A lot of us who sew get asked to make garments for others. I have learned to say no. I can fit myself but learned through experience how tough it can be to fit others. I violated the muslin rule making a dress from a new pattern with a very expensive Liberty fabric. I hated the result and threw it in a pile 2 years ago. But this week I was able to salvage it by putting my increased experience to work in altering the dress. I was so happy with the result!
I will only sew for my children and grandchildren. I had twice before sewn for others, when my own children were young. One was a wedding dress (not a full-length one with a train, but it was more of an evening dress) and one was a dress for an obese 12 year old whose Mom brought the pattern and it was not sized for her daughter....Both those experiences were not positive. After that, I flat-out refused to sew, or even help sew, for others. It's amazing how many people think you should be thrilled to sew for them.
For me actual muslin fabric can be a bit pricey, so I use sheets that I buy at Goodwill. I do check the tags on the sheets to check what composition the fabric is that the sheets are made from.
I prefer old sheets to cheap muslin from the fabric store. I used cheap unbleached cotton for a muslin one time, but the fabric had a lot of stretch because of its loose weave. I prewashed the fabric before cutting, but the muslin turned out to be too small because it stretched on the body. I remade the muslin with old sheet fabric, which has a higher thread count and was more stable. I save old top sheets for this kind of use when the fitted sheet has worn out.
I work at a library and I just want to say thank you for talking up interlibrary loans! It's such a great way for patrons to get books they want when their system doesn't have it. ALSO, it's ok to get books from other branches in your own system! I don't know how many times people have turned down putting items on hold. But if you don't want to drive all over just put it on hold and wait for it to come to your local branch and you'll be notified when it arrives. Libraries are a great resource for sewists. Definitely take advantage of these great comments resources if you can. 😊
Yes!!! Man, I could go on and on about how much I appreciate the libraries! Such an amazing free resource. I didn't take full advantage of them until I started sewing. I just decided to check for a couple of sewing books and was blown away by how much they had to offer (feels silly to say it now because it is so obvious to me now how awesome they are haha). You are doing great work! :)
I started using my interlibrary loans services in recent years and it is so great! Also, our library system tallys the purchase price of each item so you know how much money you saved by using your local library. I'm in the thousands these past couple of years.
I’ve been a huge supporter of the public library since the bookmobile started coming to our house when I was 5. All we needed at the time was to get the names of 5 families that would come. Mom would always have goodies to eat so the librarians changed their schedules so they could have their breaks at our hour. Way after I was married, the bookmobile was still coming every week. Now I love Libby.
100%. I’d also like to add during the education stage, learn about your body type and height, and what silhouettes will work best. A very popular pattern that’s trending may look fabulous on a tall rectangular frame, but absolutely swamp a petite curvy pear or hourglass frame - and the opposite is also true. We all need different things to look fabulous.
great advice ❤ also decide on the color palette that flatters. Research your body type. When you buy fabric in flattering colors and patterns that accentuate your body type, big $ saving tips. ❤
Nicole Rudolph does a really good deep dive into many of the fabrics you'll run into for each of the main natural fibers (Cotton 101, Silk 101, Wool 101, Linen 101). She personally does historical sewing, but her videos are really helpful for understanding the properties of different kinds of fabrics, despite them all coming from the same fiber source. (Edited for clarity.)
Sound advice, Casey. I just did a linen shirt dress. Required three muslins of the bodice to get all the darts (bust, waist, back) correct as well as the petite adjustments. I took my time and I’m so proud of the end result. I learned so much! Thanks for raising the bar here on you tube.
@@thaloblue Just relating my own experiences , not suggesting anyone else needs to do that. And no, I didn’t make 4 shirt dresses. I made 3 muslins of the bodice to check for proper fit. These are basted, not sewn, and do not include button holes or collar. Just the basics. You, of course, do what works for you.
If you go to a sewing expo or conference, almost every pattern vendor will do a fit session with you. Some will tell you how to fit their own patterns to you and others will give you general advice for any pattern company. I've had sessions with a few different pattern companies or designers and walked away with pages of useful notes and measurements. Sew Expo in Puyallup WA is the big one, but there are others. Added bonus is that you can spend the day with other people who share your passion for sewing.
I would love to go to one of those. Haven't heard of any in my area, but they are probably more popular in the US. (I live in Canada). But I am going to try to find one, now that I've seen your comment
@@johannaholmgren8088 where are you in Canada? There is usually a big show like this in Toronto. I live in the US near Buffalo, which is close to Canada. I've been to the Toronto show more than I've been to US shows. But obviously, during the pandemic, we couldn't go. It's worth a trip.
Great information as always. I think you are right about having an experienced seamstress, etc. give you feedback on starting points for patterns. I think the last time I had any help with that I was learning how to sew in junior high. I’m 71 now.😂I have learned more about fitting, pattern selection and fabrics in the last few years than I did in the 40 years before that. RUclips channels like yours have taught me so much! It has definitely made me fall in love with sewing again!
"Always measure the pattern" is good advice, seldom heard! Nothing on the pattern's size chart will tell you how much ease is allowed. Comparing the pattern measurements to a garment that fits well also helps.
And it is so wonderful to have a well fitted garment on. I have been obsessed with haute couture sewing half my life to learn how to make a garment that is "a second skin". It doesn't matter your body size when a garment fits properly you will always look good.
your words about "shame" and "pattern doesn't fit me right out of the package" totally CLICKED since my mother, who made a lot of my clothing, always complained how she couldn't get things to fit me right (while for my sisters they would fit just fine). I was the cause of her angst and she didn't enjoy sewing for me. I felt so much SHAME. For DECADES. And now it just suddenly CLICKED....there is nothing wrong with ME. I don't know why it took me so long to realize this, but I am thankful beyond words for this little video you've made. Thank you, Thank you, THANK YOU.
I’m a relatively new sewist. I’ve taken a few sewing lessons and watched lots of videos on how to measure myself and on fitting. This is the first time that anyone has said that I can put my waist where mine actually is on a pattern! (I’m short-waisted). I thought (erroneously, I’m so happy to say) that the waist had to go where the pattern designer put it. Every other measurement you mentioned in addition to the usual bust and hip measurement was new to me, and I’d never heard of measuring the pattern itself either. That’s really valuable information for me. I can follow pattern instructions, but like many people, fitting is my bugbear, so this video has been a revelation - thank you so much! I’m now a subscriber and have started watching your other videos.
I'm so glad it was helpful info! The best thing about sewing is that we can make it custom to fit our style and lifestyle! Thanks so much for watching and subscribing! :)
I know it's been awhile, but remember to use the edge of your tape measure so it stands up and not flat to paper when measuring curves for better accuracy
I am a self-taught seamstress and can do most tailoring jobs. For most fashion alterations I just turn inside out and pin. Mostly works, but deconstructing garments and remaking is the only true tailored way. I love working with vintage patterns. I ALWAYS remake hems on cheap fashion goods. Makes them look much more expensive. Also change the buttons! Magic.
I have found that to just turn a garment inside out and pin it is not recommended. The body can be shaped different on each side. I am. I must pin the alterations on me from the right side, then measure where the pins are and turn the garment inside out and re-pin. If I didn't, the larger or smaller side of the garment would will not fit correctly.
Thank you! I have this burning desire to start sewing. I have never! I know nothing! The closest I get to sewing is watching and enjoying The Great British sewing bee but I believe it's never too late. I love your channel, it motivates me a lot. Love from South Africa. xx
Dear Renate, I am right there with you with my desire to sew, sew, sew; I have forgotten what little I knew about sewing with a machine back in the 1970s. And just like that: whamo! My neighbor gave me a beautiful sewing machine! I am going to take lessons at Joanne's. It is never too late to learn anything. In fact, I just earned my third MA degree! Age is truly just a number.
I’m glad you said sewing your own clothes brings up feelings about your body. I’ve never sewn an article of clothing because I’m feeling insecure about my measurements right now. I think it’s the only thing holding me back at the moment. I hate the feeling of clothes not fitting me and so I have been procrastinating about making my own clothes and facing my measurements. But the beauty in all this is once I overcome the shock of my measurements, my clothes will fit perfectly.
I have used the interlibrary state programs for years here in West Tennessee. I also utilize Libby, an online library that you can use your local library card. You can get in touch with with your local librarian to get your library card number.
@@PatternScout I took my kids before they could read and now they read everything they can get their hands on and married people who love to read as well. My oldest sister (13 years older) use to take me all the time no matter where she lived. All of my siblings are huge book lovers of every genre you can think of as well as my kids.
As a sewist who used to make her own clothes out of necessity when young (50+ years ago) and am just restarting, I just wanted to say how much I appreciate your attitude, your forthrightness, and of course, the benefit of your experience. I have only watched a few videos as yet, but already know that I'll watch a lot more and buy some patterns from you although a very different shape and height. Thank you from Wales/ Cymru.
You explain measurements so well. I usually buy enough fabric now that I can cut another pattern or part of the pattern instead of doing a muslin for more advanced pattern ideas. I have done many muslins especially for pants. The only problem with pants and using a different fabric, the stretch or lack of stretch can really affect the fit and how the pants sew up and wear. So often I use my prior muslin and test to make I can fit into them. I also have a block pattern for different bodice fabrics and styles. I now make sure all those measurements you talk about are on all of them. Your wardrobe is perfect for you and your advice on how to get there is spot on. This is one of the best videos to explain the work that goes into sewing for oneself. And your advice about allowing yourself to make mistakes and garments that don't work, is so valuable. I use all those information resources you talk about. I have been able to find solutions for all my fit and design questions. Your videos are right at the top. Thanks for this one and all you have done prior to this one. I really learned fit and design, to make my own patterns, from books I got at the University here in my area back in the 80's. What a game changer. And making bra patterns for women, I learned how much easier it is to have someone else do the fitting adjustments. It is so hard to do them on oneself. The local sewing guild chapter has a fitting group here that meets occasionally. Great insight and information. I wish I knew all this when I was your age. I am happy that women can get this solid advice and understanding on how to make garments they can actually wear and enjoy and truly build a great wardrobe.
Thanks so much Jeannette! I'm all for building a great wardrobe and learning as much as I can (and I have so much more satisfaction in my wardrobe now, too). Thanks for sharing and the kind words!
What sound advice delivered beautifully. This video is a keeper for me, going straight to my saved list for sewing. No complicated, head scratching tips but lots of useful information. Thanks Casey.
I dedicated this summer to getting a well fitting shorts pattern. And I did it! I learned a lot from J Stern Designs U-tube channel. I made many muslins. Luckily I was gifted? some very ugly quilting cottons. Now it’s super quick to whip up some. I then went on with my knowledge of crotch curve and how to reduce baggies under the butt and perfected a knit pants pattern. Thanks to channels like yours, fitting is easier to accomplish and sewing is a lot more fun!
Nice to know it's not just me that sometimes gets stuck with fitting problems and how effective taking a break is. So often the answer comes to me when I'm half awake in the early morning and I can kind of see the garment in 3D in my mind's eye.
Casey, you’re one of the best RUclips creators I’ve ever watched. Your voice is so easy to listen to, your attitude and smiley demeanour are infectious. I often find myself giggling along with you when you are so sweet and self deprecating. Your technical skills are excellent which makes watching so pleasant. I’ve been learning so much from you and I’m enjoying binge watching your videos. 🥰
Thank you so much for sharing advice on garment fitting. I'm 5'2" with an hourglass figure. Nearly all patterns I use need adjusting in some way or another. When I'm more confident my aim is to atempt making a pair of jeans that actually fit..... Thanks again, love the content of your platform. 🙂
This video was such needed for me while I’m trying to fit a jacket pattern. I’m in my second mock-up on my muslin and I feel like I’m the only one who can’t get it right. This video helped me see that it happens to others too and that I shouldn’t give up and possibly take a break!
Definitely happens to me too! Breaks help a lot--it's hard to step away sometimes, but it really does help relieve the stress and clear your mind a little :) Glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks so much for watching and best of luck with your jacket!
Realizing that watching channels with similar body types really helps.... I've been watching people with many less curves or more around the midsection. I'm a short torso, hourglass, even 150 pounds overweight, I still have curves in places a lot of places don't. I've been watching you for 2 days, and have seen you make the alterations I would probably need to make to any other pattern.
Every day is a new learning experience. I have learned so much by just trying to make garments and by studying how other garments are made. It can be very difficult and frustrating at times. Sometimes I have to work on something else for a while and come back to the project later. Just make sure that you don’t pack it away that you will never find it again. 😊
Thank you for the excellent information and encouragement. I'm back to sewing and getting ready to make a wool jacket with a lining. I will definitely need to focus on fit and I will be using your advice.
Love your peptalks, presentation esp concerning pragmatic preparations: honest no frills tape measure tell-alls, and breaking before broke, taking the pause that refreshes. My worst character flaws
I always love your videos and sew alongs. And I cannot tell you how helpful it is to be able to get that FBA already done. The only thing I have ever had to adjust on your patterns is the length. I always have to do a FBA on every single pattern I get. Your patterns are so well drafted and they are perfect for my body type. And they're really pretty designs too. You mentioned Alexandra Morgan and Aneka from Made to Sew.. I have learned sooo much from them as well. Another one is "Thoughtful Creativity" She does a lot of simple pattern drafting and has a lot of material that you can print out for reference. Thanks Casey, I am so grateful for this channel.
Many thanks, Cathleen! Glad to know the patterns work well for you! I have heard of Thoughtful Creativity, great videos! I've learned a ton from Alexandra and Aneka...they were my go-tos when I was starting out!
For anyone who lives in the Northern Virginia or DC area, Stitch Sew Shop in Old Town Alexandria is an excellent resource for fitting help. You can get expert one-on-one fitting assistance (as well as help with your project) for an hourly price. Google for their web address. I have also taken several classes with them, the latest being an outstanding shirt making/fitting class.
You are the most detailed teacher when it comes to information. And right on everything. I get caught up in sewing and sew for hours before I take a break; wearing myself out to finish or fix a problem. But yes, you are right! When I have gotten away from the sewing machine for awhile and come back, sometimes I see the answer to what I needed. And you mentioned about buying the correct pattern for the matching material. That is highly important! I chose a slacks pattern I just loved. I made the slacks out of a nice cotton material and proudly wore them shopping. When I went to get into my SUV, I couldn't lift my leg up high enough to get in. When I did get home, I looked at the pattern, and was unaware that it said for stretch material only. Oh dear! The lessons to be learned.
First time on your channel, and I love your presentation style and content. Trying to make more garments for my senior body and lifestyle, but having so much trouble figuring out which garments would look good on me and making the inevitable adjustments. Will definitely make muslins and also check out the resources you recommend. Thanks!
I love the idea of consulting a professional tailor or seamstress to get advice or tips for fitting! I would happily pay someone for their time and advice. I would trust their expertise in helping me get accurate measurments and the right adjustments for a great fit! My husband is usually the one I get to help me with measurements for myself, but he's used to working with things like stone and wood - very different from fabric and flesh! 😂
Yes definitely different than fabric and flesh! 😂 Occasionally, I'll try to enlist my husband for measurement help, but end up finding it easier to twist myself into a pretzel to do it myself haha. Would be great to have a pro help with that!
Thank you great video. TAKE A BREAK best advice. I have a little sewing area in my bedroom and a 4x4 sheet of masonite on my bed where I put my cutting mat. I can go in and do a bit of sewing whenever I feel up for it and quit without a lot of cleanup. I quit when I get stuck and come back when I have the right head space. I am just getting back into sewing after 30 years, so I never try to sew with a deadline, when the garment is done its done, no pressure. Love your work.
Very sound advice! So many skip the muslin and the pressing when making a new pattern. Great video. I love watching your videos! Thanks for all your videos!
Excellent video and you raised all the right points, I think. Great tips especially about ease and taking time out 😘 I see other sewers on various social media groups with numerous alterations attempted..... 😬😢 So easy to slip down the rabbit hole. 🤷🏻♀️💖
What a great video Casey, really honest and informative. I find you always give me confidence and reassure to try out the suggestions you put forward. Look forward to your next video as always 🤗🤗
Another very useful video to assist in sewing clothes. While I do not have an abnormal body type to fit, I have embarked on patternmaking after discovering how much more costly it is to purchase ready-made patterns. And the fitting issues can crop up just as you mentioned === crotch curves and armscyes. Have found I very much find this to be both a challenging and rewarding pursuit and am overall pleased with the initial results of pattern to garment. Thank you for your information and continued success with your great channel!
Thank you, Dianne! I feel the same way about patternmaking...these days I will mostly draft what I want (or hack a pattern I already have into what I want)!
Thank you! I worked my first pattern after conquering my fear of my sewing machine a few weeks back. After a few hours of learning and frustration, the bottoms were too small. After a break, I added some extra fabric to that area and carried on. I learned A LOT, and this video is inspiring to use that as my muslin and to try again. Thank you for sharing your tips and your time!
Always a learning process! Yes, keep trying. I've made a lot of bad pants, but now I make mostly good pants! haha...lots and lots of practice! Thanks so much for watching!
Great video! I always learn something new when I watch your videos. I just recently started measuring my patterns and was surprised to find differences in what the envelope said and what the pattern measured out to... I just always thought if something came out wrong it was my mistake. I will definitely check out my local library for resources too! Thanks😊
Hello Ms. Scout. This is my first time looking for cutting, sewing, fitting etc. I am so glad that I found your youtube channel. Thank You for your guideness to all of us!!!!
I have learned so much watching your channel- so glad I found you. I am self taught but have sewn for home- pillows, drapes, bed skirts etc. clothing intimidates me but your channel has inspired me to try! Thank you!
Oh my goodness. You have a lovely figure! I'm in my 70s now and wish I'd appreciated my young body when I was young. Now I'm trying to be thankful for my body as it is (not nearly as "good" as it was when I was young!) considering how much better it is now than it will be when I'll be in my 90s, LOL! If you haven't already done a video on pressing and ironing, it is needed. There aren't very many videos on that topic and I see eager, inexperienced sewists all over the internet skipping those vital steps. I still hear the voice (from my junior high home economics teacher) in my head, "PRESS IT IN THE MANNER IN WHICH IT WAS SEWN." Nowadays, I think they say, "Press it flat to set the stitches and relax the fabric so it can be shaped." "Yes," to pressing and ironing! I just subscribed. Your videos are very well done: informative and entertaining. Thank you.
I just found your channel today and I was captivated by your presentation. Your explanations are easy to understand and your content is so applicable. Thank you! I have made garments for years and I want to make some of my own clothes besides quilting, making tote bags, and household items.
Excellent advice. Fitting is such a challenge in the journey. First I focused on my technical sewing skills and construction, now it’s all about the fit. I find picking the right fabric is half the battle. I have made a garment and it was perfect (well, I’ve never made a thing that didn’t have at least one mistake in it I had to compensate for) I loved it. Made another one the same way and big fail because I used a different type of fabric. Calling in the Calvary is a smart idea, Saremy Duffy over at Sew Sew Live offers a virtual service. I think Jen Stern and Kim of Dorothy’s Daughter will as well.
yes! So true! Fabric choice is very important and can completely change the look and fit of a garment. I have also found a few fabrics that I like for most projects, that I turn to over and over (like linen!) because they are predictable and easy to work with.
Inter library loan, or ILL, is a nationwide system of loaning books. I have gotten books from The Library of Congress (can only be used inside the borrowing library), and once the only library that owned my requested book was the hometown library of the author. It’s a wonderful perk.
Absolutely loving your content, Casey! It's always fun to see your personality coming through, too. Sewing frustration and sharp objects are a no-no! 😂😂
Just discovered this... you are so encouraging, informative and kind. My goal has been to develop 4 or 5 tried and true patterns and get lots of use from them. But this past year, I have started to muslin too much and overfit, so I need to step back and just repeat the 2 or 3 I've mastered, over and over. I love sewing for my daughter, she loves flowy things and knits which require less precision. Should take a page from her book, too. Thanks so much!
This is very important information for beginner sewers. Different pattern companies have different concepts of sizes. It really sucks to make a whole garment only to find out it’s too small.
You just spoke about a current fit issue I'm having with trousers - the descending waistband when seated! Especially aggravating when I'd already added height to the centre back seam, so I'll try adding some length to the crotch as well!
Taylor from Blueprints for Sewing has given fitting classes. I took one and it was really useful. I learned a trick for two small extra darts (in addition to the normal side dart) I would have never thought to try for a good bust fit (large bust) and it transformed how my shirt looked on me. Look for classes at a local sew shop.
I’m going to use several of your suggestions. I have been looking for a pants pattern…love your idea to use an item I have to make a pattern! I have RTW pants that are wearing out and were too short from the beginning but otherwise fit well… I’m 5’9”. Thanks!
Awesome tips and resources, thanks! Especially about taking breaks! I think it was from poet Leena Norms in the video where she made her own dress for the first time where I heard that, and she said she'd learned the hard way that people who love sewing usually don't do it for more than 3 hours a day, and if you don't love it or are new to it, you might want to stick to only two hours or less per day to start. After watching some of your vids, I think I might want to try making a tee shirt. The last garment I made was over 20 years ago in high school home ec, where my sweatshirt grade was marked down because the finish on the collar was too thin.
That is such a good way to look at it. I usually hit my wall around 3 hours...I enjoy it so much more when I take my time and take breaks! Thanks so much for sharing that!
A fabric store in my area offers sewing classes and classes to get help with your own sewing project and even knitting problems. It’s called „consultation hour“.
Thank you so much Casey! This was very helpful and a great overview! I’ve only used patterns to make costumes for my kids and I’d like to try some items for me … you have given me an excellent start! 😊
When you get a multisize pattern, do you cut the actual tissue to your size, or do you trace that size onto your muslin pieces? That way, you can use the pattern again for larger sizes? I am interested to know too, if sewers take apart the muslin and use those pieces as the pattern since you know the fit is correct? As in you finish the muslin but keep it and take it apart to cut new finished fabric for a new item you are making.
I usually cut the pattern (sometimes trace, especially for tissue patterns that I can't reprint). I have used muslins as pattern pieces before too. But I usually just make the adjustments to the paper pattern, and re-use the muslins for other muslins if I can.
This is great. My technical sewing skills are pretty good, but I am really challenged by fitting. My apex seems to be a key measurement as I age. The girls are heading south. 🙃 You look absolutely fabulous!
I've only just discovered your channel, and I am so pleased I have! All your advice resonates with me. I am coming to the realisation that this wonderful hobby is potentially a lifelong learning curve - there's always more to try and to master - and for me that's tremendously exciting! We all probably just want things to turn out perfectly the first time, but usually they don't, and that's where the learning happens. And yes, tears of frustration and anger are always a cue to go and do something else! It's amazing how often solutions come to mind while we're asleep 😯 Thanks for sharing all your knowledge and advice, Casey!
Thank you so much, I am so glad this resonated with you! Definitely a lifelong learning curve. And I am totally right there with you on finding that very exciting and interesting. That's what keeps me coming back for more!
That vintage pattern sounds amazing! I love finds like that--I have a few in my stash I still want to get to (every winter I promise myself i'll make one of the vintage blazers in my pattern stash--maybe THIS winter haha). And I also want to get more sewing and patternmaking books in my personal library!
Very informative, great tips. But the best thing was learning that even you get frustrated and upset. Now I realize it is not just me and I should do what you recommend, step away from the sharp implements lol and take a break :)
This was so helpful and full of great resources and advice. As important is the point you make a few times about how normal it is to not get a perfect fit out of the packet on the first try. I made a wearable toil and forgot it’s purpose and then got sad because the armcye is too big. Will keep on working and learning 😀.
So glad it was helpful! I have to remind myself constantly that good fit is a process! It's so easy to get discouraged, but getting a great fit is so rewarding! :)
I remember my mom saying to me how this one lady at church made such cute dresses for her two little girls, but how they’d look so much better if she would’ve pressed them. It really does make all the difference!
Grrrl, you so good! Thanks for sharing all the wisdom. I need to measure more often 🙄. FYI, I just bought the Byrdie last night, as part of my mission to find the perfect shirt🤞🏻. Also, I just used the cozi jacket pattern to make my MIL a bathrobe. So good. I tagged you on ig. Love all you do. Keep it coming! x Ps how’s that jeans pattern coming along 😜
Yay! Hope you love the Byrdie, thanks for trying it out! And that robe looks so COZI ;) such a good idea to make it a robe! Ummm...the jeans pattern! That is one of those that is pretty much ready to go into drafting/grading and I keep putting it off haha. I need to do it!! Maybe I'll finally feel inspired to work on jeans again when fall weather starts rolling in!
I want to get back into sewing some of my garments….something I haven’t done in a long while. So I will subscribe to your channel and learn again…it is easy to sew for a child but no so easy for oneself.
Any recommendations for petites sewing patterns? I'm 5' and don't even have a reliable starting point for patterns. I'm trying to learn to draft my own but the process is slow going and having a pattern to start with would be a great way to learn more about garment construction.
I took private lessons to make a tailored jacket. I'm hard to fit with narrow sloping shoulders and big hips so any jacket I buy just splays open below the waist. The class was four lessons and it was all going well until the third lesson when I wore a different bra so the jacket fit differently. The teacher got so caught up on adjusting the bust again, when it fit beautifully in the other bra, and I could not distract her from that. We were supposed to do the pockets that day (nervous about welts) but spent the whole time on the bust and I was so frustrated I never went back for the fourth lesson and the jacket has been hanging in my closet half completed for years now. Sad end of an experience I was really excited about.
Hello Casey, congratulations for 96.900 subscribers. I really like your videos and am momentarily binge watching from your oldest to the newest again. May I ask a question? I've visited a course for a bloper and have learned to make a pattern. Then the seamstress made the fitting adjustments for my body and now everything fits really good. But... How and where can I increase the pattern for a loser fitting button down shirt? I don't want to change the fit of the neck, shoulders and armholes? In the back I will insert a pleat but what about the front? Thank you so much for answering. Love from Germany
When I started sewing 8 years ago, I was 130lbs, now I vary between 99-106. It was a damn good thing I traced all my patterns or I would have to spend a lot of money buying new ones, and maybe the same ones I couldn’t buy anymore. I buy cheap sheets to use for muslins. Yes, people say measure your waist at the smallest part like you said, but I have always placed the top of my pants wherever I want. Using the sit on a flat surface and measure from the seat to the waist is not an accurate measurement for me. What I do is take the full crotch measurement from front to back, then divide it by 2, then take from the front and add that to the back, because the back is bigger. This generally works for me, but I still find that I need at least another inch extra on the back. Funny though, because people say I don’t have an ass.
My problem as a beginner is that I don’t understand fabrics. I don’t know what’s woven, what’s not, etc… I just understand coton basically! 😭 I know I could ask at the fabric shop, but I’m not even at the level to go and choose my own fabric (so far, I’ve only been able to buy the exact fabric recommendation in a kit).
Nicole Rudolph has videos on each type of fabric that go into great detail of their qualities. There are others you can search for but hers were the only ones that popped into my head right away. Casey is right, making a garment out of the wrong fabric gives you a wonky result when it would be fine if the right fabric was used. You’ll learn more from your mistakes than you will from the instructions. Sew a seam inside out or a piece wrong side out and you won’t do that again (or very often, anyway, ahem).
So, when you have the muslin correctly fitted, do you take it apart and use it for the pattern or are you noting adjustments as you make them, on to the paper pattern? If the latter, how do you manage when your adjustedment doesn't work out?
With regards to measurements, as a beginner the most frustrating thing was advice to match my measurements to that of the pattern. But quite often what is shown on the pattern sleeve cover is a misrepresentation of how fitted or loose the garment is. In retail I am a size 14, but based on my measurements, in the beginning I kept ending up with size 18 sized garments, which obv did not fit. I now exclusively sew size 14. I don't even bother measuring anymore. If I pick up weight and start buying size 16 in the store, then I also start sewing a size 16. Some patterns will show you the finished garment measurements which is far more useful than the other pattern sizes so I would encourage beginners to use that instead. But NEVER EVER just use the size on the pattern based on your measurements. And I wish well meaning videos such as this made this point clearer. Also, while sewing a muslin is useful, have a look at Palmer Pletsch's paper fitting method, sooooo much better, and will speed up the fitting process immensely.
Hi Scout so nice to watch and listen to you. I have a question about the muslin pattern you are shown around the 10 minute mark. Is that one of your patterns?
Thank you! That is a self drafted dress I was working on a couple of months ago for a wedding (so not a pattern I sell): ruclips.net/video/8Hv1H10PNyE/видео.html
The first 1,000 people to use the link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: skl.sh/patternscout08221
A lot of us who sew get asked to make garments for others. I have learned to say no. I can fit myself but learned through experience how tough it can be to fit others. I violated the muslin rule making a dress from a new pattern with a very expensive Liberty fabric. I hated the result and threw it in a pile 2 years ago. But this week I was able to salvage it by putting my increased experience to work in altering the dress. I was so happy with the result!
I will only sew for my children and grandchildren. I had twice before sewn for others, when my own children were young. One was a wedding dress (not a full-length one with a train, but it was more of an evening dress) and one was a dress for an obese 12 year old whose Mom brought the pattern and it was not sized for her daughter....Both those experiences were not positive. After that, I flat-out refused to sew, or even help sew, for others. It's amazing how many people think you should be thrilled to sew for them.
It’s important to remember, especially as women, that we deserve clothes that fit us. We are not obligated to try to fit our clothes!
So true!
AND, when they fit properly we can see our bodies are perfectly FINE!
Very true!
For me actual muslin fabric can be a bit pricey, so I use sheets that I buy at Goodwill. I do check the tags on the sheets to check what composition the fabric is that the sheets are made from.
I do that as well, Good Will and estate sales--everyone has old linens for sale (that, and yard tools and Christmas decor).
Thank you for this! I was hoping it was ok to use old sheets
I prefer old sheets to cheap muslin from the fabric store. I used cheap unbleached cotton for a muslin one time, but the fabric had a lot of stretch because of its loose weave. I prewashed the fabric before cutting, but the muslin turned out to be too small because it stretched on the body. I remade the muslin with old sheet fabric, which has a higher thread count and was more stable. I save old top sheets for this kind of use when the fitted sheet has worn out.
@@rmonogue Me too!💕
What fabric do you find best?
I work at a library and I just want to say thank you for talking up interlibrary loans! It's such a great way for patrons to get books they want when their system doesn't have it. ALSO, it's ok to get books from other branches in your own system! I don't know how many times people have turned down putting items on hold. But if you don't want to drive all over just put it on hold and wait for it to come to your local branch and you'll be notified when it arrives. Libraries are a great resource for sewists. Definitely take advantage of these great comments resources if you can. 😊
Yes!!! Man, I could go on and on about how much I appreciate the libraries! Such an amazing free resource. I didn't take full advantage of them until I started sewing. I just decided to check for a couple of sewing books and was blown away by how much they had to offer (feels silly to say it now because it is so obvious to me now how awesome they are haha). You are doing great work! :)
I started using my interlibrary loans services in recent years and it is so great! Also, our library system tallys the purchase price of each item so you know how much money you saved by using your local library. I'm in the thousands these past couple of years.
I’ve been a huge supporter of the public library since the bookmobile started coming to our house when I was 5. All we needed at the time was to get the names of 5 families that would come. Mom would always have goodies to eat so the librarians changed their schedules so they could have their breaks at our hour. Way after I was married, the bookmobile was still coming every week. Now I love Libby.
100%. I’d also like to add during the education stage, learn about your body type and height, and what silhouettes will work best. A very popular pattern that’s trending may look fabulous on a tall rectangular frame, but absolutely swamp a petite curvy pear or hourglass frame - and the opposite is also true. We all need different things to look fabulous.
Everyone's needs are a little different! :) Thanks so much for watching!
great advice ❤ also decide on the color palette that flatters. Research your body type. When you buy fabric in flattering colors and patterns that accentuate your body type, big $ saving tips. ❤
Nicole Rudolph does a really good deep dive into many of the fabrics you'll run into for each of the main natural fibers (Cotton 101, Silk 101, Wool 101, Linen 101). She personally does historical sewing, but her videos are really helpful for understanding the properties of different kinds of fabrics, despite them all coming from the same fiber source. (Edited for clarity.)
Sound advice, Casey. I just did a linen shirt dress. Required three muslins of the bodice to get all the darts (bust, waist, back) correct as well as the petite adjustments. I took my time and I’m so proud of the end result. I learned so much! Thanks for raising the bar here on you tube.
Such a great feeling! I know you'll love wearing it :) I'm always happy when I give a more tailored garment the time it deserves!
Have a look at Palmer Pletsch's paper fitting method, sooooo much better, and will speed up the fitting process immensely.
So you made four shirt dresses just to make one? I can't do that, I have fibromyalgia.
@@thaloblue Just relating my own experiences , not suggesting anyone else needs to do that. And no, I didn’t make 4 shirt dresses. I made 3 muslins of the bodice to check for proper fit. These are basted, not sewn, and do not include button holes or collar. Just the basics. You, of course, do what works for you.
If you go to a sewing expo or conference, almost every pattern vendor will do a fit session with you. Some will tell you how to fit their own patterns to you and others will give you general advice for any pattern company. I've had sessions with a few different pattern companies or designers and walked away with pages of useful notes and measurements. Sew Expo in Puyallup WA is the big one, but there are others. Added bonus is that you can spend the day with other people who share your passion for sewing.
I would love to go to one of those. Haven't heard of any in my area, but they are probably more popular in the US. (I live in Canada). But I am going to try to find one, now that I've seen your comment
@@johannaholmgren8088 where are you in Canada? There is usually a big show like this in Toronto. I live in the US near Buffalo, which is close to Canada. I've been to the Toronto show more than I've been to US shows. But obviously, during the pandemic, we couldn't go. It's worth a trip.
@@johannaholmgren8088 In Canada its called Creativ Festival . And they have expanded to BC and Alberta. Check it out.
Great information as always. I think you are right about having an experienced seamstress, etc. give you feedback on starting points for patterns. I think the last time I had any help with that I was learning how to sew in junior high. I’m 71 now.😂I have learned more about fitting, pattern selection and fabrics in the last few years than I did in the 40 years before that. RUclips channels like yours have taught me so much! It has definitely made me fall in love with sewing again!
I totally agree--I've learned SO much from RUclips. So amazing what can be found online these days! Thanks for watching, Barb! :)
"Always measure the pattern" is good advice, seldom heard! Nothing on the pattern's size chart will tell you how much ease is allowed. Comparing the pattern measurements to a garment that fits well also helps.
And it is so wonderful to have a well fitted garment on. I have been obsessed with haute couture sewing half my life to learn how to make a garment that is "a second skin". It doesn't matter your body size when a garment fits properly you will always look good.
your words about "shame" and "pattern doesn't fit me right out of the package" totally CLICKED since my mother, who made a lot of my clothing, always complained how she couldn't get things to fit me right (while for my sisters they would fit just fine). I was the cause of her angst and she didn't enjoy sewing for me. I felt so much SHAME. For DECADES. And now it just suddenly CLICKED....there is nothing wrong with ME. I don't know why it took me so long to realize this, but I am thankful beyond words for this little video you've made. Thank you, Thank you, THANK YOU.
I’m a relatively new sewist. I’ve taken a few sewing lessons and watched lots of videos on how to measure myself and on fitting. This is the first time that anyone has said that I can put my waist where mine actually is on a pattern! (I’m short-waisted). I thought (erroneously, I’m so happy to say) that the waist had to go where the pattern designer put it.
Every other measurement you mentioned in addition to the usual bust and hip measurement was new to me, and I’d never heard of measuring the pattern itself either. That’s really valuable information for me. I can follow pattern instructions, but like many people, fitting is my bugbear, so this video has been a revelation - thank you so much! I’m now a subscriber and have started watching your other videos.
I'm so glad it was helpful info! The best thing about sewing is that we can make it custom to fit our style and lifestyle! Thanks so much for watching and subscribing! :)
I know it's been awhile, but remember to use the edge of your tape measure so it stands up and not flat to paper when measuring curves for better accuracy
Do you bother making a muslin? Seems like absolutely unnecessary extra work when you can just adjust the garment itself.
I am a self-taught seamstress and can do most tailoring jobs. For most fashion alterations I just turn inside out and pin. Mostly works, but deconstructing garments and remaking is the only true tailored way. I love working with vintage patterns.
I ALWAYS remake hems on cheap fashion goods. Makes them look much more expensive. Also change the buttons! Magic.
Great tips!
I have found that to just turn a garment inside out and pin it is not recommended. The body can be shaped different on each side. I am. I must pin the alterations on me from the right side, then measure where the pins are and turn the garment inside out and re-pin. If I didn't, the larger or smaller side of the garment would will not fit correctly.
Thank you! I have this burning desire to start sewing. I have never! I know nothing! The closest I get to sewing is watching and enjoying The Great British sewing bee but I believe it's never too late. I love your channel, it motivates me a lot. Love from South Africa. xx
You are so right, it's never too late! You can do this! I know it! And it is a lot of fun :) Thanks so much!
Dear Renate,
I am right there with you with my desire to sew, sew, sew; I have forgotten what little I knew about sewing with a machine back in the 1970s. And just like that: whamo! My neighbor gave me a beautiful sewing machine! I am going to take lessons at Joanne's. It is never too late to learn anything. In fact, I just earned my third MA degree! Age is truly just a number.
Hi Renate, I’m Ros and I live in Durban . I also want to start sewing. Where do you get your patterns from? I want to try simple stuff. Regards Ros
I’m glad you said sewing your own clothes brings up feelings about your body. I’ve never sewn an article of clothing because I’m feeling insecure about my measurements right now. I think it’s the only thing holding me back at the moment. I hate the feeling of clothes not fitting me and so I have been procrastinating about making my own clothes and facing my measurements.
But the beauty in all this is once I overcome the shock of my measurements, my clothes will fit perfectly.
I have used the interlibrary state programs for years here in West Tennessee. I also utilize Libby, an online library that you can use your local library card. You can get in touch with with your local librarian to get your library card number.
Yes, I forgot about Libby! Libraries are awesome :)
@@PatternScout I took my kids before they could read and now they read everything they can get their hands on and married people who love to read as well. My oldest sister (13 years older) use to take me all the time no matter where she lived. All of my siblings are huge book lovers of every genre you can think of as well as my kids.
As a sewist who used to make her own clothes out of necessity when young (50+ years ago) and am just restarting, I just wanted to say how much I appreciate your attitude, your forthrightness, and of course, the benefit of your experience. I have only watched a few videos as yet, but already know that I'll watch a lot more and buy some patterns from you although a very different shape and height. Thank you from Wales/ Cymru.
So glad you are enjoying the videos! Thank you for watching! :)
You explain measurements so well. I usually buy enough fabric now that I can cut another pattern or part of the pattern instead of doing a muslin for more advanced pattern ideas. I have done many muslins especially for pants. The only problem with pants and using a different fabric, the stretch or lack of stretch can really affect the fit and how the pants sew up and wear. So often I use my prior muslin and test to make I can fit into them. I also have a block pattern for different bodice fabrics and styles. I now make sure all those measurements you talk about are on all of them.
Your wardrobe is perfect for you and your advice on how to get there is spot on. This is one of the best videos to explain the work that goes into sewing for oneself. And your advice about allowing yourself to make mistakes and garments that don't work, is so valuable. I use all those information resources you talk about. I have been able to find solutions for all my fit and design questions. Your videos are right at the top. Thanks for this one and all you have done prior to this one.
I really learned fit and design, to make my own patterns, from books I got at the University here in my area back in the 80's. What a game changer. And making bra patterns for women, I learned how much easier it is to have someone else do the fitting adjustments. It is so hard to do them on oneself. The local sewing guild chapter has a fitting group here that meets occasionally.
Great insight and information. I wish I knew all this when I was your age. I am happy that women can get this solid advice and understanding on how to make garments they can actually wear and enjoy and truly build a great wardrobe.
Thanks so much Jeannette! I'm all for building a great wardrobe and learning as much as I can (and I have so much more satisfaction in my wardrobe now, too). Thanks for sharing and the kind words!
What sound advice delivered beautifully. This video is a keeper for me, going straight to my saved list for sewing. No complicated, head scratching tips but lots of useful information.
Thanks Casey.
Thank you! So glad you found it helpful!
I dedicated this summer to getting a well fitting shorts pattern. And I did it! I learned a lot from J Stern Designs U-tube channel. I made many muslins. Luckily I was gifted? some very ugly quilting cottons. Now it’s super quick to whip up some. I then went on with my knowledge of crotch curve and how to reduce baggies under the butt and perfected a knit pants pattern. Thanks to channels like yours, fitting is easier to accomplish and sewing is a lot more fun!
Yes!! 🙌🙌 this is how you do it!
Nice to know it's not just me that sometimes gets stuck with fitting problems and how effective taking a break is. So often the answer comes to me when I'm half awake in the early morning and I can kind of see the garment in 3D in my mind's eye.
Same!! The solution is there when I give my mind and body a break!
Me too!
Casey, you’re one of the best RUclips creators I’ve ever watched. Your voice is so easy to listen to, your attitude and smiley demeanour are infectious. I often find myself giggling along with you when you are so sweet and self deprecating. Your technical skills are excellent which makes watching so pleasant. I’ve been learning so much from you and I’m enjoying binge watching your videos. 🥰
That is so nice, thank you!! So glad you are enjoying the videos :)
Thank you so much for sharing advice on garment fitting. I'm 5'2" with an hourglass figure. Nearly all patterns I use need adjusting in some way or another.
When I'm more confident my aim is to atempt making a pair of jeans that actually fit.....
Thanks again, love the content of your platform. 🙂
Thank you, Kim! Jeans are so fun to make (and way easier than I expected when I started)!
This video was such needed for me while I’m trying to fit a jacket pattern. I’m in my second mock-up on my muslin and I feel like I’m the only one who can’t get it right. This video helped me see that it happens to others too and that I shouldn’t give up and possibly take a break!
Definitely happens to me too! Breaks help a lot--it's hard to step away sometimes, but it really does help relieve the stress and clear your mind a little :) Glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks so much for watching and best of luck with your jacket!
Realizing that watching channels with similar body types really helps.... I've been watching people with many less curves or more around the midsection. I'm a short torso, hourglass, even 150 pounds overweight, I still have curves in places a lot of places don't. I've been watching you for 2 days, and have seen you make the alterations I would probably need to make to any other pattern.
Every day is a new learning experience. I have learned so much by just trying to make garments and by studying how other garments are made. It can be very difficult and frustrating at times. Sometimes I have to work on something else for a while and come back to the project later. Just make sure that you don’t pack it away that you will never find it again. 😊
Thank you for the excellent information and encouragement. I'm back to sewing and getting ready to make a wool jacket with a lining. I will definitely need to focus on fit and I will be using your advice.
I'm so glad it was helpful and encouraging! Hope your jacket project is a success!
Love your peptalks, presentation esp concerning pragmatic preparations: honest no frills tape measure tell-alls, and breaking before broke, taking the pause that refreshes. My worst character flaws
Thank you so much, glad they are helpful and encouraging! :)
I always love your videos and sew alongs. And I cannot tell you how helpful it is to be able to get that FBA already done. The only thing I have ever had to adjust on your patterns is the length. I always have to do a FBA on every single pattern I get. Your patterns are so well drafted and they are perfect for my body type. And they're really pretty designs too. You mentioned Alexandra Morgan and Aneka from Made to Sew.. I have learned sooo much from them as well. Another one is "Thoughtful Creativity" She does a lot of simple pattern drafting and has a lot of material that you can print out for reference. Thanks Casey, I am so grateful for this channel.
Many thanks, Cathleen! Glad to know the patterns work well for you! I have heard of Thoughtful Creativity, great videos! I've learned a ton from Alexandra and Aneka...they were my go-tos when I was starting out!
For anyone who lives in the Northern Virginia or DC area, Stitch Sew Shop in Old Town Alexandria is an excellent resource for fitting help. You can get expert one-on-one fitting assistance (as well as help with your project) for an hourly price. Google for their web address. I have also taken several classes with them, the latest being an outstanding shirt making/fitting class.
After many years break from sewing I am jumping back in, and really appreciate this particular video especially about attitude about fitting!
Me too!
You are the most detailed teacher when it comes to information. And right on everything. I get caught up in sewing and sew for hours before I take a break; wearing myself out to finish or fix a problem. But yes, you are right! When I have gotten away from the sewing machine for awhile and come back, sometimes I see the answer to what I needed. And you mentioned about buying the correct pattern for the matching material. That is highly important! I chose a slacks pattern I just loved. I made the slacks out of a nice cotton material and proudly wore them shopping. When I went to get into my SUV, I couldn't lift my leg up high enough to get in. When I did get home, I looked at the pattern, and was unaware that it said for stretch material only. Oh dear! The lessons to be learned.
Thank you so much, Katie! I've definitely been there with pants! 😅
Thanks for the mention! It’s so nice to hear that the tutorials have been helpful! 💕
Love your videos, they have been such a huge help!! :)
First time on your channel, and I love your presentation style and content. Trying to make more garments for my senior body and lifestyle, but having so much trouble figuring out which garments would look good on me and making the inevitable adjustments. Will definitely make muslins and also check out the resources you recommend. Thanks!
I love the idea of consulting a professional tailor or seamstress to get advice or tips for fitting! I would happily pay someone for their time and advice. I would trust their expertise in helping me get accurate measurments and the right adjustments for a great fit! My husband is usually the one I get to help me with measurements for myself, but he's used to working with things like stone and wood - very different from fabric and flesh! 😂
Yes definitely different than fabric and flesh! 😂 Occasionally, I'll try to enlist my husband for measurement help, but end up finding it easier to twist myself into a pretzel to do it myself haha. Would be great to have a pro help with that!
Thank you great video. TAKE A BREAK best advice. I have a little sewing area in my bedroom and a 4x4 sheet of masonite on my bed where I put my cutting mat. I can go in and do a bit of sewing whenever I feel up for it and quit without a lot of cleanup. I quit when I get stuck and come back when I have the right head space. I am just getting back into sewing after 30 years, so I never try to sew with a deadline, when the garment is done its done, no pressure. Love your work.
So important to take the pressure off and enjoy the process like you said! Thank you so much for watching!
Very sound advice! So many skip the muslin and the pressing when making a new pattern. Great video. I love watching your videos! Thanks for all your videos!
Thank you so much!
Patience, yes. Most patterns need adjustments! Thank you ❣️
So true! Thank you, Karol!
Excellent video and you raised all the right points, I think. Great tips especially about ease and taking time out 😘
I see other sewers on various social media groups with numerous alterations attempted..... 😬😢 So easy to slip down the rabbit hole. 🤷🏻♀️💖
Thank you!! Yes I have been down that rabbit hole many times 😅
What a great video Casey, really honest and informative. I find you always give me confidence and reassure to try out the suggestions you put forward. Look forward to your next video as always 🤗🤗
Thanks, Vicki! Glad you are enjoying these videos! Thanks for being here!
Another very useful video to assist in sewing clothes. While I do not have an abnormal body type to fit, I have embarked on patternmaking after discovering how much more costly it is to purchase ready-made patterns. And the fitting issues can crop up just as you mentioned === crotch curves and armscyes. Have found I very much find this to be both a challenging and rewarding pursuit and am overall pleased with the initial results of pattern to garment. Thank you for your information and continued success with your great channel!
Thank you, Dianne! I feel the same way about patternmaking...these days I will mostly draft what I want (or hack a pattern I already have into what I want)!
Thank you! I worked my first pattern after conquering my fear of my sewing machine a few weeks back. After a few hours of learning and frustration, the bottoms were too small.
After a break, I added some extra fabric to that area and carried on.
I learned A LOT, and this video is inspiring to use that as my muslin and to try again.
Thank you for sharing your tips and your time!
Always a learning process! Yes, keep trying. I've made a lot of bad pants, but now I make mostly good pants! haha...lots and lots of practice! Thanks so much for watching!
@@PatternScout You are such an inspiration for my journey! 💗
@@amber1924 that means a lot to me! 🥰
Great video! I always learn something new when I watch your videos. I just recently started measuring my patterns and was surprised to find differences in what the envelope said and what the pattern measured out to... I just always thought if something came out wrong it was my mistake. I will definitely check out my local library for resources too! Thanks😊
Thank you, Julie! I have found the best resources at the library!
Why do I only find your video today!!! It’s such a inclusive guide for beginnings 😊
Hello Ms. Scout. This is my first time looking for cutting, sewing, fitting etc. I am so glad that I found your youtube channel. Thank You for your guideness to all of us!!!!
So glad! Thanks for watching! :)
I like your passion, honesty n advice
I have learned so much watching your channel- so glad I found you. I am self taught but have sewn for home- pillows, drapes, bed skirts etc. clothing intimidates me but your channel has inspired me to try! Thank you!
I'm so glad to know that! :)
Oh my goodness. You have a lovely figure! I'm in my 70s now and wish I'd appreciated my young body when I was young. Now I'm trying to be thankful for my body as it is (not nearly as "good" as it was when I was young!) considering how much better it is now than it will be when I'll be in my 90s, LOL! If you haven't already done a video on pressing and ironing, it is needed. There aren't very many videos on that topic and I see eager, inexperienced sewists all over the internet skipping those vital steps. I still hear the voice (from my junior high home economics teacher) in my head, "PRESS IT IN THE MANNER IN WHICH IT WAS SEWN." Nowadays, I think they say, "Press it flat to set the stitches and relax the fabric so it can be shaped." "Yes," to pressing and ironing! I just subscribed. Your videos are very well done: informative and entertaining. Thank you.
I just found your channel today and I was captivated by your presentation. Your explanations are easy to understand and your content is so applicable. Thank you! I have made garments for years and I want to make some of my own clothes besides quilting, making tote bags, and household items.
Excellent advice. Fitting is such a challenge in the journey. First I focused on my technical sewing skills and construction, now it’s all about the fit. I find picking the right fabric is half the battle. I have made a garment and it was perfect (well, I’ve never made a thing that didn’t have at least one mistake in it I had to compensate for) I loved it. Made another one the same way and big fail because I used a different type of fabric. Calling in the Calvary is a smart idea, Saremy Duffy over at Sew Sew Live offers a virtual service. I think Jen Stern and Kim of Dorothy’s Daughter will as well.
yes! So true! Fabric choice is very important and can completely change the look and fit of a garment. I have also found a few fabrics that I like for most projects, that I turn to over and over (like linen!) because they are predictable and easy to work with.
Inter library loan, or ILL, is a nationwide system of loaning books. I have gotten books from The Library of Congress (can only be used inside the borrowing library), and once the only library that owned my requested book was the hometown library of the author. It’s a wonderful perk.
Oh wow, that is so awesome! Libraries are such an amazing service to the community!
Absolutely loving your content, Casey! It's always fun to see your personality coming through, too. Sewing frustration and sharp objects are a no-no! 😂😂
I'm so glad to know it! Thank you so much! Yes I have learned to put away sharp objects when I'm distracted by sewing frustrations 😂😅
Just discovered this... you are so encouraging, informative and kind.
My goal has been to develop 4 or 5 tried and true patterns and get lots of use from them. But this past year, I have started to muslin too much and overfit, so I need to step back and just repeat the 2 or 3 I've mastered, over and over.
I love sewing for my daughter, she loves flowy things and knits which require less precision. Should take a page from her book, too.
Thanks so much!
Maybe making a set of personal slopers for each basic pattern shape, and have fun designing from there!
This is very important information for beginner sewers. Different pattern companies have different concepts of sizes. It really sucks to make a whole garment only to find out it’s too small.
You just spoke about a current fit issue I'm having with trousers - the descending waistband when seated! Especially aggravating when I'd already added height to the centre back seam, so I'll try adding some length to the crotch as well!
Taylor from Blueprints for Sewing has given fitting classes. I took one and it was really useful. I learned a trick for two small extra darts (in addition to the normal side dart) I would have never thought to try for a good bust fit (large bust) and it transformed how my shirt looked on me. Look for classes at a local sew shop.
Oh this is great--thank you so much for sharing!
I am in the adjust phase and almost giving up cuz I cannot make it Fit! Thanks for your encouragement to persevere
I'm so glad! Definitely keep going! :)
Me too, rather frustrating,my material was very expensive. However I’m not about to give up 😉
Hi Casey, I am a newbie and a guy thinking of starting my own styles for fun. Thank you for being an inspiration!! 💕
Thank you! That's so nice!
I’m going to use several of your suggestions. I have been looking for a pants pattern…love your idea to use an item I have to make a pattern! I have RTW pants that are wearing out and were too short from the beginning but otherwise fit well… I’m 5’9”. Thanks!
I'm so glad it was helpful info! Thanks for watching and best of luck with your pants project! :)
Awesome tips and resources, thanks! Especially about taking breaks! I think it was from poet Leena Norms in the video where she made her own dress for the first time where I heard that, and she said she'd learned the hard way that people who love sewing usually don't do it for more than 3 hours a day, and if you don't love it or are new to it, you might want to stick to only two hours or less per day to start. After watching some of your vids, I think I might want to try making a tee shirt. The last garment I made was over 20 years ago in high school home ec, where my sweatshirt grade was marked down because the finish on the collar was too thin.
That is such a good way to look at it. I usually hit my wall around 3 hours...I enjoy it so much more when I take my time and take breaks! Thanks so much for sharing that!
This is such great advice!! Thank you so much for sharing what you've learned. Experience is everything. 🙌
A fabric store in my area offers sewing classes and classes to get help with your own sewing project and even knitting problems. It’s called „consultation hour“.
Thank you so much Casey! This was very helpful and a great overview! I’ve only used patterns to make costumes for my kids and I’d like to try some items for me … you have given me an excellent start! 😊
This was such an interesting and informative video, thanks so much for sharing! 🤩
You are so welcome! Thank you!!
When you get a multisize pattern, do you cut the actual tissue to your size, or do you trace that size onto your muslin pieces?
That way, you can use the pattern again for larger sizes?
I am interested to know too, if sewers take apart the muslin and use those pieces as the pattern since you know the fit is correct? As in you finish the muslin but keep it and take it apart to cut new finished fabric for a new item you are making.
I usually cut the pattern (sometimes trace, especially for tissue patterns that I can't reprint). I have used muslins as pattern pieces before too. But I usually just make the adjustments to the paper pattern, and re-use the muslins for other muslins if I can.
@PatternScout that is awesome. Thanks for the tip.
This is great. My technical sewing skills are pretty good, but I am really challenged by fitting. My apex seems to be a key measurement as I age. The girls are heading south. 🙃 You look absolutely fabulous!
Thank you! Oh yes, the ever-changing bust apex...I can relate!
Fitting is such a bear, especially when you’re trying to fit with no help.
Listening again for advice. Thank you so much for sharing all this knowledge ❤
I've only just discovered your channel, and I am so pleased I have! All your advice resonates with me. I am coming to the realisation that this wonderful hobby is potentially a lifelong learning curve - there's always more to try and to master - and for me that's tremendously exciting! We all probably just want things to turn out perfectly the first time, but usually they don't, and that's where the learning happens. And yes, tears of frustration and anger are always a cue to go and do something else! It's amazing how often solutions come to mind while we're asleep 😯 Thanks for sharing all your knowledge and advice, Casey!
Thank you so much, I am so glad this resonated with you! Definitely a lifelong learning curve. And I am totally right there with you on finding that very exciting and interesting. That's what keeps me coming back for more!
I’m a beginner garment maker and librarian…loving your videos and the ILL shoutout in this video 🥰📚
Excellent video. This is so valuable for an intermediate sewist. I have learned the basics but this was not included. Thank you.
Thank you so much! Glad it is helpful!
Love the way you explain the measurements! It finally makes sense to me 😍
Thank you soooo much for this! I have always struggled with pattern fitting.
Great overview of all things fitting! Thank you so much for the links and resources!
It really hit home when you said that you're not trying to sew something smaller that will fit you at a later date.
That vintage pattern sounds amazing! I love finds like that--I have a few in my stash I still want to get to (every winter I promise myself i'll make one of the vintage blazers in my pattern stash--maybe THIS winter haha). And I also want to get more sewing and patternmaking books in my personal library!
Thanks! Really appreciate the shoutout for libraries! So true and so needed at this point.
Thank you so much!! Libraries are so amazing! So many resources in the form of books and beyond!
Very informative, great tips. But the best thing was learning that even you get frustrated and upset. Now I realize it is not just me and I should do what you recommend, step away from the sharp implements lol and take a break :)
Oh absolutely not just you! :) Just last week I had to walk away from a project that was testing me!
This was so helpful and full of great resources and advice. As important is the point you make a few times about how normal it is to not get a perfect fit out of the packet on the first try. I made a wearable toil and forgot it’s purpose and then got sad because the armcye is too big. Will keep on working and learning 😀.
So glad it was helpful! I have to remind myself constantly that good fit is a process! It's so easy to get discouraged, but getting a great fit is so rewarding! :)
I remember my mom saying to me how this one lady at church made such cute dresses for her two little girls, but how they’d look so much better if she would’ve pressed them. It really does make all the difference!
Grrrl, you so good! Thanks for sharing all the wisdom. I need to measure more often 🙄. FYI, I just bought the Byrdie last night, as part of my mission to find the perfect shirt🤞🏻. Also, I just used the cozi jacket pattern to make my MIL a bathrobe. So good. I tagged you on ig. Love all you do. Keep it coming! x
Ps how’s that jeans pattern coming along 😜
Yay! Hope you love the Byrdie, thanks for trying it out! And that robe looks so COZI ;) such a good idea to make it a robe!
Ummm...the jeans pattern! That is one of those that is pretty much ready to go into drafting/grading and I keep putting it off haha. I need to do it!! Maybe I'll finally feel inspired to work on jeans again when fall weather starts rolling in!
I want to get back into sewing some of my garments….something I haven’t done in a long while. So I will subscribe to your channel and learn again…it is easy to sew for a child but no so easy for oneself.
Thanks Casey this was great!! So much information and lots of resources to check out!! Thank you for sharing!!😊
You're so welcome and I am glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching! :)
Your videos I have watched are very helpful. Thank you 🤗
Thank you! So glad!
Any recommendations for petites sewing patterns? I'm 5' and don't even have a reliable starting point for patterns. I'm trying to learn to draft my own but the process is slow going and having a pattern to start with would be a great way to learn more about garment construction.
I took private lessons to make a tailored jacket. I'm hard to fit with narrow sloping shoulders and big hips so any jacket I buy just splays open below the waist. The class was four lessons and it was all going well until the third lesson when I wore a different bra so the jacket fit differently. The teacher got so caught up on adjusting the bust again, when it fit beautifully in the other bra, and I could not distract her from that. We were supposed to do the pockets that day (nervous about welts) but spent the whole time on the bust and I was so frustrated I never went back for the fourth lesson and the jacket has been hanging in my closet half completed for years now. Sad end of an experience I was really excited about.
Hello Casey, congratulations for 96.900 subscribers. I really like your videos and am momentarily binge watching from your oldest to the newest again. May I ask a question? I've visited a course for a bloper and have learned to make a pattern. Then the seamstress made the fitting adjustments for my body and now everything fits really good. But... How and where can I increase the pattern for a loser fitting button down shirt? I don't want to change the fit of the neck, shoulders and armholes? In the back I will insert a pleat but what about the front? Thank you so much for answering. Love from Germany
This was so FABULOUS! Thank you for this video.
Aw thanks so much!!
When I started sewing 8 years ago, I was 130lbs, now I vary between 99-106. It was a damn good thing I traced all my patterns or I would have to spend a lot of money buying new ones, and maybe the same ones I couldn’t buy anymore.
I buy cheap sheets to use for muslins.
Yes, people say measure your waist at the smallest part like you said, but I have always placed the top of my pants wherever I want.
Using the sit on a flat surface and measure from the seat to the waist is not an accurate measurement for me. What I do is take the full crotch measurement from front to back, then divide it by 2, then take from the front and add that to the back, because the back is bigger. This generally works for me, but I still find that I need at least another inch extra on the back. Funny though, because people say I don’t have an ass.
All great points! Thanks for sharing (and watching! ) :)
Thank you, Casey. This is a very helpful video!
You're so welcome! So glad it is helpful, thank you!
My problem as a beginner is that I don’t understand fabrics. I don’t know what’s woven, what’s not, etc… I just understand coton basically! 😭 I know I could ask at the fabric shop, but I’m not even at the level to go and choose my own fabric (so far, I’ve only been able to buy the exact fabric recommendation in a kit).
The fabric knowledge comes with time...choosing based on pattern recommendations is great!
Nicole Rudolph has videos on each type of fabric that go into great detail of their qualities. There are others you can search for but hers were the only ones that popped into my head right away. Casey is right, making a garment out of the wrong fabric gives you a wonky result when it would be fine if the right fabric was used. You’ll learn more from your mistakes than you will from the instructions. Sew a seam inside out or a piece wrong side out and you won’t do that again (or very often, anyway, ahem).
So, when you have the muslin correctly fitted, do you take it apart and use it for the pattern or are you noting adjustments as you make them, on to the paper pattern? If the latter, how do you manage when your adjustedment doesn't work out?
I love your shirt :) I have that fabric and can’t bring myself to cut into it
Thank you very much for all the great information you have in this video .
This was such a great video to continue my fashion design journey
Great info, helpful, encouraging. Watching it on my computer it was blurry, is there anything to be done about that? Thanks for the great input!
I'm so glad! Thanks for watching! Not sure why it would be blurry--maybe the internet connection had a glitch?
With regards to measurements, as a beginner the most frustrating thing was advice to match my measurements to that of the pattern. But quite often what is shown on the pattern sleeve cover is a misrepresentation of how fitted or loose the garment is. In retail I am a size 14, but based on my measurements, in the beginning I kept ending up with size 18 sized garments, which obv did not fit. I now exclusively sew size 14. I don't even bother measuring anymore. If I pick up weight and start buying size 16 in the store, then I also start sewing a size 16. Some patterns will show you the finished garment measurements which is far more useful than the other pattern sizes so I would encourage beginners to use that instead. But NEVER EVER just use the size on the pattern based on your measurements. And I wish well meaning videos such as this made this point clearer. Also, while sewing a muslin is useful, have a look at Palmer Pletsch's paper fitting method, sooooo much better, and will speed up the fitting process immensely.
Hi Scout so nice to watch and listen to you. I have a question about the muslin pattern you are shown around the 10 minute mark. Is that one of your patterns?
Thank you! That is a self drafted dress I was working on a couple of months ago for a wedding (so not a pattern I sell): ruclips.net/video/8Hv1H10PNyE/видео.html
Thank you tips really appreciated, I do not like making g a muslin but I am forcing g myself to do it so as to not wait good expensive fabric❤
So glad it's helpful! Thanks for watching!
You are the BEST so far!