Subaru Legacy 3.0 Timing Assembly Replacement Part 3: Finnishing it

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  • Опубликовано: 5 янв 2025

Комментарии • 16

  • @jmy6050
    @jmy6050 7 месяцев назад +1

    Actually they recommend on the instructions to allow the silicone to dry for up to an hour after you have put the components together and just nipped them up. Then you can tighten all the way to spec torque. This is so you don't push all the sealant out when it is still very soft, if you tighten everything up straight away.

  • @jmy6050
    @jmy6050 5 месяцев назад

    I suggest using a light weight grease or even vasaline on the gears and guides. Oil will run down and onto your timing cover and mess with the sealant you've put on there.

  • @GarrettHimebauch
    @GarrettHimebauch Год назад +1

    Hey, just so everyone knows. You are able to break the cam bolts loose by putting a socket and ratchet on the crank bolt before taking the timing chain off. Hope this helps someone, instead of buying a special tool or making one.

  • @baldemaroo
    @baldemaroo 7 дней назад

    Kul med svensk ez30 video !

  • @emmanuelromero9370
    @emmanuelromero9370 Год назад

    Thanks for all the help.

  • @spragx
    @spragx Год назад

    Hi did you determine which component was causing the rattle-had the tensioner failed? I’ve swapped a salvage engine into mine and it’s rattling from below the power steering pump and I’m not sure if it’s chain or the vvt pulley? It’s worse with a hot engine.
    No oil leaks though, I did replace the seal in the power steering pump- it uses the same seal as a MR2 oil pump and a fairly easy job once you realise you don’t remove the pulley but open the pump from the rear!

  • @mrnicktoyou
    @mrnicktoyou Год назад

    What is the sealant that you used for the rear cover? I'm trying to find it but Subaru has so many different types.

  • @edangelletly2928
    @edangelletly2928 Год назад

    Is the small seal needed on the inside of the cover or the outside in between the cover and bolt?

  • @Rickc.137
    @Rickc.137 Год назад

    Where you buy the parts at

  • @iamram93
    @iamram93 3 года назад +2

    Hey dude, did you find out what caused the new leak? I just resealed my rear cover as well and now it looks like it’s leaking from a o-ring at the rear in front of the oil pan. Such a crazy job and amount of labour. Also cleaning the surfaces is so tedious

    • @cactusapesgarage6580
      @cactusapesgarage6580  2 года назад

      Hey! Actually I have had to put if off for a long time, I re-did the work again off camera because I thought filming it was the problem (that the RTV managed to cure to much while repositioning the camera etc.) but the problem still persists. So I'm going to remove the engine and re-seal the entire thing while also inspecting pistons/bores and change valve seals n such.
      My suspicion is now that it leaks at the seam in the block.
      That is going to be in a video though.

    • @shalopez420
      @shalopez420 2 года назад

      I'm working on this engine myself in a 2006 Tribeca. Have you changed your oil cooler seal? They commonly swell and leak with age.

    • @GarrettHimebauch
      @GarrettHimebauch Год назад

      Having the same issue.... lol

  • @TheMemo1776
    @TheMemo1776 3 года назад

    i can’t find part 1 video

  • @Matt2chee
    @Matt2chee 2 года назад

    I do the cam bolts differently. You need strap wrenches in your life.

  • @unzulaessig
    @unzulaessig 3 года назад

    yeah, you got me dutt the dab :)