360 engine and a friend a dogde truck with a 318 engine of bad reputation in racing but I think it's very good I could say that as good as Chevrolet but as what I want is the efficiency for the fuel costs to roll more in these old cars that a cam, chain timing system is recommended to one of gear like competition cams, the mildon 14900, one with a strap like the jeel of these, the mildon seems better to me. and how important is the timing of cam and distributor; and the current and ignition msd or similar in this I see that the test vehicle has its original dogde module and what you recommended is to put a switch to cut the power from the alternator and give current without resistance to the battery coil and For this, the original carburetor can be kept, which would give us the best price performance. Thanks in advance for the videos and I hope you can answer on this topic. Sorry for the translation, I don't have good English.
So the silver lining here is that although the Ol’ 360 has been detonating to death, it’s simultaneously been increasing the size of the combustion chamber which equals HORSEPOWER!! 😂
Most engine can take advantage of full time vacuum but the stocker the cam is the less advantage there is. Engine with large carburetors take very little throttle to get to speeds up to 45 or so and the throttle never gets to the ported orifice so it helps there to. Some times you'll get a slight hesitation off idle with full time so ported might be better in that case. But I would suggest that you try it it won't hurt anything if you do and see if it works for you.
hola john gracias por compartir la información y experiencia. pero no estoy en las carreras pero si me interesaría el rendimiento la economía en gasolina por ejemplo tengo un ford 250 año 76 con motor 360 y un amigo una camioneta dogde con un 318 motor de mala reputación en las carreras pero pienso que es muy bueno pudiera decir que tan bueno como Chevrolet pero como lo que quiero es la eficiencia por los costo del combustible para rodar mas en estos carros viejos que se recomienda una leva, sistema de sincronización de cadena a uno de engranaje como competition cams , el mildon 14900, uno de correa como el jesel de estos me parece mejor el mildon. y que tan importante es la sincronización de leva y distribuidor; y la corriente y los encendido msd o parecido en este veo que al vehículo de prueba le tienes su modulo dogde original y lo que recomendaste es poner un interruptor para cortar la energía del alternador y darle corriente sin la resistencia a la bobina de la batería y para esto se puede conservar el carburador original que seria lo que nos daría mejor rendimiento precio. Gracias de antemano por los videos y espero que puedas responder sobre este tema. disculpa la traducción no tengo buen ingles.
I can't think of anything related to your timing that would cause a smell. Catalytic converters have a rotten egg smell when to rich but other then that I'm not sure.
If you know or can find out the diameter of the harmonic balancer on your engine you can Google the measurement for the amount of degrees that you want to mark on the balancer. Before I found that out I would either measure 10° or whatever off of the timing tab to figure out the measurement that I wanted to mark on the balancer. Another way is to put a piece of masking tape on the timing tab and rub it down hard on the tab with your semi-dirty finger to put the imprint on the masking tape to use to make measurement for the balancer. I usually bump the motor over to access the area on the balancer that I want to mark from undernieth the car. Also, what I usually do is mark with white paint the TDC mark and 35 and 40° marks as my references. If I know my 35° and 40° points (most of the stuff that I'm involved with) I can adjust from there.
I should also have mentioned that I want to be confident that the timing marks are correct on an engine before I spend time working on it. You have no idea how many people will install engines with incorrect timing marks, timing chain covers with marks that don't correspond with the balancers, etc. and even no timing tabs at all! Dang. For assurance I will use a small screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole to feel the piston as an assistant moves the crankshaft for me. If no timing tab or completely mismatched balancer & tab it's more complicated and I really get aggravated that someone would be so dumb. It's usually due to cheap chromie parts- ooooh, pretty😵💫
I love Jacob's gestures! He cracks me up! Good kid! He's gonna go far!
I only knew one guy who always kept is valves adjusted on his '70 Duster and it was so odd not to hear that sewing machine sound but was so much better. You never knew it had slant
in it...
Thank you for making this video, it definitely helps understanding how to tune our old engines 👍.
Love your videos
Just found ur channel and subscribed! Love the content and how u explain, ur grandson has to be stoked! Keep the vids coming. I’m gonna do this timing test tomorrow.
Great channel Sir.
That's one fine boy you got there !!!
All the best to you and yours Sir.
gentlemen. Great vids, great smiles! Thank you both for your time w/time… 😂 appreciate all the extra, I’m able to visualize through your detailed stories of explaining on how-to! Peace & Love
Michael Hayes (26)
Santa Barbara, Ca
‘68 Plymouth V signet 225/6
1B 1920 Holly (all original)
Name: La Bamba
Great video John! It's worth mentioning that one should establish that the timing mark when set at zero the #1 piston is indeed at TDC incase the marks have moved or something has been monkeyed with.
Very good point, this is another reason why your timing is yours and nobody else's. With reading the plug it still won't matter cause no timing light is needed but your like me, I want to know accurately and that for sure needs to be checked....Good point!!!
Great video and explanation. I know of several who can benefit!
dont we both lol
Thank you Sr. Really usefull! Jason, your Granpa is genius. Try to learn
John, what would your input be for the following engine setup: TBI 350 with ported/shaped hybrid vortec heads, 2 inch bore throttle body with spacer and injector pod apacer, and distributor with pertronix dyna mod performance ignition module, what should the initial spark advance timing be set at to maximize performance and economy? By the way, I definitely appreciate and enjoy the videos you've put together with your grandson's help. The knowledge and wisdom gained from watching the procedure you meticulously show so everyone can do this with their own vehicles is phenomenal with a capital PH. God's blessings to you and yours.
~Matthew
Hey Mathew, I couldn't really say were should be, but I would start somewhere around 32 total and 15 initial.
Another great video! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks My next project
GREAT video, I have not seen it explain this way before. I have a question, when you disconnect your vacuum hose do you have to plug the carburetor port during this process? Or do you just leave it off so that it is sucking vacuum while you are messing with your timing?
I don't plug the hose, I just make sure that it can't pickup dirt or get into belt or something like that.
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 good to know thank you
Very informative video. Something I may try on my 79 camaro 305. I do get pinging at times but I know its the vacuum advance. Nothing at WOT and at idle but at higher rpm the vac advance+total is too much. Will have to get a limiter or just weld up the slot some I suppose. Dont remember the total timing but I know at base its 10* total if I remember right is somewhere in the high 20s. New distributor with stock curve kit.
Look for your vac advance is hex on the end. If it is you can stick a alan wrench down the vacuum nipple and adjust spring tension to slow the vacuum advance. Its in the next vid ....thanks for watching
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 yes I've tried but to no avail. Ill still watch the next one to catch any extra knowledge though! Even tried an accel adjustable vacuum canister (but was still rated at 20* advance)
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for watching
@talljohnsfunshop2722 I'm set my timing to 15 before top dead center, I'm. I'm amazed how great the truck runs And better gas mileage. I was at 8 degrees I have a 1974, toyota f j 40. I'm planning to buy a knock sensor gauge still dialing it in.thanks for the video 👍
I have a circle track 360 2bbl. premium or race gas allowed. I will set the initial at what the cam needs to idle & the total at maybe 34 what RPM should I have the springs max out at? thank you for your time.
I would have it in NO later then 2200. If you haven't watched the art of springs vid please do. Pay particular attention about the heavy spring with the loop on one end. It's explained towards the end of the vid. It's for restricted motors.
Hello John im interested in knowing how did you wire up that knock detector to the sensor on the side of that engine block? I kept rewinding to try & see but the camera was still moving too fast...
I will have to double check to be sure I'll get back to ya
hello john thanks for sharing the information and experience. but I'm not into racing but I would be interested in performance, fuel economy for example I have a 76 year ford 250 with a 360 engine and a friend a dogde truck with a 318 engine of bad reputation in racing but I think it's very good I could say that as good as Chevrolet but as what I want is the efficiency for the fuel costs to roll more in these old cars that a cam, chain timing system is recommended to one of gear like competition cams, the mildon 14900, one with a strap like the jeel of these, the mildon seems better to me. and how important is the timing of cam and distributor; and the current and ignition msd or similar in this I see that the test vehicle has its original dogde module and what you recommended is to put a switch to cut the power from the alternator and give current without resistance to the battery coil and For this, the original carburetor can be kept, which would give us the best price performance. Thanks in advance for the videos and I hope you can answer on this topic. Sorry for the translation, I don't have good English.
Hi I'm not sure what your asking ...I'm willing to help so let work together. Please ask again
So the silver lining here is that although the Ol’ 360 has been detonating to death, it’s simultaneously been increasing the size of the combustion chamber which equals HORSEPOWER!! 😂
Ahhhhhhhhhhhh no
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 hahaha😆
If timing is trying to make the engine run backwards, that is not horsepower.
Try setting your timing to 0 and let me know about your horsepower results
John does the shielding have to be grounded to use the gm sensor?
Yes
Big debate John... Manifold or ported? stockish engine 350 chevy
Most engine can take advantage of full time vacuum but the stocker the cam is the less advantage there is. Engine with large carburetors take very little throttle to get to speeds up to 45 or so and the throttle never gets to the ported orifice so it helps there to. Some times you'll get a slight hesitation off idle with full time so ported might be better in that case. But I would suggest that you try it it won't hurt anything if you do and see if it works for you.
I really appreciate ur knowledge thanks for getting back to me..
hola john gracias por compartir la información y experiencia. pero no estoy en las carreras pero si me interesaría el rendimiento la economía en gasolina por ejemplo tengo un ford 250 año 76 con motor 360 y un amigo una camioneta dogde con un 318 motor de mala reputación en las carreras pero pienso que es muy bueno pudiera decir que tan bueno como Chevrolet pero como lo que quiero es la eficiencia por los costo del combustible para rodar mas en estos carros viejos que se recomienda una leva, sistema de sincronización de cadena a uno de engranaje como competition cams , el mildon 14900, uno de correa como el jesel de estos me parece mejor el mildon. y que tan importante es la sincronización de leva y distribuidor; y la corriente y los encendido msd o parecido en este veo que al vehículo de prueba le tienes su modulo dogde original y lo que recomendaste es poner un interruptor para cortar la energía del alternador y darle corriente sin la resistencia a la bobina de la batería y para esto se puede conservar el carburador original que seria lo que nos daría mejor rendimiento precio. Gracias de antemano por los videos y espero que puedas responder sobre este tema. disculpa la traducción no tengo buen ingles.
Can't read Spanish
Good information. Can you provide the name and model number on that knock sensor?
I want to install it on my car.
Thank you sir.
The monitor is from ebay look up klopfsensor and you will find it. The sensor in the block I got from a 1999 gmc pickup in the wrecking yard.
the TC is 3500 stall.
Can I use the inductive timing light?
Yes
Also i have 12 initial 36 total but when i get on it and the idle it smells bad like amonia. sharp smell and i have no idea. Any ideas? thanks
I can't think of anything related to your timing that would cause a smell. Catalytic converters have a rotten egg smell when to rich but other then that I'm not sure.
Theres no cat on it duels all the way back
@Rob if I think of something I'll let you know
I have the davis unified distributor
hei in it
Blowby from worn rings/cylinders maybe?
Tall John I like you're channel, but you need better microphones.
Working on it just got 2 new ones I'm going to try. Thanks for the input
My car has up to 20 degrees max mark only. By the way you forgot to plug the hose.
Saint I don't plug the hose. It's not needed. Just don't lay it in dirt to pick it up
If you know or can find out the diameter of the harmonic balancer on your engine you can Google the measurement for the amount of degrees that you want to mark on the balancer. Before I found that out I would either measure 10° or whatever off of the timing tab to figure out the measurement that I wanted to mark on the balancer. Another way is to put a piece of masking tape on the timing tab and rub it down hard on the tab with your semi-dirty finger to put the imprint on the masking tape to use to make measurement for the balancer. I usually bump the motor over to access the area on the balancer that I want to mark from undernieth the car. Also, what I usually do is mark with white paint the TDC mark and 35 and 40° marks as my references. If I know my 35° and 40° points (most of the stuff that I'm involved with) I can adjust from there.
I should also have mentioned that I want to be confident that the timing marks are correct on an engine before I spend time working on it. You have no idea how many people will install engines with incorrect timing marks, timing chain covers with marks that don't correspond with the balancers, etc. and even no timing tabs at all! Dang. For assurance I will use a small screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole to feel the piston as an assistant moves the crankshaft for me. If no timing tab or completely mismatched balancer & tab it's more complicated and I really get aggravated that someone would be so dumb. It's usually due to cheap chromie parts- ooooh, pretty😵💫
All good points