Interesting, I never had a friction plate on the outside of the pack right next to the plate inside my slippe clutch. Is this specific to your clutch or whats the reason for that?
Hi VauZwei, its purely personal preference from playing around with the pack order to get a feel I like and NOT a recommendation, the pressure plate wears faster as a result but I only get 2 seasons from a clutch if I am careful due to wear on the basket and drum from the plates. For correct installation you should have a steel or even 2 by the pressure plate, thats why I put the correct stack lists in the video description. Hope that makes sense 😊
With the world the way it is there’s no telling when my “Ducati guy” will be back in the shop again. Your channel looks just right for bridging the gap. Love that you keep the content rather than cutting away because it’s worth seeing and I can always cut the playback speed down to .25 and watch your technique. The tips and details like sequence and torque settings are most valuable. Three years into my ‘01 748 and I’m happy to be a new subscriber and can’t wait to check out your other vids. This clip is Designer approved 👌🏻
another real entertaining vid!!! you lost me a bit on the forks while I haven't got those awesome tools... :-) apart from that.. really good learning stuff.. especially because of the mentioning of the torque specs.. some of them are pretty hard to find (not in a Haynes manual FE).. been watching for a long time through your vids.. today was the day for the compliment .. keep up the good work.. you deserve waaaaayyyyyy more views / subs
I've used red ATF fluid in my older Ducati, it's about 7.5wt, I think it's possible to use it in these also, but a valving adjustment is likely, there are some great options for aftermarket valving for these forks.
There are lots of options open to these forks from valve kits through to full drop in cartridge kits. Certainly you will not be limited if wanting to tune the forks 👍😎
Great content, I'm about to tackle the fuel filter on my 996 for the first time so seeing this helped heaps. Also getting some Seal All just in case :-)
Do you race on standard suspension because of class regulations or just preference? It’d be great if you could do a video of your bikes’ geometry and suspension setup if you’ve altered it. I see you run quite a larger rear sprocket than standard, I know that’s got some implications.
Hi Rob, Suspension is free in the class but this time round I chose to keep the front standard until I find the limit of it, the two meetings I was at last year I was 2 seconds off my normal pace so I have personal effort investment needed before pushing the suspension technically further. I will see if I can dedicate a future video to the geometry changes made to the bike.
Love your videos.👍Just doing a fork refresh on my 748S. Is the torque setting for the lock nut to rebound adjuster same as in ST2 video, 24 N/m?? Thanks.
17:32 you say fully back off the register... I realize I make a mistake because before open I completely screw in the register with screw driver. is this a big mess? and if yes how can I solve? thanks for your help.
You will just need to wind them out fully to the stops before you fill with oil. You wind them out to make it easier to work the oil through the forks when refilling and prevent any issues filling all the space in the forks and adjuster channels.
I cannot remember the make of mine, but there are a few about. Such as this one: www.ffx.co.uk/product/Get/Sealey-Ms1824-5051747750081-Motorcycle-Fork-Spring-Compressor?msclkid=80337681b2b9159a015e171e596c2439
Loved the fuel tank section - It was a pain trying to connect the 2 x filler cap overflow pipes to the pump assembly on mine.. i think the next time i change the filter i will just jumper the hose like in your video - Would that be ok for a road bike? or is it better to keep it as OEM? thanks
Those pipes are for overfill or spillage when filling up so if you are careful you should be okay. Make sure to block the holes near the filler cap otherwise water will enter the fuel tank.
The water expansion tank near the head stock can split after a while. It will not start leaking until under pressure. You can get replacement header tanks still.
Hi dude, every ducati owner needs to be watching these! Regarding the number you were looking for on the fork oil bottle, here's a link to a table of well known oils and their real viscosity at cold and hot temps: www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid Silkolene RSF or Ohlins fluid look to be pretty much the best bet, because as the numbers show, their performance at different temperatures is much more consistent than most of the rest. I just stick with Silkolene in all forks cos then I always know where I am. In general, the RSF real viscosities are higher than the numbers on the front of the bottles suggest - Bang on for mentioning that! In my 748 I blend a bit of 2.5wt with 5wt to get as close as possible to the OEM Showa fluid viscosity listed in the table. (There's also a silkone mix ratio pdf below the table in that link). Well serviced 748S forks are very slick. Although, I had a bad experience last time using some aftermarket 'upgraded' seals - they were so tight that the stiction wouldn't even let the tube slide down the stanchion under its own weight, so I did the job again with N.O.K. seals, which I'm told are Showa OEM and all was well again. Warming of the tubes was definitely necessary! What a nightmare! I wish you'd made this video earlier LOL! One last thing... Good luck with that electrical glitch, you'll sort it!
Thanks Richard 👍 Nice link, it is not too dissimilar to the list I already have although probably with a few more oils. With after market seals the stiction check is a must otherwise it can lead to all sorts of problems 😒 I agree on the Silkolene and Ohlins oils performance point, cannot fault them. You are using quite a low weight of oil, surprised by that but then it is down to personal feel. Thanks for watching, might of found the electrical problem as well. 😊
Can you explain what you meant by “I don’t worry about pump gas.”? I’m not sure understand how that makes it ok to remove the vent hoses and loop them. Thanks!
Hi Rob, My meaning is that because I have a non standard fuel filling cap and use a funnel to always fill up I don't have to worry about spillage in the fuel cap recess. In that space there are two drains which are connected to the fuel pump base and drain away if you spill fuel or overfill your tank. Hope that makes sense, its not the difference in fuels.
DesmoWerx doesn’t this leave the tank susceptible to water making its way into the tank in wet conditions? Or does the aftermarket cap seal so we’ll that isn’t a concern?
Also, do you just loop the two breather ports inside the tank (under the filler cap). If so how does the tank breathe as fuel is depleted? It seems the tank would vapor lock at some point
Great video, as usual. Resurrecting my 998 after a 6 year nap. The 600 grit sandpaper doesn't damage or remove the Titanium Nitride coating? No need to replace any of those fork bushings? My forks "click" upon rebound, which I've heard is normal on these bikes, but mine seems louder than I ever remembered, and I wonder if something like the bushings are worn?
Interesting, I never had a friction plate on the outside of the pack right next to the plate inside my slippe clutch. Is this specific to your clutch or whats the reason for that?
Hi VauZwei, its purely personal preference from playing around with the pack order to get a feel I like and NOT a recommendation, the pressure plate wears faster as a result but I only get 2 seasons from a clutch if I am careful due to wear on the basket and drum from the plates. For correct installation you should have a steel or even 2 by the pressure plate, thats why I put the correct stack lists in the video description. Hope that makes sense 😊
Instablaster...
With the world the way it is there’s no telling when my “Ducati guy” will be back in the shop again. Your channel looks just right for bridging the gap. Love that you keep the content rather than cutting away because it’s worth seeing and I can always cut the playback speed down to .25 and watch your technique. The tips and details like sequence and torque settings are most valuable. Three years into my ‘01 748 and I’m happy to be a new subscriber and can’t wait to check out your other vids.
This clip is Designer approved 👌🏻
Glad the videos are useful 👍😎 good to have you onboard as a subscriber and a fellow 748 owner 😊
This channel is my new service manual. Very appreciative
Thanks, as long as the videos are of use to someone then it was worth making it 👍😊
My 748 started squirting gas from the front right side of the tank today soo thank you for this video
Glad it was of help to you Dante 😊
Great vid ,had a 748 ,916 ,got a 1098 now .much the same to work on ..love that fork holding tool makes life so much easier..
The vice is a god send as it takes out a lot of the hassle in refurbishing forks 👍😎
Thank you so much for all your video's. They are extremely appreciated.
You are very welcome, thanks for watching them 👍😎
Like the warning up slightly of the forks, im just about to do my ST2 forks - fluid and seals
It does make it slightly easier to remove and replace the bushes 😊
Another top video, keep them coming 👍
Thanks 👍
another real entertaining vid!!! you lost me a bit on the forks while I haven't got those awesome tools... :-)
apart from that.. really good learning stuff.. especially because of the mentioning of the torque specs..
some of them are pretty hard to find (not in a Haynes manual FE)..
been watching for a long time through your vids.. today was the day for the compliment ..
keep up the good work.. you deserve waaaaayyyyyy more views / subs
Thanks GSenna,
Glad you enjoy the videos and get some use from them. 👍😊
I've used red ATF fluid in my older Ducati, it's about 7.5wt, I think it's possible to use it in these also, but a valving adjustment is likely, there are some great options for aftermarket valving for these forks.
There are lots of options open to these forks from valve kits through to full drop in cartridge kits. Certainly you will not be limited if wanting to tune the forks 👍😎
Thanks for the videos!
Glad you like them 😎
Great content, I'm about to tackle the fuel filter on my 996 for the first time so seeing this helped heaps. Also getting some Seal All just in case :-)
Good luck, just don't force the pump back in, that's when it can cause issues. It needs a firm even pressure to push back in
@@DesmoWerx thanks, I'll watch out for that
Very well done!
Thank you! Cheers 😎
Do you race on standard suspension because of class regulations or just preference?
It’d be great if you could do a video of your bikes’ geometry and suspension setup if you’ve altered it. I see you run quite a larger rear sprocket than standard, I know that’s got some implications.
Hi Rob,
Suspension is free in the class but this time round I chose to keep the front standard until I find the limit of it, the two meetings I was at last year I was 2 seconds off my normal pace so I have personal effort investment needed before pushing the suspension technically further.
I will see if I can dedicate a future video to the geometry changes made to the bike.
yeahhhh !!!! bike geometry.. that would be nice... !!
there are not to many vids about that subject...
so.. totally agree on that!!!
Genial video, como todos los que haces. Muchas gracias.
Gracias, me alegra que te gusten los videos.
Good quality content and informative. I’m hooked 👍 👍 👍 👍
Hi Steve,
Glad you enjoy it!
Love your videos.👍Just doing a fork refresh on my 748S. Is the torque setting for the lock nut to rebound adjuster same as in ST2 video, 24 N/m??
Thanks.
Luv Desmo!!
17:32 you say fully back off the register... I realize I make a mistake because before open I completely screw in the register with screw driver. is this a big mess? and if yes how can I solve? thanks for your help.
You will just need to wind them out fully to the stops before you fill with oil. You wind them out to make it easier to work the oil through the forks when refilling and prevent any issues filling all the space in the forks and adjuster channels.
very nice that anti faff suspension holding tool what make and where did you get it.thanks
I cannot remember the make of mine, but there are a few about. Such as this one:
www.ffx.co.uk/product/Get/Sealey-Ms1824-5051747750081-Motorcycle-Fork-Spring-Compressor?msclkid=80337681b2b9159a015e171e596c2439
Thanks sir♥️♥️
Thanks 👍😎
Loved the fuel tank section - It was a pain trying to connect the 2 x filler cap overflow pipes to the pump assembly on mine.. i think the next time i change the filter i will just jumper the hose like in your video - Would that be ok for a road bike? or is it better to keep it as OEM? thanks
Those pipes are for overfill or spillage when filling up so if you are careful you should be okay. Make sure to block the holes near the filler cap otherwise water will enter the fuel tank.
Another awesome video. Does your plate configuration conform to quietening the dry clutch down as well. Seen a few people doing that
Thanks Jason,
I dont know if this makes the clutch any better noise wise, I found it was slightly better at initial drive off the line.
Sir i have ducati but the raditor watter allwys comes out i mean flush from spar watter contaner
The water expansion tank near the head stock can split after a while. It will not start leaking until under pressure. You can get replacement header tanks still.
Hi dude, every ducati owner needs to be watching these!
Regarding the number you were looking for on the fork oil bottle, here's a link to a table of well known oils and their real viscosity at cold and hot temps: www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid
Silkolene RSF or Ohlins fluid look to be pretty much the best bet, because as the numbers show, their performance at different temperatures is much more consistent than most of the rest. I just stick with Silkolene in all forks cos then I always know where I am. In general, the RSF real viscosities are higher than the numbers on the front of the bottles suggest - Bang on for mentioning that! In my 748 I blend a bit of 2.5wt with 5wt to get as close as possible to the OEM Showa fluid viscosity listed in the table. (There's also a silkone mix ratio pdf below the table in that link).
Well serviced 748S forks are very slick. Although, I had a bad experience last time using some aftermarket 'upgraded' seals - they were so tight that the stiction wouldn't even let the tube slide down the stanchion under its own weight, so I did the job again with N.O.K. seals, which I'm told are Showa OEM and all was well again. Warming of the tubes was definitely necessary! What a nightmare! I wish you'd made this video earlier LOL!
One last thing... Good luck with that electrical glitch, you'll sort it!
Thanks Richard 👍
Nice link, it is not too dissimilar to the list I already have although probably with a few more oils.
With after market seals the stiction check is a must otherwise it can lead to all sorts of problems 😒 I agree on the Silkolene and Ohlins oils performance point, cannot fault them.
You are using quite a low weight of oil, surprised by that but then it is down to personal feel.
Thanks for watching, might of found the electrical problem as well. 😊
Can you explain what you meant by “I don’t worry about pump gas.”? I’m not sure understand how that makes it ok to remove the vent hoses and loop them. Thanks!
Hi Rob,
My meaning is that because I have a non standard fuel filling cap and use a funnel to always fill up I don't have to worry about spillage in the fuel cap recess.
In that space there are two drains which are connected to the fuel pump base and drain away if you spill fuel or overfill your tank.
Hope that makes sense, its not the difference in fuels.
DesmoWerx doesn’t this leave the tank susceptible to water making its way into the tank in wet conditions? Or does the aftermarket cap seal so we’ll that isn’t a concern?
Also, do you just loop the two breather ports inside the tank (under the filler cap). If so how does the tank breathe as fuel is depleted? It seems the tank would vapor lock at some point
Nice work! You re-routed the brake line around the left leg. Did you do that by intension?
HI aas061,
Thanks glad you enjoyed the video :)
Did not wrap it by intention around the left leg and have now corrected it off video :)
Gute gemacht
👍😎
Great video, as usual. Resurrecting my 998 after a 6 year nap. The 600 grit sandpaper doesn't damage or remove the Titanium Nitride coating? No need to replace any of those fork bushings? My forks "click" upon rebound, which I've heard is normal on these bikes, but mine seems louder than I ever remembered, and I wonder if something like the bushings are worn?
Oh, I read the description, and it says you replaced the bushes. Did you go with OEM or are there aftermarket ones that are just as good?