Basic Rifle Reloading Part 4: Powder Charging
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- Full Story: bit.ly/3l4uc0s
UR on RUMBLE: rumble.com/ultimatereloader
UR T-Shirts: bit.ly/2UEAkgW
UR on Patreon: / ultimatereloader
To this point we’ve cleaned, resized, trimmed, and primed our rifle brass. Now it’s time to charge it with smokeless powder!
-------------------------------------------
Ultimate Reloader LLC / gavintoobe Disclaimer:
You alone are responsible for the safety of yourself and your property.
Check local and state laws before undertaking any activity involving possessing, transporting, and shooting firearms. Check local and state laws before attempting to load ammunition or perform any modifications to a firearm. Always abide by the law. Always practice gun safety.
The content on this channel (including videos, ammunition reloading data, technical data, comments, and any other information contained within) is for demonstration purposes only.
Do not attempt any of the processes or procedures shown or described in this video or on this RUclips channel (gavintoobe).
Any reloading data supplied on this RUclips channel (gavintoobe) or in this video, including any comments from viewers and readers must be assumed to be in error.
Always consult at least three sources of manufacturer's ammunition reloading data before reloading your own ammunition.
Do not attempt to repair or modify any firearms based on information found on this RUclips channel or in this video.
Gunsmithing procedures should only be performed only by a licensed gunsmith.
Ultimate Reloader, LLC can not be held liable for any harm caused to any individual or any personal property related to activities, procedures, techniques, or practices described in whole or part on this RUclips channel (gavintoobe) or in this video.
By watching this video in whole or in part, you agree that you alone are solely responsible for your own safety and property as it pertains to activities, procedures, techniques, or practices described in whole or part on this RUclips channel (gavintoobe) or in this video.
-------------------------------------------
Ultimate Reloader LLC / gavintoobe Material Connection Notice:
The following Ultimate Reloader partners are featured in this video:
- Lyman Products
- Hodgdon Powder
Ultimate Reloader partnerships involve one or more of the following:
Product supplied for evaluation + testing + features in videos/articles, paid advertising and promotions, engineering and product development services, scientific testing and evaluation, external media production and related marketing services.
Ultimate Reloader LLC is committed to publishing subjective and data-driven information+insights related to products whether it be favorable or unfavorable or both.
For more information about Ultimate Reloader partnerships, please visit: ultimatereloader.com/about
Guy, you are a great instructor! This series is fantastic. A lot of people have the misconception that digital scales are more accurate than beam scales (dollar for dollar) and it isn't the truth. I still use beams and my RCBS M1000 is highly repeatable. It takes me back to a time when I first started reloading. They require no batteries or calibration. Gravity is the same, the last time I checked. My beam scale, a Harrell's powder thrower, and a good trickler all give me match-grade repeatability. Down below a 1/10th of a grain. And you can never have too many reloading manuals. They are all good to have. God bless!
Thank you Guy(s) for putting these together. I'm a few months into learning reloading, and your videos are a great help!
Suggestion; get a set of Lee Loader scoops. Choose the one that gets a few hairs under your charge, put that on your charge balance, use a trickler to put the last few granules of powder to bring it up to the powder charge, set to pour it into the case.
Nicely done. I’m glad you mentioned that at your re-load bench, you have your scale at *eye* level to ensure no parallax error in reading the scale. I just finished making a … custom… stand where my scale sits. It’s as close to perfect compared to the stand I had used for years. No more moving up/down to get a straight look at it. Ya, this may be all basic stuff, but you only need to use the wrong powder once, or overcharge once to ruin your gun, and/or your own health to realize slow & steady ensures excellent reloads you never have to worry about. 20 years of reloading, no squibs, no misfires, no heavy recoil/ hard bolt lift. It takes me more time than maybe others, but I’m satisfied with my methods. Thanks again . 👍😎
I load a decent amount of 38 special, and I've always had good luck with Titegroup, but oh man, 3 or 4 grains of Titegroup in a 38 special casing will make you pay attention! I always make it a point to go back with a flashlight and really inspect all of my charged cases before seating a projectile.
Yes! Good call. Way to easy to double charge a pistol case with light charges of fast burning powder. Stay on top of it.
It's reassuring to see that the system I have developed for myself almost mirrors this. Using a RCBS Uniflow 3 powder measure and 505 scale. I throw a tad shy and trickle up to zero. Once you get a feel for it you can move along at a productive pace. Thank you for informative, quality instruction!
Guy is a good teacher and seems patient as he goes over the basics. Gavin also has a good delivery (didn’t want to leave him out). I was able to secure a “going out of business” type of opportunity and got all the fancy stuff from someone getting out of shooting due to a terminal illness. They were instrumental in teaching me the ins and outs of reloading. Now I’m on my own and going back to the basics to really dial in my process. I’m currently using my powder throw with trickler before I start using the AutoTrickler scale again. Same with brass prep…using a hand trimmer and hand tools before going back to Henderson. It has reminded me that speed doesn’t always result in accuracy.
When you’re calibrating or zeroing your beam scale the tray dangling from the beam can be disassembled; the cup that makes up the bottom portion can be used to add minute amounts of weight or likewise decreased amounts of weight to get things perfectly zeroed.
This series is great opportunity to point out the plethora of information in the printed manuals. Little cartridge history and the step by step process, including the very thing your presenting.
I use the RCBS Competition Powder Charger to throw a slightly undersize charge and then trickle up with the Lyman smith Powder Trickler on a Texan Beam Scale. Then I use a Satern Powder Funnel to drop the charger in the case while sitting in a loading block. I like to immediately seat the bullet right then and there to negate any chances of double charging.
Excellent series. Good to see all the attention to safety. Especially checking charges. Super important for over and under charges at higher pressures. With 9mm I am a little less concerned with exact powder throws, but still super careful and work methodically. QC every 5-10 rounds. When using a progressive press especially, it is easy to forget where you're at in the process when there's an issue. Know where you are and what you are doing all the time.
This is the best reloading series I’ve seen. I’ve been using the scales for 48 years. And yes I use a powder charger. I’ve also used the ole bowl and spoon method. Lyman sales a scale check weight set. I have them, it’s nice to verify what your scale reads is accurate. If you’re going to be so anal retentive to make sure you get exactly 43.5 grains make sure you are actually measuring 43.5 grains.
I also want to point out put your powder back into the original container. Powder will absorb moisture from the air. You also risk contamination or mixing powders. Treat powder like it is a dangerous flammable substance that needs to be respected.
I started off using the Lee Saftey Powder scale, so I got used to beam scales right off the bat. I recently thought I'd try digital, so I got a Horandy G3 1500, after watching a lot of reviews suggesting they were pretty good. Maybe they are, but the one I got was not very consistent. In doing comparisons of the scales, I also pulled out my grandfather's old redding model 1 oil dampened scale to see how it compares. Holy Cow, that is an awesome scale! It's way less finicky than the Lee, and settles way faster. And it is way more consistent than the digital, and it's very sensitive. So, in the end, I'm glad I got a bum Hornady to get me to try out my grandfather's Redding, this is what I'm planning to use moving forward.
There's something to be said for sticking to a single brand. My bench looks like a handful of skittles.
Ha! Sometimes mine does as well. :)
In the absence of 2 blocks, I keep empty cases primer up. And I place the projectiles as soon as they charged case is set back down into the reloading block.
I love how accurate my beam can be.
Primer up on empty cases is a fantastic tip. Thanks
Currently I am loading 6.5 Grendal. I am using a RCBS power thrower and scale. I also check with an electronic scale which is a Frankford Arsenal.
I'll be reloading that cartridge eventually along with some other calibers. How's it been so far?
I also use a beam scale. My 7mm-08 loves Varget with 120gr projectiles.
Just starting out, so staying simple. Using Lee dippers weighing on a Frankfort digital scale to get close, then move to my RSCB beam, trickling the last on a Frankfort trickler. Love all y’all’s videos!
That dipper kit is worth more than the money you paid for it. Always keep it simple. Develop a system for doing the tightest repeatability, and place your bullet on the case mouth immediately before throwing another charge and you'll crank out safe, accurate handloads every time!
For test loads I use a dipper and trickler on a beam scale
I use an RCBS Uniflow 3 powder measure and M500 beam scale. I've tried a couple lower end (under $100) digital scales and repeatability and float were an issue. Glad you demonstrated using the beam scale. Most videos demonstrate using digital scales. I know there are good ones out there and the electronic powder dispensers are nice. But a simple beam scale gets the job done. It's always ready. No batteries, no warm up. Just level it and go.
I was using the RCBS powder hopper and mechanical scale when I first started loading my 338 Win Mag, but now loading pistol cartridges, I have moved to RCBS digtial makes it easier with the low grain weight for pistol loads.
Guy, I used a beam scale for over 40 years, then went electronic........a real time saver and very accurate
but I still have the beam on my bench ................... thanks for sharing
Yup, I use an electronic powder measure time to time, but there's almost always a beam scale on my bench.
I keep my Beam scale to occasionally check my digital. I got the digital because occasionally my beam scale would hang up during zeroing and with light loads.
Great video, thank you!
I have assembled my own ammunition since 1987. You properly mentioned how we may wish to powder charge our primed cases based on quantity and/or precision. When I started I used a powder drum type dispenser without a trickler. Then as technology emerged I rely on my RCBS electronic charge master Supreme for larger approved recipe runs. For test load charging (10 cartridges) I will use Lee scoops with a manual trickle charger. So how we prepare our powder charges depends on what our objective is. I also go to an extra powder charge verification by taring (zeroing) the primed case before powder charging, then weigh the charged case assemble afterward to confirm the charge. I am not a high volume (progressive press) loader. I have used a Lyman T-Mag turret press since I started assembling my ammunition. So this was and is my preferred method knowing I am sacrificing high volume production versus lower volume production so I feel safe firing my ammunition and is the best accuracy that I am capable of.
Good video. This would’ve helped me back when I was new to reloading. And for small batches or even on ball powders that get stuck to my electronic dispenser, I will pull out the beam scale to do the job.
Great video! Varget and 150 gr Sierra GameKings were the components of my first handloads I made. I shot a 3/4" group at 100 yards, and I have been hooked ever since.
I was competing in matches with my 308 when I found Varget. Oh my goodness! Such a leap in performance from my prior loads! That was rather a long time ago, I had all black hair then. :)
Basically a mirror image of your technique but using RCBS equipment.
Loading 7mag, .308, .270, .223, .44mag and .38
Enjoyed your video and explanations!
I installed a pistol rotary assembly in my Hornady powder dispenser for all charges, even rifle (suggested by Gunblue490). Tuned for two dumps, using the tube baffle, the charges are easily .2 gr. within the target charge, then quickly topped off with a tap on the Hornady vibratory trickler into a manual beam scale. Dumped into the brass with six seconds!
Good breakdown. I reckon every starter set should include a set of check weights.
I like the beam scale. No battery and no bull.
I use a Frankfort Arsenal hand primer system. I can adjust the depth. It is a heavy tool. I put grip tape on the tool so it doesn't slip in my hand. I have been using this tool for several years loading over one hundred thousand 9mm case plus thousands of rifle cases
9mm, HP-38, Lyman powder measure, RCBS mech. scale, F.A. trickler, Lee single stage press. Excellent video.
Rcbs beam scale, Lee perfect powder measure, throwing reloader 19, for 7mmremmag. I just picked up a trickled, I was using a tweezer to drop a powder stick or two to get the desired charge weight.
Someone get this guy a perm wig. He’s the Bob Ross of reloading!
LOL! :)
Love these tutorials! Keep up the great work!
Thank you for this series, I really appreciate it.
I'm having fun with a learning experience with working up a BP pressure smokeless load for my rolling block in 43Spanish. Currently working on figuring out the best very low weight filler to hold the rather low powder charge in the back of the case for proper ignition.
This series is great, thanks for the information , the presentation is very good.,
Thank you.
My hunting group uses 270, 308, 30-06 and 300 WM and I reload for all of us. I also reload 223, 30-30, 303 Brit, for target shooting. Looking at different loads from different references is a must. I usually compare my reloading manuals from the early 70's to todays information and come to a safe conclusion. One example is for my 300 WIN MAG, where my 1974 Speer manual states I can use IMR4895 to push 200gr bullets (56gr - 2602fps), but my Lee reloading manual only has info for IMR4895 up to 155gr bullets, then many websites state not to use this powder at all for this cartridge. Stay safe and Happy shooting.
So which manual is correct old or new? I think the newer ones lean towards cya.
I have to say this first, I'm a mechanic and I don't trust electronics. All of my measuring tools are mechanical for everything and I calibrate before using with standards. That being said I use the same thing just a different color. It's slow and frustrating but I trust it and it works. Maybe one day I'll have faith in the machine that makes it easier, probably around the same time I don't have to fix so many electrical problems with any equipment I work on. This is a tried and true way to do it that will not fault you if you calibrate.
I use a shell cut to the right length to get just under the desired weight instead of setting my powder measure. And like you I use a powder trickler to get to the exact weight
You are the Bob Ross of reloading great videos 👍
Great presentation as always. Thank you
Thanks. I have always used a RCBS 502 beam scale which at the time was $49.95 (expensive for me at the time) and just recently got a Frankford Arsenal Precision Digital scale (only). retired it (the 502) as a backup. I use Lee dipper set I got for about $8.00. Only recently, about a year ago bought a trickler and before that just used one of the smaller Lee dippers I pick the close one and then trickle. I load one round at a time to seating a bullet after seating primers, even for handgun so I'm not in a real hurry. I don't really shoot high volume so don't need any progressive or faster method. My press has always been a Lee C Press and my first was $15 at my cousin's gun shop, but I may upgrade. I like the Lyman Turret. Right now my priority is a chronograph
Just found you guys and enjoying the content. I've never used a trickier but I'm going to get one now. Being relatively new, I'm still very cautious about using the right amount of powder (which is always important no matter how long you've been reloading I guess) and like the trickle idea. Also as a newbie having only reloaded for a couple of years I use two separate trays. One for sized and primed cases on my left, then move them into a new tray on my right. That way I don't have to worry about grabbing a case twice and double loading it with powder. Always the same, repetition, consistent and creating a muscle memory. I also check with the light before setting the bullet but the left to right tray set up keeps me on point.
My setup is very similar to this using the Lyman products. My only recommendation would be to use 2 loading blocks, one for the primed, empty cases and the second for the charged cases. After charging the visual inspection is still a necessity.
Nice video Guy. I use a ChargeMasterLite from RCBS. I use it for .308, .270WSM, 5.56. My son uses it for his .30-06. I have even used it for some pistol, 9mm, .45acp. It works great and throws consistently accurate loads. I have checked them against my RCBS balance beam scale and they match.
Love hearing this guys voice. Especially a Sunday when I just woke up.
I used to use the Lee Perfect Measure until I got a FA Intellidropper. That's all I use now but once in awhile when it's only a few cases I would use a Lee dipper and scale to get them done easier and quicker.
Thanks for this reloading series it’s a big help for a beginner like me!
You're welcome! Sometimes we get into real minutia about handloading. Thought it was time to do a basic reloading series.
These are great. videos. watching with experienced reloaders that stated they also enjoyed and saving these all to favorite's.
Thank you for the videos.!! Have been amature reloading a couple rifle calibers for a decade but recently got a .17 Hornet where details really matter and your video series really helped clear up the mistakes I was making. Hope to see some more detailed stuff in the future. Would like to know more about annealing, reaming, and how to adjust COL to work best in your particular rifles chamber.
For what works for me to not over charge the case 2 times is I turn the case upside down . That way I know what case is charge and one that is not. It works for me. I turn them upside down after I put the primer in .
Unless they have changed, those two data sources use different types of brass. Sierra used Federal, Lyman used Remington. Federal is thicker and is of lower capacity, hence the lower charge range. New handloaders take note, don't mix brass.
Good point.
My 3rd edition Sierra manual used Remington for .308. My 5th Edition uses Federal. My Nosler 3rd Edition uses Winchester, but the 6th Edition uses Nosler brass. So it seems to be a mixed bag. Definitely watch maximums related to case differences.
Thanks Guy !!!
Another great addition to the series. Guy, you're doing great! I didn't notice anyone saying that you must hold the scale pan up against the powder measure spout when you drop a charge into the scale pan or powder kernels will bounce everywhere 🧐.
44.5 grains H Varget is an accurate load under 150 projectiles. I hope we get to see a group or two with velocities? I use an RCBS uniflow measure I bought back in the mid 90's and a 5-0-5 beam scale with manual trickler. Most of my 308 loads are IMR 4064, CFE223, the 4895's out there, all at 2.800" COL.
I've wasted so much powder by not labeling what was in my dispenser. I learned that lesson a while ago. Never risk it
Hi Guy, cheers from Australia. I have resumed reloading after several years and finding your series very useful. I noticed the Varget powder you had there has "Made in Australia" on the label. It would have been made by ADI (Australian Defence Industries). Most of their powder is prioritised to military ammunition manufacture so availability is often limited to the home loader here. Interesting to note that what you call Varget is known as AR2208 here. I currently use AR2206H for my .223 loads, which you would probably know as Hodgson 4895. We also have issues with primer availability currently. And when they are available they cost a fortune! I was quoted $200 for 1000 CCI 450 small rifle primers. That would be around $132 US. I'm not sure how that compares to you guys. As far as the equipment I use, I have a Hornady Classic Single Stage press, the Hornady powder dispenser, trickler and digital scales. All seem to work satisfactorily.
The availability of any powder is so limited here. In my local shops the only thing I can reasonably guarantee I’ll get at any stage is ADI powders. Had a bunch of Alliant loads I’d been relying on for years and I’ve had to rejigger them to an adi load..
Here's my horror story...., I paid $220 USD for 1,000 a year ago when nothing could be found. Cussed, cursed, and gave all kinds of hand insult gestures before clicking "submit payment".
I watch a Scott Tulloch's Hunting videos (High Country Hunter). He used AR 2209 (H4350 as far as I could find). we have primers trickling in and prices are easing just a little, but not much. At $189 /1000 I just let them sit on the shelf. I'm not paying that. Glad I bought a few thousand when they were $35/1000.
Another great video thank you for getting this together. I use Hodgdon H4350 for my 30.06 with Hornady Interlok bullets 150gr. Use Hornady Single stage Press kit I bought in 2010.
I've always used Lee products and they've worked fantastically for my needs. With two kids it can get very distracting at times and I always want to maintain safety, especially when dealing with the powder. I always place my brass upside down in the tray after priming. I only flip each case when it's time to fill it with powder. That way, if it's right side up and ready to receive a bullet, I'll assume it's been charged to prevent double charging. If there's one that's upright and I'm not 100% sure, I'll just dump it into the hopper. I'd rather take the few moments to recharge it than make a mistake.
Bulletr weight is important, selecting a powder that only does that weight or heavier, or that weight of lighter in a given cartridge can hamper powder usage, restricts bullet options. Check the whole range of bullet weights for a cartridge and see which powders can do what. Especially important if wanting to use a powder for multiple cartridges.
I use 2 loading blocks so you can never double charge a case . As soon as you fill a case you move it to the empty loading block filling it up as you fill cases .
I use a RCBS 505 scale and Franklin Arsenal powder trickler . Perfect for me since I load a box at a time . Really satisfying to work up a top notch load your rifle can turn into a dime size group at 100 yards.
I use the RCBS ChargeMaster Lite. It’s accurate to + or - 0.1 grains. With extruded powder, it will occasionally (maybe 20% of the time) overthrow by 0.1 or 0.2 grains - never underthrows. When that happens, I tap a kernel or two back into the hopper and weigh again.
For more precision, I set it to throw 0.1 grains light and trickle up a kernel at a time until the charge just hits the desired weight. I’m within 0.05 grains then.
For pistol cartridge loading in any quantity, I use the Hornady powder drop alone after I find the setting - but never for max charges. These are never extruded powders.
Great series! RCBS uniflow, trickler, funnel and Hornady digital scale. Depending on powder, the uniflow is pretty accurate. I dont max load plinking loads so I don't have to measure every one (check every 10th or so) but my precision loads I measure everyone out. I've done a few hundred rounds on single stage in a sitting lol Takes some time but I enjoy the process
Lyman seems to have some nice equipment
I follow the same process as you when I reload 223, 308 and 30.6. I always check and check. I am in no hurry to getter
done,
.
308 digital scales and a teaspoon right out the jug i use IMAR 4064 on a 45gr load 168 HPBT
I am not a specific brand kind of guy. I use it all. Whatever is affordable and available. Hornady, Frankford arsenal, lee, rcbs, Lyman, Dillon, it’s all good. Winchester, cci, Hodgdon, can’t be picky.
When I began to reload one of the things which was somewhat baffling to me was the enormous selections of powders available to any single cartridge and how should I choose which one to go with? Mind you, this was before the internet so all I had to go with was recommendations of the old reloaders which frequented the gun shops I went to at the time. One old timer suggested the following to me and it's served me well for decades: Choose a manual such as Lyman's and turn to the cartridge and bullet weight you intend to load for. Go down the STARTING CHARGE load column and select the top five powders which give the highest starting charge velocity for that bullet weight. Then begin your load development with your selected powder. This method has never failed me. Check weights are a good investment especially for those who choose digital scales but are a good double check on beam scales too. I have an old RCBS-Ohaus 1000 grain beam scale still in use and I verify zero every time I set up to reload. I use my Lyman check weights to verify the load I want to drop into the pan. Even beam scales can err over time and use. Reloading scales can be affected by drafts in the room so try not to set up your scale under a furnace duct or fan (yep, we are still in winter mode in Wyoming lol).
Guy is the best! Do more with him being the host!
Thank you!
Im loading 7mm rem mag. I have the powder, but the primers are allusive. I am .2 grains over max in the RCBS book and have a tack driver load. Thank you for these videos!!
Best of luck on the primers. They're still tough to get. BTW, the 7mm Rem Mag is a long time favorite of mine.
As always love the content but I need a recommendation. I use a Dillon 550 for all my pistol reloading, but I have an old RCBS Rock Chucker that I use for all my rifle loads. I’m on the fence between the 3 different turret presses- RCBS Turret, Redding T7 and the Lyman All-American 8.
Yup, pretty basic. I remember that... barely. For those starting out, keep in mind... you're just starting. Over time your skills will increase and you will constantly add to and improve your reloading setup. Always be on the hunt for more knowledge, it's out there, and before you know it you will be producing precision hand loads that offer the best accuracy that you and your firearm are capable of.
I use an RCBS rock chucker press from the '70s RCBS beam scale which ad has a turn nut on it for the single and half grain increments, my powder thrower is a Pacific tool company made by Hornady which is a micrometer dialed metering, I use all RCBS dies. I have an RCBS power station for de-burning and chamferring and cleaning of the primer pockets, and my case turner for overall length is a lyman manual I have, and I also have a lyman electric case turner. I have five different six different manuals which are horny. Nozzler Sierra and Old Hornady and an old lineman manuals and I just started working with Barnes ex bullets for my 30-06 and my 708 which I don't have any of those loads made up yet, and I use all different various powders I've never used varget most of my powders were IMR powders. And have a non-electronic dial caliper
Thanks for the work y’all do! I always enjoy Guys knowledge and experience with all the info shared on the channel. Could you share a video on primers sometime. Specifically I’d like Guys opinion on using WLR primers for the 7 rem mag. I can’t get any magnum primers but have heard the WLR’s work fine with certain powders and charges but can’t find any really detailed info. Thanks
I don't think I've ever used WLR primers for the 7mm Rem Mag. I suspect that they would work just fine though. As always, start low and work up.
Thanks for the reply. I have a few loads put together with 4831sc and these primers just waiting on the weather to shoot them
You can experiment with different primers, just start low using published loads. Generally, Federal 215 M are supposed to be the hottest, so if you have used them you may be fine. Good luck
FYI. I just rewatched the 3rd reload… I noticed you never toped up the charge.
I’m sure you’ll see that one be a little slower and off by a bit.
Thanks for these videos 👍
Ugh! First problem is finding a balance that actually is accurate.
When Im dropping my charge into the case and it gets blocked up I like to give it a good hard tap on the table 😎
Not sure if this is the right place to ask you guys but I would like to see some segments on reloading bismuth shotgun shells 23/4”-3” shells.
I'm not currently handloading shotgun shells, though I have in the past. Factory bismuth shells have been kind to my old Remington 32 and rough on the pheasants. I'm using 2 3/4" shells with #5 bismuth. Works great from my 80+ year old Remington over & under. Not allowed to use lead shot where I hunt.
Heys guys, I’m late to your channel but greatly enjoy the content. How many rounds, typically would I shoot to get to my final “recipe”?? Thank you
I think if I was going to invest in reloading gear in 2023.....there is no reason to not go digital for the finest of adjustments.
If you use power scoops and put the powder directly in the pan you dont need the powder dispenser and Trickler
I've used the Lee powder scoops and they have their place for sure. Simple to use and for many purposes accurate enough.
When is Part 5 coming out?
I use lee beams and a custom filed down liquid medicine spoon/tube for trickler and got 2yrs loadin almost every single day and have got to where I can add or subtract 1 kernel of stick powder and if needed I can with ball but hard on the eyes…all 4 of em…loadin 6.5prc n560 under Berger 140s in nosler cases now for my waypoint and found .58” 3rd group today..1.18” with the flyer…5th rd I put on jug@200yrds just testin this old cheap Simmons 14x I’m usin till I save for hopefully schmidt&bender…130tmk are nuclear at 3100ish…love my .308…it’s my #1 till I dial in 6.5…thanks guy….matt
Hello again!
I made a gig you set your phone in to use the camera to see the level, it's 2D so no bending over
UR, Have any of you used the case head expansion method as judging pressure signs when developing handloads? I read about it in John Withers book Precision Handloading and have been using it since I picked up a micrometer that measures to .0001". This method seems more science than art like reading primers and such.
Caliber specific funnel? Oh boy another money maker for someone else.
Je met le bouchon ( le projectile ) tout de suite après le remplissage de chaque douille. Si je doit arrêter, la poudre ne reste pas à l'air libre.
Excellent! I often do that as well. Many thanks to Google for translating. :)
I use the same set up as you but I try to get powder to dump within 1 or 2 tenths
Just curious why you didn't point out the recipe for .308 Win that is right on the Varget powder container? I would of compared that too, since it is from the powder manufacturer, and it was right there!
Good point! :)
What rifle was that 7mm prc in the B role shot? I've been looking for a nice Woodstock rifle, but in the modern age of composite/synthetic stocks, it's hard to find a classic wood stock.
I am thinking of going with the AA8 ultimate reloading kit but will it do my .338 laupa ammo when I get comfortable with my .223 ammo then the 6.5 creedmor then I would like to do my laupa if the press can do it
Hornady auto dispenser is what I've been using. Trying to decide if I want to upgrade to the newer Hornady dispenser or go with the Frankford Arsenal auto dispenser. Thoughts?
After watching several reviews on multiple units I went with Frankford Arsenal.
Where were these when I started reloading...? I have been using an electronic powder dropper and confirming the charge with a scale.
I'm still curious, though... how accurate does my charge need to be? I can get pretty anal about reloading. I'll run the electronic, confirm it on the analog, but I'll get suspicious that one or both are wrong. Once that thought sets in, I have to go back and recalibrate everything. Sometimes I notice my electronic one will drop +/-0.1 grains. As a machinist, I'd like to know a tolerance as I'm working on this. Is +/-0.1 good enough? Or should I keep working to make every load exact? I've seen some people say, "You're looking for a load that gives you as consistent of velocities in as wide of a range as possible" but what does consistent look like? 10ft/s? 50ft/s?
It really depends on the cartridge and your requirements. If we're shooting 9mm's at steel, at 25 yards and less, a lot of velocity variation is acceptable. If we're shooting long range rifle at 1,000 yards, we'd better be seeing single digit SD figures...
I'm not fond of your comment about adding powder to the hooper and then finding something else to do. When I learned reloading, it was driven into me the safety aspect one powder on the bench and when you are done and think you aren't coming back for a while to put the powder back in the container.
I realize you said later in the segment to put it away but I find it completely unnecessary to label the hopper.
I'm a lot more concerned with accidently not charging a case and later sticking a squib, than using a piece of painter's tape to indicate what's in the hopper. But I don't use a powder measure so that's not a problem. I'm pretty sure when I am loading 4831 which is sitting in front of me, that a bottle of 7828 sitting unopened 3 feet away is not what I am using and moving it 10 feet away will make no difference. I'm more concerned with a driver on a narrow road falling asleep or wandering into my lane. But I don't refuse to drive on narrow roads to avoid it. That would be a bit obsessive. If I have to be that way it might be better just to by factory ammo.
😀😃👍‼️
4895👍 my dad burns 4350
Powder is available. Barely. Large rifle primers? Good luck.
There comin around…my local shop has em….$100 for 1000…
Exactly. Primers remain difficult to source.
@@guyminer3168 30 min after I get a notification email from Brownells, Midway, and about a dozen others, they’re gone.
@@a-a-ron4679 - yup. It's a tough market for sure. All of us want components. It's been years since I've seen RL-22, a favorite of mine for the 7mm Rem Mag. Perhaps someday it will be readily available again.
@@guyminer3168 last week I searched and searched for H4350. Found some online only to have my money refunded cause they were out of stock. Finally got some today from Brownells. No large rifle primers though. Just gotta keep searching and stay on top of all the email notifications.
Great video, Guy!
Thanks