The fence came out looking pretty good. I don't think I'm clear on what they needed the Dap chalk for though. Like you, I would've painted the posts prior to putting them into the concrete. If you're going to paint them it just makes sense and no masking either.
I'm not old enough to know if the way I have set a post in the past is the best way but it hasn't moved yet. I put three coats of primer on my posts to about 5cm above grade. Then I stick the post in concrete it so it goes under the post and come back later and paint the exposed primer above ground in a different colour that matches the surrounds(black or brown so far).
Im in Northen Vermont….we typically go down 4’ and also add a layer of blueboard with the post cut out and slid down from the top…keep under your soil by 8”-10”…Lastly…..we can get such deep frost the “ ice lens” can grip the post and heave it at just about any depth
When she said offset the seams i thought she meant the gap between the horizontal slats not the posts where her 8ft sections and 16ft sections tie in 😅 Awesome video 🤙
I am the weed trimmer from hel_. How can I protect the post from rot and the weed whacker? Also, I have this thing about water getting on my fence from the grass growing up next to the fence as I think this has a tendency to rot the bottom of the fence. I have taken the extra step of coming behind the fence installers install and cutting off about 1 inch from the ground to prevent water rot. Now, I have weed whacker rot. Any ideas to protect the bottom of the fence? I have about 500 pickets. Another problem I have is after 20 years and still standing the carpenter bees have decided they like two of my posts. I have the feeling they will like more. I know permethrin will discourage them and I stain my fence regularly. Any other ideas on how to discourage the little btards.
Hiya Joe! My question I have and no one addresses (that I can find) is, what horizontal boards look after 5 to 8+ of weathering. Let’s say they’re on typical 8’ centers. Does gravity or sagging start at some point? If you don’t know, I figure no one does 😉! Thanks!
From what I watched, they will bow in or out but sometimes in opposite directions. So brace the centers with a verticals support. It’s what I went with for my fence on 6 ft cedar pickets. No bowing yet.
It’s nice to look at. It’s beyond the fence that’s the issue. I guess it depends your location. My neighbor did this and I don’t feel like going in the backyard now as I feel it is shared space. It will keep his dog in but I am staring into their yard now. Not sure the point. It really ran me into the house.
Do you own your place there? If so you might be able to run boards across the gaps.. a bit like a shadowbox style fence.. If you are renting that's a bit annoying. At your own expense you could run something cheap and removalble along the fence.. like landscaping fabric that can be nailed onto it. Or you could invest in some planter boxes with fast growing bamboo (depending own where you live).
I would never again install my own fence when it can easily be done professionally in less than a day, depending on the size. But I enjoy watching these videos for some strange reason.
There are at least two common issues I consistently encounter when engaging in fencing projects, which are rarely addressed in instructional videos. Firstly, when it comes to installing pickets, I've observed individuals like Mr. Fence flawlessly installing eight-foot sections, ensuring perfect vertical alignment. However, the pickets I purchase tend to come bowed, resulting in uneven spacing and misaligned pickets. Do you pay attention to the crown side of the pickets and position them in a specific direction? I have experimented with various methods, such as using clamps to straighten them, but I'm curious if there is a more efficient approach, such as using a long clamp or jig. Secondly, I often struggle with maintaining precise spacing while laying out the posts. It would be convenient to drill all the post holes at once and subsequently install the posts. Unfortunately, no matter what technique I attempt, the spacing inevitably becomes inconsistent. Is there a trick or method you recommend to achieve exact spacing, or should I consider acquiring longer rails and cutting them down when the spacing deviates? Any guidance or suggestions regarding these two issues would be greatly appreciated.
Precision is difficult. The larger the hole you dig, the easier it is to fine tune the exact spacing. My most recent project I set the first post in concrete 2 days before the other holes were made. I used my rails to help determine the exact position of the post in the hole. I had the benefit of waiting because it was my own fence. Building for someone else may not allow that.
I'd actually already watched that video a little while ago, before this review and liked it. But, and this is just me, I'd have probably gone for steel or concrete posts personally. The initially higher cost is far offset by the increased longevity. I'd have also liked to see some vertical bracing of the horizontal pickets, maybe with 2x2's, to minimise the boards twisting and cupping over the coming years. But, other than that, a really nice job.
depth of the whole plus the level of the ground is never accurate from one post to another. if you cut it before you have no choice but to install it to the exact length you want your fence to be.
In many areas she has installed it facing the wrong way (posts on outside/finished side facing in). The junkyard probably won't care, but if code is to face finished side out, and a neighbor complains (why should they look at the backside of your fence), the homeowner could do all that work just have to rip it down. I'm surprised you didn't see/notice/know/warn about this.
It looks like the fencing is inside their walled compound, providing a visual barrier. In that case the finished side would face whichever directing the property owner would like.
just before it starts to sag between each 4x4, the post rot at ground level and the whole thing falls over preventing the horizontal boards from sagging
@@JoeEverest men of culture unite! But seriously it’s a great looking fence and I always appreciate your commentary! Keep up the great work! Huge fan of the channel
In a previous video Joe said his company uses Sakrete. In this video he said his company uses Quikrete. Did they change brands? Is there a quality difference between the brands?
We switched a little while ago, we did a couple test posts and could find a difference other than the quickrete was a good deal less expensive by the truckload.
I'm not sure she has an issue with moisture protection when they had to put a special chemical mix on the Corten steel they put on the house as its so dry where they are it didnt rust!
----- take 8 ft span + 2x horizontal slats + no vertical ties between posts : add sunlight + rain and other weather over time = bows, warps, and sagging all us folks who live out the country are going: " full 1/2 acre is a massive back yard ? -- barely enuff' fer a few chickens "
Even living in the country we had the back yard, "the barns", and then we had first/second/third/etc fields. The back yard was the section that was kept well mowed, treated, etc., while the fields were brushhogged. The backyard was closer to 1/2 acres. So I mean, to me, even from the country, it still made sense. Chickens werent in the backyard, they were by the barns. Guineas were in the backyard and barn areas though.
We don’t use them because we build horizontal styles out of dimensional lumber, when building with just pickets I could see how it would be beneficial.
I also enjoyed this video when it was first posted at RUclips, So much Ive watched it again.
I love the positive take on the review videos. It IS refreshing. Do you have to cherry pick which videos you review in order to not go negative??
That fence is really easy on the eyes. Replacing my gate this afternoon. Awesome information.
Agreed, thanks for watching and weighing in!
that lady is easier on the eyes
@@amsterdamr0x warped view.
@@BUTGOD-j1xThe blue hair is nature's way of saying danger. Just like the stripes on a snake or the bright colors of a poison frog.
I like this design and will most likely follow it when I draw out an estimate for part of my yard.
The fence came out looking pretty good. I don't think I'm clear on what they needed the Dap chalk for though. Like you, I would've painted the posts prior to putting them into the concrete. If you're going to paint them it just makes sense and no masking either.
My question is what grade screws and did the put crown up or down to stop the dip over time and good video
I'm not old enough to know if the way I have set a post in the past is the best way but it hasn't moved yet.
I put three coats of primer on my posts to about 5cm above grade. Then I stick the post in concrete it so it goes under the post and come back later and paint the exposed primer above ground in a different colour that matches the surrounds(black or brown so far).
I'm building a horizontal fence and would like a seemless installation of the boards. What nails should I use that will be easy to cover?
Im in Northen Vermont….we typically go down 4’ and also add a layer of blueboard with the post cut out and slid down from the top…keep under your soil by 8”-10”…Lastly…..we can get such deep frost the “ ice lens” can grip the post and heave it at just about any depth
It was surprising they didn't go down further because they cut a foot or more off the top that could have gone in the ground instead of in the bin.
hey Joe, I’m using 4x6x10, 33” in the ground 8’ on center . i’m leaning towards the 5/4deck boards for my horizontal rails . thoughts ?
Caulking on poat caps and on around posts where it goes into cement footing is a good practice
How much space in betwen support posts? What is a good distance to give your fence good integrity? Maybe I missed that bit.
@@sherihutchings for wood fences the standard is 8’ or less. For horizontal wood fences you typically see the spacing 4-6’ apart.
When she said offset the seams i thought she meant the gap between the horizontal slats not the posts where her 8ft sections and 16ft sections tie in 😅
Awesome video 🤙
shouldn't there be a small gap between the slats for expansion? Like what 1/16" on both sides?
I think expansion goes the width of the grain, not length.
I want to do the same but using 1x6 bender board has anyone used this?
I am the weed trimmer from hel_. How can I protect the post from rot and the weed whacker? Also, I have this thing about water getting on my fence from the grass growing up next to the fence as I think this has a tendency to rot the bottom of the fence. I have taken the extra step of coming behind the fence installers install and cutting off about 1 inch from the ground to prevent water rot. Now, I have weed whacker rot. Any ideas to protect the bottom of the fence? I have about 500 pickets. Another problem I have is after 20 years and still standing the carpenter bees have decided they like two of my posts. I have the feeling they will like more. I know permethrin will discourage them and I stain my fence regularly. Any other ideas on how to discourage the little btards.
Well done Alicia and Bryce, expert approval
Where is the link to the original video?
The originally video’s link is in the description. Great question, appreciate you watching!
@@JoeEverest Is doesn't seem to be the correct link
Hiya Joe! My question I have and no one addresses (that I can find) is, what horizontal boards look after 5 to 8+ of weathering. Let’s say they’re on typical 8’ centers. Does gravity or sagging start at some point? If you don’t know, I figure no one does 😉! Thanks!
From what I watched, they will bow in or out but sometimes in opposite directions. So brace the centers with a verticals support. It’s what I went with for my fence on 6 ft cedar pickets. No bowing yet.
It’s nice to look at. It’s beyond the fence that’s the issue. I guess it depends your location. My neighbor did this and I don’t feel like going in the backyard now as I feel it is shared space. It will keep his dog in but I am staring into their yard now. Not sure the point. It really ran me into the house.
Do you own your place there? If so you might be able to run boards across the gaps.. a bit like a shadowbox style fence.. If you are renting that's a bit annoying. At your own expense you could run something cheap and removalble along the fence.. like landscaping fabric that can be nailed onto it. Or you could invest in some planter boxes with fast growing bamboo (depending own where you live).
"Wind sail" is the term i think at least in treework i have heard
I would never again install my own fence when it can easily be done professionally in less than a day, depending on the size. But I enjoy watching these videos for some strange reason.
Very nice reaction Video.....
There are at least two common issues I consistently encounter when engaging in fencing projects, which are rarely addressed in instructional videos. Firstly, when it comes to installing pickets, I've observed individuals like Mr. Fence flawlessly installing eight-foot sections, ensuring perfect vertical alignment. However, the pickets I purchase tend to come bowed, resulting in uneven spacing and misaligned pickets. Do you pay attention to the crown side of the pickets and position them in a specific direction? I have experimented with various methods, such as using clamps to straighten them, but I'm curious if there is a more efficient approach, such as using a long clamp or jig.
Secondly, I often struggle with maintaining precise spacing while laying out the posts. It would be convenient to drill all the post holes at once and subsequently install the posts. Unfortunately, no matter what technique I attempt, the spacing inevitably becomes inconsistent. Is there a trick or method you recommend to achieve exact spacing, or should I consider acquiring longer rails and cutting them down when the spacing deviates?
Any guidance or suggestions regarding these two issues would be greatly appreciated.
Precision is difficult. The larger the hole you dig, the easier it is to fine tune the exact spacing. My most recent project I set the first post in concrete 2 days before the other holes were made. I used my rails to help determine the exact position of the post in the hole. I had the benefit of waiting because it was my own fence. Building for someone else may not allow that.
Comical review sir well done
I'd actually already watched that video a little while ago, before this review and liked it.
But, and this is just me, I'd have probably gone for steel or concrete posts personally.
The initially higher cost is far offset by the increased longevity.
I'd have also liked to see some vertical bracing of the horizontal pickets, maybe with 2x2's, to minimise the boards twisting and cupping over the coming years.
But, other than that, a really nice job.
Steel posts would have been a good improvement!
Definitely need 2x2 it already got a bunch of board out of alignment already
@@FlyNRyanfpv absolutely got to be done. Timber does some weird and wonderful things.
Go Bolts! ⚡️
Needs 2×2 to help keep the spacing and board alignment
Go Bolts! Hopefully better next year!
Hey Joe I just started my fence company 2 weeks ago and I have never bit to demo 6-foot privacy what is a good number for 8-foot section
2 time material cost.
My thing why cut the post when in ground .
Can’t you cut them before you put it in ground
depth of the whole plus the level of the ground is never accurate from one post to another. if you cut it before you have no choice but to install it to the exact length you want your fence to be.
In many areas she has installed it facing the wrong way (posts on outside/finished side facing in). The junkyard probably won't care, but if code is to face finished side out, and a neighbor complains (why should they look at the backside of your fence), the homeowner could do all that work just have to rip it down. I'm surprised you didn't see/notice/know/warn about this.
It looks like the fencing is inside their walled compound, providing a visual barrier. In that case the finished side would face whichever directing the property owner would like.
just before it starts to sag between each 4x4, the post rot at ground level and the whole thing falls over preventing the horizontal boards from sagging
Aren’t these fences prone to warping?
I like it but its over kill and a waste when they already have a brick wall around their property
But they want to divide it up some. If that's what you want to do, it isn't a waste.
Alrighty, new video
Thanks for watching!
I think half of YouYube clicked on this one when it came out originally 👀👀🥵
Guilty!
@@JoeEverest men of culture unite! But seriously it’s a great looking fence and I always appreciate your commentary! Keep up the great work! Huge fan of the channel
@@chrisglenn2096☝️🤓 hello fellow sir *redditeur. Tips fedora* I see you have quite an exquisite taste 😌
In a previous video Joe said his company uses Sakrete. In this video he said his company uses Quikrete. Did they change brands? Is there a quality difference between the brands?
We switched a little while ago, we did a couple test posts and could find a difference other than the quickrete was a good deal less expensive by the truckload.
I'm not sure she has an issue with moisture protection when they had to put a special chemical mix on the Corten steel they put on the house as its so dry where they are it didnt rust!
Fair point!
AZ is like that....
I doubt there is enough water there to rot anything
Deep pockets
💯
I think i woulda did posts on 6.ft centers
Fair point, appreciate you watching and weighing in!
Lay boards together so you don't waste
----- take 8 ft span + 2x horizontal slats + no vertical ties between posts : add sunlight + rain and other weather over time = bows, warps, and sagging
all us folks who live out the country are going: " full 1/2 acre is a massive back yard ? -- barely enuff' fer a few chickens "
Even living in the country we had the back yard, "the barns", and then we had first/second/third/etc fields. The back yard was the section that was kept well mowed, treated, etc., while the fields were brushhogged. The backyard was closer to 1/2 acres. So I mean, to me, even from the country, it still made sense. Chickens werent in the backyard, they were by the barns. Guineas were in the backyard and barn areas though.
She used one of the worst stains possible.
Nia fob FOR Them and For you
I've seen a few of these put up on new places near me - the ones I've seen end up totally warped and broken inside 2 years...!
Then whoever built them didn’t know what they were doing
Horizontal fences look like the walls of a WW1 trench... 🤐
Pressure treated wood is cheaper and will last longer . Hope those posts were pressure treated
Not bad for someone with blue hair
Ha ha.
Oh dear Lord, I wish she would’ve had a tank top on😊
Don’t lie you watched because of her 🤣🤣
You must live in Michigan.....this chick is not that attractive. Pretty much like Michigan women.
Is that her natural hair color?
why is the best? i think its the easiest. i want privacy. it means no gaps.
you dont know if bracing is necessary? we trying to learn smthing here...if u dont know, why am I watching your video?
We don’t use them because we build horizontal styles out of dimensional lumber, when building with just pickets I could see how it would be beneficial.