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ElectronicLab
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Добавлен 18 дек 2021
Welcome to ElectronicLab RUclips channel.
Building a project is fun, plus you'll learn some new thing's on the way.
In this channel you'll see electric vehicle builds/modifications and some other cool projects.
Click the subscribe button if you don't want to miss any of my new videos!
Building a project is fun, plus you'll learn some new thing's on the way.
In this channel you'll see electric vehicle builds/modifications and some other cool projects.
Click the subscribe button if you don't want to miss any of my new videos!
I tried voice control with Arduino
Support me for more videos: patreon.com/ElectronicLab
Timecodes
0:00 - Intro
0:24 - Installed a car jack onto my chair
0:40 - Putting together a prototype
1:13 - Out with the old & in with the new
1:49 - Building a current sensor
2:38 - Installing all the components
3:30 - First test
4:22 - Mounting the control panel
4:43 - final test
5:29 - Attempting to increase speed
Here are links for the primary parts used in this video:
► Voice Recognition Module V3: amzn.to/4cao8YW (Amazon)
► Type-C Arduino Nano: amzn.to/3Wr5R3O (Amazon)
► 43-Amp H-bridge: amzn.to/4c7okJb (Amazon)
► 40-Amp Relay: amzn.to/3VFuHMX (Amazon)
► Momentary Push Buttons: amzn.to/3VXYZfe (Amazon)
Timecodes
0:00 - Intro
0:24 - Installed a car jack onto my chair
0:40 - Putting together a prototype
1:13 - Out with the old & in with the new
1:49 - Building a current sensor
2:38 - Installing all the components
3:30 - First test
4:22 - Mounting the control panel
4:43 - final test
5:29 - Attempting to increase speed
Here are links for the primary parts used in this video:
► Voice Recognition Module V3: amzn.to/4cao8YW (Amazon)
► Type-C Arduino Nano: amzn.to/3Wr5R3O (Amazon)
► 43-Amp H-bridge: amzn.to/4c7okJb (Amazon)
► 40-Amp Relay: amzn.to/3VFuHMX (Amazon)
► Momentary Push Buttons: amzn.to/3VXYZfe (Amazon)
Просмотров: 534
Видео
I used an electric car jack to lift my office chair
Просмотров 9912 месяца назад
I made my office chair go up Electrically Support me for more videos: patreon.com/ElectronicLab Timecodes 0:00 - Intro 0:25 - Extracting and testing the electric jack 1:43 - Installing the hydraulic jack 3:14 - Quick test 3:31 - Reinforcing the hydraulic cylinder 5:02 - Building a motor control system 5:37 - Why a soft start circuit is important 6:36 - 3dprinting an enclosure 6:59 - Installing ...
Can a SLOW vehicle beat a FAST vehicle?
Просмотров 1,8 тыс.4 месяца назад
Support me for more videos: patreon.com/ElectronicLab Timecodes 0:00 - Intro 0:20 - The power and speed 1:04 - drag-race 2:12 - Testing top speed 3:09 - Outro
Using a Hoverboard to create a Powerful e-trike
Просмотров 4715 месяцев назад
Support me for more videos: patreon.com/ElectronicLab Timecodes 0:00 - Intro 0:16 - Planning 0:38 - Modifying the segway 2:09 - Attaching the segway to the bike 4:32 - Mounting the seat 5:50 - Adding electronics 7:12 - First test 7:21 - Painting the frame 7:53 - reassembling the frame 8:17 - Installing the key switch & throttle 9:07 - Replacing brake pads 9:16 - Routing the throttle & display t...
I built an automatic window closer
Просмотров 3 тыс.7 месяцев назад
Support me for more videos: patreon.com/ElectronicLab Timecodes 0:00 - Intro 0:42 - Planning 1:13 - Trial & error 1:55 - 3d printing a motor racket 2:06 - Putting together some electronics 2:58 - Talking about Arduino code 3:16 - Talking about final electronic setup 3:46 - quick test 4:25 - 3d printing an enclosure 4:37 - Adjusting motor current/torque 5:21 - Installing the components 7:34 - Mo...
How to replace the brake rotor and pads on a dodge RAM charger
Просмотров 1 тыс.7 месяцев назад
Support me for more videos: patreon.com/ElectronicLab Timecodes 0:00 - Intro 0:14 - Raising the tire 0:24 - Removing the tire 0:46 - Removing the brake caliper 1:04 - Taking apart the hub assembly 1:23 - Separate the rotor from the hub 1:44 - Dropping the hub onto the new rotor 2:15 - Installing the new rotor 2:48 - Mounting the new brake pads 3:23 - Reinstalling the tire 3:34 - brake test Back...
Adjustable Power Supply | Product Review
Просмотров 1348 месяцев назад
Adjustable Power Supply | Product Review
how to REBUILD a makita DRILL-BATTERY
Просмотров 4,4 тыс.9 месяцев назад
how to REBUILD a makita DRILL-BATTERY
How to INCREASE SPEED from an E-BIKE without replacing the battery
Просмотров 3,8 тыс.10 месяцев назад
How to INCREASE SPEED from an E-BIKE without replacing the battery
how to build a SPOT-WELDER using a MICROWAVE
Просмотров 3,2 тыс.11 месяцев назад
how to build a SPOT-WELDER using a MICROWAVE
how to add a THROTTLE onto a PEDAL ASSIST bike
Просмотров 51 тыс.Год назад
how to add a THROTTLE onto a PEDAL ASSIST bike
how to power a hydraulic press using a jigsaw
Просмотров 213Год назад
how to power a hydraulic press using a jigsaw
modify a hot water urn to fill up AUTOMATICALLY
Просмотров 250Год назад
modify a hot water urn to fill up AUTOMATICALLY
how to start a car using its dead battery
Просмотров 280Год назад
how to start a car using its dead battery
How to build a fast electric skateboard
Просмотров 1,7 тыс.Год назад
How to build a fast electric skateboard
How to make a battery pack for a golf cart
Просмотров 1,9 тыс.2 года назад
How to make a battery pack for a golf cart
How to make a motion activated light bulb
Просмотров 2422 года назад
How to make a motion activated light bulb
dam dude , you did a clean job and pretty well thought out. i love it mist people arent like us , they dont do something creative and punch holes in a expensive bike to make it be what you want
haha , i love it , i figured most of them could go up to 60
Hi, I've order the same kit, and have the same bike, after connecting all 5 thin wire(Red,Black,Blue,Green,Yellow) for Hall sensor (i actually have a 6th wire which is white but didn't use it) and 3 thicker wire(Green, Blue,Yellow). I get an E-001 on the display. when I press the throttle, the motor kicks in a bit 3 time (doesn't rotate the wheel much) and then it stopped. You know what could cause this issue? or what im doing wrong?
Try switching around the connections from the 3 thick wires going from the motor controller to the motor until it starts spinning. The white wire is usually either a motor temperature sensor or a motor speed sensor, which is not needed to use this motor controller.
@@ElectronicLab. Hi, new update: I can hear the rub motor beeing activated but it's not spinning (color matching the pair). After switching the 3 wires as you suggested it spin very little (just little kick) but I can hear a very loud noise from the motor as if it was going to break. Only the color pair doesn't give me that terrible noise but it doesn't even spin lol. Also I've connected the 2 green wire together on the controller that rotate the wheel without me pressing the throttle (As soon as I turn on the display the hub motor turn itself) so I disconnected the green, and still can't figure out what is wrong now ... any other idea you may have for me?
@kayriesshin6533 I've already had a similar situation where either the motor sounded like it was spinning or it was very jittery for a few seconds, but all I did was continue trying different wiring configuration until it worked. The 2 green wires are most likely a direction switch, which have to be connected for like 3 to 5 seconds in order to change the direction.
@@ElectronicLab. Hi =), Okay I found the combination that made the wheel spin now (from the Hub Motor to Controller: Blue to Yellow, Yellow to Green and Green to Blue). However, I can still hear a terrible noise from the motor =/ I don't think id even throttle with this insane noise... originally from pedal assist when it activate the motor it is not this noisy... I was expecting to be around the same noise. Do you think there's something I did wrong again ?
@kayriesshin6533 continue to change the configuration because I remember also seeing my motor spin, but making a noise as if there is something damaged. To save time, maybe write down the configuration you're already tried. (You can leave the 5 thin hall sensor wires as is)
How many wraps with the new thicker wire? I made one a few years ago but it uses a rotary encoder as a selector and it sends a double pulse. The problem I have is that it can easily blow a hole in my batteries if tension isn't really hard and lately I've been having issues even getting the welds to stick. I don't know if it's my nickel strips or do I need to really clean the cells before hand or do I even need to resharpen the electrodes.
@esqueue I ended up using 4awg copper stranded wire and made 3 turns as the secondary coil. But what is also important to get good welds, is to strictly use copper electrodes, use a relay at the 120volt primary coil and not a solid state relay, and yes sharper electrodes will give you better penetration with less power or shorter pulse time and talking about pulse time, make sure to have proper pulse length, between 10ms and 300ms should be plenty range. Cleaningwise, I don't go crazy, I just use a Dremel to flatten the surface from the old nickel strips if the cells are salvaged (I do recommend using a Dremel if everything fails). I also recommend getting the electrodes I used (linked in the videos description) because it has a pressure switch that closes at a certain pressure, which should give you consistent welds.
How would i know which one is the throttle cable on my motor?
@minutemarlow4291 you're motor doesn't come with a throttle cable, but it does come with a cable that has 3 thick wires and 5 thin wires
That was a vey interesting and informative video, thank you. I noticed that the resisters in your link are 100 watt resisters and the one on your tester is a 50 watt. Are they supposed to be 50 or 100? I'm buying the tester from the link and was wondering if you have a diagram of how you wired the resister(s) to the tester. I guess the higher the wattage the better, just an 8 ohm resister. Thank you.
@andyb7754 The reason why I put a 100watt resister in the description is because the 50watt resistor I used in the video, is because it became hot enough for me to mount it to a heat sink, In theory the 100watt resister I linked in the description should be able to stay kind of cool for it not to need a heat sink. also wiring wise, if you look at the pictures from amazon, you can see the bottom of the capacity tester were it indicates plus and minus for the battery holder and two "R" terminals for the resister (polarity doesn't mater for the resister).
i have been trying to find a way to get the box made. i even had a 3d printer for a couple of months that someone gave me and it wasn't any help. I just need the box... OR... ive been watching some videos on using epoxy to cover the whole component board is that possible with this item? I have had the booster for months and i havent been able to install it since I can't find a suitable cover. please help! nobody makes 2.5"x.2.5"x5.75" boxes like this...
I just added to my patreon the 3dprinter file for the enclosure I designed for the boost converter: www.patreon.com/ElectronicLab
is it safe to discharge till it reaches 2.5v???
Can you contact me
Do you this you can do this with giants ride control? I don’t have a hub motor I also didn’t see a controller like the one your talking about
What if I where use 26650 lithium batteries instead of 16650.
Yiddish?
😲😲😲😲🔥🔥🔥🔥
Make it go 100mph and give me a controller and u got a deal
Will this work for the hyper jet fuel e bmx ?
If it has a brushless motor, then it should work. Brushless motors have 3 thick wires coming from the motor, and most of the time, 5 thin wires as well, which is for sensing the motors position.
does that use 220v or 110v?
110v
Do u need the bike speed display??
Could you do a larger battery capacity?
@kingomega150 Yes, a larger battery capacity should work
Is there a way to remove the speed limiter on this bike? I'm sure it can go a bit faster than 20 mph
@amazingamx1255 The motor controller I've installed onto this e-bike gives all the power from the battery to the motor. but in this video, I've actually increased the speed from this particular e-bike without replacing the battery for a higher voltage one: ruclips.net/video/_Bh6IKfam08/видео.html
Much easier to turn on the ceiling vent + light with motion switch installed in place of light/fan switches.
@user-hn7gx5zh7x Some bathrooms only have windows and not a ceiling vent
Looking for help. I have an old pas SAMEBIKE and it's a folding type. When unfolded I can see the battery on one side and the plug in connector on the opposite side. I have no idea where the controller is??? Can you please help me?
@@edwardlove4300 I assume if the battery is on one side and thick connector going to the other side, the motor controller should be on the side we're the battery is not.
That's right. The company told me there controller is not compatible as it doesn't have a throttle wire connection. The person told me it's not a PAS but a PES system. I just want a throttle can you please advise me as what to shop for? 😵
@edwardlove4300 If your ebike has a brushless motor (3 thick wires and at least 5 thin wires coming from the motor), then it is most likely compatible with this motor controller I changed out with: amzn.to/46CmSMi
Hi great video! I was just wondering when the throttle is connected and working, does the pedal assist still work with the throttle or is it only the throttle that works on the bike? I know at the end you shows the pedal assist but I still want to confirm, thanks! 🙌🤙🏻💪🏻
@_ItsGh0st_ I'm pretty sure I was able to use both the pedal assist and throttle at the same time, but there's a setting that has to be changed on the display that will allow you to use both at the same time. I show how to change settings at the beginning of this video: ruclips.net/video/_Bh6IKfam08/видео.htmlsi=tk5mpqpmcc2bZ0DB
@@ElectronicLab. Cheers brother for helping me out, what video do I watch to change the LCD screen?🙌🙏
@_ItsGh0st_ In the beginning of this video I show how to excess the settings from the display: ruclips.net/video/_Bh6IKfam08/видео.htmlsi=tk5mpqpmcc2bZ0DB Once you excess the display settings, go to "P10," and select settings number 2, which should allow you to use both the throttle and the pedal assist at the same time
@@ElectronicLab. alright thank you so much for all the help, you are a real one 👆🙌
You're welcome
I still have 2 hall sensors wires?
@@rzhavyy90 from the motor?
@ElectronicLab. Yeh a small gage brown and white wire I have I video on my channel that shows the problem
@@rzhavyy90 For the e-005, try checking if the the display is programed for 36volts. I have some Information about how to check/change that in the beginning of this video: ruclips.net/video/_Bh6IKfam08/видео.html
@@rzhavyy90 To fix the e-001 error, check out this video, which has a solution, and also shows what the error codes mean
@@rzhavyy90 Most E-bike motors come with 5 thin wires. black for negative, red for 5volts, and than green, blue and yellow for sensing the motors position. some e-bikes come with an extra white and/or brown wire usually for speed signaling (not always needed), and/or temperature sensing (not always needed)
How did you make you capacity tester bro pls share to us. Thank you
@@JoseEarthDolera I used these parts to build the capacity tester: ► 18650 battery capacity tester: amzn.to/3RXkNoW (Amazon) ► 18650 battery capacity tester load resister: amzn.to/4cTBM3t (Amazon) ► 18650 Battery Holders: amzn.to/4buzoyN (Amazon) ► 18650 battery charger: amzn.to/3PZzl5A (Amazon)
Hey man can you please help me with this, the controller has a plug that says LCD display, which is red yellow green blue black and then attached to that is an extra black and white. I can plug in the five pin which is fine but I have no idea where the black and white extra wires go. The throttle cable on the controller is three wires not two.. could you explain that to me please, thanks! ❤
@mattias77 The two extra wires coming from the display are for a light output(optional), which will give you the same voltage from the battery after pressing down the mode button for a few seconds.
@@ElectronicLab.Ok awesome. There is still three wire connector on that controller that is labeled throttle. Do we not use that at all seems like the wire coming from the controller already has a spot that lines up color to color. (Labeled LCD) Also thanks for the response ☺️
If the battery is in the back ON the bike could be that the wires are unreachable😢😮?
So far, from my experience of opening over 10 e-bikes, there was always some way to get to it by removing screws, but if you want to find out how to get to you’re e-bikes battery, then search on youtube: "how to remove/replace the battery from a (you’re e-bikes name and model) e-bike"
lol awesome dude
thanks
An interesting project nucely presented. The unnecessary background music was quite distracting.
Thank you for the feedback
Useless but fun and good for learning. Nice! Subscribed xD
thanks
The rotary brush is a great idea. It's a stroke of genius to use it as a boring tool.
Thanks
What an awesome idea 💡
Thank you!
I have a hyper I just bought (black cruiser) because their dirt cheap (it was actually my first e-bike I bought a few years ago when they first dropped to $799 but I returned it within 90 days) Then I bought a mountain bike one with a thumb throttle with a 500w motor that I'm still using, so I just bought this new one specifically for this mod. So this may sound like a dumb question but if the new display has the thumb throttle attached did you really need a new controller? Or did both sets of wires go into that new display? Because the 810 has that 6km pace button (which is kind of like a throttle that only goes 6km)
I'm not sure, but it definitely sounds like an interesting thing to try out.
Hello I bought and installed same controller and throttle as you. In hall sensor wires my bike has an extra brown do you know what this connects to. Also battery is fully charged but display shows low battery with e6 code. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also motor tries to turn when throttle is engaged but doesnt.
Any luck yet with the brown wire
This could be used for greenhouse venting
Good idea!
This is project I planned on working on
Please what is the mode button used for? Also, is it possible to control the speed on the LCD screen of the new motor controller ?
The mode button allows you to choose between 3 speed settings, and on the display, you are able to play around with a lot of settings, which I tried out in this video: ruclips.net/video/_Bh6IKfam08/видео.htmlsi=syjbgBKD9_uuHbmC
@@ElectronicLab. Alright, thank you so much man 🙏
Thank you so much, man. I have a similar bike as well 😂
You're welcome
I have a question does anyone have a Huffy Everett 27.5 Inch Class 1 eBike, 20MPH, 7-Speed, 350W Motor, I was wondering if I could just hook up a throttle to it
Most pedal assist e-bike speed controllers don't come with throttle input wires, but to find out if you're e-bike speed controller does have a throttle input, you're going to have to have a look at you're e-bikes speed controller to see if it has an extra pair of 3 wires (usually red, black and yellow). to find out how to get to the speed controller from you're e-bike, you're going to have to search in youtube "how to replace a Huffy Everett 27.5 Inch Class 1 eBike, 20MPH, 7-Speed, 350W Motor speed/motor controller"
Like your wisdom!! how can i incress milage with a second battery , hiper e city bike 7.8 ah ,
Excellent presentation
Thanks
Where did you get the display cable ?
I linked it in the description. It is included with a motor controller kit
How is the throttle response ?
Faster than most cheap e-bikes
You could have at least added what parts you bought in the description
Did I not?
DUDE THANK YOU
You're welcome
I have everything hooked up the exact same expect for the brown and white wire that come from the motor. Please help me!!! If tired to plug them into every possible option. Can you please do a step my step or atleast tell me what I’m doing wrong. EVERYTHING works except for the wheel spinning. The motor is receiving power but it’s not executing the spin and movement
do you hear any noise while using the throttle?
can you make one for me please and give me the instructions i will pay and be thankfull for that man and for real i think you should make that a business like seriously many people like me will like to have some spacial gadgets think about it man i really need something like this and i know if i put that on my bike half of my friends will want that too on their bikes as well
I’m trying to do this but I can’t open the cover that holds the motor controller, how do you do it?
Search in youtube the company and model of the e-bike and check "how to get to the motor controller"
Whats the v rating on the battery? 🔋 didnt know you could do parallel and in series but i guess it makes sense just making them bigger batteries then putting them together for more power
I used 20x 18650 batteries. 10 in series, and 2 in parallel, which gives me a maximum voltage of 42 volts and a total capacity of 5200mah
@@ElectronicLab. that’s so cool!! What was the tool you used to solder the batterys together and what kinda plate/wires were those you used to conjoin them together?
@tomroethke I used nickel strips to connect the cells together, and to connect them, I used a spot welder, which I built in this video: ruclips.net/video/CkvBUEBxxKw/видео.html
I’m not electrically inclined, but using a paper based tape around that many batteries just screams bomb to me. Please enlighten me on tape choice, and if it is the best option why it is.
For lithium-ion batteries I would recommend using PVC shrink tubing which has fire-resistance, along with silicon to seal the openings for water resistance. I used painter's tape not necessarily because it is the best option, but because that's what I had at the time of building the battery pack. but from my experience, lithium-ion batteries will burn through pretty much all battery wrappings out there, so the most important thing to prevent the batteries from having a chance to get destroyed, is installing a proper Battery management system, which has over charging protection, over heating protection and much more
That's AWESOME!
Thanks