A caveat: non-woven interfacing is synthetic and if your main fabric can handle a hot iron (i.e. cotton), that doesn't mean your interfacing can. I made this mistake with a piece of sew-in interfacing I was using in a waistband. I pressed it at the same temperature I had been pressing the whole garment... and melted the interfacing. Thankfully, it was easily removed and redone.
I bought sew-in interfacing but didn’t realize I’d bought 100% polyester, oops. At least I’d seen beforehand that you have to be careful about using heat so I’m being mindful about which projects I use it for! But also good to know, I wondered what would happen if I ironed it. Hadn’t tested it yet.
While taking apart men's shirts, I learned that the best interfacing to use is simply more of the very same fabric that the shirt is made from. Some of the iron in interfacing glues can bleed through and show on the right side of the fabric. They look a lot like grease stains.
When I learned to sew (in the mid-1970s), interfacing was something you cut out of the same fabric you were using for the garment, then sewed it in with the same seam allowance (5/8 inch) and hand stitched the other edge down. (I'm thinking mostly of necklines.) I stopped sewing garments years ago but have been encouraged and inspired to start making my own garments again, largely because of your channel, @Evelyn, and another I subscribe to. I appreciate your tutorials so much!
I share your story, Timeline, stropped, wanting to restart. I sewed all my clothing at one time. One difference, I did use interfacing using the different sew in weights.
I’m a very beginner sewer and trying to understand what you mean. Do you mean as you’re sewing your seam allowance, you just add this extra cut of fabric on top and stitch it down to the seam allowance as well? And then with the other edge, if you stitch it down (hand or otherwise), wouldn’t you see the stitches from the right side of the garment?
This was really a big help. I am 71 and started sewing in grade school. Loved to sew but back then I got so intimidated by interfacing and lining clothes. I stopped for many years and now back to it. The old fear is still here but with these educational videos I hope to eliminate that fear. Thank you
Hi Evelyn, I would recommend using a non-stick pressing cloth so you can use the correct heat to activate the glue on fusible nonwoven interfacing and spraying the interfacing with water to also increase the bonding and stop bubbling. It really works. 🙂💐
The sewing show I used to watch called the Sewing Connection with Shirley Adams which is now on RUclips (yes I’m excited). Anyway she used to say interfacing was part of the thinking part of the project. She would take scraps of the fabric iron on different interfacing to see how it interacts. That way you know before you start if it’s going to be what you want.
@@dale3404 wow you’re so lucky. I’m sure it was wonderful. Between her show and my kids complete faith that I could make or fix everything I managed. Oh and Sewing with Nancy! Another wonderful teacher.
@@robintheparttimesewer6798My children and my grandchildren have the same undying faith in my abilities. Nancy was a wonderful teacher, wasn’t she? I miss her, still watch her shows and use her books.
@@dale3404 yes she was. I still use her books as well. Haven’t seen her show in years. I miss them both though it’s great to have this online community. It’s always nice to have have new teachers and a place to share our ideas.
Hello from Greece, l love watching your channel. I just wanted to say that you didn't mention that woven interfacing needs to be cut on grain like actual fabric unlike non woven. I say this because it's important for the outcome. Oh and thanks for the hair interfacing comment, l was about to add some in my stash
The biggest game-changer for me was discovering fusible woven cotton interfacing! I basically don't use polyester, so have my iron set to hot (three dots) as a default. I've melted a LOT of synthetic interfacing! Flatlining with firm wovens is also excellent for adding structure but not cardboard :)
For anyone at least in North America (I don't know if the rest of the world has access to this brand) The brand Pellon has an amazing range of different interfacing materials including both a fusible and non-fusible hair canvas.
I don’t have money to buy interfacing so in the past when it’s been required, I just use the same fabric or a lighter fabric as a facing . For the next thing I want to make, it will require facing so this video came at the best time!
That’s interesting, you were resourceful. I didn’t ever think of that as an option instead I delayed sewing, this is a good idea for when the sewjo hits and the budget is low. Brilliant
Woven interfacing is an eye opener. I was desperate to get the right weight and all they had was woven. I absolutely love woven interfacing now. No irons, minimal long term garment fraying and balling and no need to get the iron just right to fuse the interfacing with their glue.
Actually I'm currently working with interfacing for the first time! I've skipped it before and regretted that later...😅 But now I'm attempting to make a wool coat so I can't skip it this time. I have been watching a lot of your videos during this project and I have found them very helpful!
Greetings, Which did you choose to. for your wool coat? I have mine cut out and questioninvwhst to be using . Foubd this videp very infirmative. Keeping in mind what to be using, she answred me...go by the weight of the fabric that is being used. Also, a good idea to build up our stock. So I did. Only 3 yards of each type and lightweight fusible is snatched up fast, hard to find, and pricy. GiGi In Vintage 🇨🇦
In one of your videos, you talked about, I think it was called blocked interfacing. It was a revelation for me. Something I had never thought of. I'm self-taught, and always learning new things. Ever after, I love using that block method when I can!
Tailor's hair canvas is a must for coats/jackets. It has different properties depending on which way "bend", one stiffer than the other. 2 for 1 And NEVER fold your fabric directly ON the edge of the canvas, the rigid fibers will poke throught the fabric. ( Did that on a waistband, ouch,ouch...)
It also needs a specific kind of stitching . If you see a picture of a mens jacket in the making you will know what l mean. It looks kind like a big upward zig zag..the name in English fails me right now, sorry but l am Greek haha
This video has been so helpful because it seems like no one talks about interfacing as if new sewers already know these things. Once I made some pajamas using flannel and interfaced the collar and front edge of the torso and it was as stiff as a board, obviously, I used the wrong interfacing. As a new sewer, I had no idea there were different kinds and I didn't know what kind of use with flannel. This is still a challenge for me, but I will remember what you said, "light interfacing for light fabrics". Another tip I learned was to test the interfacing on a scrap piece of fabric FIRST before I marry it with my cut-out fabric.. If it feels like cardboard, it's probably too firm for the fabric.
My problem with the iron on is that when I sew my needle will get gummed up. I learned to cut it a smidge smaller than my actual piece to allow for the hems to not be sewn through the "sticky adhesive". Don't know if it's the proper way, but it works.
To store various kinds of interfacing that are not on the bolt, either fold interfacing and instructions and place in a large clear ziplock bag- or if the instructions are printed on a plastic sheet and you have a lot of the instructions - just fold the instructions and sew up the two sides to create a pocket - then put the interfacing inside. This way you always have the appropriate instructions and information as to weight, etc.
Great video thank you, as a beginner I was definitely scratching my head about this subject. Anther more in depth video to expand further would be awesome. I love your channel so much 🙏🏻
This came at a perfect time as I’m planning on going to a fabric store next week to get some interfacing for the first time! I knew what it was used for but not that it came in different thickness/weights so definitely learned something new before I go to the store!
This was helpful! I've been sewing for a long time, but never cared about interfacing until now lol. Because I got into making structured clothing, like vests, bags and jackets. But for my first such project about a year ago I used upholstery fabric (for a vest) which was rigid yet flexible enough in itself to not need any interfacing. But now I'm working on a project of making a matching vest and skirt, and both will need some interfacing for the collar on the vest and the waistband and belt for the skirt. Because this time I'm using a light/medium weight linen blend fabric for a more summer friendly style. I actually asked for advice about that in the local sewing supply store, and got a black, non-woven interfacing with glue. I'm making the garments in a dark red, slightly see-through fabric with a dark green lining, so I figured the white interfacing might show through. That's why I insisted on the black version. I had some very basic knowledge about interfacing prior to watching this video, but thought I'd sharpen up that knowledge now that I'm getting into working on that collar. This is kind of a "spur of the moment" project so I didn't plan it a lot before hand. I just bought whatever nice enough matching fabrics I could find at the local sewing supply store, that interfacing and a matching spool of thread. Then I dug out belt buckle and buttons from my supply at home.
SO much information overload on interfacing and especially when you’re trying to find a compatible product from another brand line (like I love Burda magazine but none of the interfacing they recommend is available here in the US and it’s so hard to figure out what would work instead!) thank you for this video!!!
I have the same problem the other way around: I watch a lot of costuber and they often recommend shops and brands that do not exist in Germany. Even trying to find the German name of the fabric or other material they use is a challenge, because the shop assistants in fabric shops rarely know the English words.
Thank you for covering interfacing! This video is super helpful. I've used interfacing in the past, but I didn't really understand their differences. Now I feel much more confident selecting the interfacing that works best for my projects.
Thank you for doing this video - I usually skipped over this (and stay stitching) thinking who really needs this. Result is a poorly constructed garment...I am learning...
As an experienced sewer, I have tried them all. I rarely use fusible interfacings on expensive fabrics and I use it sparingly on any and all fabrics. I’ve had some seemingly nice interfacings turn stiffer after being washed and/or change texture or show through. Sew-in interfacings are more reliable. Batiste is a wonderful lightweight interfacing. I buy 5 yards of black and white to keep on hand. I use garment scraps in a similar color for medium weight interfacing. I keep some purchased sew in interfacing in case I cannot find a suitable scrap.
Thank you so much for this information! I regularly use fusible tricot interfacing for stabilizing linen and taffeta/dupioni silk for use in home decor (pillows) and church projects (banners, stoles, etc) It comes in 60" and I apply it to the whole cloth to give it more heft and reduce the amount of wrinkling. It's lightweight, holds really well and doesn't bubble up like non-woven sometimes can
I have started sewing for stress relief. Its fantastic 😍... With that being said, i now am getting orders for purses and wallets. I have subscribed to u because u TEACH me what is what and how to use it properly. I love love love u. Please continue to teach me ❤
I have heavy weight fluffy interfacing for making hats, only it’s helpful for pillbox hats and mulling in bonnets. I sometimes use it in head scarfs for cancer patients, but fleece and soft flannel is better. I follow Nicole Rudolph and she has a whole video on tailoring and supplies. Burnley and Trowbridge have a fantastic beatled linen which is stiff and paper thin great for building under structures in historical projects. I’m actually a bit terrible about interfacing, but I’m trying to do better. Search for tailor canvas for hair canvas, for collars that need more structure it’s a beautiful thing. Amazon has it in the US. I’m babbling about sourcing but I have gone down the rabbit hole a few times.
Whisper weft is beautiful to use, also Shapewell for those special event garments where you need structure underneath. The right interfacing makes a huge difference, collars and cuffs, front placket etc. I have an ironing press and rough cut my facing pieces, fuse interfacing to them and then pin the pattern piece Back on and carefully cut out facing and transfer markings. With soft shifting fabrics this method really helps get accurate facings.
Oh BLESS YOU DEAR! You saved me. I just watched a wonderful video from someone else about how to repair my son's ripped shirt. But I had no idea what fusible interfacing was 🙄🥺🥺🥺 And then you watch more videos trying to figure out what it is 🤔and people just throw that term around like we're all supposed to know what it is lol
Thank you, another very informative video. Wish I had seen before. Made a blouse and wish I had used a light weight instead of medium. For a bow tie I didn’t have the thin wool interfacing and used one layer medium (fused only one side) and cut small end pieces to fuse the other side of the fabric for better stitching of the ends. It worked. Thank you.
I have been taught that interfacing needs to be preshrunk. Soak it it hottest tap water until it cools, then line dry. This definitely reduces bubbling, especially with the non woven interfacing. Alternatively, when you are applying the interfacing to your garment piece, hover the iron over it and give it a shot of steam; it will draw up a little bit. Then, fuse it into place, using steam and pressure, and possibly a press cloth. Let it cool before proceeding. Hope this helps! I love your tips!
This is so helpful Evelyn! I’m new to sewing and coming across lots of terms and things I’m not familiar with, thank you for making it so much less intimidating! 🥳
Hello Evelyn, One thing I was hoping you'd cover in this video is which weight interfacing is best to use in/on purses and wallets ? TYSM for sharing this video with us. Will watch it several times, again and again, because it's so informative and useful to me. Take care, and I hope you're feeling better with going through chemo. Prayers are being sent your way 🙏🙏🙏 !!!
Oh my goodness thank you so much for making this video! I'm getting into machine embroidering and videos mention these things but like you said, I get to the store and have no clue what I'm looking at! Now I do! Thank you!! 😊
hate crispy interfacing with a passion. also you can use fabric scraps as sew in interfacing if it matches weight, good way to use up old material but make sure it is a similar fibre and won't show through
Over 20 years ago I scored a roll of fusible interfacing at a garage sale, never seen anything the same since. It’s two different weights along the yardage,one side light and other half medium weight. Cream colour, I have used it for block fusing a jacket front, collars, cuffs, it’s just brilliant. And of course only paid $10 for the lot, bargain. And still have a few metres left
Oh my! I sooo needed this video. I am starting a dress for my daughter and they mentioned interfacing and I honestly wasn't sure what it was. I was going to just make a double copy of my fabric as a solution but now i feel ready to hit the store and get some to begin this project properly. Thanks so much!
learning the weights of them years ago. that said decades ago before i knew what it was i literally just went through resuse items i had and thats how i interfaced items i was making
I knew about interfacing before I started clothing repairs and clothing sewing, but it was only from the point of view of a quilter, since that is the kind of sewing my stepmom does. My first time buying interfacing by myself, I realized how little I actually knew and ended up getting a variety of the prepackaged ones 😅 I figured out what I needed when I got back to my sewing, but now I am set for interfacing for at least a little while
I apply the fusible interfacing to the fabric first then cut out the pieces . Easy peasy. Any shrinkage will already have taken place so good to go. I don’t do for coats or delicate fabrics…I sew these by hand.
I'm definitely on a fusible interfacing journey, not yet in a fusible interfacing happy place! The big issue is that the interfacing just separates from the fabric, the first time I wash the garment. It's tempting to blame the interfacing, but I suspect that the glue's still holding, and it's just pulled away a few surface fibres from the fabric. One of these days, I ought to test that idea by trying to re-fuse a piece that's peeled away. Meanwhile, I just avoid the problem by using sew-in.
Have you tried letting gravity help? Place your fabric on your ironing board wrong side UP, then place your fusible interfacing glue-side DOWN (to help the glue melt into the fabric to bond) and a pressing cloth on top (to avoid the interfacing getting stuck to your iron plate). When ironing; just press, lift, move to the next section and press; don't glide the iron around or it won't attach evenly.
@@LynHannan Thanks, and yes, I already do those things*. I get a good firm glue bond, with gravity and plenty of heat, but it doesn't last. The prime suspect is the fibre pull-away, but another possibility is that my tumble dryer's heat is too much for the glue on the cheap interfacing. I've recently bought some nicer fusible interfacing, and will see if that fares any better. *(Not the pressing cloth part. I live dangerously, but my iron has survived so far!)
I have used a fusible on top of a sew-in interfacing for a bag I made. I cut the heavy weight sew-in minus the seam allowance and the lightweight fusible the whole size and fused it together and it worked out great!
There are just so many different interfacing and this video really helped me. It cN be so confusing when you're just learning and you go to purchase interfacing. Makes you wonder if it's that important and yes it is.
Thank you for enlightening me on the uses and weights of interfacing. I do struggle with the iron on as it very rarely sticks to my fabric. I do have a nice linen interfacing for using with hand woven fabrics, to strengthen the edges and to stop any fraying.
Thank you so much Evelyn I really really enjoyed listening to you take us all through this topic. And I really really love ❤️ the fusible one. But I am going to try the hair canvas type you told us all about. Please stay safe and well too xxx Mags
One big thing with fusible is it's drape: I find woven allows the material to drape more naturally, whereas even finer non-woven can make it appear a bit stiff, because it doesn't behave the same as a woven.
Thank you! Recently I've been looking into sewing and your video is so helpful. Can I ask that with interfacing (and even wadding) do we still need to pre-wash like with fabrics to prevent it from shrinking? If so, how should we pre-wash different types? Many thanks!
Hi Evelyn, great Video. Hoping that your recovery goes well and I will see you in your online classes. I've got my new sewing machine and did some test drive 😊 Regards from a small Greek island.
Awesome video as always❤. I need a sequel just about brims and waistbands.... Because guess who used 2 layers of horsehair in the same direction on a brim and had it collapse? 😂
Love this video I needed this. Can anyone tell me what is "hair stay" interfacing? Is there another name for it. I've watched sewing tutorials and the African tailors are using it for bustiers and corsets.
This was very helpful thank you. I’m curious about the comments saying to use the same fabric and I might try that unless you think there is a significant downside? Sounds like sometimes sew- in interfacing might be less of a hassle.
I've followed you for years- why haven't I watched this one earlier? Thanks Evelyn, great video, as per usual...but Im sewing a binding while I wtch, so I'll watch it again...and again.. ;-)
Evelyn, we all miss you so much. Hope you get to read the comments we leave you. We are glad to hear your chemo is going well albeit it is taking a little longer than the doctors thought it would. I know gals that could not finish their chemo. You at least are able to hang in there. I've never gone thru it but, I know it has to be hard. Keep your heart up, THERE WILL BE AN END TO THE TREATMENT. Then you can get on with your wonderful life. See you soon.
My absolute first experience with interfacing: I managed to buy the right thing by asking in a proper sewing shop, but it was horribly bulky. The paper pattern just said "cut two fabric, cut two interfacing" so that's what I did! I didn't understand that you need to cut it out without seam allowance...
I had some woven fusable interfacing sitting in my stash and I never knew what it was before! I get a lot of fabrics secondhand from people who need to declutter their sewing supplies so I don't always fully understand everything I have-
I would appreciate a list of brand names and the names of the individual interfacings and their uses to take with me on the hunt. Spotlight is my only go to for buying dressmaking supplies. They carry a range but I have very little idea of what I’m buying. Knowledge is power! My sewing results will be better overall I’m sure. I’m a quilter first and now I’m trying to learn to do basic sewing.
Don't get me started on the bubbling/puckering pellon interfacing. Ugh! I've had success with Heat n Bond interfacing, but using sewn in interfacing has me intrigued. Thanks for another great video!
Thank you for this video, it's really helpful! I tried to apply stiff interfacing when making small pouches or bags to keep them in shape, but when the sewn fabrics were turned over to the right side, it always results in wrinkles from turning the stiff interfacing. Should I pick another interfacing? Thanks
Thanks for the video. First question: How would you give structure to collar in knitwear? There are some great 1920's men's sweater with large collars. Second question: I have seen the recommendation to cover the edges of some very structured interfacings with a sewn on band. Otherwise, the hard edge might hurt the fabric. Any experience with that?
Can you please make a vid on how to create that beautiful short jacket. It is really attractive. Did you create the pattern and the style and how did you go about choosing the fabric. The end product, the style, shape, fabric...over all look is very cute. Can you share with us your thought process.
Once I took apart a store-bought blouse that I had loved and hoped to reproduce. I was surprised to find fabric where I expected to find interfacing. In the button band and collar, for example. It appeared to be scrap fabric, too. It looked out of date. Two pieces were even a print, and not the same print either. I wondered if this was a common technique and what you thought of it. It had certainly been successful. I loved that blouse and was hoping to harvest pattern pieces from it to make a replacement. What do you think?
I read online that quilting cotton can be used as sew-on interfacing in a pinch, so I used some I had lying around in the fly in a pair of flannel pj pants. It turned out much too stiff and cardboard-y…next time I’ll use fusible or even just the pattern fabric like people are saying here in the comments!
Hi, great video thanks. I am sewing with a satin like polyester. My friend said I will need to use stabaliser tape on all seams. I'm not following a pattern as such just one I made up. So my question is which is the best stabiliser to use. I will apparently use it on all seams. Any advice would be most welcome.💟
Thank you so much for this "just in time" video topic. I couldn't buy my usual slotted waistband interfacing in time for a project I'm working on (linen pants) and was planning on regular fusible interfacing. But...Which one?! Thanks for these great tips that answered my questions.
I "discovered" a trick for tear away/washable interfacing for knit material. When I first started working with it I had issues with starting the seam. I had to start too far away from the edge for my liking so it wouldn't get all wadded up in the feed dogs. I had some of the interfacing laying around for embroidery. So I cut a piece about 1.5x .5ish inches and placed the material to the bottom of it. I started on the interfacing and just continued on. Made it so much less frustrating. The wash away is easier than the tear away cuz you don't have to worry about picking it out of the stitches.
I rarely use interfacing. I have never been thrilled with how it looks. I made a few vintage dresses with fabric and patterns from the ‘40’s. They buttoned down the front so I needed some structure, but I didn’t want it to be too stiff, so I ended up using batiste.
Thank you so much for this video!!!!!Interfacing has been driving me insane, because every Web page about it just goes "Oh your pattern will tell you what you need" which is a bit useless when I'm the one making the pattern 😩 I actually think I understand it now (hopefully!)
Speaking of glued interfacting, I've had mine come apart from the fabric over time from washings. So in that way I prefer sew in even though it's usually thicker than the fusible interfacing. It was the cheap thin stuff, polyester probably, definatly not cotton.
If I may. Not quite. Horsehair is also called tailor's canvas. It literally has horse hair in it to give it rigidity. It is the "workhorse" of tailoring molding the garment to the body shape. It is usely greige color with woven fiber visible. Buckram is a very stiff uniform canvas, natural or not, made for other types of uses like upholstery, curtain, bags, things. 🙂
Really good videos thank you. New to sewing. Do you cut interfacing to the size of pattern pieces and stitch through layers or slightly smaller than the facing piece? Mine didn’t look so neat.
I have an old worn-out blouse. It was made of cotton seersucker. It is thin from wear. I wanted to make a new blouse from it, so I picked apart all the seams. I know that this step may have been unnecessary, but I oddly found it relaxing and satisfying. I plan on starching it to stiffen it, but I thought about using interfacing instead. I am planning on tracing the pieces to make a new pattern and need to make it easier to work with. What type of interfacing would you recommend? I don't plan on reusing the fabric other than use as a pattern for a different garment.
Thanks Evelyn for those hints regarding Interfacing and stabilising and giving structure to garments. I am one wanting to know which one for all sewing that I do. Went along to Spotlight and they seem to be having sales continuously lately so went there this week to stock up for future makes. Some of the Birch brands will tell you what they are used for in garment type of sewing but interfacing and stabilising ones you get on the roll don't unless the person who is at the service desk knows these enquiries you are asking. So those are the questions I wonder as I don't fully understand which ones for different types of jobs I do. I like making skirts and t'shirts but also make eg, quilts or bag making plus making pillow slips for my grandson as my son and his wife bought a pillow and there was no slips for them to buy. So Mum can you make one for us and so managed to make two and had to study a pillow slip I have for standard pillows but this one has to be 30cm x 40cm. Finally yesterday after trial and error I worked it out. Have been looking at different YT videos but not exactly how I wanted to make them. 🙂
Also, I couldn’t get the interfacing to attach. Tried different heat settings and press cloth. Moisture or no moisture. Finally grabbed my white butcher paper I use for my Cricut and it worked the best. Made sure to adjust the heat setting and test.
Thanks for this helpful video. I'm a pretty experienced sewist, so I use interfacing quite often, but there are so many types and weights out there. I would really like to learn how to properly stitch sew-in interfacing. Am I relying on the seams to hold it in place, or does it get tacked down with a whipstitch or the like? Hope you are doing well
Been searching for your video on sewing stretchy material like spandex or jersey. Pls teach us how to sew stretchy materials. Thank you! From your new sewing student!
Fusibles suck, especially for things that are washable or worn often - it can get unstuck and bunched up inside. Not only can the glue leak trough fabric during application but also later during ironing. It's just as cheap to use cotton muslin and in higher end or more structured garments - linen canvas, beetled linen or horsehair canvas like hymo. The only synthetic I use is crin for hem stiffening, transparent knit seam tape/hem tape and two- sided 'interfacing" to fuse two fabrics together as an experiment (and I strengthen it with adhesive and tiny stitches if possible and never ever wash it in machine). I would say fusible is more error-prone than sewn in as the second you can always remove and re-stitch. I've used everything from pieced remains of old muslim, second hand sheets and old curtains. Cotton muslin can be bought for very little, good quality linen canvas and plain organza in bulk- still under 10 usd per yard, horsehair canvases are more expensive, but it's not like they are used that often. Good interfacing and interlining can make any clothing item look a lot more expensive!
A caveat: non-woven interfacing is synthetic and if your main fabric can handle a hot iron (i.e. cotton), that doesn't mean your interfacing can. I made this mistake with a piece of sew-in interfacing I was using in a waistband. I pressed it at the same temperature I had been pressing the whole garment... and melted the interfacing. Thankfully, it was easily removed and redone.
I’ve definitely done that before!
I made the same mistake, but worse, i melted the main fabric :) it was so plastic, the interfacing would not stick to it...
This is why I specifically buy woven interfacing
I bought sew-in interfacing but didn’t realize I’d bought 100% polyester, oops. At least I’d seen beforehand that you have to be careful about using heat so I’m being mindful about which projects I use it for! But also good to know, I wondered what would happen if I ironed it. Hadn’t tested it yet.
Samesies
While taking apart men's shirts, I learned that the best interfacing to use is simply more of the very same fabric that the shirt is made from. Some of the iron in interfacing glues can bleed through and show on the right side of the fabric. They look a lot like grease stains.
I’ve yet to use interfacing, I use the same fabric I am working with to stabilize my projects.
How do you sew it in? The same as sewing non-fusible interfacing?
Thankyou for this. I was thinking perhaps I don't have to buy interfacing for my first project.
@@sibyllolson3237 I sew at 3/8 with a longer stitch around each piece.
I also often use the same fabric, or scrap calico, which I've always got in bulk.
When I learned to sew (in the mid-1970s), interfacing was something you cut out of the same fabric you were using for the garment, then sewed it in with the same seam allowance (5/8 inch) and hand stitched the other edge down. (I'm thinking mostly of necklines.) I stopped sewing garments years ago but have been encouraged and inspired to start making my own garments again, largely because of your channel, @Evelyn, and another I subscribe to. I appreciate your tutorials so much!
I share your story, Timeline, stropped, wanting to restart. I sewed all my clothing at one time. One difference, I did use interfacing using the different sew in weights.
1870 or 1970... ❤️
This tipe will help me save money and keep thangs looking nice and sharp. THANK YOU
I’m a very beginner sewer and trying to understand what you mean. Do you mean as you’re sewing your seam allowance, you just add this extra cut of fabric on top and stitch it down to the seam allowance as well? And then with the other edge, if you stitch it down (hand or otherwise), wouldn’t you see the stitches from the right side of the garment?
That's how my mom did it too...she has been sewing since the 60s
This was really a big help. I am 71 and started sewing in grade school. Loved to sew but back then I got so intimidated by interfacing and lining clothes. I stopped for many years and now back to it. The old fear is still here but with these educational videos I hope to eliminate that fear. Thank you
Hi Evelyn, I would recommend using a non-stick pressing cloth so you can use the correct heat to activate the glue on fusible nonwoven interfacing and spraying the interfacing with water to also increase the bonding and stop bubbling. It really works. 🙂💐
The sewing show I used to watch called the Sewing Connection with Shirley Adams which is now on RUclips (yes I’m excited). Anyway she used to say interfacing was part of the thinking part of the project. She would take scraps of the fabric iron on different interfacing to see how it interacts. That way you know before you start if it’s going to be what you want.
Great tip!
I loved her show! I was honored to take a sewing class from her at an American Sewing Guild conference. She was a sweet lady.
@@dale3404 wow you’re so lucky. I’m sure it was wonderful. Between her show and my kids complete faith that I could make or fix everything I managed. Oh and Sewing with Nancy! Another wonderful teacher.
@@robintheparttimesewer6798My children and my grandchildren have the same undying faith in my abilities. Nancy was a wonderful teacher, wasn’t she? I miss her, still watch her shows and use her books.
@@dale3404 yes she was. I still use her books as well. Haven’t seen her show in years. I miss them both though it’s great to have this online community. It’s always nice to have have new teachers and a place to share our ideas.
Hello from Greece, l love watching your channel. I just wanted to say that you didn't mention that woven interfacing needs to be cut on grain like actual fabric unlike non woven. I say this because it's important for the outcome. Oh and thanks for the hair interfacing comment, l was about to add some in my stash
The biggest game-changer for me was discovering fusible woven cotton interfacing! I basically don't use polyester, so have my iron set to hot (three dots) as a default. I've melted a LOT of synthetic interfacing! Flatlining with firm wovens is also excellent for adding structure but not cardboard :)
For anyone at least in North America (I don't know if the rest of the world has access to this brand) The brand Pellon has an amazing range of different interfacing materials including both a fusible and non-fusible hair canvas.
I concur
Thanks for the recommendation. I’ll keep an eye out for it
Yes:) they can be found at any Joann Fabric store.
I don’t have money to buy interfacing so in the past when it’s been required, I just use the same fabric or a lighter fabric as a facing . For the next thing I want to make, it will require facing so this video came at the best time!
That’s interesting, you were resourceful. I didn’t ever think of that as an option instead I delayed sewing, this is a good idea for when the sewjo hits and the budget is low. Brilliant
Remember that facing and interfacing are different.
Woven interfacing is an eye opener. I was desperate to get the right weight and all they had was woven. I absolutely love woven interfacing now. No irons, minimal long term garment fraying and balling and no need to get the iron just right to fuse the interfacing with their glue.
Actually I'm currently working with interfacing for the first time! I've skipped it before and regretted that later...😅 But now I'm attempting to make a wool coat so I can't skip it this time. I have been watching a lot of your videos during this project and I have found them very helpful!
Greetings,
Which did you choose to. for your wool coat? I have mine cut out and questioninvwhst to be using
. Foubd this videp very infirmative. Keeping in mind what to be using, she answred me...go by the weight of the fabric that is being used.
Also, a good idea to build up our stock. So I did. Only 3 yards of each type and lightweight fusible is snatched up fast, hard to find, and pricy.
GiGi
In
Vintage
🇨🇦
In one of your videos, you talked about, I think it was called blocked interfacing. It was a revelation for me. Something I had never thought of. I'm self-taught, and always learning new things. Ever after, I love using that block method when I can!
Tailor's hair canvas is a must for coats/jackets. It has different properties depending on which way "bend", one stiffer than the other. 2 for 1
And NEVER fold your fabric directly ON the edge of the canvas, the rigid fibers will poke throught the fabric. ( Did that on a waistband, ouch,ouch...)
It also needs a specific kind of stitching . If you see a picture of a mens jacket in the making you will know what l mean. It looks kind like a big upward zig zag..the name in English fails me right now, sorry but l am Greek haha
Excellent video. Remember to keep the instructions with the leftovers for other projects.
I even use tiny left overs to mend holes in jeans for example
@@atekandi6715
Great idea, I'm guessing you are patching over the interfacing.
This video has been so helpful because it seems like no one talks about interfacing as if new sewers already know these things. Once I made some pajamas using flannel and interfaced the collar and front edge of the torso and it was as stiff as a board, obviously, I used the wrong interfacing. As a new sewer, I had no idea there were different kinds and I didn't know what kind of use with flannel. This is still a challenge for me, but I will remember what you said, "light interfacing for light fabrics". Another tip I learned was to test the interfacing on a scrap piece of fabric FIRST before I marry it with my cut-out fabric.. If it feels like cardboard, it's probably too firm for the fabric.
Love the tip on testing things first. I'm a knitter and this is what is taught a lot before working on the final piece.
My problem with the iron on is that when I sew my needle will get gummed up. I learned to cut it a smidge smaller than my actual piece to allow for the hems to not be sewn through the "sticky adhesive". Don't know if it's the proper way, but it works.
To store various kinds of interfacing that are not on the bolt, either fold interfacing and instructions and place in a large clear ziplock bag- or if the instructions are printed on a plastic sheet and you have a lot of the instructions - just fold the instructions and sew up the two sides to create a pocket - then put the interfacing inside. This way you always have the appropriate instructions and information as to weight, etc.
Great video thank you, as a beginner I was definitely scratching my head about this subject. Anther more in depth video to expand further would be awesome. I love your channel so much 🙏🏻
Likely the more nitty gritty details are part of what she teaches at her "Vintage Sewing School".
This came at a perfect time as I’m planning on going to a fabric store next week to get some interfacing for the first time! I knew what it was used for but not that it came in different thickness/weights so definitely learned something new before I go to the store!
This was helpful! I've been sewing for a long time, but never cared about interfacing until now lol. Because I got into making structured clothing, like vests, bags and jackets. But for my first such project about a year ago I used upholstery fabric (for a vest) which was rigid yet flexible enough in itself to not need any interfacing. But now I'm working on a project of making a matching vest and skirt, and both will need some interfacing for the collar on the vest and the waistband and belt for the skirt. Because this time I'm using a light/medium weight linen blend fabric for a more summer friendly style.
I actually asked for advice about that in the local sewing supply store, and got a black, non-woven interfacing with glue. I'm making the garments in a dark red, slightly see-through fabric with a dark green lining, so I figured the white interfacing might show through. That's why I insisted on the black version. I had some very basic knowledge about interfacing prior to watching this video, but thought I'd sharpen up that knowledge now that I'm getting into working on that collar.
This is kind of a "spur of the moment" project so I didn't plan it a lot before hand. I just bought whatever nice enough matching fabrics I could find at the local sewing supply store, that interfacing and a matching spool of thread. Then I dug out belt buckle and buttons from my supply at home.
Awesome video. Interfacing is one of those things that really adds quality to home sewn items
SO much information overload on interfacing and especially when you’re trying to find a compatible product from another brand line (like I love Burda magazine but none of the interfacing they recommend is available here in the US and it’s so hard to figure out what would work instead!) thank you for this video!!!
A agree! The brand names are so difficult across countries!
I have the same problem the other way around: I watch a lot of costuber and they often recommend shops and brands that do not exist in Germany. Even trying to find the German name of the fabric or other material they use is a challenge, because the shop assistants in fabric shops rarely know the English words.
2:34 Stabilize
3:21 interfacing
4:06 types
7:49 using
9:02 choose
Thank you!
I suggest you to go to the topics directly. Don’t need to say too much words before explaining the topics. Thanks
Thank you for covering interfacing! This video is super helpful. I've used interfacing in the past, but I didn't really understand their differences. Now I feel much more confident selecting the interfacing that works best for my projects.
Thank you for doing this video - I usually skipped over this (and stay stitching) thinking who really needs this. Result is a poorly constructed garment...I am learning...
As an experienced sewer, I have tried them all. I rarely use fusible interfacings on expensive fabrics and I use it sparingly on any and all fabrics. I’ve had some seemingly nice interfacings turn stiffer after being washed and/or change texture or show through. Sew-in interfacings are more reliable. Batiste is a wonderful lightweight interfacing. I buy 5 yards of black and white to keep on hand. I use garment scraps in a similar color for medium weight interfacing. I keep some purchased sew in interfacing in case I cannot find a suitable scrap.
Thank you so much for this information! I regularly use fusible tricot interfacing for stabilizing linen and taffeta/dupioni silk for use in home decor (pillows) and church projects (banners, stoles, etc) It comes in 60" and I apply it to the whole cloth to give it more heft and reduce the amount of wrinkling. It's lightweight, holds really well and doesn't bubble up like non-woven sometimes can
I have started sewing for stress relief. Its fantastic 😍... With that being said, i now am getting orders for purses and wallets. I have subscribed to u because u TEACH me what is what and how to use it properly. I love love love u. Please continue to teach me ❤
I have heavy weight fluffy interfacing for making hats, only it’s helpful for pillbox hats and mulling in bonnets. I sometimes use it in head scarfs for cancer patients, but fleece and soft flannel is better. I follow Nicole Rudolph and she has a whole video on tailoring and supplies. Burnley and Trowbridge have a fantastic beatled linen which is stiff and paper thin great for building under structures in historical projects. I’m actually a bit terrible about interfacing, but I’m trying to do better. Search for tailor canvas for hair canvas, for collars that need more structure it’s a beautiful thing. Amazon has it in the US.
I’m babbling about sourcing but I have gone down the rabbit hole a few times.
Would you do a follow up video on the names of woven interfacing fabric like crinoline (fabric), tarlatan, organza, etc.?
Interfacing or stabilizing lycra or spandex for dance costumes is the bane of my existence.
Whisper weft is beautiful to use, also Shapewell for those special event garments where you need structure underneath. The right interfacing makes a huge difference, collars and cuffs, front placket etc.
I have an ironing press and rough cut my facing pieces, fuse interfacing to them and then pin the pattern piece Back on and carefully cut out facing and transfer markings. With soft shifting fabrics this method really helps get accurate facings.
Oh BLESS YOU DEAR! You saved me. I just watched a wonderful video from someone else about how to repair my son's ripped shirt. But I had no idea what fusible interfacing was 🙄🥺🥺🥺
And then you watch more videos trying to figure out what it is 🤔and people just throw that term around like we're all supposed to know what it is lol
Thank you, another very informative video. Wish I had seen before. Made a blouse and wish I had used a light weight instead of medium. For a bow tie I didn’t have the thin wool interfacing and used one layer medium (fused only one side) and cut small end pieces to fuse the other side of the fabric for better stitching of the ends. It worked. Thank you.
I have been taught that interfacing needs to be preshrunk. Soak it it hottest tap water until it cools, then line dry. This definitely reduces bubbling, especially with the non woven interfacing. Alternatively, when you are applying the interfacing to your garment piece, hover the iron over it and give it a shot of steam; it will draw up a little bit. Then, fuse it into place, using steam and pressure, and possibly a press cloth. Let it cool before proceeding. Hope this helps! I love your tips!
Thank you so much for this tutorial. I did not realize that there were so may types. I will have to look for the natural hair type.
This is so helpful Evelyn! I’m new to sewing and coming across lots of terms and things I’m not familiar with, thank you for making it so much less intimidating! 🥳
Hello Evelyn,
One thing I was hoping you'd cover in this video is which weight interfacing is best to use in/on purses and wallets ? TYSM for sharing this video with us. Will watch it several times, again and again, because it's so informative and useful to me. Take care, and I hope you're feeling better with going through chemo. Prayers are being sent your way 🙏🙏🙏 !!!
Oh my goodness thank you so much for making this video! I'm getting into machine embroidering and videos mention these things but like you said, I get to the store and have no clue what I'm looking at! Now I do! Thank you!! 😊
My fashion Professor used the exact same fabric for interfacing. It seemed to work real well.
hate crispy interfacing with a passion. also you can use fabric scraps as sew in interfacing if it matches weight, good way to use up old material but make sure it is a similar fibre and won't show through
Over 20 years ago I scored a roll of fusible interfacing at a garage sale, never seen anything the same since. It’s two different weights along the yardage,one side light and other half medium weight. Cream colour, I have used it for block fusing a jacket front, collars, cuffs, it’s just brilliant. And of course only paid $10 for the lot, bargain. And still have a few metres left
Oh my! I sooo needed this video. I am starting a dress for my daughter and they mentioned interfacing and I honestly wasn't sure what it was. I was going to just make a double copy of my fabric as a solution but now i feel ready to hit the store and get some to begin this project properly. Thanks so much!
learning the weights of them years ago. that said decades ago before i knew what it was i literally just went through resuse items i had and thats how i interfaced items i was making
I knew about interfacing before I started clothing repairs and clothing sewing, but it was only from the point of view of a quilter, since that is the kind of sewing my stepmom does. My first time buying interfacing by myself, I realized how little I actually knew and ended up getting a variety of the prepackaged ones 😅 I figured out what I needed when I got back to my sewing, but now I am set for interfacing for at least a little while
I apply the fusible interfacing to the fabric first then cut out the pieces . Easy peasy. Any shrinkage will already have taken place so good to go. I don’t do for coats or delicate fabrics…I sew these by hand.
I'm definitely on a fusible interfacing journey, not yet in a fusible interfacing happy place! The big issue is that the interfacing just separates from the fabric, the first time I wash the garment. It's tempting to blame the interfacing, but I suspect that the glue's still holding, and it's just pulled away a few surface fibres from the fabric. One of these days, I ought to test that idea by trying to re-fuse a piece that's peeled away.
Meanwhile, I just avoid the problem by using sew-in.
Have you tried letting gravity help? Place your fabric on your ironing board wrong side UP, then place your fusible interfacing glue-side DOWN (to help the glue melt into the fabric to bond) and a pressing cloth on top (to avoid the interfacing getting stuck to your iron plate). When ironing; just press, lift, move to the next section and press; don't glide the iron around or it won't attach evenly.
@@LynHannan Thanks, and yes, I already do those things*. I get a good firm glue bond, with gravity and plenty of heat, but it doesn't last. The prime suspect is the fibre pull-away, but another possibility is that my tumble dryer's heat is too much for the glue on the cheap interfacing. I've recently bought some nicer fusible interfacing, and will see if that fares any better.
*(Not the pressing cloth part. I live dangerously, but my iron has survived so far!)
I have used a fusible on top of a sew-in interfacing for a bag I made. I cut the heavy weight sew-in minus the seam allowance and the lightweight fusible the whole size and fused it together and it worked out great!
You lessons are THE BEST!! I have learned so much from you. Thank you!!!!!!
This video was very informative ❤ I'm on my 2nd sewing class & I wrote this word down but forgot what it meant. I really enjoy your video❤️
There are just so many different interfacing and this video really helped me. It cN be so confusing when you're just learning and you go to purchase interfacing. Makes you wonder if it's that important and yes it is.
Thrilled to learn about you trick for using 2 types in waist band areas, game changer!!!
Thank you for enlightening me on the uses and weights of interfacing. I do struggle with the iron on as it very rarely sticks to my fabric. I do have a nice linen interfacing for using with hand woven fabrics, to strengthen the edges and to stop any fraying.
Thank you so much Evelyn I really really enjoyed listening to you take us all through this topic. And I really really love ❤️ the fusible one. But I am going to try the hair canvas type you told us all about. Please stay safe and well too xxx Mags
One big thing with fusible is it's drape: I find woven allows the material to drape more naturally, whereas even finer non-woven can make it appear a bit stiff, because it doesn't behave the same as a woven.
Thank you! Recently I've been looking into sewing and your video is so helpful. Can I ask that with interfacing (and even wadding) do we still need to pre-wash like with fabrics to prevent it from shrinking? If so, how should we pre-wash different types? Many thanks!
Hi Evelyn, great Video. Hoping that your recovery goes well and I will see you in your online classes. I've got my new sewing machine and did some test drive 😊
Regards from a small Greek island.
Awesome video as always❤. I need a sequel just about brims and waistbands.... Because guess who used 2 layers of horsehair in the same direction on a brim and had it collapse? 😂
Thank you! Thank you so much for saying it clearly and with compassion! This dispelled hours of confused and frustrated mumbling to myself.
LOVE YOU CHANEL and the coments you get back, helps a ton.
Love this video I needed this. Can anyone tell me what is "hair stay" interfacing? Is there another name for it. I've watched sewing tutorials and the African tailors are using it for bustiers and corsets.
This was very helpful thank you. I’m curious about the comments saying to use the same fabric and I might try that unless you think there is a significant downside? Sounds like sometimes sew- in interfacing might be less of a hassle.
Thank you so much for this video I knew nothing about interfacing until now ,you really helped me.😅
Thankyou Evelyn you’ve helped me better understand interfacings 😊🎉
I've followed you for years- why haven't I watched this one earlier? Thanks Evelyn, great video, as per usual...but Im sewing a binding while I wtch, so I'll watch it again...and again.. ;-)
Great lesson on interfacings.
Evelyn, we all miss you so much. Hope you get to read the comments we leave you. We are glad to hear your chemo is going well albeit it is taking a little longer than the doctors thought it would. I know gals that could not finish their chemo. You at least are able to hang in there. I've never gone thru it but, I know it has to be hard. Keep your heart up, THERE WILL BE AN END TO THE TREATMENT. Then you can get on with your wonderful life. See you soon.
Thank you for your great tutorial.
I would like to ask you what should I use for sewing cushion covers?
My absolute first experience with interfacing: I managed to buy the right thing by asking in a proper sewing shop, but it was horribly bulky. The paper pattern just said "cut two fabric, cut two interfacing" so that's what I did! I didn't understand that you need to cut it out without seam allowance...
Thank you for this video it was really helpful as i had no idea the difference of woven and non woven so thank you for your awsom exsplantion
I had some woven fusable interfacing sitting in my stash and I never knew what it was before! I get a lot of fabrics secondhand from people who need to declutter their sewing supplies so I don't always fully understand everything I have-
I would appreciate a list of brand names and the names of the individual interfacings and their uses to take with me on the hunt. Spotlight is my only go to for buying dressmaking supplies. They carry a range but I have very little idea of what I’m buying. Knowledge is power! My sewing results will be better overall I’m sure. I’m a quilter first and now I’m trying to learn to do basic sewing.
Don't get me started on the bubbling/puckering pellon interfacing. Ugh! I've had success with Heat n Bond interfacing, but using sewn in interfacing has me intrigued. Thanks for another great video!
Thank you for this video, it's really helpful!
I tried to apply stiff interfacing when making small pouches or bags to keep them in shape, but when the sewn fabrics were turned over to the right side, it always results in wrinkles from turning the stiff interfacing. Should I pick another interfacing? Thanks
Thanks for the video. First question: How would you give structure to collar in knitwear? There are some great 1920's men's sweater with large collars. Second question: I have seen the recommendation to cover the edges of some very structured interfacings with a sewn on band. Otherwise, the hard edge might hurt the fabric. Any experience with that?
Can you please make a vid on how to create that beautiful short jacket. It is really attractive. Did you create the pattern and the style and how did you go about choosing the fabric. The end product, the style, shape, fabric...over all look is very cute. Can you share with us your thought process.
Once I took apart a store-bought blouse that I had loved and hoped to reproduce. I was surprised to find fabric where I expected to find interfacing. In the button band and collar, for example. It appeared to be scrap fabric, too. It looked out of date. Two pieces were even a print, and not the same print either. I wondered if this was a common technique and what you thought of it. It had certainly been successful. I loved that blouse and was hoping to harvest pattern pieces from it to make a replacement. What do you think?
I read online that quilting cotton can be used as sew-on interfacing in a pinch, so I used some I had lying around in the fly in a pair of flannel pj pants. It turned out much too stiff and cardboard-y…next time I’ll use fusible or even just the pattern fabric like people are saying here in the comments!
Hi, great video thanks. I am sewing with a satin like polyester. My friend said I will need to use stabaliser tape on all seams. I'm not following a pattern as such just one I made up. So my question is which is the best stabiliser to use. I will apparently use it on all seams. Any advice would be most welcome.💟
Thank you so much for this "just in time" video topic. I couldn't buy my usual slotted waistband interfacing in time for a project I'm working on (linen pants) and was planning on regular fusible interfacing. But...Which one?! Thanks for these great tips that answered my questions.
I "discovered" a trick for tear away/washable interfacing for knit material. When I first started working with it I had issues with starting the seam. I had to start too far away from the edge for my liking so it wouldn't get all wadded up in the feed dogs. I had some of the interfacing laying around for embroidery. So I cut a piece about 1.5x .5ish inches and placed the material to the bottom of it. I started on the interfacing and just continued on. Made it so much less frustrating. The wash away is easier than the tear away cuz you don't have to worry about picking it out of the stitches.
I think that you might mean stabilizer. Interfacing is never wash away. It is intended to last as long as the garment.
@@chriswatson1698 I'm sure you are right. I'm notorious for mixing up terms.
I rarely use interfacing. I have never been thrilled with how it looks. I made a few vintage dresses with fabric and patterns from the ‘40’s. They buttoned down the front so I needed some structure, but I didn’t want it to be too stiff, so I ended up using batiste.
Thank you so much for this video!!!!!Interfacing has been driving me insane, because every Web page about it just goes "Oh your pattern will tell you what you need" which is a bit useless when I'm the one making the pattern 😩 I actually think I understand it now (hopefully!)
Speaking of glued interfacting, I've had mine come apart from the fabric over time from washings. So in that way I prefer sew in even though it's usually thicker than the fusible interfacing. It was the cheap thin stuff, polyester probably, definatly not cotton.
What you call "horsehair" is what we call "buckram" in the US (I think). Great video as always!
If I may. Not quite. Horsehair is also called tailor's canvas. It literally has horse hair in it to give it rigidity. It is the "workhorse" of tailoring molding the garment to the body shape. It is usely greige color with woven fiber visible. Buckram is a very stiff uniform canvas, natural or not, made for other types of uses like upholstery, curtain, bags, things. 🙂
This was so helpful! Thanks! My biggest challenge was to know which one to use.
Really good videos thank you. New to sewing. Do you cut interfacing to the size of pattern pieces and stitch through layers or slightly smaller than the facing piece? Mine didn’t look so neat.
Thank you for the explanation and information. This helps a lot.
Thank you so much for your videos. They're making so much sense. 😃
Very good interesting video, I have always been a sewer but you can always learn more along the way. 😊
I have an old worn-out blouse. It was made of cotton seersucker. It is thin from wear. I wanted to make a new blouse from it, so I picked apart all the seams. I know that this step may have been unnecessary, but I oddly found it relaxing and satisfying.
I plan on starching it to stiffen it, but I thought about using interfacing instead.
I am planning on tracing the pieces to make a new pattern and need to make it easier to work with.
What type of interfacing would you recommend? I don't plan on reusing the fabric other than use as a pattern for a different garment.
Thanks Evelyn for those hints regarding Interfacing and stabilising and giving structure to garments. I am one wanting to know which one for all sewing that I do. Went along to Spotlight and they seem to be having sales continuously lately so went there this week to stock up for future makes. Some of the Birch brands will tell you what they are used for in garment type of sewing but interfacing and stabilising ones you get on the roll don't unless the person who is at the service desk knows these enquiries you are asking. So those are the questions I wonder as I don't fully understand which ones for different types of jobs I do. I like making skirts and t'shirts but also make eg, quilts or bag making plus making pillow slips for my grandson as my son and his wife bought a pillow and there was no slips for them to buy. So Mum can you make one for us and so managed to make two and had to study a pillow slip I have for standard pillows but this one has to be 30cm x 40cm. Finally yesterday after trial and error I worked it out. Have been looking at different YT videos but not exactly how I wanted to make them. 🙂
Black interfacing.......I need to investigate into some of this lol great video thanks. Think I'll watch a few times to remember that info
My favorite, because I love to create, is Wonder Under!
Also, I couldn’t get the interfacing to attach. Tried different heat settings and press cloth. Moisture or no moisture. Finally grabbed my white butcher paper I use for my Cricut and it worked the best. Made sure to adjust the heat setting and test.
Thanks for this helpful video. I'm a pretty experienced sewist, so I use interfacing quite often, but there are so many types and weights out there. I would really like to learn how to properly stitch sew-in interfacing. Am I relying on the seams to hold it in place, or does it get tacked down with a whipstitch or the like? Hope you are doing well
Oh man! What a great video.
Thank you so so much!!!!!
Thank you, Evelyn! Great information and a great teacher.
Been searching for your video on sewing stretchy material like
spandex or jersey. Pls teach us how to sew stretchy materials.
Thank you! From your new sewing student!
Fusibles suck, especially for things that are washable or worn often - it can get unstuck and bunched up inside. Not only can the glue leak trough fabric during application but also later during ironing. It's just as cheap to use cotton muslin and in higher end or more structured garments - linen canvas, beetled linen or horsehair canvas like hymo. The only synthetic I use is crin for hem stiffening, transparent knit seam tape/hem tape and two- sided 'interfacing" to fuse two fabrics together as an experiment (and I strengthen it with adhesive and tiny stitches if possible and never ever wash it in machine). I would say fusible is more error-prone than sewn in as the second you can always remove and re-stitch. I've used everything from pieced remains of old muslim, second hand sheets and old curtains. Cotton muslin can be bought for very little, good quality linen canvas and plain organza in bulk- still under 10 usd per yard, horsehair canvases are more expensive, but it's not like they are used that often. Good interfacing and interlining can make any clothing item look a lot more expensive!