My 2004 OBW Limited (EJ259 engine) had the A/C clutch wear issue. Your video stopped me from pulling the trigger on an $800 repair estimate. I spent $5.35 in the screws to press off and on the clutch. I had the tools to properly measure and adjust the gap. That was three years ago. My A/C still works well. I subscribed back then. I watch all your vids. I appreciate your production techniques so much more than the other goofballs that need to see themselves on screen in their vids. Thank you.
Yes I've done near on 300,000kms in H6 EZ30 motors ... last 10yrs+ bullet proof if you service every 10,000kms and run good oil 5W-40 fully S.. and high end oil + paper air filters and run 95+ octane min fuels ...
Have to agree. Didn’t think how much problems could occur by not checking and replacing it. Great explanation as well MrSubaru. Clear and straight to the point. Love your videos.
Having now owned both Subarus with a 2.5 n/a and a 2.5L Turbo ej motors, I’d like to try an ‘08-‘09 Outback 3.0R L.L. Bean motor. Compared to the overheating H/G issues on the N/As and the banjo bolts issues which can destroy the turbo motors, it seems the ez30 3.0 oil leak and other issues are really minor compared to the concerns that plague the ej motors. Great video as always Mr. Subaru!
I am getting ready to drive 3 hours to look at a 2010 Outback 3.6R with 84k miles and your videos have been extremely helpful! Thank you so much, really. I hope it all works out and I will bring my new-found education into the pre-purchase inspection and hope for the best. Sincerely, Honda technician who knows nothing about Subarus!
wow ive been watching for years and working on my 96 outback. I never really thought about that relationship between the pcv valve and oil leaks, that really interesting and totally makes sense!
Unbelievably informative video, thank you for this and the rest of your videos. I took my 06 LLB to the dealer to get aligned, they saw oil and said I needed a complete engine reseal to the tune of $3k. Super curious to see if replacing the PCV valve and oil cooler O-Ring keeps everything clean down there. Sounds like proactively replacing the tensioner pulley if not the entire tensioner might not be a bad idea, either. Fantastic work and thank you for that.
Got 08 legacy 3.0r and pcv was clogged causing oil cooler ring leak and the tensioner rattled also couple other small things easy fixes but got great deal on it becuz of these
I cannot thank you enough for these videos. When I have to talk to a mechanic about my 2013 Outback I am speaking as someone who understands what is going to be done rather than some un-empowered woman who knows nothing. I'm proactive on these repairs rather than waiting until they break.
Just got a new ez30 for my outback. Last one had a thermastat and radiator failure, got hot (didn't get to red even) and blew the head gasket. Wasn't even that bad until I took it to the mechanics to get diagnosed. After I took it to them it was undriveable.
MrSubaru, great video thank you. I am not a Subaru guy, meaning I have not worked with them in the past. A friend of mine as enlisted my help with his 08 3.0R which I think is the 3z 36.. idk you would know better. Anyway, short story is the car blew oil all over, I mean from the under side of the hood to the exhaust all on driver side.. I first ran the car with no air intake, open throttle body ( because he remove all that before I got to it) and I was searching for a massive oil leak.. much to my surprise, no leaking oil, anywhere.. however, the engine is blowing what looks like white smoke out of the hose that goes from intake box to valve cover, as well as the dipstick tube and oil cap ( if you loosen it) So my first thought was PCV, I replaced that. It's still blowing white smoke out anywhere it can... I am 98% sure there is a clog in the flow of the pcv system, question is, where? In the intake manifold? Or in the block? I'm pretty sure the pcv vavle clogged up and caused the oil to blow out the dipstick tube.. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated, sorry for the long/short story lol
Enjoy your videos! My stepson just bought on 03 Outback H6. I am very familiar with the EJ series ( I have done maintenance and repairs on many EJs) but new too the EZ30. This particular video is very helpful he currently has squeaking coming from the tensioner. Good too know this and other issues listed are common. I will replace his PCV while im at it.
Not sure I'd recommend it...but you can kinda-sorta "oil" the bearing. I had my idler (not tensioner) started making bad noises and found it almost seized, the parts available local turned out to be the wrong size so I had to order and wait a week. In the meantime I had to drive...so I soaked the thing in oil and worked it back and forth until it spun free, bought me enough time for parts to arrive. Not recommended...but beats having it fully seize when you have no other option.
Just push the bearing out from the idler and press a new one in - it's a standard size, ten bucks. Replace both the tensioner and idler pulley bearings as they both wear.
I’ve seen a handful of nissan VQ40 engines in xterras/frontiers/pathfinders/equators have the PCV stick wide open and cause colossal oil consumption, usually less than 50 miles to burn one quart
My 06 outback 3.0 has a bad leak on the rear timing cover. Took off everything but haven't taken the rear cover off yet, was waiting on new bolts as 4 of the bolts on the oil pump had to get drilled out. Good bet that that valve is clogged on mine, didn't know it existed :(. Oh well glad I found this before we put it back together and blew the seals out again.
Pcv valve was fine. Just a oring swelled some and hardened . Bad oring right where the leak was so hoping that's all. Covers back on and curing. Don't want to do this again lol.
Notice none of these issues are particularly catastrophic unlike the common EJ failures. That's because the EZ is the king of Subaru engines. I recently sold my last EJ powered Subaru and it's like a weight off the shoulders. Have a 2002 EZ30D Outback with a 5 speed that I daily at 193k and a 2012 3.6R with 242k that is also daily driven, and just picked up a 2011 3.6R with 258k to fix up. The 3.6 is the cream of the crop. The 30D did have a water pump failure where the pump housing had a ton of corrosion buildup over the O-ring in the bore it fits into, but I attribute that to owner neglect. Shame they decided to go back to a turbo four for the premium engine option but that's the way ICE is going these days.
I took my '13 Outback 3.6R to a shop because it is leaking oil. It was a Subaru specific shop; the owner told he would not work on my car because the EZ36 engine has proprietary parts/and tools that he needs to work on it and that he was not properly trained on it. Thought that was kind of odd.
I replaced a '13 legacy cvt a week ago. Sealed unit dead@ 102k... no warranty available. There's almost nothing proprietary to the 3.6 vs the 3.0 tool wise. I have no problem doing dealer reject work. Newer clean cars are easy to work on, bring 'em on!
168k miles on my 2011 OB 3.6R. 4500-5000 mile OCI's with synthetic and it still runs great. My serpentine belt pulley actually went bad at 105k. But I replaced the pulley alone and put in a Continental Gatorback belt and all has been great.
Nice video. I had an oil leak on my 2012 outback 3.6R. After I replaced the PCV valve, the leak stopped. When do you recommend to replace the PCV valve? I don’t see anything on PCV valve replacement intervals in the owner’s manual . Thanks
Good point - I’ve just bought an MY10 3.6 5sp Auto with less than perfect maintenance history but only 170km on it, and no sign of oil leaks. Drives like a dream. I was planning on getting the gearbox, diffs oil changed. Looks like good idea to get new PCV fitted while it’s in the workshop, and have them check the a/c clutch clearance.
Great info as usual bro, I actually have a question for you, what's the most common cause of the (tgv) tumbler generator valve giving problems on the ej255?
Not sure if you will answer this. I'm trying to find out if the EZ 36 can mount to my FA 20's transmission. Or if an EG 33 can? I know it's a huge amount of work to make a swap. So if I can at least keep what I can to make it a little less work.
I had no idea about the requirement for pcv valve maintenance. Would you recommend putting an anti-seize compound on the threads when reinstalling the valve? Thanks for your great videos.
Hello Mrsubaru. I have 2006 b9 tribeca I tell you my experienced I was confused in 2016 middle of May at around 11pm I traveled from NY to NJ and my serpentine belt broke up still original belt since. It broke up after I cross the verrazzano bridge then I pulled over and shut the engine off. When I turn the car on it start again and I started moving and run the car without serpentine belt to exit 102 NJ. that over 50miles but after 30 minutes of driving everything was down most are electricals I’m in the middle of Garden State highway driving without lights and panels are black out. What I did was stupid and risky but my car saved me. I’m not sure if I have an angel or it is a car is my angel. Until now I still have my car but the engine is started leaking I’m thinking to change the motor and hoping if you can make a video how to swap engine. Thanks and more power...
well, this is the knowledge i need, thank you. im having an issue with i think its atf fluid getting in my radiator. can u maybe help me understand that? also im having an oil leak, i think its oil, in-between on bottom or near the bottom engine & radiator? im pretty sure the pcv valve hasnt ever been changed. i just bought this car & i didnt notice all theses problems b4 hand. also it runs really hot. but not all the time. plz help if ur able. im going broke on this thing. thank you
Such great info-- I have a major leak that right through a gap right in front of the oil pan. I looked at the PCV valve and while it is working (suck test) it looks dirty and I think that might of been the problem. Once a leak occurs I suppose that changing the PCV valve is too late, correct??? I am worried that my timing chain cover is blown and don't have the $700 bucks to repair.
My EZ36 during a trip had the bearing wear out on the Idler pulley and throw the belt. I wonder if this means that when they did the 60k mile belt replacement if they just didn't swap the tensioner and idler out. It's right at 85k miles now. I'm starting to check and redo all of the old maintenance on this car now that I no longer trust the maintenance done by the prior owner. I've done the differential servicing already, and I'm going to go ahead and get an official bearing kit to replace the aftermarket one I had to install on the road, and have them replace the PCV soon.
Regular oil & filter change and keep an eye on the oil level as they do use some. You will need to replace the cam cover seals as they all leak eventually. Check PCV valve occasionally. Replace serpentine belt idler and tensioner bearings maybe every 200,000km and the thermostat too (ensure it is installed the right way round & up, and is OEM). Also check the steel coolant line that runs across the bottom of the timing cover to the oil cooler - ours pinholed from the outside where the support tab is welded. Our '05 Outback has 330,000km on it and still runs nicely otherwise.
About to buy one as well…. The engine and the interior design is much nicer in my opinion than the big I pad with auto start stop… I am confident in this car but I have heard plenty of “these engines are bulletproof, stay on top of everything and you’re good, these last a long time” contrasted with “the transmission locked on me, oil leaking at 70k miles” 😂
I wish they kept offering their newer cars with the older looking style system, and with physical x mode buttons, and the H6…. Alas…. My last Outback kept me safe in multiple situations so I’m a fan.
Obviously older engines are harder to find parts for... That being said, is there any after market parts that fox these issues? Any retrofitting parts from other ej's maybe?
Hello, newer to the Subaru community. Love your content here and on tiktok. Just got a 2015 Subaru outback 3.6. Where can I get a factory service manual or good equivalent. Would love to do some work and get things done correctly. Any help is appreciated!
2006 Subaru Outback 3.0 h6 has overheated replaced the radiator as it was leaking and thermostat just in case! I did a test with that blue liquid and it never changed colors! Then did a pressure test on radiator and more leaks was found on the water return line in process of replacing that but on my back! I heard to jack engine up but remove the mount bolts and or if need more room take headers off! Now headers are right in way can I just do these vs jacking up engine?? Can I reuse the gaskets?? How can I get to the mount bolts easily?? Special tools ideas on back so hard to get a straight look at the bolts on mounts!
I actually was consuming a bunch of oil on my EZ36 because of the PCV valve. Replaced it and now only going through maybe a quart every 3k. I'm also noticing a bit of oil around the top of my timing case. Nothing serious just a bit of seepage. I'm at 100k miles now. I haven't seen any leaks pop up under yet. When should I worry about resealing? Once it becomes a huge mess?
Personal preference. I've got quite a few seepage areas on my 02 L.L.Bean EZ30D. I'm at 290k, plan to pull the engine and reseal it at 300k. I'd say if the seepage becomes a leak, it's time to reseal it asap.
thanks for the video! I love your content and you've helped me on numerous repairs. I'm about to pull my h6 engine to do some pre-emptive maintenance (timing chain and water pump). However, I was curious what your thoughts are on doing the head gaskets while it's out? Is it worth it? I know head gaskets blowing on these is rare, but when I've been underneath the car I have seen some very very small green spots around the head gasket area. I wiped it clean and haven't seen anything since, also I check the radiator fluid often and it's completely clean. thanks!
Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge! I recently bought a eudm spec B -04 with the ez30 engine that has what sounds like valve-train niose. It had been sitting for about 3 years before i got my hands in it, and i have changed oil twice before i did an engine flush and then fresh oil again. It sounds lika single valve is "knocking" from the right engine bank, sometimes louder other times it almost goes quiet but there is always noise. A local subie shop guessed that it would be valve seals and quoted a minimum of $1500 for fixing it, but also said that it should be fine to keep with driving it. I would greatly appreciate some input if you have any, and is there something else i should have them do if or when they start pulling the engine? It's a great car but i feel bad pushing it just knowing that the valve is ticking away while i do it.. Once again great info in the videos, i am looking forward to keep learning!
Hey mate I have a 2005 liberty r-b with the ez30 and I have the same problem with a ticking noice coming from the right hand side of the engine. It is quite on cold starts but when on warm idle it becomes very loud. I was wondering if you got yours fixed and if it fixed the problem?
@@simeonfazio1489 hey! No sadly I never got it fixed, but I talked to the previous owner and the tick have been there for almost 100 000 km now so it does not seem to be an big issue. But I have researched quite a bit, talked to mechanics etc, and the consensus seen to be carbon buildup on the valves, so I have been thinking about using a spray or fuel additive to try and combat it. Otherwise you can find a place that does cork-blasting in direct injected engines, as they seem to have the same issue with carbon buildup like the newer BMWs or Minis. Our you can turn it in to a local engine shop to remove the heads and either put in new valves or refresh the old ones :) sorry for a wall of text haha, but I hope you got some more insight! Needless to say this is of course only if this is the exact same issue that I have, but it seems like pretty common problem worth the ez30
@@filiparnqvist3218 thanks for the reply bro, luckily it was only dodgy spark plugs that had come loose over time letting out some compression. She runs all g now with 240k on the clock. I probably need to stop redline every shift lol.
I'm getting ready to purchase a used low mileage EZ36 eng and trans to replace mine in my 2012 Outback project car. Planning on doing a Raptor Super Charger in the near future. What would you recommend doing on a used replacement motor other than plugs, water pump, valve cover gaskets, & idler pulley assy of course! lol Was wondering if it would be worth upgrading to fel-pro head gaskets prior to install? Any input woul;d be amazing! Thanks, your vids are amazingly helpful!
Thanks for the vid... great as usual and very helpful... i have a brake line leak on my 01 OBW VDC... i was wondering how hard of a repair this is, and what needs to be replaced... its leaking underneath the rear passenger doo, on front of the rear pass wheel. Its covered by a cover with a few bolts, and I'm told the line that is leaking, connects to a "junction block"... how hard of a repair is this and what needs to be replaced? Thanks!
Thanks for this! You should make one detailed video about failing head gaskets on theese engines. An issue that is way more serious than anything else.
I agree that EJ`s are weaker from this point of view but still - in My opinion leaking HG`s on EZ30 second generation from MY2003 are a problem. I`ve seen two tribecas, one Outback and one Legacy in past three years with various HG failing stages in my garage, but with similar simpthom`s - exhaust gases in cooling system. At first there`s no sign`s of a problem because cooling system can handle little amount of air bubbles, then radiator can start to leak (replace that). Then it starts to spit coolant from overflow tank resulting in not enough coolant in the system and overheating at idle because of bad circulation (replace radiator cap, but soon realise there`s no improvement), then replace thermostat (no improvement) and at this point owner usually is facing the hard truth about failed head gasket. It`s just my experience, although i do adore these engines.
Question for you... I just picked up an 02 LL Bean with the H6 217k miles. Has on overheating issue. It only overheats when you drive for 20-30 mins. Will cool itself down when you go to idle even if the AC is on. I'm familiar with he EJ engines. In my deductive reasoning I would assume water pump, but with it being timing driven it is out of my scope of replacement. I don't want to drop that kind of money without knowing that it will fix it and the mechanics around me aren't that great when it comes to diagnosing. The first one I talked to said head-gasket without even lifting the hood and tried to tell me that it is common on Subs buuuuut I worked at Subaru as an advisor for years and this is not common on the H6. Thoughts?
Quick question...11' 3.6 120k I just bought every coolant hose they make. The 2 hoses under the intake at the front that go to each head...How on earth do I get those off? Any special tools I need so I dont have to remove that intake? :( Thanks!
Will the pcv cause a sound like big pressure or hiss sound when the car starts. Our has been getting louder and now doesn’t like to start right away the first time after sitting.
I have a question on what your thoughts are on not rebuilding the bottom end of the engine if I'm pulling it out the only issue I'm having is it's mixing exhaust gases causing the coolant to overflow my suspicion is that bad head gaskets want to replace everything on the top end and throw the motor back in recommended or not recommended is my question thank you I love your videos and you've been a godsend on helping me keep my Subarus on the road
Do you have any videos on lifters on these engines i will be rebuilding one of these for my buddy and just curious about what im going to run into there.
What is the correct head torque sequence on the 2001 ez30d? I have found 2 vastly differnt sequence's floating around the web- the one dirtcheapdaily used and the one in the 2001 service manuel. Has subaru updated it or was dirt cheap's later model ez30 call for different steps? Thanks man!
hola mister como conoces muchos los autos subaru y tienes mucha experiencia, que motores subaru son mas confiable y duraderos en promedio ? 1) serie EJ 20 y EJ25 2) serie FA Y FB 3) serie EZ30 y EZ36 espero me puedas dar tu opinion saludos
Thanks for the video! Like you said in the video, Didn't know about the pcv vavle. I'mma buy a replacement for my next oil change. does the pcv valve need to be pressurised? Or can it vent freely? thanks alot!
@@MrSubaru1387 you would think it would be an easy for car makers to wire in a pressure sensor to turn on a dash light if it was blocked but that probably hurts the profits of the service shop 😂
Any good videos removing the rear timing cover? Have all the bolts out, water pump and oil pump. Just etc holding it at this point or anything else? Any tips would be great
Unrelated subaru question: I have a plethora of C-Codes for the ABS system on my 06 Outback. I need to clear them to see what is historical and what still may be coming back, any way to do this without a dealer visit? I know how to read the DTCs with the trip/odo trick but no luck on clearing, even with a hard reset or FreeSSM.
MrSubaru looking at the videos for the EZ36 timing chain replacement, I don’t not see holding the cams when the chain is removed. Will the cams rotate due to spring pressures? Is there a holder for the gears not to move? I have 100k on my 2010 OBW and assume the chains should be replaced. Thanks for the videos and guidance.
The chains aren't replaced as normal wear items like a timing belt. They're ruled lifetime or 300k miles by Subaru. You only service the chain when you have an issue, like; water pump leak, chain noise, loose guides, etc.
@@MrSubaru1387 So that water pump.... its timing chain driven. Scotty just ridiculed Nissan and Subaru for using timing chain driven water pumps, and the potential for coolant to leak into oil that comes with that, basically destroying the engine by rusting the main bearings. I've never heard of this issue happening to a Subaru, and I have driven them for 27 years, although I've only had EA82, EJ22, EJ25 and now FB25 engines. I am looking at a low mileage 2018 Outback Premier 3.6 (Premier is the top of the line Canadian model, which I believe is the Touring model in the USA, whereas in Canada the Touring model is the well equipped middle of the line model). I've never heard of a water pump issue on an EZ, and I have some friends with some of the original EZ30's, the 212HP models. I seem to recall that the water pump has a seepage hole to the outside, so that will leak coolant to the outside before it can leak into the timing cover, is this correct? and have you ever done a EZ36 water pump earlier than 200K? I was considering the new turbo, but I don't like turbo's for all the issues they bring into the equation, and I tow a small trailer (Aliner hardside popup, 2100lbs fully loaded), so the idea of being on boost up long hills is not appealing. My FB25 does fine towing, much better than my previous Ej25 with the manual transmission. So I am thinking that I can get just a bit more power without a Turbo, and at about $17k less than a new one. But that water pump sticks in the back of my mind, especially since I first saw the FB engine on display in 2008 where I noted the accessory driven water pump, a return to what the EA82 had. I had no issues with the timing belt driven water pumps as I changed idlers, tensioner, and water pump with the belt each time.
Correct, the weep hole is external. It won't mix coolant and oil, unless the water pump o-ring goes. Haven't seen that happen. Haven't replaced an H6 water pump. I replace the engines first, due to owner neglect. I rarely see any issues with the H6, unlike the several common issues on the EJs.
I came here because i have a gt86. Technically a BRZ dressed as a yota. And was thinking what if. I engine swap FA20 with THIS. then im like OK IM STARTING TO SEE ITS NOT ALL THAT EASY
My ac compressor has seized on my ez30d engine. Can i put the compressor that not has this sensor on it? Cus i got one and i saw it was the same compressor but it did not have this revolution sensor on it and the weel looked diffrent, but i guess i can change the weel.
The chasis and the gearboxes on subies are like lego;) plug and play almost:)... 3.0 r apec b here going strong at 230K km:) engine not opened once!... I need to change those gaskets and the chain i think... Just to have 220k no wories km-s more;D ... Not bad for 2005 made engine:)
Hi! I have a 2006 2.0X 158 hp naturally aspirated Forester (made for the european market, if it has any significance). I just changed all the filters (except the gasoline filter because I cannot find it), the oil (Motul 8100 5W30), and the spark plugs (it took me and my dad 3 hours) to NGK 6481 iridium (same as the old ones) and cleaned the airflow sensor with Liquy Molly airflow sensor cleaner (don't know if it was dirty or not, just sprayer a couple times on it). The gas consumption went from 10-10.5 l / 100 km (23.5-22.5 mpg) to 12.4 l/ 100 km (19 mpg). I went a couple miles in deeper snow too, but is this normal after the sensor cleaning + oil-filter-spark plug change to have this gas mileage? Or is there a way to overtorque/ undertorque the sparkplugs to make consumption problems or engine problems? (I had no torque wrench) The engine runs smoothly and there was no change in my driving style, the only difference was 3-4 miles in a deeper snow on a forest road. My other question is with the cabin lights. I'd like the lights to turn on when I unlock the car and to stay that way a bit, until I get in and organize my stuff. Same when I stop with the car and turn the engine off, to have some cabin lighting till I pack my stuff and get out from the car. But now it's dark as fck if I don't turn manually on and then off the cabin lights in th middle at my head. If I'm right there is some switch in the car with ON/DOOR/OFF options, there is a drawing in the owners manual about it, but I cannot find the switch. Do you have any idea where to find it or how to set the cabin lights to work when I get in and out of the car? Thank you!
All of the improvements you've made to the engine, through "tuning up", will cause the engine to run slightly rich, until the long term fuel trim adjusts. Give it a few hundred miles, and all should be good again. Did you happen to clean the throttle body when doing the other repairs/maintenance? That, along with an idle relearn, will make improvements to economy as well.
Why is it necessary to run itself rich and to adjust for hundreds of miles? Can't it just work fine instantly? In the moment I'm 530 miles after the airflow clean - oil change - filters change, and 360 miles after the spark plug change. Hope it's enough. The idle is way below 1000 rpm, I guess it's near 6-700. I haven't cleaned the throttle body, should I do it now?
I still have the new gasoline filter. Do you now where can I find it in the car? In the engine bay there is no sign of it. Usually it's mounted near the front left shock absorber as I see in the pictures, but at mine on that place is the secondary air pump.
I am lookin for a 3.6R outback 2011 5at betwin 65-100k miles, is it a reliable engien? at the moment y have a 2012 xv with the tipical oil consumption isue,
Maybe you could give me a solid answer I have a 2012 sti and I'm thinking seriously about throwing in a Ez30r or should I just build up my ej25 my goal is to reach 600 as a daily. I like the Porsche sound from the h6 but will the ez30r h6 block with stand the boost. I understand I will need a legacy radiator now far as the wiring instructions I'm lost. And would I still be able to make use of my sport mode button? And how would I achieve launch control function with an h6?
MrSubaru1387 true, but just saying that the tensioner is a common failure and isn’t that bad. Actually this video has made me look into the EZ motors more as possible swap for my Forester. I know that many say the EG33 is a better motor, but the EZs are more common.
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My 2004 OBW Limited (EJ259 engine) had the A/C clutch wear issue. Your video stopped me from pulling the trigger on an $800 repair estimate. I spent $5.35 in the screws to press off and on the clutch. I had the tools to properly measure and adjust the gap. That was three years ago. My A/C still works well. I subscribed back then. I watch all your vids. I appreciate your production techniques so much more than the other goofballs that need to see themselves on screen in their vids.
Thank you.
You're very welcome. Glad to help. 👍🏻
Mr. Subaru has saved me looooots of money.
The EZ series is the most underrated Subaru engines.
got a 3.6R, i do love all subi's but the power without turbo/SC is something I can't deny is my fav
Agreed!
Yes I've done near on 300,000kms in H6 EZ30 motors ... last 10yrs+ bullet proof if you service every 10,000kms and run good oil 5W-40 fully S.. and high end oil + paper air filters and run 95+ octane min fuels ...
@@john-yn5nzthe basic service that people seem to neglect and end up ruining these engines reputation
Pcv valve tip is a game changer, such an unassuming little part that can lead to a massive headache! Thanks so much for this awesome video.
Have to agree. Didn’t think how much problems could occur by not checking and replacing it. Great explanation as well MrSubaru. Clear and straight to the point. Love your videos.
Having now owned both Subarus with a 2.5 n/a and a 2.5L Turbo ej motors, I’d like to try an ‘08-‘09 Outback 3.0R L.L. Bean motor. Compared to the overheating H/G issues on the N/As and the banjo bolts issues which can destroy the turbo motors, it seems the ez30 3.0 oil leak and other issues are really minor compared to the concerns that plague the ej motors. Great video as always Mr. Subaru!
I am getting ready to drive 3 hours to look at a 2010 Outback 3.6R with 84k miles and your videos have been extremely helpful! Thank you so much, really. I hope it all works out and I will bring my new-found education into the pre-purchase inspection and hope for the best. Sincerely, Honda technician who knows nothing about Subarus!
You should've got 06-08 Outback. Quicker and more reliable. Also looks better.
@@randomautonomousdronepilot3384 except for inside which is where you spend your time.
How much are you paying for it
@@michaellk2254 I didn't buy it because during the test drive the transmission light started to flash and the car acted up.
wow ive been watching for years and working on my 96 outback. I never really thought about that relationship between the pcv valve and oil leaks, that really interesting and totally makes sense!
Unbelievably informative video, thank you for this and the rest of your videos. I took my 06 LLB to the dealer to get aligned, they saw oil and said I needed a complete engine reseal to the tune of $3k. Super curious to see if replacing the PCV valve and oil cooler O-Ring keeps everything clean down there. Sounds like proactively replacing the tensioner pulley if not the entire tensioner might not be a bad idea, either. Fantastic work and thank you for that.
Got 08 legacy 3.0r and pcv was clogged causing oil cooler ring leak and the tensioner rattled also couple other small things easy fixes but got great deal on it becuz of these
I cannot thank you enough for these videos. When I have to talk to a mechanic about my 2013 Outback I am speaking as someone who understands what is going to be done rather than some un-empowered woman who knows nothing. I'm proactive on these repairs rather than waiting until they break.
You're very welcome 👍🏻
Just got a new ez30 for my outback. Last one had a thermastat and radiator failure, got hot (didn't get to red even) and blew the head gasket. Wasn't even that bad until I took it to the mechanics to get diagnosed. After I took it to them it was undriveable.
As a mechanic, I can understand this. Often, using a pressure tester on a leaking cooling system to find a leak can drastically exacerbate a leak.
MrSubaru, great video thank you. I am not a Subaru guy, meaning I have not worked with them in the past. A friend of mine as enlisted my help with his 08 3.0R which I think is the 3z 36.. idk you would know better. Anyway, short story is the car blew oil all over, I mean from the under side of the hood to the exhaust all on driver side.. I first ran the car with no air intake, open throttle body ( because he remove all that before I got to it) and I was searching for a massive oil leak.. much to my surprise, no leaking oil, anywhere.. however, the engine is blowing what looks like white smoke out of the hose that goes from intake box to valve cover, as well as the dipstick tube and oil cap ( if you loosen it)
So my first thought was PCV, I replaced that.
It's still blowing white smoke out anywhere it can... I am 98% sure there is a clog in the flow of the pcv system, question is, where? In the intake manifold? Or in the block?
I'm pretty sure the pcv vavle clogged up and caused the oil to blow out the dipstick tube..
Any help with this would be greatly appreciated, sorry for the long/short story lol
Enjoy your videos! My stepson just bought on 03 Outback H6. I am very familiar with the EJ series ( I have done maintenance and repairs on many EJs) but new too the EZ30. This particular video is very helpful he currently has squeaking coming from the tensioner. Good too know this and other issues listed are common. I will replace his PCV while im at it.
Your video's are the best thank you. The compressor cost $800 plus labor here in Australia
agree on the clutch air gap increase...but the cure as you said is decreasing the shim stack..its not a magnetic thing, it just runs out of throw.
Excellence Sir…
All of them. Strong work and thanks for taking the time to share.
Hardly a series of ez30 failures, these are just generic problems most engines get. It's wear and tear.
Correct. They're super reliable.
Its just emphasized. Beaten to death then everyones like IT SUCKS. IT SUCKS SOOO HARD but normal wear from whats explained.
Not sure I'd recommend it...but you can kinda-sorta "oil" the bearing. I had my idler (not tensioner) started making bad noises and found it almost seized, the parts available local turned out to be the wrong size so I had to order and wait a week. In the meantime I had to drive...so I soaked the thing in oil and worked it back and forth until it spun free, bought me enough time for parts to arrive. Not recommended...but beats having it fully seize when you have no other option.
Just push the bearing out from the idler and press a new one in - it's a standard size, ten bucks. Replace both the tensioner and idler pulley bearings as they both wear.
I’ve seen a handful of nissan VQ40 engines in xterras/frontiers/pathfinders/equators have the PCV stick wide open and cause colossal oil consumption, usually less than 50 miles to burn one quart
Aboslutely love this channel. It has helped make my ez30 legacy maintainance easy (pun intended). Thank you for all your hard work!
My 06 outback 3.0 has a bad leak on the rear timing cover. Took off everything but haven't taken the rear cover off yet, was waiting on new bolts as 4 of the bolts on the oil pump had to get drilled out. Good bet that that valve is clogged on mine, didn't know it existed :(. Oh well glad I found this before we put it back together and blew the seals out again.
Pcv valve was fine. Just a oring swelled some and hardened . Bad oring right where the leak was so hoping that's all. Covers back on and curing. Don't want to do this again lol.
Notice none of these issues are particularly catastrophic unlike the common EJ failures. That's because the EZ is the king of Subaru engines. I recently sold my last EJ powered Subaru and it's like a weight off the shoulders. Have a 2002 EZ30D Outback with a 5 speed that I daily at 193k and a 2012 3.6R with 242k that is also daily driven, and just picked up a 2011 3.6R with 258k to fix up. The 3.6 is the cream of the crop. The 30D did have a water pump failure where the pump housing had a ton of corrosion buildup over the O-ring in the bore it fits into, but I attribute that to owner neglect.
Shame they decided to go back to a turbo four for the premium engine option but that's the way ICE is going these days.
i already had the problem with the tensionner on my ez30 :) now, i'm waiting for the two others problems :)
I took my '13 Outback 3.6R to a shop because it is leaking oil. It was a Subaru specific shop; the owner told he would not work on my car because the EZ36 engine has proprietary parts/and tools that he needs to work on it and that he was not properly trained on it. Thought that was kind of odd.
Sounds like he's not as Subaru proficient as he would like people to believe..
I replaced a '13 legacy cvt a week ago. Sealed unit dead@ 102k... no warranty available. There's almost nothing proprietary to the 3.6 vs the 3.0 tool wise. I have no problem doing dealer reject work. Newer clean cars are easy to work on, bring 'em on!
168k miles on my 2011 OB 3.6R. 4500-5000 mile OCI's with synthetic and it still runs great. My serpentine belt pulley actually went bad at 105k. But I replaced the pulley alone and put in a Continental Gatorback belt and all has been great.
I am looking to buy a 2019 Outback. 29K miles. 3.6R.
What should I look for?
I am buying it from a Subaru dealer.
Great video!!!!
Considering the 3.6r was not available in 2019....lmao
Yes, it was. Last model year.
Also Toyota’s 2GFRE Engine has the same set up as the EZ36D oil pan parts 2 two piece as well.
Lots of engine, especially as of late, uses multipiece oil pans. Nissan VQ V6s instantly come to mind.
Nice video. I had an oil leak on my 2012 outback 3.6R. After I replaced the PCV valve, the leak stopped. When do you recommend to replace the PCV valve? I don’t see anything on PCV valve replacement intervals in the owner’s manual . Thanks
Good point - I’ve just bought an MY10 3.6 5sp Auto with less than perfect maintenance history but only 170km on it, and no sign of oil leaks. Drives like a dream.
I was planning on getting the gearbox, diffs oil changed.
Looks like good idea to get new PCV fitted while it’s in the workshop, and have them check the a/c clutch clearance.
Great info as usual bro, I actually have a question for you, what's the most common cause of the (tgv) tumbler generator valve giving problems on the ej255?
Isn’t the EG33 the best base for big hp builds simply due to block / sleeve thickness & strength?
Nice overview! Can def save a TON of money doing AC repairs yourself.
Not sure if you will answer this. I'm trying to find out if the EZ 36 can mount to my FA 20's transmission. Or if an EG 33 can?
I know it's a huge amount of work to make a swap. So if I can at least keep what I can to make it a little less work.
I had no idea about the requirement for pcv valve maintenance. Would you recommend putting an anti-seize compound on the threads when reinstalling the valve? Thanks for your great videos.
No antiseize. Some Teflon tape or RTV silicone is what you need.
@@MrSubaru1387 Great. Thank you again.
I have a 07 tribeca 3.0 engine multiple misfires and bank 1 code 0172 subaru dealer could not fix it any help with this? Thank you any advice
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Always give a like and comment for EZ30 goodness :) and this time I dont have a question for you haha
Hello Mrsubaru. I have 2006 b9 tribeca I tell you my experienced I was confused in 2016 middle of May at around 11pm I traveled from NY to NJ and my serpentine belt broke up still original belt since. It broke up after I cross the verrazzano bridge then I pulled over and shut the engine off. When I turn the car on it start again and I started moving and run the car without serpentine belt to exit 102 NJ. that over 50miles but after 30 minutes of driving everything was down most are electricals I’m in the middle of Garden State highway driving without lights and panels are black out. What I did was stupid and risky but my car saved me. I’m not sure if I have an angel or it is a car is my angel. Until now I still have my car but the engine is started leaking I’m thinking to change the motor and hoping if you can make a video how to swap engine. Thanks and more power...
I have an 08 EZ36D engine just developed a pretty good oil leak cant tell where from it pools on the plastic shield & drips from passenger side
Good idea to show location of this parts right in under the hood
well, this is the knowledge i need, thank you. im having an issue with i think its atf fluid getting in my radiator. can u maybe help me understand that? also im having an oil leak, i think its oil, in-between on bottom or near the bottom engine & radiator? im pretty sure the pcv valve hasnt ever been changed. i just bought this car & i didnt notice all theses problems b4 hand. also it runs really hot. but not all the time. plz help if ur able. im going broke on this thing. thank you
Such great info-- I have a major leak that right through a gap right in front of the oil pan. I looked at the PCV valve and while it is working (suck test) it looks dirty and I think that might of been the problem. Once a leak occurs I suppose that changing the PCV valve is too late, correct??? I am worried that my timing chain cover is blown and don't have the $700 bucks to repair.
I’m considering a Subaru Outback sedan w/ 3.0R. Thoughts on this motor?
Seems like subaru had no concern about corrosion from 2000 to 2010.
Every engine ive worked on was rusted.
My EZ36 during a trip had the bearing wear out on the Idler pulley and throw the belt. I wonder if this means that when they did the 60k mile belt replacement if they just didn't swap the tensioner and idler out. It's right at 85k miles now. I'm starting to check and redo all of the old maintenance on this car now that I no longer trust the maintenance done by the prior owner. I've done the differential servicing already, and I'm going to go ahead and get an official bearing kit to replace the aftermarket one I had to install on the road, and have them replace the PCV soon.
Any advice on how to avoid these issues? (New owner of a used 2019 3.6R outback)
Regular oil & filter change and keep an eye on the oil level as they do use some. You will need to replace the cam cover seals as they all leak eventually. Check PCV valve occasionally. Replace serpentine belt idler and tensioner bearings maybe every 200,000km and the thermostat too (ensure it is installed the right way round & up, and is OEM). Also check the steel coolant line that runs across the bottom of the timing cover to the oil cooler - ours pinholed from the outside where the support tab is welded. Our '05 Outback has 330,000km on it and still runs nicely otherwise.
Any advice on how to avoid these issues (New owner of a 2019 3.6R)
About to buy one as well….
The engine and the interior design is much nicer in my opinion than the big I pad with auto start stop…
I am confident in this car but I have heard plenty of “these engines are bulletproof, stay on top of everything and you’re good, these last a long time” contrasted with “the transmission locked on me, oil leaking at 70k miles” 😂
I wish they kept offering their newer cars with the older looking style system, and with physical x mode buttons, and the H6…. Alas…. My last Outback kept me safe in multiple situations so I’m a fan.
Very knowledgeable, thank you for your efforts.
Obviously older engines are harder to find parts for... That being said, is there any after market parts that fox these issues? Any retrofitting parts from other ej's maybe?
Hello, newer to the Subaru community. Love your content here and on tiktok. Just got a 2015 Subaru outback 3.6. Where can I get a factory service manual or good equivalent. Would love to do some work and get things done correctly. Any help is appreciated!
Jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru
2006 Subaru Outback 3.0 h6 has overheated replaced the radiator as it was leaking and thermostat just in case! I did a test with that blue liquid and it never changed colors! Then did a pressure test on radiator and more leaks was found on the water return line in process of replacing that but on my back! I heard to jack engine up but remove the mount bolts and or if need more room take headers off! Now headers are right in way can I just do these vs jacking up engine?? Can I reuse the gaskets?? How can I get to the mount bolts easily?? Special tools ideas on back so hard to get a straight look at the bolts on mounts!
I am gonna purchase a 2010 subaru outback 3.6 it has 165k miles on it....what issues should i be looking for?
I actually was consuming a bunch of oil on my EZ36 because of the PCV valve. Replaced it and now only going through maybe a quart every 3k. I'm also noticing a bit of oil around the top of my timing case. Nothing serious just a bit of seepage. I'm at 100k miles now. I haven't seen any leaks pop up under yet. When should I worry about resealing? Once it becomes a huge mess?
Personal preference. I've got quite a few seepage areas on my 02 L.L.Bean EZ30D. I'm at 290k, plan to pull the engine and reseal it at 300k. I'd say if the seepage becomes a leak, it's time to reseal it asap.
thanks for the video! I love your content and you've helped me on numerous repairs. I'm about to pull my h6 engine to do some pre-emptive maintenance (timing chain and water pump). However, I was curious what your thoughts are on doing the head gaskets while it's out? Is it worth it? I know head gaskets blowing on these is rare, but when I've been underneath the car I have seen some very very small green spots around the head gasket area. I wiped it clean and haven't seen anything since, also I check the radiator fluid often and it's completely clean. thanks!
If you're pulling the timing set, might as well freshen the heads and replace the head gasket.
@@MrSubaru1387 sweet, i'll give it a go. hoping to get 300K+ mi out of this engine.
@@MrSubaru1387 what causes goop in coolant resvoir? I had to replace hose and new radiator after it leaked .
@@007conspiracytheory headgasket leak ?😬💸💸
Now that's a bench one can eat off!
Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge! I recently bought a eudm spec B -04 with the ez30 engine that has what sounds like valve-train niose. It had been sitting for about 3 years before i got my hands in it, and i have changed oil twice before i did an engine flush and then fresh oil again. It sounds lika single valve is "knocking" from the right engine bank, sometimes louder other times it almost goes quiet but there is always noise. A local subie shop guessed that it would be valve seals and quoted a minimum of $1500 for fixing it, but also said that it should be fine to keep with driving it. I would greatly appreciate some input if you have any, and is there something else i should have them do if or when they start pulling the engine? It's a great car but i feel bad pushing it just knowing that the valve is ticking away while i do it..
Once again great info in the videos, i am looking forward to keep learning!
Hey mate I have a 2005 liberty r-b with the ez30 and I have the same problem with a ticking noice coming from the right hand side of the engine. It is quite on cold starts but when on warm idle it becomes very loud. I was wondering if you got yours fixed and if it fixed the problem?
@@simeonfazio1489 hey! No sadly I never got it fixed, but I talked to the previous owner and the tick have been there for almost 100 000 km now so it does not seem to be an big issue. But I have researched quite a bit, talked to mechanics etc, and the consensus seen to be carbon buildup on the valves, so I have been thinking about using a spray or fuel additive to try and combat it. Otherwise you can find a place that does cork-blasting in direct injected engines, as they seem to have the same issue with carbon buildup like the newer BMWs or Minis. Our you can turn it in to a local engine shop to remove the heads and either put in new valves or refresh the old ones :) sorry for a wall of text haha, but I hope you got some more insight! Needless to say this is of course only if this is the exact same issue that I have, but it seems like pretty common problem worth the ez30
@@filiparnqvist3218 thanks for the reply bro, luckily it was only dodgy spark plugs that had come loose over time letting out some compression. She runs all g now with 240k on the clock. I probably need to stop redline every shift lol.
I'm getting ready to purchase a used low mileage EZ36 eng and trans to replace mine in my 2012 Outback project car. Planning on doing a Raptor Super Charger in the near future. What would you recommend doing on a used replacement motor other than plugs, water pump, valve cover gaskets, & idler pulley assy of course! lol Was wondering if it would be worth upgrading to fel-pro head gaskets prior to install? Any input woul;d be amazing! Thanks, your vids are amazingly helpful!
Did you end up supercharging your ez36 ?
Thanks for the vid... great as usual and very helpful... i have a brake line leak on my 01 OBW VDC... i was wondering how hard of a repair this is, and what needs to be replaced... its leaking underneath the rear passenger doo, on front of the rear pass wheel. Its covered by a cover with a few bolts, and I'm told the line that is leaking, connects to a "junction block"... how hard of a repair is this and what needs to be replaced? Thanks!
Should be able to just replace the hard line.
@@MrSubaru1387 How hard of a job is that? Any special tools required? Thanks for the reply!
A flare nut wrench for the line and basic hand tools should get the job done.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks so much!
You're welcome. 👍🏻
another common failure is the power steering pump and the valve cover gasket
Usually it's the P/S reservoir o- ring that leaks and causes cavitation and whining noises reducing lifespan.
Useful 2 know
What to do when the coolant elbows under the thermostat housing becomes loose and start leaking coolant from there??
Great video, very helpful
😀 Thanks for the Tips 😍
Thanks for this! You should make one detailed video about failing head gaskets on theese engines. An issue that is way more serious than anything else.
More of an issue on the first model ez30, not so much on the 2nd gen and ez36. And far less prevalent when compared to the EJ series too.
Head gasket failure wasn't an issue in these like the EJs. That's why I didn't mention it. Usually only fail if ran low on coolant and/or overheated.
I agree that EJ`s are weaker from this point of view but still - in My opinion leaking HG`s on EZ30 second generation from MY2003 are a problem. I`ve seen two tribecas, one Outback and one Legacy in past three years with various HG failing stages in my garage, but with similar simpthom`s - exhaust gases in cooling system. At first there`s no sign`s of a problem because cooling system can handle little amount of air bubbles, then radiator can start to leak (replace that). Then it starts to spit coolant from overflow tank resulting in not enough coolant in the system and overheating at idle because of bad circulation (replace radiator cap, but soon realise there`s no improvement), then replace thermostat (no improvement) and at this point owner usually is facing the hard truth about failed head gasket. It`s just my experience, although i do adore these engines.
Question for you... I just picked up an 02 LL Bean with the H6 217k miles. Has on overheating issue. It only overheats when you drive for 20-30 mins. Will cool itself down when you go to idle even if the AC is on. I'm familiar with he EJ engines. In my deductive reasoning I would assume water pump, but with it being timing driven it is out of my scope of replacement. I don't want to drop that kind of money without knowing that it will fix it and the mechanics around me aren't that great when it comes to diagnosing. The first one I talked to said head-gasket without even lifting the hood and tried to tell me that it is common on Subs buuuuut I worked at Subaru as an advisor for years and this is not common on the H6. Thoughts?
Hey Mr Subaru how 're you how to where to connect smoke machine to detect evaporative emission system small leak, thanks Mr. Subaru
just curious to know if ticking lifters are a major problem to worry about?
Yep every oil change I pull my PVC out and clean it.
Good man. 👍🏻
@@MrSubaru1387 With what do you clean the PVC?
Carb or brake parts cleaner. Usually just replace them due to the low cost of them.
MrSubaru1387 I usually use carb cleaner because they used to have a film that would protect against sludge and varnish
Hi, I can't find your video for revolution sensor, will you help me with a link . Thank you bro !!!
Quick question...11' 3.6 120k I just bought every coolant hose they make. The 2 hoses under the intake at the front that go to each head...How on earth do I get those off? Any special tools I need so I dont have to remove that intake? :( Thanks!
Very informative. Thank you
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Will the pcv cause a sound like big pressure or hiss sound when the car starts. Our has been getting louder and now doesn’t like to start right away the first time after sitting.
I have a question on what your thoughts are on not rebuilding the bottom end of the engine if I'm pulling it out the only issue I'm having is it's mixing exhaust gases causing the coolant to overflow my suspicion is that bad head gaskets want to replace everything on the top end and throw the motor back in recommended or not recommended is my question thank you I love your videos and you've been a godsend on helping me keep my Subarus on the road
It is ez 30
Do you have any videos on lifters on these engines i will be rebuilding one of these for my buddy and just curious about what im going to run into there.
What is the correct head torque sequence on the 2001 ez30d? I have found 2 vastly differnt sequence's floating around the web- the one dirtcheapdaily used and the one in the 2001 service manuel. Has subaru updated it or was dirt cheap's later model ez30 call for different steps? Thanks man!
your intro is about 10x louder than your voice.
hola mister
como conoces muchos los autos subaru y tienes mucha experiencia, que motores subaru son mas confiable y duraderos en promedio ?
1) serie EJ 20 y EJ25
2) serie FA Y FB
3) serie EZ30 y EZ36
espero me puedas dar tu opinion
saludos
EZ30D / EZ36D son los más confiables.
@@MrSubaru1387 gracias
Are you planning one of these videos for the EG too?
They are basically a 6 cyl ej to my knowledge but could have it's own problems
Thanks for the video! Like you said in the video, Didn't know about the pcv vavle. I'mma buy a replacement for my next oil change. does the pcv valve need to be pressurised? Or can it vent freely? thanks alot!
Older techs call them rattle valves. Basically shake it, if it rattles, it's good. When they get gummed up with deposits, they no longer rattle.
If the PCV wont open will it give an engine light?
No, not usually.
@@MrSubaru1387 you would think it would be an easy for car makers to wire in a pressure sensor to turn on a dash light if it was blocked but that probably hurts the profits of the service shop 😂
Any good videos removing the rear timing cover? Have all the bolts out, water pump and oil pump. Just etc holding it at this point or anything else? Any tips would be great
Sorry. No video yet. Only one I have right now is on the timing chain removal /install. Only shows front cover removal.
What is the most reliable Subaru engine?
The H6 engines and the old EJ22 by far.
Dont forget the trusty ej207
@@MrSubaru1387 and the EA ones lol
How do you feel about turbocharging EZ36D?
I looked it up, EZ engines are 6 cylinder engines-right?
Correct. Introduced in 2001.
Unrelated subaru question: I have a plethora of C-Codes for the ABS system on my 06 Outback. I need to clear them to see what is historical and what still may be coming back, any way to do this without a dealer visit? I know how to read the DTCs with the trip/odo trick but no luck on clearing, even with a hard reset or FreeSSM.
If you aren't able to clear them by disconnecting the battery, or by deleting them with SSM, then most likely they are hard faults.
Gotcha, I was thinking that may be the case... I guess gone are the days where I could just ground the ABS connector pins. Thanks for the help!
Thank you.
MrSubaru looking at the videos for the EZ36 timing chain replacement, I don’t not see holding the cams when the chain is removed.
Will the cams rotate due to spring pressures? Is there a holder for the gears not to move?
I have 100k on my 2010 OBW and assume the chains should be replaced.
Thanks for the videos and guidance.
The chains aren't replaced as normal wear items like a timing belt. They're ruled lifetime or 300k miles by Subaru. You only service the chain when you have an issue, like; water pump leak, chain noise, loose guides, etc.
MrSubaru1387 Do I have to worry about the tensioner or guides? Thanks for all the great videos. I am new to the Subaru platform.
@@brianf8621 normally you don't need to worry about it until you start to hear chain rattle/noise.
@@MrSubaru1387 So that water pump.... its timing chain driven. Scotty just ridiculed Nissan and Subaru for using timing chain driven water pumps, and the potential for coolant to leak into oil that comes with that, basically destroying the engine by rusting the main bearings. I've never heard of this issue happening to a Subaru, and I have driven them for 27 years, although I've only had EA82, EJ22, EJ25 and now FB25 engines. I am looking at a low mileage 2018 Outback Premier 3.6 (Premier is the top of the line Canadian model, which I believe is the Touring model in the USA, whereas in Canada the Touring model is the well equipped middle of the line model).
I've never heard of a water pump issue on an EZ, and I have some friends with some of the original EZ30's, the 212HP models. I seem to recall that the water pump has a seepage hole to the outside, so that will leak coolant to the outside before it can leak into the timing cover, is this correct? and have you ever done a EZ36 water pump earlier than 200K? I was considering the new turbo, but I don't like turbo's for all the issues they bring into the equation, and I tow a small trailer (Aliner hardside popup, 2100lbs fully loaded), so the idea of being on boost up long hills is not appealing. My FB25 does fine towing, much better than my previous Ej25 with the manual transmission. So I am thinking that I can get just a bit more power without a Turbo, and at about $17k less than a new one. But that water pump sticks in the back of my mind, especially since I first saw the FB engine on display in 2008 where I noted the accessory driven water pump, a return to what the EA82 had. I had no issues with the timing belt driven water pumps as I changed idlers, tensioner, and water pump with the belt each time.
Correct, the weep hole is external. It won't mix coolant and oil, unless the water pump o-ring goes. Haven't seen that happen. Haven't replaced an H6 water pump. I replace the engines first, due to owner neglect. I rarely see any issues with the H6, unlike the several common issues on the EJs.
I came here because i have a gt86. Technically a BRZ dressed as a yota.
And was thinking what if. I engine swap FA20 with THIS. then im like OK IM STARTING TO SEE ITS NOT ALL THAT EASY
My ac compressor has seized on my ez30d engine. Can i put the compressor that not has this sensor on it? Cus i got one and i saw it was the same compressor but it did not have this revolution sensor on it and the weel looked diffrent, but i guess i can change the weel.
It won't work.
I have a swap question.
Is it possible to swap a ez30r engine from a 2005 legacy sedan to a 2004 ej25 outback wagon?
Anything is possible with enough time and money.
The chasis and the gearboxes on subies are like lego;) plug and play almost:)... 3.0 r apec b here going strong at 230K km:) engine not opened once!... I need to change those gaskets and the chain i think... Just to have 220k no wories km-s more;D ... Not bad for 2005 made engine:)
Do you have a video on how to replace the Pcv valve?
I do. Search the channel.
Sweet
I can’t find it🤦♂️
I found one on the 3.6 for the 2010-2014
ruclips.net/video/gkQHoHpZ3ZA/видео.html
Hi!
I have a 2006 2.0X 158 hp naturally aspirated Forester (made for the european market, if it has any significance). I just changed all the filters (except the gasoline filter because I cannot find it), the oil (Motul 8100 5W30), and the spark plugs (it took me and my dad 3 hours) to NGK 6481 iridium (same as the old ones) and cleaned the airflow sensor with Liquy Molly airflow sensor cleaner (don't know if it was dirty or not, just sprayer a couple times on it). The gas consumption went from 10-10.5 l / 100 km (23.5-22.5 mpg) to 12.4 l/ 100 km (19 mpg). I went a couple miles in deeper snow too, but is this normal after the sensor cleaning + oil-filter-spark plug change to have this gas mileage? Or is there a way to overtorque/ undertorque the sparkplugs to make consumption problems or engine problems? (I had no torque wrench) The engine runs smoothly and there was no change in my driving style, the only difference was 3-4 miles in a deeper snow on a forest road.
My other question is with the cabin lights. I'd like the lights to turn on when I unlock the car and to stay that way a bit, until I get in and organize my stuff. Same when I stop with the car and turn the engine off, to have some cabin lighting till I pack my stuff and get out from the car. But now it's dark as fck if I don't turn manually on and then off the cabin lights in th middle at my head. If I'm right there is some switch in the car with ON/DOOR/OFF options, there is a drawing in the owners manual about it, but I cannot find the switch. Do you have any idea where to find it or how to set the cabin lights to work when I get in and out of the car? Thank you!
All of the improvements you've made to the engine, through "tuning up", will cause the engine to run slightly rich, until the long term fuel trim adjusts. Give it a few hundred miles, and all should be good again. Did you happen to clean the throttle body when doing the other repairs/maintenance? That, along with an idle relearn, will make improvements to economy as well.
Why is it necessary to run itself rich and to adjust for hundreds of miles? Can't it just work fine instantly? In the moment I'm 530 miles after the airflow clean - oil change - filters change, and 360 miles after the spark plug change. Hope it's enough. The idle is way below 1000 rpm, I guess it's near 6-700. I haven't cleaned the throttle body, should I do it now?
I still have the new gasoline filter. Do you now where can I find it in the car? In the engine bay there is no sign of it. Usually it's mounted near the front left shock absorber as I see in the pictures, but at mine on that place is the secondary air pump.
On a 2006, it's in the gas tank, part of the fuel pump module.
Because the fuel trims need time to adjust. You could disconnect the battery and let it sit to reset short and long term.
I have a 3.6 tribeca. Where can I find the Pcv? Passenger side front or rear, driver side front or rear. Thanks for help. Love your channel..
Should be in the left hand cam cover. (valve cover)
@@MrSubaru1387.
Driver side
Yes.
@@MrSubaru1387
Thank you very much
Are the ez 6 cylinder engines oil burners?
No.
When you use incorrect 0w20 or 5w20 yes...use correct weight 5w30 or 5w40 oil
I am lookin for a 3.6R outback 2011 5at betwin 65-100k miles, is it a reliable engien? at the moment y have a 2012 xv with the tipical oil consumption isue,
Ez are probably the most reliable subaru engine and can easily see 350,000 km with proper maintenance
Maybe you could give me a solid answer I have a 2012 sti and I'm thinking seriously about throwing in a Ez30r or should I just build up my ej25 my goal is to reach 600 as a daily. I like the Porsche sound from the h6 but will the ez30r h6 block with stand the boost. I understand I will need a legacy radiator now far as the wiring instructions I'm lost. And would I still be able to make use of my sport mode button? And how would I achieve launch control function with an h6?
I'd go for an EG33 over the EZ series. Google Andy Forrest Performance. Check out his 1200hp EG33 turbo Impreza.
@@MrSubaru1387 ThankYou sir
ruclips.net/video/BOltVjoOntY/видео.html Perrin built an EZ turbo STi back in 04-05.
ruclips.net/video/j5L6E-MurOk/видео.html
Anyone know if there is enough sleeve material to bore it significantly bigger? Would love to build a 4.0L H6
Take eg33 engine an you can make 3.7L and 1200+ hp
I wonder if Marty has seen this
I am not used to this engine being called e-zee. I've always heard it called e-zed.
Zee is the non aussie/brit pronunciation.
@@MrSubaru1387 Canada pronounces it zed aswell.
Welp, southern Murcia here. Haha
My 14 3.6 OB has the engine code Z36D. Same thing as EZ36D? Or is there a difference?
It's an EZ36D.
MrSubaru1387 thanks for the clarification!
You're welcome.
The ej25 a/c tensioner sucks.
This video is on EZ30D and EZ36D H6 engines though. Not EJ engines.
MrSubaru1387 true, but just saying that the tensioner is a common failure and isn’t that bad. Actually this video has made me look into the EZ motors more as possible swap for my Forester. I know that many say the EG33 is a better motor, but the EZs are more common.
Are these engines direct injection or SMPFI?
Port injection.
Why does it smokes at times?
You got oil leaking