Overvolting an electric bicycle motor for more speed! Q&A#7
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
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Wow thanks for answering my question, and what an utterly thorough answer too!
I'll drop you a private message.
good that you mentioned the controller capabilities. it is important to know what caps you have inside, and keeping the amps down when overvolting. Should be mentioned a motor running at 50 volts/10 amps, is more efficient than a motor running at 36 volts/ 13.8 amps....both using 500 watts. less amps = less heat losses. But going fast is not as important as STOPPING. Even if you do the necessary tweaking to improve performance, please upgrade your brakes on your ride to keep everyone safe, not just you, but the people you are cycling around as well. Getting clipped by a bike going 30 miles/hr is not the same as getting clipped at 20mph.
How can you bring the amps down?
@@Meme_supplier less twist on the throttle….more legpower/lower assist level.
Motors are extremely similar to power supply transformers in design. Both are rated for a certian current continuously based off the size of the windings used in the motor/inductor/transformer. So it is more accurate to look at the continuous current rating and the power rating (KW) when comparing motors for use in an e-bike.
Also it is important to look at the cooling design of the motor and control electronics. Even if a motor or controller is more powerful, if it does not have adequate cooling to run at that power level continuously you will burn it out. Conversely, you can run a smaller motor or controller at a higher power level (to a degree) if you have more than adequate cooling on it. You will take a bit of an efficiency hit doing that though as a somewhat higher percentage of the input power is wasted as heat.
So many of my questions answered in one video! Thank you!
Whoever asked that question thank you. And thanks for a complete answer also👍🏾
Thank you for the lesson. I am now a subscriber and am awaiting delivery of first my e-bike. Thanks again.
i use a dc > dc booster to run my ebike batteries at 60v. The caps in my controller can handle 63v. And that's 60v under load, so 38 MPH on my bike.Way better than my 52v running stock which is 58.8 and drops to 53v under load. And my 48v which runs even slower. Anyone who runs a bike should consider this option. All my 48v and 52v batteries are running at 60v all the time using the booster
I’m thinking about doing this as well and just use my 48v battery. I’m currently running a 1000w motor with a shunt modded controller that have 80v caps inside. I want to use a booster instead of changing the battery. What dc to dc booster are u using?
I've been running my direct drive 36v hub front wheel off a disability scooter as the rear wheel on my DIY disability scooter at about 82 V DC and love the better efficienty that it gave me
Thanks for the informative piece. I would prefer to hear you talk without the music track in the background, it's distracting.
The speed increase will be a lot less than 44%. 20% is maybe realistic. Rule of thumb is that doubling the speed require 8 times the power.
Hill-climbing is where you will see the biggest benefit.
Overall range as well. Unless you custom make a battery just for higher output with same number of cells. Often a higher voltage pack is also higher total capacity.
To clarify the formula he gave is not off, its just that it gives you the "unloaded speed", or the speed of the wheel spinning in air with no resistance.
I'm 55yr, just getting into e-bikes, thus will be buying your books on Amazon. Thanks for the information Brother...:-)
5 years it’s been good sir, are you enjoying ebikes still?😃
Was going to ask same thing lol
Thanks for your fantastic content. You are really a good teacher.
Thank you so much for this information! Just got my support ticket back today regarding my technical question from FLX! So pumped to [destroy] modify my Babymaker II settings!
Awesome
You’re a Master of ebike to me
I learned a lot from your videos . Merci bien
L,S&S
Its important to note that motor power does not increase with voltage linearly. Certain motors can have a huge increase in RPM with just a little voltage boost. They have a KV value which indicates how much it spin faster when voltage is higher.
Does increasing current just increase torque and acceleration, and voltage the top speed?
I like to hot rod things , it’s just me since I was a kid . Heat is not your friend so don’t look for reliability .
When I was slot car racing I use to rewind the motors with heavier wire but less winding , those motors would scream but my hand held controller would smoke from the amount of heat it generated .
You sure know what you're talking about,' Love your Videos I've been thinking about building a e,bike
doctor of ebikes. ty for answering my questions!
Motor maximum voltage is defined by the maximum field strength in the stator saturation, heat and isolation strength.
Thank you for your comment. Can you expand on this?
please expand in complicated form and in simple laymen terms
is there any way of measuring saturation?
So, will more copper windings help to increase the voltage?
Until it melts, nice if they all had thermal cutouts.
Thanks Mike. I am considering a new build and it is gong to be electric. Your channel and tips will help a lot.
You published that formula for speed in a book and if it was your friends, yeah I see a suit coming !!
Every new video better then the last!!!! Excellent
I got the 36v brush motor over volted to 48v and the chain drive well aligned. I saw you review after but I have a brushless front so just a bit extra. Check your controller capacitors before over volting!
U R De Man when it comes to all things electric
Finally i have an answer thank you sir brilliant explanation
THIS IS THE EXPLANATION OF THE COEFFICIENT USED IN THE FORMULA:
.1 the tire diameter is 26", multiply by 2.54 to obtain centimeters measure, so 66.04cm. Then you need that measure in kilometers for the calculation of km/h, divide by 100000 so 66.04cm ~= 0.00066km.
- keep note that you multiplied by 2.54 and then divided by 100000 -
.2 the circumference of the wheel is "diameter times PI", that means in a whole turn of the wheel you will travel approximately 0.00066km * 3.14 ~= 0.0021km.
- keep note you multuplied by 3.14 -
.3 RPM by its acronym means Revolutions Per Minute, so to calculate how much you travel in a minute you multiply your motor RPM by the result obtained in .2, and for the sake of semplicity we will use 300RPM and so 300RPM*0.0021 ~= 0.62km/minute.
.4 to obtain km/h just use the result from .3 and multiply it by 60 (infact if you travel X amount in a minute you will then travel 60 times X the amount in an hour), so 60*0.62km/minute ~= 37km/h
- keep note you multiplied by 60 -
All pure numeric coefficients can be treated separately so (2.54 / 100000) * 3.14 * 60 ~= 0.0048
Thank you!! :)
Thank you so much for your invaluable information, highly appreciate it, keep it up the outstanding job, have a great day.
thanks..by watching your cleaned explanation video i never have hesitations now for using higher voltage on my ebikes..
Hello there, how wass the overvolted motor? It lasts? Is still alive? 🙂
ty Great vid
A Standard brushless e-bike motor rated at 36V will easily handle a 48V Battery, despite the doom and gloom 'rolling fireball' comments lol - just be sure those capacitors in your controller are rated at 60V and you'll be fine, as you pointed out - its a relatively easy swap-out (basic soldering) if your capacitors are rated too low.
Thanks that info really gave me a idea for the scrap bike I was about to chuck out. 😊
thank you mika for all your smarts !
My name's Brenda, and I have a magnum E-Bike classic like rise II and I am trying to find the best way to increase my speeds to maybe 35 mph since the minimum is 24 and also, trying to figure out how to program the display to show battery percentage rather than v. or find a new a new battery that can extend the battery life to at least 5 hours on a full 100% charge. Thanks.
Thanks for the tip on the 2WD throttle wiring. I think I will build a 2WD 2x1000W bike.
Thanks for the list on your bike and the information provided about over-volt-aging the motors. Thanks MikeJ F.
Wish me luck I’m going to overvolt to 80v! I have a 1200w motor with a 36/48v controller (I think)
I’ve been using a 52v for awhile now and no problem. I was going to order another 52v and wire it together to get 104v (in theory- via parallel or series I forget which one Bc I’m not going that route 😅😂)
I’ll follow up on how it goes
@Ronald Drump I went with a bigger battery first and when I did, my controller smoked for a little while but I definitely got more speed/power and nothing ended up breaking!
I’m scared to overvolt Bc I think my controller won’t be able to handle in
Thank you for this! You just answered a bunch of questions I had. Very informative, love your channel!
Super customer service
Will a 72v controller work with a 52v battery
Like your sea and waves perspective :) and music in your video is great
Finally some love for the music. Someone get this guy tickets to my next show!
Thanks for a very clear and distinct information I finally understand lol!
There is a lot of potential confusion on this topic. The controller can only adjust the average current through the motor by limiting voltage the motor sees - typically with pulse width modulation. If you reduce the current limit setting, the motor will never get to see the battery voltage available except in terms of very short peaks (milli-secs). Left unconstrained by the controller settings, a higher battery voltage will increase the current draw as well so the potential power increase is a lot more than the % increase in voltage might suggest. A "500w" 36v motor represents a 2.6 ohm load. An increase from 36v to 48v (33% increase) will cause the potential current draw to increase by 33% as well, so available power increases by 78%.
Awesome video thank you for doing it!!!!
I just want to add that by removing the screws on the controller, one can open it and look what maximum voltage is written on the capacitors/mosfets. Apart from that, you just need to check the head in the current phase cable (the red one going from the controller to the motor).
If all that is good. All is good. The battery will suffer more of course. I only use it to climb hills at normal speed, so I don't bother traffic. 45km/h is a perfct speed in any other scenario inside the city.
Always helpful and Love your book.
This helped out so much holy crap!
fyi the formula used in this video does not take into account aerodynamic drag, which increases with the square of your velocity. It will significantly overestimate the top speed of bikes with more powerful (2000+ watt) motors.
Shouldn't you be calculating circumference rather than diameter?
Diameter x pi 3.1415
I think the surface of the tire = 1 revolution. If I'm wrong, please explain.
you sir are a PURE GENIUS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice and easy explanation, well done 👏 . Keep it up. 👍
Thank you so much for your time and your help... Tumbs up.
i hear those old bionx 350 hubs are actually wound for like 1000 watts . Love to see this retrofit done
thats finally a good overvolting video!
It has been said that more than 36V(42V) can be dangerous depending on a specific set of conditions.
I remember reading that the number of windings are also a parameter to determine the speed of the motor vs volts input.
Yes, more turns per copper winding results in slower RPM.
Great. Was curious about the controller limits. Thanks
some of those 36v bafang kits are sold as 48v kits. my one is 350w @ 36v or 500w @ 48v. according to manufacturer specs
Great video, Micah! I forgot that you had short hair many years ago. Thank you for working so hard for us all of these years!
The speed of your motor is controlled by the frequency supplied by motor controller. The overvolting will increase amperage hence power output. The extra power will create stronger magnetic field which will create more torque....
You do get faster by overvolting because you get extra power and having the same weight(resistance) you will ride faster.
Your theory works with brush motors, but you have brushless motor.
I have recently bought your book on diy lithium batteries it makes for an interesting read, I bought it based on jahugarcias recommendation and am not disappointed, good book.
The idea of over volting a motor is interesting, using 18650 cells you could up the voltage incrementally, ie by 4.2 volts so take it to say 42/46 volts thus keeping it well within the capacity of the speed controller and giving you extra speed.
Now if you could only get the makers of these batteries to sell them at a price we could all afford especially in the UK then that would also be a huge step for human kind.
example of what i'm talking about is this, I just bought a 15 ah 18650 battery pack which cost 260 pounds which is probably around 300 dollars or so, compare that to the price of the cells in the USA and i'm guessing it would be a hell of a lot cheaper.
So you can see why electric battery bikes are not that popular, apart from the obvious restriction on motor size being 250 watts, and are speed restriction of 15.5 mph, which most people can run faster than, but hey laws are meant to be bent right.
Yep, the mistake was already pointed out to me but thank you! I've already submitted a correction version!
But no link to down load it so it can be added to the book that we already have for those who have already got your book.
Just a suggestion but if you have a link to a web site those who already have your books could down load updates to the book for corrections.
After all putting pen marks through pages where mistakes are is unsightly on a paper back book, but a copied page inserted is better.
So even though it's good you have made the correction for your book that is printed from now on, but how about doing the same for those who already have your book/s.
It's a good book.
If you are within the UK you can buy decent original batteries at nkon.nl for a very reasonable price.
Mike, is it possible to design it to be charged by different chargers at the same time to reduce charge time?
and how much range difference would it be when using highest quality 3500mah 18650 cells vs regular pre-made packs from china?
you always manage to make concise and to the point!! thumbs up
Motors are in Watts ... Batteries are rated in Volts & Amps ( Volt is speed , Amp is power )
Amps x Volts = Watts ... or ... Amps = watts / volts ... EXAMPLE ( 750 Watt motor / 48 Volts = 15.6 amps ) highest amp limit or risk burning out motor.
Motors are usually manufactured with a 15 % "safety factor" built in ... so in reality a 750 watt motor can handle 862 watts before it "redlines" the motor.
862 watt motor / 48 volt of battery = 17.9 AMPS ( volt x Amps = Watts )
Great video all the answers I wanted
This video was helpful thank you
Accurate info well covered! Current kills...people and motors. Most of the insulation is rated 600V or higher. If they made motors with internal liquid cooling, they could be pushed extremely hard! 18650 cells can't deliver high current without many good ones in parallel. That (and smaller wires) are the reason they go higher voltage. 21700 cells can deliver more current and hobby LiPo packs can deliver massive current.
VEry nice information on motors / controllers in using over voltage setup =)
If you use BLDC motor with PWM controller the voltage has no influence to speed. If you increase voltage you increase power and current. Your controller is sending correct frequency to your motor and PWM power control. You can destroy controller and motor without good cooling.
Hello, just fascinated by the 0.003 number. It's amazing. Who would have thought
PI*DIAMETER_INCH*60*RPM/63360
could be simplified to
RPM*DIAMETER_INCH*0.003
with only ~0.8% loss in accuracy of the real value.
4:48 How exactly are you current limiting the controllers to 11 amps? Is this an in-built feature, or how are you achieving this?
I did overvolt an 24 v engine to 36 v The result is about 36 40 km per hour Got 2000km with the engine and still working fine
hey you seen the one where the guy made a hub motor into his sprocket and doubled his mileage(after burning up a motor) by changing to a kids ebike bms so he didn't fry the motor. I think it was his kids bike and he stole it from him because it ran at half the power. the both ran on the same battery and that is why his kids could keep up.
Hello. I don't know much about ebikes, BLDC or whatever motor they use (I'm building an electric car). I just wanted to comment and say that at least in series wound (brushed DC) motors increasing the voltage let's you push more amps in the higher rpms.. It basically means that with a higher voltage you can sustain your max torque to a higher motor rpm. I assume similar things happen in ebike motors also.
Also going below the recommended values will increase the life of the motor, the controller and the batteries :)
Try googling "back EMF" and "Lenz's law" for more information.
Voltages are usually not marketing. you said it yourself, the motors are meant to be ran at those power levels. Any more they are not as efficient (heat up) and you run a risk of damaging the motors.
This was exactly what i needed to know. Thanks
Suuuuper helpful. Thank you!
Great videos, Im watching all of your videos. Ive got one of your books on order, probably order the others.
Sweet dude! Binging on the channel tonight!
I think that the main reason that increacing your motor voltage by 25% will result in less that a 25% increase in speed will not so much be ;inneficiencies; as the fact that aerodynamic resistence does not merely increace in a linear manner but even worse, in proportion to the square of speed.
Yees!
Thank you for this video!
Very good video, thanks
If it's assumed a motor's stated voltage from the factory is directly related to safe heat level then I would be careful giving it more than it's rated at least for prolonged intervals. The more pertinent issue is the temperature at which the motor windings are designed to operate so they give a long and predictable insulation life.
Yea you have to watch the heat build up. If it's staying relatively cool, you're fine.
you could try putting a saddle bag system on the bike and then put your ebike motor on a 120 stator and rotor (you could use your old motor) then you need a vms (volt management system AC) and an dc inverter and a new ebike motor. the speed and mileage potentials are huge.
Can you go a little more in depth? I'd love something that can cruise 45mph for 80miles or so
@@andyfumo8931 wrote this a long time ago but you use the old motor to turn an object that make multiple times the energy like beat truck alternator that only has to rotate at 900 rpms to works then put the energy in a power supply to control the energy and you could use your old motor to make a super bike full electric that would do 300 miles per hour for 12 and 2 amps starting power. they use this method to power for subways in new york. a 200 amp version would make 100 amps and 600 volts.
@@deathincarnatesplace you're saying a car alternator right? I've thought about that since watching this video of a guy rig a bike with one and a very small motor, the kind that fits in your hand. Maybe you've seen him, he does it to a fixie. The power supply would be a regular ebike battery? Any size?
@@andyfumo8931 if you use a yanmar permenant magnet alternator for a tractor common on home riding mower it produce energy to supply a battery and charge the system. it is usually 12 volt with high amps perfect for an ebike. you can literally if you have the technical background just remove and place in the old ebike and use the new one if you have one that is tire rubber to rubber based just use old system to turn the yanmar at 900 rpm and this with torque adds amps but reduces speed of initial motor and noise. but require and set of gear and a set of belts. best i have seen is small from motor to big to next gear small and repeat. this use 2 to 6 amp and 12 volts and make 900 rpms but take apart and rebuild yanmar for more ease of turning and no need for gears. Uses only 6 volt 1.2 to 1.5 amps last 3 to 6 hours on big ebike batteries (best good luck) you will need new throttle and on off switch for the old motor. done easiest way ever i saw.
Must Have
I have 36v motor and 60v batt+controller 26" Top Speed 55km/h. Confirm it work well motor just a little warm only.
i have a dual motor 52v bike .. akready reaches 56 to 57 km/h with these two 1kw bagang hub motors... quite sure it could run with 60 maybe even 72 v
Speed is controlled by the controller, depending in the controller you will be limited at certain speed, of course if the motor is unable to handle the load then higher amps/voltage will give you more speed, some controllers let u remove this limitation and have any speed you want, the higher the voltage the higher the watts you can run a motor without burning, so for example if the motor can only take 30 amps at 36v, all you get is about 1000 watts of power, but if you double the voltage you double the amount of watts, so the motor is more powerful more torque no necessary more speed, second there is a limit in voltage, because the inside of the motor is design it for certain voltage if you go too high lets say 800v the inside of the motor is unable to isolate that much voltage so it would burn out. Higher voltage means more torque, and if you have no limits in speed by the controller then because you have more power then you can ride a higher speeds, these aren't DC Motor were you increase voltage and you have higher speed, these are 3 phase motors that the speed is controlled by the ac signal.
How about the battery. You touched on the motors and the controller (capacitors). Does the battery being drawn down faster that it was rated for cause more degradation due to higher discharge rates?
Thank you for your informed information. Could you comment on the different 'Watt' rating of ebikes and if the different ratings are achievable by overvolting ? Ebike kits sold include 250w, 500w, 1000w and 1500w,. Is the difference in the controller ? Would it be possible to overvolt, and/or use a different controller to get more powerful ebikes? - Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I wrote a longform article on this here: www.ebikeschool.com/myth-ebike-wattage/ but that would make a good video too, I'll add it to the list.
Sir if i use 48v battery pack in my 36v pmdc moter , will it burn the winding of moter?? Please reply atleast ,yes or no please
@@EbikeSchool please reply sir
@@rohankumarchauhan9653 How did this work out for you ? I was going to try this out myself . You were never going to get a reply if this guy has over 200,000 subscribers . Just too busy.
@@TheSkyPod I'll use a 48v controller ,in 36v moter , I don't know it's results 😅
Hi, Richard Stuart here, have an Ebike with a 48 Volt setup, and a SW-900 The Controller doesn't seem to have a name on it. Does say Max current is 22 Amp. From what I have read it should work also at 52 volt level. What else, to be safe, should be checked.
Good video. I am building my 1st ebike and appreciate all that you have shared. When you mention that current limit should be reduced while overvolting how do you make that adjustment?
Can you make a video about how to check how much volt the controller can handle?
The Controller is the Limiting Factor No matter if the Controller is Built into the Motor or Not. As I have a Bafeng BBSHD it's a 1,000 Watt Continuous and 1,500 Watts Peak Mid Drive Motor and The Controller is Total Built into the motor you can Run anything from 24 Volts @ 62.5 Amps to 52 Volts @ 29 Amps and Never more then 60 Volts for My Controller can only handle 60 Volts Max and you have to Remember a 48 Volt Battery will Charge to 54.6 Volts so a 52 Volt Battery will be 58.8 Volts Fully Charged so you Don't want to use anything Bigger then a 52 Volt Battery That is 14S at 3.7 Volts Each and Fully Charged they are 4.2 Volts so 14S will be 58.8 Volts Fully Charged and they call them 3.7 Volt Cells and 14 X 3.7 = 51.8 Volts they call that a 52 Volt Battery. I run it with a 13S7P 18650 2500 mAmp Cells so that is Called a 48 Volt @ 17.5 AH and Fully Charged it is 54.6 Volts and the Motor can Pull up to 30 Amps so Even if there is a Voltage Drop to 52 Volts @ 30 Amps that is 1560 Watts and then I put it through a Seven Speed Gear Drive and it is Very Powerful for a Bicycle and I have the Rear Rack for the Battery for in the Woods Trail Riding and hill Riding it's the Way to Go and Not with the Battery on your Down Tube and With only 91 Cells I can Carry My E-bike No Problem for I have to Carry it up and Down Two flight of stairs. I will Never own a hub Motor Total Junk Compare to the Bafeng Mid Motor Drive BBSHD with Real World 1,000 Watts Continuous and 1,500 Watts Peak put that to a 64 Tooth From Drive Gear to a 13-32 Tooth Rear Gear and you can go up any Hill at 24MPH Top Speed of 47MPH and Easy Cruising Speed of 35 MPH and you can Ride it in the Harshest of Wood Trails and I would not if I was you put it in a Fat Tire Bike you can but I wouldn't and I run Mag aluminum Wheels NO Spokes for E-motors Hub or Mid Drive Loosens up Spokes. and With hub Motors most Times your Control is not part of your hub Motor and What Volt the Control can handle will be the Limiting Factor and High Voltage Controllers 60 Volts and Higher will Cost you so Stop Wasting your Money on them Stupid Hub Motors and Buy yourself Something that will Last you Years and Thousands of miles I have 1,287 Miles on my Bafeng BBSHD and it is Still Running Strong as it was Brand New out of the Box it was a Little Costly but it was Well Worth Ever Cent I Built the Bike for under $2,500.00 USD total that's with Tax Shipping and Handing and that was in 2020 and that's for the Mid Motor Kit the 48Volt@ 17.5AH Battery, Controller, rear Rack for the Battery, Controls, Hydatic Disk Brakes front and Rear and the Bike Brand New off Amazon Everything I needed to put it together and Now it's over $3,200.00 Plus Tax and Shipping and Handling for if I done the Same Kit and Bike Today. So Moral of the Story Don't over Voltage your Controller the Motor more then Likely can handle it but the controller not so much for that is Where Hub Motor Makers Cheap out on is the controller for a Good Controller that can Handle 1,500 Watts Needs to be Rated for 2,000 Watts you don't want to be Running any Controller Right to it's Max Voltage and Ampere you will Burn it out Good Rule of Thumb your Controller should be Double The Wattage of What you want too Run Continuous and Min of What you Want to Run Peak but that Peak Should Not become Your Continuous use Power Level for you will Burn up the Controller. and Don't Buy Small 750 Watt Hub Motors and Try to make them putout 1,000 Watts for you will Burn them up.
I disagree. I have 2 Bafang mid drive and 1 rear hub drive. Not all mid drives are the same nor all hub drives. There are pros and cons on both.
Jesus Christ man… punctuate!
Mate I've been wondering about that for YEARS, I've had 4 ebikes over 10 years
Maybe many years old, but still good information.
Possibly worth noting that the power and voltage ratings are usually just for motor duty cycle. At their rated power the motor should be able to handle a 100% duty cycle. Past that point they will begin to reduce in duty cycle due to the increase in heat generation as the power utilization increases. Well noted though :)
Good information
Thank you very much
Sometimes I see controllers advertised by the number of "TUBES". What do the "tubes" refer to? For example "The 12 tube controller is suitable for...", "24 tube controller", " "Dual Mode 18 Tube Sine Controller".
Tubes refers to mosfets
Good info on e-bike 48v controller and overvolting your motor(s). How would you install a generator 12volt?
You can meet the wires . As a kid we epoxied the armature to run 12 at 36
We purchased this Vivi 27.5” electric bike and a Tentaquil 26” electric bike for our 13 and 14 year olds. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxUiL0GnyDjP32RJdd660sP8mZk4CRLTCJ The Vivi was much easier to put together. With the Vivi, there was a video link to assist with assembly which made the process easier to follow (we did put the handlebars on upside down, but it was a quick and easy fix). With the Tentaquil, the assembly was not as simple to follow, but after we messaged the company for an assembly video, it was easier and they did respond quickly. The other major differences were that the Vivi has a grip throttle on the right handle (like a motorcycle) and the Tentaquil has a push throttle that you use your thumb to activate. The monitors were also different, so if you’re looking for something specific in terms of changing the bikes functions, pay attention to what the monitor offers. We were really impressed with the overall quality and functionality of both bikes, but if you’re looking for more power and an easier assembly, definitely go with the Vivi!
Sir you told that over volteing the motor. I am using 24v gear motor. I can use 36v 20ah battery in that motor