How To Install and Set Up Roller Lifters, Roller Rockers, and Pushrods
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- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
- This video covers the installation of roller lifters, roller rockers, and pushrods. It also covers how to align the rocker arms and set up pushrod guide plates. This work was done on a small block Chevy, but the principals apply to other engines getting these parts.
This video is an excerpt from a longer video where I build a 383 stroker for my 1990 C1500 pick up, #ETCGDadsTruck.
• 383 Stroker Top End As...
Camera: Brian Kast, Eric Cook
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Parts
Cam Custom Grind 12-000-8: www.compcams.c...
Timing Chain Set: www.compcams.c...
Pushrods: www.compcams.c...
Rocker Arms: www.compcams.c...
Lifters: www.compcams.c...
Cam Button: www.compcams.c...
Cylinder Heads: www.summitraci...
Head Bolts: www.summitraci...
Head Gasket: www.summitraci...
Engine Gasket Kit: www.summitraci...
Tools
Crank Socket: www.summitraci...
Cam Degree Kit: www.summitraci...
Gasket Adhesive: www.amazon.com...
Trusty Cook Hammers: trustycook.com
Torque Wrench: www.jbtools.co...
T-Handle wrenches: www.powerbuilt...
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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy®.
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Honestly I thank you, I can repeat step by step by just watching what you did and explained one time. This video helped me loose the fear that I could never do this but now that I know what goes on I can feel that this is easy or rather could be easy at least for me. You boost my confidence to possibly one day pursue the mechanic life so thank you for sharing not many mechanics share this idk why but you are a good man.
ERIC Watched a few of your vids and liked them. You are a knowledgeable mechanic. I should know. Me too for 50+ years. I was surprised to see your mistake when adjusting valves. Your method for adjusting the exhaust valve is spot on BUT if you stop turning the engine at the exact point when the exhaust valve starts moving, the intake valve lifter is NOT on the base circle of the cam. Cams have valve overlap and the intake is not fully closed at that point. When I adjust valves using this method I continue turning until the exhaust valve has fully opened and is on its way closed again. Then the intake is certainly on the base circle. This might account for a little bit loose adjustment and some valve noise. I always use ½ turn adjustment and have no problems.
I have something that I would like to share, first off I would like to thank Eric the car guy so much for everything that I have refreshed myself on and have learned a new. I’m an old man and I used to rebuild a little bit and have worked quite a bit on small block 350 in the past..
I am currently putting a 383 stroker engine from hot rod engines company out in Washington into my 1963 Chevy C 10 pick up with a manual Tremec five speed.
In the meanwhile I have been working on the current engine which is in this old truck of mine. It is also a 383 stroker but is currently a four-speed manual transmission. 373 rear which means that the RPM is crazy on highway so that’s why the next transmission is a five speed having the overdrive advantage over the 373 rear ..
So to my point I am starting to put things together to do this very same job you were watching here. There is nothing at all wrong with how it is being done here but I think I’d like to share something that I saw online which provided a very easy valve adjustment which I thought was genius.
I could look up the video if anybody is interested on how to adjust the valves in the following manner.
Anyway the guy that I was watching on RUclips explained that he would often be called away from the valve adjustment and forget where he was in the process and would often start over or forget where he was because of being called to the counter or whatever. The gentleman went on to explain that he had to find a way to keep his spot or area of work remembered so he offered up this method of adjusting valves as follows:
Basically you rotate the engine 90° at a time using the marks on the harmonic balance her and the timing tab. Basically he could be called away from the job and it didn’t matter where he was in the adjustments he would simply continue to turn the engine 90° at a time and establish zero lash that way. He would keep turning the engine 90° and some lifter would become loose and others would maintain a zero lash adjustment. So basically you just keep turning the engine 90° at a time, Using the timing marks until all pushrods are found to have zero lash…
So this did not make sense to me until I thought further that mathematically every time you adjust across-the-board all pushrods eventually mathematically all will be in the correct position and turning them down a little bit at a time at 90° just creeps up on the math whereby he would have zero lash across-the-board…
Again there is absolutely nothing wrong with what Mr. Eric is doing, he is a very accomplished mechanic and he is following instruction as noted in manuals. I just found this guy on RUclips who evidently through necessity had to find a better way and I thought it was genius and I guess it does work out that mathematically you would pass each one eventually. Eric the car guy rocks and I follow him I wouldn’t ever say that he is wrong on “anything” He’s 3 times my abilities as a mechanic, knowing this from following you Sir! Thanks for “all that you provide me and others!
Michael T.
Just read the Sept newsletter. I really liked the repair videos over the years because you are a good teacher. While I skip some off the project car videos, I still watch most just like this one because I can still learn from you. Your videos gave me the courage to pull an engine and tear it down...back yard mechanic style, then rebuild it. I'm a fan that will continue to follow you through project, FIF or any other video...because you are above all a good teacher and video maker. Hats off to you.
You actually want to take the intake valve all the way down before doing the exhaust because of overlap on the cam. If you adjust the exhaust when the intake just starts to move down, the exhaust is not on the base..
ThankYou very much. I live in Germany and therefore I don't have the experienceas You guys in the States. This video will greatly help to install the roller rockers on the speedmaster heads for my 460 BBF.
People are too wrapped around the "ooh it's just a clip of an older video boo downvote!"
What if i was building an engine and was installing lifters and pushrods.. It would be very convenient to just open this video and go straight to the point instead of watching an hour long video to get to the "good part".. Eric is doing us a favor by chopping the video in key points.
It's really great when people 'get' it. Thanks for the comment.
It shouldnt be a friday video. As extras it makes sence but not as a friday video man.....i saw it last week cause im one of the people that watches them all the way through.
I agree about the full turn. Well, I'm a 3/4 turn guy. But yeah, 1/2 turn is never enough. I guess the manufacturers don't want em' over tightened and a half turn in theory should be enough. But I've found the same thing you did....after a while I gotta put my open valve covers on and run the motor finding all of the rockers making noise and adjust them again. And sometimes do it again after more driving to get em' all set. never had a problem going 3/4 turn right off the bat. In the old days -and even now- (for me anyway) we always kept a set of old valve covers w/ tops cut out and adjusted the rocker while the engine was running. Another good post from post this guy. I've never heard him say anything wrong. His tutorials are clear and concise. learned a lot from this channel. Been a subscriber here for some time now. I prefer to do both valves on each cylinder at the same time on the firing stroke. I think it saves time. But his way gets the job done just as good and keeps u from making any mistakes.
It's Eric I've been watching you for years and I'm very proud to say the same as the last poster I was able to conquer the fear of adjusting the push rides when reassembling into The Leftovers going and taking care of the engine is one of my most stress now thanks to you thank you brother
Great video, Eric!
Instablaster.
I really enjoy your videos... clear, concise and you clearly know what you're doing... great personality on camera, keeping it light yet professional. Keep it up!
you are 100% right about shaft mounted rockers! way easier but way more expensive.
Dear hateful people: Just let the video play in the background and don't worry about what day it is. Support the guy and let it be. YT channels are forever evolving.
Dear trey....well in the end you are right. Lol
Thanks for no loud music as you work some other guys music be so loud that I can't focus on the video
It's like watching Bob Ross paint!
Hi Eric tcg! I agree with you that 1/2 turn after zero lash is not enough. Lots of performance engine builds are going with 3/4 turn after zero lash. Thanks Eric, love and appreciate your videos and have learned a lot along the way. Happy upcoming 2021 Holidays to you and yours. Cheers from Motown.
Thankyou Eric. Something so simple as installing roller rockers can be a real headache when you don't know how to adjust them.
I was actually really impressed with this production. It's been a long time since I've watched something other than an ETCG1 video. This was great!
I like this new format of content
These daily bite-size videos are awesome!!
Great video. Recently took the engine too high on rpm and found a bent push rod. Couldn't get a wrench to the rocker arm nut. And when you couldn't either, I followed your method of taking rocker off. Too simple. Also - my service manual says one full turn for lash. Thanks.
Thanks Eric always the best I'm redoing my 4L ranger ohv all valve train new heads and all so I'm gonna save this vid...keep it up bro love all your videos
Thanks so much Eric for the info. I plan on doing this to my 350 but was afraid it was more complicated. Thanks again
A tip for you Eric. Bottom half of the rocker studs are both the same thread diameter and pitch for those 7/16 and 3/8 rocker studs. It's just the upper half that is thicker.
Good to know, thanks. However, on my previous cylinder heads, my machinist had to enlarge the threaded holes to accept the 3/8" stud. Perhaps it's not the same for all rocker studs. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy you're welcome Eric every cylinder head that I have worked on that has been Chevy oh, I must stress that fact I am a Chevy lover, has been the stud in the head has been opened up 2 7/16, what's the rocker stud itself was 3/8.
By far the best video on this topic, thank you Eric 👍
I like your new thumbnails Eric...great job!
Yes, snug is a torque spec that has served me well over the years.
Funny how some lifter manufacturers recommend an oil soak while others say to absolutely not soak them. If the lifter absorbs too much oil in it's chamber, it will be locked up at startup before it can bleed down. Better to let them rattle and pump up naturally then set your tolerances. Apparently less chance of overstressing a rocker, bending a pushrod of damaging the lifter. I see the argument on both sides.
But, sometimes, they never pump up unless primed... Been there, done that shit. Regardless, i soak the fuckers. Live in pressurized oil, why the hell not soak em.
There is one way to do this that I would definitely recommend. It's a lengthy process to describe but can be done fairly quickly and you will never need to re work your rocker pre load
Post it. Or post a link to the process.
Thanks, and keep up the good work brother!
You mentioned that the roller tappets have rollers to reduce friction, you may want to put in a note that the rollers allow for faster ramps. There is not much friction on flat tappet cams, the cam and the tappet have a film of oil between them. The usable power increase comes from a more aggressive ramp that you can get away with a roller allowing you to snap the valve open and closed quicker, allowing you to have a greater duration with the same base circle. This does require a much greater spring pressure though, if you want to avoid that annoying little thing called valve float...
I am going with a solid flat tappet with my mopar LA360 build, even though the block was a 1991 block and made to run hydraulic rollers. I am going this route though because I expect to see north of 6000 though with my gearing and tire size. Remember guys, pick your parts according to your use, and start with your cam choice and build from there, and don't cheap out on your torque converter!
This was more of a install video than a technical video. Roller lifters does offer better cam performance than any flat tappet can offer but he's just showing the "how to" part of it all.
@Dennis Massengill I don't trust them either. I especially do not trust roller tip rockers, I'll stick with my bushed shaft mount ductile iron rockers.
Thanks for the video. I like the excerpt stuff. So I don't have to search whole thing tofind it. Thanks for posting several of them :)
there are faster ways to adj. rockers but for a pro showing a novice how to do it, good job.
Exactly, thank you.
I haven't upgraded my rocker arms yet, and I get a valve clatter sound when pulling a hill. So, with what you said, I might need to go back through and go a little more on my pre load.
Starting job as vehicle technician tomorrow
I was a security guard, a builder, bathroom fitter, now a mechanic, with degree in business
I should fit right in lol
The argument about steel vs aluminium rockers is only relevant in extreme high horsepower applications with outrageous amounts of lift and valve seat pressure, for a cam with .500 to .600 lift the alloy ones are easily as good as the heavier duty units. I run a .525 lift Lunati with scorpion alloy rockers and they are excellent value for money.
Excellent, thanks Eric
Thank you for this information packet video Eric! well done.
5:03 "They were a little stiff going in at first." Thats what she said. lol
But did you hear the sucking sound when he pulled one out?
I miss the fixing it forward videos
Thank you for passing the on knowledge man !!
I wish you would have covered the hydraulic lifter, preload, and demonstrate how after you do the lash that you can still push the rocker down because of the plunger inside of the lifter, I have some lifters that don’t spring back and others that do, I was hoping you would have talked about that. I’m afraid I’m gonna have to get new lifters
How did you know how long the push rods should be?
Alan, I am sure he did a mock up using the adjustable mock up pushrod tool before knowing his exact length to order.
stil love watching your videos
I guess no new content this week. Looking forward to what’s coming up next week!
Was guessing that at the 2nd video.
Been following for a while Eric. Thanks again for a really good and educational video.
Thanks Eric really educational in ready to move forward on my build
Interesting amd informative. Taking on projects way over my head but cant stop thinking bout desire to drag race and may mean learning something bout building motors!😂😎
By the time this truck is completed the title will have to pass two generations of family.
The truck was completed in June 2019. The video releases are behind that due to the time it takes to edit the footage.
Nice informative video Eric
I like the new title
Excuse me!! But I didn't get a pushrod! Thank you very much, LOL. Bad ass motor, by the way.
Like the content and quality of this video !
Perfect vid
Did you ever end up welding the pushrod guides? I mean I don't know how much lateral stress is on them.
Hey Eric! Nice video!👍
That’s amazing thank you for the educational videos!
Good easy to understand video, thank you!
The reason you had noisy valve train with half a turn is because the lifters were full of oil this comes straight from Comp Cams, "it is not necessary to “pre-pump” hydraulic lifters full of engine oil prior to installation and valve
adjustment. It is actually undesirable to do so as the “pumped up” lifters will cause the valves
to open during the adjustment process, rather than positioning the lifter plunger in its operating
position as it is supposed to do"
You have a OE roller block, Why the extra cost of aftermarket non-roller lifter blocks?
I would use 1 piece guide plates. I wonder if 1970 Z28 LT1 guide plates would fit this head. I also do not spin the pushrod, instead I use the up/down method. I use the EOIC method as well.
Isn't soaking roller lifters in oil bad as in it fills them and creates resistance on first start. Al from Skid Factory goes over it in their latest video. it can even potentially bend rods.
Or wait are they even hydraulic I'm might be wasting your time if so my bad.
According to the manufacturers instructions, Comp Cams, soaking the lifters and rocker arms for up to 2 hours before installation is what is called for. There is no more resistance at start up that would be any different than if the lifters were already in the engine. They are designed to be filled with oil to operate properly. Thanks for your comment.
Super interesting! Thank you🦾
Eric, I just watched a video where the person using Edelbrock valve train parts said Edelbrock says to dip the roller lifter in clean oil not soak them. Is this unique to Edlebrock. Thank you
for zero lash, do you tighten the pushrod until you cannot spin it anymore with all your strength or just slight resistance??
Just take out the slop up and down. The pushrod will still spin at zero lash.
Hopefully one day my 93 estate wagon becomes a full roller 383
Pro job Eric!
GM recommends a full turn and bring no 1 cylinder to top dead center and adjust 8 valves then turn it over 180 and adjust the last 8 I don't remember the witch valves off-hand and for performance builds i prefer half a turn and if you adjust both valves on any cylinder at top dead center you will be on the base circle
Doesnt matter, 1 at time or 8 at a time, as long as its on the base circle. Every fucking armchair warrior thinks they have to follow some 199 steps to ensure a good engine.. Base circle, both valves closed, rotate a few times and check again.. thats it!
@@zuestoots5176 I'm no armchair warrior I'm a mechanic and have adjusted valves countless times many different ways i prefer one cylinder at a time its faster on my street strip car i had speed pro anti pump lifters where i had to adjust them like solid lifters 2 thousands on the feeler gauge they were noisy but you didn't have to worry having them pump at high RPM
Solid lifters tick like crazy if not done correctly
Thanks for the explanation!!
Is it the same procedure for a flat tappet cam with hydraulic lifters combo and the same roller rockers as in the video?
That really was a great video.
Your the best bud
At 12:25 into the video, what exactly were you using it torque wrench on there?
I just bought a 2008 gmc truck with a 5.3 with 156,000 miles. It sounds like a sewing machine under the hood. The previous owner said that he had the lifters change about two years ago and the engine had about 120,000 on it.
Is there a chance that i need to get in there and re-torque the rockers in order to get the sewing machine sound out of my motor? And can these valves be adjusted like this at anytime in this motors life? Thanks for any help with this.
Good video thanks 💪🏼
Are the lifter keepers supposed to fit loose or be tight
In your opinion can I add roller lifters and rockers to a first generation 350
would not turning full turn cause backfire?dealing with that right now
With spinning is it until there is substantial resistance or you literally can’t spin it with ur finger tips at all?
Could I switch from my 1.5 rockers to a 1.6 and a gen 1 sbc would I have any problems it has the comp cam xe274 in my engine
I actually appreciate the long videos. This is an older clip, waiting for next week!
By the way Eric, at the beginning of every video, can you say "Greetings viewers, Eric the car guy here!". You use to say "Greetings viewers, Eric the car guy!".
Well we already know he's there, we can see him :p
John Smith i know its just the introduction. Lol
Great Video. Thanks
I have a 92 chevy with a new 350 crate motor and I primed the oil system and i am getting oil on my driver side lifters but no oil on my passenger side lifters. What is the problem?
The GM service manual says to lift the rocker only until zero lash because the lifter has a weak spring in it and spinning is subjective to feel, like feeler blades. They also ask for 3/4 turn to place the piston inside the lifter body at proper height. The tread pitch can be used to create the correct math as 18 threads per inch = 1 inch in 18 turns. The lifter body only has so much room and 3/4 turn is less than 1/18" on the lifters piston. Not much room in there unless a guy wants to disassemble, measure and decide how much travel the lifter body's piston should travel compared to GM engineers although Comp could machine these different. But until I measure both, I am using GM specs, plus not spinning a round ball tube for feel.
Nice video. Do you have to used loctite on the rocker set screw or recheck after so many miles thanks
does the lifter lash adjustment method apply to stock rockers and stock hydro lifters?
i thing with 3|8 -24 rockerstunts neet 270 deegre preload a 7|16 -20 rockerstunds net he half turn . but is imprtant wich lifter manufaktor you use rowe ohnly net 1|4 turn .
get your self a pair of tongs and bring the container closer to the motor that will help with the oil mess
LOL, I thought the same thing Zelos!
Good Eric
Thanks mate❤️
So you just went down the line starting at cylinder 1, and didn't go through the firing order?
Would this procedure work on an inline 6 engine
Sweet.
Thanks👍👍👍
thanks
I'm suprised you didn't pin the rocker studs as well.
Does it matter if it’s roller or flat tappet
I’ve already seen all this.
So what? It's excerpt from the the long video. READ the description.
@@AP9311 dude you dont have to read the description to know whats going on. Its just disappointing to wait a week for the next phase of the build and we get a clip from last week we've seen already. I got it when they were extra videos through out the week but not a friday video.....
I was expecting a new video today..this should off been put up mid week ..not on a friday...jesus eric come on.....
I’ve seen creators make the smaller videos and THEN make a longer version but not backwards. I really look forward to his Friday videos and was disappointed to see some regurgitated, repackaged, information. I guess Eric is damned if he does and damned if he doesn’t. Love you Eric! You’re awesome!
@@haleysdad2004 i felt the same but the solution is to sprinkle the smaller versions as extras and leave fridays for the new content.
Great
This is an ASMR
this is the Friday video? A clip out of last Fridays video?!?!
Please read the description.
@@ericthecarguy hi Mr Eric can you tell me please how does pistons move in cylinder does pistons move in rotational movement in cylinder well waiting for your humble reply thanks indeed
I get what you're doing with these and it is a good idea to break these down into smaller instructional type videos but they should be extras NOT a friday video. Its disappointing to wait a week anticipating the next phase of the build and we get a clip from last weeks video we've already seen.
Friday should always be new...not repeats...
@@hugmedeb i agree