@@JoeEverest you are welcome. I'm just glad I saw it and wish I saw it or something JUST LIKE it when I made my gate in 2007. Granted I would have never dreamed to look anything like that up back then. I just went with my construction knowledge which is a fair amount. I used a miter saw, have a chainsaw, but had no clue where it set the top and bottom board. I just winged it and it's still standing, granted I used Deck Exterior Torx Headed Screws not Drywall Screws. Actually I was looking for information about staining or weather protecting a fence and found this. It blew my mind. My neighbor replaced our side fence last year. I'm just thinking about staining my side this year.
I appreciate that when your opinion is different from the method used in the DIY video, you give your opinion without hatefully, and unnecessarily criticizing, the person in the video. Some people will do it their way, which is sometimes flat out wrong....but there's a respectful way to point that out, versus a hateful know-it-all way to do it.
@@JoeEverest i agree, there is a way to help with criticism without coming off as a jerk and you do that...like everything in life, there are many ways to do things and what works for one may or may not work for others...i used to say to a young mechanic apprentice of mine..."Do it my way and after you have that way down pat, if you think there are faster or better ways to do it, you can do it that way but at least you know my way works now"
Plus it's pressure treat... unless those brad nails are ACQ 2 approved, the chemicals in the wood will literally eat the nails away... all that work :(
They do make galvanized Brad and finish nails. I use them on exterior trim, instead of headless hand nails. However, you are right. He should be using galvanized ring shank like the commentator said.
I have to stop and give a big thumbs up for the comment about having a helper on a jobsite, especially fencing. I spent several years building fences solo, using a big clamp as my "unpaid intern". The system worked very well actually, but in 98-100 degree temps in summertime TN, I almost went down from overheating a couple of times. One of my customers, thank God, asked me if I ever needed someone to help me out and I ended up hiring one, then two of his ex-military brothers. Probably the best thing that's happened for me.
Man... dry setting posts with anything other than aluminum is a scary thought. That ready mix doesn’t take much mixing it up quick in a wheelbarrow and then just dump it in. Back when I worked for a company my boss always had me dry set posts we had to reset. And when we went back again to reset the already reset post to his surprise the Portland in the ready mix was all washed away... every single time. Just diggin up rock and dirt. Thankfully now that I started my own gig I don’t have to reset any posts I’ve already fixed..
Years ago my step mother had a 4' picket fence built by a "Professional" fence company. They used staples to attach the pickets, galvanized finish nails to attach the sections to the posts, 1/4x1 lags to attach the hinges to the gate and post and construction adhesive and tiny brads to attach the wooden post caps. Within a year the 1/4x1 lags in the gate needed to be replaced. The next year the post caps started blowing off and soon after that a lot of the pickets had pulled the bottom 1&1/4 staples out and were flapping in the breeze and several galvanized finish nails had pulled out of the sections as the posts moved back and forth. Concrete was only used in the corners and gate posts. I don't know how deep the posts were set. I used 5/16×1&1/2 lags in the gate and 5/16×2's in the post, 1&1/2 coated decking screws, in the pickets and caps and 3&1/2's to reattach the sections to the posts. Then I tamped rocks in next to the loose posts until they firmed up while checking for plum. My fixes worked well enough to last until my step mom sold the property, which was longer than it went with out problems after the "Professional" fence company installed it. Ps. IMHO, 1/4 Inch lags are very week, I have broken them with one hand chocked up on 3/8 ratchet. 5/16 lags are the smallest lags I like to use. If I need something smaller I will use a properly sized structural screw. Also, I have set 4x4 posts that protruded 4' above the ground, 2 and 1/2 feet deep and well tamped that hadn't move for 8 years of north east winters the last time I had a chance to check them.
Covering the concrete with the soil will rot the post off at the top of the concrete a lot faster. Also keep the bottom of the pickets above the ground so they don't rot either. The boards are green, as they season they will shrink and create the gap spacing. Use exterior grade screws (not sheetrock screws) to attach both the 2x4's and the pickets. Good tips on using the string as guide lines.
My dad used sheetrock screws for the handrails on our ramp, about 20 years later and almost fell through just propping on a rail........must have been good quality sheetrock screws for them to last as long as they did
Exactly, this comment and the next about pouring dry mix and then adding water. Watched to the 9 min mark and lost confidence. It may not be 'pretty' but if the top of the concrete is below grade your posts are going to rot right at the ground even if you use treated, 'soil contact' posts. Over dig, fill the bottom of the hole with 3-4 inches of gravel, use a form (home made or bought) that sticks above the soil line and premix your concrete. Dry mix into the hole yields a crumbly concrete-like mess. I don't care if the side of the bag says you can. If you are going to go to the trouble of digging all those holes and buying the materials, do it right. A well built wood fence will last you 20 years. (edit) Watched the rest of the video, wanted to comment on the nails/screws. A neighbor rebuilt an adjoining fence. He came over to our yard and attached the pickets with nails (he didn't ask for help or money so I kept my mouth shut) His large dogs walked right through it within two years. I put the pickets back up with screws then went along and did the same to all the rest. I usually buy local but make an exception for 'Deck mate' screws, they are Home Depot exclusive. You won't pop a head off. If you had a long enough bit you could drive those right through the posts until the threads no longer had purchase on the back side. I use them for every outdoor project and if I every take something apart I collect the screws and use them again, they are that good and don't rust or oxidize (poor quality fasteners leave very obvious black marks on a fence.)
@@aceichner most of our shelters were dig hole , pour half a bag in, add water, use packing stick to stir a bit and pack, then continue packing while pouring in the rest of the concrete. Not saying it's the strongest or right way but we've had the buildings stand through several hurricanes and they've stayed strong. as for the rotting post I cant say our post are still strong ,course the 4x4s are the old salt treatment mix so there is that
Idk, people don't want to see concrete at the base of their posts, I usually leave my mud a few inches down and pack dirt on it. Also, pouring dry mix in and dumping water on it seems crazy to me, why not just mix it up?
Good video Joe. I live in the Ozark region as well, and have installed a few privacy fences (remodeler) when requested. I'm a mix and pour kind of guy. Easy to tell if your crete is properly mixed in the wheel barrel, but not so easy to quality test it dry in a hole. Takes more time, but I'm certain of the result. The only other thing this kid omitted that frustrated me was, as you mentioned, the brad nails, not plumbing the pickets, and of course not plumbing the posts both directions. Drives me crazy.
When you install a fence with fresh wet lumber you don't need a gap. Lumber shrinks as it dries creating the gap. Dont know how the lumber is where you're at but here in California all lumber is sold still wet. Been professionally installing fencing for 12 years, never seen any of my lumber expand. Only shrink.
@@banannaninja Here in Louisiana Ceder fence board is sold dry at Lowes or Home Depot. And we get lots of rain and high humidity. The boards expand after a rain and shrink after drying out some.If no gap, first rain come in and the board try to bow out from the 2x4 frame which left gaps between board and the 2x4 If it don't pop out with the wind.
I live in Philly. Some people saw 24"-28" min. is common, but other folks, who also charge more, have told me that the posts should all be set below the frost line to prevent them from being pushed up/warping/whatever due to winter freezing then going up to 100 degrees in the summer. I'm no expert, so I'm not sure which is correct. --but 6" is obviously wrong
Usually you put the good looking side facing outward for presentation when people outside see the fence.. I have never seen anyone leave the 2x4 and post side facing outward.
@@Mixwell1983 we did cos we wanna see the nice side when we are in the garden, no point putting up a nice fence for yourself if its the neighbours that get to enjoy the look of it
Really nice videos. Enjoyed every one I watched so far. I have been installing fence for 45 years and my partner 42 years, still finding challenges. Customers are mostly homeowners installing PVC, chain link (mostly all black system) and aluminum. Very little wood, we simply cannot get a good grade of lumber in Northeast Pennsylvania. That digger that stopped working I believe was a Little Beaver made in Texas. Had one years ago, it wasn't reliable either. You should do a few videos on chain link and PVC.
Have plenty of little beavers around our area and never had any problems. If you had one from 30 years ago the gear box was grease filled and ended being a problem
@@JoeEverest we use to use jig on top. Now pick our grade changes and put temp boards and then string at top. After awhile you get fast at running boards. Your spot on all your comments. Everyone will find a different way to do something but end in the same result. After 45 years of building it's time to slow it down. Did like the part 350ft and already 5 days In my 20s that was a three day job by myself. Time moves on
I watched the Ian Ingram video and a lot of people mentioned him using 18g brads.. He said he went back after and screwed or nailed the boards properly after.
Joe, At 8:04 he says he wants the top of the concrete to be a couple of inches below grade so he can backfill with soil, and you agree with him?? Isn't that asking for the posts to rot?? In other videos, you agree that the concrete should be slightly above grade and it should be contoured to direct water away from the post, to help mitigate surface-level post rot. My experience has been that filling the concrete above grade (and sloping it away from the post) definitely helps reduce surface-level post rot.
18 gauge nail gun is a finishing gun, where the nails are very thin, normally no more than 50mm (2inches) long and have tiny heads which are wholly unsuitable for fencing. Those pickets will peel off the rails very easily as they warp in the weather.
I did all these myself from a video with my chain link fence 8 years ago and now its so had I cant get the post out..So it works! not sure about wood but metal worked for me.
I live in Texas I dig all my fences at 24 inches and use a 4x4 post we also do what he did we pour the concrete after we put water in hole then top it off with more water, but we use 2x6s for our rot board and we i connect the rot board first the start framing with 2x4s then we picket the fence we also measure 32 and 64 inches high for our framing on the post
Most diy fencers can’t run a good grade with existing ground and never seem to cut the posts . The time to cut the posts is BEFORE putting on the 2x4s. I use a 10” skilsaw to cut cleanly and squarely
Hey Joe, I’m wanting to build a 12ft privacy fence. How deep should I make the holes? I was thinking about getting some 4x4x16 and putting them 4 feet deep in the ground? What’s your take on this? Thanks Joe💯I Love the videos!
@@JoeEverest ok thanks, yea I live in central Georgia. I will build my fence based around your expertise. So if you see me liking a million of your videos, I’m learning! Thanks Joe! I’ll let you know when I’m done with it💯
Wow, the last fence project video was great, that fence is going to be tough for sure. I didn’t catch if he used pressure treated ground contact rated posts or not. But yeah, you are right about the stringers and pickets, especially the stringers being uneven would drive me up the wall… my OCD would be screaming at me, I’d lose sleep at night, lol. Good strong fence though.
@8:50 backfilling and seeding dirt would mean more work in maintaining unnecessary plant growth. I prefer weed-free but to each their own. @10:35 No matter how tight, gravity will pull string-lines down in the center so they’re not great for setting elevations, only for straight lines…but I guess you’re not building a clock. @11:11 Those screws are what I use and popping the head off when installing rails is an unfounded fear. @11:49 Okay maybe the tree limb bow saw wasn’t the best idea but I certainly wouldn’t use a chainsaw to cut a 2x4 either. About 10 years ago I installed about 300’ of treated privacy fence in S.E. Michigan (42” frost line but dug to 48”) and rather than concrete, I packed in some “County Mix” which was stone/rocks mixed with fine stone dust. The idea was to keep microbe laden soil away from the wood post and prevent wood post shrinkage that occurs when set in concrete, which then acts like a funnel for water to collect...and then the freeze/thaw cycle exacerbates the issue, cracking the concrete. Anyway, the County Mix was cheap, easy, and the fence is still solid as a rock, plus no weeds. But I’ll have to go with vinyl on my next fence because it seems I’m fighting a losing battle against the huge carpenter bees that are boring ¼” holes under the rails and on the side of the posts protected by the pickets. A very fast male bee always guards the entrance to the female and their brood so I recently discovered Sevin (garden hose mounted) is the only thing that will make ‘em vacate the area long enough that I can spray the holes with Terro aerosol and seal ‘em with aluminum foil. Sadly the next day, either the guard returned or was replaced, and I’d have to repeat the process on a new ¼” hole. BTW, what are your thoughts on creating shiplapped edges on the pickets to eliminate the gaps while still allowing for expansion and contraction? Sure it would mean more pickets would be needed, and more labor but not only would privacy be enhanced but could even add a bit of stability. Well, it was just a thought.
Hey thats me. This has been great to watch. I didn't know anything back then. I learned a ton building this fence a recently built one at my new house about 6 months ago. It was 100% better. Thanks for the video!
I'm still really against putting concrete in dry and then wetting. I mix properly then pour in and also add about 2" of 3/4- in the bottom if the hole too.
@@northwestgaming4049 I'm fairly sure that soil around posts is why I have 4 posts that have rotted out before the rest of the fence. (fence built before I moved in) the rest isn't great but because of those posts I'm having to look into a new fence earlier than I would have liked.
Every time I have used concrete the post rots at ground level. EVEN DOT pressure treated, Packing the soil without any concrete wood post last many years longer .
I put a fence in and just packed the concrete dry, figuring the rain and ground moisture would slowly set that concrete. We went down 30 to 36 inches because of the frost line. Did I do wrong?
He should have run a string line accros the top of the picket. He also should have nailed a temporary picket thought out the fence line where the ground elevation changes using 6" mark on the picket. Then run a string line aross the top of the fence around the perimeter. That keeps the fence pickets smooth throughout the job.
Question for you, when you talk about running a string line across the stringers. Do you run a string line across many posts at a certain measure up from the ground, or just between two posts at a time? My yard has some spots where it has a good slope to it. Thanks!
Hey Joe, my stringers turned out great. How would you recommend the easiest way to set my pickets? My ground is not even. Would it work if I just laid a 2x4 on the ground and touch the pickets against it and nail them? Making sure they are square of course. I was thinking that way they should go with the terrain. Thanks!
I only do stock fences so I don’t really use concrete much but I normally drive my posts at least a 1/3 of their overall length into the ground. For example if I wanted a 1.2 high stock fence I would use 1.8m fenceposts, sometimes I drive them even further if ground conditions are soft
A couple things, one I don't see a rock bar or root chopper to help get your hole dug, two he's dry bagging it. We always mix our concrete then set post,and unless you want water builup at the top of your set I try to build the set up for water to run off and away from the post. I'm only 8 minutes in
Replaced the fence in the backyard of my parents house. The old posts were only 14 inches deep for a 6 foot high fence. In Ontario, Canada...you know, a place that never gets any frost...
I build fences for a living as well and here in Wisconsin we dig our hole 4 foot down and wet set our concrete with a lil extra portland to give it a lil extra strength
4' sounds deep, but I'm no expert. Probably will last a long time. In Philly, we stay down around 25-35 degrees at night all winter. Some say put the posts at least 3' deep, fence contractors are telling me 24" is plenty. I'm not so sure 24" goes below the frost line, and no one around here seems to be sure whether or not the chain link posts (4' tall fence) should be down below the frost line or not to prevent the frozen dirt from warping/pushing up the posts. any thoughts?
Hi Joe, I have been following you since we bought our first house and built a fence for our dog, privacy, and one days kids. I finished it and had a horrible time at getting the level right and making it the same all the way down. How would I fix this. One side I measured from the ground so I may get my chainsaw and a 2x4 to make it the same height all the way. I did a weird offset on my stringers on the other section. Thanks for the great tips in your videos tho.
@@JoeEverest It is not,sadly. It starts low then comes up flat for a bit so that part is easy keeping the level and then drops about 6-7 inch's in two 6 foot sections. I also did 6 foot sections instead of 8. The stuff I build is always stronger then it needs to be but it doesn't always look as it is supposed to be but this was my first time and I did it mostly by myself. The total length of the fence I put in is about 280 feet. The auger came in handy! All I can say is the 11' 9" double door gate I did on the side of my house is perfect! I used 6x6 for the post on those. And did a nice transition on one side that met the other neighbor's fences. ( Seen on one of your videos.) What is the best way to send you photos of my fence. If it is some material you would like to talk about in your videos feel free to use to help other first timers.
Gravel boards are always a good idea. Why risk rotting the end of every single fence board for the sake of a single easily replaced horizontal board? Plus they can have intermediate stakes added to reduce sagging over time. In the U.K. we prefer feather edged wooden fencing, where boards overlap eliminating any potential for gaps. Posts are often notched or mortised to accept the arris rails. Makes for a super strong fence.
Is filling the hole with dry concrete and hosing it with water a good method? You seemed okay with this Joe? I've heard of this before but always done it the traditional way of mixing it with water first, and then pouring it in the hole so I know it's a consistent mix
Here on the East coast when I do a fence post I sent them 2 ft deep and try to use 2 80 lb bags of concrete.lol nothing more annoying then a gate post or fence post that moves
It's a lot easier to install the pre built fence panels. If they are built correctly, you can rack them to follow grade. Its important to not have the pickets resting on the ground. When installing a panel, we would lift it up enough to stick our foot underneath. This way the pickets aren't wicking up the moisture. We would dig 3 feet deep for posts. All posts in a run would get dry crete. The gate posts always got mixed crete. South eastern Pa
He's in England and it doesn't get near as cold as the Midwest, however when I lived in the UK the average was still 12 -14 inches for standard. His due to size would be at a bare minimum of 26 inches but a good contactor would go even lower
Make wooden fence last 20 years longer by using a top board design that protects picket end grain from weather. Shorter runs of 6 feet between post adds eminence resilience to wind and sag. Use 12 foot 5/4 ×6 for stringers at top of post, and for strongest design use 4x6 post every 12 ft and 4x4 between then cap the entire length with a top 5/4 . Fence will look new for many years and it doesn't have to have an ugly side. Extra cost is well worth the effort.
Quick Crete is actually formulated to be able to pour it in the hole and then add water done it many of times and know people who have done it many times but to each their own
Fence builder here: given the location (high winds) if you set a post with mixed/wet concrete there is a chance of the post moving in the wet concrete leading to unlevel posts. Unless you install supports to prevent the post from moving it is better to use dry concrete then add water after.
Not accounting for wood for the privacy fence, how much did he save on labor doing it himself? Granted with a professional you get a professional job and experience, but I don't know how much labor would be for 350 foot of 6 foot picket fence.
Just a question from someone who does not do fence work, Is there supposed to be a gap between fence slats for expansion and contracting? About an inch or so?
my uncle set all 4 corner post run a string from corner to corner get your line of post holes straight then move the string to the post tops get your height even on your posts so you can run over lumps and bumps but keeping the top of your fence straight and flat
I live in Central Florida and I put the top of the bottom rail at "12 above ground because of soil splash from the rain. At "12 above and subtracting "3-1/2 for the rail, it puts the bottom of the rail at "8-1/2 and the bottom of the picket is above the ground about "1 so that puts the total exposed picket at the bottom at about "7-1/2. Did I overthink this?
I agree with all your opinions... except one. Screws on the 2x4 are the way to go. I do repairs for a living and have NEVER seen heads pop off a screw. However, I've seen countless times where heads have popped off of nails. Another reason screws are better for this application is that theyre going into treated lumber. Treated lumber is very wet when new. And dries out and SHRINKS very quickly. And after all, it is wood that's out in the elements. Freeze/thaw, wet/dry makes that wood move ALOT! I've done many repairs on fences that are falling apart not because the lumber is failing, but because the lumber has shrunk and been in the elements for a time, the nails (ringshank or not) have lost their grip. I've talked with some "fencing companies" around me and they no longer use nails on structural parts of fencing. A good quality 3" deck screw will hold a fence together until the wood rots around it. Cant say the same for nails in this application.
What do you guys feel about rot on a post that has concrete only way down low (like the bottom 12”), and dirt tamped on top of the concrete (12” deep to the surface)? So when I say rot I mean of concrete comes to the surface and some dirt gets pushed over it it tends to rot the post at ground level causing the post to break at ground level.
The fence post acts as a cantilever beam column which is the load on the fence multiplied by the height / 2. So for let's say a 200 lb moment Force you would need either 200 lb of concrete or and a friction resistance buried into the depth of the soil
Seeing the vid, just a few things I’d change, in fairness, for a diy job it was decent, but if you use a bitumen sleeve it prevent post rot at ground level, instead of having having 3 rails at 2.4m, use 4.8m rails and stagger them as you progress, this means that no one bay can be “pushed” out at the same time, it also helps to get an even distance between posts, I agree with using a string line or “eyeing” in posts to get an even line, but instead of measuring from ground up, measure from top of post down, as mentioned, ground levels are almost never level, but if the top of your fence is straight, your rails will flow and look far better, again you mentioned a jig to get picket heights, fantastic, but try and ensure the bottoms are 2-4” above ground, this will stop rot and by the other hand not be too far off the ground. Just a few small things I picked up on, by and large I was watching and nodding along with your commentary, overall, excellent constructive video. Do it nice or do it twice. 👍
privacy fence my uncle again used a string to get the boards level on top he would put in one nail me and my cousin came along we use a bubble level then nail the rest of the picket to the 2x4's !! my uncle made sure we were efficient lol
I agree running a string line for the top rail and then u should be able to measure down for the middle and bottom rails and they should run the same as the top or close enough u won’t really be able to tell much and then also I ask the customer if they want the post cut of with the top of the rail or the top of the fence if they might ever want to put a light post cap on the posts but the top of my post is no higher then the top of the pickets
I would have sealed the top grain of the boards with varnish, then stained or painted the boards *before* hanging. Also would have done similar with the runners. depending on the situation I'll sometimes put some fabric between the board and the runner for drainage, particularly if the fence is running near a house and under an eve where it might experience roof runoff
Not a word about posts being pressure treated or not. How long before they rot out? Must be a nightmare to set a new post digging out all that concrete. Why use concrete? I just removed some posts from a deck and the ones set in compacted dirt and gravel were very solid compared to the ones set in concrete that pulled straight up after hitting them with a large hammer a few times. Of course a big bock of concrete is left in the ground that requires removal also.
I'm all about using chainsaw for fencing. Being from montana most my work is post and poll (chainsaw works best), but I still use circular saw privacy, but I like keep risk down as much.
Noobie here, why isn't a skill saw enough. Why chain saw? I put out a new mailbox, but cut the post at top of with skill saw, it worked great. Maybe its slower than chain saw. Chain saws scare the heck out of me, but I have used them before many times. Still scare the heck out of me.
I hate to see the transition of the fence post to the ground left bare. I always wrap mine in flashing to keep them from contacting the soil. It's the microbes in the soil that cause the post to eventually rot at ground level. A lot of utility companies do the same thing.
Chainsaw 🤔 I’v done that time to time but circular saw works just fine as always lol. Wow iv noticed in a lot of these videos they frame on the out side of the post and where I’m from we cut the post to grade and top rail goes on top of post and bottom rail goes in between the post. Oh dang that gate is gonna twist and sag Frame is silly. I never dry mix in the whole unless it’s raining and I need to set one last post. And if I do I mix half the bag in while then pour the rest in and mix it then pack it with the flat end of my digger bar. But no always mix in wheelbarrow.3rd generation fence builder. I don’t claim to be the best or no every little trick but I take pride and can say I’m proud of every fence I’v built. Have never used a jig fir grading the pickets but instead just run a string line at the heights the picked need to be at and put the picket up to the string line and plum it with a torpedo level and nail it Then can fly no moving a jig just check fir plum every few feet
fucked I'm from brum, me and the old man taught ourselves the game am no expert, only been on this for 5 years but I get stuck in, make myself stink and earn myself a drink kinda way. but I install close board just the way you said can't be faffing around lining all the feather edge up with a jig, don't they know we're all on price?😂 respect bro
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for passing on knowledge. I love smart people who are not afraid to educate others.
@@JoeEverest you are welcome. I'm just glad I saw it and wish I saw it or something JUST LIKE it when I made my gate in 2007.
Granted I would have never dreamed to look anything like that up back then. I just went with my construction knowledge which is a fair amount. I used a miter saw, have a chainsaw, but had no clue where it set the top and bottom board. I just winged it and it's still standing, granted I used Deck Exterior Torx Headed Screws not Drywall Screws.
Actually I was looking for information about staining or weather protecting a fence and found this. It blew my mind.
My neighbor replaced our side fence last year. I'm just thinking about staining my side this year.
Another awesome video!
I appreciate that when your opinion is different from the method used in the DIY video, you give your opinion without hatefully, and unnecessarily criticizing, the person in the video. Some people will do it their way, which is sometimes flat out wrong....but there's a respectful way to point that out, versus a hateful know-it-all way to do it.
@@JoeEverest i agree, there is a way to help with criticism without coming off as a jerk and you do that...like everything in life, there are many ways to do things and what works for one may or may not work for others...i used to say to a young mechanic apprentice of mine..."Do it my way and after you have that way down pat, if you think there are faster or better ways to do it, you can do it that way but at least you know my way works now"
I'm a Fencer from the uk. I have a beard too. We all have beards. It's like the only qualification you need.
You call that a beard ? That looks like my pubic hair
@@vaclemor102 how you flexing your lack of manscaping my dude
Bearded Fencer here from Australia
Ayeeeeee I gotta beard too! here in Kansas!
And a ponytail?
I’m a sub-contractor, I’ve got a jig built with some cedar 10’ 2x4’s that one side will ride on frame and other on a picket. Makes for fact work.
Something about watching people who don’t do construction, do construction.. but this takes the cake. Great vid lol
Connor Stirling 😂 that 'nail' gun got me good
It’s a finish nailer. They will rust out in less than a year and all those pickets will be falling off.
Its not even a finish nailer its a brad nailer if you lean on one of those from inside it would pop right off lol
That's an 18ga Brad nailer for shoe molding and door casings. Surprised it stayed together long enough to make a video about it.
Plus it's pressure treat... unless those brad nails are ACQ 2 approved, the chemicals in the wood will literally eat the nails away... all that work :(
They do make galvanized Brad and finish nails. I use them on exterior trim, instead of headless hand nails. However, you are right. He should be using galvanized ring shank like the commentator said.
For sure 18ga is to small I don’t even use 18ga for crown molding base board of door trim 16ga is my go to
Awesome information. These are really contractor and construction tips as well... Thanks joe
Handyman here. Thanks for the upload. I actually learned a couple things. Keep up the good work!
I have to stop and give a big thumbs up for the comment about having a helper on a jobsite, especially fencing. I spent several years building fences solo, using a big clamp as my "unpaid intern". The system worked very well actually, but in 98-100 degree temps in summertime TN, I almost went down from overheating a couple of times. One of my customers, thank God, asked me if I ever needed someone to help me out and I ended up hiring one, then two of his ex-military brothers. Probably the best thing that's happened for me.
Sounds like great additions to the team!
Man... dry setting posts with anything other than aluminum is a scary thought. That ready mix doesn’t take much mixing it up quick in a wheelbarrow and then just dump it in. Back when I worked for a company my boss always had me dry set posts we had to reset. And when we went back again to reset the already reset post to his surprise the Portland in the ready mix was all washed away... every single time. Just diggin up rock and dirt. Thankfully now that I started my own gig I don’t have to reset any posts I’ve already fixed..
Years ago my step mother had a 4' picket fence built by a "Professional" fence company. They used staples to attach the pickets, galvanized finish nails to attach the sections to the posts, 1/4x1 lags to attach the hinges to the gate and post and construction adhesive and tiny brads to attach the wooden post caps. Within a year the 1/4x1 lags in the gate needed to be replaced. The next year the post caps started blowing off and soon after that a lot of the pickets had pulled the bottom 1&1/4 staples out and were flapping in the breeze and several galvanized finish nails had pulled out of the sections as the posts moved back and forth. Concrete was only used in the corners and gate posts. I don't know how deep the posts were set.
I used 5/16×1&1/2 lags in the gate and 5/16×2's in the post, 1&1/2 coated decking screws, in the pickets and caps and 3&1/2's to reattach the sections to the posts. Then I tamped rocks in next to the loose posts until they firmed up while checking for plum. My fixes worked well enough to last until my step mom sold the property, which was longer than it went with out problems after the "Professional" fence company installed it.
Ps. IMHO, 1/4 Inch lags are very week, I have broken them with one hand chocked up on 3/8 ratchet. 5/16 lags are the smallest lags I like to use. If I need something smaller I will use a properly sized structural screw. Also, I have set 4x4 posts that protruded 4' above the ground, 2 and 1/2 feet deep and well tamped that hadn't move for 8 years of north east winters the last time I had a chance to check them.
Covering the concrete with the soil will rot the post off at the top of the concrete a lot faster. Also keep the bottom of the pickets above the ground so they don't rot either. The boards are green, as they season they will shrink and create the gap spacing. Use exterior grade screws (not sheetrock screws) to attach both the 2x4's and the pickets. Good tips on using the string as guide lines.
My dad used sheetrock screws for the handrails on our ramp, about 20 years later and almost fell through just propping on a rail........must have been good quality sheetrock screws for them to last as long as they did
Exactly, this comment and the next about pouring dry mix and then adding water.
Watched to the 9 min mark and lost confidence. It may not be 'pretty' but if the top of the concrete is below grade your posts are going to rot right at the ground even if you use treated, 'soil contact' posts. Over dig, fill the bottom of the hole with 3-4 inches of gravel, use a form (home made or bought) that sticks above the soil line and premix your concrete. Dry mix into the hole yields a crumbly concrete-like mess. I don't care if the side of the bag says you can.
If you are going to go to the trouble of digging all those holes and buying the materials, do it right. A well built wood fence will last you 20 years.
(edit) Watched the rest of the video, wanted to comment on the nails/screws. A neighbor rebuilt an adjoining fence. He came over to our yard and attached the pickets with nails (he didn't ask for help or money so I kept my mouth shut) His large dogs walked right through it within two years. I put the pickets back up with screws then went along and did the same to all the rest. I usually buy local but make an exception for 'Deck mate' screws, they are Home Depot exclusive. You won't pop a head off. If you had a long enough bit you could drive those right through the posts until the threads no longer had purchase on the back side. I use them for every outdoor project and if I every take something apart I collect the screws and use them again, they are that good and don't rust or oxidize (poor quality fasteners leave very obvious black marks on a fence.)
@@aceichner most of our shelters were dig hole , pour half a bag in, add water, use packing stick to stir a bit and pack, then continue packing while pouring in the rest of the concrete. Not saying it's the strongest or right way but we've had the buildings stand through several hurricanes and they've stayed strong. as for the rotting post I cant say our post are still strong ,course the 4x4s are the old salt treatment mix so there is that
Idk, people don't want to see concrete at the base of their posts, I usually leave my mud a few inches down and pack dirt on it. Also, pouring dry mix in and dumping water on it seems crazy to me, why not just mix it up?
"Covering the concrete with the soil will rot the post off at the top of the concrete a lot faster."
^^^THIS
Talking about skipping a step, what about checking if the post is set plump. FS Ian Ingram - Spirit level!
Plump... lol. We say that all the time as a joke. We know it’s plumb, right?
SRT480HP from this day forward I will make it a point to say plump instead of plumb
Plump.. 😂😅
Also, they did use a spirit level. The lady with him is doing it. As he’s using the hose, she is making sure it’s plumb.
Plump and lever makes it better
Good video Joe. I live in the Ozark region as well, and have installed a few privacy fences (remodeler) when requested. I'm a mix and pour kind of guy. Easy to tell if your crete is properly mixed in the wheel barrel, but not so easy to quality test it dry in a hole. Takes more time, but I'm certain of the result.
The only other thing this kid omitted that frustrated me was, as you mentioned, the brad nails, not plumbing the pickets, and of course not plumbing the posts both directions. Drives me crazy.
notice he was using braid nailer (not going to hold). no gap between board (need 1/8 or more between each board) in Louisiana no gap = board popout..
When you install a fence with fresh wet lumber you don't need a gap. Lumber shrinks as it dries creating the gap. Dont know how the lumber is where you're at but here in California all lumber is sold still wet. Been professionally installing fencing for 12 years, never seen any of my lumber expand. Only shrink.
@@banannaninja Here in Louisiana Ceder fence board is sold dry at Lowes or Home Depot. And we get lots of rain and high humidity. The boards expand after a rain and shrink after drying out some.If no gap, first rain come in and the board try to bow out from the 2x4 frame which left gaps between board and the 2x4 If it don't pop out with the wind.
I use quick creat but I mix it and pour it in and never cover it up with dirt because it holds water on the post
Don't dry set your posts. Premix your concrete and pour it around the post.
Sean Hatch exactly
Dry setting is the lazy garbage way to set a post.
He followed the directions on the bag.
@@5stardave And then his posts sank a year later :)
It works just fine. You are not building a house
1:30 I'd say at least 8" deep. But, 6" or 8" is inconsequential. Should be 2 feet deep for a 6 foot fence.
9 or 10 I'd say but yep
I live in Philly. Some people saw 24"-28" min. is common, but other folks, who also charge more, have told me that the posts should all be set below the frost line to prevent them from being pushed up/warping/whatever due to winter freezing then going up to 100 degrees in the summer. I'm no expert, so I'm not sure which is correct.
--but 6" is obviously wrong
Instablaster
8..9'' they come as u prob know pall if creat n panels 18 t 21'' on average!
The over travel guards for drywall bits can help allow for consistent depth when driving screws.
That fence is a soup sandwich! You were awful nice about it! 🤣🤣
I like the other side facing the yard.
Usually you put the good looking side facing outward for presentation when people outside see the fence.. I have never seen anyone leave the 2x4 and post side facing outward.
@@Mixwell1983 we did cos we wanna see the nice side when we are in the garden, no point putting up a nice fence for yourself if its the neighbours that get to enjoy the look of it
Really nice videos. Enjoyed every one I watched so far. I have been installing fence for 45 years and my partner 42 years, still finding challenges. Customers are mostly homeowners installing PVC, chain link (mostly all black system) and aluminum. Very little wood, we simply cannot get a good grade of lumber in Northeast Pennsylvania. That digger that stopped working I believe was a Little Beaver made in Texas. Had one years ago, it wasn't reliable either. You should do a few videos on chain link and PVC.
Have plenty of little beavers around our area and never had any problems. If you had one from 30 years ago the gear box was grease filled and ended being a problem
@@JoeEverest we use to use jig on top. Now pick our grade changes and put temp boards and then string at top. After awhile you get fast at running boards.
Your spot on all your comments. Everyone will find a different way to do something but end in the same result. After 45 years of building it's time to slow it down. Did like the part 350ft and already 5 days
In my 20s that was a three day job by myself. Time moves on
Like the video very good clean words
I watched the Ian Ingram video and a lot of people mentioned him using 18g brads.. He said he went back after and screwed or nailed the boards properly after.
I would just get an nail gun, and do it once.
Great video.
Where’d you get that fancy orange jail onesie.
I also use a string line to set height. When a board needs to be cut flip upside down and mark at line
Joe,
At 8:04 he says he wants the top of the concrete to be a couple of inches below grade so he can backfill with soil, and you agree with him?? Isn't that asking for the posts to rot??
In other videos, you agree that the concrete should be slightly above grade and it should be contoured to direct water away from the post, to help mitigate surface-level post rot.
My experience has been that filling the concrete above grade (and sloping it away from the post) definitely helps reduce surface-level post rot.
18 gauge nail gun is a finishing gun, where the nails are very thin, normally no more than 50mm (2inches) long and have tiny heads which are wholly unsuitable for fencing. Those pickets will peel off the rails very easily as they warp in the weather.
yep same as decking. always be mindful of creep, before you know it , its started to go crooked and laying iron sheeting
a chainsaw? why not a circular saw?
A circular saw only has a 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 inch cut depth. The post is 3 1/2 inches, requiring 2 cuts for each post. The chainsaw can do it in one cut.
We use a circular saw for cutting the 2x4s and a sawsall for flush cutting the 4x4 post after the 2x4s are up
yeah when i saw that part i was like he cannot mean an actual chainsaw..
@@ItsMagicMatt if you already have a chainsaw out for cutting the 4x4,why carry 2 tools around?
I'll definitely be using a chainsaw now
I did all these myself from a video with my chain link fence 8 years ago and now its so had I cant get the post out..So it works! not sure about wood but metal worked for me.
Joe, 15 mins or so in the video you mention using a jig to align the top portion of the pickets. Can you show us how to make this jig?
I live in Texas I dig all my fences at 24 inches and use a 4x4 post we also do what he did we pour the concrete after we put water in hole then top it off with more water, but we use 2x6s for our rot board and we i connect the rot board first the start framing with 2x4s then we picket the fence we also measure 32 and 64 inches high for our framing on the post
Most diy fencers can’t run a good grade with existing ground and never seem to cut the posts . The time to cut the posts is BEFORE putting on the 2x4s. I use a 10” skilsaw to cut cleanly and squarely
Hey Joe, I’m wanting to build a 12ft privacy fence. How deep should I make the holes?
I was thinking about getting some 4x4x16 and putting them 4 feet deep in the ground? What’s your take on this? Thanks Joe💯I Love the videos!
Really depends on how solid the soil is, I would shoot for a 48” minimum.
@@JoeEverest ok thanks, yea I live in central Georgia. I will build my fence based around your expertise. So if you see me liking a million of your videos, I’m learning! Thanks Joe! I’ll let you know when I’m done with it💯
Can wen you pull the old wood post can you use the same concret hole to put your new vinyl post use it for your new fence
I doubt the rail spacing is going to be the same, but you could certainly try!
Wow, the last fence project video was great, that fence is going to be tough for sure. I didn’t catch if he used pressure treated ground contact rated posts or not. But yeah, you are right about the stringers and pickets, especially the stringers being uneven would drive me up the wall… my OCD would be screaming at me, I’d lose sleep at night, lol. Good strong fence though.
THAT IS NOT A "STRONG FENCE" YOU KNOW BETTER THEN TO SAY THAT ! LOL
You must suffer a lot in this world with all the (ocd) imperfection out there...lol
@@bridesnyc not really the outside stuff, more referring to any project I would be doing… that kinda OCD 😂
LOL@@Patriot_Drone_Services
@8:50 backfilling and seeding dirt would mean more work in maintaining unnecessary plant growth. I prefer weed-free but to each their own.
@10:35 No matter how tight, gravity will pull string-lines down in the center so they’re not great for setting elevations, only for straight lines…but I guess you’re not building a clock.
@11:11 Those screws are what I use and popping the head off when installing rails is an unfounded fear.
@11:49 Okay maybe the tree limb bow saw wasn’t the best idea but I certainly wouldn’t use a chainsaw to cut a 2x4 either.
About 10 years ago I installed about 300’ of treated privacy fence in S.E. Michigan (42” frost line but dug to 48”) and rather than concrete, I packed in some “County Mix” which was stone/rocks mixed with fine stone dust. The idea was to keep microbe laden soil away from the wood post and prevent wood post shrinkage that occurs when set in concrete, which then acts like a funnel for water to collect...and then the freeze/thaw cycle exacerbates the issue, cracking the concrete. Anyway, the County Mix was cheap, easy, and the fence is still solid as a rock, plus no weeds.
But I’ll have to go with vinyl on my next fence because it seems I’m fighting a losing battle against the huge carpenter bees that are boring ¼” holes under the rails and on the side of the posts protected by the pickets.
A very fast male bee always guards the entrance to the female and their brood so I recently discovered Sevin (garden hose mounted) is the only thing that will make ‘em vacate the area long enough that I can spray the holes with Terro aerosol and seal ‘em with aluminum foil. Sadly the next day, either the guard returned or was replaced, and I’d have to repeat the process on a new ¼” hole.
BTW, what are your thoughts on creating shiplapped edges on the pickets to eliminate the gaps while still allowing for expansion and contraction? Sure it would mean more pickets would be needed, and more labor but not only would privacy be enhanced but could even add a bit of stability. Well, it was just a thought.
your intro ad is great
Thanks, appreciate you watching!
Wadsworth is the UK, West Yorkshire. Very wet area up north.
Came out good compared to another ones i have seen
Hey thats me. This has been great to watch. I didn't know anything back then. I learned a ton building this fence a recently built one at my new house about 6 months ago. It was 100% better. Thanks for the video!
Should I use tar on my fence post ends that go in the ground?
Screws are way stronger than nails!! Nice video
Great video content!
Would it be better to have the concrete above dirt level? Dirt level and just under is where the rot zone is, right?
I'm still really against putting concrete in dry and then wetting. I mix properly then pour in and also add about 2" of 3/4- in the bottom if the hole too.
I mix before install on concrete to. Also I found it best to mound the concrete to wick water away from post rather then let soil rot post early.
@@northwestgaming4049 I'm fairly sure that soil around posts is why I have 4 posts that have rotted out before the rest of the fence. (fence built before I moved in) the rest isn't great but because of those posts I'm having to look into a new fence earlier than I would have liked.
Every time I have used concrete the post rots at ground level. EVEN DOT pressure treated, Packing the soil without any concrete wood post last many years longer .
That's wat ready post mix is for!
I put a fence in and just packed the concrete dry, figuring the rain and ground moisture would slowly set that concrete. We went down 30 to 36 inches because of the frost line. Did I do wrong?
I wonder if the fasteners going into the pressure treated wood are galvanized.
I build fences in Ontario, Canada and all post holes have to be inspected and with permit. 4 feet deep and twice as wide as the post width on average.
He should have run a string line accros the top of the picket. He also should have nailed a temporary picket thought out the fence line where the ground elevation changes using 6" mark on the picket. Then run a string line aross the top of the fence around the perimeter. That keeps the fence pickets smooth throughout the job.
Question for you, when you talk about running a string line across the stringers. Do you run a string line across many posts at a certain measure up from the ground, or just between two posts at a time? My yard has some spots where it has a good slope to it. Thanks!
Joe Everest thank you for the response!
Hey Joe, my stringers turned out great. How would you recommend the easiest way to set my pickets? My ground is not even. Would it work if I just laid a 2x4 on the ground and touch the pickets against it and nail them? Making sure they are square of course. I was thinking that way they should go with the terrain. Thanks!
I only do stock fences so I don’t really use concrete much but I normally drive my posts at least a 1/3 of their overall length into the ground. For example if I wanted a 1.2 high stock fence I would use 1.8m fenceposts, sometimes I drive them even further if ground conditions are soft
Sounds like a great rule of thumb! Thanks for sharing!
A couple things, one I don't see a rock bar or root chopper to help get your hole dug, two he's dry bagging it. We always mix our concrete then set post,and unless you want water builup at the top of your set I try to build the set up for water to run off and away from the post. I'm only 8 minutes in
Replaced the fence in the backyard of my parents house. The old posts were only 14 inches deep for a 6 foot high fence.
In Ontario, Canada...you know, a place that never gets any frost...
I build fences for a living as well and here in Wisconsin we dig our hole 4 foot down and wet set our concrete with a lil extra portland to give it a lil extra strength
4' sounds deep, but I'm no expert. Probably will last a long time. In Philly, we stay down around 25-35 degrees at night all winter. Some say put the posts at least 3' deep, fence contractors are telling me 24" is plenty. I'm not so sure 24" goes below the frost line, and no one around here seems to be sure whether or not the chain link posts (4' tall fence) should be down below the frost line or not to prevent the frozen dirt from warping/pushing up the posts. any thoughts?
Hi Joe, I have been following you since we bought our first house and built a fence for our dog, privacy, and one days kids. I finished it and had a horrible time at getting the level right and making it the same all the way down. How would I fix this. One side I measured from the ground so I may get my chainsaw and a 2x4 to make it the same height all the way. I did a weird offset on my stringers on the other section. Thanks for the great tips in your videos tho.
@@JoeEverest It is not,sadly. It starts low then comes up flat for a bit so that part is easy keeping the level and then drops about 6-7 inch's in two 6 foot sections. I also did 6 foot sections instead of 8. The stuff I build is always stronger then it needs to be but it doesn't always look as it is supposed to be but this was my first time and I did it mostly by myself. The total length of the fence I put in is about 280 feet. The auger came in handy! All I can say is the 11' 9" double door gate I did on the side of my house is perfect! I used 6x6 for the post on those. And did a nice transition on one side that met the other neighbor's fences. ( Seen on one of your videos.) What is the best way to send you photos of my fence. If it is some material you would like to talk about in your videos feel free to use to help other first timers.
Gravel boards are always a good idea. Why risk rotting the end of every single fence board for the sake of a single easily replaced horizontal board? Plus they can have intermediate stakes added to reduce sagging over time. In the U.K. we prefer feather edged wooden fencing, where boards overlap eliminating any potential for gaps. Posts are often notched or mortised to accept the arris rails. Makes for a super strong fence.
4 feet deep up here in Canada on the post depth. Wish it was only 2 1/2ft!
Why do a fence with all boards facing one way? I don't understand my house has then one way then they flip every post
Is it just ascetic ?
With wood posts, do you prefer to lay them on top of the post and attach or between posts and attach?
my fence post is leaning back pulling the whole wood fence down ...do u think I can just replace the posts? do I do it with cement ?
I like how quick he shows the finished fence, you don’t get to see how bad it really looks. Eyeballing never looks good.
Also putting finished side on the inside makes it easier for whoever to climb over your fence
Is filling the hole with dry concrete and hosing it with water a good method? You seemed okay with this Joe? I've heard of this before but always done it the traditional way of mixing it with water first, and then pouring it in the hole so I know it's a consistent mix
Im in AZ. Putting 10ft 4x4 posts spced 6ft apart. How deep do the posts need (privacy wall, 6.5ft tall)
Really depends on the wind load but it sounds pretty sturdy!
@@JoeEverest I supposed it helps it backed up against an existing block wall to help with wind. Could I get away with 3ft?
Here on the East coast when I do a fence post I sent them 2 ft deep and try to use 2 80 lb bags of concrete.lol nothing more annoying then a gate post or fence post that moves
I'm from Montreal, frost deep is around 4' , big commercial job ask us 5 and 6' deep
It's a lot easier to install the pre built fence panels. If they are built correctly, you can rack them to follow grade. Its important to not have the pickets resting on the ground. When installing a panel, we would lift it up enough to stick our foot underneath. This way the pickets aren't wicking up the moisture. We would dig 3 feet deep for posts. All posts in a run would get dry crete. The gate posts always got mixed crete. South eastern Pa
He's in England and it doesn't get near as cold as the Midwest, however when I lived in the UK the average was still 12 -14 inches for standard. His due to size would be at a bare minimum of 26 inches but a good contactor would go even lower
Make wooden fence last 20 years longer by using a top board design that protects picket end grain from weather. Shorter runs of 6 feet between post adds eminence resilience to wind and sag. Use 12 foot 5/4 ×6 for stringers at top of post, and for strongest design use 4x6 post every 12 ft and 4x4 between then cap the entire length with a top 5/4 . Fence will look new for many years and it doesn't have to have an ugly side. Extra cost is well worth the effort.
No gravel board? Doesn't putting all the boards straight on the dirt mean the ends will rot early?
Why in the world is it better to pour dry concrete into the hole? Mixing is always better
I do it all the time but like everything there a right way and wrong way
Quick Crete is actually formulated to be able to pour it in the hole and then add water done it many of times and know people who have done it many times but to each their own
Fence builder here: given the location (high winds) if you set a post with mixed/wet concrete there is a chance of the post moving in the wet concrete leading to unlevel posts. Unless you install supports to prevent the post from moving it is better to use dry concrete then add water after.
The instructions on the back of the quickcrete bag tells you to install it that way. Fence post concrete isn't, nor does it need to be, structural.
Did you catch the gate handle and locking pin? The handle is suppose to go over top of the locking pin. Drives me crazy......
Not accounting for wood for the privacy fence, how much did he save on labor doing it himself? Granted with a professional you get a professional job and experience, but I don't know how much labor would be for 350 foot of 6 foot picket fence.
How you doing with the red cedar board shortage?
Just a question from someone who does not do fence work,
Is there supposed to be a gap between fence slats for expansion and contracting? About an inch or so?
my uncle set all 4 corner post run a string from corner to corner get your line of post holes straight then move the string to the post tops get your height even on your posts so you can run over lumps and bumps but keeping the top of your fence straight and flat
I live in Central Florida and I put the top of the bottom rail at "12 above ground because of soil splash from the rain. At "12 above and subtracting "3-1/2 for the rail, it puts the bottom of the rail at "8-1/2 and the bottom of the picket is above the ground about "1 so that puts the total exposed picket at the bottom at about "7-1/2. Did I overthink this?
If the math works out for you and it leads to consistency then it’s right on the money!
I agree with all your opinions... except one. Screws on the 2x4 are the way to go. I do repairs for a living and have NEVER seen heads pop off a screw. However, I've seen countless times where heads have popped off of nails. Another reason screws are better for this application is that theyre going into treated lumber. Treated lumber is very wet when new. And dries out and SHRINKS very quickly. And after all, it is wood that's out in the elements. Freeze/thaw, wet/dry makes that wood move ALOT! I've done many repairs on fences that are falling apart not because the lumber is failing, but because the lumber has shrunk and been in the elements for a time, the nails (ringshank or not) have lost their grip. I've talked with some "fencing companies" around me and they no longer use nails on structural parts of fencing. A good quality 3" deck screw will hold a fence together until the wood rots around it. Cant say the same for nails in this application.
I am not a fence pro by any means but I always mix concrete in a bucket before i poured in the whole. I dont thank thats to code in most states....
if you but up one handle of the auger against you're foot and hold the second handle with both hands it wont blow you're back out when you hit a rock
I did mine to 32 about a foot wide with a bell at the bottom normally takes three to four bags of concrete each
What do you guys feel about rot on a post that has concrete only way down low (like the bottom 12”), and dirt tamped on top of the concrete (12” deep to the surface)?
So when I say rot I mean of concrete comes to the surface and some dirt gets pushed over it it tends to rot the post at ground level causing the post to break at ground level.
Post rot tends to occur in the top 2" of aerobic soil.
On the gate, shouldn't the 2×4 run from the hinge to the bottom corner of the gate to prevent sagging? Great content, thanks for "posting"!
It works better that way by transferring the load of the latch side of the gate through compression, as opposed to tension, down to the hinge.
In Alaska I'm going 2ft I can't really go muck deeper but I'm putting Reba in it to help
The fence post acts as a cantilever beam column which is the load on the fence multiplied by the height / 2. So for let's say a 200 lb moment Force you would need either 200 lb of concrete or and a friction resistance buried into the depth of the soil
Should always pre mix concrete for proper slump and consistency. Pouring dry mix into a hole will not hold up with time.
Seeing the vid, just a few things I’d change, in fairness, for a diy job it was decent, but if you use a bitumen sleeve it prevent post rot at ground level, instead of having having 3 rails at 2.4m, use 4.8m rails and stagger them as you progress, this means that no one bay can be “pushed” out at the same time, it also helps to get an even distance between posts, I agree with using a string line or “eyeing” in posts to get an even line, but instead of measuring from ground up, measure from top of post down, as mentioned, ground levels are almost never level, but if the top of your fence is straight, your rails will flow and look far better, again you mentioned a jig to get picket heights, fantastic, but try and ensure the bottoms are 2-4” above ground, this will stop rot and by the other hand not be too far off the ground. Just a few small things I picked up on, by and large I was watching and nodding along with your commentary, overall, excellent constructive video. Do it nice or do it twice. 👍
privacy fence my uncle again used a string to get the boards level on top he would put in one nail me and my cousin came along we use a bubble level then nail the rest of the picket to the 2x4's !! my uncle made sure we were efficient lol
I agree running a string line for the top rail and then u should be able to measure down for the middle and bottom rails and they should run the same as the top or close enough u won’t really be able to tell much and then also I ask the customer if they want the post cut of with the top of the rail or the top of the fence if they might ever want to put a light post cap on the posts but the top of my post is no higher then the top of the pickets
I would have sealed the top grain of the boards with varnish, then stained or painted the boards *before* hanging.
Also would have done similar with the runners.
depending on the situation I'll sometimes put some fabric between the board and the runner for drainage, particularly if the fence is running near a house and under an eve where it might experience roof runoff
How can I get on your show I remodel homes
Not a word about posts being pressure treated or not. How long before they rot out? Must be a nightmare to set a new post digging out all that concrete. Why use concrete? I just removed some posts from a deck and the ones set in compacted dirt and gravel were very solid compared to the ones set in concrete that pulled straight up after hitting them with a large hammer a few times. Of course a big bock of concrete is left in the ground that requires removal also.
I'm all about using chainsaw for fencing. Being from montana most my work is post and poll (chainsaw works best), but I still use circular saw privacy, but I like keep risk down as much.
Noobie here, why isn't a skill saw enough. Why chain saw? I put out a new mailbox, but cut the post at top of with skill saw, it worked great. Maybe its slower than chain saw. Chain saws scare the heck out of me, but I have used them before many times. Still scare the heck out of me.
Did you mean to say circular saw or do you actually use a chain saw to cut 2x4s?
I hate to see the transition of the fence post to the ground left bare. I always wrap mine in flashing to keep them from contacting the soil. It's the microbes in the soil that cause the post to eventually rot at ground level. A lot of utility companies do the same thing.
Chainsaw 🤔 I’v done that time to time but circular saw works just fine as always lol. Wow iv noticed in a lot of these videos they frame on the out side of the post and where I’m from we cut the post to grade and top rail goes on top of post and bottom rail goes in between the post. Oh dang that gate is gonna twist and sag Frame is silly. I never dry mix in the whole unless it’s raining and I need to set one last post. And if I do I mix half the bag in while then pour the rest in and mix it then pack it with the flat end of my digger bar. But no always mix in wheelbarrow.3rd generation fence builder. I don’t claim to be the best or no every little trick but I take pride and can say I’m proud of every fence I’v built. Have never used a jig fir grading the pickets but instead just run a string line at the heights the picked need to be at and put the picket up to the string line and plum it with a torpedo level and nail it Then can fly no moving a jig just check fir plum every few feet
fucked I'm from brum, me and the old man taught ourselves the game am no expert, only been on this for 5 years but I get stuck in, make myself stink and earn myself a drink kinda way. but I install close board just the way you said can't be faffing around lining all the feather edge up with a jig, don't they know we're all on price?😂 respect bro