I've been printing terrain for about seven years now. Started on a Flashforge Dreamer, then seven Ender 3s, then Prusas. I got rid of them all for Bambu Labs printers. They are phenomenal. I've got one P1P and five P1Ses. One AMS, but I've never even done a single multi color print. Like you, I vastly prefer painting terrain, I'm also a professional terrain builder AND I'm about to open my own game store based on my terrain!
@@dextersamson8286 Apple users r just fan boys, if people like spending more money on inferior products and being told how to use the product they bought that's on them.. prusa is just slower and more expensive and if there are prusa fanboys then there's a problem lol
Joseph Prusa got caught with his pants down when core x-y hit the market. Bambu, Voron, etc. he even admitted it in a podcast a couple years ago. He really hasn’t handled it well. His machines are waaaaaaay overpriced. Especially the “upgrade” kits. How he sells any of those is amazing and shows the level of stupidity amongst the fanboys whom have more $$$ than sense.
I have a Bambu P1S and I use Bambu filaments and I don't have the color issues that you are having. BTW, there is a new setting (experimental) that can reduce some of the waste by retracting the filament before cutting. You have to enable "Develop Mode" in the Preferences dialog box. Then go to the printer settings and at the bottom of the Extruder tab you will find "Long retraction when cut". Also use the "Flush into objects' infill" and "Flush into objects' support" option in the "Others" tab. This will put more of the filament transitions into a place where you won't see them.
Have you changed any of the purge settings? I have A1 + AMS and have never had colors bleeding together. When I bought mine you could only buy them as a bundle, but if I had the choice now I would use the money for the AMS to buy filament because I rarely do multicolor prints
The Color bleed also depends on the colors you are using, ie going from dark colors to light colors. Did you use Bambu Studio to slice it? If so, you can change the amount of filament that's purged as well as the size of your "purge block" to help with the color changes. So tweaks in the slicer can help reduce the bleed. I definitely agree about painting models, except for things like the counters. Those are nice just being filament colors. So it's definitely model depend and what you are using the model for.
Also I have both a prusa mk3s+ with mmu2s and Bambu Labs X1C with its AMS. I prefer the X1C over mk3s. But I know that's not really a fair comparison since the X1C is enclosed, a corexy, newer with better tuning and speeds, etc. But I'm never getting another bed slinger. Printing large models on a bed slinger fails because of the temp changes caused by fanning the part as the bed moves. I definitely see the X1C as my best printer right now. I dont have the Prusa X1 or whatever it's called that's the up to 5 head tool changer. But it started out very poor for helping users get it working. I've heard it's a better wxperience now, but it also costs 2-3 times the cost of a BL X1C. Bambu Labs has definitely provided products at multiple price points that's just better than the others out right now.
I'm with you about painting. I really prefer painting my models over using the AMS for terrian pieces. I do like the AMS for other types of things. On the color bleed, you can change the purge length in the slicer. Orange to blue would probably need a long transition. You can also purge into the infill.
i'd love to see you do color printing WITH added shade and highlight to see what that looks like. it might save you time of the base coat? Could be a cool experiment. I see your friend at Xykit is running some new campaigns on rpg "stuff" like dice boxes that could use the multicolor printing. Wouldn't mind a review of those too!
I've been trying using PETG as a support interface on PLA prints. I've had support breakage during the print and thought that maybe the PETG was bleeding into the PLA supports. Your observations support my thoughts. So far, using Bambu Support Filament on PLA prints with a .24 Top Z distance, .4 nozzle, .08 layer size on a Bambu A1 Mini with AMS lite seems to be the way to go. Fingers crossed :)
@@gaminggeek241 I've got some 3D scans on sculptures that need support. I'm looking for a support system that works and can be released. Mr Google says that PETG doesn't bind with PLA and so makes good support. The reason for support structure failures I've been having is the cross contamination of PETG into PLA model. I've tried PVA (water soluble), but it doesn't always feed in the AMS. I've tried using the model PLA but adjust the interface layer offset, but it still doesn't come off clean and easily. My latest success is with Bambu Lab Support Filament and an offset.
@@dmpease01 Thanks for your explanation! I didn't know about PETG and PLA. I typically use PLA as support but you are correct, it is usually rough at the contact spot.
How do you set a model as a purge tower in Bambu Studio? I didn't know you could tell the machine to print a particular model first after color changes.
@@gaminggeek241 I certainly will. It arrives next week. I’m learning it’s slicer a little now - I’ve only used Cura before so I have some learning to do. Does the AMS work if I only use black PLA rolls and just replaces the one that’s empty? Or is it strictly multi-colored? I think you mentioned it in your vid that if one runs out it just keeps pumping onto the next. I am so excited for that. I do lots of large terrain and never use all my PLA because my Ender 3s would run out and print air. With this I’m hoping it’s seamless and just keeps printing when a spool runs out.
@@dr.h6493 You can set your different colors in the slicer and also set it to go from one spool to another if the first one runs out. With my first setup, I had black in both 1 & 2 and then different colors with 3 & 4. I had the AMS switch to #2 roll once #1 ran out and was also able to have multicolor with 3 & 4.
I've been printing terrain for about seven years now. Started on a Flashforge Dreamer, then seven Ender 3s, then Prusas. I got rid of them all for Bambu Labs printers. They are phenomenal. I've got one P1P and five P1Ses. One AMS, but I've never even done a single multi color print. Like you, I vastly prefer painting terrain, I'm also a professional terrain builder AND I'm about to open my own game store based on my terrain!
Prusa is extremely overpriced and sooner or later everyone will realize that and switch except for the hard headed individuals
Like apple users
@@dextersamson8286 Apple users r just fan boys, if people like spending more money on inferior products and being told how to use the product they bought that's on them.. prusa is just slower and more expensive and if there are prusa fanboys then there's a problem lol
Joseph Prusa got caught with his pants down when core x-y hit the market. Bambu, Voron, etc. he even admitted it in a podcast a couple years ago. He really hasn’t handled it well. His machines are waaaaaaay overpriced. Especially the “upgrade” kits. How he sells any of those is amazing and shows the level of stupidity amongst the fanboys whom have more $$$ than sense.
I have a Bambu P1S and I use Bambu filaments and I don't have the color issues that you are having.
BTW, there is a new setting (experimental) that can reduce some of the waste by retracting the filament before cutting. You have to enable "Develop Mode" in the Preferences dialog box. Then go to the printer settings and at the bottom of the Extruder tab you will find "Long retraction when cut".
Also use the "Flush into objects' infill" and "Flush into objects' support" option in the "Others" tab. This will put more of the filament transitions into a place where you won't see them.
Have you changed any of the purge settings? I have A1 + AMS and have never had colors bleeding together.
When I bought mine you could only buy them as a bundle, but if I had the choice now I would use the money for the AMS to buy filament because I rarely do multicolor prints
The Color bleed also depends on the colors you are using, ie going from dark colors to light colors. Did you use Bambu Studio to slice it? If so, you can change the amount of filament that's purged as well as the size of your "purge block" to help with the color changes. So tweaks in the slicer can help reduce the bleed.
I definitely agree about painting models, except for things like the counters. Those are nice just being filament colors. So it's definitely model depend and what you are using the model for.
Also I have both a prusa mk3s+ with mmu2s and Bambu Labs X1C with its AMS. I prefer the X1C over mk3s. But I know that's not really a fair comparison since the X1C is enclosed, a corexy, newer with better tuning and speeds, etc. But I'm never getting another bed slinger. Printing large models on a bed slinger fails because of the temp changes caused by fanning the part as the bed moves. I definitely see the X1C as my best printer right now. I dont have the Prusa X1 or whatever it's called that's the up to 5 head tool changer. But it started out very poor for helping users get it working. I've heard it's a better wxperience now, but it also costs 2-3 times the cost of a BL X1C.
Bambu Labs has definitely provided products at multiple price points that's just better than the others out right now.
Yeah, the Prusa XL at $2K is overpriced. I'm waiting for Bambu to come out with a larger printer!
I'm with you about painting. I really prefer painting my models over using the AMS for terrian pieces. I do like the AMS for other types of things.
On the color bleed, you can change the purge length in the slicer. Orange to blue would probably need a long transition. You can also purge into the infill.
i'd love to see you do color printing WITH added shade and highlight to see what that looks like. it might save you time of the base coat? Could be a cool experiment. I see your friend at Xykit is running some new campaigns on rpg "stuff" like dice boxes that could use the multicolor printing. Wouldn't mind a review of those too!
I've been trying using PETG as a support interface on PLA prints. I've had support breakage during the print and thought that maybe the PETG was bleeding into the PLA supports. Your observations support my thoughts. So far, using Bambu Support Filament on PLA prints with a .24 Top Z distance, .4 nozzle, .08 layer size on a Bambu A1 Mini with AMS lite seems to be the way to go. Fingers crossed :)
Can you explain to me why using PETG as support is better than just using PLA? I've heard of using water soluble filament as support but not PETG.
@@gaminggeek241 I've got some 3D scans on sculptures that need support. I'm looking for a support system that works and can be released. Mr Google says that PETG doesn't bind with PLA and so makes good support. The reason for support structure failures I've been having is the cross contamination of PETG into PLA model.
I've tried PVA (water soluble), but it doesn't always feed in the AMS. I've tried using the model PLA but adjust the interface layer offset, but it still doesn't come off clean and easily. My latest success is with Bambu Lab Support Filament and an offset.
@@dmpease01 Thanks for your explanation! I didn't know about PETG and PLA. I typically use PLA as support but you are correct, it is usually rough at the contact spot.
You can use a model as a purge tower. So you get an extra object and no poop.
How do you set a model as a purge tower in Bambu Studio? I didn't know you could tell the machine to print a particular model first after color changes.
@@gaminggeek241 its called purge to object. There are many vids on how to reduce ams waste and this is the main way.
You sir, are a YT legend to me! I purchased both of these after conversing with you about just this via comments! Thank you so much!
Tell me what you think after you have had a chance to run it!
@@gaminggeek241 I certainly will. It arrives next week. I’m learning it’s slicer a little now - I’ve only used Cura before so I have some learning to do. Does the AMS work if I only use black PLA rolls and just replaces the one that’s empty? Or is it strictly multi-colored? I think you mentioned it in your vid that if one runs out it just keeps pumping onto the next. I am so excited for that. I do lots of large terrain and never use all my PLA because my Ender 3s would run out and print air. With this I’m hoping it’s seamless and just keeps printing when a spool runs out.
@@dr.h6493 You can set your different colors in the slicer and also set it to go from one spool to another if the first one runs out. With my first setup, I had black in both 1 & 2 and then different colors with 3 & 4. I had the AMS switch to #2 roll once #1 ran out and was also able to have multicolor with 3 & 4.