Before i used to use my lee loader in the house during winter till yes a 243 primer went bang my wife the shygirl put a stop to that. as for priming after seeing Gavin show the lee bench mount i got one and i really enjoy it easy on ole arthur in me fingers, thanks from WV j.schell
I often brag about my own stupidity if it can prevent someone from getting injured, so listen to this. Over fifty years ago when I started reloading, I purchased some primers in a gun store very cheaply, There were in a small paper bag. I should have passed on this deal, since this is no way to store primers. When I got home, I figured that it would make more sense to put these primers in a more substantial container, so I put them in a glass jar. Later, I realized that if one of them had gone off, that jar would have been a fragmentation grenade! I hope others can learn from my bad mistakes.
Primer safety is no joke. I had one of the early XL650s. I had a full primer tube in the press. The one I was pressing in went off, daisy chained around the rotary wheel, igniting the 95 or so in the tube. It blew the plastic low primer warning tube through the ceiling and left me deaf in one ear for 3-4 days It was probably a month before my hearing returned to normal. In over 50,000 round reloaded, it never happened again. Always wondered what caused it. Now I ALWAYS wear hearing protection in addition to safety glasses any time I'm reloading.
I prefer to use a hand primer because I get a good feel for how the primers are seating in the case. You left out 2 important points about priming. 1. Make sure your primer pockets are clean. If not this can prevent a primer from seating fully which may cause premature ignition. Or just as bad no ignition because the firing pin pushes the primer forward without enough force to ignite. 2. You didn’t explain to check that primers are properly seated. I visually inspect my primer depth, run a finger to check for high primers. You can also place the case on something flat like a piece of glass to see if the case rocks. If it does the primer is not set deep enough.
Great tutorial! With your calming voice, I feel that you’re the Bob Ross of the reloading world.😅 Time to start growing the fro. Thanks again for your knowledge
I haven't seen a safety tube to go around the primer tube on a press. Must be something new. I started out priming on the press, never liked it much. Learned about Lee hand prime tool and never looked back. Tried all Lee's hand prime tools and now use Lee's bench prime tool. Like it very much.
Well I have used the RCBS hand priming unit a lot over the years in addition to the on press tools. Lately while handloading rifle brass that had staked or crimped primers even after uniformed the primer pockets I was having damaged primers with the hand priming! So I dug out the RAM Priming setup that came with my RCBS Big Max press> Since going to this setup I haven't had any issues utilizing this setup! The Ram holder (shown bottom left) is fitted where the shell holder is normally placed on the press ram. The setup has two rams, one for small and one for large primers (shown in the middle). The die (shown near the top of the picture below) actually will hold the proper shell holder for the cartridge being primed. Care needs to be taken as you adjust the die height such as the push pin inside the ram will full seat the primers. This system is slower than hand priming, but the precision obtained priming with this setup has been very precise and positive. The Ram Priming Unit gives reloaders better feel by seating the primer at the top of the press stroke. Reloaders can also preset a positive stop to speed the process. It works with any single-stage or turret press with 7/8-inch-14 threads and an RCBS® type single-stage shell holder. The unit includes large and small primer rod assemblies for Boxer-type rifle and pistol primers.
Rotate the priming tool 180 degrees (lever to palm) and the primers will more naturally slide into the proper position and at the same time be facing away from your face.
That's the way I do It, it just feels more natural that way to me. I use one of the older Lee Auto Prime for all of my priming and my biggest complaint about it is that when you have Primers in it and lay it down, a primer can come out. A little slide block like on the Lyman would be nice to have.
My first experience with hand loading was also with one of those Lee all in one dies and i had a primer blow up too. Didn’t get hurt but it scared the heck out of me! Bought a single stage press the next day and never looked back! I love this series!
I use an RCBS Universal hand priming tool and I like it because it does not require a shell holder to hold the case. The only problem I have ever found was when priming 45 Colt cases-the rim as those familiar with that particular case is barely there and the RCBS Universal does not sufficiently hold the case. For that cartridge, I do have an old RCBS hand priming tool which requires the shell holder and it works fine. Alternatively, I can press prime on the top of my Forster Co-Ax which does not require the shell holder. It's a pretty neat system but rather slow. I'm happy to hear you mention keeping your tools clean as a safety measure. I'm not surgical about it but I clean my dies after every use with gun scrubber or something similar followed by some rem-oil spray. As to the press itself, I wipe it down with a clean, oily rag before beginning operations on it, paying some attention to the press ram and a needle oiler for places the rag can't get to such as hinge pins, etc. Just a drop of oil will do it on the pins.
I lucked out and boss turned me onto an estate auction and got 4000lg rifle…not cheap but got me started on .308…another 10k between sm rifle,pistol and recently 1000mag pistol I can stay busy when not workin awhile….I load everyday
Love this series! Look forward to the other videos. All great basic info... I de-prime rifle off press but prime on my 550C. Pistol gets everything done on press. And... Guy is spot on... If you have ever touched off a primer your level of attention moving forward is 4X!
I use the Lee Ram Prime system on the (portable) Buchanan Precision Hand Press that has the Hornady LNL quick die change bushing system. I adjust the die with the shell holder so that when the primer bottoms out the levers on the press are right at their stops. Works great, and very versatile, as I can prime cases at the dining table, in bed, on the table at the range, or even sitting on a log out in the woods.
I appreciate the demonstration. Many people just don’t realize primers can be sensitive. It’s basically a pressure sensitive explosive compound, that you must press into the base of the shell. They also touched on the difference between standard and magnum primers. I personally prefer the off press primer. Lee, Lyman, RCBS, and others offer their version. My version I’m using does not use the base holder like Lyman’s does, pick one you prefer. Alway remember to keep shells pointed in a safe direction.
I always prime cases in the press, manually one at a time, and with a die installed. I have seen a primer explode using a hand priming tool, thankfully no one was injured. A plus with using a press is I have never had a primer seated too shallow, where I need to re-squeeze or re-set it to the correct depth. Great safety tips.
My buddy and I was curious one day about how much power a primer has. We took 5 .410 shotgun shells, emptied the pellets and powder from them. We took just the wad and put back in the empty hull, went outside and fired it. It shot the hull a good distance. We then took some 20oz water bottles and set them up. With just the primer behind the wad it still had more than enough power to knock water bottles over from 10 feet.
I've had one primer go off. I load about 3000 rounds a year. It was due to the crimp not being completely removed on a 223. I glance at the primer to see that it is not upside-down as I begin to squeeze, then slide the shell on and point it away from me. Fortunately, that routine saved me from injury. I currently hand prime with an RCBS. I'm looking at moving to Frankfort Arsenals' perfect seater as it is adjustable for depth.
I started with a Lee handpress. I had a bad time, I kept crushing primers. And I bent the lever. Then I rebuilt it. That only worked so long. I never really used the press mounted one. I went to the RCBS handpress and that worked for years. Now I use a RCBS bench mounted priming tool for match loads and that I think does a much better job.
I have primed with the press and several hand primers, but the Sinclair hand primer is my favorite. Next, the Hornady. I was mentored by a gentleman who took everything seriously when reloading and priming cases for the same consistency as one would for bullet seating depths may seem anal, I just consider it the joy of reloading.
I've been using the RCBS Automatic priming tool for a few years now and I really like it. I have tried the Lee and RCBS hand priming tools, but they make my hands tried after a bit of use. I had terrible luck using the new Lee bench priming tool. I just couldn't get it to work for me and I finally just got rid of it.
I’m a total nubee to reloading and am using the Lee classic setup where you hammer the primers in with a rod in a die, definitely seems dangerous, been expecting one to go off but so far so good.
For my .308, I use the Lee Auto Bench Prime. I saw it demonstrated on this channel by Gavin. It works great and is easily pointed 90 degrees away from me for safety. It is so easy to press the lever and feel the primer seat. I have had no problems with it. For 9mm or 223 I use on the progressive press priming. Great video. I also just subscribed on Rumble.
I use the Frankford Arsenal multi priming tool. I can use it for every caliber I have and it is quick and easy. I have never been a fan of priming on the press, now that might all change when I start using my Hornady Lock and Load progressive press.
😄 same problem here in France. Is there still a primer shortage in USA? Here you can find some small rifle primers but it's very expensive. Almost no large rifle primers for many months.
I have several Lee presses. I enjoy priming on my ACP for large batch priming, and on my single stage and turret press for small batch priming. I do not enjoy priming on progressive presses.
Thank you so much....especially for beginners like myself this channel is so helpfull....it's really much appriciated. Warm greetings from the Netherlands 👍
I loved this series of three videos! Great job! I've reloaded rifle cartridges for many years now, and I've recently reopened The Reloading Bench after a long two year construction on our home. I'm going to use my new Lyman tumbler this time, and can't wait to get started again! I've loaded mostly 30'06, .300 Weatherby and some 375 H & H. I do prefer to do the priming on my single stage press, but I did buy an RCBS manual primer kit, but sadly haven't learned how to use it yet. And I don't have a "blast shield", guess I need to get one of these from Lyman!
I started with the Hornady Lock n Load kit, and didn't care for the hand primer, so bench primed instead. Now, I use the Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series Perfect Seat Hand Primer and love it (around $50). It has it's own shell holders, which is handy. And it has a dial on it so you can adjust the seating depth, which is awesome!
Once my specs are sorted I prime brass in batches of hundreds and a hand primer just doesn’t cut it. Bench mounted stand alone units like my RCBS excel at high volume and the feedback for a properly seated primer is a positive stop. The drop tube holds more than a cards worth but it is tedious to load. That is where a hand primer has the advantage of an attached flip tray. The “feeling” of seating a primer is subjective and therefore a non deterministic variable and as such plays no part in my process
A little bit about different brands and types of primers. Which ones to use, when and why. All CCI and Reminton primer, plus Winchester's small pistol are the safest to use in automatic priming tools. Federal burns hotter and cleaner, yet are according to the Richard Lee manual "one tough dragon to control in the automatic priming systems". Modern Reloading Second Edition Richard Lee Revised 2021, page 60: To find out why some brand primers explode violently, I talked to an expert, Dave Anderson, now retired from CCI. He told me primers are charged with one of two types of charging compound. One is called "basic" and the other is "normal." The primers that use "basic compound" must not be used in Lee Priming tools because an accidental discharge is very violent. The "normal compound" is less violent and causes little damage to the tool. The user is easily protected by safety glasses. Metallic Cartridge reloading, Robert S. L. Anderson, page 20: In the firearms industry there are two types of lead styphnate primer compounds - "normal" and "basic." There are presently four manufacturers of primers in the U.S., and all of them except one uses the normal lead styphnate primer compound. Federal is the only manufacturer that presently uses basic . The common ingredient to all small arms primers is lead styphnate of which there are several different varieties. Basically it is in crystalline form and is very explosive. Normal lead styphnate is composed of large irregular crystals, which are slightly acidic when wet, somewhat more brisant at lower temperatures (good for military use), and they burn with a cool flame at ambient temperatures. However, it is somewhat harder to get an even mix of components in normal lead styphnate primers because of the larger irregular crystals and the fact that the "mix" often requires some metallic fuels (such as powdered aluminum) to help make a magnum primer. Basic lead styphnate is composed of small regular crystals and unlike the normal mix is not as acidic and will not attack primer cups when wet. Basic lead styphnate is easier to mix than normal variety and there is no need to add metallic fuels. The basic primer flame is very hot and will easily ignite most powders and therefore Federal does not offer a magnum pistol primer. However this style primer is slightly less brisant at very low temperatures (- 20degrees F. to - 40 degrees F.) which would make normal primer more suitable for military purposes. Metallic Cartridge Reloading, All New Third Edition, M.L. McPherson, page 29: Certain brands of primers might be unsafe to use in some priming tools like Lee's AutoPrime because of the potential for mass detonation. With these tools, should an operator detonate one primer, as can happen when a handloader tries to seat one primer on top of another, the detonation subjects other primers in the tray to shock and an incandescent flash. If this shock and flash can detonate a second primer, there is the potential that most or all (perhaps 100 or more) primers in the tray might detonate en masse. Such a simultaneous detonation would be a disaster. Lee has tested all available primers and, excepting CCI and Winchester, all brands produce an unacceptable number of mass explosions when the primer being seated is forced to detonate (by heating in a remote explosion-proof box). By comparing Federal and CCI primers, we can gain some understanding why brands very in this regard. Federal primers do not have a foil covering over the primer pellet; an application of a type of paint replaces the foil. That sealant is easily ignited and highly flammable, possessing a very low kindling temperature. These are beneficial characteristics; among other things, they help reduce combustion residues. However, use of this pellet sealant makes these primers very easy to ignite. Exposure of the open front of the cup to the flash from an adjacent primer easily does the job! Conversely, CCI primers have a paper foil almost completely covering the front of the pellet. This foil deters pellet ignition because it is only moderately combustible and has a relatively high kindling temperature. A short duration flash from a primer is unlikely to ignite the foil or penetrate through it to ignite the pellet underneath.
I'd like to see some of these "reloading" videos show when things do not go correctly. Show us a primer not seating correctly, a bullet not seating correctly, a case getting stuck in the die, forgetting to trim, etc ...
Thanks for the video. What do you guys think about vacuum sealing bricks of primers for extended storage if you are lucky enough to find that many? Humidity in this old farmhouse swings between 15 to 70 % from winter to summer, will it make things better or worse for the primers to vacuum seal the bricks in air tight food grade vacuum bags? Thinking more about consistency than if they will simply just fire.. they came as benchrest primers.. want them to perform that way.
It sounds good, but I haven't ever done so. Might be an interesting long-term test to compare primers stored sealed & unsealed for a couple of years then test otherwise identical loads. Not sure I've got that much patience!
how do you put the primers in the case that holds the primers...how do you attach the holder to the handle that causes the primers to be forced into the case its self? Thank you....Richard here
I'm using a Rcbs hand primer, I've had several failure to fire with Winchester and Remington primers. None with CCI or federal primers, and that is with several different rifles. I'm told I'm not seating all the way. But the the primer can only go in as far as it bottoms out. Do you have a comment on that.
I’ve been using Hornady’s LNL but absolutely hate it! Average 2/100 not useable, another 5/100 jam the press from not being fully seated. Happens with .32,.380,9mm, .40,.45, 300 BO. Part of the problem seems to be the spring does not hold the shell firmly in place. Transitioning to my RCBS Summit. Anyone use more than 1 brand/type hand primer with a preference?
I use an RCBS hand primer tool. I prime 100s while watching TV.
Before i used to use my lee loader in the house during winter till yes a 243 primer went bang my wife the shygirl put a stop to that. as for priming after seeing Gavin show the lee bench mount i got one and i really enjoy it easy on ole arthur in me fingers, thanks from WV j.schell
I often brag about my own stupidity if it can prevent someone from getting injured, so listen to this. Over fifty years ago when I started reloading, I purchased some primers in a gun store very cheaply, There were in a small paper bag. I should have passed on this deal, since this is no way to store primers. When I got home, I figured that it would make more sense to put these primers in a more substantial container, so I put them in a glass jar. Later, I realized that if one of them had gone off, that jar would have been a fragmentation grenade! I hope others can learn from my bad mistakes.
I like the RCBS on press primer die set up.
Primer safety is no joke. I had one of the early XL650s. I had a full primer tube in the press. The one I was pressing in went off, daisy chained around the rotary wheel, igniting the 95 or so in the tube. It blew the plastic low primer warning tube through the ceiling and left me deaf in one ear for 3-4 days It was probably a month before my hearing returned to normal. In over 50,000 round reloaded, it never happened again. Always wondered what caused it. Now I ALWAYS wear hearing protection in addition to safety glasses any time I'm reloading.
I prefer to use a hand primer because I get a good feel for how the primers are seating in the case.
You left out 2 important points about priming.
1. Make sure your primer pockets are clean. If not this can prevent a primer from seating fully which may cause premature ignition. Or just as bad no ignition because the firing pin pushes the primer forward without enough force to ignite.
2. You didn’t explain to check that primers are properly seated. I visually inspect my primer depth, run a finger to check for high primers. You can also place the case on something flat like a piece of glass to see if the case rocks. If it does the primer is not set deep enough.
RCBS Universal hand primer works great!
I usually use a Lee bench prime...... I love that thing.....
Great tutorial! With your calming voice, I feel that you’re the Bob Ross of the reloading world.😅 Time to start growing the fro. Thanks again for your knowledge
I haven't seen a safety tube to go around the primer tube on a press. Must be something new.
I started out priming on the press, never liked it much. Learned about Lee hand prime tool and never looked back. Tried all Lee's hand prime tools and now use Lee's bench prime tool. Like it very much.
Well I have used the RCBS hand priming unit a lot over the years in addition to the on press tools. Lately while handloading rifle brass that had staked or crimped primers even after uniformed the primer pockets I was having damaged primers with the hand priming! So I dug out the RAM Priming setup that came with my RCBS Big Max press>
Since going to this setup I haven't had any issues utilizing this setup!
The Ram holder (shown bottom left) is fitted where the shell holder is normally placed on the press ram. The setup has two rams, one for small and one for large primers (shown in the middle).
The die (shown near the top of the picture below) actually will hold the proper shell holder for the cartridge being primed. Care needs to be taken as you adjust the die height such as the push pin inside the ram will full seat the primers.
This system is slower than hand priming, but the precision obtained priming with this setup has been very precise and positive.
The Ram Priming Unit gives reloaders better feel by seating the primer at the top of the press stroke. Reloaders can also preset a positive stop to speed the process. It works with any single-stage or turret press with 7/8-inch-14 threads and an RCBS® type single-stage shell holder. The unit includes large and small primer rod assemblies for Boxer-type rifle and pistol primers.
I use the RCBS universal hand priming tool and I'm really happy with it! Best regards from Germany.
Been using a couple of the Lee auto prime tools since the mid 1980's
Rotate the priming tool 180 degrees (lever to palm) and the primers will more naturally slide into the proper position and at the same time be facing away from your face.
That's the way I do It, it just feels more natural that way to me. I use one of the older Lee Auto Prime for all of my priming and my biggest complaint about it is that when you have Primers in it and lay it down, a primer can come out. A little slide block like on the Lyman would be nice to have.
My first experience with hand loading was also with one of those Lee all in one dies and i had a primer blow up too. Didn’t get hurt but it scared the heck out of me! Bought a single stage press the next day and never looked back! I love this series!
With respect, In the last 40 yrs of reloading all kinds of ammo have never seen a primer issue.
I had one primer a couple of weeks ago to go off when I cycled the round from the mag into the chamber.
I use an RCBS Universal hand priming tool and I like it because it does not require a shell holder to hold the case. The only problem I have ever found was when priming 45 Colt cases-the rim as those familiar with that particular case is barely there and the RCBS Universal does not sufficiently hold the case. For that cartridge, I do have an old RCBS hand priming tool which requires the shell holder and it works fine. Alternatively, I can press prime on the top of my Forster Co-Ax which does not require the shell holder. It's a pretty neat system but rather slow. I'm happy to hear you mention keeping your tools clean as a safety measure. I'm not surgical about it but I clean my dies after every use with gun scrubber or something similar followed by some rem-oil spray. As to the press itself, I wipe it down with a clean, oily rag before beginning operations on it, paying some attention to the press ram and a needle oiler for places the rag can't get to such as hinge pins, etc. Just a drop of oil will do it on the pins.
Great series. Keep it going and when basic reloading is finished hopefully there’ll be advanced reloading and in-depth load development.
I lucked out and boss turned me onto an estate auction and got 4000lg rifle…not cheap but got me started on .308…another 10k between sm rifle,pistol and recently 1000mag pistol I can stay busy when not workin awhile….I load everyday
Good video , I use a Lee bench priming tool.
Prime on my Dillon but also have used a Lee autoprime quite a bit.
Thanks, Guy 😁
I do both on and off. I use the Dillon 550C for pistol, and use the Forster co axe press and Co Axe primer seater for rifle.
Turn the hand held tool around and use your thumb on the lever, then the cases will always point away from you.
Perfect timing for something to watch on a Friday night. Great video once again Guy!
Love this series! Look forward to the other videos. All great basic info... I de-prime rifle off press but prime on my 550C. Pistol gets everything done on press. And... Guy is spot on... If you have ever touched off a primer your level of attention moving forward is 4X!
Guy is a fantastic teacher, calm and soothing 😄👍
I use the Lee Ram Prime system on the (portable) Buchanan Precision Hand Press that has the Hornady LNL quick die change bushing system. I adjust the die with the shell holder so that when the primer bottoms out the levers on the press are right at their stops. Works great, and very versatile, as I can prime cases at the dining table, in bed, on the table at the range, or even sitting on a log out in the woods.
I appreciate the demonstration. Many people just don’t realize primers can be sensitive. It’s basically a pressure sensitive explosive compound, that you must press into the base of the shell. They also touched on the difference between standard and magnum primers.
I personally prefer the off press primer. Lee, Lyman, RCBS, and others offer their version. My version I’m using does not use the base holder like Lyman’s does, pick one you prefer. Alway remember to keep shells pointed in a safe direction.
I always prime cases in the press, manually one at a time, and with a die installed. I have seen a primer explode using a hand priming tool, thankfully no one was injured. A plus with using a press is I have never had a primer seated too shallow, where I need to re-squeeze or re-set it to the correct depth. Great safety tips.
I use a Lee hand primer. I like it. I’ve had primers somehow end up upside down and even sideways. But so far none have gone off
My buddy and I was curious one day about how much power a primer has. We took 5 .410 shotgun shells, emptied the pellets and powder from them. We took just the wad and put back in the empty hull, went outside and fired it. It shot the hull a good distance. We then took some 20oz water bottles and set them up. With just the primer behind the wad it still had more than enough power to knock water bottles over from 10 feet.
I've had one primer go off.
I load about 3000 rounds a year. It was due to the crimp not being completely removed on a 223. I glance at the primer to see that it is not upside-down as I begin to squeeze, then slide the shell on and point it away from me. Fortunately, that routine saved me from injury. I currently hand prime with an RCBS. I'm looking at moving to Frankfort Arsenals' perfect seater as it is adjustable for depth.
I like the lee hand primer tool it works well very similar to the Lyman
Something not mentioned is to run your finger over the seated primer to make sure it’s flush with the surface. It’s easy to feel if it isn’t.
great series, keep them coming!
I've done it all ways, but now I mostly hand prime with an ancient Lee Auto Prime. Still perfect priming after 40+ years.
I use the same Lyman Press for loading and priming. I bought a extra primer setup so I don’t have to change cups from Large and small primers.
Hand held foster primer. Works extremely well. Use for both rifle and pistol priming.
I'm using 21 century hand primer, but I'm looking at getting the primal right unit .
I do more hand held priming while watching TV, some on my single stage press. Haven’t tried my used progressive press yet (Lee 1000)
I started with a Lee handpress. I had a bad time, I kept crushing primers. And I bent the lever. Then I rebuilt it. That only worked so long. I never really used the press mounted one. I went to the RCBS handpress and that worked for years. Now I use a RCBS bench mounted priming tool for match loads and that I think does a much better job.
I have primed with the press and several hand primers, but the Sinclair hand primer is my favorite. Next, the Hornady. I was mentored by a gentleman who took everything seriously when reloading and priming cases for the same consistency as one would for bullet seating depths may seem anal, I just consider it the joy of reloading.
I've been using the RCBS Automatic priming tool for a few years now and I really like it. I have tried the Lee and RCBS hand priming tools, but they make my hands tried after a bit of use. I had terrible luck using the new Lee bench priming tool. I just couldn't get it to work for me and I finally just got rid of it.
I’m a total nubee to reloading and am using the Lee classic setup where you hammer the primers in with a rod in a die, definitely seems dangerous, been expecting one to go off but so far so good.
For my .308, I use the Lee Auto Bench Prime. I saw it demonstrated on this channel by Gavin. It works great and is easily pointed 90 degrees away from me for safety. It is so easy to press the lever and feel the primer seat. I have had no problems with it. For 9mm or 223 I use on the progressive press priming. Great video. I also just subscribed on Rumble.
I use the Frankford Arsenal multi priming tool. I can use it for every caliber I have and it is quick and easy. I have never been a fan of priming on the press, now that might all change when I start using my Hornady Lock and Load progressive press.
Step 1: find primers lmao
FACTS!!!
😄 same problem here in France. Is there still a primer shortage in USA? Here you can find some small rifle primers but it's very expensive. Almost no large rifle primers for many months.
LMFAO 😂
No problem finding primers. I had a small surplus before the shortage and have been able to keep my supply topped off.
😂
Very nice, Guy!
I have a half a dozen ways I can prime. The best is the Frankford Arsenal Perfect Seat!
I use the RCBS hand priming tool. It works really well.
I use the Forster bench primer seater co-ax.
I like it better than the Lyman EZ-Prime that
I have.
That Forster bench primer seater is a great tool!
Very hard to find primers here in Australia at the moment. And when you can they are way too costly.
Yes, primers have been tough to get.
Same here in the US hopefully it will change in the near future.
I have several Lee presses. I enjoy priming on my ACP for large batch priming, and on my single stage and turret press for small batch priming.
I do not enjoy priming on progressive presses.
Thank you so much....especially for beginners like myself this channel is so helpfull....it's really much appriciated.
Warm greetings from the Netherlands 👍
I loved this series of three videos! Great job! I've reloaded rifle cartridges for many years now, and I've recently reopened The Reloading Bench after a long two year construction on our home. I'm going to use my new Lyman tumbler this time, and can't wait to get started again! I've loaded mostly 30'06, .300 Weatherby and some 375 H & H. I do prefer to do the priming on my single stage press, but I did buy an RCBS manual primer kit, but sadly haven't learned how to use it yet. And I don't have a "blast shield", guess I need to get one of these from Lyman!
Love those series! Thanks guys
Any secrets for finding primers at a reasonable price??? 🥺
I started with the Hornady Lock n Load kit, and didn't care for the hand primer, so bench primed instead. Now, I use the Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series Perfect Seat Hand Primer and love it (around $50). It has it's own shell holders, which is handy. And it has a dial on it so you can adjust the seating depth, which is awesome!
I use the RCBS Bench primer tool. Very simple and accurate.
Once my specs are sorted I prime brass in batches of hundreds and a hand primer just doesn’t cut it. Bench mounted stand alone units like my RCBS excel at high volume and the feedback for a properly seated primer is a positive stop. The drop tube holds more than a cards worth but it is tedious to load. That is where a hand primer has the advantage of an attached flip tray. The “feeling” of seating a primer is subjective and therefore a non deterministic variable and as such plays no part in my process
What we need is instructions on where to acquire primers for our reloading. The video was very well done though.
Primers are tough to get these days, you're right.
A little bit about different brands and types of primers.
Which ones to use, when and why.
All CCI and Reminton primer, plus Winchester's small pistol are the safest to use in automatic priming tools.
Federal burns hotter and cleaner, yet are according to the Richard Lee manual "one tough dragon to control in the automatic priming systems".
Modern Reloading Second Edition Richard Lee Revised 2021, page 60:
To find out why some brand primers explode violently, I talked to an expert, Dave Anderson, now retired from CCI. He told me primers are charged with one of two types of charging compound. One is called "basic" and the other is "normal." The primers that use "basic compound" must not be used in Lee Priming tools because an accidental discharge is very violent. The "normal compound" is less violent and causes little damage to the tool. The user is easily protected by safety glasses.
Metallic Cartridge reloading, Robert S. L. Anderson, page 20:
In the firearms industry there are two types of lead styphnate primer compounds - "normal" and "basic." There are presently four manufacturers of primers in the U.S., and all of them except one uses the normal lead styphnate primer compound. Federal is the only manufacturer that presently uses basic . The common ingredient to all small arms primers is lead styphnate of which there are several different varieties. Basically it is in crystalline form and is very explosive. Normal lead styphnate is composed of large irregular crystals, which are slightly acidic when wet, somewhat more brisant at lower temperatures (good for military use), and they burn with a cool flame at ambient temperatures. However, it is somewhat harder to get an even mix of components in normal lead styphnate primers because of the larger irregular crystals and the fact that the "mix" often requires some metallic fuels (such as powdered aluminum) to help make a magnum primer. Basic lead styphnate is composed of small regular crystals and unlike the normal mix is not as acidic and will not attack primer cups when wet. Basic lead styphnate is easier to mix than normal variety and there is no need to add metallic fuels. The basic primer flame is very hot and will easily ignite most powders and therefore Federal does not offer a magnum pistol primer. However this style primer is slightly less brisant at very low temperatures (- 20degrees F. to - 40 degrees F.) which would make normal primer more suitable for military purposes.
Metallic Cartridge Reloading, All New Third Edition, M.L. McPherson, page 29:
Certain brands of primers might be unsafe to use in some priming tools like Lee's AutoPrime because of the potential for mass detonation. With these tools, should an operator detonate one primer, as can happen when a handloader tries to seat one primer on top of another, the detonation subjects other primers in the tray to shock and an incandescent flash. If this shock and flash can detonate a second primer, there is the potential that most or all (perhaps 100 or more) primers in the tray might detonate en masse. Such a simultaneous detonation would be a disaster. Lee has tested all available primers and, excepting CCI and Winchester, all brands produce an unacceptable number of mass explosions when the primer being seated is forced to detonate (by heating in a remote explosion-proof box). By comparing Federal and CCI primers, we can gain some understanding why brands very in this regard. Federal primers do not have a foil covering over the primer pellet; an application of a type of paint replaces the foil. That sealant is easily ignited and highly flammable, possessing a very low kindling temperature. These are beneficial characteristics; among other things, they help reduce combustion residues. However, use of this pellet sealant makes these primers very easy to ignite. Exposure of the open front of the cup to the flash from an adjacent primer easily does the job! Conversely, CCI primers have a paper foil almost completely covering the front of the pellet. This foil deters pellet ignition because it is only moderately combustible and has a relatively high kindling temperature. A short duration flash from a primer is unlikely to ignite the foil or penetrate through it to ignite the pellet underneath.
Love this entire series! Thank you!
I use a Lee bench primer tool.
I'd like to see some of these "reloading" videos show when things do not go correctly.
Show us a primer not seating correctly, a bullet not seating correctly, a case getting stuck in the die, forgetting to trim, etc ...
Thanks for the video. What do you guys think about vacuum sealing bricks of primers for extended storage if you are lucky enough to find that many? Humidity in this old farmhouse swings between 15 to 70 % from winter to summer, will it make things better or worse for the primers to vacuum seal the bricks in air tight food grade vacuum bags? Thinking more about consistency than if they will simply just fire.. they came as benchrest primers.. want them to perform that way.
It sounds good, but I haven't ever done so. Might be an interesting long-term test to compare primers stored sealed & unsealed for a couple of years then test otherwise identical loads. Not sure I've got that much patience!
Thanks for the video. But you can't use what you can't find to purchase 🤷 😕 they just aren't selling LG rifle primers
Looking forward to when Guy Miner narrates a bedtime story book
I prefer using my press I feel like my handheld doesn’t get them as deep and as consistent as the press does
I'm using a primal rights primer
Hello guy, were is gavin...thanks for teaching again
Midsouth has srp. Right now just to let everyone know..
primers, primers how about send a couple million down to australia.....we carnt get them at all.
how do you put the primers in the case that holds the primers...how do you attach the holder to the handle that causes the primers to be forced into the case its self? Thank you....Richard here
I'm using a Rcbs hand primer, I've had several failure to fire with Winchester and Remington primers. None with CCI or federal primers, and that is with several different rifles. I'm told I'm not seating all the way. But the the primer can only go in as far as it bottoms out. Do you have a comment on that.
Sir I believe you forgot your safety glasses 😂
Hand priming seems to go faster.
I’ve been using Hornady’s LNL but absolutely hate it! Average 2/100 not useable, another 5/100 jam the press from not being fully seated. Happens with .32,.380,9mm, .40,.45, 300 BO. Part of the problem seems to be the spring does not hold the shell firmly in place. Transitioning to my RCBS Summit. Anyone use more than 1 brand/type hand primer with a preference?
on press
😁😆😄👍‼️
I can’t stand the primer system on the Lyman press.
I can't bear seeing you wasting all these primers 🤦
I'm assuming you're referring to when he's doing the demonstration with his revolver but it's to prove a very crucial safety point
EXCELLENT EDUCATION !! THANKS !!!
Try to not to get slept by a half of this byo-byo annoying show.