How to change Model 3 Performance brake pads

Please forgive the shakey video, but hopefully it will help when you do this!
Tools required:
E18 Torx socket
Torque wrench (at least 85-175 Nm)
Brake pad spreader
Jack & wheel chocks
9V battery and terminals (or special EPB tool from tevo.solutions)

[@nydrell1969]

Too much effort....bad design....benz and mist Audi are waay better

[@jameshaigh3326]

Useful Video. Thanks. I have just refreshed all 4 brake discs and pads. A couple of additions:
1. Front Brakes: there is a brake hose holder attached to the Strut with a 10mm Screw. Remove this to give yourself more length to work with.
2. Front Brakes: if they have never been serviced yearly, (mine after 4 years) it is worth spending the extra time and removing the 4 Pins (T40) the inside slide faces within the caliper (against which the pads are pushed during braking) and spring clip and cleaning everything up so it is like new. Brake dust, grease, road grime and heat combine to make a hard black compound which needs a scrubbing pad to remove! The new pads will operate like factory fresh again!
3. All Brakes: on all slide surfaces apply Ceramic Grease. Not too much, but some.
4. All Brakes: To protect the red caliper paint, either wrap the caliper in a soft old cloth, and/or the sharp edges of the Stone Shield (with "Tesla" pressed in it).
5. Optional: use the opportunity and clean and treat the rust on the wheel bearing housing and the rear of the brake disc flange. Use a brass brush and a coat of phosphate rust converter, followed by a quality paint. This will cost you more time but will give a professional finish.
6. All Brakes: mark a fiducial on the two main caliper bolts before removing so you can re-torque after. (Although it is nearly impossible to go exactly back to original position, but still really tight on of course)

[@ZapMePlease]

I see that you don't pull the pins out. If the brakes are older - mine are going on 8 years - wouldn't it be wise to pull and clean the pins to make sure that there's no buildup on them that stops the pads from moving freely?

[@matt277771]

Been rewinding the motor for 5 .inutes straight and its not stopping

[@Vassenden_yt]

Thanks a lot for the video. Looks like a straight forward job. A lot less hassle than I'm used to *knock on wood*

[@drewmooinc3413]

Thank you for posting this!

[@scratchymaster]

I didn’t realize the red calipers take more effort than standard calipers for this job, thanks!

[@tevo3791]

Glad to help

[@saeedalnuaimi7469]

Can you send me the link where to buy the break pads please

[@tevo3791]

www.tevo.solutions/braking

[@integra8502]

No lubrication on the pads where they touch the caliper?

[@tevo3791]

Yes, good point. It's usual to apply a thin film of copper grease. In this case we didn't because we were swapping barely used pads for new ones so there was already some grease on the calipers and not much dust, but if replacing very worn pads it's a good idea.

[@ownedbymeeee]

If i can add to that. No good using copper grease it can cause galvanic corrosion which can eat its way into the calipers. Use ceramic paste instead which is non conductive!