Nice video. I bought a TT02R recently for £90 second hand and converted it to race spec. I’m amazed how good it is… I’m now only 2 laps behind the sponsored Xray touring car drivers at my local club, which is amazing given the price gap.
I have a bunch of mods for my TT02. I got them in Japan for super cheap, including a Super Stock TZ motor for 15 quid. I like to use 12.9 cap head bolts as they don't strip the head. I had to grind and remove the steering bolts. I love ya build and sure it drives 300% better than stock. I just need the carbon top brace that looks great and sure it helps, but I did pick up a hard deck for 3 quid.
@RTLRC for sure, and when you can talk to the pro at the hobby shop in Japan, they can give you the info you need. I wish every Tamiya or even RC fan can visit there oneday. Im an Australian living in Malaysia, and RC stuff is cheap, but not anywhere near the Japan prices, and the UK prices are crazy. One tip a Super Stock BZ is for dirt and the TZ is for the raod and at 26,500rpm up from 16,000rpm it makes a big difference.
@@RTLRC ah no worries! I’m currently building one just for speed runs with under car aero etc. The TRF420 arm conversion is truly excellent, but not cheap. Worth exploring though!
I have 7 TT02 I do know the performance, and dissatisfied.but some shiny body shells come with the kit are exclusive. Moreover, I spent a lot to mod these TT02 to type s grades
Nice build. I’m following your advice on the way your hooking up your steering . Someone else I know told me the same .I ordered titanium screws for my build . I use the stock TT02 lower plastic arms . Cheaper to break and it’ll give the rest of the aluminum parts some give as to not break them . I have most of your hop ups already except I use carbon fiber battery retainer,shock towers and front bumper support to-get rid of that really heavy chunk of plastic . Also titanium screw kit , titanium and aluminum nuts top shock screws . I have on order the carbon fiber steering top brace which crosses the tops of steering posts which you show here and the sand protector and the steering link rods you have . All on the hard plastic chassis . Yeah racing sells titanium shock pivot balls with longer threads the plastic arms that strip very easy even if you careful so I figure longer is better even if I have to drill deeper . I noticed on yours. the chassis side of the upper camber link has a lot of play in it . I shimmed mine up nice to almost no play . I Gotta shim my spur gear up soon looks like a millimeter play but may do half . 2 days ago I changed out the brushed motor for a Hobbywing 21.5 brushless system . Not crazy fast but it is faster ( maybe 22/24 mph ). Now it’s much quicker off the line and braking is so much smoother . I highly recommend it but it’s not cheap about $150 American . My goal is to Trying to keep weight low into the chassis and light and strong with aluminum and carbon fiber parts . ( if your racing with a transponder I located mine in a notched out area of the foam front bumper half way under the carbon fiber bumper support ) . My thought is if in a race that’s neck and neck whomever transponder is closest to the receiver wire Will register first . Most people put em back over the servo or something . Our tracks wire is ground level ( drive over it ) and my transponder is very close to the ground getting better reception to the race system .
Did you find the balls in the GPM steering rods stiff at all? I received exactly the same yesterday and found a couple of the balls to be really stiff … and I thought unusable - unless I can find a way to make them move smoother.
@@WonPXL not that I remember but just looked at my TT 02 and yes they are snug but that’s a good thing. Spray a little WD40 in and work the steering until happy it’s free enough. Cheers
Very nice Love TT02 To fit your axle's in your rear you need from Yeah Racing: TT02-017 or from Tamiya 54477 You need some 38/39 mm metal dog bones to use with your TG10 wheel axles. But i don't think they are easy to find, maybe Ebay or Ali Express But you could get some 54394 metal universal shafts, as they also use a long axle. I use these on one of my TT02 to have a real wide stance I buy (mostly) my hop ups from RC Mart
Nice video. I bought a TT02R recently for £90 second hand and converted it to race spec. I’m amazed how good it is… I’m now only 2 laps behind the sponsored Xray touring car drivers at my local club, which is amazing given the price gap.
Nice build!
I have a bunch of mods for my TT02. I got them in Japan for super cheap, including a Super Stock TZ motor for 15 quid. I like to use 12.9 cap head bolts as they don't strip the head. I had to grind and remove the steering bolts. I love ya build and sure it drives 300% better than stock. I just need the carbon top brace that looks great and sure it helps, but I did pick up a hard deck for 3 quid.
@@kanenstuff nice one it is worth the extra attention and upgrades imho 👍
@RTLRC for sure, and when you can talk to the pro at the hobby shop in Japan, they can give you the info you need. I wish every Tamiya or even RC fan can visit there oneday. Im an Australian living in Malaysia, and RC stuff is cheap, but not anywhere near the Japan prices, and the UK prices are crazy. One tip a Super Stock BZ is for dirt and the TZ is for the raod and at 26,500rpm up from 16,000rpm it makes a big difference.
Do like a TT02 build. Have to say though; the aluminium arms aren’t something I’d go for. Type S or TRF420 arms are my preferred route.
@@archer8096 thanks for sharing, will def have a look into that 🙏
@@RTLRC ah no worries! I’m currently building one just for speed runs with under car aero etc. The TRF420 arm conversion is truly excellent, but not cheap. Worth exploring though!
Ich habe auch so ein blaues Monster😅 aber nur zum Anschauen im Regal😅zum Fahren taugt der 💩nicht
I have 7 TT02 I do know the performance, and dissatisfied.but some shiny body shells come with the kit are exclusive. Moreover, I spent a lot to mod these TT02 to type s grades
Nice build. I’m following your advice on the way your hooking up your steering . Someone else I know told me the same .I ordered titanium screws for my build .
I use the stock TT02 lower plastic arms . Cheaper to break and it’ll give the rest of the aluminum parts some give as to not break them . I have most of your hop ups already except I use carbon fiber battery retainer,shock towers and front bumper support to-get rid of that really heavy chunk of plastic . Also titanium screw kit , titanium and aluminum nuts top shock screws . I have on order the carbon fiber steering top brace which crosses the tops of steering posts which you show here and the sand protector and the steering link rods you have . All on the hard plastic chassis . Yeah racing sells titanium shock pivot balls with longer threads the plastic arms that strip very easy even if you careful so I figure longer is better even if I have to drill deeper .
I noticed on yours. the chassis side of the upper camber link has a lot of play in it . I shimmed mine up nice to almost no play . I Gotta shim my spur gear up soon looks like a millimeter play but may do half .
2 days ago I changed out the brushed motor for a Hobbywing 21.5 brushless system . Not crazy fast but it is faster ( maybe 22/24 mph ). Now it’s much quicker off the line and braking is so much smoother . I highly recommend it but it’s not cheap about $150 American . My goal is to Trying to keep weight low into the chassis and light and strong with aluminum and carbon fiber parts . ( if your racing with a transponder I located mine in a notched out area of the foam front bumper half way under the carbon fiber bumper support ) . My thought is if in a race that’s neck and neck whomever transponder is closest to the receiver wire Will register first . Most people put em back over the servo or something . Our tracks wire is ground level ( drive over it ) and my transponder is very close to the ground getting better reception to the race system .
@@ebandcamp wow, thanks for sharing and pleased to have helped, Ti is another level 😎
it's like racing a polished turd vs. something that's badass right out of the box
@@mhrcracing If your skill level only extends to opening boxes….
@@RTLRC Amen 🙂.
Try the Eagle Racing TT02 06P1 TSD shaft. I have the ball diff for the rear they have and it looks like the same size cup.
Great video. Where can i find the carbon fiber deck the steering bracket sits on?
I would like to hear what are the proper long wheel axles
Did you find the balls in the GPM steering rods stiff at all? I received exactly the same yesterday and found a couple of the balls to be really stiff … and I thought unusable - unless I can find a way to make them move smoother.
@@WonPXL not that I remember but just looked at my TT 02 and yes they are snug but that’s a good thing. Spray a little WD40 in and work the steering until happy it’s free enough. Cheers
Are those tyres wider than 26mm?
@@thomassalin949 yes, the rears are 32mm and come with kit 👍
Where did you get the carbon parts?
@@davidestate Hello, they are from an EBay seller, Racing Punk UK. 😎
Guten Tag wo bekomme Ich die Schrauben M 3 Hex Bolt 25 mm
Very nice Love TT02
To fit your axle's in your rear you need from Yeah Racing: TT02-017 or from Tamiya 54477
You need some 38/39 mm metal dog bones to use with your TG10 wheel axles. But i don't think they are easy to find, maybe Ebay or Ali Express
But you could get some 54394 metal universal shafts, as they also use a long axle. I use these on one of my TT02 to have a real wide stance
I buy (mostly) my hop ups from RC Mart
@@aviano72 Thank you so much for your response and advice. I will explore both options 🙏
The question is why? for fun? For the price you put in your TT02, you could have a stunning TB05, so much better
i had gpm racing stuff for my hpi racing micro rs4 25 yerz ago
@@fourmula4812 GPM make quality Alu parts, have upgraded my BBX with them. Just seem harder to find brand of late.
@@RTLRC
Very nice tt02 you need to get a better motor
For sure, just deciding whether to go brushless… 😎
日本語で喋るように❗