Useful video, thank you. I would love to join your sewing school, but I am in the UK and my bank charges me a fee for foreign currency exchange payments, whereas Paypal does not, but Paypal doesn't appear to be a payment option. On a monthly basis, my bank would charge me too much to make it feasible.
My trick for understanding drape is to cut a 10cm fabric square and place it on a Pritt glue stick. Drapy fabric (like silk) will fall on the four corners, semi-stiff will fall on two corners (like light cotton cretonne), stiff fabrics will stay flat, with the 4 courners up
I have realized that I never thumb up videos that I like. I don't know why. Honestly, that's terrible. I have to remind myself to PRESS THE LIKE BUTTON. That way we support the creators whose content we enjoy.
If schools still offered sewing classes and learning about garments more would understand what you teach. You remind me of my sewing teachers. Thank you
At the school which my grandchildren go to, all students must do a sewing term regardless of gender. Students can choose textiles as an elective subject. Until COVID, the students made the costumes for their yearly stage production.
At most schools these courses are actually provided, they’re just electives (students decide if they want to take the class), at my school it was called fashion design. Once you were finished with the beginner course you could take more advanced one where students would make their own fashion line and show it at a fashion show. It was pretty cool, I would’ve taken it but I already had a full load unfortunately
My class was the last to take sewing at my school before they discontinued the program about 10 years ago, but at the time I thought sewing was dumb and didn’t understand why it was a class, so I didn’t continue with it after the class ended. But recently I’ve gotten into the habit of mending my clothes by hand, and I’m going to borrow a family friend’s machine to try to learn before I get my own
Thankyou for all that good information Evelyn. There has been a huge decline in the availability of fabric stores over the years. Fabric used to be plentiful and cheap. Not so now, it pays to be sure what you want these days.
SO TRUE, and what stores remain are either terrible (I'm looking at you JoAnnes), or quilting focused. Nod to all my sister quilters, but I am not in to it. Man, I miss the days of funky fabric stores, dark and musty with treasures lurking in every mildly chaotic aisle. I like thrifting, but I'm a big kid and need more yardage =P
Decent fabric/haberdashery shops are nearly non existent in uk. Even our charity shops are small and therefore don’t stock the sort of things that you see in US & French charity/second hand/thrift stores.
I have a vintage (2nd. hand) Fabric Dictionary. It lists every fabric under the sun, along with hand, sewing information, care and use etc. Some patterns will have a ruler on the side so that you can test the recovery of knits.
@@Evelyn__Wood I found the stretch fabric information very helpful also. Makes me understand why the stretch jumper I recently made doesn't have quite enough stretch! 🐾
I once told my kids they could design their Halloween costume and pick their own fabric out of the stash. Learnt a hard lesson. Daughter decided she wanted a two colour shirt with box pleats. She picked two similar fabrics but it was 1970’s polyester so I had to stitch in the fold lines for every pleat!! I was much more careful with my instructions and had a spelled out veto if their fabric would not do what they wanted after that!!! It worked in the end but it involved a lot of late night sewing and cursing!!!
@@bridgetkuhns7338 The felting of wool has nothing to do with the percentage of wool. 100% wool usually naturally felts as it is water laundered. This is why it is best to dry clean most wool garments, as the felting process is actually a type of damage - shortening the life of the garment. Plus many wool garments are built with structuring that isn't meant to be water laundered. Even dry cleaning takes its toll. I only water launder wools that are used for other purposes. Lining an ironing table or if I wanted a very casual wool jacket - and I would most likely dry clean it afterwards as I probably would not want to continue the felting process. Lots of fibers can be felted with mechanical processes - including wool. Wool will usually hold up longer than man made acrylics, polyesters and such.
Tina thank you for your advice. I am making a felted jacket and I am trying to add a color the fabric made not entirely of wool. I do not have a dryer, but I did put the fabric in boiling water. The fabric was 80% wool. It did not felt.
Rojee sahu, I DO use quilter's cotton for MOST of my sewing! I prefer it and have inherited much of it! I find the "bagginess" comfortable and modest. Elastic can be used to aid in fitting, where needed.
I would only use quilters cotton if I could cut it on the bias so that it would have some drape. I find quilting cotton just doesn't have enough drape unless you do that.
Thank you! I never thought to look at the pattern picture to help decide fabric weight. I always defaulted to stiffer fabric for more structured clothes. Its great to know the "why" behind the decisions. it was mostly intuitive
Absolutely! And it will really show you the drape and fall required for the fabric to get the same look as well. I can't wait for you to look at your next pattern and use your fabric now!
I am a weaver and hand spinner. My focus on creating my own wardrobe has always been based on what the Georgians ( US 1700s ) did. I am also very focused on using the fibers from the period as well as the looms and spinning wheels from the actual period - not modern tools. I also raise sheep and have a friend who raises flax. Cotton I purchase for weaving purposes as I live in the N.East of Us and it doesn't grow here. There are weave structures that produce Calimancos, Dimity, Diaper, Twill, Satin, Harateen, Tweed, Linen and a host of cloth we no longer know the names of. The drapey fabrics you have covered here are not something I am terribly familiar with and I'm just starting to venture into that world only because I am reconstructing thrift haul finds and often they are such as you mentioned. Thank you for the excellent info!
When I follow the recommended fabrics listed on the pattern, not a problem. When I shop my fabric stash, now that’s another thing altogether. Maybe you could do a video on how to determine what we have in storage? Or have you done one? Love your channel.
@@Camille-dq8qg There's also an app available called 'Sew Together' which I'm currently using to keep track of not only my fabric stash, but my patterns and haberdashery. I find it very helpful as I can take it with me when I go fabric/haby shopping so I don't end up repeating purchases. Its a monthly subscription job, but it's not that expensive - roughly the cost of a 14" zip a month and I've decided the paid version is worth the extra money for all the other things it enables me to keep track of and the fact that there are no limits to the number of items I can add to my various stashes.
My best advice is to READ LABELS! If you’re new to sewing, read the labels on the end of the bolts and really test the fabric with your fingers to get the feel. You’ll also see how badly or not so badly it will wrinkle. Definitely read labels!
ABSOLUTELY, read those labels. I almost bought some denim that required you to line dry, as in do not dry in the dryer. I read the label, and dodged a bullet on that one. I don't want to have to line dry my jeans.
This is exactly what I need!! I made poor fabric choices sometimes (even though I follow the recommended fabric from the pattern envelope), and kinda feel like if it's in a different fabric it'd look better, but didn't really notice or know how to improve. Thank you for this Evelyn! 🥰
Two weights I have used a lot, may not be used in Australia, bottom weight (garments on the bottom of your body like for pants or skirts that are generally heavier) and top weight (light to medium weights that are used for tops). An aside I have taken fiber, silk, wool, cotton and spun it into yarn. Then I have knitted it into a garment. I have also tried my hand at weaving.
HAHAHA the "bottom" and "top" weight makes sense to me now. I never knew what was meant by it. I just thought it was the material being top as in better and the bottom being flawed in the process. Now I know. Thanks
I used to make scrubs for my mom using cotton quilting fabric. They need to be cheap and practical more than look good. However, if you beat it up real good first. That stiffness sometimes goes away and it'll drape very nicely indeed
Holy cow, you should start a sewing school! Oh, wait... But seriously, I'm not even halfway through and have to say how great this video is already. You had me at "Fibre and fabric are not the same thing". Although I already know much of what you teach by now, you give me the tools to streamline my instructions for less experienced sewist friends. I know more about fabric and fibers than is needed in the home-sewist world simply because my old job required it, so I often hear myself offering more info than necessary. Thank you, Evelyn - if I am not nodding my head in agreeance, I am learning something new. You are a truly gifted teacher!
I feel like we should keep in mind that shopping for fabric is like buying the garment we want to make. Dont think about the fabric as something separate- it will become the garment so it is more like clothes shopping.
Yeah that’s pretty much how I do it! I wanted a soft jersey knit dress so I go to the knit section and find then the fiber I want. Same with other types
25 years ago I could go into my local Joann fabrics and pick fabrics for apparel. I loved touching all the fabric! I spent most of my time walking around touching the fabrics. Now I can’t do that anymore. JoAnns fabrics is all quilters and cosplay and I miss that so much. The way a fabric feels is called the hand of the fabric and I really get that. I don’t like ordering fabric online because I can’t touch it, but mostly I don’t have a choice as there are no apparel fabric stores near me. Just an observation, is anybody else find this to be true?
I agree, I mostly sew linen or silk but wanted a linen/silk mix for a kaftan I had see modelled that was in this fabric. It looked quite flowing & with the belt looked lovely. I managed to find some linen/silk online & ordered it. When it arrived I thought it looked a bit stiff but made it anyway. It was a disaster as I am slim & it was too structured even with the belt. An expensive mistake, If I had been able just to go & buy in a shop I would not have bought it. I am in the UK & there are hardly any fabric shops now & the ones that are still open have only a limited stock.
Karen, I completely agree with you about Joann. Not only are their apparel fabrics few and far between, they are organized by “collection”. So Silky prints include polyester, rayon and cotton. I’m forever undoing the end of the bolt to read the fabric content. I also cannot order online because I’m still a touchy-feely kind of shopper. I have been fortunate enough to find some linen rayon blends at my local Joann. But yeah, nothing like what it once was.
I think the real dearth of apparel fabrics is one of the biggest problems I contend with in sewing my own clothes tbh. I have a couple of favourite fabric stores (apparel only) which I love, but there comes a point where you've exhausted the stuff you love from them and are really searching for what you need next. I find I'm always having to settle for what I can get. This is the case even when I look online for international stores too. I often look back and wish I had bought whole rolls of fabric I really loved, even though that would mean having 2 or 3 garments in one fabric.
I’m exactly the same !! I love to feel the fabric so that I know how drapey it is. Hence why I’m always hesitant when it comes to buying fabric online because I don’t know how it feels. Just because it s labeled “cotton” , it doesn’t mean it’s the texture , softness what I after
This could not have come at a better time. Just put the waistband on a skirt and realized it looks ridiculous because the fabric is all wrong!! So frustrating. Here to learn 🤓
I was mainly a quilter for the last few decades but came back to garment sewing in the last year. I’ve had to learn about the different fabrics as I never used the knits before. ( got my first serger) . I wanted to sew some ponte pants for winter here. I ordered a double brushed ponte online. I got it but it’s so surprisingly heavy! I think I’d be exhausted by the end of the day just from the weight of it on my body. I forget what is in my stash and what it’s made of. So I’ve bought some card stock and will attach a square of my boughten material to it with info- fabric content, amount purchased, care instructions or even where purchased, item code ( in case I need more) , or garment made out of it and what were the results etc. and store in a binder. Then I can use as a reference for example- this is what a polyester chiffon feels like etc. Lofty ambitions, I just need to remember to do it. 😂
WONDERFUL!! I didn't know some of this until I was well into 20 years of sewing.... The Commercial patterns do NOT help you. This an amazing series ooof episodes and classes. Thank You!
Many thanks for that video, it was great! I now often chose woven linnen or cotton because it has more structure and looks nice on my body (I am 66 years). Many greetings.
Heike- I, too, am a senior citizen sewist and l like you prefer cotton. I like the structured look I like the way it feels and good quality yields a relatively easy care garment.
As usual you did a wonderful job of teaching us something that others of us just take for granted that we know. Thank you for showing me that I need to teach this to my grands. I just haven't thought of this. Thanks again!
@@Evelyn__Wood i did not even think about them buying clothes. you are so right . i am teaching them about good fabric. i am a firm believer in buying the best you can afford. iwas taught early that when you get cheap fabric , it does not last as long or look as good. my grandmama told me not to waist my time making something that will only disappoint. thank you for reminding some of us and educating some of us and helping all of us.
Thank you for making that distinction! Patterns state fibers, not fabrics! Loved this episode! Thank you! I have a journal with scrap pieces labeling the fabric! Ooooo, on denim I did make a bustier with a jacket. The weight worked well with the strapless top....
Thanks for this. I have a hard time choosing the right fabric. I’ve been noticing how a lot of fabrics are marked as cotton but they are totally different from each other!
Thankyou, I have learnt something today listening to your video. I have ordered online many times only to find the fabric unsuitable, now I know a bit more to help me choose. With less and less shops we end up online so unable to feel the fabric beforehand.
Thank you! This is very useful! Could you do more videos about fabrics? It's very difficult to navigate this subject for me, even as I am sewing for 3 years already
Just have a few more days until I can sign up for vintage sewing school. My mom didn't sew and I quilt and have made sweatshirts and sweatpants for my kids when they were younger. Now I am retired, I want to sew for my new grandbaby and want to learn everything I can to make better choices and have them turn out like I invasion them to be due to skills not luck and a prayer.
I am one of those that just buy cotton, make a shirt, then wonder why it didn't turn out right. Now I know. I am using the wrong material. LOL. I watched a video on linen last night. She talked about the different weights. She also has one on silk I'll watch tonight. Never to old to learn. Thank you Evelyn for such great teaching nd advice some of us never got at home. Now off to check out your school..
Helpful video. I love big baggy cottons that don't stick to my body. Hate hate hate anything synthetic. But then I'm a gardener, not a fashion maven. Different strokes and potato sacks for the win in my case!
Your information Evelyn is always very helpful in everything you show us, even though I have been dressmaking for years and years on and off, find I"m still learning something different each and every time. 😊✂️🧵💕
This was great! Like most I’ve just gone by feel. One thing, for the last few years I’ve gone for things I don’t have to iron. But this has restricted so many beautiful fabrics. Since I’ve been “stashing”, I’ve been encouraged back to cottons and linens, and am leaning again towards rayon, which I’ve not used much. A whole new world and time to emerge from leggings and tunics!
I'm nervous about the project I want to undertake mostly because of fabric options. I'm looking to make Howl's tunic from the last half of Howl's Moving Castle (gorgeous film if you haven't seen it!). It's plain, and tunics are apparently pretty easy, I just don't sew. 😅 While I want it to drape, I still want it to have some structure as opposed to just falling loosely, so I'm thinking about a cotton blend? I'll keep these tips in mind while I look, thanks for the awesome videos!!
This is such a great, plain language rundown of how to approach fabric (which is not fiber!). Thank you. Also I can't remember if I ever mentioned it before but I love how the intros to your videos are things like "Sewing friends." It's nice how they are gender inclusive of everyone.
What an amazing video, thank you Evelyn! You are great teacher! I have made some really bad fabrice choices... and there is nothing more frustrating than making a garment that is pretty much perfect BUT you cant wear it because the fabric is not good... you cant fix it in any way... just have to start over with different fabric. I will always remember to choose drapier fabrics for oversized garments!
Thank you for the info about the grams/sq. meter. I hesitate to buy online without being able to actually handle a fabric and knowing this will help immensely.
Something I made for my students in Vintage Sewing School might help you also, create yourself a chart and list the weights of fabric with some common types of fabric so you can start to learn what that weight might feel like. This will really help when shopping online 🙂
@@Evelyn__Wood I was thinking that very thing. I have quite a stash AND a postal scale so I will do some weighing of my own also. I looked to see if the fabric weight was printed on the bolt but it doesn't seem to be.
Love this video! As an American, I don't know what "modal" fabric is, so I looked it up: "Modal fabric is a semi-synthetic fabric made from beech tree pulp that is used primarily for clothing, such as underwear and pajamas, and household items, like bed sheets and towels. Modal is a form of rayon, another plant-based textile, though it is slightly more durable and flexible than the standard version. Modal is often blended with other fibers like cotton and spandex for added strength. Modal is considered a luxurious textile thanks to both its soft feel and high cost, as it is more expensive than either cotton or viscose." source: www.masterclass.com/articles/fabric-guide-what-is-modal-fabric#what-is-modal-fabric
I took sewing in 8th grade Home Ec class. I really wasn’t interested & was terrible at it. The teacher used me as an example of what not to do. When I got my first job I bought the first free arm sewing machine from Sears & taught myself to sew. I have made my own clothes and even quilts. I don’t like being told I can’t do something & will prove you wrong. Lol
One point worth making is that of nap like corduroy. Stretch fabrics that run. The fabric needs to be cut in such a way that the run will not affect the finished garment. I hope that makes sense to you. You are the person to explain this point I believe. Thank you so much for your videos
I sewed my first garnment (Nina Lee Kew Dress) out of a viscose cotton 50/50 blend and it was dreamy, so easy to cut and sew and still drapey and looked so nice as a dress and it forgave small fit issues because of its drape. So this might be a good choice for a beginner :)
Hi! I like learning about what I did not know I did not know, even though I have been sewing for a long time. Thank you and keep doing what you are doing. The more I learn the more I want to know! Take care and be well! Kelly
Evelyn….. You are an inspiration to me and thousands of others I’m sure. I love your sincere enthusiasm that makes me want to watch your every videos. Please keep making these xx
When you talked about using a quilting cotton for a blouse I definetely felt called out xD I recently bought a couple of meters of lightweight cotton from ikea that should be used to make courtains but I was hoping to get at least a pair of shorts or a coord set for the summer out of it, this guide is totally what I needed :)
Oh, I use quilting cotton for apparel all the time. I once bought upholstery fabric to make a nice heavy weight top, used some piping, looked smashing. I bought a fitted sheet at a 2nd hand store, made a blouse, get so many compliments, no one knows it's a sheet, tee hee. Cost me less than a dollar. Made out like a bandit.
Thank you! This was incredibly helpful. I knew that some of the stretch fabrics only stretched certain ways, but I didn't know about the weight, stiffness, etc based on thread count and such. I wish it was easier to read labels on fabric in stores. I wonder if they have that info on them anywhere. I need reading glasses to see the labels. LOL.
Hi Evelyn! All I can say is I think you are amazing....obviously a professional expert but just so positive, joyous and inspirational. You have rekindled my love of sewing - thank you and may your needles always stay sharp :) x
Phenomenal and really informative as always! Im a nerd by nature so deep dive on various aspects. I went down a deep dive on vintage hand needles vs modern needles and was shocked by the difference (and excited to find affordable japanese needles - not tulip - that have the same smoothness as vintage needles). As well as machine needles and what it actually means 😂. I do adore a viscose/rayon. Always so soft
Thank you! I tried to whip up a skirt for Halloween with some novelty Halloween fabric and it turned out great but I ended up with a pencil skirt instead of a half circle skirt somehow bc of the fabric! Def going to pay more attention in the future! Haha
Great video, Evelyn! Thanks for clarifying so many points and make them understandable. I always follow the pattern fabric recommendations, and as I started to sew during the pandemic, it's the best option as I can't touch the fabric beforehand. However, now restrictions are ending, and I will buy it after touching it, and this video highlighted some relevant points I'll consider. Thanks! :)
Very exciting and interesting video my dear . We really need video like this about fabric and fiber . Thank you so much for sharing my friend 👍👍👍👍👍👍👌👌👌
(Because you mentioned rayon fabric) I watched an advert for rayon from the 1950’s where this woman “time traveled” from the 30’s to the 50’s because she was sad there wasn’t better fabrics. She goes to a department store and everything she loves is rayon! Lol it was actually fun to watch.
Thank you for the fantastic content. I recently got back into sewing and found your videos that I have been devouring. I just finished the 7-day trial and now I'm ready to join your monthly subscription to continue to learn. Thank you for all your informative videos.
Thanks a lot, I am teaching Fashion Design in south of Spain. And have English speaking kids and adults. And my mother tongue isn't. So you help me a lot, I know theory but can't explain in English 😂
This is but a fraction of the fabric information that will serve you very well in your sewing! For the full university course come see me at vintage sewing school 😀
Dear Evelyn, Thank you for that video ! Great and veeery interesting ! I would be grateful if one day you make a video to help us about almost the same topic but from another point of vue : "I bought these amazing fabrics, but I never did anything because I don't know what to do with them / how to use them !". But maybe it is a stupid question.
If you like this content and are ready to take your sewing further, I invite you to join me at Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/
Useful video, thank you. I would love to join your sewing school, but I am in the UK and my bank charges me a fee for foreign currency exchange payments, whereas Paypal does not, but Paypal doesn't appear to be a payment option. On a monthly basis, my bank would charge me too much to make it feasible.
My trick for understanding drape is to cut a 10cm fabric square and place it on a Pritt glue stick. Drapy fabric (like silk) will fall on the four corners, semi-stiff will fall on two corners (like light cotton cretonne), stiff fabrics will stay flat, with the 4 courners up
I have realized that I never thumb up videos that I like. I don't know why. Honestly, that's terrible. I have to remind myself to PRESS THE LIKE BUTTON. That way we support the creators whose content we enjoy.
I love that 70s jumpsuit pattern!!
Thank you I appreciate that, and yes it does make a difference! It's nice to know you enjoy the videos ❤
If schools still offered sewing classes and learning about garments more would understand what you teach. You remind me of my sewing teachers. Thank you
At the school which my grandchildren go to, all students must do a sewing term regardless of gender. Students can choose textiles as an elective subject. Until COVID, the students made the costumes for their yearly stage production.
Awww they is sweet! And I agree, I would like this to become more common knowledge again !
At most schools these courses are actually provided, they’re just electives (students decide if they want to take the class), at my school it was called fashion design. Once you were finished with the beginner course you could take more advanced one where students would make their own fashion line and show it at a fashion show. It was pretty cool, I would’ve taken it but I already had a full load unfortunately
My class was the last to take sewing at my school before they discontinued the program about 10 years ago, but at the time I thought sewing was dumb and didn’t understand why it was a class, so I didn’t continue with it after the class ended. But recently I’ve gotten into the habit of mending my clothes by hand, and I’m going to borrow a family friend’s machine to try to learn before I get my own
Thankyou for all that good information Evelyn. There has been a huge decline in the availability of fabric stores over the years. Fabric used to be plentiful and cheap. Not so now, it pays to be sure what you want these days.
SO TRUE, and what stores remain are either terrible (I'm looking at you JoAnnes), or quilting focused. Nod to all my sister quilters, but I am not in to it. Man, I miss the days of funky fabric stores, dark and musty with treasures lurking in every mildly chaotic aisle. I like thrifting, but I'm a big kid and need more yardage =P
Maybe with the low fabric inventory, it's a good idea to repurpose fabric from discards or donated clothes? Clever searching reveals treasures....
@@jlewis300 .
Decent fabric/haberdashery shops are nearly non existent in uk. Even our charity shops are small and therefore don’t stock the sort of things that you see in US & French charity/second hand/thrift stores.
I have a vintage (2nd. hand) Fabric Dictionary. It lists every fabric under the sun, along with hand, sewing information, care and use etc.
Some patterns will have a ruler on the side so that you can test the recovery of knits.
What is it called? Sounds super helpful
@@bethrivera867 Fabric
@@jpclam3358 O.K. But this Fabric Dictionary book is written by whom please? I would appreciate the title and the author(s).
Thank you :-)
@@incanada83 Ann Ladbury Fabrics
wow!, have you seen it anywhere else? I would love to have a book like that that would be super helpful!
The advice you gave with the stiffer fabric for tighter clothing is such an eye opener for me. Thank you so much. It helps me a lot 💖
😀 Wonderful! Is simple things that make your fabric choosing so much easier!
@@Evelyn__Wood I found the stretch fabric information very helpful also. Makes me understand why the stretch jumper I recently made doesn't have quite enough stretch! 🐾
Very helpful. I learned the hard way.
I once told my kids they could design their Halloween costume and pick their own fabric out of the stash. Learnt a hard lesson. Daughter decided she wanted a two colour shirt with box pleats. She picked two similar fabrics but it was 1970’s polyester so I had to stitch in the fold lines for every pleat!! I was much more careful with my instructions and had a spelled out veto if their fabric would not do what they wanted after that!!! It worked in the end but it involved a lot of late night sewing and cursing!!!
😂😂😂😂😂
How much wool content does a fabric need to make it felt?
@@bridgetkuhns7338 The felting of wool has nothing to do with the percentage of wool. 100% wool usually naturally felts as it is water laundered. This is why it is best to dry clean most wool garments, as the felting process is actually a type of damage - shortening the life of the garment. Plus many wool garments are built with structuring that isn't meant to be water laundered. Even dry cleaning takes its toll.
I only water launder wools that are used for other purposes. Lining an ironing table or if I wanted a very casual wool jacket - and I would most likely dry clean it afterwards as I probably would not want to continue the felting process.
Lots of fibers can be felted with mechanical processes - including wool. Wool will usually hold up longer than man made acrylics, polyesters and such.
@@tinamcnalley2575
Tina thank you for your advice. I am making a felted jacket and I am trying to add a color the fabric made not entirely of wool. I do not have a dryer, but I did put the fabric in boiling water. The fabric was 80% wool. It did not felt.
I would use quilting printed cotton fabric for EVERYTHING if i could😍
Rojee sahu,
I DO use quilter's cotton for MOST of my sewing! I prefer it and have inherited much of it! I find the "bagginess" comfortable and modest. Elastic can be used to aid in fitting, where needed.
🤣🤣 Your not the only one! It is like the even middle ground and everything else stems of in difficulty from there!
I would only use quilters cotton if I could cut it on the bias so that it would have some drape. I find quilting cotton just doesn't have enough drape unless you do that.
@@nancypollard4531 What is the difference in Quilters cotton and quilting cotton?
Me too. Quilting cotton is great fabric.
Thank you! I never thought to look at the pattern picture to help decide fabric weight. I always defaulted to stiffer fabric for more structured clothes. Its great to know the "why" behind the decisions. it was mostly intuitive
Absolutely! And it will really show you the drape and fall required for the fabric to get the same look as well. I can't wait for you to look at your next pattern and use your fabric now!
@@Evelyn__Wood This was particularly helpful. It never occurred to me to look at the illustrations from this perspective.
I am a weaver and hand spinner. My focus on creating my own wardrobe has always been based on what the Georgians ( US 1700s ) did. I am also very focused on using the fibers from the period as well as the looms and spinning wheels from the actual period - not modern tools. I also raise sheep and have a friend who raises flax. Cotton I purchase for weaving purposes as I live in the N.East of Us and it doesn't grow here. There are weave structures that produce Calimancos, Dimity, Diaper, Twill, Satin, Harateen, Tweed, Linen and a host of cloth we no longer know the names of. The drapey fabrics you have covered here are not something I am terribly familiar with and I'm just starting to venture into that world only because I am reconstructing thrift haul finds and often they are such as you mentioned. Thank you for the excellent info!
WOW! Fascinating! That's so interesting oldschoolwoolandweavingcen4060. Good for you!
When I follow the recommended fabrics listed on the pattern, not a problem. When I shop my fabric stash, now that’s another thing altogether. Maybe you could do a video on how to determine what we have in storage? Or have you done one? Love your channel.
Dale I have linked a video about determining synthetic fabrics from natural fabrics in the description box already that might help you out 🙂
@@Evelyn__Wood
Thanks. I’ll check it out.
@@Camille-dq8qg That's such a good idea!
@@Camille-dq8qg There's also an app available called 'Sew Together' which I'm currently using to keep track of not only my fabric stash, but my patterns and haberdashery. I find it very helpful as I can take it with me when I go fabric/haby shopping so I don't end up repeating purchases. Its a monthly subscription job, but it's not that expensive - roughly the cost of a 14" zip a month and I've decided the paid version is worth the extra money for all the other things it enables me to keep track of and the fact that there are no limits to the number of items I can add to my various stashes.
@@somebodyelse138 Hello, where can I find this app. A quick scroll on google play doesn't come up when typed in the search box. Is it on ios?
We all need these skills, so we will be able to make our clothing ,when the shi+ hits the fan, and we all have to go underground! Thank you so much!
My best advice is to READ LABELS! If you’re new to sewing, read the labels on the end of the bolts and really test the fabric with your fingers to get the feel. You’ll also see how badly or not so badly it will wrinkle.
Definitely read labels!
ABSOLUTELY, read those labels. I almost bought some denim that required you to line dry, as in do not dry in the dryer. I read the label, and dodged a bullet on that one. I don't want to have to line dry my jeans.
This is exactly what I need!! I made poor fabric choices sometimes (even though I follow the recommended fabric from the pattern envelope), and kinda feel like if it's in a different fabric it'd look better, but didn't really notice or know how to improve. Thank you for this Evelyn! 🥰
Two weights I have used a lot, may not be used in Australia, bottom weight (garments on the bottom of your body like for pants or skirts that are generally heavier) and top weight (light to medium weights that are used for tops). An aside I have taken fiber, silk, wool, cotton and spun it into yarn. Then I have knitted it into a garment. I have also tried my hand at weaving.
HAHAHA the "bottom" and "top" weight makes sense to me now. I never knew what was meant by it. I just thought it was the material being top as in better and the bottom being flawed in the process. Now I know. Thanks
Yeah but sometimes those claiming to be bottom weight, especially if it's white, don't want to use that. Everyone will see all that God gave you.
I used to make scrubs for my mom using cotton quilting fabric. They need to be cheap and practical more than look good. However, if you beat it up real good first. That stiffness sometimes goes away and it'll drape very nicely indeed
Holy cow, you should start a sewing school! Oh, wait...
But seriously, I'm not even halfway through and have to say how great this video is already. You had me at "Fibre and fabric are not the same thing". Although I already know much of what you teach by now, you give me the tools to streamline my instructions for less experienced sewist friends. I know more about fabric and fibers than is needed in the home-sewist world simply because my old job required it, so I often hear myself offering more info than necessary. Thank you, Evelyn - if I am not nodding my head in agreeance, I am learning something new. You are a truly gifted teacher!
WOW!!!! This is a MUST-SEE for any sewist, any level!
I feel like we should keep in mind that shopping for fabric is like buying the garment we want to make. Dont think about the fabric as something separate- it will become the garment so it is more like clothes shopping.
Yeah that’s pretty much how I do it! I wanted a soft jersey knit dress so I go to the knit section and find then the fiber I want. Same with other types
25 years ago I could go into my local Joann fabrics and pick fabrics for apparel. I loved touching all the fabric! I spent most of my time walking around touching the fabrics. Now I can’t do that anymore. JoAnns fabrics is all quilters and cosplay and I miss that so much. The way a fabric feels is called the hand of the fabric and I really get that. I don’t like ordering fabric online because I can’t touch it, but mostly I don’t have a choice as there are no apparel fabric stores near me.
Just an observation, is anybody else find this to be true?
I've actually purchased samples from online stores before. Makes the whole process take longer but saves me money in the long run.
I agree, I mostly sew linen or silk but wanted a linen/silk mix for a kaftan I had see modelled that was in this fabric. It looked quite flowing & with the belt looked lovely. I managed to find some linen/silk online & ordered it. When it arrived I thought it looked a bit stiff but made it anyway. It was a disaster as I am slim & it was too structured even with the belt. An expensive mistake, If I had been able just to go & buy in a shop I would not have bought it. I am in the UK & there are hardly any fabric shops now & the ones that are still open have only a limited stock.
Karen, I completely agree with you about Joann. Not only are their apparel fabrics few and far between, they are organized by “collection”. So Silky prints include polyester, rayon and cotton. I’m forever undoing the end of the bolt to read the fabric content. I also cannot order online because I’m still a touchy-feely kind of shopper. I have been fortunate enough to find some linen rayon blends at my local Joann. But yeah, nothing like what it once was.
I think the real dearth of apparel fabrics is one of the biggest problems I contend with in sewing my own clothes tbh. I have a couple of favourite fabric stores (apparel only) which I love, but there comes a point where you've exhausted the stuff you love from them and are really searching for what you need next. I find I'm always having to settle for what I can get. This is the case even when I look online for international stores too. I often look back and wish I had bought whole rolls of fabric I really loved, even though that would mean having 2 or 3 garments in one fabric.
I’m exactly the same !! I love to feel the fabric so that I know how drapey it is. Hence why I’m always hesitant when it comes to buying fabric online because I don’t know how it feels. Just because it s labeled “cotton” , it doesn’t mean it’s the texture , softness what I after
This could not have come at a better time. Just put the waistband on a skirt and realized it looks ridiculous because the fabric is all wrong!! So frustrating. Here to learn 🤓
Well at least you've learnt what not to do next time right, and that's how we learn! 🙂
The best advice I ever got was from tortoise and the hare…slow and steady wins the race.
I totally agree! I also love that the speed dial on some machine is a tortoise and a hare!
I was mainly a quilter for the last few decades but came back to garment sewing in the last year. I’ve had to learn about the different fabrics as I never used the knits before. ( got my first serger) . I wanted to sew some ponte pants for winter here. I ordered a double brushed ponte online. I got it but it’s so surprisingly heavy! I think I’d be exhausted by the end of the day just from the weight of it on my body. I forget what is in my stash and what it’s made of. So I’ve bought some card stock and will attach a square of my boughten material to it with info- fabric content, amount purchased, care instructions or even where purchased, item code ( in case I need more) , or garment made out of it and what were the results etc. and store in a binder. Then I can use as a reference for example- this is what a polyester chiffon feels like etc. Lofty ambitions, I just need to remember to do it. 😂
This has so much information, I'm going to have to watch it more than once.
WONDERFUL!! I didn't know some of this until I was well into 20 years of sewing.... The Commercial patterns do NOT help you.
This an amazing series ooof episodes and classes. Thank You!
Many thanks for that video, it was great! I now often chose woven linnen or cotton because it has more structure and looks nice on my body (I am 66 years). Many greetings.
Heike- I, too, am a senior citizen sewist and l like you prefer cotton. I like the structured look I like the way it feels and good quality yields a relatively easy care garment.
As usual you did a wonderful job of teaching us something that others of us just take for granted that we know. Thank you for showing me that I need to teach this to my grands. I just haven't thought of this. Thanks again!
Oh wonderful! I hope you do pass on this sort of knowledge because it will not only serve them in sewing but also in buying clothes!
@@Evelyn__Wood i did not even think about them buying clothes. you are so right . i am teaching them about good fabric. i am a firm believer in buying the best you can afford. iwas taught early that when you get cheap fabric , it does not last as long or look as good. my grandmama told me not to waist my time making something that will only disappoint. thank you for reminding some of us and educating some of us and helping all of us.
Excellent video, I love rayon, not suitable for everything but my favorite, after your video today, maybe I can branch out a bit. thank you.
Rayon is cool for tropical climate. Often needs no ironing if caught warm from the dryer.
Just hate poly-blends, too hot, pilling 😜
Thank you for this! You’re like a fairy godmother for sewing.🧵 🪡 ❤️
Thank you for making that distinction! Patterns state fibers, not fabrics! Loved this episode! Thank you! I have a journal with scrap pieces labeling the fabric! Ooooo, on denim I did make a bustier with a jacket. The weight worked well with the strapless top....
Very nice! Yes a tighter fit a bodice the more structured and heavyweight of a fabric will work 😀
I enjoy watching the videos. Bob, you are missed but I'm glad you are still a part of the videos. Welcome, Mike!
This is such a great video for sewing beginners Evelyn! 😍 Lots of amazing advice!
Thanks for this. I have a hard time choosing the right fabric. I’ve been noticing how a lot of fabrics are marked as cotton but they are totally different from each other!
Thank you. I have been so frustrated trying to learn fabric names. This really cleared things up and gives me a direction.
Thankyou, I have learnt something today listening to your video. I have ordered online many times only to find the fabric unsuitable, now I know a bit more to help me choose. With less and less shops we end up online so unable to feel the fabric beforehand.
Thank you! This is very useful! Could you do more videos about fabrics? It's very difficult to navigate this subject for me, even as I am sewing for 3 years already
Hello Kate, how are you doing?
You really explained this well! I miss being able to see and feel the fabrics in stores.
Just have a few more days until I can sign up for vintage sewing school. My mom didn't sew and I quilt and have made sweatshirts and sweatpants for my kids when they were younger. Now I am retired, I want to sew for my new grandbaby and want to learn everything I can to make better choices and have them turn out like I invasion them to be due to skills not luck and a prayer.
I am one of those that just buy cotton, make a shirt, then wonder why it didn't turn out right. Now I know. I am using the wrong material. LOL. I watched a video on linen last night. She talked about the different weights. She also has one on silk I'll watch tonight. Never to old to learn. Thank you Evelyn for such great teaching nd advice some of us never got at home. Now off to check out your school..
Love how you styled your hair! This video is a great reminder of the basics of draping and pattern. Thank you!
I love your videos! You are the best sewing teacher, you cover everything! Thank you so much for this very informative video
Hello Karen, how are you doing?
Another great tutorial for fabrics choices. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise.
I love this channel, I learn something new with every video I watch!
Wow! This was a university seminar!!!
Helpful video. I love big baggy cottons that don't stick to my body. Hate hate hate anything synthetic. But then I'm a gardener, not a fashion maven. Different strokes and potato sacks for the win in my case!
Your information Evelyn is always very helpful in everything you show us, even though I have been dressmaking for years and years on and off, find I"m still learning something different each and every time. 😊✂️🧵💕
Thank you for watching I'm glad I can still share something new for you! 😀
This was great! Like most I’ve just gone by feel. One thing, for the last few years I’ve gone for things I don’t have to iron. But this has restricted so many beautiful fabrics. Since I’ve been “stashing”, I’ve been encouraged back to cottons and linens, and am leaning again towards rayon, which I’ve not used much. A whole new world and time to emerge from leggings and tunics!
I'm nervous about the project I want to undertake mostly because of fabric options. I'm looking to make Howl's tunic from the last half of Howl's Moving Castle (gorgeous film if you haven't seen it!). It's plain, and tunics are apparently pretty easy, I just don't sew. 😅 While I want it to drape, I still want it to have some structure as opposed to just falling loosely, so I'm thinking about a cotton blend? I'll keep these tips in mind while I look, thanks for the awesome videos!!
This is such a great, plain language rundown of how to approach fabric (which is not fiber!). Thank you. Also I can't remember if I ever mentioned it before but I love how the intros to your videos are things like "Sewing friends." It's nice how they are gender inclusive of everyone.
What an amazing video, thank you Evelyn! You are great teacher! I have made some really bad fabrice choices... and there is nothing more frustrating than making a garment that is pretty much perfect BUT you cant wear it because the fabric is not good... you cant fix it in any way... just have to start over with different fabric. I will always remember to choose drapier fabrics for oversized garments!
Thank you. I have used instinct before for fabric choice but it's good to understand all these factors.
Love the dress behind you! Your channel makes me feel happy.
Thank you for the info about the grams/sq. meter. I hesitate to buy online without being able to actually handle a fabric and knowing this will help immensely.
Something I made for my students in Vintage Sewing School might help you also, create yourself a chart and list the weights of fabric with some common types of fabric so you can start to learn what that weight might feel like. This will really help when shopping online 🙂
@@Evelyn__Wood I was thinking that very thing. I have quite a stash AND a postal scale so I will do some weighing of my own also. I looked to see if the fabric weight was printed on the bolt but it doesn't seem to be.
Hello, what a nice outfit you have today. I am always impressed by your blouses, so elegant. I wish to learn how to sew it.
Love this video!
As an American, I don't know what "modal" fabric is, so I looked it up:
"Modal fabric is a semi-synthetic fabric made from beech tree pulp that is used primarily for clothing, such as underwear and pajamas, and household items, like bed sheets and towels. Modal is a form of rayon, another plant-based textile, though it is slightly more durable and flexible than the standard version. Modal is often blended with other fibers like cotton and spandex for added strength. Modal is considered a luxurious textile thanks to both its soft feel and high cost, as it is more expensive than either cotton or viscose."
source: www.masterclass.com/articles/fabric-guide-what-is-modal-fabric#what-is-modal-fabric
Thanks, I've been wondering about modal, too. I try to keep to fabrics made from natural fibres. Now I know I can add modal to the list.
I took sewing in 8th grade Home Ec class. I really wasn’t interested & was terrible at it. The teacher used me as an example of what not to do. When I got my first job I bought the first free arm sewing machine from Sears & taught myself to sew. I have made my own clothes and even quilts. I don’t like being told I can’t do something & will prove you wrong. Lol
Great class. I’ve been sewing for years and I find your classes some of the best.
Another great video. Btw: you are looking so beautiful and polished; I love those nails. 👏
You are just amazing! Every time I have some doubts, i search here and I find answer!
One point worth making is that of nap like corduroy. Stretch fabrics that run. The fabric needs to be cut in such a way that the run will not affect the finished garment. I hope that makes sense to you. You are the person to explain this point I believe. Thank you so much for your videos
This woman is a literal genius and life-saver
Great information. Thank you so much 😊
I sewed my first garnment (Nina Lee Kew Dress) out of a viscose cotton 50/50 blend and it was dreamy, so easy to cut and sew and still drapey and looked so nice as a dress and it forgave small fit issues because of its drape. So this might be a good choice for a beginner :)
also, better fabric choices totally come with experience! :)
Hi! I like learning about what I did not know I did not know, even though I have been sewing for a long time. Thank you and keep doing what you are doing. The more I learn the more I want to know! Take care and be well! Kelly
YES, I learn so much from Evelyn!
Evelyn, thank you sincerely. Brilliant breakdown, easy to understand and extremely helpful.
Wooooooow
I had no idea
Thank you so much! Best videos about sewing
Excellent lesson on fabric.
Evelyn….. You are an inspiration to me and thousands of others I’m sure. I love your sincere enthusiasm that makes me want to watch your every videos. Please keep making these xx
When you talked about using a quilting cotton for a blouse I definetely felt called out xD I recently bought a couple of meters of lightweight cotton from ikea that should be used to make courtains but I was hoping to get at least a pair of shorts or a coord set for the summer out of it, this guide is totally what I needed :)
Oh, I use quilting cotton for apparel all the time. I once bought upholstery fabric to make a nice heavy weight top, used some piping, looked smashing. I bought a fitted sheet at a 2nd hand store, made a blouse, get so many compliments, no one knows it's a sheet, tee hee. Cost me less than a dollar. Made out like a bandit.
This is such an important topic and your video is extremely informative! Thanks a lot for helping us all! :)
Thank you! This was incredibly helpful. I knew that some of the stretch fabrics only stretched certain ways, but I didn't know about the weight, stiffness, etc based on thread count and such. I wish it was easier to read labels on fabric in stores. I wonder if they have that info on them anywhere. I need reading glasses to see the labels. LOL.
Hi Evelyn! All I can say is I think you are amazing....obviously a professional expert but just so positive, joyous and inspirational. You have rekindled my love of sewing - thank you and may your needles always stay sharp :) x
Phenomenal and really informative as always! Im a nerd by nature so deep dive on various aspects. I went down a deep dive on vintage hand needles vs modern needles and was shocked by the difference (and excited to find affordable japanese needles - not tulip - that have the same smoothness as vintage needles). As well as machine needles and what it actually means 😂. I do adore a viscose/rayon. Always so soft
Your videos are always so helpful. I think you are truly one of the best sewing channels on YT!
Excellent again Evelyn, thank you.....!
You're a sewing life-saver! Thank you so much
Thank you! I tried to whip up a skirt for Halloween with some novelty Halloween fabric and it turned out great but I ended up with a pencil skirt instead of a half circle skirt somehow bc of the fabric! Def going to pay more attention in the future! Haha
I am so excited that you are explaining this, I was just wondering about this last night!
Love the way you teach us so many elements of fabric and sewing!,,
Thank you so much for sharing this information. You do it so I don't feel like nonce for not already knowing it anyway - and it's so important!
This explains every bad fit I’ve ever had. Lol. So informational. Thanks!
This is the most excellent and informative video I have seen! Thank you for the clarification between fiber and fabric! This is life-changing!
Evelyn, this is very helpful to me.
This video is just PERFECT!!!
I was progressing on my choice of fabrics but now, in 18mn...I know soooo much more!
Merci !! 😊🙏
Thank you for the much needed video!
Great video, Evelyn! Thanks for clarifying so many points and make them understandable. I always follow the pattern fabric recommendations, and as I started to sew during the pandemic, it's the best option as I can't touch the fabric beforehand. However, now restrictions are ending, and I will buy it after touching it, and this video highlighted some relevant points I'll consider. Thanks! :)
Very exciting and interesting video my dear . We really need video like this about fabric and fiber . Thank you so much for sharing my friend 👍👍👍👍👍👍👌👌👌
I've recommended your videos on face book , I'm in a sewing for beginners group and you have answered a lot of the questions that show up there.
I like that you decided to wear a garment that itself serves as a demonstration of how different fabrics behave.
(Because you mentioned rayon fabric) I watched an advert for rayon from the 1950’s where this woman “time traveled” from the 30’s to the 50’s because she was sad there wasn’t better fabrics. She goes to a department store and everything she loves is rayon! Lol it was actually fun to watch.
Thank you for the fantastic content. I recently got back into sewing and found your videos that I have been devouring. I just finished the 7-day trial and now I'm ready to join your monthly subscription to continue to learn. Thank you for all your informative videos.
I love that red, ivory and yellow dress in the background.
Thank-you for this video, Evelyn. Very helpful. It helps explain why some of the garments I've sewn in the past were not as successful as others.
Hello Jill, how are you doing?
wow I learnt a lot with this video, thanks so much
Thanks a lot, I am teaching Fashion Design in south of Spain. And have English speaking kids and adults. And my mother tongue isn't. So you help me a lot, I know theory but can't explain in English 😂
Thank you Evelyn. Always great videos. xxx
Thx for this grt info! Like a university course!!!
This is but a fraction of the fabric information that will serve you very well in your sewing! For the full university course come see me at vintage sewing school 😀
just the video i needed! thank you as always ❤️
Dear Evelyn, Thank you for that video ! Great and veeery interesting ! I would be grateful if one day you make a video to help us about almost the same topic but from another point of vue : "I bought these amazing fabrics, but I never did anything because I don't know what to do with them / how to use them !". But maybe it is a stupid question.
Very informative! Thanks!