dam dude , you did a clean job and pretty well thought out. i love it mist people arent like us , they dont do something creative and punch holes in a expensive bike to make it be what you want
Can you show us how you could bypass the ebike battery and hook up a 12V with a boost converter? I'm assuming the 12V battery would last longer, also you can charge it with a solar panel. Lol Every wants to go faster. I'm looking to last longer. Lol What's the best way for that? Parallel two ebike battery's? Or a high Amp 12V battery with boost converter?
@rehmankhalil4057 If you just want to replace a 36-volt battery with a 48-volt battery, while keeping everything stock. I can't guarantee that nothing will blow up. If you want to follow the steps I did (which worked), I would recommend you buy this motor controller and just change the voltage settings through the display: 250-watt motor controller: amzn.to/3CMqKjO (Amazon) As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. The link above earn commission. If you want a better explanation on how to replace an ebike motor controller, then check out one of my latest videos: ruclips.net/video/ONj4bckMyuE/видео.html
Sorry to ask in the last video I had a lot of questions about connecting the cables till today I can’t ride my bike it’s down the electric bike in now a normal bike 🚲 please can you show me how you connected the throttle cables of the hyper bike step by step😢🤲🏽🙏🏽 I when and cut all my motor controller cables as you did in the previous hyper bike video after I was waiting to see how you connected the cables back but you gave a brief explanation are you were too fast to connect back, ever since I’ve not ride the bike as an electric bike I have but like 2 to 3 Moto controller and each time I try to connect to fail I don’t know and all of these does not come with the Manuel. You know I’m really tired. Please help me.
@GamingVortex050 start with the motor wires, that has 5 thin cables, and 3 thick ones, which can be connected color to color. The included display has a specific connector that can be plugged into the controller. The throttle has a black wire for negative, a red wire for positive (5volts), and also a different color wire (usually blue or white). Finally, connect the thick red and black wires coming from the battery to the speed controller. If I missed any details, just ask.
Not exactly, but I will explain how to install it in any ebike. Pretty much all ebikes are designed the same way electrically. Some are more powerful and fast, while others are slower. But at the end of the game, they all have the same wiring. (at least what I've seen from building or modifying ebikes)
Hey man nice tutorial. If I did not misunderstood i can raise my 36v 10A 500W rear wheel drive motors speed just replacing controller unit with 48v 10a?
@itzjason5501 I guess you can replace the battery for a higher voltage one to increase the speed. But when doing so, you have to make sure that the motor controller and display can handle the voltage. Also, when increasing the voltage, you also have to program the motor controller to pull less current to prevent the motor from overheating.
@@ElectronicLab. is there any wire that stops the bike from counting to power on and go faster or is this the only way to make it faster and where would I purchase a fitting battery
@itzjason5501 what do you mean by "counting to power on"? and if you want to get a new battery, you can probably find it on Amazon, although be aware that there are bad batteries out there, and you should double check on youtube or reddit if that battery is legit
Theoretically you could, but you would have to experiment with the amperage setting from the boost converter when riding the ebike, in order to make sure it doesn't overheat. And regarding charging, once you connect the two batteries in parallel, you'll automatically charge both batteries when plugging in the charger.
@@ElectronicLab.thanks for the reply but also how’s the overvolted hyper eride going? I’m thinking about getting this boost converter and using for long term, does the motor work without any grinding issues on the gears? And does the controller work well like does it cut off sometimes? Thanks.
@@KevinT1 I don't drive the bike too often, and when I do, it is only for 10 to 20 minutes. so, if you're considering doing the same thing but driving it for an hour or more at a time, be sure to feel the heatsink temperature on the first run after every 10 or so minutes of driving, to make sure everything is ok. PS, since I haven't done lots of testing in different temperatures and intervals, be ready for this thing not to hold up long term.
@@ElectronicLab. also if one hyper battery bms is 20a and I have them wired together( still 36v) is it going to be 40a over current for the booster? I’m only needing 18a of current to pull to the brainpower e-bike controller. Ps the boost converter is 30a max.
@KevinT1 all motor controllers have a current regulator where if the current exceeds the max rating, it will basically reduce the power applied to the motor. If you have a current clamp, you can adjust the current regulating potentiometer from the boost converter until you get to 18 amps. If you don't have a current clamp, just set it to the max (all the way clockwise).
I didn't test if the fan is needed, but since it already comes with it and is also temperature controlled, then why not? Ps, If space is a problem, I would recommend buying a cheap battery-powered thermometer to mount on the handle bar of the bike and sticking the temperature prob into the heat sink, which will let you know if the boost-converter is getting too hot while driving
you should never tin a multi strand wire before putting it into a screw down terminal. it makes the connection LESS secure, not more. and can lead to a bad connection, the wire eventually working loose from vibration, or in the worst case, a high resistance connection which can overheat and cause damage or even a fire. Those terminals are designed to clamp onto bare wire. they should be used correctly
@@SMorrisRose I'm European, French to be exact and clearly the legislation for ebikes here is quite restrictive : - throttle up to 6kph (4mph) max - assist only up to 25kph (16mph) - maximum nominal power output of 250w... So yeah, I want more power AND speed but... the DIY here would make my bike as illegal as a brand new bike that does not fit the legislation. As such, if I'm okay riding an "illegal" bike, why would I impose myself the hassle of doing such a mod ? Wouldn't it be easier and more reliable to get a bike engineered to be faster directly from the factory ? Again, as an European customer, if I want to go cheap, I can get an Engwe Bike that goes 45kph with dual 48V13A batteries for as low as 1450€ ! Better, If I'm not on a budget, I can get a Super73 for 4000€ (yeah Super73 is way more expensive in Europe compared to the US) : it's law compliant in mode 1 but I can go all the way to off-road mode (50+ kph / 1200w rated power / 2000w peak) Don't get me wrong, i'm impressed by the mod ! It's freaking cool but it's more a proof of concept than a real life mod (by upping the voltage of the battery, the capacity doesn't change but the range will be greatly reduced). ex : Case 1 -> Vanilla bike : 36V 13Ah, Controller allows 13A discharge, max speed 20mph If I go full throttle from 100% to 0%, I can ride 1h and I will cover 20 miles Case 2 -> Modded bile : 60V 7,8A, same controller, max speed 28mph with the same test conditions : I can ride for only 36min and even if I go faster, I'll only cover 16,8 miles. And that's the ideal case... Because reality is a b***h, there will be energy loss (from the voltage booster, in tire friction, in motor efficiency, in heat, etc). And similar to a car, the energy loss will only goes up with speed, so the difference between "ideal" and "real life" range will be much larger with the 60V modded bike.
dam dude , you did a clean job and pretty well thought out. i love it mist people arent like us , they dont do something creative and punch holes in a expensive bike to make it be what you want
Like your wisdom!! how can i incress milage with a second battery , hiper e city bike 7.8 ah ,
Good concept indeed. But how many AMPS this small speed step-up converter can handle?
Also, can you please share the file for the 3D printed box?
Can you show us how you could bypass the ebike battery and hook up a 12V with a boost converter?
I'm assuming the 12V battery would last longer, also you can charge it with a solar panel. Lol
Every wants to go faster. I'm looking to last longer. Lol
What's the best way for that?
Parallel two ebike battery's? Or a high Amp 12V battery with boost converter?
What would I have to do if I put a 48v battery in it and kept everything else stock
@rehmankhalil4057 If you just want to replace a 36-volt battery with a 48-volt battery, while keeping everything stock. I can't guarantee that nothing will blow up.
If you want to follow the steps I did (which worked), I would recommend you buy this motor controller and just change the voltage settings through the display: 250-watt motor controller: amzn.to/3CMqKjO (Amazon)
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. The link above earn commission.
If you want a better explanation on how to replace an ebike motor controller, then check out one of my latest videos: ruclips.net/video/ONj4bckMyuE/видео.html
Thanks a lot❤
@ Glad I helped
Sorry to ask in the last video I had a lot of questions about connecting the cables till today I can’t ride my bike it’s down the electric bike in now a normal bike 🚲 please can you show me how you connected the throttle cables of the hyper bike step by step😢🤲🏽🙏🏽
I when and cut all my motor controller cables as you did in the previous hyper bike video after I was waiting to see how you connected the cables back but you gave a brief explanation are you were too fast to connect back, ever since I’ve not ride the bike as an electric bike
I have but like 2 to 3 Moto controller and each time I try to connect to fail I don’t know and all of these does not come with the Manuel. You know I’m really tired. Please help me.
@GamingVortex050 start with the motor wires, that has 5 thin cables, and 3 thick ones, which can be connected color to color. The included display has a specific connector that can be plugged into the controller. The throttle has a black wire for negative, a red wire for positive (5volts), and also a different color wire (usually blue or white). Finally, connect the thick red and black wires coming from the battery to the speed controller.
If I missed any details, just ask.
@@ElectronicLab. can you just take the controller back out and show a video of each wire of the controller
@BloodNBetrayal spoilers, My next video will be about how to install and wire up a motor controller for ebikes. It should be out in a week or two.
@ thank you so much. Will it still be a hyper eride like in the video you originally made?
Not exactly, but I will explain how to install it in any ebike. Pretty much all ebikes are designed the same way electrically. Some are more powerful and fast, while others are slower. But at the end of the game, they all have the same wiring. (at least what I've seen from building or modifying ebikes)
just might check and make sure the motor can handle that load safely too if youre gonna do this to your bike
Hey man nice tutorial. If I did not misunderstood i can raise my 36v 10A 500W rear wheel drive motors speed just replacing controller unit with 48v 10a?
@rufatshahbazov1326 you would also have to raise the voltage.
How can u bypass the pedal assist sensors so that u can go faster than just 20 mph
Without doing all that work
@itzjason5501 I guess you can replace the battery for a higher voltage one to increase the speed. But when doing so, you have to make sure that the motor controller and display can handle the voltage. Also, when increasing the voltage, you also have to program the motor controller to pull less current to prevent the motor from overheating.
@@ElectronicLab. is there any wire that stops the bike from counting to power on and go faster or is this the only way to make it faster and where would I purchase a fitting battery
@itzjason5501 what do you mean by "counting to power on"? and if you want to get a new battery, you can probably find it on Amazon, although be aware that there are bad batteries out there, and you should double check on youtube or reddit if that battery is legit
Hi I have the same controller and e-bike but the 30amp booster can work with two 7.8 amps hyper e-bikes battery? (36v 560watt) and how to charge it
Theoretically you could, but you would have to experiment with the amperage setting from the boost converter when riding the ebike, in order to make sure it doesn't overheat.
And regarding charging, once you connect the two batteries in parallel, you'll automatically charge both batteries when plugging in the charger.
@@ElectronicLab.thanks for the reply but also how’s the overvolted hyper eride going? I’m thinking about getting this boost converter and using for long term, does the motor work without any grinding issues on the gears? And does the controller work well like does it cut off sometimes? Thanks.
@@KevinT1 I don't drive the bike too often, and when I do, it is only for 10 to 20 minutes. so, if you're considering doing the same thing but driving it for an hour or more at a time, be sure to feel the heatsink temperature on the first run after every 10 or so minutes of driving, to make sure everything is ok.
PS, since I haven't done lots of testing in different temperatures and intervals, be ready for this thing not to hold up long term.
@@ElectronicLab. also if one hyper battery bms is 20a and I have them wired together( still 36v) is it going to be 40a over current for the booster? I’m only needing 18a of current to pull to the brainpower e-bike controller. Ps the boost converter is 30a max.
@KevinT1 all motor controllers have a current regulator where if the current exceeds the max rating, it will basically reduce the power applied to the motor. If you have a current clamp, you can adjust the current regulating potentiometer from the boost converter until you get to 18 amps. If you don't have a current clamp, just set it to the max (all the way clockwise).
The booster came finally can't wait to install it.. how important is that fan?
I didn't test if the fan is needed, but since it already comes with it and is also temperature controlled, then why not?
Ps, If space is a problem, I would recommend buying a cheap battery-powered thermometer to mount on the handle bar of the bike and sticking the temperature prob into the heat sink, which will let you know if the boost-converter is getting too hot while driving
Could you do a larger battery capacity?
@kingomega150 Yes, a larger battery capacity should work
haha , i love it , i figured most of them could go up to 60
you should never tin a multi strand wire before putting it into a screw down terminal. it makes the connection LESS secure, not more. and can lead to a bad connection, the wire eventually working loose from vibration, or in the worst case, a high resistance connection which can overheat and cause damage or even a fire. Those terminals are designed to clamp onto bare wire. they should be used correctly
I’m confused 😕
lol awesome dude
thanks
I gotta be honest... before I try to do all that I'll just purchase a faster bike in the first place 😂
Problem there being that the maximum speed of ebikes are limited by legislation in many or most jurisdictions.
@@SMorrisRose I'm European, French to be exact and clearly the legislation for ebikes here is quite restrictive :
- throttle up to 6kph (4mph) max
- assist only up to 25kph (16mph)
- maximum nominal power output of 250w...
So yeah, I want more power AND speed but... the DIY here would make my bike as illegal as a brand new bike that does not fit the legislation. As such, if I'm okay riding an "illegal" bike, why would I impose myself the hassle of doing such a mod ? Wouldn't it be easier and more reliable to get a bike engineered to be faster directly from the factory ?
Again, as an European customer, if I want to go cheap, I can get an Engwe Bike that goes 45kph with dual 48V13A batteries for as low as 1450€ !
Better, If I'm not on a budget, I can get a Super73 for 4000€ (yeah Super73 is way more expensive in Europe compared to the US) : it's law compliant in mode 1 but I can go all the way to off-road mode (50+ kph / 1200w rated power / 2000w peak)
Don't get me wrong, i'm impressed by the mod ! It's freaking cool but it's more a proof of concept than a real life mod (by upping the voltage of the battery, the capacity doesn't change but the range will be greatly reduced).
ex :
Case 1 -> Vanilla bike : 36V 13Ah, Controller allows 13A discharge, max speed 20mph
If I go full throttle from 100% to 0%, I can ride 1h and I will cover 20 miles
Case 2 -> Modded bile : 60V 7,8A, same controller, max speed 28mph
with the same test conditions : I can ride for only 36min and even if I go faster, I'll only cover 16,8 miles.
And that's the ideal case... Because reality is a b***h, there will be energy loss (from the voltage booster, in tire friction, in motor efficiency, in heat, etc).
And similar to a car, the energy loss will only goes up with speed, so the difference between "ideal" and "real life" range will be much larger with the 60V modded bike.