Im so glad I came across your tuning videos. You go above and beyond explaining all the different scenarios and how to go about tuning for optimal performance. For some reason Mopar guys have the best old school tuning videos 😂
Good stuff! Well explained. Thanks for the shoutout John. This will help anyone timing and trying to get the most from their combination. I definitely recommend a light.
Thanks Tall John. Well said on all points. Not enough timing is always better that to much. I talk till I am blue in the face trying to get people to know and absolutely be exact where their timing is. Starting with the timing pointer and timing tab. Not uncommon for tabs and marks to be off 1°, 2° or more degrees. So if you want 34° total and you're off two degrees you're now at 36°. Also many distributors advance way to much! I have seen HEI's go as much as 54°, this is engine destruction! Alot of people can build engine, not many can tune them. But if willing to do so, a person can learn to tune like a pro. Learn what works on their car or combination. The result, happy engine and car. Knowing is everything, having a baseline so you can change or modify for a perfect dial in. Great content, thanks for mentioning Joe and my shop. It is much appreciated John. Thank you, EM.
No more true statement (blue in the face). I guess it comes down the old saying about leading a horse to water. I feel like 1 of the hardest things to explain to people is the difference between torque and horsepower. But lately I feel its been harder to show people what proper timing can do. So I've noticed lately that most people feel like timing is a 1 size fits all. The examples you give are exactly spot on proving the point. I love channels that are dedicated to true and not hocus-pocus and your channel and JMJ channels are that, so the shout out it easy
John I also would like you to cover part throttle detonation. This is a subject few know about. This is an issue with no quench and pistons down in the bore. You can still destroy a low compression engine with this condition. The relationship with timing and the throttle plates at part throttle. Thanks again, EM.
It makes such a difference on everything in the way my slant runs. Friends go for a ride and they are always impressed and the biggest difference was the curve. Thanks for checking in !
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 John just curious what is your initial and total you run on your slant? Is it set up just like you did in your previous recurve video?
My 5.2 magnum likes 18 initial but it's hard on the starter. So I took out the heavy spring and left only the light spring and turned it down to about 15 degrees. Right after it starts though it jumps up a little a few degrees. Total at 34 all in by 2200 RPM
I have watched all of your videos and some of them 5/6 times. Great info, can't thank you enough for sharing your knowledge. I'm new to this but learning.. I have a 69 Dart with a 383 and edelbrock 750 cfm carb. have no idea about what cam it has.. it's hooked to ported, I get 16 on vac gauge at idle from manifold vac port seems to be my max. Car has TSP ready to run distributor was installed by a mechanic a year ago and now that I'm starting to feel confident enough to tinker with it I got a timing light and am trying to learn about timing and curving distributor.. My initial timing was set at 28* when I checked, Distributor had silver springs (medium) and silver bushing I think it gave centrifugal advance up to 25* on top of initial and I'm not sure what detonation is but at revving above 3K rpm engine felt off like it was screaming at me.. so I'm recurving Distributor now hoping to tune it better.. I got a Distributor kit with springs and bushings, Now I installed the black stop bushing limiting total advance to 18/19* additional instead of 25*, changed one spring to gold(lighter) left the other silver so mechanical advance now starts kicking in at about 1100/1200rpm and all in by 2500. My current timing is set at 21* initial 40* at 2500 (no vac attached) and 59* with vacuum attached to ported. vac canister is on lightest setting. car starts fine, runs good feels better but I feel like it's not running optimal don't know how to describe it, kind of feels like engine is not crisp enough I feel like it wants more timing but am afraid of too much timing and detonation and ping which I'm not sure I can hear if it were to happen. I can't limit the centrifugal advance further because I think this distributor only has 3 bushings you can use black silver and gold or none and the others allow for more advance so I'm using the black one to limit the advance at 18/19* additional only. In my situation, I think I should change the 2nd spring to gold as well so centrifugal timing is all in by 2000 rpm, set the total timing the way you do in your other video with the truck and leave initial where it falls after setting total. Then adjust carb accordingly as needed cuz it seems like I can't tinker with the amount of advance distributor gives any further, I can adjust the vacuum canister to stiffer setting which will limit total advance to a bit lower I presume but I'm not sure what to look for at this point. what would you suggest? I'd rather leave power on the table than detonate this engine.. If I'm not wrong I have 19* mechanical advance and 18* vac advance in my distributor the way it is now. Any of your thoughts, suggestions, wisdom or help is greatly appreciated and thanks in advance!
You are definitely moving in the right direction. Let me just say this, do not over advance your centrifugal total it will destroy your engine. You are spot on about that. No matter what initial you need, you will have to compromise that number so that you don't over advance your total centrifugal. But just do all you can and it's better than nothing. I always go with the lightest springs first and many times have to stretch them a little or buy lighter then what comes in your kit. So to gold is sounding like the right direction. Hey thanks for checking us out.
You just made my head explode from all of this great info and knowledge haha, great video as always, but maybe we should get Jacob a stool so we don't get the nose hair view hahahaa
Im so glad I came across your tuning videos. You go above and beyond explaining all the different scenarios and how to go about tuning for optimal performance. For some reason Mopar guys have the best old school tuning videos 😂
Good stuff! Well explained. Thanks for the shoutout John. This will help anyone timing and trying to get the most from their combination. I definitely recommend a light.
Thanks joe and thanks for the machine shop vid. That's a vid that entertains and educational, very rare
Thanks Tall John.
Well said on all points.
Not enough timing is always better that to much.
I talk till I am blue in the face trying to get people to know and absolutely be exact where their timing is.
Starting with the timing pointer and timing tab.
Not uncommon for tabs and marks to be off 1°, 2° or more degrees.
So if you want 34° total and you're off two degrees you're now at 36°.
Also many distributors advance way to much!
I have seen HEI's go as much as 54°, this is engine destruction!
Alot of people can build engine, not many can tune them.
But if willing to do so, a person can learn to tune like a pro.
Learn what works on their car or combination.
The result, happy engine and car.
Knowing is everything, having a baseline so you can change or modify for a perfect dial in.
Great content, thanks for mentioning Joe and my shop.
It is much appreciated John.
Thank you, EM.
No more true statement (blue in the face). I guess it comes down the old saying about leading a horse to water. I feel like 1 of the hardest things to explain to people is the difference between torque and horsepower. But lately I feel its been harder to show people what proper timing can do. So I've noticed lately that most people feel like timing is a 1 size fits all. The examples you give are exactly spot on proving the point. I love channels that are dedicated to true and not hocus-pocus and your channel and JMJ channels are that, so the shout out it easy
I really like the format, I love the fact that your boy is helping you.
You know these are the videos that I love to watch! A spark in time!
Haha....Confucius say, A spark in time save lot of dime
John I also would like you to cover part throttle detonation.
This is a subject few know about.
This is an issue with no quench and pistons down in the bore.
You can still destroy a low compression engine with this condition.
The relationship with timing and the throttle plates at part throttle.
Thanks again, EM.
Thank you John & Jacob.
Thanks for watching
I liked the way you explained it.
Freaking mind blowing info my man ! Good job on the video !
Thanks Bobby
That's a great explanation! Looking forward to the next one!
My Favorite Part of it all!...Timing....🤘
Thanks alot John very informative video! I've been tinkering around with the curve and timing on my slant.
It makes such a difference on everything in the way my slant runs. Friends go for a ride and they are always impressed and the biggest difference was the curve. Thanks for checking in !
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 John just curious what is your initial and total you run on your slant? Is it set up just like you did in your previous recurve video?
Yes it is set up just that way 20 initial 32 total
My 5.2 magnum likes 18 initial but it's hard on the starter. So I took out the heavy spring and left only the light spring and turned it down to about 15 degrees. Right after it starts though it jumps up a little a few degrees. Total at 34 all in by 2200 RPM
I have watched all of your videos and some of them 5/6 times. Great info, can't thank you enough for sharing your knowledge. I'm new to this but learning.. I have a 69 Dart with a 383 and edelbrock 750 cfm carb. have no idea about what cam it has.. it's hooked to ported, I get 16 on vac gauge at idle from manifold vac port seems to be my max. Car has TSP ready to run distributor was installed by a mechanic a year ago and now that I'm starting to feel confident enough to tinker with it I got a timing light and am trying to learn about timing and curving distributor.. My initial timing was set at 28* when I checked, Distributor had silver springs (medium) and silver bushing I think it gave centrifugal advance up to 25* on top of initial and I'm not sure what detonation is but at revving above 3K rpm engine felt off like it was screaming at me.. so I'm recurving Distributor now hoping to tune it better.. I got a Distributor kit with springs and bushings, Now I installed the black stop bushing limiting total advance to 18/19* additional instead of 25*, changed one spring to gold(lighter) left the other silver so mechanical advance now starts kicking in at about 1100/1200rpm and all in by 2500. My current timing is set at 21* initial 40* at 2500 (no vac attached) and 59* with vacuum attached to ported. vac canister is on lightest setting. car starts fine, runs good feels better but I feel like it's not running optimal don't know how to describe it, kind of feels like engine is not crisp enough I feel like it wants more timing but am afraid of too much timing and detonation and ping which I'm not sure I can hear if it were to happen. I can't limit the centrifugal advance further because I think this distributor only has 3 bushings you can use black silver and gold or none and the others allow for more advance so I'm using the black one to limit the advance at 18/19* additional only. In my situation, I think I should change the 2nd spring to gold as well so centrifugal timing is all in by 2000 rpm, set the total timing the way you do in your other video with the truck and leave initial where it falls after setting total. Then adjust carb accordingly as needed cuz it seems like I can't tinker with the amount of advance distributor gives any further, I can adjust the vacuum canister to stiffer setting which will limit total advance to a bit lower I presume but I'm not sure what to look for at this point. what would you suggest? I'd rather leave power on the table than detonate this engine.. If I'm not wrong I have 19* mechanical advance and 18* vac advance in my distributor the way it is now. Any of your thoughts, suggestions, wisdom or help is greatly appreciated and thanks in advance!
You are definitely moving in the right direction. Let me just say this, do not over advance your centrifugal total it will destroy your engine. You are spot on about that. No matter what initial you need, you will have to compromise that number so that you don't over advance your total centrifugal. But just do all you can and it's better than nothing. I always go with the lightest springs first and many times have to stretch them a little or buy lighter then what comes in your kit. So to gold is sounding like the right direction. Hey thanks for checking us out.
Thanks for the response! love your videos! @@talljohnsfunshop2722
You just made my head explode from all of this great info and knowledge haha, great video as always, but maybe we should get Jacob a stool so we don't get the nose hair view hahahaa
I got a bench for him to stand on but he fell asleep on it so I got rid of it. I think I bored him to sleep
@@talljohnsfunshop2722 hahaha
Great explanation... Thank you...
well done
Great videos! I am trying to time my 440 with orange box but my headers are glowing red…have you ever seen that?
Yes I have. It's late timing or lean mixture or both
Good instructions!
Thanks Tom
Hey Tall John, i have a 79 lil red express. What should the initial and total be. Its a stock 360. Thanks.
I have mine at 18 initial and 35 total. 50 vacuum.
Awesome....teach um young...
How to lower the timing. Raise the octane. You might pass smog.
Do you know what the base and full advanced timing be on a stock 383 2 barrel it's a 65 fury super comando
10 initial 22 total no vacuum 36 w vacuum are stock numbers
🤔⚡🤪😁
I liked the way you explained it.