Great guide... Couple of weeks ago where GT7 had Interlagos in Race C, for Quali mostly was in -2 minus a few turns, but for the race I had to bump it to +2 because of tire wear. (I was in the Group 3 Porsche) I also always prefer races where I can adjust my Brake Balance because it changes the car a lot and in my level usually gives me an advantage I've noticed
You could do a part 2 of this video with some more advanced concepts related to BB. Idk exactly how it works on GT physics, but in other games this understeer/oversteer is produced by tyre heating under braking. Front brakes = front overheating = less grip in fronts = understeer. Rear brakes = rears overheating = less rear grip = back sliding and oversteering. This is basically the explanation they gave me why you get understeer/oversteer with different BBs, and this is only the tip of the iceberg. As example, with front bb, the rear tires are colder in the corner exit, so you get better corner exiting. With rear bb, front tires have more grip so you brake more. Those kind of things almost no one talks about, it's usually only the difference in rotation with different bbs. But people don't talk about differences in braking distance, corner exit, and other things that are affected by BB. And this kind of stuff you could talk in a part 2.
@EazyDuz18 which GT7 does have. Idk how they apply the tire temperature in their physic, how precise it is and if they apply the same rules as other games, but GT does have tire temperature and overheating. Try Kyoto, T1, turn the wheel too much and you will see the tire indicator blinking red. And also you have use the simdash app. Or the Ferrrari VGT that shows real time tire temp in cockpit view.
It's not about heating, it's about slip direction. If rear tires don't brake at all they are going to slip laterally, thus tire is going to be pushed to the side. It's matter of friction direction. Even w/o heating at all, all those effects are reproducible.
really a very big thank you to you, it's the first time that someone has explained it in such a thorough way, I took it all down, I'm going to test it right now🤜🔥🤛
I have a tuned 500 Abarth which is an FF and I run a -2. Anything over 0 causes the back to lose grip and gives severe oversteer when braking. This is a good general rule of thumb, but some cars do not fall into these categories well!
Thank you for this interesting and informative video. I always learn something new from your videos. Too bad you don't have more subscriptions and likes. You deserve a lot more subscriptions and likes. Never give up and keep up the good work.
Wow! I always drive the McLaren 650s and I (for some reason) put the BB at +2 After seeing this video I am going to try 0 first, then -1 and so on. This small change maybe what’s holding me back for faster lap times
You didn't cover All-Wheel Drive cars, but for the most part they behave like FF cars for the purpose of brake bias. Slam that BB to the rear to help with rotation because AWD cars like to understeer naturally.
Another great video. One of the best explanations I've seen. I can work with it. But please tell me, where were you in GT7 when you recorded it? After watching I looked for it but no luck. Where can you run segments with different cars?
@@DigitRacingDG Thanks for the reply. I looked at Circuit Experience, but for some reason I was under the impression that you were selecting the cars. I went back this morning and realized that you were selecting _tracks_. Thanks again.
Fellow racer i apreciate a lot that you dont give us the boring sells speach of like subscribe so "we" can reach 1M subs etc...good one. Also usefull content
Gr4 should be the same, but again everything depends on the cars and corner type. Every 4wd car is different so I did not include them, and also there are only rear wheel drive cars in gt7 gr3
What to do, when you turn and the car underfucking steers the fuck out and goes straight to the wall???!! Ive just about had enough of this seriously dude.. frustrating as fuck
This is where the *Real* in "Real driving Simulator" is not working. In real life the rear brakes of FF Racing/Track cars are barely getting use. For Rotation the alingnment is set up differently or the pressures in the rear tires are let's say not grip-orientated.😂
Most Overrated GT7 Channel on RUclips? A lot of "click-bait" with basic (aka. could gleam that from the manual?) explanations with not much substance, poor examples (i.e. Brake Balance from -1 to +5?), nor really applicable or relative to real GT7-racing (across the many DR and SR spectrum ;). How about explaining the difference between minute settings like -1, 0 and +1, and how they might affect you/your car/tires over the course of a lap/race. AND how these many different settings apply/relate to the different racing/driving styles of us mere "mortals" ? I'm sorry, but whenever I do watch your posts, I always walk away feeling let-down.
Max front braking when braking hard in a straight line gives you the shortest stopping distance, you need to be adjusting bias depending on where on the track you are
They typically immobilise it in time trials, don't they? Even immobilise the handbrake - they must have their reasons? (But not sure they're good ones!)
most underrated gt7 channel on youtube, wonderful explanation. more power to you DIGIT!
The uneven tire wear at the end was as important as the main concepts for sure. Thanks for the video.
Great guide... Couple of weeks ago where GT7 had Interlagos in Race C, for Quali mostly was in -2 minus a few turns, but for the race I had to bump it to +2 because of tire wear. (I was in the Group 3 Porsche)
I also always prefer races where I can adjust my Brake Balance because it changes the car a lot and in my level usually gives me an advantage I've noticed
Thank you Digit. Great work as always, just applied this for Suzuka and improved my time almost instantly. Much appreciated.
You could do a part 2 of this video with some more advanced concepts related to BB.
Idk exactly how it works on GT physics, but in other games this understeer/oversteer is produced by tyre heating under braking.
Front brakes = front overheating = less grip in fronts = understeer. Rear brakes = rears overheating = less rear grip = back sliding and oversteering.
This is basically the explanation they gave me why you get understeer/oversteer with different BBs, and this is only the tip of the iceberg.
As example, with front bb, the rear tires are colder in the corner exit, so you get better corner exiting. With rear bb, front tires have more grip so you brake more.
Those kind of things almost no one talks about, it's usually only the difference in rotation with different bbs. But people don't talk about differences in braking distance, corner exit, and other things that are affected by BB. And this kind of stuff you could talk in a part 2.
This only matters on games which incorporate brake and tyre heating like ACC
@EazyDuz18 which GT7 does have. Idk how they apply the tire temperature in their physic, how precise it is and if they apply the same rules as other games, but GT does have tire temperature and overheating. Try Kyoto, T1, turn the wheel too much and you will see the tire indicator blinking red. And also you have use the simdash app. Or the Ferrrari VGT that shows real time tire temp in cockpit view.
It's not about heating, it's about slip direction. If rear tires don't brake at all they are going to slip laterally, thus tire is going to be pushed to the side. It's matter of friction direction. Even w/o heating at all, all those effects are reproducible.
really a very big thank you to you, it's the first time that someone has explained it in such a thorough way, I took it all down, I'm going to test it right now🤜🔥🤛
This vid was AWESOME thanks!
I was just looking for a break bias vid
Thanks for another great upload!
Thanks
Thanks!
Thank you
@@DigitRacingDG You are welcome. Great information. Thank you.
@@DigitRacingDG You are welcome. Great content and well worth it.
Thanks digit been struggling getting my head around this for a while, great explanation 👌
Have been looking for a guide like this for a while. Thanks a bunch!
This was a extremely helpful Video Digit. Thanks so much
Thanks 👍 now I understand a bit more 🤝
Sharp, clear, efficient: congrats for the video!
I have a tuned 500 Abarth which is an FF and I run a -2. Anything over 0 causes the back to lose grip and gives severe oversteer when braking. This is a good general rule of thumb, but some cars do not fall into these categories well!
Thank you for this interesting and informative video. I always learn something new from your videos. Too bad you don't have more subscriptions and likes. You deserve a lot more subscriptions and likes. Never give up and keep up the good work.
Wow!
I always drive the McLaren 650s and I (for some reason) put the BB at +2
After seeing this video
I am going to try 0 first, then -1 and so on.
This small change maybe what’s holding me back for faster lap times
Great video Digit 👌🍻
You didn't cover All-Wheel Drive cars, but for the most part they behave like FF cars for the purpose of brake bias. Slam that BB to the rear to help with rotation because AWD cars like to understeer naturally.
Another great video. One of the best explanations I've seen. I can work with it. But please tell me, where were you in GT7 when you recorded it? After watching I looked for it but no luck. Where can you run segments with different cars?
Circuit experience, you can go to any track and there is circuit experience section where you can do these challenges and get 2 mill per track.
@@DigitRacingDG Thanks for the reply. I looked at Circuit Experience, but for some reason I was under the impression that you were selecting the cars. I went back this morning and realized that you were selecting _tracks_. Thanks again.
Thank You, Digit, for the Master class
Very usefull guide! Tnk'u! Very appreciate!
What about the mazda atenza gr4 car. It has a front engine with all wheel drive?
Great video and great explanation 👍
Thanks, good data
Fellow racer i apreciate a lot that you dont give us the boring sells speach of like subscribe so "we" can reach 1M subs etc...good one. Also usefull content
You got another sub. Thank you
I quite like +2 for most MR
Great explanation, great video! New subscriber!
Welcome aboard!
Hi Mate can I ask what suspension and brake balance settings you will use on the Mazda GR3 for the manufacturers cup at Suzuka, many thanks!!
I'll probably use default suspension, and BB at 0, it should be the best for the tires
@@DigitRacingDG appreciate your response. Great content !
What to do if front tyres wear more then the rear tyres ???
Great video what about AWD or 4 wheel drive cars?
Every 4WD car is different and there are no 4wd cars in gr.3 so I did not include them. Also they would need a separate video
Oh yes, I was thinking about gr4.
Thank you very match🎉😎 very good Video 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Спасибо, было интересно.
Good day thank you that was very informative 👍 I wanted to find out about gr 4 cars is it the same principle and 4wd gr4 ?
Gr4 should be the same, but again everything depends on the cars and corner type. Every 4wd car is different so I did not include them, and also there are only rear wheel drive cars in gt7 gr3
@DigitGamingDG thank you for taking the time to respond. I really appreciate it and your feedback
Very good job…. Thank you 👍
verry god🔥🔥🔥🔥
For 4WD?
+5
What to do, when you turn and the car underfucking steers the fuck out and goes straight to the wall???!! Ive just about had enough of this seriously dude.. frustrating as fuck
BB +5 or try MR cars. If still understeers, set the top and bottom differential settings to 5
New physics made some of this outdated. Hey, at least you have a reason to recreate the series. These videos perform the best, no?
This is where the *Real* in "Real driving Simulator" is not working.
In real life the rear brakes of FF Racing/Track cars are barely getting use.
For Rotation the alingnment is set up differently or the pressures in the rear tires are let's say not grip-orientated.😂
Tu podia falar em português hein
Most Overrated GT7 Channel on RUclips? A lot of "click-bait" with basic (aka. could gleam that from the manual?) explanations with not much substance, poor examples (i.e. Brake Balance from -1 to +5?), nor really applicable or relative to real GT7-racing (across the many DR and SR spectrum ;).
How about explaining the difference between minute settings like -1, 0 and +1, and how they might affect you/your car/tires over the course of a lap/race. AND how these many different settings apply/relate to the different racing/driving styles of us mere "mortals" ?
I'm sorry, but whenever I do watch your posts, I always walk away feeling let-down.
Idk. The man's new physics video was super helpful and I think he communicates very well. He's alright for a white boy. 😜
Max front braking when braking hard in a straight line gives you the shortest stopping distance, you need to be adjusting bias depending on where on the track you are
Works for me (A+ rank)@@jcrosby4804
It definitely seems less effective than it did on sport
Yes 100%
They typically immobilise it in time trials, don't they?
Even immobilise the handbrake - they must have their reasons? (But not sure they're good ones!)
It almost does nothing at all