Gen4 (2012+) Honda CRV brake fluid flush (1 person method)
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2016
- As of 1/24/22: 638 likes, 32 dislikes
This video shows the process for flushing the brake fluid on a 4th generation Honda CR-V (2012+). Shown in the video is a 2013 EX AWD model, but I believe the process should be identical for all the trim levels within this generation.
You should use only DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluid, not DOT5. DOT4 will have a higher dry boiling point, but in normal operation (i.e. no towing or big mountain descents) there should be no observable difference between DOT3 and DOT4. Conventional wisdom says that the boiling point of DOT4 fluid will fall more quickly for the same amount of moisture absorbed (brake fluid is highly hygroscopic), so I prefer DOT3 in my vehicles with a reasonable service interval (~2 years, independent of mielage).
The use of Honda brake fluid is not necessary in this case. Prestone and Valvoline fluids (or whatever else is available) will work just fine here.
The process shown here is called the 1-person method, and does not require the use of any specialized tools. I prefer using this method even with 2 people, as it is easier and takes less time.
If you want to change your rear pads at the same time, I also have a video for that:
• Honda CRV rear brake p...
Hope you find this video helpful, happy wrenching!
The procedure Mr. Wong shows in this video really does work perfectly . More. I know people that just open the bleeder and let the air come out of the line without even touch the break pedal till the fluid comes out without air bubbles, then close the valve and done. Check it out
One thing I would of done different is add some brake fluid to the empty water bottle to start so it doesn’t pull in air, never use a empty bottle for a one man bleeding, peace and God Bless
InstaBlaster.
I was also told this, but why start with some brake fluid in the bottom of the bottle when the hose has air in it anyways when you start? Thx. Maybe to create a little extra resistance so the air isn't easily pulled in?
Need to add thread tape to bleeder screw sucking air around the threads
Thank you Tim for great tutorials. I never done it before and after watching your video fluched break fluid on my 2015 crv which should be done 2 years ago.
Ah ha! I just finished this!
Thanks for every details! I understood when I start follow your instructions.
1/4 turn was too much for me. Just little bit of unscrew bleeder valve and when it start dripping, that was the perfect point. At this much of valve open, fluid was not going back into bleeder valve but dripping when brake pumping!! Thnaks alot!
Nicely done Tim, took wife's Pilot In just for oil change and they wanted over 100 dollars to do brake fluid flush. Great video keep it up! Btw I will be doing brake fluid flush myself.
Excellent job. Wish I had You Tube when I was younger!
I'm surprised you didn't use like a small hanger/hook/bungee to put the tubing a little more vertical or elevated near the brake nipple. That way, you have fluid in the line and you can be more assured there is no air near the nipple that can be pulled back as you release the brake pedal. Meaning, have maybe 3-4in of brake fluid in the line near the nipple (unless you put speed bleeders). It was hard to see in your video if the tube near the nipple had actual fluid, or was empty. Having a elevated tube near the nipple would allow fluid to stay and you and just lower it to get the fluid to flow down before dislodging the tube from the nipple.
Even let's say no air got into the system, it'd still be good practice to bleed.
Wonderful, clear, detailed video!
Just what I was looking for, great video !
Nice tutorial. I'm going to attempt this method towards my '15 Honda Fit thank you!
Just did mine today on my 2015 CRV. Also great time to rotate the tires. I flushed TWO 32oz bottles of Dot 3 through the lines and it still didn't come out clear but it was a LOT better than it was which was a murky greenish brown.
Nice clear and complete video. I would add to NOT press the brake pedal all the way to floor, just half way or you might blow the seal on the master brake cylinder.
Great point, I did not mention that in the video. I usually put a piece of 2x4 or the tip of a sneaker under the brake pedal so that you can't accidentally depress it all the way. For those unfamiliar with the reasoning - it's so that the piston in the master cylinder does not extend past the normal range of travel and into an area of the bore that has not been honed smooth.
I watched several other videos ( including A1 Auto) but all of them press brake pedal all the way. I am confused.
I did some further looking and found that you are right. Specially on old vehicles where the master brake cylinder is on its way out. Thank you for mentioning it here.
Can I add two more tips? 1: make sure NOT to drain out the reservoir. Keep adding. 2: there are hoses you can buy that only bleed out 1 direction and won’t come back the other way. It really helps. Thanks, your video was awesome
Can you add a link for the specific hose you're speaking of?
Excellent Video, thanks.
Thank you very much for posting this detailed video. It really helped me. :)
Thanks for sharing. Very helpful and clearly explain.
Many years ago I tried this method and got air in the brake system. The reason for that was is that when pumping the brakes the air got back in around the bleeder screw tiny gaps. Had to use a two-man method to purge the air from the system. I then switched to (still one man method) using a vacuum pump. Did not have to utilize a two-man method after that.
The last time I did a 2015 CRV brake bleed, I used the 2 person method. NEVER AGAIN. Too slow and cumbersome. I just did the 1-person method and it was a peice of cake. Pushed 2 QUARTS of Dot 3 thru my just-purchased 2013 CRV brake system until it was clear because I don't think it was ever done. 3 tips: 1)Put some used fluid you removed from the master cylinder into the bottle and submerge the end of the tube into it. 2)Open the valves NOT MORE than a 1/4 turn and pump the brake pedal gently and stop before the pedal bottoms out. (The less you open the valve, the longer it will take to pump the brake pedal.) 3)When done, the brake should feel overly firm before starting the car, but after starting, the pedal will sink to the floor. Gently pump up the pedal a few times before putting into gear.
Very good jub.You also neded to bled the clutch
I appreciate Mr. Wong making such an informative video. However, as K. Kennyson said,just opening the bleeder fitting and then pumping the brakes will introduce air into the line.(As the pedal moves back and forth). Unless you have a bleeder kit with a check valve, it will take two people. Connect the drain line, have an assistant pump the brakes several times, HOLD pedal pressure, then open the bleeder fitting. Allow the pedal to travel to the floor. HOLD pedal pressure. Now close the bleed fitting and release pedal. Repeat procedure until all bubbles are no longer seen in drain line, or all new fluid introduced. This will prevent air introduction into the calipers. Air in the line = spongy brakes.Also, just me personally, but using liquid cleaner on the fitting makes a mess. Just remove dust cap, and wipe dirt off of fitting with a clean cloth so it is not introduced into the system.Bleeding can be accomplished wheels on, but involves a lot of crawling under the vehicle.Of course, the bleed fitting will be tougher to spot and get a 10 mm box end wrench on it. But It is a lot of work to jack up four wheels.
Hi Gary Tromer, I appreciate the constructive feedback. I am familiar with the process you describe. It is as effective as the method shown in the video, if not a bit more cumbersome. Have you tried the "one person method" before? I think you will be surprised to find that if you don't open the bleeder valve excessively (about 1/4 turn is usually right), and have a piece of tubing secure snugly over the nipple, there will be no air ingress as you release the brake pedal. The evidence of this is when you press the brake pedal, there will be no air bubbles coming out. Where this fails is if you open the bleeder valve a full turn or more, then air can be introduced into the brake lines through the threads on the bleeder valve.
Never allow pedal to go all the way to the floor unless you wanna replace a master cylinder too.
@@timwong3532 Interesting response to Gary. Makes me wonder if both of you are right. All of your answers make sense but so are Gary's. Your take on that will be appreciated.
@Tim Wong
This has to be the most professional, clear video/audio, and well explained CRV break fluid change video I have seen by far on RUclips. Well done man.
Question: I have CRV 2008 automatic 2WD. I dont drive much. Its 2008. Is process the same you think?
1. Is the order same left front right front and then back as you described in this video for 2008 2WD EX CRV?
2. Does the nut require no Torque? How do you determine how tight it needs to be when tightening it back on?
3. Do you recommend using air compressor to remove and reinstall tires, I usually do my tire rotation at time shop. I believe they suggest 100 lb/ft for Honda tires. This question is for reference since I dont know much about it.
Hey Sam, thanks for the kind words brother!
Yes, the process should be nearly identical for your '08.
1. I can't say for certain what the "proper" order should be - please consult your manual or look it up on the forums. In my experience there is little consequence if you don't follow the exact order so long as you don't leave any air in the lines.
2. If you're doing it exactly by the book, you should grab a 1/4" torque wrench and torque to spec. I've never done this, just gone by feel. Doesn't need to be super tight, just tight enough to not cause leaks.
3. Shops use air impacts to remove and replace wheels all the time. I perfer breaking loose with a tire iron or breaker bar, and then using my impact to get it the rest of the way off. Same for reinstalling, except you should use a torque wrench to finish off. I've always torqued my Hondas to 80 ft-lbs, not sure what the actual OEM recommendation is.
Happy wrenching!
@@timwong3532 Man ! I can believe you reply to most of the people asking questions. I like people like you. Great video BTW. I own same vehicle and your video helps a lot. Thanks for posting 👍
So helpful thank you
Great video!Does your CRV have ABS? did you deactivate ABS before doing the fluid change? Some says it might bring the ABS check light after if it is not deactivated before doing the fluid change. Thanks
Great vid. Thank you
What is the quantity of brake fluid required to do the brake bleed/flush on a Honda? I'm also considering doing the same - one person on my Honda which is 3 yrs old with 34,000kms. I plan to use Bosch DOT3 Plus for the purpose.
Do u know the bleeding sequence of crv 17. Thanks nice video
I ended up using the Honda OEM brake fluid. According to the owner's manual, that's what it said. idk just for my safe of mind
Can't go wrong with that 👌
How would you test to make sure there is not air bubbles after the bleeding is completed?
*When taking off the cap from the master cylinder, how can we tell if the fluid is fine or if it has degraded to where its boiling point has been lowered to that of water?*
We have a 2016 Honda CRV AWD. I've never changed the brake fluid.
Is it possible that in these 6 years, the fluid has degraded to where now, it's "boiling" point is lower, which, I assume, COULD cause pressure to build up, causing the calipers to squeeze the pad and cause rotor heat buildup while normal driving?
Should I perhaps do a flush? Also, about how much fluid does the entire system take?
Should you put the cap back on after topping up and prior to pumping the brakes?
Nice video :-). Thank you.
Could you tell us why you begin with the front left brake and not with the rear right as usual on other cars?
hi tim, I'm trying to flush my honda crv. But. I'm trying to press my brake pedal is hard. Is the fluid clogged on?
I would have the drain bottle elevated so brake fluid goes up first from the bleed screw then into bottle
Would you advice for a brake fluid change vs a fluid flush when copper leaves are beyond 300? I got a 2011 CRV
You don’t bleed them brakes like regular brakes, are used to pump the pedal release the nipple tighten it, then pump the pedal release tighten pump and someone, do these Hondas have a one-way valve
Question. How about the bubbles? Fo you need to eliminate all the air from brake lines?
What size wrench did you use to bleed the breaks?
What the total quartz have been used for the whole job?
Great video.Question: Why you did not use Honda brake fluid as specified? How's non Honda brake fluid performs so far?
garyboyh there's just no specific reason to pay more for the Honda fluid so I didn't - just like with engine oil. The prestone DOT3 is working perfectly fine still.
When said the order did you mean front passenger, front driver, back driver back passenger?
So you start on the passenger side or driver side
Just to be sure, when using the two man method (my best friend), the tube needs to be nice and snug but you don't need to submerge, you can simply empty into a pail ? And because the tube is super snug you can still pump the pedal up and down without opening and closing the bleeder? Even though it's not submerged?
no
Hey bro when you pause to check that the reservoir is not low do you leave the pedal pressed in and hold it with like a piece of wood or something.? Or do you let the pedal make his way back up ? I want to do it the right way.I hope you can help.Thank you
You can safely let the pedal up when checking
Great Video,
One question, how many liters of brake fluid do we need?? or otherwise how many liters is the brake fluid container in your vid. Cheers
The answer was 1l.
is car in neutral or in park?
What is the pipeline side?
Even though strongly recommends you use their fluids, but you can use Prestone’s right? It’s the same for the coolant too right? I think the only Honda OEM fluid you must use is transmission, right?
Yes, ATF and differential fluid (if you have AWD) are the two fluids I would stick with Honda for sure. The others you can feel free to use the brand of your preference. I ended up using Honda coolant as well because it wasn't that much more expensive and it's difficult to get all of the old coolant out (you want to avoid mixing different types).
Tim Wong thanks. That’s what I thought.
very
good video
Would this procedure work on a 2010? Arent you introducing air into the system by open valve first then pumping?
Alan Sklar yes same procedure
No air as long as bottom of the tube is in a fluid. Air can’t go back up the tube
Is jacking up the car and removing the wheel necessary?
Not if you can just reach the bleeder valve.
I did this yesterday. The rear bleeder valves were a bit more loose and introduced air into the system. My rear left (drivers side) had tiny air bubbles and ran out of fluid before I could do any more. My brake pedal feels a tad squishy similar to how it felt prior to the flush. What do you recommend?
Perhaps start by Googling it?
@@timwong3532 It seems like there was a lot of air in the system so I reverted to the 2 person method. I had my son pump the brakes to push the air forward then opened the valve and bunch of air bubbles came out on the FL. I went around to all four corners (FL, FR, RR, RL), but no air bubbles were present. It's a bit better now. It still doesn't feel as tight as my other vehicles though.
Take note. No corrosion on the caliper bracket. Southern or southwest car. No hill Billy accent so most likely southwest
do you really have to take the wheel off AND jack the car to bleed the fluid. I'm relatively skinny hoping I can squeeze underneath
Same question. Or use wheel ramps?
When bleeding brake fluid, it's a great time to rotate the tires.
watching this video in 2020 when the rubber covers of the bleeders are long gone, and road salt has rusted the underbelly....the bleeder is definitely seized
Thanks for the video Tim. Great DIY.
I have a question though. I thought you're not supposed to release the brake pedal while the bleeder screw is open? I thought that another person is supposed to depress the brake pedal while you open the bleeder screw and this will make the brake pedal go down. And you're supposed to close the bleeder screw before the other person releases the brake pedal. I like your way because it doesn't require another person.
Thanks!
dragger168 yes, what you are describing is the traditional 2 person method. using the 1 person method shown in the video, as long as the tubing is tight and you don't see air bubbles between pumps of the pedal, then you don't need to worry about introducing air into the line.
Thanks for the reply Tim.
What do you mean "the tubing is tight"? Are you talking about where the tube connects to the bleeder nipple?
Is it important that the other end of the tubing is submerged in brake fluid? Or it's ok if it's not?
Exactly, tight where the tube fits over the bleeder nipple.
Doesn't matter if the tubing is submerged in fluid, as the return of the brake pedal will only pull the fluid "backwards" through the tube a couple inches. I.e. each cycle of the brake pedal (up + down) will push out far more fluid than it will suck it back in, so you don't need to worry about opening/closing the valve on every pedal press as you would with the conventional method.
Wow!!! Thanks a lot!
I didn't know this can be done. I've always thought that if doing the bleed manually, you need to have a second person in the driver seat to depress the brake pedal and not release it until you've closed the bleeder screw. I've always thought a one man bleeding requires the use of a pressure or vacuum systems (power bleeder or mityvac respectively).
So a 1/4" ID clear tubing will provide a tight seal on the bleeder nipple? I have a 2011 Honda CR-V and a 2008 Honda Accord.
I think I used 3/16" ID actually. it was a bit snug but I prefer it that way. should be the same for most other newer Hondas, incl your accord and CR-V
What size wrench needed for the bleeder valve
10mm
Every when or howmany miles do whe need to do that?
leonard Every 3 years but that also depends on the frequency of driving and braking
why didn't you use honda brake fluid? It says in the manual that's the one you're supposed to use
Because it's only as necessary as using Honda-branded motor oil. Use whatever fluid you are comfortable with and rest easy that regular maintenance intervals are way more important than the specific fluid you choose. FWIW, I tend to use OEM fluid for transmissions but not much else.
@@timwong3532 you're correct, i did some research and it turns out you don't need to use Honda brand unless its for transmission, power steering, or coolant.
how big is the clear tube?
Inside diameter 1/4" and 3/16" will work. In the video he use a 3/16" but said 1/4" would be better
Well, after watching this video, I am again amazed at just how easy Hondas are to perform maintenance.
I remember my old cars being a lot more of a pain to do a fluid flush.
For one thing, after changing the fluid, we'd still have to go around to each port and make sure that there was no air bubble in it by pushing through a bit more fluid.
Thanks for this.
Download manual for torque CRV 2012 ?
As a certified auto tech this is just hilarious to watch, hehehe....
All of our prep education tests that we do just tells us that Honda is no different from than any other vehicle, I have depressed the brake pedal several times and customers have never had any issues with their Honda if we ever had to do a brake fluid flush this way it would cost shops tons of money and wasted time there was air bubbles in your vid shooting back in the bleeder, and to maximize the fluid flush the vehicle has to be in idling position the brake master cylinder will never be broken down if you depress the brake pedal all the way don't worry there will never be a blown seal and the right way for all vehicles is to begin as you mentioned in the beginning of the vid Honda isn't a AMG nor M hehehehehe real funny were you basically need to plug in to the OBD to reset the brake system Honda is just another vehicle on the road.
When you bleed brakes with a bottle the safest way is to bring another person with you to depress the pedal so that the reservoir won't go empty that is dangerous for the seal in the brake master cylinder.
Next time wipe of debris with a clean cloth or paper towel to make sure that nothing goes in to the bleeder and use a tray on the bottom so that the floor don't get filthy.
Pump the pedal Maximum 10 times and then depress before you open the bleeder that way you will maximize the bleeding of brake fluid don't forget to check the reservoir. Hope this helps for amateurs.... :)
dude with your run-on sentences, understanding what you wrote is a bit confusing.
Then I suggest that you go and educate yourself at class and ask the teacher politely HOW TO, READ!
Reading the words was no issue, understanding was a bit off due to run-on sentences. I suggest you go and educate yourself to learn how to write.
You got sad need a paper towel, hehehe....
kenny kennysson on the real you do need to write your sentences better