Hi Corbin! Once I reduced my charge to minimum charge with 48A juice box hardwired, I no longer had a problem. If I keep it on maximum, or even reduced it would continuously fail. However, no problem with a public charger. Therefore, charging with the setting at a minimum at home, no longer having an issue. When I first bought my EV6 kia dealer said there was a problem with the charging module, they changed it for a brand new one, but in truth I think that was never the problem.
The people that answer “no” should also provide what type of charger is being used. This may serve to help eliminate certain chargers from being suspected in the problematic group and narrow down other issues.
No problems on my Hypervolt, and I haven't seen any complaints in the user forum. It is a fairly generic UK 7kW charger, and I haven't seen anyone reporting the issue in the UK Ioniq 5 forum and Facebook group.
Hi Ionic guy, having the same issue in Ireland. On chargers between 7kw and 22kW I get an error message “check electric vehicle system” and the car fails to charge. Below 7kw and on fast chargers, no issues. Not sure why this is occurring. Dealer could find no fault with the car when in the garage after it happened for the first time last month. Car will go back in to the garage for assessment next week.
Definitely the vehicle. I had the same problem using my ChargePoint Home Flex set at 48A. Night time temps. Had a service appointment scheduled and they couldn't find a problem. The error message they pulled up was inconclusive. Reduced to 40A and not a single interrupted charging session in a month since.
Thank you again for the umpteenth time. Your knowledge and presentation of the facts are a huge help to those of us how are old and not tech savvy! My Wallbox Pulsar 48 amp crashes everytime I charge my Ioniq 5 Limited AWD at 40 amps or above. My son has a 2019 Tesla 3 and has no issues charging at 48 Amps, so I know it's not the charger but my Ioniq 5. You didn't ask this question in the survey so I thought I would add that info.
Technove i48: no issue but I changed early (before the reported temperature effect on overloading the internal charger) the Stats current factor from 1.00 to 0.88 to be in conformity between the current/ kWh reported in the App and the values on the left Ioniq 5 screen as it showed 51-52A and 22 kW which is more than the internal charger max rating. This had the beneficial effect to ask a step down one current level from 48A to 44A.
Your assumption that it's not the charger is based upon the fact that the Tesla has no problem, but could it be that the Ionic system is more sensitive and is not prepared to charge when there's a potential problem?
Thanks for posting this. I have 2 Ioniq 5's. Bought one Jan 2022 and one in July 2022. The Jan 2022 vehicle has never had charging issue, but the newer vehicle started giving me problems over the last several weeks. I did perform the head unit software update on both vehicles in Jan 2023 but I don't think this was the cause. Anyway, after watching this video, I took your advice and turned down the charging current and that seemed to work! (so far) I am surprised there is nothing online more recent from Hyundai/Kia addressing this problem. Let us know if you have any updates!
I haven't had an issue charging at home using my Clippercreek. It's only a 40 Amp that plugs into a 14-50 plug. The EV is set to "Reduced" AC Charger in the settings since I charge overnight.
Corbin, Thanks for addressing this. I completed the Survey but wanted to add some info. My Juicebox 40 level 2 charger I'm pretty certain is not the problem as I have spent several hours on the phone with Juicebox and they were gracious enough to look into it and even send me another one to test and the results were the same. I CANNOT charge my vehicle on level 2 charging 40amp with Max or reduced setting. I can only charge it on Minimum. This is pretty annoying and is still a problem. I did take the car to my local Hyundai dealer in AZ and they were clueless. They tried charging it on their ChargePoint Level 2 charger and said they had no issues. But when I asked what the amps were they said 32amp. So that's one difference. And I don't know what setting they used Max, Reduced or MIn. So I'm pretty much still no where and Hyundai (At least the dealer ) is clueless and won't do anything further. I really would like to charge at 40amp with at least the reduced setting if not he Max. It should work. Now, the only thing I don't know is if the HEAT in AZ is causing this random cut off. I got my car in 6/1 so I really have not had the vehicle with temps that you would consider reasonable or normal always been higher at this point. I'm hoping when Winter comes and our temps are in the 70's I will try again and see if I get a better result but somehow I don't think that's the problem. Any thoughts, do you have other reports similar? Thanks Brent
Kia has already replaced my charging port and VCMS once...it's back at the dealer again for the same problem... They think it's another bad port... The AC side has 1 temp sensor and the DC side has 2...for whatever reason there's something wrong with the AC temp sensor... No issues charging on public level 3 chargers.
Hi Corbin - so I had issues charging at ambient air temps (80-92F) in my garage at 40A with my Grizzl-E EVSE. This has only happened over the summer - during the Jan/July period I never had L2 charging issues with my EVSE or car charging to 80% without interruption. Starting in July I started getting the intermittent charging issues. At work I was able to charge just fine but that is a 30A charger limited to 7.1 KW/Hr, however I can charge even to 100% with that EVSE. Just for kicks, I dropped my Grizzl-E dip switch settings from 40 to 30A and the charging issues went away. I believe it is somehow heat related, as the Grizzl-E is UL certified, has heavy gauge copper for the connector, and I have made sure my cables are tightly torqued inside the Grizz (there have been burned up units due to loose internal connections). No issues whatsoever when fast charging from 50 - 230 KW/hr. I own the SEL Ioniq 5 BTW.
I had the same issue but it is the charger that is throttling due to heat. I took a small fan and put it on the charger itself and it charged just fine. So yeah from what you say the charger is actually getting too hot. Mine throttles at like 70 degrees Celsius.
I have that same Grizzl-E EVSE but it is using a 30A NEMA14-30 outlet so charging at 24 amps. This has charged every time regardless of any temperatures since March. I only used the DC fast charger once as there are no Electrify America chargers within 100 miles of my house. That session went up to 149kW on a 150kW charger and had no issues at 90 degrees F.
I did the survey. But my story is a bit more complex. My Grizzl-e was kicking out in warm / humid weather. It never flipped the 50 amp breaker. My car didn’t stop the charging. I brought the charging unit back to the manufacturer assuming that the unit was faulty. It was 2 months old. It passed the tests they put it through but I convinced them to exchange mine for a another unit. But I also had my electrician come to see if the problem was the installation. I wanted him to go over every connection and retighten each one. I had been advised by an electrician friend of mine that each connection had to be torqued to a specific amount, which they did. I went through the rest of the summer without incident. All this is say that Hyundai should look at each element to determine if it’s the car, the charger, the breaker and its torque connections, etc etc. Hate to muddy the waters but…..
No problems since December 2021. My Energy Zappi v2 charger @ 3 x 16A - 10,5 to 11kw charge all the time any time. Location Europe / The Netherlands. Sturdy 30ft cable suited for 3 x 25A
My new Ioniq5 with less than 3k miles started this "charging failure" problem a few weeks ago. I found this channel, filled out the survey, and it prompted me to try "lower amps". Unfortunately, my Chargepoint Home Flex won't let me change the amps in the charger. I have a 70 amp circuit set up to charge at 50 amps, which is normally about 11kW. I set the Ioniq to "reduced" charging, which ended up being 10kW, and it still kept stopping and failing to charge. I set it again to "minimum" in the Ioniq, which ended up being 6.8kW (6.6kW according to the Chargepoint log), and it charged up completely without hiccup. Local Hyundai is still going to look at it in a few weeks, but I am keeping a very detailed log of my efforts to give them when they look at it. Fortunately, the Chargepoint app logs the times and output of charging, so you can clearly see the chart as it drops out. I will sometimes restart charging on it's own after random long intervals. If this ends up being a charger issue, I may have to completely reset and re-install the Chargepoint and set it at lower amps. At one time the Chargepoint would let users change the amp settings, but I guess enough people were abusing this that they removed this user accessible setting in the app. Neither the Chargepoint nor the car itself ever give any kind of message as to "why" it stops charging. This seems like a logical error code for one or the other to log. Hopefully that is in the data that Hyundai can pull at the shop. We'll see.
It is my opinion that you should not leave all the charging cord on our charge point charger coiled on the wall hanger. Lay the hole cord out as straight as you can without coils on top of each other. Leaving it coiled greatly increases wire resistance thus wire temperature
Leaving it coiled does not increase the resistance by any appreciable amount. If you have an undersized cable it might heat it a bit more but really any charger that has a cable that close to the margin is not UL listed for sure. Yes, copper resistance increases with temperature, the coefficient near room temperature is 0.393% per degree C. But unless you have a really small and tightly packed coil this is not a big effect. You have the effect backwards- higher temperature increases the copper resistance- but coiling copper does not increase resistance and if fact for higher frequencies it decreases the impedance. Not too much effect at 60Hz.
Has there been any update on this? I was one of the first GV60 owners in the US (I was told I was the first in NJ) back in Spring 2022. I had no problems with charging for about 3 weeks at full 11kW, then the problems began. The only way to AC charge now is at Min 6kW rate. Took to dealer and they've had for a total of two months (two visits). Ended up replacing the charging module, that did not resolve the problem. I can reproduce the problem every time but so far Genesis has no response. Thankfully I don't need to normally charge faster than 6kW but there will be times when I'll need it (like at hotel or other dest charger). No problem with DC charging. Anything faster than 6kW will randomly stop within 30-45 mins. It's not related to the EVSE because I can reproduce this on other charger type and I also replaced the ChargePoint Flex once (in the very beginning when problem started). You'd be a hero if you can get to the bottom of this!! :-) I read somewhere that a guy had his "charging cable assembly" replaced and that resolved it for him. To me, it seems like something goes haywire after about 2-3 weeks of use and then problem starts.
@@TheIoniqGuy I fired off a complain to Genesis a few days back, got a quick response from them via a phone call from a seemingly concerned woman. I explained the situation and she said someone would contact me in next day or two and they would contact the dealer where I had it serviced at. That's where I lost all hope because the dealer doesn't know what to do. They are also a Hyundai dealer so I would think the Hyundai side would have come across this issue on the Ioniq... but it seemed like getting the Genesis guys to walk around the corner (25') to talk to the Hyundai guys about it wasn't in the cards :-( I was clear with the lady that I don't want to be the "guinea pig" for a third time while the inexperienced Genesis guys hack at a fix over the phone with S Korea... so let's see how well that message was received. It's a shame because the dealer is awesome, but they openly admit that they have almost no working experience on these cars as of yet - so there's no ability to think on their own and they just go right to corporate for direction. There's so much info about this problem out there... one guy even has error codes, cable temps, graphs, etc. Are you having the issue on your Ioniq5?
I've had this issue a few times. It's definitely not the EVSE (even tho mine is not certified). I will be filling out the form but wanted to comment saying that I was using the max charge current until I started to have issues. Moved down to the middle option and has been flawless ever since. Thanks for the video and dedication to the brand!!
I’m using the Emporia charger and have never had a failed session. I’m charging between 6A and 48A. Actually the charger will change the amperage to harvest only excess solar production if configured this way, and it works very well and totally seamlessly. Very easy to set up. The smartest charger that seems to exist!
I have the same charger. I paid 1200 dollars for mine to be installed. Mine started stop charging with my car. I'm not an expert but using 50amp breaker. Mine will charge for 1 hour then it will say charge failure.
@@tempcbuilds Unlikely to be the Emporia’s fault. Do you have an Ioniq 5 and you charge at 48A? Then overheating of the charge port is a common issue and this is why the session fails.
This issue started for me approximately 3 weeks ago after an OTA update on my Ioniq 5 Limited in the US. I have a Grizzl-e Classic at 40 amps. I did not have any issues all summer, even in 85+ degree temps, but now am having intermittent charging stops even with temps around 60 degrees and the car cold (not recently driven). The issue does not appear to be temperature related for me, but does appear to be related to the OTA update I received.
We just started having this issue after 3 months of EV6 ownership. We were able to charge at 30A every week and now get “charging interrupted” errors. We’ve been using the same EVSE on our Leaf for years now with no issues. And would be very surprised if it’s heat as it’s in the 40s (F) in our garage ATM. It’s failed at the “max” and “moderate” settings. Now testing with the “minimum” setting…
My Ioniq 5 and my Lectron 40 A garage charger has been interrupting the charge after one hour of use. I restart it and 30 minutes later it stops again. I restart it, and 20 minutes later stops again. Hoping for better results in the fall (temperature sensors is my guess)
With my GV60, I have had similar problems with three chargers: Emporia @ 11kw, Chargepoint @ 6kw, and EA DC charging @85kw. It does not fail with an error - with the AC charging, it just drops to zero for some seconds to minutes, and starts again. With the DC charger, the charge session ended and needed to be restarted twice before I gave up continuing.
This issue is really weird. I've experienced this issue when I charged at home, in both hot weather and regular weather. I mostly charge at my work with Level 2 charger but never experienced the issue. The only explanation I have is that L2 charger at work can produce maximum 6kW, where at home my setup can deliver close to 10kW. I was able to charge at 10kW/h when the car was still new but for limited time. My work around at home is to reduce my charging current to minimum which would produce ~5.5 kW. This could explain why charging at work, I don't see the same issues (~6kW). I know my EVES and wiring at home are done properly, so I don't suspect my system.
I can’t charge at 11 kW, which is the EV6’s max, at home because the ChargePoint home flex tops out at 40 amps and thus it supplies 9.2 kW. Never had a single issue. Now a couple months ago when I didn’t want to be as big a burden to the Central Ohio grid I used the “gear” icon lower right corner of the EV screen to set charging rate on level 2 to the lowest setting to be a good neighbor. I think that’s about 5 kW at home in that case. I’ve also done that at a vacation house on 110 volts and even there you can drop it down from 1.4 kW to 1.1 kW. Again I just wanted to minimize load and I had 4 days to charge back up before we left the beach. Maybe you have a bad breaker? Is there another way to load test a circuit? Or perhaps the EVSE settings are wrong or it went bad and needs to be replaced. Maybe not likely but definitely possible. It’d be cool to find another 10 kW charger nearby to eliminate the variable of the car. Or ask a buddy to use your setup and see what they get charging.
A lot of people in my area says the charger is overheating (or at least the sensor judges it's too hot) when charging at 11kW on level 2, especially in summer, but when the outside temperature is around 50-60F, there's no issues. In order to make their car charge in the summer, they have to put the Chargepoint Home Flex limit to 50 or 40 Amp, so the output is lower and it doesn't overheat. Your problem seems related to the same
@@skyemalcolm Well, I have installed a new circuit breaker already before I got my EV. I made sure all the wires are sized correctly before ether contractor install them EVES. I have JuiceBox which according to the reviews works fine. I have a friend of mine that has ioniq 5 different trim and same JuiceBox. I'll try to rest my car over there to see if I'm getting the same issue.
@@IlTad it’s always nice to do Round Robin testing. Move the car around to multiple chargers and see what happens. Then likewise move multiple cars through a given charger. Obviously if it’s temperature related that that puts an extra variable in the mix so you might need a decent amount of testing to see if anything reveals itself as the root cause.
I can monitor the VCMS port temperature via the ODBC port. I've been charging with my Chargepoint Home Flex for 7 months in cooler temp at 48A (11.2kw) rate. Now the charge fails after about 30 minutes at 70F. Dropped charge rate to 40A(9.6kw) and port temp is staying below the trip point of 100C. Now that temps are to 80F, after one hour it shuts off at 100C so will be forced to drop to 32A(7.6KW).
I have had a Kia Soul EV 64 kWh for almost two years. 15 months ago, I had to take it to the garage due to an overall electrical fault light appearing after fast charge. Subsequently the sensors started acting up, the consumption was erroneous and the amount of battery left over was not in agreement with the remaining km. The garage deliberated 8 months with a courtesy car offered during 6 of those months. I have had to pay hotels and fuel costs that were not in the plan. The car was returned to me and after 500km, the same issue. After a further 3 months in the workshop, a problem with the engine was detected and repaired. 600 km later and after just one charge, the same problems have appeared. I got a substitute car from Kia (gasoline). The workshop again. 1.5 months later the car was picked up and this time, 2 complete charges before the SAME symptoms appeared AGAIN. At this point, the car is back in the last shop and I’m waiting for Kia’s response to have the car swapped for another unit or other solution since this has caused untold issues for work. 😒
Hi - super helpful video; now I know I'm not alone lol. I have an Ioniq5 that was intermittently cycling on and off with charging on my JuiceBox48, to the point it would take nearly two days to get a full charge. Speaking with tech support at Enel-x/JuiceBox has been helpful so far. They remotely set my amperage from 48A to 24A and it worked great. So the plan is to increase by 6A at a time (currently at 30A) until we reach a point where it stops being able to maintain charging, and then back off a bit. Work in progress but the tech said the sweet spot for the Ioniq5 seems to be around 34A.
Not sure where the survey link is but I have 2 Juicebox 40 amp chargers and have or had several other electric cars (Chevy Bolt, BMW ix50, Audi e-Tron, and Volvo XC90 plug in) and they all are charging or charged fine on these chargers except for the Ioniq 5, regardless of which Juicebox charger I use. The Ioniq has shut down charging dozens of time before reaching the maximum charge whether I have it set at 80, 90 or 100%. It is not the temperature, cable or charger. it is the car. I want the car to charge at the maximum level/speed or that is a huge problem as I have two other electric cars. One selling point of this car is the speed at which it charges and its range. This changes that entirely. It seems to add another 4-8% charge before stopping. The Ioniq charges fine on level 3 chargers. The dealership claimed they had never heard of this problem when I brought the car in and said they thought it was my charger, which is of course not true. I called Hyundai and they are getting back to me. This is incredibly disappointing and frustrating as overall we like the car but this is a fatal flaw. It's like having a gas car where you can't fill the gas tank. I called Juicebox technical support and the technician shared readouts from several Ioniq charging sessions which show that current is being delivered but that the car is shutting down the charging session. He knew exactly what I was talking about and even asked if I had an Ioniq before I told him when I said I was having charging issues. I am also going to send this to Consumer reports. They need to find a fix for this ASAP or the cars should be recalled
Had this issue on mine for about 3 months. UK based ioniq 5 owner. Have had the car recalled and supposedly fixed but it hasn’t fixed the issue. I start charging then the car stops the charging randomly after about 30mins. It’s definitely not the charging port as I’ve had that checked and I’ve also used different cables and other ports than my own and the problem still continues.
Purchased Grizzl E, worked fine the first three weeks or so. Now only charges about 2-5% then we hear "charging unsuccessful." Spoke with rep, they can't guarantee it won't again with their new model. Purchased ChargePoint, waiting/hoping it will work. Very frustrating and challenging as we live out in the country!
Had issues with JuiceBox. Switched to Grizzly. My setup was at 20 amps so I had to set the Grizzly at 16 amps. Woeks perfectly on my 2022 Kona EV. JuiceBox was a problem because it was setup much higher and kept on shutting down within 10 minutes.
I would love to take your survey but cannot get the link to work. My details: 2022 Kia EV6 Wind RWD, 2,000 miles on it EVSE: Shell Recharge portable (the 40 Amp model) Conditions that caused charge interruption: max L2 current setting in the car, and max (40 Amp) output set on the EVSE. Garage air temp about 85 F. Would occur 1-1.5 hours in to a charging session. Resolution: stopped getting the error by reducing the EVSE current setting from 40 to 32 Amps. No change made to garage air temperature or the car's L2 current settings.
i feel it is definitely an EGMP platform problem. i own 2 EV6's and a Mach-E GT. charge with a Grizzl-e avalanche edition, or a Grizzl-e Duo. both are set to 40amp, but the Duo obviously splits the power when plugged into two cars. under all different scenarios, and in fairly wide temp ranges, i have had problems with the EV6's, but never the Mach- E. i will say that hotter temps are worse, though. failures are very intermittent and impossible to predict. never had a problem DC fast charging anything. my EV6's are set to maximum current charging and i have never changed that. i have had the re-flash done for the transmission parking brake issue on both EV6's (and the re-flash on the Mach-E for Ford's recall on the battery terminal connectors).
Have my GV60 for about a month. Mostly charge at home with a Chargepoint at 40 amps. (In New Jersey, so far at moderate temperature) No problems at all.
You may want to do a separate video on charging losses. These vary strongly depending on amperage. When charging at close to 48A, I have a loss of around 10% (cable and inverter combined). When charging at 1.1kW, the loss is a whopping 56%. At 2.5kW it is 21%. So it pays to charge at the fastest possible rate unless this means you can’t harvest excess solar power.
@@TheIoniqGuy An OBD scanner will tell you how much power is actually going into the battery. The car display tells you how much is going into the car - and there is a big difference. There is a bit of a loss between charger and car and you can see what the charger says it is putting out vs what the car is taking in. And lastly cabling losses (which rise with power) can be seen by measuring voltage at the charger compared to voltage elsewhere in the house. This bit needs a bit of a setup but I’m sure no problem for you :)
Holy crap, Ludwig. I just ran some numbers with my level 1 and level 2 chargers. I'm spending 5 times more on losses using level 1 than if I had been using my level 2 at 9.3kw. That equates to $16/month spent on heating my garage lol. I'm done with level 1 now. Thank you for enlightening me
@@TheIoniqGuy , I didn’t realise until recently myself. It is a known “issue” for all EVs - the level of losses varies somewhat according to tests I have seen reported in Germany. I’m sure that sooner or later there will be a greater focus on this and EV manufacturers will have to compete on minimizing charging losses. That said it will always be the case that higher charging rates will lead to lower relative charging losses.
I haven’t seen this issue pop up before this video, I’m not on a ton of forums, but nothing in the EV6 Facebook group. I run a 40Amp circuit so have my charger set to 32 AMP. This is more than enough for easily charging overnight even from sub 20% charge levels. My car was purchased in Feb 2022 so an early build, might be worth asking for build dates to see if maybe the issues are more prevalent in newer or older builds in the event there was a hardware change that might be causing the issues. I have also charged at public level 2 chargers at the higher “max” charging speeds and never had any failures.
hi - I am having this issue with my 2023 Ioniq 5 and Juicebox 40 charging station. I have tried to change the gfci breaker (several times and now have a 60amp), replaced the Juicebox 40 station, changed the DC charge in the car (with each of the options from max, reduced and min) - at first everything was working and then it started tripping the breaker. Now sometimes it will work for a few hours and other times, trip after 15 minutes. Is there an outcome from the survey or suggestions to try? I don't know if I should call the dealer, the charging station folks, or what. My electrician and I have tried so many things and it is so frustrating! We have the portable station - do you know if that is the issue and a hard wired one would be better?
You google forms is only suitable for US, here in europe we charge with 400V on Level 2 and so the max. current/phase is only 16A. My Ioniq 5 doesn't have any charging problems from 4-11kW charging at home.
Hey there. We are a 2 EV family. I’m using an adapter to use my Tesla plug on my Ionic 5. My Hyundai refuses to start charging unless I put in accessory mode. Then, I can turn it off and charging continues. Manufacturer rep admitted it is a known problem.
I had zero problems with my Juicebox 48A for almost 7 weeks charging at least a dozen times. Started having problems last 2 times. When this problem happened yesterday, I reduced the amps to 40 on the Juicebox and it successfully charged without any interruption. If it can take only 40A, why did I spend extra dollars for the 48A?
Hi Corbin Grizzle replaced my unit about a month ago but I still have problems on maximum setting. They are sending a factory technician tomorrow to do some tests. I will let you know what they have to say. Thanks, Tony
I wanted to come back to say that the results page of the survey doesn't show what chargers people are using that are failing. My Hyundai dealer says my Ioniq5 has "no error codes or logs" to point to why it stops charging. My Chargepoint Home Flex app gives no errors either. The dealer "looked" at my car for two weeks, can't figure anything out, but I don't even think they played with the charging amperage settings because when I picked it up it was still set to "minimum", which makes no sense. I am starting to wonder if the issue is with my Chargepoint. Are others having this issue with different chargers?
I have a new Ioniq 5 at work and we use Leviton charging stations. At first it would charge without issue to 90%. Now its only charging in 10 minutes intervals and shutting off with message saying "Check electric vehicle system". If we restart the process, its shutting off consistently every 10 minutes and having to unplug and replug. It goes into the dealer tomorrow to figure out why? We have a 2nd ioniq 5 that charges to 90% without issue(however only has 200 miles on it compared to the one i use with 1600) using same charging stations as well as volvo, audi and tesla without issue.
Ok my guess is that people having level 2 charging issues are tripping their breakers. I totally use the reduced charging settings more so when I want to put less load on the system. I have never ever used a knock off EVSE. I have successfully used an old Nissan LEAF 110 V EVSE many times. At home I’ve successfully used a hard wired ChargePoint Flex on a 50 amp breaker with the EV6, an old Nissan LEAF and a Honda Clarity PHEV. Zero issues for 2 years. Sometimes it’s 90-95 degrees here in the summer again no issues. Many many charges at outdoor level 2 chargers without issue.
I’ve bee charging our Ioniq 5 for 6 mos w the juicebox and had no issues. And no issues w our other EVs. Our gv60 is constantly getting interrupted. I find the car more glitchy in general. This is so inconvenient as several times I assume the car was fully charged only to realize mid trip that I might not have enough range as the car wasn’t charged.
I had this problem and did lower my current from 40 amps to 32 amps. I did trouble shoot this and have my EV Juicenet replaced to see if that was the problem. It didn't help. Lowering my amps did work.
YES! My IONIQ 5 will not do overnight scheduled charging. I have to manually enable it Worked for 2 two weeks then stopped. Worked one night again then not again since.
I only charged my Ioniq 5 on my Juicebox 40 for 3 months with no issues. I recently took my first road trip and charged up on 350kw EA chargers. The next time I tried to charge at home on my Juicebox 40 I got the dreaded failed charge error multiple times. It was relatively hot that day and I was previously typically charging at night. I'm not sure if it is heat related, some issue was caused by the EA charger or if it was just coincidence.
I started out using my Chargepoint Flex at 48 amps connected using 6 guage copper and a 60A dedicated breaker 6 feet from the electrical panel I have 200A service and had no home electrical issues other than having to replace the panel from the October storms in 2012. Had no issues until May when the weather was warmer. The Chargepoint would charge for an hour and then report that the car was drawing little current and fully charged. I could disconnect and reconnect and get another hour of charge but overnight charging wasn't working. After reading some posts online I called Chargepoint and had them factory reset the charger, set it up for 40 amps and it worked for a month with the Ioniq 5 set to Maximum (charged at 37mi/hr) now it's working at 40A car set to reduced (30mi/hr) reliably. Once the weather gets consistently cooler (I'm in CT USA) I will try and change the car back to maximum.
I've had this very few times using the charger "juice booster 2" here in Europe, which is one of the best, capable to deliver up to 22kw under 32A over 3 phases of 400V, even if ioniq5 can get 11kw max in AC. I am currently using it only in single phase under 230V and 13A, for a max power of 3kW. This seems to happen only under high temp exterior condition, above 30°C or 86° F. I suspect the cause to be the 5m electrical extension cable, connecting the charger to the 220V house outlet, overheating but I'm not sure... I have recently replaced the extension cable by one more "professional grade" made for boats.
Thank you for sharing your experience and setup. I will probably have to use a very similar setup in a few weeks when I get my Ioniq5 (knock on wood). I planned to use the 10m extension offered by juice though, because my 3 phase 400V 32A outlet is on the wrong side. Also planning to charge with just 3kw to help maintain a good battery health. What is your SoC limit? I might set it to 70% or even 65%, since letting it sit for too long on a high SoC (or even 100%) seems to have a significant negative impact on battery degradation.
@@MesoScale Hi, for a long extension cable of 10m or higher I would advice you to go to 4mm2 copper to avoid voltage drops, and take boat graded flexible cables, not a basic cable from local home depot. I do not limit charge currently in AC, charge 80% of the time using home AC in single phase. ON DC I limit to 90%
I had my ev6 fail 4 times in a row after about 15 minutes or so using the chargepoint flex. After rebooting the charger it has been fine. But if I get home late and plug in the car go to bed. And it fails I will be sol as I drive 100 miles a day for work. I will be looking into other chargers at this point.
I have stayed at a hotel that had a Tesla Destination charger as well. I used the Tesla to J1772 adaptor and had the same results, "Charging Unsuccessful." Staring charging through the app or the on/off trick works.
I love my GV60 but this probkem started a cluples of weeks ago. Charges like 10 % and stops. Sometimes charges well but others like 10% aproxx and stops.
No longer a problem. Ioniq 5 Limited. Had the issue with Lectron portable charger and ChargePoint home charger. Solved it by lowering the current in the car. I highly doubt it is the charger, this is a car problem. I still charge overnight easily, so no big deal. But I can live with it. Still crappy. Hope they fix it.
Car charged perfectly for 8 months - then this issue started early summer. Has to be related to the parking brake recall or charging door updates. Minimum current solves the problem. At first I suspected it was temperature related due to warm summer - but it will fail outdoors well below 15°c. Hyundai MUST know what the issue is?!
I an in Ontario Canada and have the TechnoVE 48A #BR240V-I48 (Quebec company) which is a hard wired unit. I had a professional electrician install the charger. I have been experiencing intermittent charging failures since I moved in to my new house October 1st. I upgraded my panel so I could run my charger off a 60A breaker. TechnoVE tech support told me throttle down to 40A using their French only app which I have done. I have only 1 charging session at 40A so far and it seemed to have charged from 60% to 100% without failure. Hopefully this matter is resolved soon as I paid quite a lot to upgrade my service so I could charge at 11.5 kW speed which the EV6 can accept.
I have a ChargePoint charger and it's hardwired on a 60amp circuit... the charger was working fine for a few weeks at 48 amps.... all the sudden it would not charge longer then about an hour. Reducing the rate from 48 Amp to 40amp has worked at least for now.
@@TheIoniqGuy ohh yeah, I worked in NYC for 40yrs. The alum. Home fires, and then in Manhattan with 500mcm cables alum. Over heating..yikes, but we made a lot of dough replacing it. Lol.
I've had the same issue charging from my Wallbox EVSE at 40A. I called Wallbox a couple weeks ago, they told me they were well aware of the issue and had rented an Ioniq 5 to try and see what can be done on their end. I'm also having an issue where I frequently get a text that my doors are unlocked when they are not. I can be driving down the road when I get these notifications and I get them in the middle of my charging sessions. Could these false 'doors unlocked' notifications be contributing to the problem?
I had issues charging, it was SUPER frustrating because the car would not TELL me it stopped charging so I would have to constantly refresh the app/web page to check status, I am in a cold northern environment and I was having issues when it was a humid 55F degrees out at night, keep in mind charging OUTSIDE. turns out, don't buy junk chargers I bought a LEFANEV 40Amp EV Charger Level 2,25ft NEMA 14-50 9.68KW and it was the complete and sole cause of my issue, bought an autel and have been happy since (always charging at maximum)
Juice Plus 48; excellent reputation; cold night; started charge to 80%; woke up @30%; blue link msg: charger disconnected-NOT; had to disconnect, reconnect and charge; @60% stopped again. Repeat process; 3rd time reached 80%; have EV charge at Max; will try one step down; if this works I will be very upset; a selling point for me was the car would accept a 40 amp charge.
Also remember the hotter the charger gets it will throttle down. So if you have the charger in direct sun in the summer time it will get hot. Mine throttles at 70 Celsius for example. I put a small fan on it and it boosted back up to its normal charging rate. I’ve never had a failed charge. It just gets really slow if the charger gets too hot.
We recently got the fix which included a software update at the dealer to fix the run away in park recall for our EV6 but have not charged with our level 2 charger yet. We normally charge at level 1. I will try our level 2 charger on our next charge with our SolarEdge 7.7kW (to 9.2kW with Solar Boost during the daylight hours) combined solar inverter with EV charger today and let everyone know.
Isn't there also an issue if you plug a GFCI charger (pretty much a given) into a circuit that has a GFCI breaker at the panel? I think I have read about similar symptoms when that is the case.
I own both an EV6 and GV60. We use the recommended Chargpoint charger. We are hooked up to a 60amp breaker and have the ability to charge at 48amps and use the full 11kw speed. Both vehicles have AC charging failures after about 45-60 min. Yes. This is a known problem. I have had both vehicles in for repair. Kia is using a bandaid and will do a service bulletin with s software "Upgrade" that kills the charging speed by about 40% after less than an hour in lieu of it shutting off. The EV module is overheating. It is not the charger. Both vehicles advertise a charge speed of 11kw. The fix drops it to 7.2 but strips the purchaser of the advertised speed.😡 Genesis replaced the module. The right thing to do.❤
Have an electrify america 40a charger that gives me a full charge overnight. In the beginning when I plugged in, the charging started immediately. Lately I have to lock or unlock the car to get the charging to start and then it still takes a few minutes to start..weird...Based on some of the charging problems I've read, should be glad I get a full charge.
EV6 owner here with a Juicebox 40 via NEMA 14-50 on a 50A circuit and a 170mi work commute. Car charged fine on max for the first 4000 miles, then started having the dreaded failed charging issue. Sifted through all the EV6 forums and Hyundai forums to find it is a widespread E-GMP issue and that others have had their charging port replaced due to the AC side temp sensor going bad... Not a single issue with the DC side... So for the next 6k miles I had to charge at EA stations everyday while waiting for parts to come; can't babysit the charging process at night, super frustrating... Kia had my car for 2.5 weeks, replaced my charging port and VCMS... I'm unhappy to report, it's back in the shop for the same issue...They think the new port is bad too. I'm one return away from Lemon Law and I will sell this thing back to them for an EV that can perform its most basic function, charging at night... It's completely ridiculous in my mind to advertise 48A charging capability and then force your customer to charge at 60-70% of rated charging speed.... Not only is this less efficient, but more costly for those of us who have time of use plans and rely on the higher speed to keep charging in the super off-peak hours. So not only inconvenienced, but costing more money.
@@MammyNun1 they're not waiting for parts...they replaced the port once... They're not doing it again... Kia wants them to troubleshoot the issue by sitting in the car with diag equipment and waiting for it to fail... Problem is their level 2 infrastructure is so old it charges at 6.1kw... Not enough to cause the failure... So they're not really sure what to do... Right now I'm driving a loaner that works great and I don't have to worry about when I wake up at 4am for my commute... So they can keep it as long as they want.
I have a different problem. Ever since my first service last week every so often I lock my car but get a message that my car is unlocked. Any suggestions?
I have never had a problem. I have a Ford Connected charge station. I have a brand new 60Amp circuit and I’m charging at 11.2 kW. I have been charging at home since 2/22. There has never been an interruption in charging. I have also charged on other Level 2 chargers including Tesla destination chargers with the Tesla Tap.. I have never had a problem with these either..
@@mickeywilko I had the parking brake recall done, it was just a software upgrade and it really didn't affect me because I always manually set the parking brake. I'm not having any issues with the charge port door.
On hot days only (92F+) with the vehicle in direct sunlight caused this issue. The fix was setting the wall unit to 32A and not charging in direct sunlight. The ioniq 5 sub reddit has a few people with this issue and the general consensus is the car is getting too hot while charging on hot days with the EVSE set to high amps. Lower the amps and charge in shade.
Maybe but a lot of us are having these issues in moderate ambient temps where the car/EVSE are garages. 68 degrees here last time I had the problem and the car had been stationary for 24 hours.
@@RandomDude3000 oh wow, had not heard that in such low temps. My inner engineer would want data; try and data log the car's battery temp during charging. I am unsure of any OBD2 data loggers that work while the ignition is off. It would be interesting to compare those temperatures to other cars charging in similar environments. Have you taken the car to the dealer..(I know that they can be less than helpful sometimes..)
i tried to charge my ioniq 5 today and it failed it cannot start tried 2 diffrent chargers at home none of them works. it trips house fuse when i try to charge with 7kw one . with the one i got with car it doesnt start charge at all. tried disconnect 12v battery for few minutes it dont work
The first time I charged my IONIQ 5 it just did not work. I tryed everything... The problem was the *new car* charging circuit itself. The dealer had to replace it.
I’ve had my car three weeks. It charged fine the first couple of times I used my new level charger (Lectron V-Box 48 Amp). I started having this issue just this week. I live in Texas and I charge at night when the ambient temps are between 75-80 degrees. I’ve had to reduce the amps on the charger today to 32 amps to get my car to charge fully. Very irritating to say the least.
I have a Wallbox and set it to 30amp maximum and have not had problems. Never needed more than 30 amps. I typically charge at 16amp unless I need the extra charge. Just hit 110 degrees here and no effect.
I finally got a hardwired 48A EVSE setup at my home yesterday and low and behold, it overheated. Now that I'm having the problem myself I'm going to make sure to make more of a stink about it and hopefully we can get some traction on getting the hardware problem fixed.
@@TheIoniqGuy Thanks. I think i isolated the problem. As you probably figured, it looks like it has to do with the heat generated at higher charging rates. When the problem first arose, I reduced the rate on the car dash. No problem for several charges. Last night, I increased it back to max and had the same problem again. Even when I switched it back to reduced, it stopped again. This morning when everything cooled down, I fully charged at the reduced setting with no problem. Next week, I will try increasing the car setting back to max but reduce the setting on the charger app to 30A (currently running at 40A). Hopefully, it will fully charge with no problem.
Hyundai is an absolute embarrassment. We have a brand new ioniq5 w479 miles and it won’t except our newly installed Level2 charger by Emporia. Now, the Emporia has the correct telltale lights including “connected” but the Ioniq5 simply won’t connect. After poking about on RUclips it appears that Hyundai does indeed have some charging problems. To make matters worse we contacted our dealer who said they had a backlog of issues along these lines and it would be a month before they could even check pour our 4 week old (to us) car. The dealer by the way is Hanlees in Richmond cA Now, I’m an engineer with a whole lot of experience in industrial electro mechanical systems do have some empathy for the complexity of our brand new $55000 vehicle in which we actually were sun Mb enough to buy the extended warranty. We will persevere and hopefully get past this but I have to say Hanlee and Hyunii so far have had their heads buried deeply in the sand, or possibly another word that starts w “s”
So many issues with this car and now this? Ugh. Just going to cancel my I5 order. Hyundai needs a few more iterations to work out the bugs. I'll stick with Tesla. Never had and a single issue over the last 4 years.
AC charging is interrupted when the AC Inlet Temperature 1 reaches 100°C or OBC Charger A/B temperature exceeds 60°C. These sensors are displayed in Car Scanner ELM OBD2 (to see these sensors on screen you need to update the dashboard in settings/Dashboard/Reset to default).
@@RandomDude3000 Probably a bad design, some parts will overheat during AC charging, reaching 100°C. Internal temperatures in these components of the on-board charger can be read with obd2 bluetooth dongle on a smartphone, there is a clear thermal threshold of 100°C.
My theory: To replicate the problem you need first to have outside temperatures on the hotter side and as a second condition a fixed maximum current on the high side such as 48 A or even as low as 40A ( as through a 14-50 socket). I believe that the EV internal charger (Hyundai and maybe others ) does not regulate and clip the current output accordingly that has the effect to go way over the nameplate rated kW and just trips the internal charger protection. Temporary Solution: reduce slightly the max current with programming in the Hyundai screen or the charger programming/ or DIP switches
Hi Corbin! Once I reduced my charge to minimum charge with 48A juice box hardwired, I no longer had a problem. If I keep it on maximum, or even reduced it would continuously fail. However, no problem with a public charger. Therefore, charging with the setting at a minimum at home, no longer having an issue. When I first bought my EV6 kia dealer said there was a problem with the charging module, they changed it for a brand new one, but in truth I think that was never the problem.
The people that answer “no” should also provide what type of charger is being used. This may serve to help eliminate certain chargers from being suspected in the problematic group and narrow down other issues.
Good call! I'll add that now
Emporia here..#6 conductor through out. 50amp breaker. Plug in for 40amps. No issues, florida 90degrees in garage avg.
No problems on my Hypervolt, and I haven't seen any complaints in the user forum. It is a fairly generic UK 7kW charger, and I haven't seen anyone reporting the issue in the UK Ioniq 5 forum and Facebook group.
Hi Ionic guy, having the same issue in Ireland. On chargers between 7kw and 22kW I get an error message “check electric vehicle system” and the car fails to charge. Below 7kw and on fast chargers, no issues. Not sure why this is occurring. Dealer could find no fault with the car when in the garage after it happened for the first time last month. Car will go back in to the garage for assessment next week.
Definitely the vehicle. I had the same problem using my ChargePoint Home Flex set at 48A. Night time temps. Had a service appointment scheduled and they couldn't find a problem. The error message they pulled up was inconclusive. Reduced to 40A and not a single interrupted charging session in a month since.
Thank you again for the umpteenth time. Your knowledge and presentation of the facts are a huge help to those of us how are old and not tech savvy! My Wallbox Pulsar 48 amp crashes everytime I charge my Ioniq 5 Limited AWD at 40 amps or above. My son has a 2019 Tesla 3 and has no issues charging at 48 Amps, so I know it's not the charger but my Ioniq 5. You didn't ask this question in the survey so I thought I would add that info.
Technove i48: no issue but I changed early (before the reported temperature effect on overloading the internal charger) the Stats current factor from 1.00 to 0.88 to be in conformity between the current/ kWh reported in the App and the values on the left Ioniq 5 screen as it showed 51-52A and 22 kW which is more than the internal charger max rating. This had the beneficial effect to ask a step down one current level from 48A to 44A.
Your assumption that it's not the charger is based upon the fact that the Tesla has no problem, but could it be that the Ionic system is more sensitive and is not prepared to charge when there's a potential problem?
It could be a communications rather than a power issue. Does the charger or the car abort the charge, and if the charger does it record why?
Thanks for posting this. I have 2 Ioniq 5's. Bought one Jan 2022 and one in July 2022. The Jan 2022 vehicle has never had charging issue, but the newer vehicle started giving me problems over the last several weeks. I did perform the head unit software update on both vehicles in Jan 2023 but I don't think this was the cause. Anyway, after watching this video, I took your advice and turned down the charging current and that seemed to work! (so far) I am surprised there is nothing online more recent from Hyundai/Kia addressing this problem. Let us know if you have any updates!
I haven't had an issue charging at home using my Clippercreek. It's only a 40 Amp that plugs into a 14-50 plug. The EV is set to "Reduced" AC Charger in the settings since I charge overnight.
Corbin, Thanks for addressing this. I completed the Survey but wanted to add some info. My Juicebox 40 level 2 charger I'm pretty certain is not the problem as I have spent several hours on the phone with Juicebox and they were gracious enough to look into it and even send me another one to test and the results were the same. I CANNOT charge my vehicle on level 2 charging 40amp with Max or reduced setting. I can only charge it on Minimum. This is pretty annoying and is still a problem. I did take the car to my local Hyundai dealer in AZ and they were clueless. They tried charging it on their ChargePoint Level 2 charger and said they had no issues. But when I asked what the amps were they said 32amp. So that's one difference. And I don't know what setting they used Max, Reduced or MIn. So I'm pretty much still no where and Hyundai (At least the dealer ) is clueless and won't do anything further. I really would like to charge at 40amp with at least the reduced setting if not he Max. It should work. Now, the only thing I don't know is if the HEAT in AZ is causing this random cut off. I got my car in 6/1 so I really have not had the vehicle with temps that you would consider reasonable or normal always been higher at this point. I'm hoping when Winter comes and our temps are in the 70's I will try again and see if I get a better result but somehow I don't think that's the problem. Any thoughts, do you have other reports similar? Thanks Brent
Kia has already replaced my charging port and VCMS once...it's back at the dealer again for the same problem... They think it's another bad port... The AC side has 1 temp sensor and the DC side has 2...for whatever reason there's something wrong with the AC temp sensor... No issues charging on public level 3 chargers.
Hi Corbin - so I had issues charging at ambient air temps (80-92F) in my garage at 40A with my Grizzl-E EVSE. This has only happened over the summer - during the Jan/July period I never had L2 charging issues with my EVSE or car charging to 80% without interruption. Starting in July I started getting the intermittent charging issues. At work I was able to charge just fine but that is a 30A charger limited to 7.1 KW/Hr, however I can charge even to 100% with that EVSE. Just for kicks, I dropped my Grizzl-E dip switch settings from 40 to 30A and the charging issues went away. I believe it is somehow heat related, as the Grizzl-E is UL certified, has heavy gauge copper for the connector, and I have made sure my cables are tightly torqued inside the Grizz (there have been burned up units due to loose internal connections). No issues whatsoever when fast charging from 50 - 230 KW/hr. I own the SEL Ioniq 5 BTW.
I had the same issue but it is the charger that is throttling due to heat. I took a small fan and put it on the charger itself and it charged just fine. So yeah from what you say the charger is actually getting too hot. Mine throttles at like 70 degrees Celsius.
I have that same Grizzl-E EVSE but it is using a 30A NEMA14-30 outlet so charging at 24 amps. This has charged every time regardless of any temperatures since March. I only used the DC fast charger once as there are no Electrify America chargers within 100 miles of my house. That session went up to 149kW on a 150kW charger and had no issues at 90 degrees F.
I did the survey. But my story is a bit more complex. My Grizzl-e was kicking out in warm / humid weather. It never flipped the 50 amp breaker. My car didn’t stop the charging. I brought the charging unit back to the manufacturer assuming that the unit was faulty. It was 2 months old. It passed the tests they put it through but I convinced them to exchange mine for a another unit. But I also had my electrician come to see if the problem was the installation. I wanted him to go over every connection and retighten each one. I had been advised by an electrician friend of mine that each connection had to be torqued to a specific amount, which they did. I went through the rest of the summer without incident. All this is say that Hyundai should look at each element to determine if it’s the car, the charger, the breaker and its torque connections, etc etc. Hate to muddy the waters but…..
No problems since December 2021. My Energy Zappi v2 charger @ 3 x 16A - 10,5 to 11kw charge all the time any time. Location Europe / The Netherlands. Sturdy 30ft cable suited for 3 x 25A
No problems in 9 months of ownership. I charge outside, overnight with a 7kw podpoint charger (UK).
My new Ioniq5 with less than 3k miles started this "charging failure" problem a few weeks ago. I found this channel, filled out the survey, and it prompted me to try "lower amps". Unfortunately, my Chargepoint Home Flex won't let me change the amps in the charger. I have a 70 amp circuit set up to charge at 50 amps, which is normally about 11kW. I set the Ioniq to "reduced" charging, which ended up being 10kW, and it still kept stopping and failing to charge. I set it again to "minimum" in the Ioniq, which ended up being 6.8kW (6.6kW according to the Chargepoint log), and it charged up completely without hiccup. Local Hyundai is still going to look at it in a few weeks, but I am keeping a very detailed log of my efforts to give them when they look at it.
Fortunately, the Chargepoint app logs the times and output of charging, so you can clearly see the chart as it drops out. I will sometimes restart charging on it's own after random long intervals.
If this ends up being a charger issue, I may have to completely reset and re-install the Chargepoint and set it at lower amps. At one time the Chargepoint would let users change the amp settings, but I guess enough people were abusing this that they removed this user accessible setting in the app.
Neither the Chargepoint nor the car itself ever give any kind of message as to "why" it stops charging. This seems like a logical error code for one or the other to log. Hopefully that is in the data that Hyundai can pull at the shop. We'll see.
It is my opinion that you should not leave all the charging cord on our charge point charger coiled on the wall hanger. Lay the hole cord out as straight as you can without coils on top of each other. Leaving it coiled greatly increases wire resistance thus wire temperature
Leaving it coiled does not increase the resistance by any appreciable amount. If you have an undersized cable it might heat it a bit more but really any charger that has a cable that close to the margin is not UL listed for sure. Yes, copper resistance increases with temperature, the coefficient near room temperature is 0.393% per degree C. But unless you have a really small and tightly packed coil this is not a big effect. You have the effect backwards- higher temperature increases the copper resistance- but coiling copper does not increase resistance and if fact for higher frequencies it decreases the impedance. Not too much effect at 60Hz.
Has there been any update on this? I was one of the first GV60 owners in the US (I was told I was the first in NJ) back in Spring 2022. I had no problems with charging for about 3 weeks at full 11kW, then the problems began. The only way to AC charge now is at Min 6kW rate. Took to dealer and they've had for a total of two months (two visits). Ended up replacing the charging module, that did not resolve the problem. I can reproduce the problem every time but so far Genesis has no response. Thankfully I don't need to normally charge faster than 6kW but there will be times when I'll need it (like at hotel or other dest charger). No problem with DC charging. Anything faster than 6kW will randomly stop within 30-45 mins. It's not related to the EVSE because I can reproduce this on other charger type and I also replaced the ChargePoint Flex once (in the very beginning when problem started). You'd be a hero if you can get to the bottom of this!! :-) I read somewhere that a guy had his "charging cable assembly" replaced and that resolved it for him. To me, it seems like something goes haywire after about 2-3 weeks of use and then problem starts.
I’ve pestered them a few times and have only gotten silence. Going to bug them again soon
@@TheIoniqGuy I fired off a complain to Genesis a few days back, got a quick response from them via a phone call from a seemingly concerned woman. I explained the situation and she said someone would contact me in next day or two and they would contact the dealer where I had it serviced at. That's where I lost all hope because the dealer doesn't know what to do. They are also a Hyundai dealer so I would think the Hyundai side would have come across this issue on the Ioniq... but it seemed like getting the Genesis guys to walk around the corner (25') to talk to the Hyundai guys about it wasn't in the cards :-( I was clear with the lady that I don't want to be the "guinea pig" for a third time while the inexperienced Genesis guys hack at a fix over the phone with S Korea... so let's see how well that message was received. It's a shame because the dealer is awesome, but they openly admit that they have almost no working experience on these cars as of yet - so there's no ability to think on their own and they just go right to corporate for direction. There's so much info about this problem out there... one guy even has error codes, cable temps, graphs, etc. Are you having the issue on your Ioniq5?
Link to the guy with the error codes / temps / graphs?
I've had this issue a few times. It's definitely not the EVSE (even tho mine is not certified). I will be filling out the form but wanted to comment saying that I was using the max charge current until I started to have issues. Moved down to the middle option and has been flawless ever since. Thanks for the video and dedication to the brand!!
I’m using the Emporia charger and have never had a failed session. I’m charging between 6A and 48A. Actually the charger will change the amperage to harvest only excess solar production if configured this way, and it works very well and totally seamlessly. Very easy to set up. The smartest charger that seems to exist!
I have the same charger. I paid 1200 dollars for mine to be installed. Mine started stop charging with my car. I'm not an expert but using 50amp breaker. Mine will charge for 1 hour then it will say charge failure.
@@tempcbuilds Unlikely to be the Emporia’s fault. Do you have an Ioniq 5 and you charge at 48A? Then overheating of the charge port is a common issue and this is why the session fails.
This issue started for me approximately 3 weeks ago after an OTA update on my Ioniq 5 Limited in the US. I have a Grizzl-e Classic at 40 amps. I did not have any issues all summer, even in 85+ degree temps, but now am having intermittent charging stops even with temps around 60 degrees and the car cold (not recently driven). The issue does not appear to be temperature related for me, but does appear to be related to the OTA update I received.
We just started having this issue after 3 months of EV6 ownership. We were able to charge at 30A every week and now get “charging interrupted” errors.
We’ve been using the same EVSE on our Leaf for years now with no issues. And would be very surprised if it’s heat as it’s in the 40s (F) in our garage ATM.
It’s failed at the “max” and “moderate” settings. Now testing with the “minimum” setting…
Hi Craig. What ended up happening with your issue?
My Ioniq 5 and my Lectron 40 A garage charger has been interrupting the charge after one hour of use. I restart it and 30 minutes later it stops again. I restart it, and 20 minutes later stops again. Hoping for better results in the fall (temperature sensors is my guess)
With my GV60, I have had similar problems with three chargers: Emporia @ 11kw, Chargepoint @ 6kw, and EA DC charging @85kw. It does not fail with an error - with the AC charging, it just drops to zero for some seconds to minutes, and starts again. With the DC charger, the charge session ended and needed to be restarted twice before I gave up continuing.
This issue is really weird. I've experienced this issue when I charged at home, in both hot weather and regular weather. I mostly charge at my work with Level 2 charger but never experienced the issue. The only explanation I have is that L2 charger at work can produce maximum 6kW, where at home my setup can deliver close to 10kW. I was able to charge at 10kW/h when the car was still new but for limited time. My work around at home is to reduce my charging current to minimum which would produce ~5.5 kW. This could explain why charging at work, I don't see the same issues (~6kW).
I know my EVES and wiring at home are done properly, so I don't suspect my system.
I can’t charge at 11 kW, which is the EV6’s max, at home because the ChargePoint home flex tops out at 40 amps and thus it supplies 9.2 kW. Never had a single issue. Now a couple months ago when I didn’t want to be as big a burden to the Central Ohio grid I used the “gear” icon lower right corner of the EV screen to set charging rate on level 2 to the lowest setting to be a good neighbor. I think that’s about 5 kW at home in that case. I’ve also done that at a vacation house on 110 volts and even there you can drop it down from 1.4 kW to 1.1 kW. Again I just wanted to minimize load and I had 4 days to charge back up before we left the beach. Maybe you have a bad breaker? Is there another way to load test a circuit? Or perhaps the EVSE settings are wrong or it went bad and needs to be replaced. Maybe not likely but definitely possible. It’d be cool to find another 10 kW charger nearby to eliminate the variable of the car. Or ask a buddy to use your setup and see what they get charging.
A lot of people in my area says the charger is overheating (or at least the sensor judges it's too hot) when charging at 11kW on level 2, especially in summer, but when the outside temperature is around 50-60F, there's no issues. In order to make their car charge in the summer, they have to put the Chargepoint Home Flex limit to 50 or 40 Amp, so the output is lower and it doesn't overheat. Your problem seems related to the same
@@skyemalcolm
Well, I have installed a new circuit breaker already before I got my EV. I made sure all the wires are sized correctly before ether contractor install them EVES. I have JuiceBox which according to the reviews works fine.
I have a friend of mine that has ioniq 5 different trim and same JuiceBox. I'll try to rest my car over there to see if I'm getting the same issue.
@@IlTad it’s always nice to do Round Robin testing. Move the car around to multiple chargers and see what happens. Then likewise move multiple cars through a given charger. Obviously if it’s temperature related that that puts an extra variable in the mix so you might need a decent amount of testing to see if anything reveals itself as the root cause.
I can monitor the VCMS port temperature via the ODBC port. I've been charging with my Chargepoint Home Flex for 7 months in cooler temp at 48A (11.2kw) rate. Now the charge fails after about 30 minutes at 70F. Dropped charge rate to 40A(9.6kw) and port temp is staying below the trip point of 100C. Now that temps are to 80F, after one hour it shuts off at 100C so will be forced to drop to 32A(7.6KW).
I have had a Kia Soul EV 64 kWh for almost two years. 15 months ago, I had to take it to the garage due to an overall electrical fault light appearing after fast charge. Subsequently the sensors started acting up, the consumption was erroneous and the amount of battery left over was not in agreement with the remaining km. The garage deliberated 8 months with a courtesy car offered during 6 of those months. I have had to pay hotels and fuel costs that were not in the plan.
The car was returned to me and after 500km, the same issue. After a further 3 months in the workshop, a problem with the engine was detected and repaired. 600 km later and after just one charge, the same problems have appeared. I got a substitute car from Kia (gasoline). The workshop again. 1.5 months later the car was picked up and this time, 2 complete charges before the SAME symptoms appeared AGAIN. At this point, the car is back in the last shop and I’m waiting for Kia’s response to have the car swapped for another unit or other solution since this has caused untold issues for work.
😒
Hi - super helpful video; now I know I'm not alone lol. I have an Ioniq5 that was intermittently cycling on and off with charging on my JuiceBox48, to the point it would take nearly two days to get a full charge. Speaking with tech support at Enel-x/JuiceBox has been helpful so far. They remotely set my amperage from 48A to 24A and it worked great. So the plan is to increase by 6A at a time (currently at 30A) until we reach a point where it stops being able to maintain charging, and then back off a bit. Work in progress but the tech said the sweet spot for the Ioniq5 seems to be around 34A.
Thank you for bringing up and tracking this important issue.
Not sure where the survey link is but I have 2 Juicebox 40 amp chargers and have or had several other electric cars (Chevy Bolt, BMW ix50, Audi e-Tron, and Volvo XC90 plug in) and they all are charging or charged fine on these chargers except for the Ioniq 5, regardless of which Juicebox charger I use. The Ioniq has shut down charging dozens of time before reaching the maximum charge whether I have it set at 80, 90 or 100%. It is not the temperature, cable or charger. it is the car. I want the car to charge at the maximum level/speed or that is a huge problem as I have two other electric cars. One selling point of this car is the speed at which it charges and its range. This changes that entirely. It seems to add another 4-8% charge before stopping. The Ioniq charges fine on level 3 chargers. The dealership claimed they had never heard of this problem when I brought the car in and said they thought it was my charger, which is of course not true. I called Hyundai and they are getting back to me. This is incredibly disappointing and frustrating as overall we like the car but this is a fatal flaw. It's like having a gas car where you can't fill the gas tank. I called Juicebox technical support and the technician shared readouts from several Ioniq charging sessions which show that current is being delivered but that the car is shutting down the charging session. He knew exactly what I was talking about and even asked if I had an Ioniq before I told him when I said I was having charging issues. I am also going to send this to Consumer reports. They need to find a fix for this ASAP or the cars should be recalled
Chargepoint Flex having issue too 48amp service and Hyundai is aware. They know its a heating issue that turns off the charging. Its annoying!!!
Had this issue on mine for about 3 months. UK based ioniq 5 owner. Have had the car recalled and supposedly fixed but it hasn’t fixed the issue. I start charging then the car stops the charging randomly after about 30mins. It’s definitely not the charging port as I’ve had that checked and I’ve also used different cables and other ports than my own and the problem still continues.
Purchased Grizzl E, worked fine the first three weeks or so. Now only charges about 2-5% then we hear "charging unsuccessful." Spoke with rep, they can't guarantee it won't again with their new model. Purchased ChargePoint, waiting/hoping it will work. Very frustrating and challenging as we live out in the country!
Had issues with JuiceBox. Switched to Grizzly. My setup was at 20 amps so I had to set the Grizzly at 16 amps. Woeks perfectly on my 2022 Kona EV. JuiceBox was a problem because it was setup much higher and kept on shutting down within 10 minutes.
I would love to take your survey but cannot get the link to work. My details:
2022 Kia EV6 Wind RWD, 2,000 miles on it
EVSE: Shell Recharge portable (the 40 Amp model)
Conditions that caused charge interruption: max L2 current setting in the car, and max (40 Amp) output set on the EVSE. Garage air temp about 85 F. Would occur 1-1.5 hours in to a charging session.
Resolution: stopped getting the error by reducing the EVSE current setting from 40 to 32 Amps. No change made to garage air temperature or the car's L2 current settings.
i feel it is definitely an EGMP platform problem. i own 2 EV6's and a Mach-E GT. charge with a Grizzl-e avalanche edition, or a Grizzl-e Duo. both are set to 40amp, but the Duo obviously splits the power when plugged into two cars. under all different scenarios, and in fairly wide temp ranges, i have had problems with the EV6's, but never the Mach- E. i will say that hotter temps are worse, though. failures are very intermittent and impossible to predict. never had a problem DC fast charging anything. my EV6's are set to maximum current charging and i have never changed that. i have had the re-flash done for the transmission parking brake issue on both EV6's (and the re-flash on the Mach-E for Ford's recall on the battery terminal connectors).
Have my GV60 for about a month. Mostly charge at home with a Chargepoint at 40 amps. (In New Jersey, so far at moderate temperature) No problems at all.
You may want to do a separate video on charging losses. These vary strongly depending on amperage. When charging at close to 48A, I have a loss of around 10% (cable and inverter combined). When charging at 1.1kW, the loss is a whopping 56%. At 2.5kW it is 21%. So it pays to charge at the fastest possible rate unless this means you can’t harvest excess solar power.
That might be something to investigate since I charge on level 1 at 1.2kW 95% of the time. What are you using to measure losses?
@@TheIoniqGuy An OBD scanner will tell you how much power is actually going into the battery. The car display tells you how much is going into the car - and there is a big difference. There is a bit of a loss between charger and car and you can see what the charger says it is putting out vs what the car is taking in. And lastly cabling losses (which rise with power) can be seen by measuring voltage at the charger compared to voltage elsewhere in the house. This bit needs a bit of a setup but I’m sure no problem for you :)
Holy crap, Ludwig. I just ran some numbers with my level 1 and level 2 chargers. I'm spending 5 times more on losses using level 1 than if I had been using my level 2 at 9.3kw. That equates to $16/month spent on heating my garage lol. I'm done with level 1 now. Thank you for enlightening me
@@TheIoniqGuy , I didn’t realise until recently myself. It is a known “issue” for all EVs - the level of losses varies somewhat according to tests I have seen reported in Germany. I’m sure that sooner or later there will be a greater focus on this and EV manufacturers will have to compete on minimizing charging losses. That said it will always be the case that higher charging rates will lead to lower relative charging losses.
God bless having a EA station mere blocks away from home and ability to charge at office when needed (lv1 &2 on their dime)
I haven’t seen this issue pop up before this video, I’m not on a ton of forums, but nothing in the EV6 Facebook group. I run a 40Amp circuit so have my charger set to 32 AMP. This is more than enough for easily charging overnight even from sub 20% charge levels. My car was purchased in Feb 2022 so an early build, might be worth asking for build dates to see if maybe the issues are more prevalent in newer or older builds in the event there was a hardware change that might be causing the issues. I have also charged at public level 2 chargers at the higher “max” charging speeds and never had any failures.
hi - I am having this issue with my 2023 Ioniq 5 and Juicebox 40 charging station. I have tried to change the gfci breaker (several times and now have a 60amp), replaced the Juicebox 40 station, changed the DC charge in the car (with each of the options from max, reduced and min) - at first everything was working and then it started tripping the breaker. Now sometimes it will work for a few hours and other times, trip after 15 minutes. Is there an outcome from the survey or suggestions to try? I don't know if I should call the dealer, the charging station folks, or what. My electrician and I have tried so many things and it is so frustrating! We have the portable station - do you know if that is the issue and a hard wired one would be better?
You google forms is only suitable for US, here in europe we charge with 400V on Level 2 and so the max. current/phase is only 16A. My Ioniq 5 doesn't have any charging problems from 4-11kW charging at home.
Hey there. We are a 2 EV family. I’m using an adapter to use my Tesla plug on my Ionic 5. My Hyundai refuses to start charging unless I put in accessory mode. Then, I can turn it off and charging continues. Manufacturer rep admitted it is a known problem.
If you buy a Tesla Tap Mini, it will charge normally.
I had zero problems with my Juicebox 48A for almost 7 weeks charging at least a dozen times. Started having problems last 2 times. When this problem happened yesterday, I reduced the amps to 40 on the Juicebox and it successfully charged without any interruption. If it can take only 40A, why did I spend extra dollars for the 48A?
Hi Corbin
Grizzle replaced my unit about a month ago but I still have problems on maximum setting. They are sending a factory technician tomorrow to do some tests. I will let you know what they have to say.
Thanks, Tony
I wanted to come back to say that the results page of the survey doesn't show what chargers people are using that are failing. My Hyundai dealer says my Ioniq5 has "no error codes or logs" to point to why it stops charging. My Chargepoint Home Flex app gives no errors either. The dealer "looked" at my car for two weeks, can't figure anything out, but I don't even think they played with the charging amperage settings because when I picked it up it was still set to "minimum", which makes no sense. I am starting to wonder if the issue is with my Chargepoint. Are others having this issue with different chargers?
I have a new Ioniq 5 at work and we use Leviton charging stations. At first it would charge without issue to 90%. Now its only charging in 10 minutes intervals and shutting off with message saying "Check electric vehicle system". If we restart the process, its shutting off consistently every 10 minutes and having to unplug and replug. It goes into the dealer tomorrow to figure out why? We have a 2nd ioniq 5 that charges to 90% without issue(however only has 200 miles on it compared to the one i use with 1600) using same charging stations as well as volvo, audi and tesla without issue.
Ok my guess is that people having level 2 charging issues are tripping their breakers. I totally use the reduced charging settings more so when I want to put less load on the system. I have never ever used a knock off EVSE. I have successfully used an old Nissan LEAF 110 V EVSE many times. At home I’ve successfully used a hard wired ChargePoint Flex on a 50 amp breaker with the EV6, an old Nissan LEAF and a Honda Clarity PHEV. Zero issues for 2 years. Sometimes it’s 90-95 degrees here in the summer again no issues. Many many charges at outdoor level 2 chargers without issue.
I have had an Ioniq 5 in the UK since Oct and not had a problem. I use a Pod Point level 2 charger - which is what Hyundai UK recommend.
Same thing on my HyperVolt but UK chargers are set to 32A not the 40/48A the Americans use.
I’ve bee charging our Ioniq 5 for 6 mos w the juicebox and had no issues. And no issues w our other EVs. Our gv60 is constantly getting interrupted. I find the car more glitchy in general. This is so inconvenient as several times I assume the car was fully charged only to realize mid trip that I might not have enough range as the car wasn’t charged.
No issues here, I use a ChargePoint Homeflex on a 50 amp breaker. I schedule charging to 80% M-F starting at 2100.
I had this problem and did lower my current from 40 amps to 32 amps.
I did trouble shoot this and have my EV Juicenet replaced to see if that was the problem. It didn't help.
Lowering my amps did work.
YES! My IONIQ 5 will not do overnight scheduled charging. I have to manually enable it Worked for 2 two weeks then stopped. Worked one night again then not again since.
I only charged my Ioniq 5 on my Juicebox 40 for 3 months with no issues. I recently took my first road trip and charged up on 350kw EA chargers. The next time I tried to charge at home on my Juicebox 40 I got the dreaded failed charge error multiple times. It was relatively hot that day and I was previously typically charging at night. I'm not sure if it is heat related, some issue was caused by the EA charger or if it was just coincidence.
I started out using my Chargepoint Flex at 48 amps connected using 6 guage copper and a 60A dedicated breaker 6 feet from the electrical panel I have 200A service and had no home electrical issues other than having to replace the panel from the October storms in 2012. Had no issues until May when the weather was warmer. The Chargepoint would charge for an hour and then report that the car was drawing little current and fully charged. I could disconnect and reconnect and get another hour of charge but overnight charging wasn't working. After reading some posts online I called Chargepoint and had them factory reset the charger, set it up for 40 amps and it worked for a month with the Ioniq 5 set to Maximum (charged at 37mi/hr) now it's working at 40A car set to reduced (30mi/hr) reliably. Once the weather gets consistently cooler (I'm in CT USA) I will try and change the car back to maximum.
If you're going to charge at a maximum of 48A, you need to hardwire your EVSE to a 60A circuit or risk an electrical fire.
@@LOWFLYER777 You're correct, I installed a 60A circuit. I incorrectly specified a 50A circuit in my post.
I've had this very few times using the charger "juice booster 2" here in Europe, which is one of the best, capable to deliver up to 22kw under 32A over 3 phases of 400V, even if ioniq5 can get 11kw max in AC.
I am currently using it only in single phase under 230V and 13A, for a max power of 3kW.
This seems to happen only under high temp exterior condition, above 30°C or 86° F.
I suspect the cause to be the 5m electrical extension cable, connecting the charger to the 220V house outlet, overheating but I'm not sure... I have recently replaced the extension cable by one more "professional grade" made for boats.
Thank you for sharing your experience and setup. I will probably have to use a very similar setup in a few weeks when I get my Ioniq5 (knock on wood). I planned to use the 10m extension offered by juice though, because my 3 phase 400V 32A outlet is on the wrong side. Also planning to charge with just 3kw to help maintain a good battery health.
What is your SoC limit? I might set it to 70% or even 65%, since letting it sit for too long on a high SoC (or even 100%) seems to have a significant negative impact on battery degradation.
@@MesoScale Hi, for a long extension cable of 10m or higher I would advice you to go to 4mm2 copper to avoid voltage drops, and take boat graded flexible cables, not a basic cable from local home depot. I do not limit charge currently in AC, charge 80% of the time using home AC in single phase. ON DC I limit to 90%
@@FrancisdeBriey great tipp with the cable, thank you
I had my ev6 fail 4 times in a row after about 15 minutes or so using the chargepoint flex. After rebooting the charger it has been fine. But if I get home late and plug in the car go to bed. And it fails I will be sol as I drive 100 miles a day for work. I will be looking into other chargers at this point.
I have stayed at a hotel that had a Tesla Destination charger as well. I used the Tesla to J1772 adaptor and had the same results, "Charging Unsuccessful." Staring charging through the app or the on/off trick works.
I love my GV60 but this probkem started a cluples of weeks ago. Charges like 10 % and stops. Sometimes charges well but others like 10% aproxx and stops.
No longer a problem. Ioniq 5 Limited. Had the issue with Lectron portable charger and ChargePoint home charger. Solved it by lowering the current in the car. I highly doubt it is the charger, this is a car problem. I still charge overnight easily, so no big deal. But I can live with it. Still crappy. Hope they fix it.
Car charged perfectly for 8 months - then this issue started early summer. Has to be related to the parking brake recall or charging door updates. Minimum current solves the problem. At first I suspected it was temperature related due to warm summer - but it will fail outdoors well below 15°c. Hyundai MUST know what the issue is?!
I an in Ontario Canada and have the TechnoVE 48A #BR240V-I48 (Quebec company) which is a hard wired unit. I had a professional electrician install the charger. I have been experiencing intermittent charging failures since I moved in to my new house October 1st. I upgraded my panel so I could run my charger off a 60A breaker. TechnoVE tech support told me throttle down to 40A using their French only app which I have done. I have only 1 charging session at 40A so far and it seemed to have charged from 60% to 100% without failure. Hopefully this matter is resolved soon as I paid quite a lot to upgrade my service so I could charge at 11.5 kW speed which the EV6 can accept.
I have a ChargePoint charger and it's hardwired on a 60amp circuit... the charger was working fine for a few weeks at 48 amps.... all the sudden it would not charge longer then about an hour. Reducing the rate from 48 Amp to 40amp has worked at least for now.
Excellent, can't thank you enough, I have not had issues, but I am retired electrician and the aluminum, and incorrect wire size are spot on. 😉 thnx.
You probably remember all that aluminum that got run in the 60s and 70s. That was a brilliant idea 😂
@@TheIoniqGuy ohh yeah, I worked in NYC for 40yrs. The alum. Home fires, and then in Manhattan with 500mcm cables alum. Over heating..yikes, but we made a lot of dough replacing it. Lol.
I've had the same issue charging from my Wallbox EVSE at 40A. I called Wallbox a couple weeks ago, they told me they were well aware of the issue and had rented an Ioniq 5 to try and see what can be done on their end. I'm also having an issue where I frequently get a text that my doors are unlocked when they are not. I can be driving down the road when I get these notifications and I get them in the middle of my charging sessions. Could these false 'doors unlocked' notifications be contributing to the problem?
I had issues charging, it was SUPER frustrating because the car would not TELL me it stopped charging so I would have to constantly refresh the app/web page to check status, I am in a cold northern environment and I was having issues when it was a humid 55F degrees out at night, keep in mind charging OUTSIDE. turns out, don't buy junk chargers
I bought a LEFANEV 40Amp EV Charger Level 2,25ft NEMA 14-50 9.68KW and it was the complete and sole cause of my issue, bought an autel and have been happy since
(always charging at maximum)
Juice Plus 48; excellent reputation; cold night; started charge to 80%; woke up @30%; blue link msg: charger disconnected-NOT; had to disconnect, reconnect and charge; @60% stopped again. Repeat process; 3rd time reached 80%; have EV charge at Max; will try one step down; if this works I will be very upset; a selling point for me was the car would accept a 40 amp charge.
Also remember the hotter the charger gets it will throttle down. So if you have the charger in direct sun in the summer time it will get hot. Mine throttles at 70 Celsius for example. I put a small fan on it and it boosted back up to its normal charging rate. I’ve never had a failed charge. It just gets really slow if the charger gets too hot.
We recently got the fix which included a software update at the dealer to fix the run away in park recall for our EV6 but have not charged with our level 2 charger yet. We normally charge at level 1. I will try our level 2 charger on our next charge with our SolarEdge 7.7kW (to 9.2kW with Solar Boost during the daylight hours) combined solar inverter with EV charger today and let everyone know.
No problem charging my Kia EV6 with my level 2 charger, SolarEdge 7.7kW (to 9.6kW with solar boost during daylight hours).
I only experience this at home. My previous car 2018 Nissan Leaf never had this issue using this exact same NEMA 14-50 outlet.
Isn't there also an issue if you plug a GFCI charger (pretty much a given) into a circuit that has a GFCI breaker at the panel? I think I have read about similar symptoms when that is the case.
We were able to lower our Amps from 40 to 32, and that seems to have helped.
I own both an EV6 and GV60. We use the recommended Chargpoint charger. We are hooked up to a 60amp breaker and have the ability to charge at 48amps and use the full 11kw speed.
Both vehicles have AC charging failures after about 45-60 min. Yes. This is a known problem. I have had both vehicles in for repair.
Kia is using a bandaid and will do a service bulletin with s software "Upgrade" that kills the charging speed by about 40% after less than an hour in lieu of it shutting off. The EV module is overheating. It is not the charger. Both vehicles advertise a charge speed of 11kw. The fix drops it to 7.2 but strips the purchaser of the advertised speed.😡
Genesis replaced the module. The right thing to do.❤
does it work fine on genesis after the fix ?
32a 7wh no issue big guy.
Have an electrify america 40a charger that gives me a full charge overnight. In the beginning when I plugged in, the charging started immediately. Lately I have to lock or unlock the car to get the charging to start and then it still takes a few minutes to start..weird...Based on some of the charging problems I've read, should be glad I get a full charge.
EV6 owner here with a Juicebox 40 via NEMA 14-50 on a 50A circuit and a 170mi work commute.
Car charged fine on max for the first 4000 miles, then started having the dreaded failed charging issue. Sifted through all the EV6 forums and Hyundai forums to find it is a widespread E-GMP issue and that others have had their charging port replaced due to the AC side temp sensor going bad... Not a single issue with the DC side... So for the next 6k miles I had to charge at EA stations everyday while waiting for parts to come; can't babysit the charging process at night, super frustrating... Kia had my car for 2.5 weeks, replaced my charging port and VCMS... I'm unhappy to report, it's back in the shop for the same issue...They think the new port is bad too. I'm one return away from Lemon Law and I will sell this thing back to them for an EV that can perform its most basic function, charging at night...
It's completely ridiculous in my mind to advertise 48A charging capability and then force your customer to charge at 60-70% of rated charging speed.... Not only is this less efficient, but more costly for those of us who have time of use plans and rely on the higher speed to keep charging in the super off-peak hours. So not only inconvenienced, but costing more money.
Any updates Justin?
@@MammyNun1 no, still at the dealership... They're not sure what to do. They'd like to blame it on me, but my Niro EV loaner works great lol
@@LOWFLYER777 Cool that at least you got an EV loaner. Curious why they need to keep it in the shop while waiting for parts?
@@MammyNun1 they're not waiting for parts...they replaced the port once... They're not doing it again... Kia wants them to troubleshoot the issue by sitting in the car with diag equipment and waiting for it to fail... Problem is their level 2 infrastructure is so old it charges at 6.1kw... Not enough to cause the failure... So they're not really sure what to do... Right now I'm driving a loaner that works great and I don't have to worry about when I wake up at 4am for my commute... So they can keep it as long as they want.
Maybe they need our car@@LOWFLYER777. It’s failing at 6.1kw. ;) Now testing at 4kw…
I have a different problem. Ever since my first service last week every so often I lock my car but get a message that my car is unlocked. Any suggestions?
I have never had a problem. I have a Ford Connected charge station. I have a brand new 60Amp circuit and I’m charging at 11.2 kW. I have been charging at home since 2/22. There has never been an interruption in charging. I have also charged on other Level 2 chargers including Tesla destination chargers with the Tesla Tap.. I have never had a problem with these either..
Have you received parking brake recall or charging door update?
@@mickeywilko I had the parking brake recall done, it was just a software upgrade and it really didn't affect me because I always manually set the parking brake. I'm not having any issues with the charge port door.
No issues here. I'm using the Grizzl-E 40 amps.
On hot days only (92F+) with the vehicle in direct sunlight caused this issue. The fix was setting the wall unit to 32A and not charging in direct sunlight.
The ioniq 5 sub reddit has a few people with this issue and the general consensus is the car is getting too hot while charging on hot days with the EVSE set to high amps. Lower the amps and charge in shade.
Maybe but a lot of us are having these issues in moderate ambient temps where the car/EVSE are garages. 68 degrees here last time I had the problem and the car had been stationary for 24 hours.
@@RandomDude3000 oh wow, had not heard that in such low temps. My inner engineer would want data; try and data log the car's battery temp during charging. I am unsure of any OBD2 data loggers that work while the ignition is off. It would be interesting to compare those temperatures to other cars charging in similar environments.
Have you taken the car to the dealer..(I know that they can be less than helpful sometimes..)
@@mordillokiwi I really don’t want my car to become the Guinea pig so I’m hoping to wait for a decent solution to surface before I take the car in.
i tried to charge my ioniq 5 today and it failed it cannot start tried 2 diffrent chargers at home none of them works. it trips house fuse when i try to charge with 7kw one . with the one i got with car it doesnt start charge at all. tried disconnect 12v battery for few minutes it dont work
The first time I charged my IONIQ 5 it just did not work. I tryed everything... The problem was the *new car* charging circuit itself. The dealer had to replace it.
I have had no problems with my Grizzley Classic which I have set on 32 Amps, on a 50 Amp circuit.
April 2023...any update out there on this? Can we see the survey results?
See my recent video. There is a software update available that will dial back charging speeds as the connector warms up
One way to isolate the problem, can you charge at a Volta Station which is level 2 charging.
I only charge my car after 12AM that’s probably why I don’t have that’s issue. I’m using 50AMP with no issues. I guess I’m bless.
I’ve had my car three weeks. It charged fine the first couple of times I used my new level charger (Lectron V-Box 48 Amp). I started having this issue just this week. I live in Texas and I charge at night when the ambient temps are between 75-80 degrees. I’ve had to reduce the amps on the charger today to 32 amps to get my car to charge fully. Very irritating to say the least.
Thanks!
Thank you, Alan!
I have a Wallbox and set it to 30amp maximum and have not had problems. Never needed more than 30 amps. I typically charge at 16amp unless I need the extra charge. Just hit 110 degrees here and no effect.
No issues here. I have JuiceBox 40.
Any update on the failed charging issue? I am experiencing it on EV6
I finally got a hardwired 48A EVSE setup at my home yesterday and low and behold, it overheated. Now that I'm having the problem myself I'm going to make sure to make more of a stink about it and hopefully we can get some traction on getting the hardware problem fixed.
@@TheIoniqGuy Thanks. I think i isolated the problem. As you probably figured, it looks like it has to do with the heat generated at higher charging rates. When the problem first arose, I reduced the rate on the car dash. No problem for several charges. Last night, I increased it back to max and had the same problem again. Even when I switched it back to reduced, it stopped again. This morning when everything cooled down, I fully charged at the reduced setting with no problem. Next week, I will try increasing the car setting back to max but reduce the setting on the charger app to 30A (currently running at 40A). Hopefully, it will fully charge with no problem.
It will be the Smart Meter switching off the chargers. Take out the Smart Meter and it will work.
Great Job
Hyundai is an absolute embarrassment. We have a brand new ioniq5 w479 miles and it won’t except our newly installed Level2 charger by Emporia. Now, the Emporia has the correct telltale lights including “connected” but the Ioniq5 simply won’t connect. After poking about on RUclips it appears that Hyundai does indeed have some charging problems.
To make matters worse we contacted our dealer who said they had a backlog of issues along these lines and it would be a month before they could even check pour our 4 week old (to us) car.
The dealer by the way is Hanlees in Richmond cA
Now, I’m an engineer with a whole lot of experience in industrial electro mechanical systems do have some empathy for the complexity of our brand new $55000 vehicle in which we actually were sun
Mb enough to buy the extended warranty.
We will persevere and hopefully get past this but I have to say Hanlee and Hyunii so far have had their heads buried deeply in the sand, or possibly another word that starts w “s”
I started having this problem right after the recall software update
I dont know about anyone else but i paid 60k for my car. I have the cheapest model. Ioniq 5. This needs to be recall man.
Using JuiceBox 40amp, no issue
So many issues with this car and now this? Ugh. Just going to cancel my I5 order. Hyundai needs a few more iterations to work out the bugs. I'll stick with Tesla. Never had and a single issue over the last 4 years.
AC charging is interrupted when the AC Inlet Temperature 1 reaches 100°C or OBC Charger A/B temperature exceeds 60°C. These sensors are displayed in Car Scanner ELM OBD2 (to see these sensors on screen you need to update the dashboard in settings/Dashboard/Reset to default).
So Alan, are you saying this is a defect or the vehicle is behaving as designed?
@@RandomDude3000 Probably a bad design, some parts will overheat during AC charging, reaching 100°C. Internal temperatures in these components of the on-board charger can be read with obd2 bluetooth dongle on a smartphone, there is a clear thermal threshold of 100°C.
Are you going to share the results of your survey in a future video?
Sure will. Once data really slows down I'm gonna start analyzing it
I had the similar issue with DC charger (EA)
No problem charging my ev6 .I charge twice a week
ChargePoint never had a problem EV six
This just started happening to my GV60...
Can’t believe between 3 car companies they can’t get this figured out already
@@TheIoniqGuy I just found your video because this situation just started happening on my new car.
I dunno man, might still be a little too early for EVs to be prime-time.
My theory:
To replicate the problem you need first to have outside temperatures on the hotter side and as a second condition a fixed maximum current on the high side such as 48 A or even as low as 40A ( as through a 14-50 socket).
I believe that the EV internal charger (Hyundai and maybe others ) does not regulate and clip the current output accordingly that has the effect to go way over the nameplate rated kW and just trips the internal charger protection.
Temporary Solution: reduce slightly the max current with programming in the Hyundai screen or the charger programming/ or DIP switches
Just buy a tesla
No