Pretty disappointing, I've been noticing problems for several months, I thought it was my EVSE that was going bad so I bought another one and this one was crapping out also so I connected the dots finally definitely the car after I measured 239° 😮
2022 Kia EV6 RWD Wind owner here. I try to charge at home at 40 Amps (approx. 9.0-9.4kW). My charge was interrupting at "Maximum AC Charge" setting on the vehicle, 40Amps output on the EVSE, usually after about 30-120 minutes of charging like this. I was able to prevent this issue from occurring by switching to "minimum AC Charge" setting on the vehicle, which amounted to about 5.6kW charging power being drawn from the EVSE. This started happening about 1-2 months after I got the car, and before I had even hit the 5,000 mile mark. I had TSB ELE283 applied to my car in early March, 2023, and since then my Level 2 charging sessions no longer cut off and get interrupted by the temperature detected at the charging port. Instead, what happens is that on the "Maximum AC Charge" setting on the vehicle, I get the full 40 Amps from my EVSE (about 9.0-9.4kW) for usually up to 2 hours, and then it throttles down. I have tracked this and found that, over what is usually a 7 hour charging session (cheapest electricity rates), my average power drawn is about 5.7-6.5 kW. Meaning I'm starting at ~9kW for 1-2 hours, and then it drops down to a level more in line with or slightly less than I'd have with just straight "minimum AC Charging" as my setting, and overall it's a rate of about 6 kW. This is a livable scenario for me, but I agree it's not okay that the car can't take 11 kW, as advertised, especially when it seems like no other EV platform outside of the EGMP cars seems to experience this issue when L2 charging.
My EV6 does this. The TSB doesn’t even throttle my charging, it still interrupts the charging and doesn’t chargers at all. ELE-283 is what I had installed at a dealership. 48amp charging does not work.
I went through this with my Ioniq 5. The Hyundai Dealers all have 30A chargers. Ultimately they said there's no issue because they can't replicate the issue at the dealer. I had a case open with Hyundai and it resolved with the service advisor agreeing with me but Hyundai corporate says there's nothing they can do.
Common issue that's been reported. Clearly a design flaw -- not manufucturer part defect. My guess is this is akso related to ICCU issue for Ioniq 5. I bet Munro teardown will reveal bad design. I have no doubt there will be a class-action suit on this. PS: dealers are scum. The car is wonderful, shame they failed on this.
Wow, that's class-action lawsuit territory. You do most of your EV charging at home. That undercuts the entire benefit of going electric. They need to replace them all and make it right.
@@PCsandEVs It's like a car heater messing up an electric wire due to poor engineering and instead of fixing the mistake, they remove your heater. lol, no.
I saw a post, don't recall where, that someone said they solved the problem by using some electrical contact cleaner spray on both the charging port contacts and the contacts in the charger.
When I installed my grizzley evse, i set the current to 32A because I didn't want to run 48A continuosly on my house wiriing. i've had no problems so far after a year and a half by limiting it to 32A, and BTW, at 32A you get a little over 7 KWhs, and with a 77.4kwh battery, you can still charge overnight to a full battery charge. At the end of the day, you're still drawing the same amount of KWs from your house. I choose to not heat up my house wiring as much as possible, because that's more important to me.. However, I'm as upset as everyone else with this design flaw because that's not what we bargained for. And the attitude of Hyundai about this problem is despicable to say the least. I will never recommend to any of my friends to purchase any car from hyundai, kia or genisis.
How old is your charger handle? Hyundai attributes (blames) this on worn EVSE handles that don’t make a solid connection. My EV6, so far, knock on wood.
It’s kinda sad that they’re not gonna make it right. The AC port pins are supposed to be designed to handle 80 amps, but it’s not. I’ve built experimental mobile battery pack modules and they have 11 kW onboard chargers and never had an issue with overheating. If this issue is with a “particular” EV manufacturer, it be front page news on every news outlet around the world and NHTSA would’ve been on it like flies on excrement in a heartbeat.
Hi, fully agree with your comment. Having same issue with my Ioniq6 2023. Did you get any positive update from dealer or manufacturer recently? Or should we all join the lawsuits on this? Tks much
Im curious if charging at a ev station if the heat scanner shows if it gets that hot as well. I agree that this issue will be a problem if not addressed by the Hyundai group. Btw which esve are you using at home.
EV6 with the issue, replaced port, issue persists, TSB applied and now it throttles down to 7kW...ridiculous... 48A Juicebox. ICCU also failed, car has been out of service for 10 of my 13 mo of ownership... Sucks being an early adopter.
What’s the latest news on this. My GV60 starting doing this in May. I have a 48Amp charger and now I have to reduce the charge rate down to medium or slowest
Oh boy, so, I got the car back, with the TSB, and it exhibited similar behavior, then I’ve pushed for a full port replacement. They have done that, and I’m awaiting the call saying it’s fixed, I think it will be Thursday that I get my car back? They tested it with a DCFC after port replacement, the dummies.
@@PCsandEVs how did you manage to persuade them to do the full port replacement. Was the easy , and so you think I would need to go through the TSB step first ?
@@philhurren1169 where ish are you located in the USA? If In the northeast go to genesis of Fairfield, but I have video of it erroring the charge out multiple times, and even FLIR data of the port overheating.
Just a heads up. My service mgr told me (a few months back) that they found the issue and it had to do with resistance reading between two wires that was the problem. They replaced the charge assembly, problem solved... then came back. What's obviously happening is that it takes some time for the cable to degrade and then heat up. Resistance causes heat. Heat is probably breaking down the cable, causing resistance which then causes more heat. They probably aren't going to fix this because most people don't charge at that rate, and those who do probably don't look too close at the details (so the TSB they put out a few weeks ago to reduce the charge rate will appease many of those people who are having issues). That leaves the rest of us who really know what's going on ... and I suspect we're the minority. Watch... they will likely not fix this. It's been well over two years for Ioniq, and over a year for GV60 and EV6. The "patch" they put out could be a temporary fix so that if the sensor (the snap disk that catches the overheat) fails, it won't burn the car/house up. Who knows... only time will tell.
I had this happen with my Ioniq 5 if I charged at 40-48amps. Only solution I found was to drop charging down to 32amps. This was all last summer. I ended up selling the car and switching to a Model Y.
@@PCsandEVs I tried reaching out to a lot of the big EV RUclips channels and websites last summer about this issue because it was not long after the cars launched and I heard no reports about it besides a few other forum members back then. None of the channels or sites I contacted with very detailed information ever responded to me.
I experienced the same thing and also switched to a MY. What’s worse is that some eGMP drivers are reporting an issue with the ICCU where the car can’t charge at all; these drivers are reporting waits of up to three months for a replacement part.
![Six Hundred Strike [EPIC: The Musical] Full Animatic](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zov6NXIAuow/mqdefault.jpg)
Google this: “j1772 overheating”. Some threads are 10 years old discussing various issues with resistance causing J1772 ports to overheat.
Pretty disappointing, I've been noticing problems for several months, I thought it was my EVSE that was going bad so I bought another one and this one was crapping out also so I connected the dots finally definitely the car after I measured 239° 😮
I’m hoping if we get enough eyes on the issue they will recall the vehicles to fix them
1 year later and two recall updates on the car later mine is still overheating this summer! I'm done! Trading it in on a 2024 M3P
I got mine bought back under lemon law, and have a 2023 m3LR
@@PCsandEVs unfortunately I didn't I paid 54k for my lemon and only got 30K for it on trade-in.
2022 Kia EV6 RWD Wind owner here. I try to charge at home at 40 Amps (approx. 9.0-9.4kW). My charge was interrupting at "Maximum AC Charge" setting on the vehicle, 40Amps output on the EVSE, usually after about 30-120 minutes of charging like this. I was able to prevent this issue from occurring by switching to "minimum AC Charge" setting on the vehicle, which amounted to about 5.6kW charging power being drawn from the EVSE. This started happening about 1-2 months after I got the car, and before I had even hit the 5,000 mile mark. I had TSB ELE283 applied to my car in early March, 2023, and since then my Level 2 charging sessions no longer cut off and get interrupted by the temperature detected at the charging port. Instead, what happens is that on the "Maximum AC Charge" setting on the vehicle, I get the full 40 Amps from my EVSE (about 9.0-9.4kW) for usually up to 2 hours, and then it throttles down. I have tracked this and found that, over what is usually a 7 hour charging session (cheapest electricity rates), my average power drawn is about 5.7-6.5 kW. Meaning I'm starting at ~9kW for 1-2 hours, and then it drops down to a level more in line with or slightly less than I'd have with just straight "minimum AC Charging" as my setting, and overall it's a rate of about 6 kW. This is a livable scenario for me, but I agree it's not okay that the car can't take 11 kW, as advertised, especially when it seems like no other EV platform outside of the EGMP cars seems to experience this issue when L2 charging.
Yeah, what a mess
What’s the build date on your EV6?
My EV6 does this. The TSB doesn’t even throttle my charging, it still interrupts the charging and doesn’t chargers at all. ELE-283 is what I had installed at a dealership. 48amp charging does not work.
That is frustrating as hell! Thank you for your input, make sure to add it to the form!
Submitted a reply
I went through this with my Ioniq 5. The Hyundai Dealers all have 30A chargers. Ultimately they said there's no issue because they can't replicate the issue at the dealer. I had a case open with Hyundai and it resolved with the service advisor agreeing with me but Hyundai corporate says there's nothing they can do.
Common issue that's been reported. Clearly a design flaw -- not manufucturer part defect. My guess is this is akso related to ICCU issue for Ioniq 5. I bet Munro teardown will reveal bad design. I have no doubt there will be a class-action suit on this.
PS: dealers are scum. The car is wonderful, shame they failed on this.
I wonder if they just used the same port they had on Niro and Kona, and just upgraded the inverter
AND I WILL BUY A FULLY LOADED 2023 OUTLANDER PHEV ANYWAY!
Experiencing this with my GV60 for a few weeks. Going to the dealer tomorrow, we will see.
I have an update, probably coming tomorrow on what happened with mine
Wow, that's class-action lawsuit territory. You do most of your EV charging at home. That undercuts the entire benefit of going electric. They need to replace them all and make it right.
Yeah it’s really not good
@@PCsandEVs It's like a car heater messing up an electric wire due to poor engineering and instead of fixing the mistake, they remove your heater. lol, no.
I saw a post, don't recall where, that someone said they solved the problem by using some electrical contact cleaner spray on both the charging port contacts and the contacts in the charger.
I really do believe it’s poor contact causing resistance (heat).
When I installed my grizzley evse, i set the current to 32A because I didn't want to run 48A continuosly on my house wiriing. i've had no problems so far after a year and a half by limiting it to 32A, and BTW, at 32A you get a little over 7 KWhs, and with a 77.4kwh battery, you can still charge overnight to a full battery charge. At the end of the day, you're still drawing the same amount of KWs from your house.
I choose to not heat up my house wiring as much as possible, because that's more important to me..
However, I'm as upset as everyone else with this design flaw because that's not what we bargained for. And the attitude of Hyundai about this problem is despicable to say the least. I will never recommend to any of my friends to purchase any car from hyundai, kia or genisis.
I’m getting there myself tbh, very annoyed
I use a 40 amp Autel EVSE for my GV60. I consistently charge at 9.1 kWH. I haven't experienced any issues, but I'll look out for it.
Thanks!
How old is your charger handle? Hyundai attributes (blames) this on worn EVSE handles that don’t make a solid connection. My EV6, so far, knock on wood.
@@JohnCap523 less than 2 years.
@@PCsandEVs Your car is less than a year old…document service visits and consider lemon law if it isn’t resolved.
It’s the plan, sadly
I have a GV60 performance.... start to look into the rear drive shaft issues. That is the next problem to look at.
Yeah, they at least have an open recall for that.
It’s kinda sad that they’re not gonna make it right. The AC port pins are supposed to be designed to handle 80 amps, but it’s not. I’ve built experimental mobile battery pack modules and they have 11 kW onboard chargers and never had an issue with overheating.
If this issue is with a “particular” EV manufacturer, it be front page news on every news outlet around the world and NHTSA would’ve been on it like flies on excrement in a heartbeat.
Hi, fully agree with your comment. Having same issue with my Ioniq6 2023. Did you get any positive update from dealer or manufacturer recently? Or should we all join the lawsuits on this?
Tks much
Im curious if charging at a ev station if the heat scanner shows if it gets that hot as well. I agree that this issue will be a problem if not addressed by the Hyundai group. Btw which esve are you using at home.
I personally use the chargepoint home flex!
EV6 with the issue, replaced port, issue persists, TSB applied and now it throttles down to 7kW...ridiculous... 48A Juicebox. ICCU also failed, car has been out of service for 10 of my 13 mo of ownership... Sucks being an early adopter.
Are you in the USA or not? I’d be lemon lawing that car immediately
I’m not seeing the follow up you mentioned. Did this problem get resolved?
I was advised by lawyers not to comment further during my lemon law proceedings
What’s the latest news on this. My GV60 starting doing this in May. I have a 48Amp charger and now I have to reduce the charge rate down to medium or slowest
Oh boy, so, I got the car back, with the TSB, and it exhibited similar behavior, then I’ve pushed for a full port replacement. They have done that, and I’m awaiting the call saying it’s fixed, I think it will be Thursday that I get my car back? They tested it with a DCFC after port replacement, the dummies.
Meanwhile I’ve been driving a gv70 electrified loaner, for almost 5k miles now
@@PCsandEVs at least they gave you an EV as loaner. what’s the gv70 like then ?
@@PCsandEVs how did you manage to persuade them to do the full port replacement. Was the easy , and so you think I would need to go through the TSB step first ?
@@philhurren1169 where ish are you located in the USA? If In the northeast go to genesis of Fairfield, but I have video of it erroring the charge out multiple times, and even FLIR data of the port overheating.
I told my dealer and they fixed the problem through software update
Just a heads up. My service mgr told me (a few months back) that they found the issue and it had to do with resistance reading between two wires that was the problem. They replaced the charge assembly, problem solved... then came back. What's obviously happening is that it takes some time for the cable to degrade and then heat up. Resistance causes heat. Heat is probably breaking down the cable, causing resistance which then causes more heat. They probably aren't going to fix this because most people don't charge at that rate, and those who do probably don't look too close at the details (so the TSB they put out a few weeks ago to reduce the charge rate will appease many of those people who are having issues). That leaves the rest of us who really know what's going on ... and I suspect we're the minority. Watch... they will likely not fix this. It's been well over two years for Ioniq, and over a year for GV60 and EV6. The "patch" they put out could be a temporary fix so that if the sensor (the snap disk that catches the overheat) fails, it won't burn the car/house up. Who knows... only time will tell.
I got my charge port replaced, just need to find time to record my experiences
Hi , just checking if your problem was fixed after you had the port changed?
Tks
Nope
I had this happen with my Ioniq 5 if I charged at 40-48amps. Only solution I found was to drop charging down to 32amps. This was all last summer. I ended up selling the car and switching to a Model Y.
That’s rough, and Hyundai Motor Group will definitely lose customers because of this issue!
@@PCsandEVs I tried reaching out to a lot of the big EV RUclips channels and websites last summer about this issue because it was not long after the cars launched and I heard no reports about it besides a few other forum members back then. None of the channels or sites I contacted with very detailed information ever responded to me.
Yeah that’s trash, if you have any issues or anything, you can reach out to the email on my RUclips profile whenever!
I’m sorry that they basically hid the issue because it is a popular car
I experienced the same thing and also switched to a MY. What’s worse is that some eGMP drivers are reporting an issue with the ICCU where the car can’t charge at all; these drivers are reporting waits of up to three months for a replacement part.