Choose the BEST sewing pattern size for YOU! Body VS Finished Garment Measurements!
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- Опубликовано: 17 фев 2023
- Do you often find that when you choose a size based on the pattern recommendations it’s just too big and does not fit how you want at all?
Let’s talk about how to choose the right size for you in this final video of the ‘Start to Sew’ series.
The key to choosing the best sewing pattern size is understanding the difference between Body Measurements and Finished Garment Measurements!
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An easy way to look at CUSTOM FITTING SEWING PATTERNS to your body - Pattern size vs garment fit?
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I've been known to measure pattern pieces to get the finished garment measurements. You measure from stitching line to stitching line at the horizontal levels (bust, hip, etc) and subtract the relevant amounts for gathering, pleats and darts.
As for knowing how much ease feels good on you - take a look at your favourite clothing items. Measure them at their finished measurements (seam to seam) and compare to your actual body measurements. Write all this down in a dedicated notebook. For each item you will need to include the type of fabrics used; woven vs knitted fabric, how it drapes (stiffness vs scrunchyness), stretch-ability; as well as the grain-lines of each pattern piece - all make a difference which accumulates to the end product. This way, you will accumulate data on the garments that fit you well in all types of fabrics. Perhaps you could do the same for garments that are a little tight in only one area - but write in red so it stands out that it's uncomfortable rather than a wrong size. This would indicate where your comfort level has been exceeded in the tightness factor.
Having had most of my clothes made for me when I was growing up. I got used to clothes "with room to grow" and I am not comfortable with "tight" clothes. Your advice is perfect for someone like me. Why make something that will be uncomfortable and I probably won't ever wear?
Lynette, good suggestions.
This is exactly the first thing i was taught at sewing school. Measure your pattern then measure yourself. Tick the areas that match and then choose your size to cut out accordingly. Then make a muslin and transfer any adjustments to your paper pattern. Use the finished pattern as a template for future clothes. I also measure clothes that fit me well and compare to patterns before choosing a size.
Just to add to the confusion…I always make my vertical measurement changes on a pattern first (lower/raise the bust, waist at MY waist etc) then I flat measure the pattern and compare to my body measurements. Another tip: take those body measurements every time…we change! Happy sewing everyone!
I've been sewing for decades and still learn so much from your videos! ❤
Our age can change everything. As we age, our weight might stay the same; but, our body measurements may change. An example is my back length has gotten longer while my front length measurement stays the same. My waist has gotten thicker, while my hips have become smaller, and my belly has become bigger. My bust line is not in the same place it used to be. Patterns are designed for young bodies. A loose fitting long dress (with no waist line) works well for me. I must have sleeves to help hide my upper arms. However, jumpers give me many options in styling and comfort.
My High School sewing teacher, Mrs. French, taught us to measure the pattern for the true measurements. You have to take care not to include the seam allowances and darts. Many times the measurements you get will not match what is printed on the pattern and envelope.
Good points, I have to take in the bust and let out the waist, I mostly don't bother with commercial patterns anymore now that I've got a princess seam bodice block adjusted for my potato of a torso! I've been the same weight for over a decade and holy heck is my shape ever different, I can't wear pants now that I wore when I was ten pounds heavier twenty years ago!
Still learning and absorbing information. Unfortunately I work full time and commute 55 hours a week. So when I do sew I like watching before I attempt things. Saturday you tube is my rest and education time. Hopefully become one of your students in about 19 months when I retire. Good information Evelyn. Never to old to learn new skill.
You’ll love VSS…monthly Q and A…the community is awesome and so friendly…of course all the classes. I’ve been in about a year..mostly watching not much sewing. I’m still working…but like you..definitely seeng the light at the end of the tunnel and looking forward to retirement. Hope to see you in VSS soon!
@@nbks6w8 Maybe we should have a retirement party. I'll retire in June. Looking forward to more sewing time.
Lots of indie patterns don’t have seam lines marked on the pattern pieces. Remember to take seam allowances into consideration when measuring your patterns! 😊
I'm 6'2" and fairly slender, so I tend to make my own clothes if I want something nice, as off-the-rack rarely fits well. Learned a lot through trial and error to never follow body measurements or even finished garment measurements, I tend to add a lot of my own custom adjustments based on how I now know fabrics drape on my body. It's a lot of frustrating maths but it's LOVELY when it comes together perfectly with a bit of seam adjustment. Making a custom mannequin to my body shape also helped that process enormously
I’m not a beginner, but I watch your videos because, maybe there’s something I don’t know. I am always learning, no matter how much I think I know. Many times I can size down 2 sizes on a woven pattern with no problem.
I love your eyelet top! I used to have one as a kid and I loved it.
Evelyn, you made a video where you talked about a hard to find tape measure that starts from 0 at each end. I couldn’t find any online but I found one today at Joann’s (US fabric/craft store). The keyword to look for is “flip” as in “flip and measure.” The one I bought is from Dritz - “Fashion Color Tape Measure.” On the back it says “Always ready to use from either end. Just flip and measure.” There were at least 4 tapes that used this language including a couple in the quilt section (extra long tapes). This tape has inches on both sides and metric on one. I hope this helps someone!
The pattern companies are smart to make ease "extra" because that is such an individual choice. Having been raised in clothes that had "room to grow" I need more ease to be comfortable in my clothes. But I know others who are uncomfortable in baggy clothes, so we would not pick the same ease.
I LOVE that you covered this. The last garment I attempted to make was well over 5 years and the reason I gave up was the dress I was trying to make came out ENORMOUS, gigantic even! I didn’t know how to accommodate for the finished garment being I’m guessing 4 sizes too big. I’m ready to try again and this knowledge will help me so much on the next attempt! Thank you! 🙏🏼💗
I always make a mockup/toile out of scraps or old bedsheets etc. to check the fit on everything before I cut the fabric I want to use, I always end up taking in the bust and letting out the waist. If you still have that 5 year old project and your garment isn't heavily finished on the inside, you might be able to figure out where to put some new seams to fit it more properly to your size, though it may well involve unstitching a few key seams. And maybe a friend to help pin you in to see where seams need to move to.
@@bunhelsingslegacy3549 aw thank you for the tip and encouragement! I let my daughters pick the fabric which was extremely stretchy so not only was it enormous, it stretched exponentially when hung up LOL. It was a disaster and I was so heartbroken I threw it away. I have now learned about making the toile mock up! Obviously that won’t help with a knit but I’m going to give a go at making a blouse and definitely will be making a mock up first. Thank you so much!
This is exactly what I wanted and needed to know. You are a great communicator and your enthusiasm for sewing is contagious. I have watched some of your videos and am now addicted videos. Thank you!
Thank you for your tutorials. I have never sewn in my life just sew on buttons and hems. I am now 74 and have decided to learn. Just a tad late to start 😅. I’m extra large in bust but only size 12 hips so I look like I’m wearing a tent. So I’m determined to learn and look forward to any advice.
Thinking back to when today's vintage patterns were new... we pinned in pleats, darts, etc. on the tissue, then used a tape measure and measured seam line to seam line.
50 yrs of sewing and did not know about this information! I learn so much from you so keep it coming!
Thank you so much for explaining this. My biggest problem in fitting are my hips but when you explained about design I now know that certain patterns no matter how pretty are just not meant for my body type! Can’t begin to tell you how much this has helped me in choosing a pattern. Love your videos and truly appreciate everything you cover in them.
When I realized about ease I began to be able to get my projects to fit. Some patterns don't seam to show the finished garment size so what I do is look for the small mark stating "Natural Waist" on the pattern, then I measure the actual pattern for the size I am considering (with a little bit of maths) I can get an idea of what the finished size is likely to be.
I am a heavy lady...and want to learn how to make patterns....not a lot of patterns my size. Thank you for your channel
Great explanation. I think it would have been helpful for beginners if you had given some starting numbers for how much ease is a good place to start. Like saying for a woven garment that is supposed to be close fitting, starting with at least X amount ease. If you are making a loose fitting garment you probably want Y amount of ease. If you are doing a tight fitting knit garment, try Z amount of ease. You said that everyone has different preferences and will learn them through experience, but having a starting point to work from would be helpful, at least so they can see how off some of the patterns can be.
I agree. It would be wonderful if you could provide these suggestions.
For woven garments these are the minimum ease requirements (generally):
2” at the bust, 1” at the waist, 1.5” at the hip. (Convert to cm if necessary). This is the minimum amount of ease needed to get the garment on and to allow for movement. HOWEVER, it is really important to know what YOUR minimum is for comfort and ease of movement. Taking measurements of RTW garments that fit you well is a key piece of the puzzle.
@@denisedorsey2889 Thank you.
I had a lightbulb moment in your earlier video on ease so I was excited to see the notification for this pop up. I know in previous videos you had spoken about ease, but it just hadn't clicked. i really appreciate your easy to follow explanation on the difference between body measurements and finished garment. Thank you. This current series is fantastic
Thank you so much. I can't believe that in all my years of sewing (oh so many) I have never made that connection between finished garment size, ease and fit. Every day is a school day x
I love your channel. I am new to sewing. It's intimidating but I am loving your channel and it helps me not be so sad about not having family or friends to teach me.
I am a fairly experienced seamstress but was clueless about most of this. Thank you SO much.
WHY DOES NO ONE TELL PEOPLE THIS!?!
In other words - THANK YOU!
Well, how enlightening. Knowledge is power they say.
I track everything I make myself.
In a tablet I have notes on each pattern I use even if it is a pattern I made.
On top of the page is pattern number and company.
Then my current measurements the day I will cut it out in the left hand column.
The second column is the pattern finished garment measurement. And the size
The 3rd column is the adjustment + or - I will be making.
In doing this is sometimes I change which pattern size I will use as the base.
I always take in consideration the fabric I am using and how it drapes as it makes a huge difference in deciding the ease that I want
I also keep index card inside the pattern with the date I used it and a fabric swatch as this will help me decide if I will change anything next time I use the pattern. On the back is the same information as the notebook.
On the pattern itself I put the dates I use the pattern
Sure some of it is duplicate but sometimes the card is misplaced or my tablet is not within reach or what ever happens in life things often go off the rail and I might have only one or two of the informations
OMG - This is so helpful! I have been doggedly checking the body measurements to select a size, and then end up getting frustrated and 'amending' the pattern at the end. I have just gone back to my 2 favourite patterns and now think I will sew a full size smaller for both patterns to get a better fit with the amount of ease I want. It seems so obvious now... thank you xx
After sewing a couple of "muslins", I realized I needed a smaller size in the top I was working on. After listening to this video, I will also measure the pattern and check against my own measurements. This video also discussed using garments that own that really fit and take measurements of those too. I agree with the other commenters, this makes a lot of sense!
I had not idea until you gave us a hint last week that I need to look at finished garment sizes as well as body measurements 😊
This series is so helpful!. Thank you for your teaching. Are you planning on teaching us how to read all the different marks on a pattern too? I have never been able to know what they mean :(
You definitely should be able to find these! I just did a quick google search for “pattern marking symbols “ and several resources popped up. I’m sure you can find one to print out. Essential knowledge for successful sewing!
This is very good information Evelyn. Would love to see a video on how to choose a size and needing a full bust adjustment. If I choose a pattern based on measurements, intended pattern ease and taking fit into consideration they wind up being huge in the shoulders, upper chest, neck and even armholes. Most patterns seem to be drafted for a sewing “B” cup size, or 2” more than the upper or high bust measurement. I happen to have a 4” difference so require an FBA but using a much smaller size based on my high bust measurement to fit my upper body correctly. I’ve stopped using patterns without a high bust measurement included in the sizing, too much guess work 🤦🏻♀️ What are your thoughts?
Fitting bottoms is not an issue for me.
Good video. I find it strange that the hip “ease” was 3” (imperial) and 5 cm (metric). Shouldn’t it be 7.5 cm metric? OR. If 5 cm is correct, then that wouldn’t it be 2” imperial. A pretty big difference.
I enjoy your videos. Very informative. My wife and I have just starting to take sewing classes.
I saw “ease” described in one of you other videos. Good stuff. Especially for a newbie !
Your vlog gave me a better understanding of design and wearing ease. Thanks
I discovered finished garment measurements on the tissue by mere chance years ago! The pattern companies should not make us work so hard for this info!
Thank you for a great video!
Aha-moments
1. The designer does not have the same idea about ”snug fit” that I do… of course.
2. Maybe the model on the picture on the pattern isn’t even wearing the size that her measurement suggests would fit her.
3. Many patterns are A little big
4. Some patterns might be tricky to adjust to pear shape bodies. Choose another pattern. Don’t just take the largest measurement (hips?!) and choose your size from that.
5. If seam allowance are off a little on both sides I might end up with a larger size.
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Great series!
You explain things so simply, it will make fitting garments so much easier x
Your explanations are very clear. Thank you
I love your blouse-material.
Love your channel. Very informative and interesting
Thank you for this beginner sewing series! It was very helpful! Thank you for making it! Stay awesome!
Thank you Evelyn! Great information.
I've bought one pattern sofar, and trying to figure it out only gave me a headache. So thank you, things start to slowly make sense to me. 🤗❤
Thank you for this video. I always end up changing the size. Did not know about “finished” garment size info.
Great info,I have a better understanding, now I will try and make that shirt I want.
you are so helpful thank you
Great idea!
Thank you so much for sharing all your sewing knowledge, it is so very helpful,
I have made garments that were so large and it was very confusing. Teresa in Mn
This is extremely helpful and informative!!
Fascinating no clue about all this. So much to learn may be a while before I get stuck in 😃
Thank you so much for all the videos you have uploaded as a new fashion student it helps me so much and makes my work way unique and professional from the others! Thank you so much 😭
Thank you so much Evelyn I really really enjoyed listening to you and learning about finished measurements on a pattern. I’ve never ever looked at this before, and it’s truly a revelation for me. This video is really really helpful and useful too. Please stay safe and well too xxx Mags ❤
I've heard the term. But, this is the best explanation of what it is good for.
This was extremely valuable information. Thank you. 🙏🏻
Thank you for reinforcing your tips on finished measurements ! I’m current attending local dressmaking classes and finally finished a skirt that actually fits. YaY
Thank you for explaining finished garment sizing.. As a beginner this video was a great help and confidence boost for me. A huge thank you.
as a beginner i am really enjoying your knowledge and wisdom you freely share with us. Thank you for your time and dedication
i hope you are doing well health wise, keeping you in my thoughts
Really informative, Evelyn. Thank you 😊👏
Learning about ease was a key piece to my ability to pick a pattern size that suited me better. I've also read in several places that patterns, at least the big companies, make their sizes for a B or C cup size (and probably a certain rear end / crotch seam ratio). Since I am more busty than that, finding a top that fits properly and doesn't look like a tent can be tricky. Will you be covering some basic adjustments for common fitting issues? Love your videos - so helpful in improving my skills and finish work on what I sew.
The ClosetHistorian has some pretty good videos including how to do a Full Bust Adjustment.
@@bunhelsingslegacy3549 TY
Thank you so much for making this video.
I was told today in a comment 5 1 30 that you go by finish garment measurements and then a few minutes later. I read another comment from another subscriber stating the same thing and I never knew that.
I stop showing 2 decades ago and I decided to pick it backup and notice. I was having the same issue with my garments being too big.
I just signed up can’t wait to get going and finally wear something I’ve started lol
Hi I really have to look at my pattern a bit more closely. After years of sewing I’m learning some more things. Thank you very much. I’ve been sewing all sorts of garments for at least fifty years. But this was an eye opener. Thank you again. I love all your sewing videos.
Thank you! As a older woman that has difficulties fitting bust (DD) and waist size 6 the ‘finished garment’ measurements are mind blowing!! 🤯
I watched this, forgot it, gave patterns away 😭 come back to it and am now hoping the new ones I bought will fit 😩
Im a relatively new sewer, self taught and only today really learnt about FGM as I've just finished a jumpsuits using my measurements and choosing the pattern sizes but the jumpsuit is huge. I was so disappointed. In future I'll pay attention to the FGM. Thank you for the explanation.
Hi Evelyn I'm from. South africa love your videos I'd like you to please post a video on how to take body measurements for instance a blouse n pants
great teacher excellent chaneel thank you
Us really tall girls appreciate finished garment sizing when printed with a pattern. 90% of the time I must make bodices, sleeves and legs longer, up to 10 cm in some cases. Ah, the joys of being 6'0" tall.
My mom made some of our clothes. I am tall and my right shoulder is lower than the left. I remember her having to fiddle with the sleeves to balance them out. I wear T shirts now and the neck is pulled to the back and I am constantly pulling it forward . I am 6'1'' also so I have made some pants and a few shirts. I need more time and room to sew. But don't we all?
4:24 yeah like the explanation on the skin problem because I have muscular arms and biceps and what are you do for a job it requires physical labor, so my upper ribs area are built up because I’m a full-time massage therapist, but I still want to look feminine, and my upper area is bigger toned. So I need to give extra room for that. Thanks for the explanations.
Ys this was my first time hearing this Thai you
Evelyn, this was a really informative video. I do have a question though. Do the big 4 pattern companies use the upper bust or just the bust measurement? I have heard that they use the upper bust measurement.
Thank you. I am even more confused. I was watching another video of yours that suggested that we should measure our high bust measurement and chose that pattern size based on this measurement and adjust accordingly. With kind regards
Could the back measurement be helpful for those who are either long waisted or short waisted? That's always been a problem for me in blouses and shirts. They're usually about two inches too short in the torso length.
Agree. They hardly ever discuss vertical measurements
I find those measurements useful because my "waist" height changes depending on whether there's a weaight-bearing waistband involved (ie, the narrow part of my torso is most assuredly not where I want any kind of waistband)
Yes I don’t understand why she said the finished length information wasn’t relevant. It definitely is. I need to shorten everything by 4-6 inches, and I prefer to cut the pattern before layout than waste fabric at the end. Even more crucial for tall people!
Thanks ease is a pain. It would be really nice if all the manufacturers would would at least print their ease number. But then that would make sense and they seem to enjoy confusing us!
Agreed. They make the math harder than it really needs to be.
Hey Robin, hope you're doing well. I'm deep into attempting to finish my vest for the Foundations Revealed competition. Soooo much to do...
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
@@stevezytveld6585 breathe Cathy you got this one step at a time
@@robintheparttimesewer6798 I have one last panel to quilt in the water detailing. Then I have to check the panels for shrinkage (there's about a 1/2-1" on the back sides and bottom edge; assuming the front panels will behave the same. Then there's the canvas interfacing (the twill tape at the edge will hopefully not take forever). Then the facing, lining and buttonholes. Then the photography, transferring them into a sendable format (prayers, incense, candles), and writing up the description paragraphs. Eek, I say.
The hand quilting on the fish took this side of forever...
This needs to be done by Wednesday. Inhale. Exhale. Been a hot minute since I was under a deadline...
Oh. And I brought home a new-to-me electric machine... a Singer Featherweight from 1949. Got her for a decent price and the previous owner did the rewiring for the original foot petal. She's cute and portable and I can take her with me when I get over to the God Kiddos for sewing lessons.
@@stevezytveld6585 breathe one step at a time!
Congratulations on the featherweight! They are a fun little machine!
@@robintheparttimesewer6798 The Featherweight stitch length has me in awe.
As for the rest of it - breathing, keep breathing...
Thank you so much - I've always trusted the pattern sizes and been disappointed. I gave up sewing for years as I figured I just wanted good at it. I will work with garment sizes and see if I can do better. To determine if the finished size will be okay, could I put the tape measure around me at hips/waist (eg pants) with the required amount of ease and use that measurement? Or would that not work? thanks.
The finished garment measurement will tell you if it is for bust, waist or hip.
Measuring your own comfortable clothes is another way I do it, but your way will help a lot and is a really good place to start, though it helps a lot more if your body is proportioned close to how patterns assume it is. I'm very much not shaped that way, but I'm finally starting to learn that my bust is squishy and needs less ease, my waist is about 10 pattern sizes larger than the one I'd use to fit my hips (going by Mood free patterns sizing anyways), and at a different height, depending on whether there's a waistband or not, and if I want my waistband holding up my skirt not to slide off over my hips, I need about three inches of negative ease compared to what I measure comfortably where my waistband will sit, but if I were to do that on a slim fitting dress, I look like an overstuffed potato and everything will ride up about two or three inches to where my narrowest part is, which happens to be about two inches above the bottom of my ribcage. I pretty much always end up having to take patterns in at the bust and let them out at the waist cause I'm shaped like a column with boobs... Commercial patterns just don't fit some people very well. I make most of my own patterns now, based on a bodice block that's fitted to my shape, but at least I know where to start if I'm looking at a commercial pattern for something other than baggy clothes. A lot of women have the opposite problem, a much larger hip to waist difference than most patterns have, and that's another thing to be aware of with your shape.
Best of luck!
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I want to point out that 5 cm is 2”. Becasue of common errors on patterns I prefer to measure the pattern pieces excluding the seam allowances
How do I know if I am petite miss or misses?
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Before I got fat, my hips, waist and bust were all different from the patterns so it has always been a problem. So I bought patterns using the largest body part. I am not buying patterns any more.
Never really paid much attention to finished measurements. I actually looked at the tissue paper of a pattern for finished measurements and everything looked reasonable except the numbers for the sleeve. For instance, I had a size 18 pattern and the number in inches was 16 1/2 for a long sleeve jacket. No way that’s the finished length, so what actually is that number telling me?? Thanks.
Adjustable forms are on sale at my local sewing store. Are they worth the money- $200 Canadian?
Probably. Especially if you adjust them to your size after purchase. Use padding or an old bra, so the bodyshape matches yours
Eh, I’d disagree somewhat? I bought a Dritz one on Amazon for $85 US, and I could have gotten away with a $35 display mannequin at Hobby Lobby because I padded it out to fit me anyway! Unless you’re a standard size (um, no, for most of us), you’re better off making one fit YOU instead.
I’ve heard about ease and had little understanding about it but you hit the nail on the head with this tutorial. Waist is pretty easy to measure but knowing vertically where on body your bust & hips are can be also important for measuring. I’m short and my hips don’t fall the normal 9 inches on patterns but are between 6.5 to 7 inches below my waist. I just made a muslin top before hearing this info on ease I’m getting ready to measure my pattern and see the difference. Actually ease was pretty good for waist and above but hip could be a just a tad looser. Thanks for making this so much easier to understand.
@Daxxydog I think making your own from scratch is a lot of work.
First writer is talking about adjustable ones. They don't need a lot of padding. I changed mine a few cm, and that was it. Most people change the bust by just adding a bra that fits them. It's a lot less work than building a total one. Also buying an adjustable one makes it easier over time when your body inevitably changes. I have been a sewist for 30+ years, and things are not what they were when I started ;)
Mannequins also have a disadvantage if you want to pin things into them, not only onto.
That being said, of course you should go with whatever makes you the happiest 😊 I can only speak about what has worked for me
In my case yes, I used a cheap bathing suit top and padded under it to get a bustline accurately. I finally have side seams that are vertical!
If the manufacturer really thought you needed room for a cantaloupe inside your waistband, wouldn't they illustrate it that way on the pattern envelope?
THAT's why they're always too big for me!