Please do not stop this series, this information is exactly what I and my friends have been looking for - a complete step by step process of spent brass to ready to shoot again. Thanks a ton for this!!
A decapping die by rcbs is my first step, then tumbling clean with stainless steel pins so that your brass is sparkling clean for your sizing dies. It also gets in the primer pockets well
I de-prime on a separate operation I then anneal and when I set up my re sizing die I measure cases and set them back 2 thousandths. And I use a mandrel to set my final neck diameter
This is a very useful series. I'm learning a little tips that I had omitted. I use the Lee case trimmer which is preset to spec length for my cartridge
I really like this series. And I keep waiting for him to say a happy little tree here. Not trying to be funny just really takes me back to being a kid and I love this series.
Pro Tip!! The VLD tool works amazing for crimped primers. No need for Swagers. Just debur the crimp. Just did 10k cases of 5.56 a few days ago. Not going to lie. It took me a few days to do it😂😂😂
I also have an old Pacific .308win Die set. Still works great after all these years! After resizing (I also lube the inside of the neck..) I put the cases in a ultrasonic cleaner, to remove any lube.
Excellent video for the beginner and a good refresher for the experienced too. If I am setting up to load plinking ammo, I tumble the cases long enough to knock the crud off, then raise the ram with the shell holder installed to top travel and turn the resizing die down until it touches the shell holder. Back off the ram just a bit and turn the die about 1/8th of a turn and then raise the ram to check for proper overcamming. While still in that position, I tighten the lock ring and then turn the allen head locking screw in. I've used Imperial die wax for 50 years and never had a stuck case. Yes, it can get messy but I always clean my dies after each session so the excess lube never has a chance to build up. For a long time I used the Lee trimming tool which works great but now have a Frankford power setup-It indexes off the shoulder and has places to install a primer pocket cleaning tool plus internal and external chamfer bits. I used to prime on press but found I like a hand primer seater because I can feel the new primer bottom out. One thing for the new folks-make sure your primer is seated below the case head. It normally is about .002-.005" but if you can run your finger over the case head and feel the depression, you'll be okay.
Great series I've always found once I have set up the resizing die and run the first case. Then chamber it and feel the bolt for tightness if tight screw the die down a little more and check again.
I love my Lyman Universal Trimmer...... I added the power adapter shaft and I modified a Forster 3-n-1 cutter head to fit on it.... Fast and easy prepping...
I currently use the RCBS Rocker Chucker press. I'm a liitle bit OCD so once I have prepped the cases before priming I run them back through my vibratory cleaner again especially the hand gun cases.
I reloaded 38/357 in my younger days. Still got my gear. Now I got a bunch of 1 fired brass for old milsurp rifles. Need to master this skill. Good video.
Thanks Guy. I really enjoy these and love to reload. I use Whidden and L. E. Wilson And Forster sizing dies, L. E. Wilson trimmer, and use steel wool instead of chamfer. I prefer this as it makes a more consistent neck tension for me. I used to use that Lyman chamfer tool that's you used and it was fine. I use a Sinclair primer pocket uniformer and a 21st century flash hole deburring tool. But I have been reloading for 40 years and have a fair amount of experience . I think the setup that you showed is a great way to start reloading as opposed to running out and buying costly custom dies. Buy a good value kit until new reloaders find out. If it is for them and know what they want to do and be safe! Reloading can be very dangerous! Only use data from a published source! Look forward to the next video!
Wilson case trimmer with micro adjustment and hold down arm on a mount stand. Turned my RCBS case trimmer 2 into a neck turning tool with auto feed. I do the flash holes and primer pockets and stick with the manual powder dispensing and measuring. Anneal before sizing.
Alright, thanks for this excellent feature! The brushing through the rifle case interior is something I am so glad you covered.No other reloading videos I viewed mention that.After your video I just took a random 5.56 caliber brass cartridge out of the (tumbled brass) bin to find it had fouling-buildup---so brass-tumbling only goes so far in cartridge-cleaning.Now,thanks to you,as a new ammo loader I will give each bullet that 2 second brush-through so deserved.The dirty interior of spent round brass cases may be an issue causing stuck cases in the press dies.Here's a well-delivered thorough class in ammo reloading that I could surely recommend.Kudos!
Now I’ve used both carbide and non-carbide dies. Various forms of lube for shells are available. A basic film is mostly what is needed. I noticed most lube is some form of water soluble solution. I’ve even used k-y jelly, I’ve thinned with some water. I’ve found application with my finger is fast and easy. Also a damp rag would quickly remove any lube after sizing. I recommend lubricant for any die regardless. It’s always a pain to remove a stuck case. I’m glad the host shared his experience with the case growing and how eventually it will impact safety. Trimmers can be as cheap as the Lee trimmers that come with a preset rod and base holder or you can spend hundreds of dollars on a fancy multi stage case preparation machine. It depends on what how much effort and time you are going to spend and your final objective.
Always great to see Guy. He is a true gentleman and goodwill ambassador for our sport. I haven't been able to start reloading yet due to space limitations, but i hope to in the near future. I have all the stuff and i have been saving brass and buying bullets and powders for years, and i bought a decent quantity of primers long before the shortage. Now it is just an issue of environment/physical plant
I find wax makes the dies need cleaning often. 80/20 lanolin is my new go-to. for cleaning case lube off... those microfiber towels from Costco, lay a few and spray with Isopropyl. speds up my process a good bit. great vid Guy.
@GuyMiner Thanks for sharing your tips.. I like how you simplify the set up process for the beginner. When I was first getting into reloading I had to learn a lot by trial and error due to the lack of a mentor. Expressing the importance of lube is important as well. Most beginners 1st mistake.. next the case trimming importance that’s most people struggle with the concepts and purpose for trimming there bullet until it doesn’t fit in the chamber 😂 I really love my LE Wilson trimmer for precision but for bulk plinking I just use Hornady case prep station.
I use a cheap tumbler with stainless steel pins, dawn dish soap, lemon brite dishwashing soap, and about 2 hours. Comes out absolutely beautiful. Just have to rinse the soap bubbles out :D
Excellent video! It's great to see someone who's had a lot of experience walk through the steps. I have been using a Forster Classic case trimmer for several years and I like how it performs. Like Guy, I usually check my cases after a couple of reloads. Thanks to UR!
Thanks for the information. I look forward to watching the series. This is just what I am looking for because I am trying to decide weather or not I ever want to get into it. To me it looks like a good hobby to geek out and become more intimate with the shooting experience. But it also looks like one of those things that once you start, shooting will become an even more expensive hobby because one will always want a little better widget to make just a little difference.
This is about the worst possible time to get into reloading. Primers are hard to find, and three times the price they were in early 2020. Powder is double what it was, and much harder to find in 4 or 8 pound jugs. If you are shooting a NATO caliber, you are probably better off just buying ammo right now.
@@TheSuburban15 Thanks for the opinion. Unfortunately you are not the first person to say it. My ammo diet is 380ACP, 9MM, 45ACP, 223/.556, 30.06. From what I'm seeing it will take a lot of reloading to pay off the reloading equipment.
@@dennisholle1005I was on the same fence as you too! Couldn't justify the expense of all the equipment.. however.. I also knew that I'd spend more time and money doing so 😮 For me.. it isn't about saving money.. it is about doing something that I will certainly enjoy and be able to pass down to my grandchildren! So.. I figured the best thing to do was buy a reloading manual.. read through it and ask Santa Claus and family members for the equipment 😊 That part is out of the way.. I only have to pick up primers and powder and I'll be ready to reload! Best idea ever 😜 I believe reloading will become necessary for anyone that enjoys going to the range! Taking the time to teach our family members is the added bonus.. that I desired! God bless.. and I hope that you can get into the hobby too ❤
I use the "Worlds Finest Trimmer". Very fast when trimming a large batch of brass (have done up to 1000 pieces of brass at a time). I have it set to trim to minimum case length but I don't always get exactly that. I set my calipers at half way between minimum and maximum case length and lock it in place. I then use it as a "Go/No Go" gauge. If it passes through, it is good to go. If not, I run it through the trimmer again and recheck. When resizing, I don't want to push the shoulder back all the way so I use Redding Competition Shell Holders. They come in different thicknesses so that I can vary how much I push the shoulder back. Doing that requires another tool from Hornady so that you know which shell holder you need. This may be more than you want to do at this stage of the game but it does help improve the accuracy of the ammunition.
So my only question is, as a beginning reloaded, is how do you set up the fine portion of that Lyman trimmer? Is it just by feel or is there a specific measurement that you’re looking for? By the way this information is invaluable!! I really appreciate all of the content that’s out on here from powders to loads to even how to set some things up on it.
This is the same press and primer system I have, I bought a second primer system setup and keep one for large and one for small rather than changing out the cup.
I've been reloading for over 2 years and still havent gotten any tumbler for cleaning, I think it really isnt necessary. Usually just wipe clean, if they are extra dirty Ill use some dishwashing sope and hot water and clean them in a bucket.
Great series. Been doing pistol for a while now but just getting into rifle. Already picked up a couple pointers here. I have the exact trimmer and deburr tool. Work great! But as you said in part 1... You have to take your time and follow the process.
I use the RCBS Trim Pro, similar to the Lyman one you showed. Trimming chamfering, deburring and removing nato primer crimps seems to take forever. Some day I will get a Henderson or Giaurd trimmer.
I had a Lyman trimmer. It had issues with the set screws on the adjusting rings coming loose and the adjustments changing. I then started using Lee's trimmers. With the case length gauge the adjustment can't change.
Make sure then you put your sizing die in to check the shoulder length is in the correct spot. My case shoulder was off slightly and chambering my rounds were hard. Definitely double check with calipers before you go reloading the rest. Use a reference case to check and compare.
First of all: Thank You Sir's, for your awesome Series on reloading. I have just discovered Your website (UR) and I think it's great. Now I'm speaking of " Basic Rifle Reloading Part 2: Sizing and Case Prep" For this Part i have one question: may it not be a little bit better to set the decapping / calibrating - Die in souch a way, that the Press - Stem (with the Caseholder on Top) touches the Die and then back the Die of a little bit and start calibrating from there? My Idea: When you then take your Gun and try to load the Case and set the Die in small incremental steps a litte bit deeper until the Case is going just right into the Chamber you might never have problems with to much Headspace and from there a Casehead- Separation. But that shouldn't be a criticism at all now!!! I think, when someone blindly follows the Advices from his Die - Manufacturer, his Cases sometimes may become a little bit to short for his Rifle - Chamber. Than it cannot seal the Chamber correctly and the hot Gases can come back right into the face of the Shooter. Not very safe... Please excuse my bad English. I am an older german sack, a bit over 60 years old. I began reloading seven Years ago and for me its a lot of fun. Because I try to learn something new every day (in reloading and Tools therefor), Your Website is exactly right for me. Thank You for Your great Work. Stay healthy and keep it up! Greetings from northern Germany, JohnnyG
I’ve been loading 308 for a few months now and getting pretty down into the weeds. I was under the impression that 2.015” was max coal with 2.005” the desired trim length
Great video! I use Lee products and do everything manually, following the same steps. My basic rifle cartridge is the 7mm Rem Mag, with 139gr Hornandy Interlock BTSP, and 60gr of IMR 4350. Keep the videos coming please.
I use the Lee trimmer. I find it’s faster to change cartridges as there’s really no set up. I change the pilot once in a while in the unlikely event that the case length rod wears. I also debur the primer flash hole and believe it to be an important step in brass preparation.
Great job. I've been reloading for around 52 years now give or take. I started with my grandfather at age 8 or 10. I have an extensive knowledge base of the processes. I was asked a simple question and couldn't for the life of me remember the exact answer. I think it's something that should be put into a loading video. Why do you not do a ladder test on Virgin unfired brass? I don't really remember the total exact answer. But, you want your brass fireformed to your chamber so the cases will seal the gases better and more consistent. Jeffrey O. Dohl
I use a rcbs trimmer die. you just put the case inside and what ever sticks out the end just gets filed down and then you have you perfectly trimmed case
Nice content. On the primer pocket cleaning, i would be careful on cases like 6mm arc. The 6 arc hornady brass has light tension of the primer pockets and you take some material off when you clean it with that tool. For cases like that deprime then tumble.
... I never see anyone deburring flash holes in these movies ... I see plenty of cases with the flash hole full of burrs ... I use a case flash hole deburring tool on both ends of the flash hole ... I also use a copper gun cleaning brush of appropriate size on the end of a drill to clean the inside of the case mouth ... makes for less "armstrong" necessary on the resizing stroke
Good video. Are you going to reload with Winchester staball match so we can get an unbiased evaluation of the powder for competition and hunting ammo? How about 223rem (80 or 85.5), 6mmbr (107 or 109), or 308win (175 or 185) for the test? Thanks I make my own 10:1 case lube with 99% isopropyl alcohol and lanolin, use forster coax and fl die, 21st century expander mandrel, gracey trimmer, rcbs chamfer tool, and anneal after 2 firings. Forster ultraseater die. Powder measured to the kernel of powder. K&M hand seater with gauge for primer seating so I can feel when primer pockets are getting too loose.
Oversized the piss outta those cases. Take a watch of Randy Shelby’s case sizing video. He sizes the rifle case to the rifle it’s being fired it and it’s the best way for match accuracy.
That's exactly how the dies instructions say to set them. Consistency is accuracy. You may gain a little with minimal shoulder bump. At least, that's the latest popular statement. Oversizing can reduce case life.
First off, his last name is Selby, second when trying to achieve precision results when reloading the feel method is never the best way, that is what measuring tools are for. doing something wrong for 50 years doesn't make it right!
I use a Forester case trimmer but find it is far less than a precision tool. Mainly due to the collet locking system. Maybe their all like that? I have nothing else to compare it too.
In regards to resizing the brass, I’m very new to reloading, but for my .270win I have to put lube inside of the case neck otherwise it’s near impossible to run the ram back down. Is this normal? Maybe a problem with my resizing die or my method? Using Hornady custom dies
Thanks for the video. I noticed that you didn't use a comparator with headspace bushing to determine how much to "bump" the shoulder (i.e., datum line to base). Is shoulder bumping necessary for AR-15 rounds such as 6.5 Grendel? Not looking for precision reloading but would like to ensure they fly straight for hunting within 300 yds.
I have been using a RCBS trimmer and a Lyman been thinking about switching to a trimmer that indexes off the shoulder. Can y’all do a video on the difference pros and cons. Looking at a Giraud trimmer
Frankford arsenal case trimmer station. Do you, when prepping your cases always full length resize, sense all gun chambers are not the same. ( bolt action and AR - 10 for example.
It depends on how much time and effort you are wanting to spend. If you don't de prime you will have dirty primer pockets but vibratory dry cleaners usually won't clean the pockets very good and can get media stuck in the flash hole. so unless you don't care how clean they get or are wet tumbling with ss pins don't bother de priming first. It's all personal preference and no harm in doing either way or both ways. I de prime then wet tumble then dry tumble to dry and polish the brass then resize with the de prime pin in the die just in case something got stuck in the flash hole.
I watch your videos as a beginner and just dry tumbled some 9 mm brass with walnut shells and dryer sheets 0:05 and used the FA separator but the inside of the brass is dusty. What’s the easiest way to clean them up ?
So it doesn't have to be the exact length your reloading book is giving you? Are there min/max lengths stated in the reloading books? What determines which reloading book you should use? The brand of bullet or gear you're using? Obviously new to this, any and all feedback is welcome. Thank you.
Guy, I have trimmed cases to the recommended length 1.750 for 223. We shot them up at p. dogs through multiple guns, and when I go to reload, many are shorter???🤷 Will my neck tension be different on a 1.745 case from a 1.750 case in a full length sizing die? Or is that only true if I put them through a crimping die set for the longer bullet. Thereby not getting a crimp on the shorter one??
Please do not stop this series, this information is exactly what I and my friends have been looking for - a complete step by step process of spent brass to ready to shoot again. Thanks a ton for this!!
Agree!!
This is just what I needed too. I am about to start reloading!
This is awesome. He’s like the Bob Ross of reloading.
Everybody likes lub
But to much
Lol
I was thinking the same exact thing lol
Will Owen Wilson play him in the movie?
As someone relatively new to handloading/reloading, these videos and this channel have been invaluable. Thanks UL team!
When its a Guy Miner video I feel like I can "like" before I even watch. Enjoying this series
A decapping die by rcbs is my first step, then tumbling clean with stainless steel pins so that your brass is sparkling clean for your sizing dies. It also gets in the primer pockets well
This is priceless information for those of us who didn't grow up with anyone to teach us these things. I greatly appreciate it.
I de-prime on a separate operation I then anneal and when I set up my re sizing die I measure cases and set them back 2 thousandths. And I use a mandrel to set my final neck diameter
How do you determine what neck tension you go with?
This is a very useful series. I'm learning a little tips that I had omitted. I use the Lee case trimmer which is preset to spec length for my cartridge
I really like this series. And I keep waiting for him to say a happy little tree here. Not trying to be funny just really takes me back to being a kid and I love this series.
Pro Tip!! The VLD tool works amazing for crimped primers. No need for Swagers. Just debur the crimp. Just did 10k cases of 5.56 a few days ago. Not going to lie. It took me a few days to do it😂😂😂
I also have an old Pacific .308win Die set. Still works great after all these years! After resizing (I also lube the inside of the neck..) I put the cases in a ultrasonic cleaner, to remove any lube.
Excellent video for the beginner and a good refresher for the experienced too. If I am setting up to load plinking ammo, I tumble the cases long enough to knock the crud off, then raise the ram with the shell holder installed to top travel and turn the resizing die down until it touches the shell holder. Back off the ram just a bit and turn the die about 1/8th of a turn and then raise the ram to check for proper overcamming. While still in that position, I tighten the lock ring and then turn the allen head locking screw in. I've used Imperial die wax for 50 years and never had a stuck case. Yes, it can get messy but I always clean my dies after each session so the excess lube never has a chance to build up. For a long time I used the Lee trimming tool which works great but now have a Frankford power setup-It indexes off the shoulder and has places to install a primer pocket cleaning tool plus internal and external chamfer bits. I used to prime on press but found I like a hand primer seater because I can feel the new primer bottom out. One thing for the new folks-make sure your primer is seated below the case head. It normally is about .002-.005" but if you can run your finger over the case head and feel the depression, you'll be okay.
This guys voice is soothing. Feel like he’s gonna hypnotize me. Could listen to him all day.
Great series I've always found once I have set up the resizing die and run the first case. Then chamber it and feel the bolt for tightness if tight screw the die down a little more and check again.
I love my Lyman Universal Trimmer...... I added the power adapter shaft and I modified a Forster 3-n-1 cutter head to fit on it.... Fast and easy prepping...
I currently use the RCBS Rocker Chucker press. I'm a liitle bit OCD so once I have prepped the cases before priming I run them back through my vibratory cleaner again especially the hand gun cases.
The good old RCBS Rockchucker is one heck of a press. I've had mine since the mid 1980's and it was all I used for a couple of decades.
I reloaded 38/357 in my younger days. Still got my gear. Now I got a bunch of 1 fired brass for old milsurp rifles. Need to master this skill. Good video.
Guy is like the Mister Rogers of reloading soft-spoken with great content
Nice video! Even as a somewhat experienced hand loader I really appreciate this series. There is always something new to learn.
Thanks Guy. I really enjoy these and love to reload. I use Whidden and L. E. Wilson And Forster sizing dies, L. E. Wilson trimmer, and use steel wool instead of chamfer. I prefer this as it makes a more consistent neck tension for me. I used to use that Lyman chamfer tool that's you used and it was fine. I use a Sinclair primer pocket uniformer and a 21st century flash hole deburring tool. But I have been reloading for 40 years and have a fair amount of experience . I think the setup that you showed is a great way to start reloading as opposed to running out and buying costly custom dies. Buy a good value kit until new reloaders find out. If it is for them and know what they want to do and be safe! Reloading can be very dangerous! Only use data from a published source! Look forward to the next video!
Wilson case trimmer with micro adjustment and hold down arm on a mount stand. Turned my RCBS case trimmer 2 into a neck turning tool with auto feed. I do the flash holes and primer pockets and stick with the manual powder dispensing and measuring. Anneal before sizing.
Alright, thanks for this excellent feature! The brushing through the rifle case interior is something I am so glad you covered.No other reloading videos I viewed mention that.After your video I just took a random 5.56 caliber brass cartridge out of the (tumbled brass) bin to find it had fouling-buildup---so brass-tumbling only goes so far in cartridge-cleaning.Now,thanks to you,as a new ammo loader I will give each bullet that 2 second brush-through so deserved.The dirty interior of spent round brass cases may be an issue causing stuck cases in the press dies.Here's a well-delivered thorough class in ammo reloading that I could surely recommend.Kudos!
I would love to see an addtion to this series about necking up or down. Thanks for the great content
Now I’ve used both carbide and non-carbide dies. Various forms of lube for shells are available. A basic film is mostly what is needed. I noticed most lube is some form of water soluble solution. I’ve even used k-y jelly, I’ve thinned with some water. I’ve found application with my finger is fast and easy. Also a damp rag would quickly remove any lube after sizing. I recommend lubricant for any die regardless. It’s always a pain to remove a stuck case.
I’m glad the host shared his experience with the case growing and how eventually it will impact safety. Trimmers can be as cheap as the Lee trimmers that come with a preset rod and base holder or you can spend hundreds of dollars on a fancy multi stage case preparation machine. It depends on what how much effort and time you are going to spend and your final objective.
Always great to see Guy. He is a true gentleman and goodwill ambassador for our sport. I haven't been able to start reloading yet due to space limitations, but i hope to in the near future. I have all the stuff and i have been saving brass and buying bullets and powders for years, and i bought a decent quantity of primers long before the shortage. Now it is just an issue of environment/physical plant
Hello, greetings from Denmark, I just started reloading and realy enjoy your videos. Thank you for our work
The lee case length guage and lyman prep station with the lee cutter is the quickest way to trim cases and they all come out great.
I like to use spray on RCBS lube for resizing. I try to do large quantity's of brass and the spray lube works GREAT.
Like the Bob Ross of reloading. Such a soothing speaking voice. Haha
I have RCBS reloading tools, so other than my tools being green, it's pretty much the same. Great refresher for me. 😊
I find wax makes the dies need cleaning often. 80/20 lanolin is my new go-to. for cleaning case lube off... those microfiber towels from Costco, lay a few and spray with Isopropyl. speds up my process a good bit. great vid Guy.
Very informative. Thank you for making this. Yes, please do more.
Best set of videos. Why people can't talk slow like you. Thanks 🙏
@GuyMiner Thanks for sharing your tips.. I like how you simplify the set up process for the beginner. When I was first getting into reloading I had to learn a lot by trial and error due to the lack of a mentor. Expressing the importance of lube is important as well. Most beginners 1st mistake.. next the case trimming importance that’s most people struggle with the concepts and purpose for trimming there bullet until it doesn’t fit in the chamber 😂 I really love my LE Wilson trimmer for precision but for bulk plinking I just use Hornady case prep station.
I use a cheap tumbler with stainless steel pins, dawn dish soap, lemon brite dishwashing soap, and about 2 hours. Comes out absolutely beautiful. Just have to rinse the soap bubbles out :D
Excellent video! It's great to see someone who's had a lot of experience walk through the steps. I have been using a Forster Classic case trimmer for several years and I like how it performs. Like Guy, I usually check my cases after a couple of reloads. Thanks to UR!
Awesome video. Love the instructor’s calm voice and attitude. Noticed that instructor did not measure case dimensions after sizing case!
I started to trim before I resize it gave me better case neck life trimming with a looser mandril .
Thanks for the information. I look forward to watching the series. This is just what I am looking for because I am trying to decide weather or not I ever want to get into it. To me it looks like a good hobby to geek out and become more intimate with the shooting experience. But it also looks like one of those things that once you start, shooting will become an even more expensive hobby because one will always want a little better widget to make just a little difference.
This is about the worst possible time to get into reloading. Primers are hard to find, and three times the price they were in early 2020. Powder is double what it was, and much harder to find in 4 or 8 pound jugs. If you are shooting a NATO caliber, you are probably better off just buying ammo right now.
@@TheSuburban15 Thanks for the opinion. Unfortunately you are not the first person to say it. My ammo diet is 380ACP, 9MM, 45ACP, 223/.556, 30.06. From what I'm seeing it will take a lot of reloading to pay off the reloading equipment.
@@dennisholle1005I was on the same fence as you too!
Couldn't justify the expense of all the equipment.. however.. I also knew that I'd spend more time and money doing so 😮
For me.. it isn't about saving money.. it is about doing something that I will certainly enjoy and be able to pass down to my grandchildren!
So.. I figured the best thing to do was buy a reloading manual.. read through it and ask Santa Claus and family members for the equipment 😊
That part is out of the way.. I only have to pick up primers and powder and I'll be ready to reload!
Best idea ever 😜
I believe reloading will become necessary for anyone that enjoys going to the range! Taking the time to teach our family members is the added bonus.. that I desired!
God bless.. and I hope that you can get into the hobby too ❤
Great video, help me refresh my memory back 30 years ago thanks,
I use the "Worlds Finest Trimmer". Very fast when trimming a large batch of brass (have done up to 1000 pieces of brass at a time). I have it set to trim to minimum case length but I don't always get exactly that. I set my calipers at half way between minimum and maximum case length and lock it in place. I then use it as a "Go/No Go" gauge. If it passes through, it is good to go. If not, I run it through the trimmer again and recheck.
When resizing, I don't want to push the shoulder back all the way so I use Redding Competition Shell Holders. They come in different thicknesses so that I can vary how much I push the shoulder back. Doing that requires another tool from Hornady so that you know which shell holder you need. This may be more than you want to do at this stage of the game but it does help improve the accuracy of the ammunition.
So my only question is, as a beginning reloaded, is how do you set up the fine portion of that Lyman trimmer? Is it just by feel or is there a specific measurement that you’re looking for?
By the way this information is invaluable!! I really appreciate all of the content that’s out on here from powders to loads to even how to set some things up on it.
This is the same press and primer system I have, I bought a second primer system setup and keep one for large and one for small rather than changing out the cup.
I've been reloading for over 2 years and still havent gotten any tumbler for cleaning, I think it really isnt necessary. Usually just wipe clean, if they are extra dirty Ill use some dishwashing sope and hot water and clean them in a bucket.
I just searched this and it was perfect and you just uploaded it no way!
im using these tools and the video was nice and detailed. i use the rcbs brass boss to finish the cases though.
I love how this guy is taking the show
Great series. Been doing pistol for a while now but just getting into rifle. Already picked up a couple pointers here. I have the exact trimmer and deburr tool. Work great! But as you said in part 1... You have to take your time and follow the process.
I use the RCBS Trim Pro, similar to the Lyman one you showed. Trimming chamfering, deburring and removing nato primer crimps seems to take forever. Some day I will get a Henderson or Giaurd trimmer.
I had a Lyman trimmer. It had issues with the set screws on the adjusting rings coming loose and the adjustments changing. I then started using Lee's trimmers. With the case length gauge the adjustment can't change.
Make sure then you put your sizing die in to check the shoulder length is in the correct spot. My case shoulder was off slightly and chambering my rounds were hard. Definitely double check with calipers before you go reloading the rest. Use a reference case to check and compare.
First of all: Thank You Sir's, for your awesome Series on reloading.
I have just discovered Your website (UR) and I think it's great.
Now I'm speaking of " Basic Rifle Reloading Part 2: Sizing and Case Prep"
For this Part i have one question: may it not be a little bit better to set
the decapping / calibrating - Die in souch a way, that the Press - Stem
(with the Caseholder on Top) touches the Die and then back the Die of
a little bit and start calibrating from there?
My Idea:
When you then take your Gun and try to load the Case and set the
Die in small incremental steps a litte bit deeper until the Case is going
just right into the Chamber you might never have problems with
to much Headspace and from there a Casehead- Separation.
But that shouldn't be a criticism at all now!!!
I think, when someone blindly follows the Advices from his Die -
Manufacturer, his Cases sometimes may become a little bit to
short for his Rifle - Chamber. Than it cannot seal the Chamber
correctly and the hot Gases can come back right into the face of
the Shooter. Not very safe...
Please excuse my bad English.
I am an older german sack, a bit over 60 years old. I began reloading
seven Years ago and for me its a lot of fun. Because I try to learn
something new every day (in reloading and Tools therefor), Your
Website is exactly right for me. Thank You for Your great Work.
Stay healthy and keep it up!
Greetings from northern Germany,
JohnnyG
I’ve been loading 308 for a few months now and getting pretty down into the weeds. I was under the impression that 2.015” was max coal with 2.005” the desired trim length
Great video! I use Lee products and do everything manually, following the same steps. My basic rifle cartridge is the 7mm Rem Mag, with 139gr Hornandy Interlock BTSP, and 60gr of IMR 4350. Keep the videos coming please.
I use a Lyman case prep machine. So much easier and faster.
I use the Lee trimmer. I find it’s faster to change cartridges as there’s really no set up. I change the pilot once in a while in the unlikely event that the case length rod wears. I also debur the primer flash hole and believe it to be an important step in brass preparation.
I have the same die set for 30.06 and I have the Lyman trimmer
Great job. I've been reloading for around 52 years now give or take. I started with my grandfather at age 8 or 10. I have an extensive knowledge base of the processes. I was asked a simple question and couldn't for the life of me remember the exact answer. I think it's something that should be put into a loading video.
Why do you not do a ladder test on Virgin unfired brass? I don't really remember the total exact answer.
But, you want your brass fireformed to your chamber so the cases will seal the gases better and more consistent.
Jeffrey O. Dohl
I use a rcbs trimmer die. you just put the case inside and what ever sticks out the end just gets filed down and then you have you perfectly trimmed case
Nice content. On the primer pocket cleaning, i would be careful on cases like 6mm arc. The 6 arc hornady brass has light tension of the primer pockets and you take some material off when you clean it with that tool. For cases like that deprime then tumble.
Thanks, this will be a great help in the beginning of my reloading experience!
... I never see anyone deburring flash holes in these movies ... I see plenty of cases with the flash hole full of burrs ... I use a case flash hole deburring tool on both ends of the flash hole ... I also use a copper gun cleaning brush of appropriate size on the end of a drill to clean the inside of the case mouth ... makes for less "armstrong" necessary on the resizing stroke
I use the reamer that comes with the lyman multi tool with my drill for military crimps
I used to use the spent primers to shoot in my sling shot 😉
RCBS case trimmer with Lyman demurring tool
I also size before trimming so that the case is the perfect length for setting and crimping.
Little Crow Gunworks Case trimmer the only was to go!!!
How about headspace?
Im just starting, going to begin with 45 long colt and go from there
Excellent info for us plebes!
Another great video Guy!!!
I use a lee case length guage and a cordless drill
Good video. Are you going to reload with Winchester staball match so we can get an unbiased evaluation of the powder for competition and hunting ammo? How about 223rem (80 or 85.5), 6mmbr (107 or 109), or 308win (175 or 185) for the test? Thanks
I make my own 10:1 case lube with 99% isopropyl alcohol and lanolin, use forster coax and fl die, 21st century expander mandrel, gracey trimmer, rcbs chamfer tool, and anneal after 2 firings. Forster ultraseater die. Powder measured to the kernel of powder. K&M hand seater with gauge for primer seating so I can feel when primer pockets are getting too loose.
Great content
... the Lee case trimmer and lock stud mounted on a drill works for me ... cases come out same length every time ... nothing to set up or adjust
I was taught to hit the die with spray lube every 5-10 cases. What’s the advantages/disadvantages of this method?
Great video, very informative.
Thank you for the informative video. One question; do you have lubricant on the neck brush??
Oversized the piss outta those cases. Take a watch of Randy Shelby’s case sizing video. He sizes the rifle case to the rifle it’s being fired it and it’s the best way for match accuracy.
That's exactly how the dies instructions say to set them. Consistency is accuracy. You may gain a little with minimal shoulder bump. At least, that's the latest popular statement. Oversizing can reduce case life.
First off, his last name is Selby, second when trying to achieve precision results when reloading the feel method is never the best way, that is what measuring tools are for. doing something wrong for 50 years doesn't make it right!
The Bob Ross of reloading
I use a Forester case trimmer but find it is far less than a precision tool. Mainly due to the collet locking system. Maybe their all like that? I have nothing else to compare it too.
In regards to resizing the brass, I’m very new to reloading, but for my .270win I have to put lube inside of the case neck otherwise it’s near impossible to run the ram back down. Is this normal? Maybe a problem with my resizing die or my method? Using Hornady custom dies
When you are brushing the inside of neck are you using anything on the brush?
Thanks for the video. I noticed that you didn't use a comparator with headspace bushing to determine how much to "bump" the shoulder (i.e., datum line to base). Is shoulder bumping necessary for AR-15 rounds such as 6.5 Grendel? Not looking for precision reloading but would like to ensure they fly straight for hunting within 300 yds.
For semi-automatics normally it is best to full length resize anyways so the round chambers and ejects easily like factory rounds
I have been using a RCBS trimmer and a Lyman been thinking about switching to a trimmer that indexes off the shoulder.
Can y’all do a video on the difference pros and cons.
Looking at a Giraud trimmer
I have to say you never want to leave lube in the case neck, it will contaminate the powder!
Thank you for your knowledge 🙏
Frankford arsenal case trimmer station. Do you, when prepping your cases always full length resize, sense all gun chambers are not the same. ( bolt action and AR - 10 for example.
thanks for the info im new and trying to learn. but was just wondering is it better to deprime before you clean brass ?
It depends on how much time and effort you are wanting to spend. If you don't de prime you will have dirty primer pockets but vibratory dry cleaners usually won't clean the pockets very good and can get media stuck in the flash hole. so unless you don't care how clean they get or are wet tumbling with ss pins don't bother de priming first. It's all personal preference and no harm in doing either way or both ways. I de prime then wet tumble then dry tumble to dry and polish the brass then resize with the de prime pin in the die just in case something got stuck in the flash hole.
I watch your videos as a beginner and just dry tumbled some 9 mm brass with walnut shells and dryer sheets 0:05 and used the FA separator but the inside of the brass is dusty. What’s the easiest way to clean them up ?
So it doesn't have to be the exact length your reloading book is giving you? Are there min/max lengths stated in the reloading books? What determines which reloading book you should use? The brand of bullet or gear you're using? Obviously new to this, any and all feedback is welcome. Thank you.
Good stuff. Thanks
i would think you would want to put a little more emphasis. on measuring after sizing.
no measurement for shoulder bump not what I would call proper resizing
A great teacher!!!!!
NEW SUBSCRIBER HERE !.. FROM THE FAR EAST..👍😊
@Ultimatereloader how do you do this on progressive presses? Do I need to trim rifle cases every time?
Nice job!
At what point in the reloading/case prep would you annil the brass?
Guy, I have trimmed cases to the recommended length 1.750 for 223. We shot them up at p. dogs through multiple guns, and when I go to reload, many are shorter???🤷
Will my neck tension be different on a 1.745 case from a 1.750 case in a full length sizing die? Or is that only true if I put them through a crimping die set for the longer bullet. Thereby not getting a crimp on the shorter one??