A simple shocking speed secret, recurving a distributor for performance and gas mileage
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- Опубликовано: 8 май 2020
- Jacob and I demonstrate the distributor machine and fine tune a mopar distributor for both high performance use and gas mileage. We go from junk to driveablity, with power and mileage in twenty minutes. If you haven't done this, your in for a surprise in performance.
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I love how the kid doesn't even know it but one day he is going to miss this and reach back into time and smile because he had someone to count on and look up to your doing a great job guys
Great video. And great to see you educating the young ones
Hope you and the family are doing well! Love your videos, keep up all the hard work and be safe! - Devin
Man the memories! Ed had one of those Sun Machines at his GRAND SPEED SHOP back in the 70s. He was the guy to see to get your distributor set up! Great video!
Just spending time with your son is priceless
Super. I was just given one of these machines, and now understand how to use it. Thank you.
Too cool, I've never seen a distributor machine in my life and today I've seen one here and one on ColdWarMotors.
I'm excited to see another collaboration of you and Lam! I have one old points distributor for the Dart, and the same for my old Chevy heap so it's definitely helpful.
Ary it's that love of tools and machines for us I guess, when I see something new my reaction is the same...Too cool thanks for watching
Hey Jacob, Tall John. Great video!!! Stay healthy, be well....
Great video John! The information is great, the distributor tester is cool and your son is an awesome helper!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Mr Will 👍
I never saw that machine B4. So simple a child could operate it.
You're like me and talk too much but there is a pearl or two in all of those words so I listened to every second. That is one of the coolest machines ever. I never got to use one but I've seen a few. I have a 1964 Pontiac 389 and you are so right about the dwell adjustment window. I love it! I have some other old cars but nothing comes close to setting dwell in a few seconds with an allen key instead of futzzn around with a screwdriver and hoping. Great work here Sir! Bobby
Excellent tech & cool teaching the young man about something most don't remember anymore. The distributor machine. Looks like you've got a nice one (I'd buy it from ya !). The last Sun distributor machine i saw like that was in a junkyard here in North Alabama that also was home base for us local oval track racers. I watched many of mine & others distributors get "dialed in" like you're doing.
Circle track is were I started from myself, awesome place to learn. Sorry machine is not for sale. Me likes it to much
Super cool. I was a chemical engineer but I really love working on pre war race cars and repairing magnetos. I wish you were near Pa because I would love to bring a new magneto to market and you would be a great partner. I am glad you came up in my feed...
I think he is ready to take your place. Smart man.
Hi, I want to say this right: I learn a lot from your main topic points. I almost learn as much on your videos from some of the side comments or things you throw out there (literally in this case). LOL Thanks! 😎 New sub!
Hi guys! Super cool video , hope you all are staying safe!
Hey if you look carefully on the left of the tester there's a Pontiac distributor that belongs to you
Somewhere theres a third grade class missing a pencil sharpener
You're overlooking the best hotrod hack there is!! Take the distributor and toss it in the trash!! Add glow plugs, badda bing, badda bip!! Pure enjoyment!!
You should do a video on that
very good info right there, just subbed brother
Thanks for the sub!
Quisiera que fuera traducido en español es muy importante
Give these two the father and son of forever award. I didn't just learn a few tricks I found how much it hurts my daughter was kidnapped by her mom in 08 and I haven't seen or heard since. I always wanted to do things like this with her.
Carry on with all the coolness of tweaking machines. Way cool video. I have watched it a couple times as I am trying to get my ignition corrected in my 1983 McQuaide special RamCharger. Me and my RC.
Hi Joe. First I want to say im sorry about your daughter, I cant imagine the pain. I hope someday it gets worked out for you. Thanks for the kind words.I showed this to the owner of the ramcharger and he was moved by your comment. His X took the kids from him but he has it worked out now as it was many years ago and the kids are all grow up. His new saying now is ME AND MY RC. Ask questions if you need help with your ignition it does get confusing some times. good luck
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 Thanks for the response it felt like someone can understand the pain. Empathy never goes out of style.
Yep thought I would get all wiz bang fancy and do the one wire GM HEI thing. What junk that is. So I just dropped a dime on a new Mopar ignition with the blue box. Oops should have gone orange.
What does confuse me is the boxes. Black is stock, orange is 5,000 RPM rev limited, blue is 7,500 RPM limited. I got the blue box and now I see my mistake. I should have gone with the orange box. Blue was $5.00 more.
So what I am trying for is building a bullet proof 360 Magnum into a 400 or 408 stroker. LA and Magnums have thin walls. I am looking for 0.100 over pistons unless the block I find in the junk yard still has cross hatch in the bores. If I find that I will have it cleaned up and go with stoke bore pistons 4.000
I am going to run a scat cast crank. I feel its fine as a buddy is hitting 9,000 rpm with his stock crank. I will never take an engine that far. Scat forged rods, haven't made a choice with pistons or cam yet. Those must balance each other out. I do know I am not going with forged pistons, too expensive and I am building a naturally aspirated engine. If anything goes against your wisdom say so I am humble to hear good information that comes from experienced people.
Now its math time. The problem looks like this.
Stroke X RPM divided by 6 = X Feet Per Minute piston speed. I am going with a 4.0" stroke and don't plan on 6,000 RPM
4.00 X 6,000 = 2,400 divided by 6 = 4000. Exceeding 4,000 FPM piston speed is only for the special engines.
So the Orange box would have been just fine. You want to stay below 4,000 Feet Per Minute with almost any engine. Unless you do some modifications to the rotating assembly.
Being how I am putting this engine in my 1983 RC and its going to be a daily driver. I see no need to break the block. Also its a truck not a drag car, my 1968 Coronet 440 was the drag car (rest in peace). 750RPM is about close to normal idle. Most of my driving will be in the 1,000 RPM to 5,000 RPM range. Off road I want all the grunt I can get. So I am chasing Torque not so much horsepower.
Because I will be off road in the 1500 to 3500 rpm range.
My girlfriend wonders why its not done yet. She does not understand how much thought can go into engine building. Especially on a budget. Took me two years to build my Harley twin cam and I will say its the fastest under 100 CI Harley in Tucson Arizona.
Bet my money on it. How and why? I took a Harley builders book to Iraq with me and studied it everyday. Each part compliments another part and everything is a symphony of sound and speed.
You won't believe the deal I got. 1983 RC and I am 4th owner. It was grandpas, then dads, then sons. Son was into parts for his 2015 Cheby pickup truck. So I drove away with it for $1,500.00. Serious everything worked even the lean burn was attached, that went to the dump. No wrecks body is straight original paint, no cancer (rust). The rear bumper is a touch off so it did hit something but you really have to look at it.
Build list so far.
Scat 4.00" stroker crank
Scat forged I beam rods
S.A. double roller timing change with 9 point adjustment 0 4 advanced 4 retarded. i have never played that far with cams. I know NO2 tunnel rams like to be retarded.
360 magnum block
EQ heads I am going to have 2.02 valve put into, springs, locks, valves to match up the cam
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, unless something is better in the same price range.
Carter AFB 625, yes I said Carter. They are becoming scarce
Mopar ignition, proform distributor, blue box etc. Down the line I want to go D.U.I. but it has to use a similar sized distributor. Why mother Mopar didn't put the distributor in the same location as RB BB engines is beyond me. Firewall gets in the way.
A727 with mutt parts out of a 48, shift kit all that.
208 xnsfer case
Found a Dana 60 super low miles with 4.10 gears. I found I really like that ratio a whole bunch. Its good for city driving and off road.
Never going to push over BFG 35's. I have 31's right now on a stock suspension and they do just fine in my book.
I want to go camping where only $X$'s can go. I hate RV people and their damn generators running all night. Rather camp next to teenagers having a kegger (if teenagers even know what a keg is anymore).
Plus the fun factor. In Tucson I have seen on the road 2 other RC's. I have a friend who owns one and I have 2, runner and parts. That is 5 in Tucson I know of. Seen more Lambos and Ferarri's.
The electrical sucks, and that goes for every American made auto from the 70's and 80's so I am saving up for the painless kit.
My interior is pretty cool. I pulled the carpet, belts and seats. Had it Line-X'd. Muddy boots and spilled coffee have no chance.
I am a gear head through and through. A&P mechanic. Stepdad was a ASE master tech for Chrysler and at age 7 I was handing him tools(learning tool names and uses). Here is the list of autos I have owned
1956 Ford F-100 ( my great uncle bought it new, my mom sold it when I was in the Army....UGH)
1974 Dodge Colt station wagon (starter car)
1968 Coronet 440 (T-boned by a drunk)
1966 Barracuda S-sport 273 HO 4 speed (its in Australia now)
1973 W200 Power Wagon (I miss Clifford)
2000 Harley Davidson Dyna Super Glide (My mistress Bullet)
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 custom ordered while I was in Iraq and its rare. Hemi, 5 speed, 4.10 gears, carpet delete, power anything delete except steering and brakes, off road package minus wheels, tires and stickers. Two things I wanted but they would not include from the factory the center console with storage and fog lights. Named it him Bubba and he is no joke.
2006 Nissan X-Terra
1983 RC and still haven't named it.
1989 RC for parts. named it donations.
4,000RPM all day with a 4" stroke 360. This guy right here is another engine master like you and I. He has some very well put together videos. Check him out.
Good day friend
ruclips.net/video/Vy2r3p-SOag/видео.html
@Joe Schmalzel summit sells the orange box for about 27 dollar and tax. early not sure of the years but i believe 1970-74 360 LA blocks will take a easy .080 over bore and the rest including magnum will take easily .040 over early 318s with poly heads can handle .100 over bore but they start at 3.91 bore standard.
The scat cranks are excellent pieces. i have friends that rev them 7000 regardless of piston speed all day so your good there
as far as rods go factory 360 rod are great and would handle your build no problem but if your going to have them sized your going to need better rod bolts if the rev gets more 6000 and by the time you get the price of that work the scat rod are stronger for only few more dollars.
im with you on the pistons about forged. I use hypereutectic pistons and money is one reason but i like better that they are fitted tighter in the bore cause they dont grow as much from the heat so they last longer and they have better ring control.and if you want to you could relay wing them, there strong
when it comes to cams im a hydraulic roller guy for under 6000 rpm use and on the street. there expensive but they will give performance with economy and sound reduction less maintenance for a daily driver for a life time.
the rest of the build is great i think and i complement you on the carb especially the size...wise choice on brand and size.
I didnt see headers in the build. I always use long tube if i go with headers cause its not the flow its the scavenge that counts
i agree on the dist location. thank god for electronic so you can adjust it and leave it alone.
what a great deal on your RC
I see some cars in that line up that i like alot.
thanks for the hook up on the youtube channel, Iwatch a few of his vids in the past and found no flaws in his info, good guy well good type chattin here keep me updated on your build
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 Hooker headers into flowmasters. I have new cats and new pipes not hung well. I have a shop in tucson that does mostly high end hot rods for a good price. I want to give them the cats as a part trade on their work. If l walk away spending $200 i am good. 0.010 to clean it up is good. 0.020 over and that's better by me.
Out of this build l want 400/450 ish in hp and tq.
the equasion is stroke X desired rpm( I said 7,000) divided by 6 and the number should fall under 4000 feet per minute. I have it.
4.0 x 6,000(my red line given) 24,000 divided by 6. lands right on top at 4,000 FPM. Bravo.
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 I have the scat cast crank and scat forged rods with ARP bolts. I will run ARP bolts on everything dealing with stress. Rods, Main caps, Heads etc.
I am going to weigh each rod and each piston. Heaviest piston goes to lightest rod and lightest piston to heaviest rod. I can shave some grams if I have to. I just want the up down stuff all at the closest same weight.
J&E, Weisco or KB I trust for pistons. My dream piston would be a J&E Hyper at 0.20 over with valve reliefs and set up for 10-1 or 10.5-1 Compression. Premium is fine with me.
Its a RamCharger not a Charger. No drag strip unless for fun. I want a stout daily that when I turn hubs to lock I can go where I want to. Preferably far away from RV's and their generators.
Love to see how you dialed in your carb on that baricuda , maybe a video someday?
Hey Bob o , I might do a vid some day on it as i want to do a follow up on some carb things. As far as my barracuda carb goes i set the float level about a 1/32 higher than stock. (Most carb kit come with a paper gauge to check float level), the idle mixture screw is about 1 and 1/4 turns out. But this is different then most because of the altitude cam and distributor. I also change the jet 2 sizes bigger then stock and my mileage actually went up. And performance was wow and a slight hesitation went away.I think it was a 52 jet and I went to 54.this might help you but I have a different cam and it was another wow in how it ran. As far as working on you distributor I would love to help but my distributor machine went down about a week ago and I'm waiting on parts. If it get repaired anytime soon I will check with you and see if you still need help. But it is a really a easy job. Good luck and thanks for the comments, feel free to ask away
Good informative video.
Nice machine!
I sure wish there was someone like around my are I could take my old 400 big block distributor to and have it set up.
Nice!!👍👍
Very cool. Wish I had that
Interesting stuff.👍🏾
Like you said all you need is a justable timing light rivet to about 3 Grand and that should be your maximum mechanical timing without any vacuum
love you Sir .
Looks like the Sun machine from HS shop class.
That's what you call,
"Taking Advantage of your Distributor",
so you can be "on time",
on your next Date!
Lol that'll work
Chased this video down John after the live chat today... pretty interesting... I see you tweeked the thin spring but did you replace a spring on the other side? As mentioned today I have an MSD dizzy thats locked Im trying to get back to mechanical advance as I have exactly the issue you mentioned..It kicks back like a mofo sometimes..and Im pretty sure the mechanical advance parts have been removed , so it sucks to be me...Ill go and check out some of your others too and look forward to a chat with you again some time. Also kudos for teaching the young man ...we are definitely running short of knowledge in our youngens
Hey thanks for the kind words.no I did not replace the spring. 1 spring should do the job to bring back the advance to initial when the engine stops. On the MSD distributor they are usually a gm type advance with a ford type magnetic pickup which is awesome. But if you leave a spring out make sure the weight is secured with a E clip or something like that. Normally the spring does that but I have seen were retainers were already there. It was nice hangin out with y'all and looking forward to it again.
YOU ARE DOING RIGHT BY THAT BOY.
I remember those; from over 40 years ago.
Jacob's a neat kid.
Just five years ago I was the kid and you were my dad. Thank you. On a second note why did the centrifugal advance drop down to 12 when you only took the one spring out?
Taking out the spring allows for full advance at a lower rpm stretching the spring will not pull the weights all the way back so the curve starts were the spring pulls it back and still stops at the all out position making the initial timing higher but the total the same.
He's adorable :) my real reason for subscribing :)
Good Onya Jacob good Onya Tall John that’s a great video...
Here in Australia if you were tall and your name was John we wouldn’t call you Tall John we would call you “Shorty” .......and if you had red hair we’d call you “bluey”..... and if a fella was chubby we’d call him “Slim”.....
Keep on teaching the lost art Tall John..... good on ya..!!!!!!
Thanks what's funny about Tall john is I've always had people call me shorty or too small. But when I'm dealing with folks and say hi its shorty on the phone they say who... Thats why I adopted tall john, and no more confusion. Still makes me laugh though...Bluey
Tall John's Fun Shop Yes “bluey” is also a common name for a farmer’s dog on Account of “blue healers” being the preferred breed for sheep dogs on stations....... but it’s a nickname for people as well....!!!!
Ty Sir and Son , Never have seen this done before kinda understand it but its been eons since i timed a motor . The carb adjustment u showed at the race track can you plz do a vide on that , more info plz , Bless you all and i subbed also ty :)
Thanks for the sub, I think you're talking about the Weber plates, yes I will be doing a vid on those. If that's what you're talking about keep your eyes open for these things at the car swaps there getting hard to find and they are so easy to use. 👍
Tall John's Fun Shop appreciate it John. 👍
Hi there! Thanks for this! Made my dodge run great! Woke it right up. I just have this little surge now at steady idle. 45 mph or 60mph just seems to surge a little. Any ideas on what that could be?
Hi Collette try disconnecting vacuum advance and see if that help. If so then you need t work with the dash pot and limit how far it can move
Hey John, love the video. I have a Mallory Dual Point YL for 383 Mopar. Can I take out 1 of the springs to advance it faster too. If so which one. Thanks
Yes you can I always take out the biggest 1 no matter. Those were the best distributors of the day. Some distributors if you take out the spring require a E ring to retain the centrifugal weight so double check that.
"Fire up like fuel injection"
No! I don't want to have to wait for the engine to do two full rotations before it fires!
Where do I find the recommended mechanical, advanced and vacuum timing figures. Thank you for the information shared?
Hi Kim Wattage there are no recommended timing settings for any engine. There may be some good educated guessing. If the engine is large cubic inch v8 the timing would be higher then low cube v8s. If the compression is lower (not compression ratio but compression pressure), the timing can go higher. The type of fuel you use affects it also. Most of the time most street engines end up between 32 and 35 degrees total mechanical advance. I like my initial timing to be from 15 to 25. This is always set to were the engine when hot doesn't struggle to start but 2 more degrees it would. I am working on a video that covers this very subject but it a few weeks away because of work and racing. Remember to much timing is dangerous but too low leave power and economy on the table. The point is error on low timing side. I know its kinda wishy-washy but every engine is different and just about everything effects timing.
What is the exact timing of intake manipold vaccum if the standard timing is 10 dgrees b4 top drad center?
You do any work by mail? Love to send you a distributor and 1920 holley to dial in. Carb need rebuild, distributor would be new nos electronic I just bought but probably needs recurved. If not I better watch this video a few more times to really understand what I need to do
Loving the slant content. Just got into slants and motors in general not too long ago and I didn't pick it up right away that advancing the timing means moving further away from TDC towards BTDC.
I've had a pertronix distributer with MSD 6A, running 5-10 deg ATDC, trying to hunt down why it's overheating. Going to try to retard the timing to 5-10 BTDC for initial and see if that helps the heat issue.
Hey Justin I was confused at first but if I'm reading this right you are correct. Advance is firing the cylinder before the piston gets to TDC. advancing the engine usually runs the engine cooler because all the heat energy is used on the piston and not burning in the exhaust port were the heat is transferred to the coolant in the head. Also more power is achieved and less throttle is needed to maintain a crouseing speed therefore developing less heat. Buy the way I love that combination... pertronics with 6a box.
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 Confusion understandable. I always thought advancing meant adjusting towards ATDC all the time. Meanwhile I'm fouling spark plugs, overheating, can't get a handle it seems.
I would also note I'm running holley super sniper as well so I have all kinds of variables and failure points now lol.
Yep lots of variables. My advice to anyone tuning a carburetor is get the timing correct first. I would say the same here. That sniper has a good reputation. I've never installed one, so good luck
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 Great advice. Wish I had started there before replacing thermostat, water pump, belt, coolant, and oil. Live and learn.
I'll keep you posted once she's stable but I'm having a blast installing it. Replaced and updated the whole wiring harness first so that definitely helped. I think any future projects will always start with wiring and confirming good grounds.
Thats great advice to yourself forsure 👌 grounds are the most overlooked electronic thing on any car... I love doing things like that so please do keep me informed
Hey John, do you put the little spring clip in the center back in, or do you leave it out ?
It must go back in
Great video! I plan on doing my straight 6 in my '77 Jeep CJ. It has 35" tires and is a real tired dog off the line. Any tips?
Many times on the older vehicles i find that mid to late 70s and early 80s that the cam timing is retarded about 4 to 8 degrees. Then you add that the timing chain is old and stretched out and the cam sprocket is made out of nylon and is ready to break. So I would look into that. Getting your initial timing up will help a ton. But be careful not to ping it, thats never good. Working those things has very successful for me.
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 That makes perfect sense I will definitely put a new timing said in there cause I have no idea what it would’ve been done last if it ever was. Then I’ll move onto freshening up the distributor.
Do you have a video on ignition timing? I'm still confused on initial and total timing because my SUV has only a maximum count of 20 degrees, and they are talking about 34-36 degrees btdc total.
There is a Playlist with the different timing and how to figure for your engine. There are 3 that hit the subject of were timing needs to be
when I bought my mopar performance electronic distributor from mancini racing it was supposed to be a drop in set timing . I did that but it was lacking power . sent to distributor joe on facebook that has the same machine as you . he found out not only was the distributor filty inside but the bushings tolerances where off and the advance was in the 40s . I gave him a complete run down of what has been done to the truck including thw mildly built 318 and gears and cam. the cam is basically a factory hipo 340 cam . he rebuilt my distributor and the distributor is all in by 36 ° at 3000 rpm . sound correct ? I run the vaccum adavance on the timed port on the edlebrock 600 I have . I also found out I had around 18 vaccum off the intake at idle and bought an edelbrock tuning kit and divided the 18 and matched up the colored metering rod springs # closest to my divided number = 9 made a big improvement.
I have dealt with Mancini a couple times in the past and thats enough of that. Was this a mopar kit or a Mancini recurve? The new numbers sound good. I do mine way earlier all in at 1500-1700. For a manual 2000-2200 for automatic. But were your at works in my book
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 it was an actual mopar performance racing distributor with " performance curve" and had an adjustable vaccum canister that you could use an Allen wrench inside the vaccum port think 11/32 ? joe uses NOS mopar parts and got rid of the junk canister when he rebuilt / modified my distributor
Very different car but same principle, a 1275 MG Metro with same mods and a after market electronic points in distributor.
My question is, the specs for this distributor are 32 degrees all in at 4000rpm do you think I need to recurve with lighter springs to give a more responsive throttle.
Thanks for sharing 👍
absolutely it should be in no later the 2000 rpm and response will definitely improve so will the economy
Great, refresher! I wish I had a distributor tester! But, don't they make spring kits anymore, and different weights??? I have replacement springs so I can switch 'em around! THNX! I want your pencil sharpener for my collection too^___^
They do sell different weights and springs but I wanted to show it can be done with out spending any money just time to get it done. Whats funny about the pencil sharpener is I kept bumping it and knocking the thing so I put the hopper part off to the side and noticed after posting the video, good eye
Check with 4secondsflat.com and you can get a set of springs and a limiter plate to limit the amount of advance. They're kind of pricey though.
@@JoeyGarcia Thank You!
The bearings on that machine are talking to you.
Igniter vs Points distributor vs HEI
I have a 1990 Lincoln Town with the Windsor V8. Looking for tune-up advice, how to get the best fuel efficiency. upgrading does sound like less maintenance but questioning ROI Return On Investment? btw the car has sat for 8 years and running well on warm days. but if I don't let it warm up 20* F or colder and try to drive off after 10 min it seems rough until it gets to operating temp. also after 45 to 1hr idle to op temp. it will kill the motor most of the time when I change gears R or D. I haven't noticed during warmer days dying during gear change but I have only had it for three weeks.
Hi John the ignition on that model is integrated in to the engine computer. This limits alot of what you can do.you can abvace the timing 5 to 10 degrees depending on the fuel you use and that will help. Headers will help but only very slightly but my guess for that car they might have to be custom and that would be very expensive. A cam change might help. I would advance the cam first atleast 4 degrees. The engine that came in that car is basically the same as the 5.0 mustangs so I would check out what those guys are doing for economy. As far as the engine running condition you have, I would recommend looking into the coolant sensor for the computer. There is a sensor for the gauge ( with 1 wire) not that one. There is a 2 wire sensor for the computer yes that one. It is what would tell the computer how to manage cold starts and if it's value is off you will have cold running issues till the engine gets to 160 degrees which is when it goes into closed loop and uses all the sensors to manage the engines performance. Well good luck with it those were excellent in the day. One more thing, as far as points or HEI, I would recommend HEI
So for the quicker advance, you used only the 1 spring in the distributor ?
Yes but it's also stretched, the little spring will allow some low rpm advance the big spring, most of them have a oval shaped loop on one end but once there it take 4000 rpm or higher to change and you want all advance in by atleast max torque rpm. Probably 2500 in many cases so we just throw the big spring out.
Great videos and info. Are you using the Chrysler ignition module as a pulse amplifier?If so, how have you wired it? I am just getting started with a Sun 500 Distributor tester and would love to use it for Chrysler electronic Distributors. Thanks.
boydsdodge for the electronic mopar dist i use the chrysler module. i use the black and yellow wire (TACH) wire i connect to the points lead and i use a 12v power supply it work for any magnetic pickup gm or ford
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 Thanks, I will give it a try. Plenty of ECUs around here.
It worked, thanks. I used a AC/DC 9 volt wall plug for power.
Now to get the tach dwelling working. new batteries, tach bottoms out below zero.
sorry didnt get back sooner had some race friends from way back show up. if ya need more info ask away ill do what i can to help. have a good one
Cool kid young ja
good video i have a question. i have chevy bigblock with that msd distr. intial timing of 15 and a total of 36. i dont know how mutch i get with the vaccum hooked up. i will look it up soon. my question is when do i want the total advance to get in? i have camshaft with a sweet spot of 1500-5500 rpm and a intake of 1500-6500
hey christoffer m, I like timing to be in as soon as possible. the only reason on any engine for centrifugal advance was for emissions for the manufacture and on performance is to get the engine started without kicking back on the starter. but there is a problem. If the advance is in the middle of its change during idle you end up with always changing idle. some times a stall especially with a automatic. with a automatic if its trying to advance when in park as soon as you put it in gear the timing retards and STALL. so at idle the centrifugal advance needs to be in all the way or out all the way with four speed and in or out in gear on a automatic. if you can achieve 1500 total without being in the middle of advance that would be great. 2000 would work good because even with a auto trans the engine spends most of its time above 2000 unless you have a good overdrive most of my dist fall in about 1800 unless I purchase a kit with heavy weights and light springs. in other words after a long winded comment... get it total as soon as you can. If you have more or if this didn't help feel free to ask more. Thanks for watching!!
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 but if i have the total timing 36 degrees btdc at lets say 2500 rpm. when i cruise on the highway, the vacuum advance will give it some (lets say 10-15 degrees) more advance. then i will ride around with a 45-50 degrees advance. that sounds to mutch. but maybe i get this wrong ?
It does seem like a lot but it isnt. Theres a few factors on total with vacuum. piston bore size thermostat temp and octane. Many people would say compression but this is only true at wide open throttle. the larger the bore the more advance because the flame front takes a little bit long to cover the distance. the higher the octane the same thing.(high octane burns slower) Of course the higher your thermostat temp is will effect it too because the higher temp, the faster the burn. Heres how i do it, rev the engine to max centrifugal advance in neutral or park with the vacuum advance connected. Advance the distributor till engine start to shake then back of the timing until smooth again. at he same RPM use your timing light to see were you at. From your total centrifugal to were you just adjusted your dist to is how much vacuum advance you should have. On a MSD dist were your vacuum tube plugs on theres is a small alan up inside and there is some adjustment in there for total vacuum. on my slant the total with vacuum is 48 on my 360 its at 53 and on my 440 its 55. ive seen as i as 58 before. Also remember there is no vacuum advance at wide open and heavy throttle positions because there is simply not enough vacuum in the manifold to operate the advance. One more thing ,there are those out there that say vacuum advance is a waist of time. This is not true on any level. Drag racing circle track racing or street the higher the compression is the hotter the combustion temp is and the plug heat range need to be lower to help control detonation. part throttle with high compression engine will foul the plugs vacuum advance helps that and allows you to tune for max performance and maintain part throttle performance... hope this helps as always ask away.
That's one neat machine I would be on my 3rd or 4th wife for sure then
Hello sir I was wondering if you had any advice to gain gas mileage on a v8 302 Lincoln Town car. Bye upgrading to HEI or coil on plug system?
Hi John is this the 1990 Lincoln you spoke of before. The answer to what is better is a coil on plug but you have to have the ability to control you timing advance curve to increase the potential milage over stock. A HEI distributor you can do that relatively easy. So if you have the electronics that can control and be changed by you then coil on plug , if not then i would go with HEI and you curve it to your specs. If you already have computer control on your ignition i would check into a chip for the computer. hope this helps
how wuld plazma ore amplified ignition behave in a engine? Im not shure what Im geting useing it? how wuld you tune carburator for max fuel efficiency culd acelerator pump by removed and moded preshure valve on the carburator to force him to work jusl like ordinary mechanical carburator? perhaps adding some vaporisators and moisture/air seperators wuld that work similar like Lpg car?
Hello devils wish. Plasma ignition have being worked on for a long time now and its finally showing benefits. I personally think it might be the way of the future for combustion ignition. Mileage being one benefit but all around torque hp. And emissions. As far as carburetors for fuel economy a lot of work can be done to improve on them for gas mileage. But if you don't computer control the air bleeds day to day will change the tune.still improvements can be made. First under size the carb. The more wide open the carb is the better the job it does but we go to fast so smaller is better for that reason alone but hi air speed is important here also and thats what also happens with a small carb. As far as taking off the accelerator pump the carb would have to be designed ahead of time for this. For instance the boosters need to be long and very pulse sensitive. The system can be tweaked to be much better though. One easy fix is delivery timing. Once the carb has transitioned to the main you can almost eliminate any more pump. Also deflectors can be installed at the nozzles to spread and deflect and mix the fuel helping you to reduce the shot size. As far as other devices attached to carb I don't have a clue sorry bout that.
what happens to the weight with no spring when it is send it out with centrifugal force?
It still does its job of advancing the timing only it does it at a lower rpm. It moves back when the lonely spring can bring both back when centrifical force gets low enough to bring it back.
All in by 1500 RPM? Isn't that a little too soon? I would say all in by 2000 or 2200. I would think that there would be some power loss at 1500 RPM with too much advance coming in too quickly. Or am I wrong?
Ignition timing is tied mostly to cam timing, and at peak torque is the point where the compression pressure is at its highest. At that point is where your total timing vacuum is at its lowest. Now I'm going to be completely honest with you. My timing on the barracuda and the truck is at max at idle. All in including vacuum as soon as the engine starts @ 46 on the barracuda and 48 on the truck. I have to be careful about saying these things because if you're new to driving and with a manual transmission, lugging an engine with this kind of timing can cause damage. 2 more things. If you lock out your distributor, then your timing starts and idles at your peak timing minus vacuum 32-38 or so. Running that way the engine is so responsive and fun to drive. The problem with lockout is that you can't start the engine unless you flood the engine or crank with the ignition of. Know back to cam timing. All cam profiles have a peak torque range and all above and below rpm,s there is lower cylinder fill which means the compression pressure is going down above peak torque and going up below peak torque. At lower rpms, the intake valve is open to long, and the piston pushes intake charge back into the intake manifold. (That's why engines with big cams idle with low vacuum) and thats why compression is lower under max torque. Above peak torque there is simply not enough time to fill the cylinder because the port is limited or the intake valve closes to early. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Ola amigo tudo bem eu falo do Brasil,eu tenho um analisador de motor Sun 601 ,mas não Tenho manual poderia me ajudar com qualquer informação?
Look here: sun modular engine analyzer manual
Only you need to register... hope it works for you
Hey John I have a real quick question. IYO who is making the best non-HEI distributor? The HEI's are too big for my use.
DobermansRock when use aftermarket i always go with MSD distributors. you dont have to use there module to make them work it wires in the same as factory
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 Thank's Tall John. I figure a guy with a calibration machine would know what calibrates best. A good TMDE Test Measurement Diagnostic Equipment day to you friend.
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 They say used MSD box and thats another $300
I find the street dist w vacuum advance for mopar about 150.00 and kit for about 350.00 on E bay
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 Ebay is our friend summit wants too much for a dizzy. The CH04 on my RamCharger sucks at high RPM.
Man I wish I bought the machine that was on Craigslist...... I'm still doing it the hard way..
Where I went to high school, auto shop had one and I learned how to use it there. My auto shop teacher was racing offroad race cars at the time. Class2 if ya know what that is. And when he was younger he ran top fuel and for a short period of time held the national record for ET. So I got lucky early to really utilize the machine. So 4 times a year at Pomona at the pit area they had a huge swap meet and I found the the machine there for 50 dollars working and loved it. I'm going to do 1 more vid on using it so look for that.
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 man Ill be waiting for that video and will remind you too!
Hi thank you for this video!! I just did this to my 73 B300 360 and when I went to start it it cranked and cranked then backfired Huge. Then it started and ran great then nothing. Do you have any idea what I may have done wrong? I did this with the distributor In place and didn’t mess with the timing.
Hi sorry to here you had problems. A guess would be that the little horse shoe clip my not be in place and is allowing the reluctor and rotor to go out of time.
I’ll check that out thank you for your time and your videos!!
Hey Tall John! That was one of my problems the other was the pick up was just ever so slightly out of line! Thanks for the push in the right direction!!
Was that a dominator hanging on the wall
no
This guy sounds like Kenny Rogers .
So I did this to my 400 BB Mopar today. I pulled the distributor followed your instructions and all went well with the distributor. But my son bumped the starter with the distributor removed. I put a mark on it before I removed it and I installed it back exactly where it was beforehand. But I'm worried to try to start it now where the motor was turned over without the distributor in it. Is this going to completely throw off the timing?
Should I have turned the motor till the timing mark is at TDC before installing it back into the motor?
On a 400 mopar, the distributor can only go in 2 ways, right or wrong. Or another way of saying it is correct or 180 degrees out. The exception is if you lifted the intermediate shaft (the gear down in the hole were the dist mounts), you might need to find TDC at that point. So because your either right or wrong if you put the distributor in and the timing is any were close, it should fun and if your in the wrong position it won't ever start and you will probably get a backfire. If this is the case, then simply lift the distributor about a half inch and rotate it 180 degrees and put it back in and then set you timing where you desire and ready to go. Pulling #1 plug out and cranking the engine with your finger over the plug hole until the pushes your finger away will help you avoid a backfire on the chance that you guessed wrong but a little pop or backfire and the rotating the distributor is easier and faster. Anyway, thanks for checking us out. I hope it helps.
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 thank you sir! I got it straightened out
Well I thought all was well. Initially I had it 180 degrees out. I pulled the distributor up spun the shaft 1/2 turn, and put it back in on the mark I had initially made on the block and distributor before I touched it. It crunk up after a couple tries. Ran decent. You said yourself in a video, that if your motor is backfiring, you need to get a new mechanic 🤣 well I do all my own stunts, so I thought you could help before I fuck something up bad. I haven't driven the truck yet, because I just have got it back together enough to drive. but in park, if you smack it close to, or at wide open throttle.... I get a huge backfire and fireball through the carb. I don't have a digital timing light like yours. My timing light is probably made the same year as the truck. Sears Craftsman. Nor do I have a tach. Like I said it's a 400. Long tubes, Edelbrock carb and electric fuel pump and pressure regulator. I don't know much else. If anything has been done to the motor. I have no clue beyond the timing tab how much timing I have. I was wondering if there was anyway I can send you a video of what I have going on. I trust your knowledge, and maybe you can point me in the right direction. I'm getting frustrated with the damn thing. It runs pretty good, but when you get into the secondaries it busts back. I can definitely show you better than I can type it. I think it's something simple honestly. I'm just not catching it. Thanks for helping me get it me this far. And I definitely would appreciate any advice!
How would a person curve out a light street cam.
This is a question I can't answer. If I had all things in the engine combo it would only be an educated guess. There are other videos on the channel that will help you find what you need, and that would be the best for your results.
Thank you Tall john.@@talljohnsfunshop2722
is there a GOOD HEI distributor for the slant six? or is it only cheap crap and needing a GM ignition module thing no one can seem to give me an answer and ive been looking for almost a month
Well there are a couple different dist available. There's the mopar electronic using a mopar module. There is pertronix you can use ( haven't used one of those in year's I'm not sure if there still available) and there's the tri power that uses a basic gm type HEI module but not a complete distributor, it is a good system from what I've seen but I have never personally used one, hope this helps. If this is not what you're after I'll try to help
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 that's the thing, I wanna get rid of the mopar module and put in an MSD ignition. I dont know if any of the distributors you listed will even work with it, I cant find any forums or videos to see if they work together. Thanks for replying
You can use the mopar electronic distributor with the msd. The msd distributor uses a copy of the mopar pick up. They are completely compatible I use a 6al box on my mopar distributors
The mopar distributor is a magnetic pickup so just google msd magnetic pickup wiring and you will find it
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 is this the one? www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-84661?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwh472BRAGEiwAvHVfGh1mR1Kf5oleSC4D38JX5wGH0B31Cw7-hQHPI9Sd0retWVzb0V4elRoCM8MQAvD_BwE what do i do with it, do i take out the points in my distributor and put this in or what? sorry if i sound stupid ive never done this before. my goal for my slant 6 is to make it as reliable and as economical as possible
The first thing you want to do is put you carburetor into stock setting it was when new.
Most people don't have carburetors
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 You're catching on.
On road trips I’m running 2250rpm at 75mph in 5th gear. Should my timing be all in by that rpm?
Yes absolutely. Anytime your engine is at Cruz throttle position it can handle total all in. The reason is at Cruz your engine is running at 60 PSI compression. Compression that low burns fuel extremely slow, so the need for high timing.
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 thank you for the prompt reply. Everything I’ve seen says by 3000 rpm, but I don’t run that high with overdrive
So, total advance, is that with vacuum hooked up or not hooked up?
@mikeburnett7028 total is without vacuum. when vacuum is stated it's always (total w vacuum )
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 thank you again
first , 20 deg initial and all advance in by 2000 equalls ping monster . second you will never accurately set initial timing with engine running with all that slack in the weight mechanism . it will just bounce around .
Well micheal if your engine won't ping with all in at 3000 it won't ping all in at 2000 reason the engine traps less air fuel mixture at a low rpm due to overlap in the cam. If it's pinging at 2000 it's going to ping at 3000, which should tell you your total timing it too high. As far as bouncing around goes mine is steady as a rock.this way of working ignition timing is not new, it was trained by Chrysler in 1969 in tech film strips to do to customer cars.
How old is that
I'm not sure but somewhere in the 60s I believe
Me imagino que super importante pero no sé nada en inglés.
Raùl Dominguez. usa traductor al igual que yo
@@Luisgt4130 no se usarlo.
Old ford Duraspark distributors are so much easier to do…..
Agreed
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 I see you tweeting springs this and that…. Ford replace the springs to light ones and bent the tabs as necessary, total advance can be changed with a piece of vacuum line….
This was more about the job can be done without purchasing any parts but the ford dist does have tweeking advantages
I need help I have one of these machines that came out of college paperwork with it and everything low use got damaged maybe but I have a friend of mine he's got one to sitting offered money for it but now I'm sitting on it so I got to learn it I got a lot of Mopars where are the best ones of the world come on give me a hand tell me what I can do I got to learn how to do this you got to art I know doing it on car text me a week before I can make a good mean motor happen but I got to know what I can do what I got or before I die I want to make a pile the finest Mopar stuff and burn it because I'm sick and tired I've been taking over but everybody's a****** thinking that they're going to end up with my shift for free and I pay for it in the long run what am I going to do are you going to help me I need help well you got my email well maybe not I don't know how to use this computer I know I'm dumb but I can guarantee it anybody out there that wants to race us guys you can't beat us because you are that stupid but I got to learn the art of f****** tuning so I can have my friends me ready with the junk you guys you that's right we are the champions of the world come join our side let's take the world back we are United States of America we got every a****** right now trolls of every kind Democrats and communist they're going to shut us down and I'm keeping all the stuff before they get their hands on it and I don't like anti-god people I am with Jesus every day that I wake up you know what before I die I pray to kill you guys off to hate us but I will not kill you that is up to God not me I'm not that kind of person I'm not a killer I am one that will tell you I'm going to outlive you in the afterlife too bad you can't come with me but you are invited though if you want to be like me you want to be the best or is it's easy just freaking get out there and just have your hand out and it is given to you because God will give you everything you want but I can't have the knowledge that I need right now I'm supposed to be stupid to you because you have a choice join us and enjoy the world you want to be the best at what you do and I want to be the best of 200 I want to make your life better I want to make my car is better I don't like everybody's cars better until you teach me how
I hope one day that young man sees me I think he would love me because I love the world I see things only a few people that loved the world could only see everyday I bring a treasure home today I hid treasure it was gold silver and many other things that was thrown over bridge and then I walk to the woods with the worst nights are and I brought home things that are 200 years old to the 1920s and and you know what nobody stop me I did a good days work for 2 hours and then there is a car and a truck that I'm moving off my property big money stuff that I can't work no more I'm too old for that that's good it's going to live these people are going to live doing it too and then the owners are going to be living even better because they going to put their life savings into it or maybe it's my life savings but to them it's chump change you know when you get up to $100,000 what do you want and I want to see that young man to see what I say money is not the way the world is being able to do something about it that's the way of the world that's right x-rayed like you have mister whoever you are that makes radiators you know whoever makes and it's in for a car the way it should be how about a distributor damn right I work with them I've got antique Distributors the best of the world for the Mopars sitting in my shop right now Reviving The First Mallory's they came out with first 426 distributors the first of the best I got them all of the motors and everything ready to go come on let's do something let's make this world a rock and roll again I like the old iron better than this stuff because the new stuff is all right but I couldn't prove the old stuff to we all can imagine a straight 8 from Oldsmobile I can modify that with two superchargers and guess what are you going to keep up with me I don't think so how about a Packard from 1915 I'll show you how to beat your ass about a Cadillac from 1937 I worked on one of the biggest cars only eight of them ever made how would you like to see what the world is made of how about 30 8 cylinder airplane motor when they first made him overseas the most precise thing ever seen how about mr. Diesel first engine how about the first of the Wright brothers and understand with gunpowder was for a few how about when they had hydrogen Motors before gasoline motors do you really know that and that's the reason why we won the war hydrogen