We hope all of you are safe and taking care of yourselves during this tough time and if our videos are helping you enjoy your day a little bit more then even better! Stay safe and may the Speed be with you all!
Speed Academy the slipping and tighter is from the washers not being rough enough to bite into the head ( sand the side toward the head )!. Redoing the head studs with rough washer will solve your issues
Couple of questions guys, why'd you decide to retain the balance shafts? They're only designed to counter vibration in a stock unbalanced rotating assembly. There's no benefit to retaining it in the likes of your set up and really it's just another belt to fly off and take out your timing (which is quite common) as well as lower maximum horsepower. Would you consider adjustable cam gears? They really help ya get the most out of these.
Keep making the mistakes and keep them in your video’s, it’s life, we all do it, even master tech’s do it occasionally.... don’t do as other youtubers do, hide their mistakes. There’s a reason why we have mechanics and training courses :)
I thought I was going to be the only guy to say that. My OCD is triggered. There’s the other bracket that’s rusty too. :D. Awesome build, great work :P
dudes, it's a fresh build...take 5 minutes to paint those cast iron pieces black. it's literally a 5 minute job i love fresh engine builds...keep up the good work
Loving the build so far but had a tech tip from building all the Dsm and Galant VR4 engines with the timing tensioner. The factory manual says that when tensioning the belt you should be able to slide the tensioner locking pin in and out when the belt is at the correct tension. Once that is done cycle the engine 2 times and recheck after 10 mins. Something I've done and rechecking it after cycling it can change the tension. Keep up the build! Waiting to see this thing running and killing that STi. 😁
That plate mistake reminds me of the first time I put my engine back in my stang and forgot the crankshaft trigger gear and had to take the accessories and timing cover to put it on. Lol, good times.
You are correct in saying the 4/5/6 has a smaller diameter bolt. In the UK it’s common for us to drill the trigger wheel out to accept the bigger bolt from a 7/8/9. I believe it’s due to GSC being an American company and the cams are developed for the later evo’s 👍🏼
There is a billet rear housing for that seal. Also as you may know evos are known for too much oil pressure, I would’ve had that oil pan modified to accept more oil. Huy Tran from in-line racing modifies the stock oil pans and makes an awesome job. I have one on my car and it showed no loss of oil pressure all the way to 9000 Rpms.
Mine is still on the road after 60K miles with me and who knows how many with it's new owner. I deleted the balance shaft and had been running "too much" oil pressure for almost 10 years. No issues at all.
21:40 been there, done that. I changed the clutch on my Miata in December, had the transmission back on and seated in the pilot bearing, had a couple of bolts already started, then realized I forgot the large plate that goes between the block and the flywheel. So I basically had to drop the transmission again, and remove and reinstall the clutch and flywheel again. Oh man I was livid. But in the end it only added about 3 hours of work to the month-long job.
I love this build, just reminds me of all the dreams I had for the Eagle Talon I bought and never got to. I always wanted to get the FWD, do an AWD swap, but keep the motor NA and build it for high compression and high revs. There are NA 4G63 pushing past 10,000 RPM...and they sound wicked.
The sudden release you are feeling while torquing the head is the head gasket embossment getting squished/crushed and bottoming, kind of like a spring compressing till it is all the way down, completely normal...
When I switched to an ATI damper for my Miata I discovered a little trick. I used the old crank timing pulley to lock the cam gears in place. The cogs fit together and hold the cams at tdc. Won't work for all cars but it's worth a try if you have the spare parts.
Love watching you guys, it's just like watching me; put it together, take it apart cause you forgot something, break something, forget something, put it back together.
Love this build guys, keep kicking ass and I love how you guys show mistakes. I've done so many and it always turns out that 1hour job turned into 2-3 hour job hahaha
great work guys, i love the technical stuff you put in the video! You are teaching and inspiring the next generation of tuners, engine builder etc. Keep it up, i would also like to see how you setup the evo for the track when its done
@speedacadamy if you are using aftermarket rods with the tomei windage tray and crank scraper. You have to modify the scraper as the rods slightly hit it. So you have to trim it. Especially with Manley turbo tough rods
Good stuff. My only worry when doing these timing belt stuff is making sure the oil pump balancer isn't 180 degrees out of sync. It's easy to get caught as it lines up pretty similar, but you'll find the car doesn't want to rev past 4000 and starts making a weird noise. If you get that, shut off and take it back down
Love following your projects. Both of you area always so upbeat! One comment is that engine mount. I'd have tossed that in some metal rescue to clean it up, then a coat of paint. The rest of engine looks so great!
Hopefully you guys are going with a larger turbo, stock frame size for response. Tubular manifolds tend to crack and reduce turbo response, FP cast is the gold standard upgrade.
I got the same thing when torquing my head studs, def an “ohh shit” moment hahah i also popped my valve cover off after a few heat cycles and torqued them down again, they didn’t really move any more, but good peace of mind
That slip is due to the washers for the nuts turning. I usually sand the washer side thats facing the head to give it a rough surface to sort of catch it so it doesnt slip. Only lube the thread and the washer side thats facing the nut's base. That slippage will give you false torque reading. It might not be the end of the world but every little bit helps. Stay safe guys.
You over come the stiction i.e ‘slip’ before you get to add torque as friction ramps up again. Stiction is the friction you need to come come before something moves.
If you had left the valve cover off while installing the timing belt, you probably could have used 2 wrenches on the camshaft flats, held together with vise grips, like the common procedure with Miata engines, to prevent the cam gears from moving while installing the belt.
Did you guys clean the threads in the block before dropping the ARP studs in? Could be dirt in the threads causing the studs to have that slip feeling.
The slip motion is the washer slipping against the head. Google it. Notorious, can cause over-torque. Some persons recommend sanding or creating a rough surface on the side of the washer that goes against the head.
lifters should have assembly lube on them and they should not be pumped up, there is an internal spring inside that keeps the tension on startup, pumping them causes the lifter to hydraulic on start up and on a brand new cam this can wipe out the lobe. The air will bleed out on startup
yep, forgot the plastic back cover when i did the timing, had to pull everything apart, and just like the 4g63, opel's a16 cams are preloaded at TDC, so that was fun... twice... :D
Lads, quick question. With the cam card will come the cam timing position BTDC and you just installing the standard cam pulleys, are you not intending to fit vernier pulleys to make the most of the cams?
Steve Blakemore omg yes! Its a great practice no matter what! I did a video, not talking about indexing but about cam timing using adjustable tensioners on a Subaru motor. With 4 cams and 3 machined mating surfaces, cam degreeing is a must!
please put in hks cam gears and the housing bolt is different because is an 8 or 9 engine and evo 9 engines are stronger with only camshaft and 30 psi of boost you can make 450-500hp
Why didnt you delete the balance shafts and save yourself the possibility of the tiny balance shaft belt breaking and at the same time gett some free hp not having to drive the shafts?
oh lord so many little small details that could have been done. OEM 9 Gasket is king. Delete balance shafts if you aiming for an ""sti killer and not street car"" the oem 8/9 lifters are better , also you BLEED THEM AND INSTALL WITH NO OIL. they need to be empty so the correct LOBE of the camshaft can fill them up to its desired pressure, now you run the risk of having a rocker arm falling(they are full to youd "hand pressure spec" and cannot fill correctly. Head studs are better to intall without head, you had to use an allen wrench and then your hand to kinda see if they where in hand-tight or not. You put the head on and then torqued while the pistons where at TDC, then installed the camshaft and the valves are now open and close and dont know your Piston to valve clearence and have 2 cylinders sitting up top. the next day you should pour some break in oil on each stud and torque really slow to 100 pound feet torque, idk where you got 80 thats kinda scary lol. When you torqued the timing brackets you where fighting your own force to keep the shaft in one place. You are investing in keeping oil in the pan but yet using OEM HLA instead of a kiggly. You are investing in arp headstuds but are using OEM main Bolts, make sure the mains are not being used twice i believe these are one time Torque to Yield. Most important you need to build pressure in the engine before you start it. You gotta put the oil pan with the oil filter, block off the turbo cyl feed with a bolt , put a drill on the oil pump and go very slowly, you want to run a few gallons of oil thru the engine and oil filter first without putting any timing belts on the engine. Now that you have the timing on you have no other option but to dry start or ignition cut rotate the entire assembly DRY to build Oil pressure.
I'm surprised you didn't take the opportunity to paint the mounts under the timing components. I know you mentioned not wanting to delete the balance shafts, but I think a BS delete is better. Perhaps your experience was from using inferior parts instead of OEM parts. The BS delete removes several pounds of mass from the crank and frees up several horsepower in doing so. But there is no harm in using the balance belts other than the fear of it breaking.
Check out the most recent Celica build videos, in Canada, they say "Celleeka", in USA, "Cellicka", they got lots of nasty comments about pronouncing it wrong (as though they wouldn't know). Turns out it is pronounced "Celleeka" in a lot of places. So they made a shirt to have fun with it - shows they don't take it too seriously...
@@jp2246 - i think you'd need to bleed out the oil from the lifters and leave it compressible on install so it can adjust automatically. Thats how I've done it before. You don't have to take the cams out to get them out, just use a screwdriver to pry the rockers out sideways, pull the lifters out, bleed them out and push/snap the rockers back in.
We hope all of you are safe and taking care of yourselves during this tough time and if our videos are helping you enjoy your day a little bit more then even better! Stay safe and may the Speed be with you all!
Speed Academy the slipping and tighter is from the washers not being rough enough to bite into the head ( sand the side toward the head )!. Redoing the head studs with rough washer will solve your issues
I believed the 2 little holes on the timing belt tensioner pulley are supposed to be on top (rotated clockwise)
Do you need to add rtv under the first cam caps where it is metal on metal like on a 2j head?
21:56 Easy Breezy Beautiful, Covergirl lololol
Couple of questions guys, why'd you decide to retain the balance shafts? They're only designed to counter vibration in a stock unbalanced rotating assembly. There's no benefit to retaining it in the likes of your set up and really it's just another belt to fly off and take out your timing (which is quite common) as well as lower maximum horsepower.
Would you consider adjustable cam gears? They really help ya get the most out of these.
Keep making the mistakes and keep them in your video’s, it’s life, we all do it, even master tech’s do it occasionally.... don’t do as other youtubers do, hide their mistakes. There’s a reason why we have mechanics and training courses :)
PT, buddy, you could have trown a little paint on the engine mounting bracket... loving the build so far.
I thought I was going to be the only guy to say that. My OCD is triggered. There’s the other bracket that’s rusty too. :D. Awesome build, great work :P
OMG YES!
Yeah, why go throught all the effort of restoring the motor, painting the block and stuff, and not paint the engine mounting bracket? Weird...
its not to late, brush on some black!
Patina
dudes, it's a fresh build...take 5 minutes to paint those cast iron pieces black. it's literally a 5 minute job
i love fresh engine builds...keep up the good work
Believe it or not we dont have 5 minutes at times. The schedule to pump these videos out is a tough one.
Loving the build so far but had a tech tip from building all the Dsm and Galant VR4 engines with the timing tensioner. The factory manual says that when tensioning the belt you should be able to slide the tensioner locking pin in and out when the belt is at the correct tension. Once that is done cycle the engine 2 times and recheck after 10 mins. Something I've done and rechecking it after cycling it can change the tension. Keep up the build! Waiting to see this thing running and killing that STi. 😁
I love when an engine goes together. Better than any ASMR video!
That plate mistake reminds me of the first time I put my engine back in my stang and forgot the crankshaft trigger gear and had to take the accessories and timing cover to put it on. Lol, good times.
Watched this while drinking my morning coffee and it felt like a normal day for a minute. Thank you Speed Academy! Keep up the good work.
You are correct in saying the 4/5/6 has a smaller diameter bolt. In the UK it’s common for us to drill the trigger wheel out to accept the bigger bolt from a 7/8/9. I believe it’s due to GSC being an American company and the cams are developed for the later evo’s 👍🏼
There is a billet rear housing for that seal. Also as you may know evos are known for too much oil pressure, I would’ve had that oil pan modified to accept more oil. Huy Tran from in-line racing modifies the stock oil pans and makes an awesome job. I have one on my car and it showed no loss of oil pressure all the way to 9000 Rpms.
Do you own an Evo
Mine is still on the road after 60K miles with me and who knows how many with it's new owner. I deleted the balance shaft and had been running "too much" oil pressure for almost 10 years. No issues at all.
building car with A yeah 2003 evo 8
Robert Young it all depended how high you rev the car. You can have many miles if you don’t abuse the car like some people do it can last for ever.
21:40 been there, done that. I changed the clutch on my Miata in December, had the transmission back on and seated in the pilot bearing, had a couple of bolts already started, then realized I forgot the large plate that goes between the block and the flywheel. So I basically had to drop the transmission again, and remove and reinstall the clutch and flywheel again. Oh man I was livid. But in the end it only added about 3 hours of work to the month-long job.
Now I want to smell a Greddy timing belt lol
He was lookin a little stony during that part lol
All down hill from there, until you do not notice how bad transmission fluid stinks......petrolheaditis.
they made me want to buy one just to smell it LOL
I love this build, just reminds me of all the dreams I had for the Eagle Talon I bought and never got to. I always wanted to get the FWD, do an AWD swap, but keep the motor NA and build it for high compression and high revs. There are NA 4G63 pushing past 10,000 RPM...and they sound wicked.
I’ve taking this engine apart quite a few times and trust me I forget to many times lol. So don’t feel bad
The sudden release you are feeling while torquing the head is the head gasket embossment getting squished/crushed and bottoming, kind of like a spring compressing till it is all the way down, completely normal...
When I switched to an ATI damper for my Miata I discovered a little trick. I used the old crank timing pulley to lock the cam gears in place. The cogs fit together and hold the cams at tdc. Won't work for all cars but it's worth a try if you have the spare parts.
Very cool trick!
Love watching you guys, it's just like watching me; put it together, take it apart cause you forgot something, break something, forget something, put it back together.
Honesty and transparency - how refreshing and it keeps me looking forward to the next video. Thanks.
Love this build guys, keep kicking ass and I love how you guys show mistakes. I've done so many and it always turns out that 1hour job turned into 2-3 hour job hahaha
great work guys, i love the technical stuff you put in the video! You are teaching and inspiring the next generation of tuners, engine builder etc. Keep it up, i would also like to see how you setup the evo for the track when its done
Also using GSC Zero tock lifters in my Airtrek Turbo. Best choice ever made.
Great explanation on the oil baffle! Glad to see this thing coming together.
Nicely done!!! Looks good guys!! 4g63 for the win!!
@speedacadamy if you are using aftermarket rods with the tomei windage tray and crank scraper. You have to modify the scraper as the rods slightly hit it. So you have to trim it. Especially with Manley turbo tough rods
You guys are the best! Love following your builds, clearly done to a high standard with attention and detail!
Love this build guys, can't wait to see the Evo dispatch that STi 😊
Super keen to see the results with the S1's. Since almost everyone goes S2's which i think is overkill for a daily. Awesome content boys.
I read your article, it was informative. Thanks for pointing it out to us. I never knew there was so much thought that went into a gasket.
Good stuff. My only worry when doing these timing belt stuff is making sure the oil pump balancer isn't 180 degrees out of sync. It's easy to get caught as it lines up pretty similar, but you'll find the car doesn't want to rev past 4000 and starts making a weird noise. If you get that, shut off and take it back down
Love following your projects. Both of you area always so upbeat! One comment is that engine mount. I'd have tossed that in some metal rescue to clean it up, then a coat of paint. The rest of engine looks so great!
nice video guys 👍
Hopefully you guys are going with a larger turbo, stock frame size for response. Tubular manifolds tend to crack and reduce turbo response, FP cast is the gold standard upgrade.
My favorite build! Motor looks good! Clean your hands!
Love the in-depth videos, makes me wanna assemble my 4g63 🤔
The slippage torque sequence was common on arp studs.. lsxmatt also mention it on his latest video (ls engine though)
amazing job guys not 1 thumb up but 2 for all the hard work that both of you do 👍🏻👍🏻
I got the same thing when torquing my head studs, def an “ohh shit” moment hahah i also popped my valve cover off after a few heat cycles and torqued them down again, they didn’t really move any more, but good peace of mind
Great job so far guys! I hope you torqued those head bolts down the proper way do you don't get any binding on the gasket.
Awesome build guys, cant wait to hear this one run.
Make sure you fit the Kiggly oil pressure reducer as well as the tommi oil scrapper as this stops oil sitting in the head.
Loving the videos I have a 1996 evo 4 n I’m looking at doing the timing n your video was very helpful.
The sliping is often due to grease between the washer and the head, it will cause the washer to turn with the nut insted of staying in place.
You can buy cam holders for doing DOHC timing belts. They make the job much nicer to do.
That slip is due to the washers for the nuts turning. I usually sand the washer side thats facing the head to give it a rough surface to sort of catch it so it doesnt slip. Only lube the thread and the washer side thats facing the nut's base.
That slippage will give you false torque reading. It might not be the end of the world but every little bit helps.
Stay safe guys.
I freakn love this channel.
Man it’s going to be a ripper!!
11:28 Evo 4-7 must use Evo 8 trigger bolt according to the note. Isn't that the bolt you're talking about in 13:39?
You over come the stiction i.e ‘slip’ before you get to add torque as friction ramps up again. Stiction is the friction you need to come come before something moves.
James T isn’t that the same as inertia?
If you had left the valve cover off while installing the timing belt, you probably could have used 2 wrenches on the camshaft flats, held together with vise grips, like the common procedure with Miata engines, to prevent the cam gears from moving while installing the belt.
yikes.. that beautiful new engine and you didn't paint the front motor mount? ...
Paint those rusty mounts! ;) Love the series.
Love this, thank you!!!
love that celica shirt
Great series guys, just a thought was there no need for a new crank bolt on this engine on re-assembly? Or did we miss it?
You guys rock! Keep them coming👌
love the toe-may-to T!
Are you guys going to get around to fixing this car after the tuner blowup and get it on the road again?
Dang Pete you should have sanded or painted the rusty timing chain pieces
Did you guys clean the threads in the block before dropping the ARP studs in? Could be dirt in the threads causing the studs to have that slip feeling.
The slip motion is the washer slipping against the head. Google it. Notorious, can cause over-torque. Some persons recommend sanding or creating a rough surface on the side of the washer that goes against the head.
Hey guys
whats the song at 12:00 ?
i didn't see a credit for it.
No kiggly HLA plate? Even though your lifters have been upgraded I think it would help with oil control.
lifters should have assembly lube on them and they should not be pumped up, there is an internal spring inside that keeps the tension on startup, pumping them causes the lifter to hydraulic on start up and on a brand new cam this can wipe out the lobe. The air will bleed out on startup
Another great video. I love the projects you guys are doing. But come on man... Those two rusty brackets gotta GO! :)
Does hp academy have a section in their website on how to properly degree your camshaft since now they are aftermarket?
Wondering if you looked at variable cam gears, and if so why you didn't use them?
This isnt a 1000whp build so its not worth the investment for us.
That shirt made me laugh, it took me a tad longer to get than I'd like to admit.
My ARP torque recommended 85ft.lb and really interested on 0 tick lifter let us know how it performs
Good video 🚗
Worldpac I remember working there. Fun job delivering car parts to awesome shops. Do they drive Prius' in Canada also?
the worldpac delivery driver that comes to our shop drives a prius :)
Our Worldpac driver has a RAV4.
I don't understand the sti killer moniker, are you implying this will be faster than a stock sti? or an sti with a fully built engine like this?
yep, forgot the plastic back cover when i did the timing, had to pull everything apart, and just like the 4g63, opel's a16 cams are preloaded at TDC, so that was fun... twice... :D
I cant wait next episode :)
You guys are living the dream! Keep up the good work. I enjoy watching your video's very much.
what torque wrench r u guys using?
Did you lube the bottom of the washers or leave them dry?
why did y'all install the head studs dry?
Wouldn't the cutter create a slight imbalance due to only working on half the crank?
No adjustable cam gears? 😅
عمل جيد
يارفاق وشكرا لكم.
Why not paint the engine mount
How do you order parts from turn 14? Their site seems like you have to be an authorized dealer to buy from them.
Lads, quick question. With the cam card will come the cam timing position BTDC and you just installing the standard cam pulleys, are you not intending to fit vernier pulleys to make the most of the cams?
Steve Blakemore omg yes! Its a great practice no matter what! I did a video, not talking about indexing but about cam timing using adjustable tensioners on a Subaru motor. With 4 cams and 3 machined mating surfaces, cam degreeing is a must!
Awesome dudes!!
can you ugys please show us how to remove the rear bumper . i have a evo 4 gsr in JP!!
HP Academy Pro Tip, Yogen Fruz Cup for bleeding lifters! :)
please put in hks cam gears and the housing bolt is different because is an 8 or 9 engine and evo 9 engines are stronger with only camshaft and 30 psi of boost you can make 450-500hp
building car with A and absolutely fuck all torque
I can’t believe you are using the standard cam pulleys.
Nice shirt Dave 😂
Where can I buy the celica pronunciation shirts?
why u didnt use stock head gasket adn OEM belt?
Reliability. Trying to make more power means upgrading the headgasket. OEM belt is fine but we like the assurance of the stronger belt over time.
@@speedacademy OEM gasket and OEM belt is better then tuned parts,proven on practice
My OCD hates that rusty bracket sticking out the front😂but looks the goods otherwise👌🏼
Where can I get that sti engine assembly lube? /s
The solution is solid lifters. Lol. Because adjusting is fun.
Why didnt you delete the balance shafts and save yourself the possibility of the tiny balance shaft belt breaking and at the same time gett some free hp not having to drive the shafts?
Not sure if you have heard of RTM Racing www.rtmracing.com but they are out of Stoney Creek, Ontario and cater to the Mitsubishi crowd.
oh lord so many little small details that could have been done.
OEM 9 Gasket is king.
Delete balance shafts if you aiming for an ""sti killer and not street car""
the oem 8/9 lifters are better , also you BLEED THEM AND INSTALL WITH NO OIL.
they need to be empty so the correct LOBE of the camshaft can fill them up to its desired pressure, now you run the risk of having a rocker arm falling(they are full to youd "hand pressure spec" and cannot fill correctly.
Head studs are better to intall without head, you had to use an allen wrench and then your hand to kinda see if they where in hand-tight or not.
You put the head on and then torqued while the pistons where at TDC, then installed the camshaft and the valves are now open and close and dont know your Piston to valve clearence and have 2 cylinders sitting up top.
the next day you should pour some break in oil on each stud and torque really slow to 100 pound feet torque, idk where you got 80 thats kinda scary lol.
When you torqued the timing brackets you where fighting your own force to keep the shaft in one place.
You are investing in keeping oil in the pan but yet using OEM HLA instead of a kiggly.
You are investing in arp headstuds but are using OEM main Bolts, make sure the mains are not being used twice i believe these are one time Torque to Yield.
Most important you need to build pressure in the engine before you start it. You gotta put the oil pan with the oil filter, block off the turbo cyl feed with a bolt , put a drill on the oil pump and go very slowly, you want to run a few gallons of oil thru the engine and oil filter first without putting any timing belts on the engine. Now that you have the timing on you have no other option but to dry start or ignition cut rotate the entire assembly DRY to build Oil pressure.
You should watch your disassembly video before reassembly!you won't miss steps 😆
I'm surprised you didn't take the opportunity to paint the mounts under the timing components. I know you mentioned not wanting to delete the balance shafts, but I think a BS delete is better. Perhaps your experience was from using inferior parts instead of OEM parts. The BS delete removes several pounds of mass from the crank and frees up several horsepower in doing so. But there is no harm in using the balance belts other than the fear of it breaking.
www.jackstransmissions.com/blogs/pages/keep-your-balance-shafts
Evo 6 Cam pos trigger wheel has a smaller diameter bolt. Someone already upgraded the cams to 8/9 if it had the bigger bolt on it.
Check out the most recent Celica build videos, in Canada, they say "Celleeka", in USA, "Cellicka", they got lots of nasty comments about pronouncing it wrong (as though they wouldn't know). Turns out it is pronounced "Celleeka" in a lot of places. So they made a shirt to have fun with it - shows they don't take it too seriously...
@@jp2246 - i think you'd need to bleed out the oil from the lifters and leave it compressible on install so it can adjust automatically. Thats how I've done it before. You don't have to take the cams out to get them out, just use a screwdriver to pry the rockers out sideways, pull the lifters out, bleed them out and push/snap the rockers back in.
Surprised you guys did not clean up the timing tuff