Do your sewing patterns NEVER fit right? Find out WHY and how to FIX it!
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- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
- So, what do you think the biggest hurdle when learning to sew clothes is? I know what it was for me! It was why sewing patterns NEVER seemed to fit me. I’m sure you’ve experienced, or are experiencing, this right? This video is about helping you get a better fit!
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// WHAT TO WATCH NEXT:
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HOW TO FIND EASE ON A SEWING PATTERN? The measurements you REALLY need, garment vs body measurements
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SEWING PATTERN SIZE DRAMAS! ✂ It doesn't fit me even though the measurements are correct! Why?
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SEWING PATTERN SIZE Stop guessing & start measuring to choose the right sewing pattern size for YOU!
• SEWING PATTERN SIZE St...
HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT SEWING PATTERN SIZE, when you're in-between sizes?
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Had to cut out subscriptions from my budget but I want to say that from the time I was part of VSS I learned an INCREDIBLE amount and it catapulted my sewing skills into a realm I could never have hoped for. To anyone considering joining the vintage sewing school, go for it! The community is drama free, the sheer amount of knowledge you can gain from the library of lessons is actually amazing. I look forward to becoming a student again in the future ❤
I’m loving VSS….but when I retire I may need to cut out subscriptions too. Trying to learn all I can while I can!!
As a male sewer wanting to see for myself how applicable would the fitting lessons be?
@@robinbebbington7063 All the fitting lessons are applicable to everyone! Not just for a feminine silhouette 😀
I LOVE VSS! I’ve had to pause my subscription on and off the last couple years. But it is SO worth the money! It’s actually kind of amazing to have such a great resource and it not cost more.
I am truly considering signing up when I retire. But can you access the course and get help no matter what the time zone? I do not live in Australia.
My biggest “lightbulb” moment was when I learned about vertical measurements. I kept hearing about the ones we all know..bust, waist, etc but my items never fit. I saw a tutorial on vertical measurements - arm hole depth being the biggest one for me - and it suddenly clicked. I was shortening my garments in all the wrong places, so even though I made the correct size, nothing hit in the area it should so the fit was terrible. My few garments since that revelation have fit much better! I’m feeling much more optimistic about my skills now, and I’m starting to take in more involved projects.
My shoulder to waist measurement is almost the most important one
My ahh ha moment was when you said, “Vintage Sewing School isn’t about sewing vintage clothes “. Seriously I thought it was! Well Da! Ok, now getting back to topic, I wish pattern companies who use high bust measurements. It would help so much with size selection. I measure a much larger size because of a fuller bust, in the end I need a smaller size with an FBA.
Donna are you using your high bust measurement to select your size or your full measurements ?
@@tishawright2780 it really depends on the pattern. I’ve mostly used indie patterns that include a high bust measurement and start from there. My HB and FB measure 4 inches different. I typically need a smaller size with an FBA and often use patterns that include an FBA. From there I often do a 1/4” narrow shoulder adjustment. I always check the amount of ease for the pattern as well. And being 5’2” I sometimes do a petite adjustment, shorten length, etc. If I go by the bust waist hip measurement many patterns put me in a size 14,16,or even 18. If I use the HB measurement to start I’m in an 8, 10 or 12 with an FBA. Sometimes I grad out one size at the hip. I’m a pear shape.
@@donnaschindlbeck7457your explanation was very generous to us readers, Donna. Thank you for giving a real world example of your experiences. I believe I will study your thought process because I am needing to select and adjust for narrow shoulders, bigger bustline, lower apex, higher hemline, less gaping neckline, not so deep armholes from overlarge pattern sizes.
@@cvan1075 I’m glad it was helpful! A few of my favorite indie pattern companies that work well for me are Cashmerette, Love Notions, Sinclair and Itch-to-Stitch patterns. They all use a High Bust measurement to select size. They also have FB groups for support. Happy sewing!
Would you consider one day doing a series on men's clothing? Just simple designs from the 30s and 40s. For daily wear, nothing fancy. Say trousers, and shirts for work and play, and a vest and jacket or coat. Not a suit, but daily wear for the working man! I am very much enjoying this series.
Love this suggestion! I’d like to make clothes for my sons, and this would be very helpful!
I'd love to see that too!
I started sewing as a teenager and unfortunately everything fit straight off the pattern. I say unfortunately because as I got older and changed shape I couldn't understand why things no longer fit!
Same for me!
I am in that same club. I sewed like crazy all through jr high, high school and college. Then...life hit! The body I have now is not the body that looked fabulous no matter what I wore. Learning to fit the "new me" is a challenge. VSS lessons are so helpful.
Hated most of my sewing teachers in school. The worst was a teacher who moved the bust dart on one side instead of having me make sure my bra straps were adjusted correctly. I ended up with a technically well-sewn garment that I was required to wear to school once and never wore again. Such a waste of my time and my mum’s money.
Hello coughknit(?) try to overcome the sad/frustrating sewing moments..I went through similar years ((I’m 67 and sewn for many decades happily and taught 5 grandchildren to sew!)..unfortunately mum wasn’t very patient, but I got over..try craft sewing (Easter bunnies, hen in shape of fat pyramid) or I started patchwork when I retired and now sew for domestic violence families…embroidery or tapestry is also another option. I wish you well..I’ve from other adult friends my age who refused to sew due to difficult times when they were young….never give up! Hugs, I’m sure you are very capable
@@cc83jc85 We’re nearly the same age! I too, shifted to non-clothing sewing and really never went back to clothes. My last useful Home-Ec sewing teacher was actually for a one on one summer sewing class. She listened to what my concerns were and we came up with a couple of dress projects that really worked. But she really knew how to sew, not just follow instructions. She was a student of my dad’s in high school and I remember seeing her state entry for the “Make It With Wool” competition. Wish we hadn’t moved as she would have been my teacher for sophomore Home Ec.
@@cc83jc85 How did you find an avenue to sew for domestic violence families? I would like to do that in my community.
@@martyleach6471 hi! Firstly, I was actually approached (she tapped me on the back of my shoulder) by a lady as I was browsing through a fabric shop! So I guess she presumed I could do some sewing (I can, but I’m not perfect, but they need people. I’m in Brisbane south side. You could look on Facebook and just search for similar words…I’ve found many others , also knitting ones too. Or a local library May have signs up, your council may help too. They get fabric rolls and sewing machines given to them these days, as the group has grown , the ladies also speak at different venues if asked…it makes people aware that it’s an ongoing need….here in Australia there’s also a group called “It’s In The Bag” where we buy a handbag (hopefully fairly large and fairly cheap) and through the weeks we fill it with personal hygiene items to fill this bag. I’ve done one for adult female, and this year so far I’ve done a teenage girl. Around November Bunnings collects them and then they are taken to be distributed among needed groups..this group is also on Facebook..but I’m sure you can do this anywhere…I’ve love to know how you go..PS: I volunteer in an Op shop, and very often there are very good quality bags and large ones, so I buy that…it saves me a few dollars…we’ve also listened to speeches of actual women who have escaped and how grateful they are for being helped…best wishes
In the '70s when I began sewing for myself at age 13, RTW clothing and sewing patterns actually were pretty much the same sizing. I wore an 11/12 in RTW and used a size 12 pattern. In the 80's was when manufacturers began developing phoney vanity sizing. A size 8 now is approximately what a size 12 was back then though this can vary from one manufacturer to the next..
Aside from wanting to save money (sewing was economical back then) I needed to sew because trousers were always too short in the legs, too long in the rise and much too wide in the waist. Sleeves were too short also. Knowing this, I quickly became adept at altering patterns.
Learning all of this these days for younger sewists has to be VERY difficult, as most people have grown up wearing what I call "stretchy-goo" clothing. Spandex means that manufacturers don't have to worry about fit as much.
As you learn to sew, keep in mind that woven cloth without spandex means that wearing ease must be included. I've seen so many over fitted garments on garment sewing forums.
Agreed that the vanity sizing that began in the 80's is a bane of modern existence, especially if you're learning. We've all become so used to things 'kind-a-sort-a-maybe-not-really" fitting on a body that we don't understand what proper fitting _looks_ like. The only time any of us sees properly fitted clothing in mass media is the red carpet or the runway, very rarely in real life. Overfitting is rather rampant right now in the different sewing forums. Ease is not easy...
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
@@stevezytveld6585 Cathy - you're my sister from another mother! Or as we say in the South - " you're preachin' to the choir!" My mom, 84, just rolls her eyes when I get on this soap box. She believes I should just wear stretchy-goo clothing like everyone else as she herself no longer sews nor has any desire to wear anything that isn't knit.🤨
@@tinamcnalley2575 Heck yes. On average, the overfitted bust that busts the buttons open seems to be the 'fall-down-go-boom' for allot of people. Unfortunately myself included - I dream of a fitted button up simple blouse that won't gape. Le sigh.
Enough with the stretchy-goo. We've all earned the right to wear clothing that actually fits our bodies. Especially if we've spent hours and hours to get there...
@@stevezytveld6585 Ahhh yes, the bust! The long legs, the short rise,the tiny waist (that disappeared years ago), the long arms, the narrow shoulders - all of it combined so much easier than dealing with "the tig ol' bitties" ( another southern expression - think about it😉) My least favorite acronym - FBA.
@@tinamcnalley2575 Ah, the dreaded FBA's... otherwise known as what I'm currently trying to make friends with...
T-rex arms, short waisted, sway back, and Dolly Pardon's front. Still daydreaming about that button up blouse. Otherwise known as what got me into sewing in the first place.
I am starting to sew and I have found like with ready wear, each pattern company has its own unique sizing! 😮
Design ease! You opened my mind to the styles I've picked that will never fit without major alterations. I will go forth as medieval peasant rather than a stylish 40's woman 😁
Hi Evelyn what a great video wish you had been around 50 years ago I am 71 and I have learnt so much on u tube since I retired you are a great teacher.
A HUGE change for me was learning to measure myself right- not just at the chest / waist / hips.
I easily triangulate my bust from my neck-to-bust apex measurement, and then from apex to apex measurement. This usually moves down the bust point about 2 inches on most patterns for me. Before, the dart would be on the top of my bust- but now it’s under them and pointing to the right spot 😊
I also learned that for fitting shirts and dresses with the big 4 patterns (Mcalls, Butterick, Simplicity, Vogue, New Look), if you’re over a B cup it’s best to use your high bust measurement as the bust measurement. This solved significant issues with fitting at the shoulders - I always picked by bust size but then the shirt would fall off my shoulders 😢 of course you will have to alter the pattern to fit your bust/waist/hips, but that’s a LOT easier than altering shoulders
Length also helps- from neckline to waist OVER the bust allows me to judge if the waistline is at the correct spot.
I now trace my patterns onto tracing paper and then go and edit them - adding or rotating darts, lengthening or shortening bodices or sleeves. And your truck to use bedsheets to test the pattern was genius, I do that now to great effect. I got a hip curve and French seam which was a very good idea
Still have a long way to go but you pick up stuff randomly and add it to your stash of “pattern alteration” options!
My favorite books are any fitting book by Nancy Zieman, The Vogue Sewing Book, and Barbara Deckert’s book on Plus Size Sewing. Also watched some RUclips tutorials about rotating and truing darts as well as grading up patterns
Oh also forgot to mention- fit as you go! That’s how I got my waistline to be good on my last dress. Basted the seam first, found I needed to pull in some at the front waist, then went to sew that seam for real.
Keep trying on your garment at every step as needed to see what needs to be changed
Thanks for the tips. Armholes frighten me. I always had a very narrow underbust (in European bra sizes it is a 70) which often leads to reglar clothes having the armholes too far out on the shoulder even if it isn't a drop shoulder. Feels and looks bad. So I often took my size but the armhole lines of the smaller size. But now my bust is a lot bigger as well and since I started doing more sports my shoulders got bigger and my arms more muscular. So now I also need to plan for accomodating more space in the armhole and sleeve, the bigger bust and more muscular shoulders and arms.
Compared to that altering pants for my big butt is quite easy. Choosing the right size, lenghtening the butt seam, shortening the crotch seam and the front of the pants, taking in the sides a little and then I'm good to go. Pants really aren't as hard of a sew as many people say. I never struggled as hard with them as with tops out of woven fabric that have sleeves.
Sewing patterns never fit right for me. Mock ups are constant in my life. I have an hourglass figure with extra minutes, so I have a challenge in fitting.
"Extra minutes!" I have to borrow this phrase 😁
@@KlingonPrincess Me too.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
I think I’ve lost a little time, there,😂 Stealing that phrase though!
Working my overtime here.
I am thinking YES, this IS what I need to know!! Having made toiles I don’t know what to do to adjust it to fit me properly. Also, choosing the right pattern/shape garment is crucial. Why do I think that just because I like the look of a pattern, the style/shape will automatically suit me (when I know full well I’d never try that style/shape in a store!!) Really looking forward to next week’s video. Thank you.
Great video! My "ah- HA" moment was when i realised why NOTHING ever fit properly despite the right "measurements". I have a 19" nape to waist! My height is mostly in my torso, and have shorter legs than normal. Patterns at best accomodate for 17and half in the larger sizes. Realising there is huge variation in shoulder to bust point, and then bust point to waist. These all vary in every single person. And not every womans bust sits at the same point on their chest to another woman. Understanding that is what made me a viking at fitting. Just wish my friends had the same knowledge so they could fit as well as I do for others as they can for me...but we all get there in the end!
It took me years of sewing to figure out I must always make a fitting garment using cheap fabric. Once it's fit properly for my body, I cut the garment at the seam lines and use the pieces as a pattern. Of course, you have to remember to add seam allowance. I like to use tracing paper along the cut lines as a stitching line.
Most pattern companies produce proportion-altered patterns to suit your body type while also helping at the different stages of life - while also giving the ranges of actual sizes. When looking at the catalogues, in the first few pages you should find a description about this and what they call each type. Body type does come into it a fair bit. I'm a soft gamine - like Audrey Hepburn (who's a dramatic gamine) but a little more fleshy/rounded and a bit more overall weight. Being short, I've had more success with "petite" and "misses" proportioned patterns along the vertical line - torso, sleeve and leg lengths match better. After I had kids and gained weight I had to switch to "woman" proportioned patterns which accommodated my more rounded and dumpy body, but I had to shorten at the waist, sleeves and legs. Now I've thrown away most of my excess weight (I'm not looking for it so I haven't lost it!), I'm back to being able to use misses and petites again!
I'm happy for you that you're able to use patterns that work again!!
I have a short torso and low rise so despite not really being short, petite pre-made clothing sometimes worked for me, but despite not really having gained weight, my shape has changed a lot in the last decade (I most certainly have not gained any hips despite gaining bust and waist) so now I'm just making my own stuff that's comfortable, now that I've gotten a princess seamed bodice block that I've modified to fit myself. It's amazing though just how much my measurements lie, every time I've measured myself for a pattern I've still had to reduce the bust and increase the waist. But now I know that, and I make sure I am generous with the seam allowances when I make my mockups.
Never realized that there were FINISHED MEASUREMENTS to be aware of. I knew about body measurements which differs from store sizes. I didn’t know about finished measurements and the ease of the garmet
I used to sew as a teen, and I always matched the measurements,so no problems. I'm retired and decided to start sewing again , but my waist and hips are 3 sizes bigger than my bust. Never knew much about ease. Love watching your videos!
Hello from Texas!
Thank you. My sewing teachers after three years in school never taught me about ease. I was always so hard on myself as to why things were not working out so now I see why. I never had a term to attach it to. I guess I really should read the envelope in depth. I am just getting back into sewing after twenty years. Thank you Evelyn. Now, I need to find a video on how to sew a buttonhole I can't remember. I also need to learn about facings and no facings. I really do not like facing and I was wondering if there is a way to avoid them.
You can avoid facing by doing a lining. Sometimes you only need to do it for the bodice.
Great tips. I sewed clothes for myself when I was younger and was constantly frustrated for many of these exact reasons. I ended up giving up on sewing for many years. But after having children, I couldn't resist the urge to try to learn to sew for them. As I started sewing for them I observed some of the things you mention like how the sizes aren't equal to what a ready made garment of that same number is. I watched a lot of tutorial videos, read some great books for reference and have phoned a friend who sews to help me get over the bumps along the way. So I have had some aha moments while observing my results of pattern/fabric selection and end result and then I started measuring pieces to see finished size and adjusting as needed for my kids. And I've been able to use that successfully to adjust several patterns now for my 4 kids and I was even able to draft and adjust and sew a lovely Christmas dress for myself from a 1950s drafting magazine. That was a lot of work but I learned a lot and it was a great confidence booster and makes me more excited to keep on learning new things. I've really enjoyed all the tips and helpful tools you have shared. I wish I could afford to join your vintage sewing school. But for now I just watch all your amazing videos. Keep up the great work. Thanks again.
Learning to sew with children is the best. They love you and are always pleased when you make them things. The best part though is they aren’t still so no one but you will ever know that the hem went wonky or whatever didn’t go quite right. They also push you out of your comfort zone when they decide that of course you can do the magic to make the thing!!
"Patterns are designed to be altered"! AHA! That is such common sense, major face palm moment LOL🤦😑😂
I wish I had extra income for your school. I do like the vintage patterns. They have a level class that today's clothing doesn't have.
I am 51, and I am learning sew. I am making a shirt for my Pomeranian.
Big lightbulb moment and made me feel a lot better about my sewing. Its a wet cold day here in nz and im spending my day learning from you. Thank you so much
Your videos are making my life learning to sew so much better
I was feeling nervous this morning about starting to sew a coat, but thanks to your succinct explanation I now have a plan - measure my old coat, measure the pattern, start adjustments on paper, and go from there.
Confidence is my issue.. but I'm taller than most patterns allow for so it's knowing where and how much to lengthen to get the fit right! Looking forward to next week's video.
Don’t know if you know about Sinclair Patterns but their patterns include Tall, Regular and Short versions of the same patterns. You can chop and change - if you’ve a long torso, but not necessarily extra long legs you can choose the different options to create your own custom fit garments.
@@seasidestitches615 I've not heard of them before so really appreciate you taking the time to reply. Thank you!🙏
Thank you. I have been winging it, try fail try again and try succeed with cutting and trimming. I now am ready to learn and understand how the fabric becomes a properly fitted garment. 15:12
I need to tell you how much I enjoy your clear way of taking care of questions we all have in sewing! Thank you for helping!
I really liked your explanation on design ease. Never thought of that. Always choosing patterns because they were pretty lol never realizing this probably won’t fit my body shape. Thank you so much for opening my eyes. 😀
I am just learning how to sew and your topics helps a lot thank you ❤
You are a fantastic teacher! I love watching your videos. Thank you for confirming that 'garment size' is where I should be focusing on.
I really appreciate all these tips. I make sure I measure myself and my patterns. I even take my clothes I like the fit and measure them. Vertical measurements are also important & very helpful. I discovered I was going to far down on my hip for tapering in my pants legs. I was going down 9 inches and tapering down to hemline. There was just this loose hanging fabric from my hip. When I corrected it it wasn’t too tight but just had a much better shape to my high & low hip.
I enjoy hearing you talk about your body measurement and finished garment measurement, how to use design ease to your advantage that was very helpful to me .
Ditto. This was my light bulbs moment
Really loved this video! Just what I wanted to know! I haven't done a lot of sewing for myself for years. I raised a severely disabled child plus 5 other kids until 7 years ago and am now just getting ready to sew for me. It's really surprising what you forget. I listened to this video saying, oh yeah I know that, oh yeah I remember that.and so on. You're awesome can't wait to watch more of your videos! Thanks, Shawna
I have been watching you in Canada for a few years and you are enchanting. The reason I watch is because my mother was so expert that she couldn’t articulate the methods she used: “it’s obvious, watch me”. Therefore I learned by myself appreciating what I saw and attempted. Can you now help me pass through another block by helping me with this personal quandry by speaking about modern taste. You understand vintage style and a need to choose to wear well designed clothing. I now live in an area that doesn’t have many public places. My out-of-home excursions and my at-home dressing though can be enhanced by wearing what I prefer to wear. Instead I wear sports pants and larger T-shirts and outdated fashions for my age. So, I need to enjoy sewing modern fabrics and choosing updated or redesigning classic pattern lines so I can learn to sew garments that are worth the money and time invested in them. Is it functional utility or public confidence or knowledge about my age-appropriate style I need to enhance? I sm so longing to learn from vss. My mom is 91 and it would be fun to look great in a princess line full bust adjusted top in a fabric that isn’t stiff. Or make tunic tops to replace T’s. Do I make sense to you? Are others facing the same barriers to sewing? I am tired of quilts. My dollies are waiting for me….
So appreciate you! Thank you for helping me learn to sew.
I made a very basic pattern top just matching my size which is 24 . well yes it fits but tight so yes i Can relate will be going for a bigger size from now on
I love your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge! ❤
I loved this video! One thing I've never understood is why so many sewing patterns don't include finished measurements, or just include a couple (and they never seen to be the ones I need). I'm used to knitting patterns which nowadays include a diagram with most measurements on them (and you can often figure out the rest from what they provide).
If you can then buy a multi-sized pattern and measure between the seamlines yourself to work out the finished garment sizes if they don't tell you. Remember to omit the gaps in darts on the pattern that won't be there in the fabric after you've stitched the darts. You can achieve that easily, until you get the hang of it, just by folding the darts on the pattern before measuring. (After you've done that once you probably won't need to bother folding the darts on the pattern for future measuring.) Then, of course, write your findings down and keep them in the pattern envelope for future reference. :-)
@@meganmills6545 Except I typically take the largest size -- and that's precisely why I want the finished measurements. I already have a couple of patterns I've never made because the ease on the largest size is not enough and I'm going to have to grade.
@@gadgetgirl02 Ah yes - I've had that problem myself so I know just what you mean. In those situations I've looked at how much they added between each of the smaller sizes in the key pattern areas. Often it's always the same amount of difference between the waist, bust, hips etc circumferences that they've added - but not so much difference in lengths.
For a nightgown I really, really wanted I added the "standard difference between each size" to the key areas on the largest size in the envelope to make a pattern and then put that on to some lightweight interfacing that I could easily pin or baste together and try on to see what needed tweaking. It was a bit of pain to do but it worked. I then applied an iron-interfacing to the interfacing I'd trialled and kept that as my new permanent "pattern pieces". Or so I thought. Since then I've completely changed sizes. Grrrrr. Mind you - that was about 30 years ago so... :-)
@@meganmills6545 Okay, but that still assumes one already owns the pattern in order to look at the pieces, or else that the relevant finished size information is on the back of the envelope. Like I said in the original post, that's often missing from the envelope entirely, and scant if it's there. Like a dress pattern which only provides the finished bust size and not the waist or hip measurements, or only gives these "cross" measurements but not the length.
The very first thing I ever sewed on a machine was when I made a skirt. I was a tall, gangly 11 year old, and learned lengthening skirts right along with reverse stitching at the start and end of seams. I was taught from the start it was a given I would need to make alterations. It was what got me into making my own clothes, really.
So I've been aware for decades that pattern envelopes are often painfully insufficient in this regard.
@@gadgetgirl02 The idea was meant to be that if you can, and one is available, then it can be helpful to purchase a multi-size pattern if you love a style but they don't put the finished sizes on the envelope or on the pattern pieces. It wasn't meant to be a universal cure-all for every possible situation. I'm sorry none of the suggestions can be any help to you. With a bit of luck they might be helpful for someone else. :-)
Yes! Spot on
Evelyn you share my sisters name so of course I had to subscribe 😉 looking forward to gaining more knowledge
Oh thank you so much!!!
As a busty girl if I want a blouse that doesn't gape shamelessly I have to do a large bust adjustment. I have seen suggestions that I should use the high bust for my top which will give me a better for as the bust itself is easier to tune etc.
I put together my own little pattern online and put all of my measurements in so that it would be better fitter for me - said what sort of fit and ease I would like and everything
Then I start sewing everything and put it aside for over half a year because I realized they just went with the generic size that fits my description the best.... Thanks for clearing this up!
This is the crossroads I am finding myself at right now. I have sewn across my life bit never understood why patterns were never right for my fit. Either too big or tight. I am trying to make children's clothing for grands. Boy am I struggling. Looking forward to next video. Signed up today for 7 day trial
Love this ! And I love vintage sewing school . I’m addicted
Learning from this video that I can go by the ease and final garment measurement to choose the right size for some patterns. Thank you 😊
Thank you for this video no wonder I got confused in the early days of sewing I know better now
I’m just about to start making clothes for myself, learning so much for your you tube videos! Have made children clothes but finding the sizing and adjustments hard
This was very good information to learning and go back and watch the video again in case you miss something , Evelyn I enjoy all of your video I take note I do appreciated you sharing your information here on You Tube thank you for your knowledge.❤
I love this topic, great sharing 👍🌵🌿🌺☘🌻🍀🌷
I used the ease rule and calculated 8 inches (!) of ease! Seems like so much! I’m scared to go down that many sizes…
but I’m also using a stretch fabric, double naughty. I hope it works out.
Evelyn! I just got my book my Readers Digest, “Complete Guide to Sewing”! It’s an amazing resource. Currently it’s in quarantine since it clearly was stored in Nana’s basement. 🤢
My only disappointment was that the book does not address men’s clothing. Do you have a book recommendation for a sewing guide for mens clothing?
So grateful for your videos, thank you for sharing your love of sewing.
Always great advice 💜
I want that skirt!!! ❤🖤
hi Evelyn, my a-ha moment was when i found out that most patterns are drafted for a Bcup at the bust, which means I always have to do a full bust adjustment. Also to accommodate my waist which is always larger and shorter than on the pattern
Right now I seem to be in stage "ease". And ease is not easy, especially when you're busty and curvy. Thank you for the peak at the other stages I've yet to work through.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Hey Cathy how are you doing on this bright and sunny day?
Ease is tricky it still gets me. I asked my daughter about making her a corset. She actually said she’s thinking about going into Toronto and getting one made. She already has the corseted body without the corset and thinks it might be tricky. I guess I have to give her that. Someday I will make something for myself.
@@robintheparttimesewer6798 Hey Ms. Robin. Our internet went down last night. But, other than having to sit on hold with Bell, it's been a good weekend.
I think you should make a corset for yourself. Do. It. Be your own guinea pig, because, why not. Wearing something that actually fits your body feels amazing. You've more than earned the right to feel amazing. Plus, I suspect final fitting issues are easier to deal with on yourself than having to rely on "I dunno, it feels funny around this point...".
Plus Farthingails in Stratford means buying a busk won't involve waiting for out-of-country shipping.
I'm still working on the FR entry. Only five fish left to hand quilt. Then machine quilting in the water effects. Then closing the darts and the fitting. Send thoughts full of chocolate... Then the internal tailoring with the canvas layer. It's looking possible at this point. Fingers and toes crossed, salt pitched over shoulder, wood knocked...
Oh! And I bought a shelving unit for my "studio" space. It's made a huge difference - it means that I Have A TABLE. I can finally work on things without having to shift piles around.
@@stevezytveld6585 Cathy I’ve been thinking about making myself a corset or a bra. Almost nothing in my wardrobe fits properly right now. I’ve gained a bunch recently. I never realized that Farthingails was so close.
The FR entry is sounding wonderful. I’m sending thoughts of chocolates as well as all the other things! You’ve got this!
@@robintheparttimesewer6798 Yeah, the Farthingails people are practically in your backyard (thank you Stratford Festival...). Let that be your corset project invitation.
I tried making a bullet bra two summers ago. 5 pieces, thought it would be easy. Um... Although, now that I'm in FR for the rest of the year I may go back to it. Also want to get back to the Red Threaded Regency half stays I was Franken-patterning. I suspect I was closer to done on the mock-up than I thought I was at the time.
I want to try for a corset because, apparently, the weight of the girls gets carried in your waist. And that, to me, sounds like this side of heaven...
Try for a corset. Because, why not.
But, seriously, put yourself high on the 'to-do' list. You deserve it. If you're looking for a bra, Nordstrom's is surprisingly cheep (I think bras are their equivalent to grocery stores selling milk... lost liters...).
Thank you for the chocolate thoughts. I may need them. Right now it's down to me and the clock...
@@stevezytveld6585 yes Cathy you are right. I do deserve to be on the to do list! I actually have a fair amount of books and info on bra making. I’ve been threatening to make myself something that actually fit for years both bras and corsets.
I found a light weight wool blend material on sale. I think it will make a good wearable mock up for my dream coat. But then I found some buffalo plaid also on sale. I bought a bunch so I can make matching (material maybe style) coats for son and grandson! The fact that it will match one of the coats my son has bought for the dog is totally besides the point lol. I’m thinking of a barn coat style. I have some duc and lots of red fleece so warmth shouldn’t be a problem. I really need my brain to shut up. Also given the time of year I should make son’s and leave grandsons till fall, can’t trust him not to grow!
Anyway I’m rambling. I have faith in you I’m sure that you will be able to finish. Remember to stay on target and that there will be chocolate at the end!!!
Thanks,
looking forward to the video on how to measure pattern pieces. I am never sure about that? Also, I do a back adjustment and forward shoulder adjustment but I am never sure exactly WHERE to do it.. I have a high hump?
I look at my size, then look at the finished measurements that tells me how much ease. Sometimes I can size down to the smallest size if it’s a woven pattern with more ease than I like.
I wish you could show us all of that beautiful skirt (that you are wearing in this video). I have never seen that print before.
You are such a cute lady…clever and talented and give a unique presentation. One of the best seamstresses on RUclips. Love your opening!
It seems like I have finally found the right place to ask this question. My grandmother in law was an amazing seamstress but she suffered a stroke and can't sew anymore. So she let me peruse her personal pattern cabinets (yes she had 4 old JoAnnes pattern cabinets chalk full of patterns.) There were sooooo many wonderful patterns in there, but I realized after I had taken several bags worth of patterns that many of them are not my size....How do you size up or down a pattern?
I don't know where I could get these patterns again and I really want to use them once I get better at making my own clothes. I dont want them to go to waste :( Help!!
There are videos on RUclips with the late Nancy Zeiman how she shows you how to size up a pattern.
Measuring pattern pieces confuses me so much so I think this series is going to help so much. I was between sizes on a pdf pattern where they cut the pdf into curvy or not. I’m trying to decide if I should just reprint in the smaller size so o don’t have to worry about doing a bust adjustment but I might try making a rough draft first and see if there is any saving it so I don’t have to reprint/recut.
I’m confused. Now 74 years old and about to embark on dress making again. Had my mum’s 1960’s Jones machine serviced and I’m good to go. However, when I was a lot younger, tweaking the pattern wasn’t necessary (maybe my figure then was proportioned better). I like loose comfortable clothing so always cut the material slightly more than the size line. It worked and my projects were very acceptable. Nevertheless, I’ve recently noticed the New Look pattern measurements for bust waist and hips are not “balanced” as they were, in fact they’re quite off kilter (in my opinion). I think Simplicity has a better handle on body measurements and easement. Can anyone recommend a particular pattern manufacturer where the proportion sizing is not out of sync?
My ah-ha moment was that my measurements lie. If I'm making something fitted that doesn't have a waistband, I'm going to have to take in the bust and let out the waist. So far it's happened every time, even when I'd drafted the pattern based on my own measurements. If I make a waistband that needs to hold up my trousers or a skirt to the actual measurement of my waist (neverminding ease), it'll slide right off over my hips, my waistband has to be about 3" tighter than a snug measurement taken at the height my waistband goes. My "natural waist" (narrowest part of me) is not at all where I want a waistband, any weightbearing waistband has to go in that 1" gap between my bottom rib and the top of my hip but if I use that location and measurement for a dress, everything's completely wrong.
You always have perfect fitting clothes 🙃
So are you saying to pick patterns on finished size per your measurements?
I am a newbie to sewing. Does the finished garment measurement already include fitting and design ease even if it is not stated on the pattern?
It should do - patterns give the body measurements on the pattern envelope, but sometimes, inside it will give you the finished measurements, which of course are a lot bigger, because if the ease.
Fun fact about pattern sizing. A size 8 was originally intended to fit an 8 year old, a size 10 was originally intended to fit a 10 year old, and so on.
For me, its trusting my measurements & & placing them on the pattern piece, uugh!
Is design ease what they call negative ease?
🤗
You say your body shape is a pear. Is there a video on body shape? How do you know? I certainly wouldn't want to find out L'm a Lodgepole Pine or an apple shape! However, using ease, designer or whomever, should fill the bill. Correct? Anyway, love ya. ajh
I can never get pants to fitmy bigger mature rear end lol
Why is it our fault when patterns aren't manufactured properly?
hello
thank you madam
how are you
How is your tailor work going?
Sounds suspicious
@@daxxydog5777 Not at all ma'am
I always watch his videos - I like them very much - that's why I asked
thank you
Commercial patterns are dreadful quality, and anyone who can get them to fit is doing a great job. They are full of errors and poor instructions as well as lousy fit. The big pattern companies hire beginner patternmakers straight out of college, because they're cheap. We all got excited when the big 3 reproduced some popular vintage patterns from the 40s and 50s yet many of them were such a dreadful fit (the worst being the famous walkaway wrap dress) that there are dozens of youtube and blog discussions on how to get them to work. Shocking service from pattern companies. You're paying big money for a cheaply made paper product, that is not even fit for purpose. So the original vintage patterns are more valuable than ever.
I think to sew anything “fitted” you need a mannequin. For leisure where “loose fitting” is the norm, if you take your measurements and check the pattern, you should be relatively OK. Just our breasts fo instance…no one has the same so unless you are slim as a stick, all over….measure, measure, measure.
You gave a lot of information but never gave any real advise.
No advise I guess we have to attend the school
$19.00 USD PER MONTH.
Yep, it sucks.
Always check early in the toile and fitting stage that your garment is easily on and offable so to speak. It's no good having what seems like a great fit if you have to writhe around like a stricken fish to get in or out of it! That way you can tweak things like zip length to accommodate ease of dressing for the other size adjustments you have made