Good video the Triumph tool to remove the filter looks different What exact torque wrench are you using I need to buy one I love changing my oil it’s like changing your babies diapers
You know, that’s what I thought too when I was changing it. It was about 1050 miles, but now I remember that it was done at the first service interval around 600 miles or so. I guess it wasn’t necessary, but it’s force of habit to dormit at the start of the riding season.
Haven’t removed mine yet, but all you need to do is look inside your exhaust tip. On top you’ll see a Torx screw that has a bit of weld on it. You need to break that weld (dremmel tool for example) and remove that screw. Then you take pliers and forcefully pull out the baffle. You’ll likely need to spray some lubricant in there between the baffle and the exhaust housing to help the process. If that doesn’t work then you need to take off the muffler and tap out the baffle from the other end.
@@maniabraham23that’s odd. It should be right inside the tip where the exhaust gas comes out, probably covered in black soot since it’s an inch or so inside that little tube.
@TheSunderlands1 I saw this in a forum. Only the version that goes to the US and euro 5 compliant has that torn screw. For other countries it does not have it :-(
I use a stand made by Pitbull, they are pricey but I got mine used. My other larger stand from Oxford did not work in lifting the bike. To check the oil I lower the stand since the bike should be level as S why I have the front stand that barely lifts the front wheel to keep the bike steady.
@@TheSunderlands1 i think all it means is you have to add more to the fill hole. The filter holds about 200mil. Also the filter gauze will absorb a bit . Maybe it circulates the oil quicker rather than seconds to fill the filter with oil. guessing.
You’re right, I’m so used to changing it at the beginning of the season…forgot it had basically just been changed. Guess it was a bit of a waste of money…ah well.
@@TheSunderlands1 I have the same bike and only have 250mi.on it. Changed mine already too. I'm using BelRay 10w50 Vtwin synthetic. It's engineered for air cooled HD engines and supposedly lowers operating temps by 10 degrees. You can find it online for $15 per quart.
Belray 10w50 V Twin synthetic has an additive package designed to handle the extreme temps of large displacement high performance HD engines. I've yet to have my fan kick on once. Castrol engineered the oil that comes in my bike from the factory. It's semi synthetic and I dumped it after a 50mi. break in. Castrol has been sued over the marketing of the oil as synthetic, but not "fully synthetic". In other words it's a scam!
![SPEED TWIN Customisation [4/4] - I think it's time to stop](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/S1BKYm6rLk8/mqdefault.jpg)
![SPEED TWIN Customisation [4/4] - I think it's time to stop](/img/tr.png)
thank you for doing this video it always helps watching somebody doing it before you tackle a job !
Thank you for posting this!
Good video the Triumph tool to remove the filter looks different
What exact torque wrench are you using I need to buy one
I love changing my oil it’s like changing your babies diapers
Helpful, thank you.
What make and model are your paddock stands please?
That oil seemed pretty clean. How many miles are you changing it at?
You know, that’s what I thought too when I was changing it. It was about 1050 miles, but now I remember that it was done at the first service interval around 600 miles or so. I guess it wasn’t necessary, but it’s force of habit to dormit at the start of the riding season.
Weird how they give you access to the oil filter but not the drain plug.
this oil filter looks like it came off tightened at a lot more than 10Nm eh?
Can you please post a video of how to remove the db killer from the exhaust
Haven’t removed mine yet, but all you need to do is look inside your exhaust tip. On top you’ll see a Torx screw that has a bit of weld on it. You need to break that weld (dremmel tool for example) and remove that screw. Then you take pliers and forcefully pull out the baffle. You’ll likely need to spray some lubricant in there between the baffle and the exhaust housing to help the process. If that doesn’t work then you need to take off the muffler and tap out the baffle from the other end.
@TheSunderlands1 thank you. My exhaust doesn't have the torx screw and weld. I think I need to try the other option. Remove the mufler and check
@@maniabraham23that’s odd. It should be right inside the tip where the exhaust gas comes out, probably covered in black soot since it’s an inch or so inside that little tube.
@TheSunderlands1 I saw this in a forum. Only the version that goes to the US and euro 5 compliant has that torn screw. For other countries it does not have it :-(
👍👍👍
Thanks a lot for this. When you put the filter back on, do you just tighten it by hand until snug?
I actually torque it down to the required 18 ft-lbs, however hand tight should be fine as well.
Another question: what’s the inner-diameter of that wrench tool to remove the oil filter? Thank you 🙏🏼
where do you get the crush washer?
what do you use to lift up the back wheel? i need to get that. when it's lifted on that...do you check the oil level through the window?
I use a stand made by Pitbull, they are pricey but I got mine used. My other larger stand from Oxford did not work in lifting the bike. To check the oil I lower the stand since the bike should be level as S why I have the front stand that barely lifts the front wheel to keep the bike steady.
Why didnt you fill the filter first?
You know, I’ve never thought of that. For bikes and cars I never fill the filter first.
@@TheSunderlands1 i think all it means is you have to add more to the fill hole. The filter holds about 200mil.
Also the filter gauze will absorb a bit . Maybe it circulates the oil quicker rather than seconds to fill the filter with oil. guessing.
If you changed the oil at the 600mi. service, you really didn't need to do it again until 5-6k. IMHO 10k. is too long.
You’re right, I’m so used to changing it at the beginning of the season…forgot it had basically just been changed. Guess it was a bit of a waste of money…ah well.
@@TheSunderlands1 I have the same bike and only have 250mi.on it. Changed mine already too. I'm using BelRay 10w50 Vtwin synthetic. It's engineered for air cooled HD engines and supposedly lowers operating temps by 10 degrees. You can find it online for $15 per quart.
@@andrewbecker3700 why do you think its a good idea to use an oil designed for air cooled harleys in a liquid cooled triumph ?
Belray 10w50 V Twin synthetic has an additive package designed to handle the extreme temps of large displacement high performance HD engines. I've yet to have my fan kick on once. Castrol engineered the oil that comes in my bike from the factory. It's semi synthetic and I dumped it after a 50mi. break in. Castrol has been sued over the marketing of the oil as synthetic, but not "fully synthetic". In other words it's a scam!