2008 Honda CR-V 2.4 AC Not Working, Diagnosis of Compressor Clutch Circuit
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- Опубликовано: 6 мар 2021
- The vehicle was recently purchased and the new owner was told the AC does not work. System pressure is adequate so focused attention to the AC clutch coil and circuit Turns out it has mechanically failed.
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Very nice scanner abilities on top of lessons. Thanks. ... Have a figure out challenge re: my 2008 Honda Accord AC not working since last start up. It is hot enough outside to know I want my auto AC working ASP. Just confirmed my compressor pully is not spinning like it should. I am sure my DIYer will figure this out soon.
For me: Turned out to be a faulty relay. Switching ac relay w horn relay was first immediate fix 🙂. ... Then new relay was installed.
Excellent and very helpful!!!
Very nice and clear.
Thanks! My problem seems to be the exact same. Condenser fans work, relay turns on, but the compressor clutch does not engage. I have not verified continuity between the relay and the compressor clutch yet, but I'd imagine I'll need a new compressor too.
Need to check power at the compresor clutch...
Cool info… cool video
I appreciate your helpful video ! On my 2007 Honda CRV, The AC was blowing warm air only & the clutch was not engaging but when I swap the AC Compressor clutch relay with Air Fuel Ratio Sensor relay (both 12V & 120 ohm four pin) . . . Boom! The AC started cooling . . . The problem is that I got check engine light turned on the dashboard. Do you think this could get worse? if I drive it like for a week? for the relay takes 6 days to be delivered. Thanks
Lol so you swapped the AC relay for tge AFR relay and now the MIL is on? Why don't you try a different relay if there is one like the rear defogger if it hasvone and it's the same number otherwise what about a salvage yard. Driving with the MIL on should not hurt it though but I'd try find a used relay in the meantime.
Nice diag Phil 👍
Thanks for this video.
Really help.
I have an 05 that kicks on and kicks right back off I’m replacing both radiator and condenser fans cause they are weak abs old cause the car has 280k miles on it but do you think it’s the clutch or the compressor that’s making it do that or does the overall heat making the clutch fail???
I’m having same issue, what did you figure?
Thank you for the vid.
PHILLIP, great information with logic testing method step by step can you check the thermo fuse u mentioned by reading the resister of it and in some cars the clutch is hidden inside or u can say is one peace internal so i think u must have a scanner to check that or there is another way thankyou for sharing cheeeers brother.
Dorman sells a replacement clutch kit. I have ordered it. I'll post a follow up when I replace it. Thanks for the tip.
Thank you for the video!
My wife’s 2009 CR-V with 54,000 is starting to give her problems. Ranging from totally working fine with out issues to, no A/C at all to working for a while to then stop working while driving.
Just purchased a new Power Probe 4 to help me with trying to find the issue and to finally have a good circuit auto tester. I was curious if it could be a bad or going bad thermal protection switch? And how would you go about testing it and replacing it if this is the issue. Thank you in advance
I doubt its the thermal protection switch. They typically fail completely and I've never had one intermittent. When the AC stops working you need to see whether the AC clutch is engaged and the compressor is spinning. If its not it could be excessive air gap on the clutch. Carefully push on the drive plate with a stick. If the compressor engages then there is an excessive air gap due to wear on the clutch surfaces.
@@PhillipBailey I will check the air gap thank you for the reply
My AC worked for like 20-30 minutes little cold but when we go to a car mechanic they filled it and now the ac completely stop to blow cold , do you think its a fuse or completly have to change the compressor? honda crv 2.0 awd 2008
Could be dozens of things, of course check the fuse but needs to be diagnosed.
Grasias
I really like this video for detailed diagnosis. What about AC that works on and off. Like my Honda CRV 2011 AC works well after I start and travel for few minutes then it starts blowing warm air after.
When it stops working pull over where it's safe, don't turn off the AC or engine. Take note whether the AC compressor is engaged. If not you could have excessive air gap on the clutch drive plate. Over time the two surfaces wear and the air gap become too big for the magnetism to overcome. As the clutch heats up after use the resistance of the clutch coil increases, current goes down and the electromagnet gets weaker. With the AC on and car running use a wooden stick to help the clutch engage. Be careful not to hurt yourself. If it engages that's likely your problem. There is a selectable shim behind the drive plate. I've seen the clutch worn to the point you could remove the shim completely and the drive plate does not drag. Of course you could have other issues like a failing pressure switch or ac clutch relay. Good luck.
@@PhillipBailey i have the same intermittent problem. replaced the relay, i was able to hear the relay click. i tried using a metal rod to engage the clutch on mine, it didn't seem to work, and i felt the rod get pulled to it. i didn't get under the car to see if there was power to the compressor. is there any troubleshooting that i can do to see if it is the pressure switch? or if there was anything else to look into? thank you
@TheSwarm666X if you feel magnetism on the compresor clutch drive plate but the compresor is not engaging then likely the air gap is too big. Try remove the small bolt from the center of the drive plate pull the plate off and you will find a spacer washer that establishes the air gap. Try removing it completely as the pulley and plate wear over time increasing the air gap until it won't pull in. As long as it does not drag when disengaged. Good luck
Hi! I hope you can answer my questionn, i have 2008 crv, my ac not working i checked the ac compressor won’t work and checked all the relay and fuses are good. If i don’t have freon does thenac clutch still engage?
If it is low on refrigerant the compressor won't engage. Try bypassing the relay by jumping pins 3 to 5 or 30 to 87. The compressor should the engage. If it doesn't you have a clutch problem. If it does but doesn't cool thr system is low. Don't run it too long like that. Max 2 min.
@@PhillipBailey thank you so much i will try this!
Hi! I got one more question! Sorry!
My ac worked already i added some freon. And after like 3 weeks when i drove it the ac compressor won’t work anymore i tried to bypass it still didn’t work u think it’s a bad compressor already?
Thank you so much!
@iancelemin4441 if you added refrigerant there must be a leak. Add some dye to the system and check with a black light. Don't add sealant to the system! If you do a professional shop may refuse to work on it since the sealant screws up their machines.
I checked the amount of freon it was 50 psi. Went to the shop and they used some machine to recharged the ac.
What if the coolant fan doesn't work, will that stop the compressor from working
I doubt it would prevent AC operation but it is remotely possible. What's wrong with the cooling fan? Is it setting any codes. If it gets too hot that will stop AC operation.
So if the engine bay gets too hot would it make the clutch engage then Disengage repeatedly in quick cycles
@@RJVermillion Rapid cycling of the AC clutch is typically caused by low refrigerant charge
hi i have a problem with the light of my climate control honda crv 2007 does not turn on
You need to check fuses and system pressure to start with.
I have a problem with the blue swith back in the glove box, I have to move it to start the fan, did you know the name of that piece
I don't believe there is a switch behind the dash, possibly a connector you are moving or the blower resistor connections. sorry not sure.
I noticed on my 2009 Crv the A/C only blows very cold air when it's driving or I accelerate the rpm on park... When it's just idle it's not as cold...is this normal?
Make sure the cooling fan is running with the AC on. It could also be slightly low on refrigerant.
Great video! I have. 2008 CRV I’ve only had for a couple months. Tried turning the AC on when it got hot out and nothing but warm air. Shop realized the compressor had been unplugged so once it was plugged in, the AC started to work. Problem is, now that the AC compressor is plugged in, my car battery has been dead the last two mornings. Once the battery is charged and driven for a half hour, I’m good all day. Battery and alternator both test well at local Autozone. My only assumption is that the AC unit has an electrical issue causing the battery to be drained. Have you run into this ever? Any advice?
Just to clarify, the ac compressor has only been plugged in for the last two days, hence the battery being dead the last two mornings.
Likely a stuck AC clutch relay. With the car off the front drive of the compressor should allow you to turn the compressor by hand. If you can't then the clutch is on usually due to a stuck on relay. Locate and removed the AC relay and listen for the clutch to disengage. This will stress the AC pressures and may cause the over pressure relief to blow off since the compressor cannot disengage.
@@PhillipBailey that was it! Thanks so much Phillip!
@@mikem239 glad it helped you...
my clutch spins, so not seized , but has not magnetic attraction whether car is running or not?
@@royharnarain6512 have to check for power at the clutch. Is the AC relay being turned on?
My crv started throwing steam when I turned the a/c on then there was no cold air. Any advice?
Steam from where? I take it the defrost or heater vents? If so them you likely have a heater core leak.
@@PhillipBailey thanks for the reply!! I was inside the car when the steam came out of the right side of the hood.
@@JohnSmith-sk8ub May have been refrigerant blowing off due to a leak or over pressure in the system. should only do it once and the no more refrigerant in the system to blow off.
@@PhillipBailey thank you so much! So I probably have a leak somewhere? Probably not the compressor then?
@@JohnSmith-sk8ub you need to have it leak tested. Could be leaking from any hose or fitting as well as the compresor.
Can I test the resistance on coil on pin 5 an chassis ground at ac relay socket?
Yes that should work. Somewhere around 3 to 5 ohms. If the air gap is excessive it will still rest good though.
@@PhillipBailey got about 20 kOhm on my measure. That going through the wire and connector to the coil. Strange reading I will say.
@@orfeous need to test right at the compresor plug.
@@PhillipBailey okey, and why that?
@@orfeous if the coil at the compressor tests in spec the you need to check the wire from pin 5 of the relay to the coil for high resistance then check the ground from the coil connector to engine ground for high resistance.
Is there any way to shorten the air gap without a new clutch assembly?
I can here the clutch make a clink noise every time it engages(once a minute). The gap is out of spec so debating on a clutch kit or a whole new compressor. Any clue UAC makes a decent compressor?
The air gap is set by a selective washer on the end of the compresor shaft. Take out the small 8mm headed bolt and pull the drive plate off. On some, I've actually removed the washer completely as long as the clutch does not drag. I've saved washers from various other applications, but you will be hard pressed to source one from the dealer. Good luck.
@@PhillipBailey I truly appreciate taking the time to reply. Do I run any risk, if the compressor goes bad, to send particulates through the whole system? I’ve heard some say yes, and others say no due to it being sealed? Not exactly sure what they meant by sealed. One last question.. would you recommend any other brand of compressor besides Denso on this (07 CRV) application?
@MrRedHotChiliMan if all you need is the clutch I'd recommend just replacing that as it can sometimes be accomplished without evacuating and recharging the system. If the compresor has failed internally then that's a different story. I'd recommend original equipment new over a remanufactured part. I'm not familiar with the brand you mentioned. Here's the clutch replacement ruclips.net/video/rmnvZ_ptFCo/видео.htmlfeature=shared
HOLA AMIGO , L LADO DE LA CAJA DE FUSIBLE DEL MOTOR HAY UNA CAJITA MAS CHICA CON DOS QUE CREO QUE DICE RELAY , PARA QUE ES ??
I'm sorry but I'm not sure what they serve. Possibly owners manual may help
08 crv ac comp comes on stops after a few miles maybe 8 I have 14 volts to clutch tap or push end of clutch it kicks in ac works great until I turn it off or drive a few miles still have magazines to clutch air gap is good pressure is 25 / 175 static one to two degrees over amber
Sounds like the air gap on the clutch is too big. Remove the small bolt on the front of the drive plate and try find a thinner spacer shim. Sometimes you can remove the shim altogether as long as the drive plate does not drag when released.
Now here's a thing. My AC quit on me yesterday, so I started testing the electrics. Took out the relay and tested that and it's fine. Checked for voltage on the compressor supply, +12.7v so ok. Then I checked the voltages on the relay inputs. +10.8v with only ignition on and +14.2v with engine running, so OK. However, the other input terminal reads +3.4v ignition only and also with engine running. Weird.
However, I shorted out the compressor terminals and the clutch clicked. I started the engine and the compressor was turning. That means nothing wrong with the compressor, which was a relief.
What I can't understand though, is why the compressor clutch doesn't throw when the relay is in place. I thought it might be because there is a +3.4v on the non-fused input terminal (i don't know where that is coming from). That would lower the voltage difference to 14.2-3.4 = 10.8v. Okay, I thought that might be the problem, so I tested the relay with an old motorcycle battery with 10.1v in it. The relay worked fine. At this point, confusion took over.
The problem seems to be somewhere between the interior switch and the relay. However, when I turn the interior A/C switch on, 'A/C ON' is displayed and when I turn it off 'A/C OFF' is shown. Surely that means the switch is working?
Is it something to do with the A/C pressure sensor? I took off a cap and pressed the valve and a quick hiss showed there was pressure there. Okay maybe not enough, but would that not just cut the power supply to the relay input? Maybe not.
Any ideas?
You need to qualify actual system pressures and scan for codes related to the pressures. Not sure which pin on the relay is measuring 3volts but the ECM grounds the relay if all the conditions are correct. If you jump 30 to 87 at the relay and the compressor runs does it blow cold? If not it's likely low on charge. A scan tool would show you AC request, AC relay command, AC pressures and AC status. You need a full function scan tool to see this though as it's not in the OBD2 data list.
@@PhillipBailey Yes, I'll do a check to see if the A/C gets cold when I short out the relay pins. I suspect it is a pressure problem, but I don't have a scan tool.
As for the 3.4v, it's on what should be the input ground pin. That's the bit I don't understand, but not being an electrical engineer, that's not too surprising.
Probably best if I get a specialist to sort it out. At least I know the compressor is okay, so the cost shouldn't be too high.
Thanks very much for your prompt reply and help.
@@PhillipBailey Hi again. I shorted out the terminal and went for a short drive. No noticeable cooling, so probably low A/C pressure.
However, when I got home I noticed the engine management warning message (PGM-FI) for a diesel, was showing on the dash. I'm not sure if this was showing before because it is not easy to see behind the steering wheel, but the handbook says I shouldn't drive it again. Waiting for a call back from a mobile mechanic to see if he can come out and look at it. I hope he can sort it. Thanks for your help again.
@dawhandle yes likely low or empty then. It won't turn on the AC if the pressures are too low. Need to put gages on it.
Faulty thermal switch on compressor
08 CRV got a new ac compressor last year ac only blows cold air when not accelerating and it’s making weird noise doesn’t need coolant
The A/C condenser fan is not working only the radiator fan spins
Also engine doesn’t overheat or anything
You really need to see the system pressures to tell what's going on in the system. If the noise is coming from the compressor maybe the clutch is slipping due to high pressure. The cooling fan should be running with the AC on. Check the power and ground at the cooling fan and check the fuses.
service bulletin for coil clutch assy .possibley out of time or mileage
Thanks I will investigate that.
Found it a warranty extension for 7 years or 100,000 miles and is over both. Did find the clutch kit available and believe I can do it without opening the AC system. Parts on order. Thanks for the tip...
i would have you or the customer for an extension honda good will is very good if you want . also I would rand r if you do it out of the car .better off
@@davidellenbaum1229 The warranty extension was for 7 years. The car is 12 years old now so I seriously doubt they would do anything.
@@PhillipBailey honda has a liberal policy .but it's up to you. also is this vehicle a rebranded title ie total loss . if it is all canceled except seat belts none deployed
Brand new compressor fuses are good but mg clutch not engaging.
Control circuit problem or low on refrigerant.
12:34 boot on CV axle roached out
Wow eagle eyes. I'll have a look. I didn't notice that unless it's a trick of the light.
I have no power at the compressor. I checked both the fuse and relay they're fine
If you have power leaving the relay and no power at the compresor then there is an open in the circuit. You say you checked the relay but how? Jumping the two large terminals in the relay center should send power to the compresor. If you run the car with the ac on and pull the relay do you hear it clock off and back on when you plug it back in.
@@PhillipBailey checked the relay by switching it with another one. I unplugged at the compressor, hooked power directly to it, and it came on, blowing cold air in the car. So yes theres an open circuit somewhere, just where is the question now.
@SuperCody888 jump the two large pins at tge relay and see if the compressor kicks on. This will determine if its a problem on the control side of the relay or output side. Again does the relat click indicating its being turned on.
@@PhillipBailey so jump wired between 3 and 5 on the the relay socket?
@@PhillipBailey yes relay is clicking when a/c is turned on
put a new compressor, recharged system, swapped the relay, pressure sensor on ac line, compressor kicks on then off ! checked the sensor in front of the condenser, perhaps its the climate control module
You need to view the data in the engine control module and connect gages to see what the pressures are doing. AC request, CA command, engine temperature, etc...
@@PhillipBailey did that already checking ac diodes already ordered climate control
Thermal fuse
@robwhiff3411 no it was the clutch
Oh ok
Don't need to hear about tps codes, etc, here for ac issues, video too long
Sorry I waisted your valuable time.