Bless April, She tries and succeeds. As a DYI you tuber she rocks it. She looks for advice and constructive criticism and is very descriptive. Its nice to see experts help her and give advice and also admire her efforts.
I appreciate your honesty in reviewing this build. So many people out there just love to make fun of her methods or the way she says some things. Her methods are sometimes unconventional but she gets them done and has fun doing them.
It is nice to see a quality build full of great tips being reviewed by a professional who isn't ripping her apart. As a diy'er, I learned a lot here. I've built fences and have a construction background, but having not one but 2 pros confirming the tips increases the confidence of knowledge a diy'er can walk away with. Great video! THANKS!
Here in Alaska I only put concrete in the bottom of the hole to set them, and then tamp the posts in with gravel and whatever soil came out of the hole. The reason for this is that, in my experience, if concrete is poured all the way to the top of the hole, the posts get heaved up out of the ground when the ground freezes. The post hole is usually wider at the top, so concrete at the top gives the freezing and expanding ground something to push against, forcing the pists up. I've replaced many that have heaved up, and the ones I've done with little or no concrete stay put.
That just proves the point that region can dictate building technique. In my area, I rarely see any snow and never seen a post get heaved up out of the ground as you describe, but If I ever move to Alaska i'll keep it in mind.
I love horizontal fences. They look great. It was the idea when we did our fence, but since one of the three sides of my yard is already bordered by my neighbors fence, we opted to match theirs so I wouldn't die from anxiety caused by mismatched fence 🤣 This fence looks amazing.
My grandpas cedar fence is 60 years old I’ve only replaced storm damaged sections. There was no rot in the cedar on concrete areas. Was able to pull them posts out with concrete on and reset them straight. Due to 50 plus years of wind.
She did a great job. I've built many a fence but never with that many steps. Always mixed ready mix in the hole with the post never used braces. Always used screws never nails. Always used post hole diggers and never an auger which has saved me from hitting utilities more than once despite them supposedly being marked. I would keep the top level and dig the ground down and come back with a saw to level off the bottom at the end. I'd knock out 300+ feet in less than 3 days by myself. 👍🏻
@@thenarrator1984 I live 30 mins away from where that fence was built. unless you have a week and a jack hammer, you need someone with a skid steer and a drill.
@@enigma9789 you must work slow. I have lived in the harshest till area you can imagine and I've managed to dig fences when needed. Its definitely not "solid rock" solid rock is a term used for bedrock. You can say it's hard till. But it ain't solid rock
@2:45 This was 40 years ago, but my father had a method where he would bore a 1 inch hole into the end of the post and pour engine oil into the end of the post, plug it up, and then set that end into the ground. The idea being that the oil would leach into the post and protect it from rot He must have been doing something right because when I sold the house 30 years later these posts were all still there and as strong as ever.
I built my fence dry setting the poles, fill hole with post in it with dry concrete mix, jiggle post into final alignment, then pour in a bucket of water. It's solid after 15 years.
I have done it in a similar way except I would pour in the water first then the sackrete. Then I would use a stick to tamp it down to seat the post solidly.
I installed fence for years. We would tamp the posts in with dry concrete, and let mother nature do the rest of the work. On gate posts, we would always mix the concrete and let it set before hanging gates.
That is good advice on concrete delivery. In our local it's a bit cheaper than self-mix, excepting wait-time charges. I'm not sure how much extra time would be needed for so many small pours, but talk it over with the company before hand. They can be on a very tight schedule and may want to allot an additional delivery slot or two. This is where mix-on-site delivery can sometimes make more sense... small pour of undetermined size.
I have a similar laser levelling system with a 3-axis laser. I use it for everything. Drywall, fencing, excavation, prep for brick-laying, setting out foundations and tons more.
Before digging, please call the local number (varies by state/county) to find out where underground lines are. I didn't hear it mentioned here, but it prevents heartache. Usually, it's needed when doing any project, but good idea even if it's a small project you are doing.
811 service (call811.com/) should be avail anywhere in the Continental United States (with a few exceptions) to request some one come out, then locate and mark the untilities. Canada has something similar also...
In my experience they always mark it wrong anyways, still a great idea to at least have the information as it may be right. But often it turns out that things have since been changed and not reported, or things are located wrong by the guy who comes out to check. Ive seen so many guys have the ground marked beforehand and then still manage to hit everything but a natrual gas line.
Concrete in post holes sits a bit high, need to leave some room at top of holes to replace with dirt. Here in Australia fencing contractors usually 'overlap' the rails and notch them into the posts for support, overlapping rails means never having joins in rails in a vertical line. Eg. top rail 6 m long middle rail 6 m long but offset to next two posts. Bottom rail 6 m long but offset to previous post. This adds great rigidity to the horizontal structure.
That's a lot of material just to support the posts ... I like to put something like a flat paver in the bottom of the hole, make it easier to make those final level adjustments, protects post bottom once encased in concrete ... go ahead and use your horizontal supports (make sure all the same length) to level posts along the fence line ... then you just need supports for perpendicular to fence line.
There are a few reports coming out of the UK about the postsavers failing after less than 5 years. People are finding they don’t stay sealed to the post at the top and moisture and air get between it and the post.
Why not use metal posts, and box them in for looks? I think that would be more durable snd less expensive than cedar posts, especially for a vertical picket fence.
Do you guys not have postmix? In the uk we have 25kg bags of the stuff, two bags per hole ( comes ready mixed ) . After a few hours it’s solid enough to hold the post with no bracing.. this seems really long winded. We drop the post in, levelled, postmix - done.
Great looking fence, the only thing i would do differently to prolong longevity would be to replace the nails with screws. A fence that tall and solid is going to take stress from even the lightest breeze, screws are better adapt to handle the constant buffeting that can loosen nails over time.
If you use ring shank nails they will hold three or so times the load and may be another good option to upgrade, but still have the speed of the nailer.
I live In Massachusetts and had a pvc fence installed in January of 2017 (Yes, snow on the ground). The installer just poured dry cement/concrete into the post holes. They claimed the moisture in the ground would be absorbed and harden. It seemed to work but just wanted to know if you have heard of this.
Instead of lasering each individual post "most lasers have a +,- 3mm tolerance to mitigate just mark every 3rd/4th post and straight edge or chalk line in-between... faster and more accurate.
April stated that she dipped the posts to cover the bottom three feet of every post with the preservative. When the posts were set, she had about a foot of preservative showing above grade. This means the posts are only set 1-1/2 to 2 feet below grade. Seems strange from Canada where fence posts are set four feet below grade below the frost line.
@@rogerweaver7686 Yes, people in the northern states and Canada are amazed by the things that don't need to be done during construction in Texas and other southern states. At least, until Texas gets hit with a cold front, like in 2021, and their pipes burst, the electrical grid crashes and the whole state goes in the shitter. Doesn't Texas get fence eating hurricanes on occasions?
@@chrisgraham2904 I installed pipe for a living. I also repaired pipe when it froze.... Frost line is carried and diverse. I've seen frost 15 feet deep. Big ice chunks.
She is on Tim Allen’s History channel show Some Assembly required that aired in February. I think 10 episodes. Just watched the video. She had to wait to tell her followers. Happy For her
Ok, in Iowa, do you want the concrete to come up to ground level, or stop a couple inches under? I’ve heard that a couple inches under help lock in the fence when the ground starts to freeze, because the footing can’t heave up with the surface ground freezing first. On the other hand, this means dirt is in contact with the wood, even with treatment.
@@JoeEverest I have just installed some new Postsaver sleeves,they`re really great,so easy to use and so obvously a great solution to below-ground damp (and very importantly "above-ground" damp as long as the instructions are closely followed and at least 2" of the membrane stands proud of ground level!!).
I want to build a 6 ft high horizontal fence using PostMaster steel fence post spaced a little less than 5'4" on center. In addition to the top and bottom 2 x 4 rails, I plan on adding a vertical 2 x 4 at midspan between each post. This will give me a location to fasten the horizontal boards about every 32". The reason for the 5'4" spacing of the fence post is that I would like to use 7/8" x 5-1/2" x 16 ft long composite wood hollow decking boards as the horizontal fence boards. This would allow the boards to be installed with butt joints every 16 ft. The reason for the hollow choice is to reduce the weight. They would all be attached with clips that connect to the edge grooves of the boards. Do you see any problems with this idea? I'm thinking of using a 2 x 6 bottom rail for extra support of the weight of the decking boards. Also, I was planning on using PT 2 x rails and pre-painting them to match the color of the deck boards. Is PT wood able to be painted or is the moisture content to high? Thanks in advance for your comments.
I think setting posts regardless of your method is the most important part of your build. Just like the foundation of your house. Get it right from the beginning. I’ve always been against setting wood in concrete but I do believe this fence will last for a long time
Whats your take on putting posts in concrete vs no concrete? I just had a fence done and we went with no concrete. I was told it can rot the wood worse than just planting it in the ground.
I'm enjoying this and I definitely enjoying your commentary and expert opinion. I definitely need to learn how to use a laser level better! one thing that I would do different when I set fence posts is I pour a couple of quarts of water into the hole then pour the bag of Quikrete straight into the hole then I set my post to level and I hold it in place literally for about a couple of minutes at level and it seems I've never had a post go off from that. And I usually use a bag and a half per hole that's a 50lb bag
My only critique of this fence is that the posts didn't seem to be very deep in the ground for an 8 foot fence and also I think she'd have been much better off using screws rather than nails. Other than that, a beautiful job.
@@scruffy6151 so I live in the windiest city in the world where 100km/hr winds are no big deal and I've never seen a post break off due to winds. I have however seen plenty of fences slump due to posts not sunk deep enough.
That's exactly what she's doing she's learning as she goes. She studdies these things on the net sometimes or she sits down n plans them out and documents what she does mistakes and all and shares them with everyone so that they can see its not some mystical thing reserved for the secret societies. Anyone can do this.
South Florida building code requires 4 foot on center for the fence posts. No in swing exterior doors, out swing doors only. Impact resistant laminated windows. 210 mph wind uplift capable foam adhesive for roof tiles. Hurricane building codes make our homes stupid expensive down here. Cha Ching!
"Now I'm gonna start by dipping 750 8-foot 4x4s into this liquid - Sounds like a shoulder workout, but it's not too bad. " Watching this just reinforces how much of an underachiever I am. Now have to use all my fence post wood money for therapy.
Hey Joe.....I just built a new fence at my home. Love your honesty on your channel....so if you get a chance, let me know what you think and if I could improve anything (12 video process). I was a framer for quite a while and fences were NOT something I did often. Thanks in advance.
Hey this is cool man. How often do you work with steel posts? We work 99% of the time with steel posts here in Holland. Cool to see some wood construction!
@@JoeEverest Oh very nice! Also very cool to see the different kind of methods you use! We are just getting started filming some of our projects! Would be so cool if you check em out. Keep it safe and greets from Holland👍🏻
You can buy premixed concrete in a towable trailer instead of mixing bags yourself. Saves time if time is your prime concern, otherwise rent a mixer and do it yourself as she did, if money is your concern. You can get a 10" wood blade for your jigsaw. (amazon of course). It's also useful for cutting campfire wood and you'd be surprised what you can cut with it while hunting. Positive placement nailer is expensive. I'd use coated deck screws Yeah, I'm late to the party, but who knows what YT suggestion criteria is.
Warning on laser measuring devices. Some are closer to nearest inch while others are close to an 1/8. Look at accuracy to distance and do the math. Honestly some are meant for estimating and not even rough carpentry.
April is not only Beauty but also Brains. I love her thought process, DETAILED understanding in ways to build better and more economical. Probably a factor why she (didn’t use the SLEEVE approach over THE DIPPING) I hope this chic begins a world wide trade carpenter school for just women. Some Men have clearly slacked for too long as contractors and skimp the most important details of simple applications. The area in which I live is just horrible for the slap happy fashion work they finish with and then look at you like I expect $50 an hour or more for this labor cost. 😂 so now I do my own just like this woman bc at least I know I’m getting quality and thought out planning w follow through. Sprinkle sprinkle
I evidently missed something. Why notch every other post at the top? The un notched middle post would throw your top board off by almost 2 inches. Or does it set on top of the middle post? Idk, like I said evidently I missed something but she had a beautiful fence
Those 6x6x8' posts currently about $320 each in CT. That's almost $11k for her posts alone. #3 cedar boards would add another $8k. Add concrete, hardware, labor and you have one hell of a fence.
A 12' board would span 2 sections. Could have saved a LOT of cutting. Start first section with alternating 6' and 12' boards then all 12 footers until last section. Much more rigid too
First let me say I am not a fence builder but a deck builder. I love her work. It always looks great. How ever there are a few things I see a lot of fence builders and deck builders alike do that i would never do. Probably the biggest thing is using nails for anything. I know using structural screws and deck screws takes longer and costs a little more. How ever the quality of the work is far and away better imo. What is you opinion on that? the second thing is toe nailing or tow screwing. In my opinion that is a huge nono if you want a quality job. Do you have an opinion on that?
I indirectly work in the timber industry in SC. All of the lumber mills that I visit and all of the timber harvesters that I visit. Are cutting no less lumber and the mills have plenty of lumber to mill. There really isn't a limber shortage this is manufactured just like the gas shortage was
Shortage of wood my rear end sir, my lumber yard is chock full of the crap and we are now deny orders to get more until my stock is out. Maybe in some areas there are shortages but not overall.
Could be wrong,but coatingthe bottom of post is a trap for all water and moistermthar penitrates from above, goodmin theory, but I would argue they will rot much faster than untreate or coated. So many experts ! An ex is a has been, and a spert is a drip under pressure,lol.
We never use concrete like this we use dry concrete and put in the hole than tamp it. Doing it this way allows water to seep down between concrete and post . I guess we g do it the way the log farmers did in the past. Now they have some kind of foam. But to each his own.
Started watching her when she had a teeny shop starting out abut then she started building decks onto her home at the time. She did a second story deck and stairs to ground that was not done to code - it wasn't even lagged to the building, just free standing. Then the sponsors started pouring in like Wranglerstar and I bailed. I think a lot of subs just like looking at her.
Your right. For 8 foot fences she should have used all 6x6, instead of 4x4. Even if she lucky and there is no wind, she will still get warping and twisting, from the fences weight. This also has to do with the fact that 4x4 are not 4x4 anymore, companies cheat and reduced them by a bit, there more like 3.6x3.6 and people were never smart enough to catch on.
Hey Joe, I like watching Aprils videos, however this one is not good. The cedar is excellent and I wish it was more accessible here in Scotland. The problem I have with this video is her posts are far too shallow, this fence will be down when a storm hits it. A fence post should be one third of its height below ground, in this case a minimum of 30 inches, looking at the stain mark, they look barely half that depth. As I said beautiful material, but used poorly. Like your interaction with D&J projects, another favourite of mine. Keep up the good work!
Beautiful fence! I disagree on the bracing method, though. Trying to solidly brace on a loose object braced on a loose object braced on a loose object, etc. etc. It would probably be fine if at least some of them had the concrete poured already.
she needed to rent a mini mixer trailer. We have them at our local material yard. Price was 140 per yard for 4000psi. It is a little less scientific so a fence or well tank pad are perfect jobs for the little trailer.
@@JoeEverest would have been easier just with a wheelbarrow and taking shovel worths and placing it in the hole 🕳 considering you have to place it on all sides of the post for level placement
@@JoeEverest in the UK here. There is a shortage of most building materials atm. I was surprised when you mentioned you had issues in the USA as well covid got everyone building.
I appreciate her being so diligent measuring even the upright braces with a tape and laser but, that is overkill. I would have just made another story pole to mark the center, She took so much effort into the spacing of the posts the extreme accuracy of those center braces wasn't really needed. I do how ever understand that she is making a video and no matter how she does it some so called "EXPERT" like myself would make a comment. That all said she is a great craftsman.
Why did she drill the post holes so large? Could have used a smaller hole and one bag per hole, saving about $5 per post. You would have to put the holes in more accurately though.
For mixing concrete the best way I know is to use a 6' x 6' tarp. Pour the bag of concrete onto the tarp, spray some water on, 2 guys holding the tarp slosh it back and forth and then pour it into the post holes or sonotubes for decks or fences. Quickest way I know of, and you can aim it into the holes easily and quickly.
Bless April, She tries and succeeds. As a DYI you tuber she rocks it. She looks for advice and constructive criticism and is very descriptive. Its nice to see experts help her and give advice and also admire her efforts.
she literally owns a wood shop business, I don't know if I would call her DIY at this point
Her voice annoys me 😂
Love April…she is a beast!!! Love you too! Your video reviews are priceless! Keep em coming.
I appreciate your honesty in reviewing this build. So many people out there just love to make fun of her methods or the way she says some things. Her methods are sometimes unconventional but she gets them done and has fun doing them.
Well, the FUN part of your statement may be stretching it.
I am really enjoying these react videos. Its helpful as a DIYer to get someone else's insight on how other RUclipsrs are doing things.
It is nice to see a quality build full of great tips being reviewed by a professional who isn't ripping her apart. As a diy'er, I learned a lot here. I've built fences and have a construction background, but having not one but 2 pros confirming the tips increases the confidence of knowledge a diy'er can walk away with.
Great video! THANKS!
I love April’s channel. I found her by watching your review of her first fence, a beautifully done project!
It's nice to see two different professionals on one video. Keep up the great work both of you.
Enjoyed watching your reaction, you are so respectful in your commenting.
Here in Alaska I only put concrete in the bottom of the hole to set them, and then tamp the posts in with gravel and whatever soil came out of the hole. The reason for this is that, in my experience, if concrete is poured all the way to the top of the hole, the posts get heaved up out of the ground when the ground freezes. The post hole is usually wider at the top, so concrete at the top gives the freezing and expanding ground something to push against, forcing the pists up. I've replaced many that have heaved up, and the ones I've done with little or no concrete stay put.
That just proves the point that region can dictate building technique. In my area, I rarely see any snow and never seen a post get heaved up out of the ground as you describe, but If I ever move to Alaska i'll keep it in mind.
The look of disgust when the reciprocating saw came out, lol. 😄
I love horizontal fences. They look great. It was the idea when we did our fence, but since one of the three sides of my yard is already bordered by my neighbors fence, we opted to match theirs so I wouldn't die from anxiety caused by mismatched fence 🤣 This fence looks amazing.
April is very talented and has a lot of great ideas. Great vid Joe!
P.s that digging looked brutal!
My grandpas cedar fence is 60 years old I’ve only replaced storm damaged sections. There was no rot in the cedar on concrete areas. Was able to pull them posts out with concrete on and reset them straight. Due to 50 plus years of wind.
She now the expert on “Assembly Required" with Tim Allen and Richard Karns. She is truly awesome and very inspiring.
She did a great job. I've built many a fence but never with that many steps. Always mixed ready mix in the hole with the post never used braces. Always used screws never nails. Always used post hole diggers and never an auger which has saved me from hitting utilities more than once despite them supposedly being marked. I would keep the top level and dig the ground down and come back with a saw to level off the bottom at the end. I'd knock out 300+ feet in less than 3 days by myself. 👍🏻
Out here in the hill country of Texas where she is, there is no chance to use a post hole digger. its solid rock less than a foot down.
@@enigma9789 if it's solid rock nothing will. Dig.
Post digger does work through what you think is solid rock. Use a bar and a digger..
@@thenarrator1984 I live 30 mins away from where that fence was built. unless you have a week and a jack hammer, you need someone with a skid steer and a drill.
@@enigma9789 you must work slow.
I have lived in the harshest till area you can imagine and I've managed to dig fences when needed.
Its definitely not "solid rock" solid rock is a term used for bedrock.
You can say it's hard till. But it ain't solid rock
@@thenarrator1984 bring out your post hole digger and rock bar then. I need several holes done.
@2:45 This was 40 years ago, but my father had a method where he would bore a 1 inch hole into the end of the post and pour engine oil into the end of the post, plug it up, and then set that end into the ground. The idea being that the oil would leach into the post and protect it from rot
He must have been doing something right because when I sold the house 30 years later these posts were all still there and as strong as ever.
How deep was that hole?m
@@queerdor About a foot.
Why am I watching a video of someone watching a video. Go April 👊
curiosity! lol!...
April rocked this. I saw your face when she pulled a few tricks. You were impressed!
Agreed, I think she did a great job!
I built my fence dry setting the poles, fill hole with post in it with dry concrete mix, jiggle post into final alignment, then pour in a bucket of water. It's solid after 15 years.
I have done it in a similar way except I would pour in the water first then the sackrete. Then I would use a stick to tamp it down to seat the post solidly.
I installed fence for years. We would tamp the posts in with dry concrete, and let mother nature do the rest of the work. On gate posts, we would always mix the concrete and let it set before hanging gates.
She uses the post saver sleeves now. Probably learned about them after this.
I dont know much about fence building, but i can tell its gonna be a beautiful looking thing
That is good advice on concrete delivery. In our local it's a bit cheaper than self-mix, excepting wait-time charges. I'm not sure how much extra time would be needed for so many small pours, but talk it over with the company before hand. They can be on a very tight schedule and may want to allot an additional delivery slot or two. This is where mix-on-site delivery can sometimes make more sense... small pour of undetermined size.
Great point!
I have a similar laser levelling system with a 3-axis laser. I use it for everything. Drywall, fencing, excavation, prep for brick-laying, setting out foundations and tons more.
Love it! Thanks for watching and weighing in!
Before digging, please call the local number (varies by state/county) to find out where underground lines are. I didn't hear it mentioned here, but it prevents heartache. Usually, it's needed when doing any project, but good idea even if it's a small project you are doing.
811 service (call811.com/) should be avail anywhere in the Continental United States (with a few exceptions) to request some one come out, then locate and mark the untilities. Canada has something similar also...
In my experience they always mark it wrong anyways, still a great idea to at least have the information as it may be right. But often it turns out that things have since been changed and not reported, or things are located wrong by the guy who comes out to check. Ive seen so many guys have the ground marked beforehand and then still manage to hit everything but a natrual gas line.
Concrete in post holes sits a bit high, need to leave some room at top of holes to replace with dirt. Here in Australia fencing contractors usually 'overlap' the rails and notch them into the posts for support, overlapping rails means never having joins in rails in a vertical line. Eg. top rail 6 m long middle rail 6 m long but offset to next two posts. Bottom rail 6 m long but offset to previous post. This adds great rigidity to the horizontal structure.
You know it's legit when there isn't much to say other than him agreeing.
That's a lot of material just to support the posts ... I like to put something like a flat paver in the bottom of the hole, make it easier to make those final level adjustments, protects post bottom once encased in concrete ... go ahead and use your horizontal supports (make sure all the same length) to level posts along the fence line ... then you just need supports for perpendicular to fence line.
I’m here watching you coz I see you interview D&project’s from the uk baby 🏴
The pleasure bro your a awesome dude to keep up the content !
There are a few reports coming out of the UK about the postsavers failing after less than 5 years. People are finding they don’t stay sealed to the post at the top and moisture and air get between it and the post.
Why not use metal posts, and box them in for looks? I think that would be more durable snd less expensive than cedar posts, especially for a vertical picket fence.
Honestly her methods are ALOT better then these “pro fence channels” on RUclips I’ve been watching. Way to go!
Thanks for watching, Hector!
Do you guys not have postmix? In the uk we have 25kg bags of the stuff, two bags per hole ( comes ready mixed ) . After a few hours it’s solid enough to hold the post with no bracing.. this seems really long winded. We drop the post in, levelled, postmix - done.
Looks awesome.
Great looking fence, the only thing i would do differently to prolong longevity would be to replace the nails with screws. A fence that tall and solid is going to take stress from even the lightest breeze, screws are better adapt to handle the constant buffeting that can loosen nails over time.
If you use ring shank nails they will hold three or so times the load and may be another good option to upgrade, but still have the speed of the nailer.
I live In Massachusetts and had a pvc fence installed in January of 2017 (Yes, snow on the ground). The installer just poured dry cement/concrete into the post holes. They claimed the moisture in the ground would be absorbed and harden. It seemed to work but just wanted to know if you have heard of this.
She is an awesome carpenter... Her step by step and knowledge is vast.
Instead of lasering each individual post "most lasers have a +,- 3mm tolerance to mitigate just mark every 3rd/4th post and straight edge or chalk line in-between... faster and more accurate.
April stated that she dipped the posts to cover the bottom three feet of every post with the preservative. When the posts were set, she had about a foot of preservative showing above grade. This means the posts are only set 1-1/2 to 2 feet below grade. Seems strange from Canada where fence posts are set four feet below grade below the frost line.
she is in Texas, there is no frost line.
@@rogerweaver7686 Yes, people in the northern states and Canada are amazed by the things that don't need to be done during construction in Texas and other southern states. At least, until Texas gets hit with a cold front, like in 2021, and their pipes burst, the electrical grid crashes and the whole state goes in the shitter. Doesn't Texas get fence eating hurricanes on occasions?
Just for the record.
Four feet isn't below the frost line it's just low enough for frost to not shift the posts
@@thenarrator1984 Not sure about that. Code requires water supply pipes to also be buried 4 ft. or more below grade to prevent their freezing.
@@chrisgraham2904 I installed pipe for a living.
I also repaired pipe when it froze....
Frost line is carried and diverse.
I've seen frost 15 feet deep. Big ice chunks.
I just built my first horizontal fence last week. Definitely a little different.
@@JoeEverest costumer loved it.
Wtf is a horizontal fence... A fence? As opposed to what a vertical fence???
April has use that rubber sleeves on other New Projects. April is the BEST ! 💖
She is on Tim Allen’s History channel show Some Assembly required that aired in February. I think 10 episodes. Just watched the video. She had to wait to tell her followers. Happy For her
I’ll have to check it out, I appreciate the heads up!
Ok, in Iowa, do you want the concrete to come up to ground level, or stop a couple inches under? I’ve heard that a couple inches under help lock in the fence when the ground starts to freeze, because the footing can’t heave up with the surface ground freezing first. On the other hand, this means dirt is in contact with the wood, even with treatment.
@@JoeEverest I have just installed some new Postsaver sleeves,they`re really great,so easy to use and so obvously a great solution to below-ground damp (and very importantly "above-ground" damp as long as the instructions are closely followed and at least 2" of the membrane stands proud of ground level!!).
@@mjh5437 they are an illusion. Moisture will transfer through and have nowhere to go
I want to build a 6 ft high horizontal fence using PostMaster steel fence post spaced a little less than 5'4" on center. In addition to the top and bottom 2 x 4 rails, I plan on adding a vertical 2 x 4 at midspan between each post. This will give me a location to fasten the horizontal boards about every 32". The reason for the 5'4" spacing of the fence post is that I would like to use 7/8" x 5-1/2" x 16 ft long composite wood hollow decking boards as the horizontal fence boards. This would allow the boards to be installed with butt joints every 16 ft. The reason for the hollow choice is to reduce the weight. They would all be attached with clips that connect to the edge grooves of the boards. Do you see any problems with this idea? I'm thinking of using a 2 x 6 bottom rail for extra support of the weight of the decking boards. Also, I was planning on using PT 2 x rails and pre-painting them to match the color of the deck boards. Is PT wood able to be painted or is the moisture content to high? Thanks in advance for your comments.
I think setting posts regardless of your method is the most important part of your build. Just like the foundation of your house. Get it right from the beginning. I’ve always been against setting wood in concrete but I do believe this fence will last for a long time
Whats your take on putting posts in concrete vs no concrete? I just had a fence done and we went with no concrete. I was told it can rot the wood worse than just planting it in the ground.
True it will not rot as fast but has less lateral load
I just had a fence put in and we went with no concrete as well
Love it!
Thanks, appreciate you watching!
Is it worth counting the bottom of post with black beauty using regular treating lumber
I'm enjoying this and I definitely enjoying your commentary and expert opinion. I definitely need to learn how to use a laser level better! one thing that I would do different when I set fence posts is I pour a couple of quarts of water into the hole then pour the bag of Quikrete straight into the hole then I set my post to level and I hold it in place literally for about a couple of minutes at level and it seems I've never had a post go off from that. And I usually use a bag and a half per hole that's a 50lb bag
Sounds like a great process, I appreciate you sharing it!
Where's part 2 lol .... I want to see the rest these has actually given me an idea for my next privacy fence I do
My only critique of this fence is that the posts didn't seem to be very deep in the ground for an 8 foot fence and also I think she'd have been much better off using screws rather than nails. Other than that, a beautiful job.
I do agree! In case if big storm and wind it will receive big hit like sail. Depth was good for six foots. But i am not expert...
In a bad winds post just break if in deeper. 6 of one half dozen of the other as to how deep you put them in.
@@scruffy6151 so I live in the windiest city in the world where 100km/hr winds are no big deal and I've never seen a post break off due to winds. I have however seen plenty of fences slump due to posts not sunk deep enough.
@@wojtek-33 Fair enough. I literally live in the windiest city in the world and we need to sink our posts in concrete with a minimum of 800mm depth.
So my 6 ft high horizontal fence. Do you recommend 6 or 8 ft post spacing?
Depends on the winds in your area, if I had any concern at all about wind I would go with 6’ spacing!
I think she's trying by stepping out and doing these different projects. Thing is she's not necessarily a builder so she's learning as she's going.
@@JoeEverest
I have usually learned my best lessons by messing up the first try.
That's exactly what she's doing she's learning as she goes. She studdies these things on the net sometimes or she sits down n plans them out and documents what she does mistakes and all and shares them with everyone so that they can see its not some mystical thing reserved for the secret societies. Anyone can do this.
I like cedar too, but expect 3 times the cost of treated lumber.
She's such a badass. What an inspiration! I love women who DIY the right way.
It looks nice
South Florida building code requires 4 foot on center for the fence posts. No in swing exterior doors, out swing doors only. Impact resistant laminated windows. 210 mph wind uplift capable foam adhesive for roof tiles. Hurricane building codes make our homes stupid expensive down here. Cha Ching!
"Now I'm gonna start by dipping 750 8-foot 4x4s into this liquid - Sounds like a shoulder workout, but it's not too bad. " Watching this just reinforces how much of an underachiever I am. Now have to use all my fence post wood money for therapy.
Joe, what did she mean by cut every other post? That 12 ftr sat in each cut right?
Hey Joe.....I just built a new fence at my home. Love your honesty on your channel....so if you get a chance, let me know what you think and if I could improve anything (12 video process). I was a framer for quite a while and fences were NOT something I did often. Thanks in advance.
I feel like I knew this was coming. Lol.
She should have dropped the tube with plastic liner down an extra post hole and dipped all the posts in that way. No overhead lifting.
why not use a gauge boards to space all the posts the same distance apart as you go?
Hey this is cool man. How often do you work with steel posts? We work 99% of the time with steel posts here in Holland. Cool to see some wood construction!
@@JoeEverest Oh very nice! Also very cool to see the different kind of methods you use! We are just getting started filming some of our projects! Would be so cool if you check em out.
Keep it safe and greets from Holland👍🏻
You can buy premixed concrete in a towable trailer instead of mixing bags yourself. Saves time if time is your prime concern, otherwise rent a mixer and do it yourself as she did, if money is your concern.
You can get a 10" wood blade for your jigsaw. (amazon of course). It's also useful for cutting campfire wood and you'd be surprised what you can cut with it while hunting.
Positive placement nailer is expensive. I'd use coated deck screws
Yeah, I'm late to the party, but who knows what YT suggestion criteria is.
Warning on laser measuring devices. Some are closer to nearest inch while others are close to an 1/8.
Look at accuracy to distance and do the math.
Honestly some are meant for estimating and not even rough carpentry.
Great point!
April is not only Beauty but also Brains. I love her thought process, DETAILED understanding in ways to build better and more economical. Probably a factor why she (didn’t use the SLEEVE approach over THE DIPPING) I hope this chic begins a world wide trade carpenter school for just women. Some Men have clearly slacked for too long as contractors and skimp the most important details of simple applications. The area in which I live is just horrible for the slap happy fashion work they finish with and then look at you like I expect $50 an hour or more for this labor cost. 😂 so now I do my own just like this woman bc at least I know I’m getting quality and thought out planning w follow through. Sprinkle sprinkle
Gj April,ty, gj on debreifing Joe,ty.
I evidently missed something. Why notch every other post at the top? The un notched middle post would throw your top board off by almost 2 inches. Or does it set on top of the middle post? Idk, like I said evidently I missed something but she had a beautiful fence
Joe ready to risk it all for April lol
Those 6x6x8' posts currently about $320 each in CT. That's almost $11k for her posts alone. #3 cedar boards would add another $8k. Add concrete, hardware, labor and you have one hell of a fence.
Those are 4x4s, they just look big because they're full dimension.
A 12' board would span 2 sections. Could have saved a LOT of cutting. Start first section with alternating 6' and 12' boards then all 12 footers until last section. Much more rigid too
First let me say I am not a fence builder but a deck builder. I love her work. It always looks great. How ever there are a few things I see a lot of fence builders and deck builders alike do that i would never do. Probably the biggest thing is using nails for anything. I know using structural screws and deck screws takes longer and costs a little more. How ever the quality of the work is far and away better imo. What is you opinion on that? the second thing is toe nailing or tow screwing. In my opinion that is a huge nono if you want a quality job. Do you have an opinion on that?
I indirectly work in the timber industry in SC. All of the lumber mills that I visit and all of the timber harvesters that I visit. Are cutting no less lumber and the mills have plenty of lumber to mill. There really isn't a limber shortage this is manufactured just like the gas shortage was
Shortage of wood my rear end sir, my lumber yard is chock full of the crap and we are now deny orders to get more until my stock is out. Maybe in some areas there are shortages but not overall.
@@JoeEverest Its odd I know the reasons behind it, but the justification of the price per piece is insanity borderline robbery
Could be wrong,but coatingthe bottom of post is a trap for all water and moistermthar penitrates from above, goodmin theory,
but I would argue they will rot much faster than untreate or coated. So many experts !
An ex is a has been, and a spert is a drip under pressure,lol.
Definitely get the pump truck if you have a huge fence
You seem to have an attraction to April Wilkerson
She does decent work and has a nice walk-through video process!
We never use concrete like this we use dry concrete and put in the hole than tamp it. Doing it this way allows water to seep down between concrete and post . I guess we g do it the way the log farmers did in the past. Now they have some kind of foam. But to each his own.
Started watching her when she had a teeny shop starting out abut then she started building decks onto her home at the time. She did a second story deck and stairs to ground that was not done to code - it wasn't even lagged to the building, just free standing. Then the sponsors started pouring in like Wranglerstar and I bailed. I think a lot of subs just like looking at her.
First strong wind verses 8' fence like to see that.
Your right. For 8 foot fences she should have used all 6x6, instead of 4x4. Even if she lucky and there is no wind, she will still get warping and twisting, from the fences weight. This also has to do with the fact that 4x4 are not 4x4 anymore, companies cheat and reduced them by a bit, there more like 3.6x3.6 and people were never smart enough to catch on.
@@exiledknight3961 she mentioned that she bought 12 footers and cut them down to 6 feet.
Does it make a difference that the slats are 3/4” rather than 5/8” and she alternated their placement, front to back?
I have to continue to remember, Joe is not in a orange prison jumpsuit.
Hey Joe, I like watching Aprils videos, however this one is not good. The cedar is excellent and I wish it was more accessible here in Scotland. The problem I have with this video is her posts are far too shallow, this fence will be down when a storm hits it. A fence post should be one third of its height below ground, in this case a minimum of 30 inches, looking at the stain mark, they look barely half that depth. As I said beautiful material, but used poorly. Like your interaction with D&J projects, another favourite of mine. Keep up the good work!
Beautiful fence! I disagree on the bracing method, though. Trying to solidly brace on a loose object braced on a loose object braced on a loose object, etc. etc. It would probably be fine if at least some of them had the concrete poured already.
Seen those around my Cleveland Ohio area.
Should have used a string line for the post layout
" bracing method makes a lot sense. ".... Come now, you it was genius. lol
she needed to rent a mini mixer trailer. We have them at our local material yard. Price was 140 per yard for 4000psi. It is a little less scientific so a fence or well tank pad are perfect jobs for the little trailer.
I like this idea a lot!
Don't have to have the concrete land right into the hole banging the post it can be scooped from near by not a big deal lol
@@JoeEverest would have been easier just with a wheelbarrow and taking shovel worths and placing it in the hole 🕳 considering you have to place it on all sides of the post for level placement
Shortage of timber in us aswel?
@@JoeEverest in the UK here. There is a shortage of most building materials atm. I was surprised when you mentioned you had issues in the USA as well covid got everyone building.
are they posing a shortage for a price increase cuz every train i see has logs on it
@@dancearoundtheworld5360 where u from
I appreciate her being so diligent measuring even the upright braces with a tape and laser but, that is overkill. I would have just made another story pole to mark the center, She took so much effort into the spacing of the posts the extreme accuracy of those center braces wasn't really needed. I do how ever understand that she is making a video and no matter how she does it some so called "EXPERT" like myself would make a comment. That all said she is a great craftsman.
Do you really need to use a full 2x4, why not half for perpendicular pieces
Why are the posts that shaky? Does not look that the fence could last a storm 😱
woodworkers are bad azz. Our fence, of course would always be bad azz compared to contractors! LOL
I hate exterior wood hardware that is only 1 1/2" deep. The last 1 1/2" of wood is so subject to rot and splitting that I always find failure there.
A lot of Dutch fences are horizontal the way they like it me thinks.
Interesting, thanks for watching!
Why did she drill the post holes so large? Could have used a smaller hole and one bag per hole, saving about $5 per post.
You would have to put the holes in more accurately though.
The typical rule of thumb for hole diameter is 3x the diameter of the post.
Shouldn't the finished side of the fence be facing the neighbor?
No F them
For mixing concrete the best way I know is to use a 6' x 6' tarp. Pour the bag of concrete onto the tarp, spray some water on, 2 guys holding the tarp slosh it back and forth and then pour it into the post holes or sonotubes for decks or fences. Quickest way I know of, and you can aim it into the holes easily and quickly.
4 days? Holy cow.
@@JoeEverest 😂🤣
Now i got to buy a laser tape measure geezz thanks 😔