Can do nothing but respect your content these visuals help me so much more because the manual can often be broad on information, rebuilt my engine and just got it in the frame almost done. 💪🏽
@@Benjamminoutdoors Thats a mistake, you blow it and it goes back to the engine, every time you send the block or head to the machine shop you have to clean it, imagine these tiny dust particles that can get stuck anywhere, specialy on a surface with oil or gasoline that can make it more hard to clean
@@lucasgarcia2353 dust particles can always get in unless you’re doing the rebuild in a secure and clean environment. Yeah I know I should’ve resurfaced ahead before I put it together (I did that in my current video) but after I resurfaced it and blasted it out with 150 psi I put it together immediately so no particles could I get in after that. The motor has been running flawlessly super powerful for about 3000 miles now so I don’t think that I have any problems clearly if I was a professional with professional tools I’d be doing it probably differently but I’m just some guy that’s only rebuilt three motors and I’m still learning, so I’m pretty happy with the outcome.
Great work as always Benjammin - you have skills and attitude way beyond your years - it's a pleasure to watch you work - thank you once again for sharing!
Amazing video, but why when you unbolting the head, you just go one way, instead of unbolting the screws from outside to inside, that way preventing possible head distortion. Same thing when you putting head back, just useing opposite pattern (from inside to outside). Anyway awesome video, Thanks for putting it out, I have learned a lot!!! 🙋♂️👌👍
Every day life with me is that what you were trying to say because when I read it it did not look like that, I thought you said I did not have many ads in the video and so I said I didn’t really care.
when you sand down the cylinder block ( from 18:07 and onward ) little debrises may fall inside. Evantually these little debris may scratch your cylinder wall. i think you should have done it earlier.
Damn man, I knicked the corner of my oil pan on my 07 600 on a curb and didn’t realize it had leaked all of the oil out until it spun a bearing not long after. I bought a used engine off eBay for $800.. checked the valves and threw a new set of plugs in it and threw it in. Still running fine 6 years later lol
Nice work man!I only change oil and filters on my cbr and bleeding the brakes.I would be afraid of doing such a job even I had a tech manual. Otherwise you could weld the hole instead of swaping the block.I.My cbr had exactly the same impact from r&g crashpads as I was crashed it and the shop fixed it by welding and shaving the block and cylinderhead replacing the headgasket with a new one and new rubber rings on the valves if I say these right.Now after 13000 km is still runing great. If you find some free time can you make a video how to change coolant on cbr because I had seen many but all they do not do corectly from the drain bolt and how to flush properly.Sorry for my bad english I am from Greece.Keep on the good work!
Really enjoyed the vid man, very informative for sure. The only thing I didn't get is why did you decide to resurface the bottom end and head once u rebuilt it with the pistons and everything attached. Wouldnt you be dropping sand particles into the engine, either way good job bud 👍 I need to resurface mine also as I'm looking at 0.20mm warp on the cam chain side and its stating 0.10mm max clearance...not sure if that's common or not. Would I get away with just resurfacing the head only.
As you disassemble the engine the sensation borders on fear. It's too much knowledge man. I am fascinated by your work! I had to subscribe, fantastic channel!
You shouldn't mix block halfs/cases as those are machined toghether just like cylinder head with cam holders. You got lucky, I learned this the hard way building Bandit 400. When bolts got torqued to spec, crankshaft wouldn't move at all. Nice job but this one thing is rather critical.
18:26, why did you resurface the deck after you installed the pistons? I would have been concerned aluminum oxide from the sandpaper and aluminum dust would drop into the crevice volume between the top compression ring and crown, introducing debris which could score the cylinder walls.
A note of caution: Never wedge a tool or something against the mating surfaces to get things loose. You will damage the mating surfaces it won't seal properly.
@Andre Ungerer that’s the valve cover, not that bad. And yeah it’s not technically right I’m well aware but I’m not a professional so I don’t always do things 100% by the book (I’m not proud of it I’m always working to get better) . I would never do that on cases or or the head.
Hey Ben, I've run into a issue with my 05 cbr600rr and now am having to do an head gasket replacement. I'm having difficulties on how to do the timing though. I have not begun the teardown yet because i want to be certain in the process as far as TDC and making sure it is timed in sync with the cams before cylinder head removal. If you could give me a brief rundown on the process it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Sorry for the late response, but In the service manual it tells you how to set everything at TDC. You can join some Facebook groups for your specific bike and most the time someone has a digital copy of the manual
I assume the engine you bought had some serious problem that you decided to strip both and rebuild. You should remove head bolts in the opposite way to how you showed tightening them, it's more likely to warp coming off than going on.
I just wanted to have a fresh build the one that I purchased was definitely neglected, but I will Definitely keep that in mind next time I do a rebuild, there were a few things that I didn’t do the way I should have but it’s running great right now and I’ll be torture testing once I break it in.
Remove - outside to in. Tighten - inside to out. Both in a criss-cross pattern, evenly. Don't fully do one bolt then on to the next, it needs to be a few turns evenly over all of them until fully loose/tight. Ben did any which way to remove, outside to in when torqueing down. Some of the comments to correct him are incorrect. Ben - good job in getting stuck in, and being honest about your mistakes. This loosen/tighten patten applies to the cam caps too.
there is no need to resurface if there is no obvious reason. And especially the way you did it can cause more harm than benefit , not to mention that you did it with the engine half assembled, so now you have all the crap inside your engine.
Is there a certain way the crank has to go back in to ensure the pistons have the correct orientation? Like to get it back to TDC? Need to know before I re assemble mine? Thanks
The crank can only go in one way. Your pistons should have an arrow mark on the indicating which direction they should face which would be the front of the bike.
@@Benjamminoutdoors thanks for getting back with me on it. Maybe I should’ve worded a little bit better, is there a certain orientation the crank needs to be in to get the pistons back to TDC or does it matter? Just set the crank and begin putting pistons back in and spin the crank until it gets to TDC? Also what are the clearances that need to be checked for when swapping cases? Thanks a lot.
I haven’t tried to do it while the motor was assembled, but you’re probably gonna have to remove the cams and the chain to pull it out the top or bottom I would think so you’re probably gonna have to pull the valve cover off and the cams out regardless.
I admire you courage but please read the manual first two or three times, you make so many mistakes that can go wrong with you engine and never resurfacing on assembled engine, don't mix crankcases , select proper shell bearings from codes....etc
So far so good I did refer to the manual a lot actually but yeah not everything I did is professional and I’m constantly learning to do stuff more professional so next time I’ll try to correct my mistakes to make myself better.
@@Benjamminoutdoors we no your bike running go but the timing is an important step in the build ...I get you tho like the video none the less just wish you showed that step
Its worth to repair a hole in the engine?, I read that any engine with that diagnostic will have extra vibrations that will reduce the life as time pass. I bought a 2008 CBR 600RR and has a patch in the left cylinder. 95k kilometers, and at least 50k were spent on tracks
Since I’m doing all the work myself this budget motor rebuild cost me little to no money because I already had parts. so yes it was worth it so far I’ve put around 2k miles on it and it runs strong
@@Benjamminoutdoors tyvm man, ur works are so great. The patch on my engine is almost in the same position 8:00, and Im so afraid, idk what will I find if I pay someone for openning the engine! :( Im not using my cbr until I have money for that.
@@afanasiy299 This initially had JB Weld on it, I don’t typically condone using that but if you can try to take the valve cover off and try to slide some thing behind it and slap some JB Weld on it then you could probably drive it for a long time with that patch on it.
Hello my friend...do you have any idea about engines that serve as plug and play on the cb600f? I'm from Brazil and here i didn't find an answer to this question
@@Benjamminoutdoors each crank case is given a code from the manufacturer which indicates the crank bore bearing size needed. There are multiple codes for example A,B,C. If you have Frankenstein’d the two haves and they have different codes then your bearing tolerances will be effected. I’ve a few rebuilds on this motor.
@@riccardomarshall335 Yeah I know about the codes and stuff, not really sure why I didn’t swap the bottom case too, I mean I chose the best of the 2 I guess, but The engine is running magnificently I have part three and four of this build out.
@@riccardomarshall335 since im doing a 1000rr rebuild i wondered what has he done mixing two halves of cases, and every main and rod journal have their codes on rods crank and cases. cross referencing to the manual you have bearings which were there originally, if rebuilding precise measuring is required to know if you need thicker or thinner bearing and to obtain proper oil clearance once again.
Hey bro, also just found your channel. Wanted to ask. I have a naza blade 250. The pain on the engine and frame it’s really terrible. All rusted and and some paint even chipped off. What would you prefer? Remove the engine and repair or just sell it off?
AsturPursuit it’s not good if it does but that’s why you do a very thin layer just enough to seal any imperfections in the mating surfaces of the cases!
@@Benjamminoutdoors ok.cause im thinking once that gasket will be press there is a big tendency that it will over press and there a big chance that some of the chunks of that gasket will fall inside and cause some clogs..just saying.
Hey buddy great video and very informative about the internals of an engine. I have a question with regards to timing do you set before stripping the engine so that you don't have to when assembling the engine or how does that work. Would really appreciate if you could answer this question.
You can only set the timing once you have the head on and put the cams in, You can go on Facebook in some groups or Google and get The manual and it will tell you how to line the crank timing marks with the cam timing marks. Or you can email me and I can send you the manual if you have this bike. My email is in my about page.
The motor was sitting for a while, there was some light internal rust on a few things. I just wanted to have something that I knew would work perfectly with no surprises.
أنى سعيد ومتفائل جدآ ببناء محرك الدراجة خاصتك وانا أملك مثلها العجوز وهي نائمة من سنة تقريبآ تحتاج بناء ولايوجد في بلدنا قطع غيارة مثل جانبية المحرك وغيرها أنها مغطاه بغطاء النايلون😢😢
I’ve taken 3 of these motors apart so far and in all 3 motors that first transmission bearing came out easy by hand. All shift properly so I think it’s designed like that.
@@Benjamminoutdoors Actually I don't know what you do for a living. But I see you have nice workshop with expensive tools, you can actually start repairing bikes for money
I can barely flush my coolant without making 13 mistakes. This is talent, very cool to watch
Thanks man, just takes time and a lot of mistakes!
Hello brother cbr400rr camshaft timing full information pilzz
Just found your channel at round 5am. I really appreciate that you would show us the process of the entire bike rebuild.
Awesome! Glad you found me!
Instablaster
Can do nothing but respect your content these visuals help me so much more because the manual can often be broad on information, rebuilt my engine and just got it in the frame almost done. 💪🏽
the dust particles during sanding will get into piston ring gap and seize the ring rotation and also scratch the cylinder
Not if you blow it out with 150 psi of compressed air...
@@Benjamminoutdoors Thats a mistake, you blow it and it goes back to the engine, every time you send the block or head to the machine shop you have to clean it, imagine these tiny dust particles that can get stuck anywhere, specialy on a surface with oil or gasoline that can make it more hard to clean
@@lucasgarcia2353 dust particles can always get in unless you’re doing the rebuild in a secure and clean environment. Yeah I know I should’ve resurfaced ahead before I put it together (I did that in my current video) but after I resurfaced it and blasted it out with 150 psi I put it together immediately so no particles could I get in after that. The motor has been running flawlessly super powerful for about 3000 miles now so I don’t think that I have any problems clearly if I was a professional with professional tools I’d be doing it probably differently but I’m just some guy that’s only rebuilt three motors and I’m still learning, so I’m pretty happy with the outcome.
Bro nice video! I changed my stator and I thought i was the shit! Looking at what you have done wow I am truly amazed you have a talent for this!
Thanks! And you gotta start somewhere!
Great work as always Benjammin - you have skills and attitude way beyond your years - it's a pleasure to watch you work - thank you once again for sharing!
Thanks so much!
So glad I got to see this get redone. Congrats Ben 👍🏻
Yeah bro she’s ganna be amazing when she’s done!
I love that you're wearing the watch that I saw in the scuba video I watched.
Amazing those little pistons produce the power they do
I know this is old but this is the best home way I’ve seen to smooth or resurface a head mating surface
Ur the man I’m taking my cbr600 apart to swap heads man’s nothing this crazy, but stay grinding n killing it dawg
Amazing video, but why when you unbolting the head, you just go one way, instead of unbolting the screws from outside to inside, that way preventing possible head distortion.
Same thing when you putting head back, just useing opposite pattern (from inside to outside).
Anyway awesome video, Thanks for putting it out, I have learned a lot!!!
🙋♂️👌👍
I’ll make sure to do that next time! And sure I love doing it thanks for watching!
Hey Ben, I've seen about a dozen of your vids now and I think this is the best engine rebuild vid EVER! Thanks for sharing and I'm a subscriber now.
Thanks!
I say this every time, but it’s so true. EVERY video is getting better and better. Stoked for you bro, you’re going places. Keep the up good work!
Thanks bro!!
A really wonderful rebuild and restoration job. Sorry that I was so carried into part one and forgot to like it. Won't miss this one though 😅
This was a solid rebuild
Made part 1and 2lol so easy when I know it's not.good vids
Good jkb bro though I didn't like the way you were resurfacing the heads but I did like the engine stand you made. I am going to do something similar.
You call installing a new head on an engine a rebuild.... lol jk that work station is killer
Thanks bro!
👌🏾oooo sick!!Can’t wait to see
finished✊🏽 Great job ben
thanks! i appreciate the support a lot!
He don't care I told him no ads on my end on videos he said he don't care. So I'm sure he don't care...
Every day life with me is that what you were trying to say because when I read it it did not look like that, I thought you said I did not have many ads in the video and so I said I didn’t really care.
Every day life with me and I don’t have much control where the ads are, there isnt supposed to be ads at the end I have that option deselected.
Good way to fill your cylinder bores with ally shavings
I blew the cylinders out with 160 psi of air after. But the $200 cbr motor rebuild I resurfaced before I installed pistons like you should.
Good job
when you sand down the cylinder block ( from 18:07 and onward ) little debrises may fall inside. Evantually these little debris may scratch your cylinder wall. i think you should have done it earlier.
I used about 130psi of compressor air to blow any debris out before I put the cylinder head on
understood. that would clear all debirs for sure.
You are a great mechanic
Damn man, I knicked the corner of my oil pan on my 07 600 on a curb and didn’t realize it had leaked all of the oil out until it spun a bearing not long after.
I bought a used engine off eBay for $800.. checked the valves and threw a new set of plugs in it and threw it in. Still running fine 6 years later lol
Nice!
Nice work man!I only change oil and filters on my cbr and bleeding the brakes.I would be afraid of doing such a job even I had a tech manual.
Otherwise you could weld the hole instead of swaping the block.I.My cbr had exactly the same impact from r&g crashpads as I was crashed it and the shop fixed it by welding and shaving the block and cylinderhead replacing the headgasket with a new one and new rubber rings on the valves if I say these right.Now after 13000 km is still runing great.
If you find some free time can you make a video how to change coolant on cbr because I had seen many but all they do not do corectly from the drain bolt and how to flush properly.Sorry for my bad english I am from Greece.Keep on the good work!
I am fan from egypt i hope to be like you bro ☝️💓
Awesome as always mate make it look so easy usual big shouts from Scotland
Thanks!!
Excelente trabajo saludos desde Argentina
I’m hoping you checked the piston ring gap
Very impressive.. I thought I did ok recently replacing the split radiator on my old Fireblade.. I would definitely make a mess of this 🙈
You would be surprised, if your engine ever needs work just say fuck it and get learning, Haynes manuals tell you everything you need to know
Really enjoyed the vid man, very informative for sure.
The only thing I didn't get is why did you decide to resurface the bottom end and head once u rebuilt it with the pistons and everything attached. Wouldnt you be dropping sand particles into the engine, either way good job bud 👍 I need to resurface mine also as I'm looking at 0.20mm warp on the cam chain side and its stating 0.10mm max clearance...not sure if that's common or not. Would I get away with just resurfacing the head only.
I blew it out with 150psi of compressed air, so it’s good!
As you disassemble the engine the sensation borders on fear. It's too much knowledge man. I am fascinated by your work! I had to subscribe, fantastic channel!
Thank you so much bro 🤗
Lv the vids bro 👌 just trying to build a frazer 600 paid 100 pound
the cnc hands
You shouldn't mix block halfs/cases as those are machined toghether just like cylinder head with cam holders. You got lucky, I learned this the hard way building Bandit 400. When bolts got torqued to spec, crankshaft wouldn't move at all. Nice job but this one thing is rather critical.
Man i have been waiting for the video
18:26, why did you resurface the deck after you installed the pistons? I would have been concerned aluminum oxide from the sandpaper and aluminum dust would drop into the crevice volume between the top compression ring and crown, introducing debris which could score the cylinder walls.
Yeah wasn’t the smartest way, I did you my air compressor to blow out everything tho.
nice job
Хороший подход,👍👍👍
I fucking love the stand keep the good work bro
Thanks!
@@Benjamminoutdoors np bro u should make a video of how to make the same stand ur using on the video
I like your creation bro
thanks!
@@Benjamminoutdoors hi bro I am from Sri lanka
@@Benjamminoutdoors your job is awesome
DEADLY GAMING cool!! Greetings from the USA.
Tanks man
You went to school to learn this or just on your own? good stuff
You know what yo do and you look very profetional
As usual great content 👍🏻
Thanks!
Benjamminoutdoors I’m a fan from the UK 👍🏻
Accounts DCUO awesome! Thanks for watching!
A note of caution: Never wedge a tool or something against the mating surfaces to get things loose. You will damage the mating surfaces it won't seal properly.
Yeah I know, did you see me do that? I don’t recall doing it. That’s why I use my soft blow hammer to tap on things.
Yeah you did. @1:22 & 6:40 "Yeah I know did you see me do that..." Seriously? Lol
@Andre Ungerer that’s the valve cover, not that bad. And yeah it’s not technically right I’m well aware but I’m not a professional so I don’t always do things 100% by the book (I’m not proud of it I’m always working to get better) . I would never do that on cases or or the head.
@@Benjamminoutdoors You are actually doing a better job most professionals do, so kudus to that.
@@andreungerer3531 nahhhhh no way, I got a long way to go. I have come a long way but still have tons to learn.
Rất ngưỡng mộ Bạn
Chúc Bạn luôn Thành Công trong Cuộc Sống.....
Very good froon Brazil🤙😎
Hey Ben, I've run into a issue with my 05 cbr600rr and now am having to do an head gasket replacement. I'm having difficulties on how to do the timing though. I have not begun the teardown yet because i want to be certain in the process as far as TDC and making sure it is timed in sync with the cams before cylinder head removal. If you could give me a brief rundown on the process it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Sorry for the late response, but In the service manual it tells you how to set everything at TDC. You can join some Facebook groups for your specific bike and most the time someone has a digital copy of the manual
damn, i wouldnt even try. transmissions are spooky.
honestly it was cake! way easier than my yz450f that i did!
Good job bro
Thanks!
I assume the engine you bought had some serious problem that you decided to strip both and rebuild. You should remove head bolts in the opposite way to how you showed tightening them, it's more likely to warp coming off than going on.
I just wanted to have a fresh build the one that I purchased was definitely neglected, but I will Definitely keep that in mind next time I do a rebuild, there were a few things that I didn’t do the way I should have but it’s running great right now and I’ll be torture testing once I break it in.
Remove - outside to in.
Tighten - inside to out.
Both in a criss-cross pattern, evenly. Don't fully do one bolt then on to the next, it needs to be a few turns evenly over all of them until fully loose/tight.
Ben did any which way to remove, outside to in when torqueing down. Some of the comments to correct him are incorrect.
Ben - good job in getting stuck in, and being honest about your mistakes.
This loosen/tighten patten applies to the cam caps too.
there is no need to resurface if there is no obvious reason. And especially the way you did it can cause more harm than benefit , not to mention that you did it with the engine half assembled, so now you have all the crap inside your engine.
Is there a certain way the crank has to go back in to ensure the pistons have the correct orientation? Like to get it back to TDC? Need to know before I re assemble mine? Thanks
The crank can only go in one way. Your pistons should have an arrow mark on the indicating which direction they should face which would be the front of the bike.
@@Benjamminoutdoors thanks for getting back with me on it. Maybe I should’ve worded a little bit better, is there a certain orientation the crank needs to be in to get the pistons back to TDC or does it matter? Just set the crank and begin putting pistons back in and spin the crank until it gets to TDC? Also what are the clearances that need to be checked for when swapping cases? Thanks a lot.
hey ben quick question can i remove the camshaft tentioner guides from the bottom with out removing the top of the engine?
I haven’t tried to do it while the motor was assembled, but you’re probably gonna have to remove the cams and the chain to pull it out the top or bottom I would think so you’re probably gonna have to pull the valve cover off and the cams out regardless.
I admire you courage but please read the manual first two or three times, you make so many mistakes that can go wrong with you engine and never resurfacing on assembled engine, don't mix crankcases , select proper shell bearings from codes....etc
So far so good I did refer to the manual a lot actually but yeah not everything I did is professional and I’m constantly learning to do stuff more professional so next time I’ll try to correct my mistakes to make myself better.
@@Benjamminoutdoors Don't even reply to arm-chair Know it all's You done great job fook the nay Sayers
Нельзя было на разобранном двигателе и головке притереть их друг к другу?
Привет вкладышам коренным и шатунным.
Безобразная работа!
Еще и кусок железяки применять для притирки !!!
Ben what about the engine timing at the end lol we going to below up the new build lol good video tho 👌
what about it? I didn’t really show it but I timed the motor properly and the motor runs great. Thanks!
@@Benjamminoutdoors we no your bike running go but the timing is an important step in the build ...I get you tho like the video none the less just wish you showed that step
Its worth to repair a hole in the engine?, I read that any engine with that diagnostic will have extra vibrations that will reduce the life as time pass. I bought a 2008 CBR 600RR and has a patch in the left cylinder. 95k kilometers, and at least 50k were spent on tracks
Since I’m doing all the work myself this budget motor rebuild cost me little to no money because I already had parts. so yes it was worth it so far I’ve put around 2k miles on it and it runs strong
@@Benjamminoutdoors tyvm man, ur works are so great. The patch on my engine is almost in the same position 8:00, and Im so afraid, idk what will I find if I pay someone for openning the engine! :( Im not using my cbr until I have money for that.
@@afanasiy299 This initially had JB Weld on it, I don’t typically condone using that but if you can try to take the valve cover off and try to slide some thing behind it and slap some JB Weld on it then you could probably drive it for a long time with that patch on it.
Question. Do you not need to gap the pistons rings or are they just ready to go?
Yes you do need to, that is something that I skipped that I shouldn’t have.
Hello my friend...do you have any idea about engines that serve as plug and play on the cb600f? I'm from Brazil and here i didn't find an answer to this question
Casing has been damaged on the out side were its broken its pushed in
I love it
Hope you didnt mix to different crank cases together. If so you may be changing a crank bearing before you know it.
I used different cases but same crank bearings, So it shouldn’t effect it.
@@Benjamminoutdoors each crank case is given a code from the manufacturer which indicates the crank bore bearing size needed. There are multiple codes for example A,B,C. If you have Frankenstein’d the two haves and they have different codes then your bearing tolerances will be effected. I’ve a few rebuilds on this motor.
@@Benjamminoutdoors I am curious though to know how the engine is running at this point in time
@@riccardomarshall335 Yeah I know about the codes and stuff, not really sure why I didn’t swap the bottom case too, I mean I chose the best of the 2 I guess, but The engine is running magnificently I have part three and four of this build out.
@@riccardomarshall335 since im doing a 1000rr rebuild i wondered what has he done mixing two halves of cases, and every main and rod journal have their codes on rods crank and cases. cross referencing to the manual you have bearings which were there originally, if rebuilding precise measuring is required to know if you need thicker or thinner bearing and to obtain proper oil clearance once again.
Süper usta
Hey bro, also just found your channel. Wanted to ask. I have a naza blade 250. The pain on the engine and frame it’s really terrible. All rusted and and some paint even chipped off. What would you prefer? Remove the engine and repair or just sell it off?
Honestly if you could get it to run then I would bother with it because those do look like a cool bike. If the engine is trash I would just sell it.
so cool, same my cbr1000rr 2008 engine :v
13:33 what could happen if that white thing goes inside the engine when you put it on top of the other part?
I am not sure what you’re referring to at 13:33 I’m putting the Pistons in and I don’t see any white thing.... sorry.
@@Benjamminoutdoors sorry wrong time: it's 15:30
AsturPursuit the white thing as in the liquid gasket I’m putting on the cases?
@@Benjamminoutdoors yes
AsturPursuit it’s not good if it does but that’s why you do a very thin layer just enough to seal any imperfections in the mating surfaces of the cases!
yeah bro wedding
Is it really ok to use a gasket maker rather than the cut ones???
Yes In the manual it actually calls for Honda bond and not paper gaskets
@@Benjamminoutdoors ok.cause im thinking once that gasket will be press there is a big tendency that it will over press and there a big chance that some of the chunks of that gasket will fall inside and cause some clogs..just saying.
Hey I have a 2004 Cbr600rr and found a donor 2008 engine for v cheap do you think it’ll fit or are they too different
that’s 2 different frames, don’t think it would work unfortunately.
I just made it 31k subs.
De los mejores mecanicos por lastima soy de mexico y no entiendo muy bien el ingles
Should replace cam chain no?
Yes I definitely should’ve replaced the cam chain while I was in there
Tiba2 nongol di brenda
Just subbed man great work
There are two types off cbr600f 'x' + 'y' who can tell me if 'x' is the "ultima light"(f4 with carbs) and if it is 99/00/01 mod Thanks from Greece
Hey buddy great video and very informative about the internals of an engine. I have a question with regards to timing do you set before stripping the engine so that you don't have to when assembling the engine or how does that work. Would really appreciate if you could answer this question.
You can only set the timing once you have the head on and put the cams in, You can go on Facebook in some groups or Google and get The manual and it will tell you how to line the crank timing marks with the cam timing marks. Or you can email me and I can send you the manual if you have this bike. My email is in my about page.
Tanx buddy I'll email you
Aren't yah supposed to check the ring end gap on new piston rings?
Yeah you are I just didn’t put it in the video.
Ik this was 3 years ago, but where did you get all the case bolts from
Everything I ordered was all from the local Honda dealer!
@@Benjamminoutdoorsthank you
hi benjamin the motor of my cbr600rr 2007 one piston just get broke where i can sent my motor to rebuild it i'm from houston tx thanks
Not sure tbh.
How do you get the timing all back set proper? 4 cams is x4 spooky to me....
It’s actually just two cams, but four cylinders. The service manual is very straightforward it’s pretty easy if you have it.
can you please tell me the measurements of your engine stand I been looking for one like that and I can find it 🙏 😔
I can't find it *
i actually took scrap metal and made one of my own, so they aren’t for sale anywhere.
You ain't show when you timed the camshaft,I would have like to see that
Yeah sorry, I’m actually doing a motor rebuild on my $200 Cbr600rr soon, so I will try to show it then in more detail.
How many kilo's head bolts
Did you have to time the engine?
Yes I did.
Block engine pc41?
guy knows his motors, too complicated even for a honda
How come did you not just put the new motor straight in? I may have missed something explaining it if you did sorry
The motor was sitting for a while, there was some light internal rust on a few things. I just wanted to have something that I knew would work perfectly with no surprises.
@@Benjamminoutdoors oh okay makes sense cheers for that!
Is the same process for 2012 cbr1000rr?
Similar process but their design is just slightly different
Hey saw your video, is that oil pump drive chain gear sopposed to be a little lose not alot??
Yeah it’s weird but there’s no tensioner it’s normal for it to be loose.
Thanks for the video man. can I know what engine stand you are using please
Sure! And I actually made it custom, I just threw some steel together that I had.
@@Benjamminoutdoors nice work man.. ill find some steel. :D
mantap masbroo...
أنى سعيد ومتفائل جدآ ببناء محرك الدراجة خاصتك وانا أملك مثلها العجوز وهي نائمة من سنة تقريبآ تحتاج بناء ولايوجد في بلدنا قطع غيارة مثل جانبية المحرك وغيرها أنها مغطاه بغطاء النايلون😢😢
One of the bearings just went inside by hand, is it ok or it's loose?
I’ve taken 3 of these motors apart so far and in all 3 motors that first transmission bearing came out easy by hand. All shift properly so I think it’s designed like that.
@@Benjamminoutdoors Actually I don't know what you do for a living. But I see you have nice workshop with expensive tools, you can actually start repairing bikes for money
Xe e lội lụt hư rồi a cho cục dó về dộ lại chạy bao lụt luôn huhu
Really good job bro, where do you shop the parts, piston rings, gaskets, etc??
All from Honda, it’s was kinda expensive.
I know this video is a few years old but if you want to get that case repaired I can fix it
How much? And would you put a new sleeve in it?
$200 you pay the shipping. No there would be no reason for a sleeve.