How Much Battery Capacity Does An ID3 Have After 1 Year?
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- Опубликовано: 20 дек 2021
- I've done a test to see how much battery capacity my Volkswagen ID.3 has got after 1 year and 9,000 miles of use.
Alex's Twitter: / alex_gillon
Nell's Twitter: / nellmcclean - Авто/Мото
Props for having the nerve to loop the M25 just to test the battery capacity!
For international viewers, it can be sheer hell!
Thanks for the easy to understand breakdown of measuring battery capacity. concise and to the point. I am hoping to do the same with my ID3 when I reach 20k kms. Ill try posting a video once done to compare
Thanks for mentioneng me. My name is not Björn though. my name is Chris ;)
My 8% degredation is fairly normal for an EV in the first few months.
Most EV car maker though bring the buffer in to not show degredation.
Your drive was great. But driving not a constant speed and accelerating a lot, even only to 30 mph
means you have more heat loss, therefore the kWh taking out of the battery is higher.
And you don't know if the capacity was exactly 58 kWh a year ago.
The only real way to know is if a VW partner is measuring the battery.
Good to see you back nice video.
Nicely explained - Thanks
You can another decimal place if you show kWh/100km. That is what I use for my e-Golf to get more accurate calculations. Good job being kind to the pack.
Excellent video! Thanks for all the info. However I need to point out that all the units at 8:38 should be kWh not kW
Nice to see you back with some videos, they certainly helped me to order an id 3 (which I’m still waiting for!).
Any chance of a 1 year driving update with regards to daily use? Would love to know how the car has been to live with over the year.
you should use an obd & go off the BMS SoC% before & after drive (for discharge) AND charge back to 100%. Also the BMS counter for kW charged & kW discharged from the pack from the starting "100%" to the "5%" & back to "100%." Doing so will more accurately place those decimal point.
Great test - Not sure VW has the reputation to trust the car figs rather than charger figs - On that note, I wonder if there are tests on paid for Charger accuracy like the Gov checks petrol pump accuracy, I'd like to think they couldn't charge for a kwh and supply less?
Battery Life have charged a lot on fast chargers, which may give a higher battery loss. As I understand it the case is, if you charge like 11 kWh, the battery will live longer? :D
Your ID3 is getting summer figures motorway driving range compared to ours, we're lucky to get 2.5mi/kwh during winter ~5c with the heat pump fitted too...
Yes we do normally find worse range than this, the fastest I've managed to burn the battery on a single journey is around 160 miles in the winter! It definitely helped that the battery was fully pre-heated before the journey by a full charge
Thank You for these Videos, How much did it cost to fill up the 95% if you don't mind me asking.
A 58kWh car will use maybe 65kW of electricity (worst case scenario) to fully charge from 0%-100% given there are losses during the process.
Multiply 65 by the rate you pay per kWh, for me at home that is 5.5p off-peak, but it could be 45p if using a public rapid charger.
A typical charge is 20%-80% which would be 39kW of electricity - at home that would cost me £2.15, at a public rapid charger it’s £17.55 - that would add an average of 130 miles of range, more in summer and less in winter.
Granted you have charged more kindly to the car than others. However have you had any other evs. If so has degradation slowed to like 2 % or less per year after 1st year
In general, are you pleased you bought this car?
So it would look as if it pays not to torture your battery Chris-style. Just one sample of each, of course but still an interesting indication.
Also does the cable that comes with it allow you to access the fast charging point and your slower home charging. Or do you need to buy additional cables?
The fast chargers 50KW or higher come with the cable attached, as the standard cable would probably melt. Many of the faster chargers have cooled cables as the charging can generate an amount of heat …. These are known as charging loses , usually around 2-3% of your charge is lost in heat generated. The standard cables that the car comes with will handle the 7kW AC chargers at homes and also you can plug them into the 11kW & 22kW AC chargers (3phase) that’s you often see on Zap-Map. However most EV’s (ID3 included) can only pull 11kW from AC as the inverter is limited to 11kW. It has to convert this AC energy into DC which is how the battery stores it’s energy. 👍🏻
You only need to buy cables if you want to charge via a standard 3-pin socket.
We are looking at the life pro model, our trips are made up of 20-40 mile journeys 3 /4 times week. Should we get a heat pump? The wheels on your model is that the 18 inch aero steel wheels?
Heat pump is overrated... I doesnt bring a lot of advantage
You won’t need the heat pump with that type of usage.
1:10 - That's Chris - Bjorn is the Thai in Norway guy. :o)
So, do u have same measurement when the car was new? We have measured id3 when it was brand new with special ewuipment and capacity was 54kWh, repeated after 1year and it was same. Thx.
Right know boys from the ev club are making measurement of usable capacity of ID4 and Enyaq, for now usable capacity is 70kWh from 0%-100% on GOM.
Unfortunately not, I wish I did the same test!
why did you call Chris Bjorn.????
I have an ioniq with almost 17k done and i have no loss yet i still get the range i am meant to get
it wuld be good if the car said when charging what it got so you could see charger vs what car says it got to see losses
i think your slow charging practise and not charging to 100% is the main reason why your battery deteriorated at a lower rate compared to others
What is the cost of a full charge at a ‘petrol station’, I am curious what the cost is of running an EV if you are away from your home charger?
Ranges between 0,35€ to 0,70€ per Kw/h in Spain. So I would say when you're away of the home charger costs are around the same as a Petrol car. But on you everyday use, (using home charger) its only 1/5 of a Petrol car. So overall, much cheaper to operate.
This isn't a true test ofcourse. There are too many variables. But very interesting non the less. Thank you.
I have an 83k miles BMW I3 on a 66 plate. And the battery has lost so little capacity that it's difficult to judge in day to day driving.
Great video thanks! We are buying an ID3. Would you recommend the 145 or 204 HP version??
It depends on your usage but if you can you should go for the 204 as its got good acceleration which can be helpful sometimes. I haven't tried the 145 but own a 204
Depends how quickly you want to accelerate and get up to speed, and what car you’re used to. I got a 204, my previous car was a Mercedes V6 with 231.
Go with the 204.It is a heavy thing at 1700 kgs at least.Tried the entry one and it is adequate but a slug compared to my 18 year old 330i.That's 230 BHP but only 1400 Kgs.
8:37 Not sure what you are calculating here in the end.
You try to get a full 100 % out of 95 %, subtract a virtual 2 kW(h) and then compare it to a 95 % charge again?
Amount of energy is kWh not KW.
Charge speed is kW (or kWh/h), not kW/h.
the battery is 62 kwh and usable capacity is 58 kwh as mentioned in official papers.. where the heck is 4kwh? i thought this is buffer to mitigate those loses
All of it I hope 1 year is literally nothing 10 years would be the only time I would be even thinking about it. 10 year old cars nowadays are basically like a new car. No rust and all mechanical items still fine. I've usually done the brakes once in that time. And 2 sets of tyres.
This is not how it is done. How do you calculate charging losses? You need special equipment to be able to determine deterioration.
It's worth watching the video to see my testing process rather than skipping to the end, I don't just charge it
To any ID3 owners? Would you recommend buying the car? I’m still worried about buying an electric car. A car which only has 200 miles capacity has its drawbacks compared to my PetrolPrices car which gets 340 miles from a full tank.
I expect VW figures are very accurate as that info is used for GOM.
I have an Id4 on order and I want it to last longer than me, what is the life of the battery ? What’s the price of a new battery ? What’s the car worth if your battery says it’s only able to charge to 70% ? You wouldn’t buy a mobile phone if it had only a battery health left of 70% would you.
What the video says is he thinks the battery life will degrade by about 1% per year overall - so that's 30 years to get to 70%. No doubt by then the battery technology will be far in advance of what we have now - your future self will look back and laugh at 200-mile batteries from the comfort of the upgraded 5,000k battery that's the size of an iPhone :)
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Stoneground wholemeal
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Not sure I agree with the maths. The miles per kwh reading in the the car is an average, so I would say that the figure to use would be the total delivered by the charger on the session.
3-4 kw of loss on the charger/cable id say is unlikely, especially when you consider a kettle or electric fire bar is around 3kw, the cable would get hugely hot.
A battery is a storage device, with losses...
You will never get out what you put in...
*Mercedes 2019 [W247] B200 AMG Line Class with full MBUX - (Diesel) 108 Miles Average Speed 53 MPH and 85.6 MPG - Say no more - Good luck on Carbon Neutral by 2030 !*
LOL this whole video is pointless. THE NUMBERS ARE NOT TO BE USED LIKE THIS! You calculated the energy used based purely on the Miles driven & efficiency whereas in real life it would have used EXTRA energy for the heating and electricals in the car + energy loss during transformation etc. so the ACTUAL capacity of the battery is HIGHER than your calculation
Don’t give up your day job! Absolutely clueless!
Really worst electric car :( better buy a hyundai, kia or tesla.
Would you mind expanding on that please. Why is it the worst electric car and why are the others better?