One tip that has helped me while hunting in constant rain (or falling down in medium sized rivers) is to vacuum pack my ammo in magazine sized portions (3-5 rounds). Use the same equipment that you already have for packing meat.
I have been loading for about 15 years and the one thing I consistently find keeps bullets at proper depth and OAL consistent is the use of crimps. I won't crimp a rifle necessarily that is for bench shooting, but for my .45-70 and other hunting guns, every round is crimped lightly. It's easy to over crimp, so I am cautious and approach the crimp depth slowly. It makes for very accurate ammo and in autoloading pistols especially, it's a requirement for me. I was having lots of issues when I first started loading .45 ACP and I found the Lee FCD and have never had any feeding issues since. Just don't overcrimp.
Nice video, the first thing I do is check possible powders, components for the hunt ahead. The biggie is when seating the bullets to get the gun and measure the bullet at its longest TO FIT THE MAGAZINE, minus 35/thousandts
I defiantly learned the hard way, Did a goat and pig hunt i neck sized only my brass, and didn't try it in my gun. Got to the property had trouble chambering my rounds not only that the rounds were on the hot side and we had hot weather i was using IMR 4320 and got a few flatten primers and trashed brass. I now FL 3 thousands on hunting loads and load for accuracy not speed.
Been reloading for 15 years or so and am still learning. Thanks so much for your videos. I learn and am reminded of things in the process that need to be considered.
I am really really loving, Guy Miner on Ultimate Reloader. This is more of how I was raised to reload. We practice with 22Lr rifles or even the kids' pellet guns. Starting in Middle School I joined a NRA sponsored shooting club where we would shoot in the school's gym using peep sights on 22 cal Olympic style rifles. I have been shooting. 22lr single shot since I was 8yrs old a Christmas gift. Even being in the Army shooting Rifles M21 M24 50cal ect. We like practicing on cheap ammo.
Good discussion. I have hand loaded since the late 70s because it was hard to find 6mm Rem ammo. I started with a little Lee loader and it worked great. I eventually progressed to a Rock Chucker and have never regretted starting down the hand loading road. Tailoring loads to the firearm is the only way to go, IMO.
I do a lot of hunting in southwest Georgia and I’ve shot deer from 40 yards out to 500 yards mostly with a Ruger American predator in a magpul chassis. It’s a tack driver and with my Vortex PST gen 2 and the 143 ELDX over H4350, I’m completely comfortable taking shots out to 800. I also use a 25-06 loaded with 117 sst and have killed a deer at 440 with it. I do most of my loading on a RCBS rock chucker but I also use a Lyman turret press. Thank you guys for all the amazing content
Sadly in my 60+ years of reloading, I have made most of the mistakes…at least once! My worst case was my first trip to Africa where my 300 WM became a single shot because the dies did not crimp properly. All very valid points. Thanks for the reminders!
Man I'm so glad I watched this! I feel like Mr Magoo just God and luck been 🤞 keeping me alive this far into being a reloader. I'm so glad I found your channel when I did every episode has been good and full of important info!
Gavin thanks and like the direction to have the old timer spread their knowledge and experience. It can be hard to find a good mentor. me being an outdoorsman, I have one guy I know that reloads and his is at the out fridge of the circle. I am just getting into it. still more focused on being comfortable with my equipment. Having some really good channels has keep me patient with easing into the process. My end goal is consistency and
Great video guys! I always anneal trim, deburr and chamfer hunting brass each reloading to ensure no case head separation and consistent neck tension. Keep up the videos!
The only case head seps you will get is with worn out brass. My hunting loads are virgin or once fired depending on the gun. After that the shells are for plinking.
For all the calibers I load I start with clean and trimmed brass, full length resize, pick the proper powder and bullet, prime with magnum primers (it get's cold out there), carefully assemble the rounds and crimp with a Lee Factory Crimp die (ONLY). I load at least 100 and test before the season and after range time I don't clean, just a pass with a Bore Snake with a touch of CLP on the end. That first cold bore shot is always on target.
Greetings from a few hours north of you both, lots of good information there, well done. When I'm loading hunting ammo, the sized cases get sorted by running through the rifle first, then the loaded ones are each run through at least two times before they go into the "take hunting" boxes. Learned that all the hard way of course. Good hunting all.
Looking to start reloading again, and forgot how much I had forgot. Its great that through youtube I can gleen some of you guys immense insight on the topic. Although as an aught six fan what I wouldnt give to pick Guys brain for a while to get restarted.
This is honestly the best channel for reloading hands down, there are also some good podcasts from Hornady and the back country hunting podcast has a few reloading ones
Johnnys reloading bench is another good one. If you want more in depth how to’s go to Gus playlists pic a caliber and start from the beginning of that calibers videos.
@@captaincripple7218 thanks - mostly going to be doing 6.5 PRC hunting ammo, but also 9mm and 10mm handgun. Maybe eventually .32 win special, because that's getting really hard to find but I also don't shoot it often.
Wow. That is so good. All the options of components covered. Perhaps a mention of the need to check pressures and use a chronograph would add to the quality of an already great video. Cheers.
Thank you for this video, great info for the hunter/reloader, I'd really like to see what components Guy would use for reloading the 6.8 western for elk hunting.
Clean/wipe - Size - Clean(remove lube) - Chamber - Prime - load. This is the way i start and it was due to like someone has said below rounds not chambering, but this was a comp and i was lucky I had a spare batch for practice/warming with me. As for Dummy rounds I use old cases and drill out the primer pocket and once i get the right seating turn it round and fill it with epoxy leave it bullet down over night engrave bullet and seat details and you can then use that to set your seating dies up by just gentle screwing the die down until it just touches the round.
I’ve got a great load with 130 grain OTM Bergers for 6.5 Creedmoor with Superformance powder. Tennessee has pretty big temp swings so I need to confirm zero at different temps.
I always start with the proper bullet. I hunt whitetails and hogs. I've found a Sierra bullet that has performed very well over the years and I stick with it. The load has proven itself to be accurate and effective on Game. I shoot a bolt rifle and full length size, bump the shoulder back .002 but don't crimp. I'll pay attention to length and trim as needed. I don't anneal. I get 3 or 4 firings on the cases without any problems. Bottom line is I know this load and have all the confidence in it. Thanks for sharing this information. Stay well and God Bless.
I have used fingernail polish for threads and primers for years.....all my scopes have a drop of nail polish on all screws. Not too hard to get loose of you need to but it doesn't back out at all...not like i am shooing a 450 win mag. I full length size hunting ammo...except for single shot rifles...I just bump the shoulder. Feeding isn't as much an issue and it does help with headspace in say my TC Contenders with reloads and once fired or more brass. Bolt guns and semis get full length.
Another great Video, hit the nail on the head for hunting rounds, especially making sure the rounds cycle! Hey whatever happened to Travis, haven't seen him for awhile
I load lots of different bullets and powder charges for many of my firearms. Sometimes if I'm not careful it may be easy to mix ammo and not be able to identify it. I have learned to mark the head of each case with a marker using different colors and different patterns and I also place that mark on each load label. This works real well especially for my .357 loads because identifying a 140 grain bullet from a 158 grain bullet is not easy unless you carry your scales.
This channel seems perfect to test something I’m sure many guys wonder about…. Does working up truly precision ammo make a difference in “typical” factory rifles? Using FL die sets vs bushing dies, precision priming, Lapua brass vs REM Win Hornady etc… Will all the “extra” work matter in standard barrels. Will a precision rifle shoot factory ammo better than custom tuned ammo in a factory gun.. if this has been tested on video, in haven’t seen it.
I'm a big fan of the wiser precision quick stix system. It takes a thing I was going to have with me anyway and gives it another function that it is very good at.
This is my first year using my hand loads for hunting. Along with accuracy, COAL, etc., I am thinking about consistency with speed and knowing that speed. I will be using a ballistic calculator and I need to know that velocity to get a correct solution. Thanks for the video.
The advent of the laser range finder made every rifle a long range cartridge if you know the bullet speed of your cartridge. Know the ballistics of the rifle you are using. I've been using reloads for over 50 years and about the only reason I buy factory ammo is the acquire the brass.
One thing I have heard about COAL was even though they magazine feed them while testing and load them long was reliability of feeding. Some had failure to feeds... in a bolt gun.
Great job but I think that you guys forgot to mention the twist rate within a rifle barrel for best results .and then some rifles like a tikka don't permit for longer bullets within the magazine but has the rifling to do so .the factory magazines need a slight adjustment to accommodate for the longer bullet tips based on the 223 model with a 1 in 8 inch twist in which is usually for a heavier bullet ! But that's like most firearms made with flaws and have to be ironed out !
Check the loose nut working the lever on the reloading machine. Run every round through magazine and chamber in front of the bolt. Make 100 rounds shoot 60 on a range selected randomly. Have fun
I agree with a lot of what y’all are saying but a 7 mag doesn’t need a magnum primer also crimping which everyone has different preference but crimping will help lower SD due to more uniform pressures there are lots of variables and everyone has their own preference just my 2 cents
Having the knowledge, skill, and many components have made it possible for me to own and use firearms the manufacturers have pretty much abandoned making ammo for. It has become a new thing with firearms manufacturers to create new sales by only making ammo for their new calibers. Planned to be obsolete.
When I reload hunting ammo, I am usually looking for accuracy first. Small group as possible. If I have two small groups and one is faster then I usually take the faster group. But accuracy first, a fast miss is still a miss.
Interesting discussion, always learn something from your videos. I have been reloading since the mid 80's and am facing new problems these days due to supply shortages. Used to use H4895 for both my 38-55 and my 35 Rem. I switched to H322 for my 38-55 and am very happy with the results. On the other hand I don't know if Tac would be a good choice for 220 grain bullet's in my 35 Rem?
Here is my criteria for any load that will be loaded for actually hunting ,, A powder choice that is on the faster end of burn rate for the load and caliber,,especially for semiautomatics Full length sized ,,that’s at least three thousands shoulder bump,,because someone might use your ammo in a different rifle Choice of bullet that has been proven to preform well in your particular rifle and on the game you are hunting I always clean and prep flash holes and primer pockets so that the primer seats below flush I always go out to a safe spot and chamber every round , one at a time ,,to make absolutely sure that there are no chambering problems,,even in semiautomatic or bolt guns.
As an old Artilleryman, wet propellant will give you an undesirable pressure spike further down the bore. Reference FM 6-40. Please don't test that without safety procedures like firing with a lanyard.
At 8:25, try not to have parts of you that you care about over the case mouth while priming. The likelihood of a primer detonation while being pressed in is low, but the consequences can be painful.
For target shooting its only about bullet accuracy. For hunting it's only about bullet function. Hyper accuracy is silly in hunting cuz one inch either way isn't relevant unless prairie dogs etc.
I noticed in one of your videos here that you were loading one cartridge at a time. Wouldn't you want to use the magazine to know they will feed properly in the field?
Hey Gavin, I have not yet watched the video yet, and I have it paused at 2 seconds in. I noticed on the rifle that is in the picture there, the bell of that Leupold scope is extremely close to the barrel of the rifle. I've wondered if you have ever looked into something like this and made sure that the bell of the scope is not contacting the rifle during a firing. With all of the substantial recoil and vibration going on, my fear is the scope making contact, causing accuracy and even scope malfunction issues? Maybe that's a video for the future with your high speed camera??
When it comes to hunting loads I load them like my precision ammo. Best velocity and accuracy as I can get. I don’t change my process. I do the same thing every time.
Now days everyone seams to want the ceracoat or some coating on a hunting rifle but that won’t protect the inside of the barrel or the wear surfaces in the action? I believe a serious all weather rifle should be stainless.
For me, my hunting ammo is treated like competition ammo. There's no difference in my humble opinion. In fact, maybe even more so because it's intended to end the life of God's creatures. All the factors y'all mentioned are also considerations, but when it comes to acceptable accuracy for a hunting rifle it must shoot 1/2 MOA or less, and honestly I wouldn't be happy with 1/2 MOA most of the time. I battled for a couple months one time to get a rifle from 3/8 to 1/4 MOA, and I did. Why put myself through the torture? It all comes down confidence. I fully believe confidence in one's equipment is worth the effort. All hunting rifles and comp guns have a 1.5lb trigger, all shoulders are bumped 2k, all cases are annealed every firing, and so much more. They are even sorted, brass and bullets, to find the least consistent links in the chain. Once sorted, the scrub stuff gets test to at least 600, and if doest perform it's gone; usually, about a 15% attrition rate. Since switching to Alpha brass though, even my 15% attrition is making the cut. There's so much more to talk about, but that's my general for hunting ammo.
Really, it sounds like you're just talking about building precision loads. Know the OAL which your magazine will fit, then build the best possible round that will fit within that OAL. The question then is did you build your round when it was 90 degrees out, but you're hunting in 20 degrees? Even Varget won't produce the same pressure at those extremes. So you need to test that round in the same environment you're going to hunt in, WITH the rifle you're going to hunt with.
@@bigeclipse718 I solely use Varget for 308 rounds. Despite "temp stable powders", they are not exactly the same from 90 degrees to 20 degrees. Yes they're a lot better than using something like TAC, but it is not exactly the same. I've shot thousands of rounds with Varget (I currently have over 30lbs because it is my "beloved" powder) and the difference between .5" groups and .9" groups at 100y is 2 10ths of a grain when you're talking such drastic temp differences. With a less stable powder, that difference is more like 3 MOA, but it's a difference none-the-less.
That's because you did not find a velocity node my friend. I competition shoot all year long out to 1 mile. You need to do research about velocity nodes.
One tip that has helped me while hunting in constant rain (or falling down in medium sized rivers) is to vacuum pack my ammo in magazine sized portions (3-5 rounds). Use the same equipment that you already have for packing meat.
I do that for waterfowl ammo sometimes. Put about 6 rounds in each
I have been loading for about 15 years and the one thing I consistently find keeps bullets at proper depth and OAL consistent is the use of crimps. I won't crimp a rifle necessarily that is for bench shooting, but for my .45-70 and other hunting guns, every round is crimped lightly. It's easy to over crimp, so I am cautious and approach the crimp depth slowly. It makes for very accurate ammo and in autoloading pistols especially, it's a requirement for me. I was having lots of issues when I first started loading .45 ACP and I found the Lee FCD and have never had any feeding issues since. Just don't overcrimp.
Nice video, the first thing I do is check possible powders, components for the hunt ahead.
The biggie is when seating the bullets to get the gun and measure the bullet at its longest TO FIT THE MAGAZINE, minus 35/thousandts
I defiantly learned the hard way,
Did a goat and pig hunt i neck sized only my brass, and didn't try it in my gun.
Got to the property had trouble chambering my rounds not only that the rounds were on the hot side and we had hot weather i was using IMR 4320 and got a few flatten primers and trashed brass.
I now FL 3 thousands on hunting loads and load for accuracy not speed.
Been reloading for 15 years or so and am still learning. Thanks so much for your videos. I learn and am reminded of things in the process that need to be considered.
I am really really loving, Guy Miner on Ultimate Reloader. This is more of how I was raised to reload. We practice with 22Lr rifles or even the kids' pellet guns. Starting in Middle School I joined a NRA sponsored shooting club where we would shoot in the school's gym using peep sights on 22 cal Olympic style rifles. I have been shooting. 22lr single shot since I was 8yrs old a Christmas gift. Even being in the Army shooting Rifles M21 M24 50cal ect. We like practicing on cheap ammo.
Good discussion. I have hand loaded since the late 70s because it was hard to find 6mm Rem ammo. I started with a little Lee loader and it worked great. I eventually progressed to a Rock Chucker and have never regretted starting down the hand loading road. Tailoring loads to the firearm is the only way to go, IMO.
Nice cartridge, 7400-6mm is my rig.
I've also been loading the 6mm Remington since the 1970's. Great for varmints, coyotes and deer.
I do a lot of hunting in southwest Georgia and I’ve shot deer from 40 yards out to 500 yards mostly with a Ruger American predator in a magpul chassis. It’s a tack driver and with my Vortex PST gen 2 and the 143 ELDX over H4350, I’m completely comfortable taking shots out to 800. I also use a 25-06 loaded with 117 sst and have killed a deer at 440 with it. I do most of my loading on a RCBS rock chucker but I also use a Lyman turret press. Thank you guys for all the amazing content
Sadly in my 60+ years of reloading, I have made most of the mistakes…at least once! My worst case was my first trip to Africa where my 300 WM became a single shot because the dies did not crimp properly.
All very valid points. Thanks for the reminders!
Man I'm so glad I watched this! I feel like Mr Magoo just God and luck been 🤞 keeping me alive this far into being a reloader. I'm so glad I found your channel when I did every episode has been good and full of important info!
Gavin thanks and like the direction to have the old timer spread their knowledge and experience. It can be hard to find a good mentor. me being an outdoorsman, I have one guy I know that reloads and his is at the out fridge of the circle. I am just getting into it. still more focused on being comfortable with my equipment. Having some really good channels has keep me patient with easing into the process. My end goal is consistency and
Great video guys! I always anneal trim, deburr and chamfer hunting brass each reloading to ensure no case head separation and consistent neck tension.
Keep up the videos!
The only case head seps you will get is with worn out brass. My hunting loads are virgin or once fired depending on the gun. After that the shells are for plinking.
For all the calibers I load I start with clean and trimmed brass, full length resize, pick the proper powder and bullet, prime with magnum primers (it get's cold out there), carefully assemble the rounds and crimp with a Lee Factory Crimp die (ONLY). I load at least 100 and test before the season and after range time I don't clean, just a pass with a Bore Snake with a touch of CLP on the end. That first cold bore shot is always on target.
I lightly crimp all my rounds. LEE only. Can adjust so nicely and view from the top for precision.
Greetings from a few hours north of you both, lots of good information there, well done. When I'm loading hunting ammo, the sized cases get sorted by running through the rifle first, then the loaded ones are each run through at least two times before they go into the "take hunting" boxes. Learned that all the hard way of course. Good hunting all.
Good night fellas I'm tired as heck, thanks again for all of what you teach
Looking to start reloading again, and forgot how much I had forgot. Its great that through youtube I can gleen some of you guys immense insight on the topic. Although as an aught six fan what I wouldnt give to pick Guys brain for a while to get restarted.
Just getting started on my reloading journey - your channel and website have been by far the most helpful.
This is honestly the best channel for reloading hands down, there are also some good podcasts from Hornady and the back country hunting podcast has a few reloading ones
Check out Eric cortina’s channel too
Check out Eric cortina’s channel too
Johnnys reloading bench is another good one. If you want more in depth how to’s go to Gus playlists pic a caliber and start from the beginning of that calibers videos.
@@captaincripple7218 thanks - mostly going to be doing 6.5 PRC hunting ammo, but also 9mm and 10mm handgun. Maybe eventually .32 win special, because that's getting really hard to find but I also don't shoot it often.
Wow. That is so good. All the options of components covered. Perhaps a mention of the need to check pressures and use a chronograph would add to the quality of an already great video.
Cheers.
Thank you for this video, great info for the hunter/reloader, I'd really like to see what components Guy would use for reloading the 6.8 western for elk hunting.
Clean/wipe - Size - Clean(remove lube) - Chamber - Prime - load. This is the way i start and it was due to like someone has said below rounds not chambering, but this was a comp and i was lucky I had a spare batch for practice/warming with me. As for Dummy rounds I use old cases and drill out the primer pocket and once i get the right seating turn it round and fill it with epoxy leave it bullet down over night engrave bullet and seat details and you can then use that to set your seating dies up by just gentle screwing the die down until it just touches the round.
I’ve got a great load with 130 grain OTM Bergers for 6.5 Creedmoor with Superformance powder. Tennessee has pretty big temp swings so I need to confirm zero at different temps.
Unless Tennessee goes from -10 to 100, I would say that PA has larger temperature variations... all the same.
Loading up some 300 blk and 44 mag all copper loads with n110 this weekend. Thanks for the video gentleman!!!
I always start with the proper bullet. I hunt whitetails and hogs. I've found a Sierra bullet that has performed very well over the years and I stick with it. The load has proven itself to be accurate and effective on Game. I shoot a bolt rifle and full length size, bump the shoulder back .002 but don't crimp. I'll pay attention to length and trim as needed. I don't anneal. I get 3 or 4 firings on the cases without any problems. Bottom line is I know this load and have all the confidence in it. Thanks for sharing this information. Stay well and God Bless.
I used nail polish to keep screws in place in auto instruments and yes even the manufacturers used it on the older model cars and trucks. Works great!
Just loaded my first hunting ammo but have been handlloading for years. Test for reliability and acceptable accuracy
Great video as always guys! Thanks for all the pointers and best of luck to everyone this year on the hunt!
I have used fingernail polish for threads and primers for years.....all my scopes have a drop of nail polish on all screws. Not too hard to get loose of you need to but it doesn't back out at all...not like i am shooing a 450 win mag. I full length size hunting ammo...except for single shot rifles...I just bump the shoulder. Feeding isn't as much an issue and it does help with headspace in say my TC Contenders with reloads and once fired or more brass. Bolt guns and semis get full length.
Another great Video, hit the nail on the head for hunting rounds, especially making sure the rounds cycle! Hey whatever happened to Travis, haven't seen him for awhile
I load lots of different bullets and powder charges for many of my firearms. Sometimes if I'm not careful it may be easy to mix ammo and not be able to identify it. I have learned to mark the head of each case with a marker using different colors and different patterns and I also place that mark on each load label. This works real well especially for my .357 loads because identifying a 140 grain bullet from a 158 grain bullet is not easy unless you carry your scales.
Good stuff guys. How about doing one on the .257 Roberts?
Love the show keep up the awsome content !
Thanks, lots more coming!
So glad I found you guys in yt...always learn something
This channel seems perfect to test something I’m sure many guys wonder about….
Does working up truly precision ammo make a difference in “typical” factory rifles? Using FL die sets vs bushing dies, precision priming, Lapua brass vs REM Win Hornady etc… Will all the “extra” work matter in standard barrels. Will a precision rifle shoot factory ammo better than custom tuned ammo in a factory gun.. if this has been tested on video, in haven’t seen it.
Really looking forward to a wet amp test!
Great video. Rifle rests are also important to the overall shooting system. Perhaps a video on that would be great too.
I'm a big fan of the wiser precision quick stix system. It takes a thing I was going to have with me anyway and gives it another function that it is very good at.
This is my first year using my hand loads for hunting. Along with accuracy, COAL, etc., I am thinking about consistency with speed and knowing that speed. I will be using a ballistic calculator and I need to know that velocity to get a correct solution.
Thanks for the video.
The advent of the laser range finder made every rifle a long range cartridge if you know the bullet speed of your cartridge. Know the ballistics of the rifle you are using. I've been using reloads for over 50 years and about the only reason I buy factory ammo is the acquire the brass.
Always enjoy listening to Guy and all the knowledge he has to share. Great work!
One thing I have heard about COAL was even though they magazine feed them while testing and load them long was reliability of feeding. Some had failure to feeds... in a bolt gun.
Great job but I think that you guys forgot to mention the twist rate within a rifle barrel for best results .and then some rifles like a tikka don't permit for longer bullets within the magazine but has the rifling to do so .the factory magazines need a slight adjustment to accommodate for the longer bullet tips based on the 223 model with a 1 in 8 inch twist in which is usually for a heavier bullet ! But that's like most firearms made with flaws and have to be ironed out !
Check the loose nut working the lever on the reloading machine. Run every round through magazine and chamber in front of the bolt. Make 100 rounds shoot 60 on a range selected randomly.
Have fun
Forgot one thing crimp the case one thing not to worry about.
Just loaded 25/06 and 7mmRemMag this morning. Both like the bullets .010 off rifling. Does this sound to tight? Thank for the awesome content!!
I agree with a lot of what y’all are saying but a 7 mag doesn’t need a magnum primer also crimping which everyone has different preference but crimping will help lower SD due to more uniform pressures there are lots of variables and everyone has their own preference just my 2 cents
I enjoy Guy's field experience. He's knows a bunch because he's seen a bunch.
Having the knowledge, skill, and many components have made it possible for me to own and use firearms the manufacturers have pretty much abandoned making ammo for. It has become a new thing with firearms manufacturers to create new sales by only making ammo for their new calibers. Planned to be obsolete.
Tighter neck tension, hunting purposed bullets,hodgdon ectreme powders, and BANG...
🙋🏻♂️⭐️ULTIMATE RELOADER Did the ammo in the creek ever fire?
When I reload hunting ammo, I am usually looking for accuracy first. Small group as possible. If I have two small groups and one is faster then I usually take the faster group. But accuracy first, a fast miss is still a miss.
I also deburr/chamfer the inside of my primer flash holes if it's new brass. seems to help a bit with SD's
Just got the challenger kit 🎉 rootin tootin and ready for shootin
enjoy
Great video gentlemen keep up the good content!
Do you ever plan on hosting a reloading class or workshop?
Interesting discussion, always learn something from your videos. I have been reloading since the mid 80's and am facing new problems these days due to supply shortages. Used to use H4895 for both my 38-55 and my 35 Rem. I switched to H322 for my 38-55 and am very happy with the results. On the other hand I don't know if Tac would be a good choice for 220 grain bullet's in my 35 Rem?
Here is my criteria for any load that will be loaded for actually hunting ,,
A powder choice that is on the faster end of burn rate for the load and caliber,,especially for semiautomatics
Full length sized ,,that’s at least three thousands shoulder bump,,because someone might use your ammo in a different rifle
Choice of bullet that has been proven to preform well in your particular rifle and on the game you are hunting
I always clean and prep flash holes and primer pockets so that the primer seats below flush
I always go out to a safe spot and chamber every round , one at a time ,,to make absolutely sure that there are no chambering problems,,even in semiautomatic or bolt guns.
I set my 223 at 2.383 and they sometimes get bound up in the magazine.
Thanks for the video.
As an old Artilleryman, wet propellant will give you an undesirable pressure spike further down the bore. Reference FM 6-40. Please don't test that without safety procedures like firing with a lanyard.
At 8:25, try not to have parts of you that you care about over the case mouth while priming. The likelihood of a primer detonation while being pressed in is low, but the consequences can be painful.
Great video, What brand of bipod is mounted on that Bergara?
For my hunting ammo I usually nickel plate my brass and use clear fingernail polish on the primers. .004 neck tension so no need to seal bullets
do you plate it yourself?
@@GunFunZS yes
I am kinda new to the reloading and Long range shooting world, and I am wondering how good is IMR 3031 for 308 win ?
Great tips!
For target shooting its only about bullet accuracy. For hunting it's only about bullet function. Hyper accuracy is silly in hunting cuz one inch either way isn't relevant unless prairie dogs etc.
I noticed in one of your videos here that you were loading one cartridge at a time. Wouldn't you want to use the magazine to know they will feed properly in the field?
I just needed to watch farther. Thanks for the advice!
Hey Gavin, I have not yet watched the video yet, and I have it paused at 2 seconds in. I noticed on the rifle that is in the picture there, the bell of that Leupold scope is extremely close to the barrel of the rifle. I've wondered if you have ever looked into something like this and made sure that the bell of the scope is not contacting the rifle during a firing. With all of the substantial recoil and vibration going on, my fear is the scope making contact, causing accuracy and even scope malfunction issues? Maybe that's a video for the future with your high speed camera??
Nah fam. If you zoom in there’s clear daylight between the bell and the barrel.
@@echofoxtrotwhiskey1595 True, BUT I said it was extremely close. Not touching. But recoil on a rifle will shake that bell if you watch it in slow mo
When it comes to hunting loads I load them like my precision ammo. Best velocity and accuracy as I can get. I don’t change my process. I do the same thing every time.
Been loading for 18 years now i load for 15 gun now and love doing it .
I load my hunting ammo to the same standards as my match ammo.
All of what you tacking about
what is a good load for 308 subsonic
Quick question, can we
Shoot the 30 cal. Hornady ftx 135 gr. FTX in a 30-30 Henry.
Have never seen dies like that before what are they
Have virgin alpha brass, shpuld i full length size? Or should i just run it?
Norma oryx works on everything 😁
Now days everyone seams to want the ceracoat or some coating on a hunting rifle but that won’t protect the inside of the barrel or the wear surfaces in the action? I believe a serious all weather rifle should be stainless.
For me, my hunting ammo is treated like competition ammo. There's no difference in my humble opinion. In fact, maybe even more so because it's intended to end the life of God's creatures.
All the factors y'all mentioned are also considerations, but when it comes to acceptable accuracy for a hunting rifle it must shoot 1/2 MOA or less, and honestly I wouldn't be happy with 1/2 MOA most of the time. I battled for a couple months one time to get a rifle from 3/8 to 1/4 MOA, and I did.
Why put myself through the torture? It all comes down confidence. I fully believe confidence in one's equipment is worth the effort.
All hunting rifles and comp guns have a 1.5lb trigger, all shoulders are bumped 2k, all cases are annealed every firing, and so much more. They are even sorted, brass and bullets, to find the least consistent links in the chain. Once sorted, the scrub stuff gets test to at least 600, and if doest perform it's gone; usually, about a 15% attrition rate. Since switching to Alpha brass though, even my 15% attrition is making the cut.
There's so much more to talk about, but that's my general for hunting ammo.
You have gavins..lol
Nice Guy(s) !!
It's always hunting season ....paper or animal!
👍💪
Really, it sounds like you're just talking about building precision loads. Know the OAL which your magazine will fit, then build the best possible round that will fit within that OAL. The question then is did you build your round when it was 90 degrees out, but you're hunting in 20 degrees? Even Varget won't produce the same pressure at those extremes. So you need to test that round in the same environment you're going to hunt in, WITH the rifle you're going to hunt with.
This is not correct. If you find a velocity node with temp stable powders you can easily find loads which work the same in summer and winter.
@@bigeclipse718 I solely use Varget for 308 rounds. Despite "temp stable powders", they are not exactly the same from 90 degrees to 20 degrees. Yes they're a lot better than using something like TAC, but it is not exactly the same. I've shot thousands of rounds with Varget (I currently have over 30lbs because it is my "beloved" powder) and the difference between .5" groups and .9" groups at 100y is 2 10ths of a grain when you're talking such drastic temp differences. With a less stable powder, that difference is more like 3 MOA, but it's a difference none-the-less.
That's because you did not find a velocity node my friend. I competition shoot all year long out to 1 mile. You need to do research about velocity nodes.
I get that Guy is soft spoken. He needs to speak up