Not all brake fluid reservoirs are on the drivers side. Many, if not all Peugeot and Citroen cars for example, the reservoir is on the passenger side. 👍 Interesting and well presented video either way. 👍
I've worked in dealer workshops, and on cars for many years. The information you provide here is excellent and with a guide to how to be sensitive to the mechanical parts. Really good stuff, and I haven't even finished the video. Thanks!
Yes that accent is nice indeed!! So kool!! Oh I guess I should say something about the job in hand?? So busy listening to that accent that I actually forgot about the job itself!! yeah right!!
Super clear and easy to understand and follow procedures. The explanation on the necessity of changing the brake fluid every 2 years solved my puzzle. Very informative and helpful video. Thank you very much!
Thanks very much! Before making the video, I did a lot of research. The reasoning behind brake fluid change frequency was of particular interest to me too. Thanks, Phil
Hey Phil, I'm Adrian from Yorkshire UK. I loved this video. As a trained mechanic back in 1978 I appreciate the detail you went to to produce this. The reason I watched is I was initially looking for why the dealer service (in order to preserve warranty on my 1yr. Old Mazda2) The 2nd service included a brake fluid change as well as oil &filter. At £280 I'm inclined to not do it because I'm not a performance driver and I'd rather do it myself to make sure . Thank You.
Good video. You are so correct about those bleed nozzles. Many are going to snap off no matter how long you wait using penetrating fluid or heat etc. They are just small and kind of delicate for that much torque pressure. If you take it to a shop they are not going to keep your car overnight on a lift to let the nozzles soak with a penetrating fluid. They will just let er rip then come crying to you for a new caliper. This is a job best left to DIY.
Great video 👍🏻 having standardised to ATE for all my aftermarket brake supplies, i only flush with SL.6 which is a low viscosity product designed for ESP to function in low temperatures. Worth a look and only a few quid more.
Thanks I really appreciate this. As a trained mechanic from the 1970's i got to this by wondering why I need to pay over£300 for my 2nd service on my 1 yr. Old Mazda 2 hybrid to preserve the warranty when it is only engine oil,filter and brake fluid. As im not a performance driver im inclined not to pay for something that isn't necessary. Thank You
Haha, wud u believe i not only sheered off the bleed nipple but also twisted the brake line into the rear brake drum on one side of the 1978 VW Camper 😢 But removed brake line to first junction ( 2 feet) and bought new one along with new wheel cylinder. Very cheap on Autodoc, arrived yesterday, within a week of ordering. So well done with ur job, just one thing ?? I thought u were meant to start at furthest away caliper from the reservoir, when flushing ??
Hi there! Bit of bad luck there! But I suppose on an old bus like that, even with the best will in the world seized items can shear etc. I also use Autodoc a lot, if you’re not in a huge rush, they are well priced and you often have a lot of options regrading brands etc. That’s a good point regarding the furthest away calliper, I don’t think it will make a big difference but I suppose the theory is that you would keep topping up the brake reservoir more and hence flush through more fluid? I was a little naughty and didn’t bleed the rears because I know I an going to be removing them soon for painting! Cheers!
Nice explanations, just one question, if you pump the brake pedals multiple times but don't close the bleeder valve, doesn't the fluid will be vacumed back into the brake caliper? usually people do it with someone else to close the bleeder valve. EDIT: apparently the bleeding kit features a non returning valve in it. Is it located in the black rubber part?
Thanks you! Yes, that's right, the bleeding kit has a non return. I haven't checked but I think you are right that it is in the black rubber part... Cheers, Phil
Yes I was thinking about that aspect as well, however to overcome that particular scenario I purchased a simple pressure fed system whereby you don't need to pump the brake pedal at all (you simply with the aid of this system pressurise the master cylinder instead) & more importantly, you can do this job on your own with no input or assistance duly required from anyone else period!!
I’ve seen people use a turkey Bastet or syringe to pull out fluid and drive the car for a day and repeat two or three times till brake is clean. Very easy to do.your thoughts please
Hi, I’ve heard about this too and I’ll be honest, I’m not a fan. This method will change the fluid in the reservoir but there is no mention of bleeding fluid through the brake lines to the calipers. If this isn’t done, then there will still be old fluid in those very important areas. Remember, the fluid in the lines etc doesn’t recirculate back up to the reservoir it just moves back and forth slightly during braking, so it more or less stays where it is. Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
This is how i do it. Pump and fill pump and fill. Being careful not to let the master go to low. In a hurry you can just use 1 brake line to simply get some old fluid out and some fresh fluid in.
Cheers! Yes, I’m aware there are machines for sucking up the fluid and putting it back in etc (people even do transmission fluid like that now!) but I like the old skool method 😁 cheers, Phil
it depends on which cars. Toyota and Honda hybrid, Tesla brake fluid rarely contains any moisture even after 5 years because of mild usage of brakes and low wear and drop on the fluid level from recurperate braking
Hi! Personally I don’t think it matters, as long as you bleed plenty of fluid through but “technically”, I’m told you should bleed the rears first. So I’ve been told in the comments! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide yes, I’ve always believed it’s the furthest one away first, the front of my car is up on Stands, changing some ball joints, so I’m going to put in some new rubber brake hoses and complete the front before I take it off the stands, That’s the only reason I was asking really. Cheers
Yes you do and I’m not sure how much difference it makes but someone commented that it should be rear brakes first and then the fronts. Make sure you pump through enough to clear out what is in the brake line. Cheers, Phil
Comes down to personal choice but I had this exact situation on one of my cars and didn’t change the fluid, checking the water content again next time a service is due 👍 but again, my personal view, I won’t leave it too long, even if the test comes back ok next time because theoretically, moisture could be getting into the fluid at the calliper side 🤷♂️ cheers, Phil
You can remove the excess from the reservoir using a hand pump or similar but if you don’t bleed the new fluid through to the brake callipers then the old fluid (which has been doing the work and potentially may have some water ingress through brake cylinder seals etc) in critical areas won’t be renewed. Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
Waste oil and waste brake fluid is not allowed to mix. Why? Waste oil can recicle and reuse. That´s why it is bad if there is mixed brake fluid. It ruins oil.
Not all brake fluid reservoirs are on the drivers side. Many, if not all Peugeot and Citroen cars for example, the reservoir is on the passenger side. 👍 Interesting and well presented video either way. 👍
Thank you and yes, good points above 👍 Glad you liked the vid!
I've worked in dealer workshops, and on cars for many years. The information you provide here is excellent and with a guide to how to be sensitive to the mechanical parts. Really good stuff, and I haven't even finished the video. Thanks!
Thanks so much, really appreciate the comment! 🙌😃 Cheers, Phil
Thank you so much for explaining things
You're welcome and thanks for the comment! 👍
Thanks for speaking clearly and slowly. I had no problem understanding you, despite the beautiful accent.
Thanks so much! 😊
Yes that accent is nice indeed!! So kool!! Oh I guess I should say something about the job in hand?? So busy listening to that accent that I actually forgot about the job itself!! yeah right!!
Super clear and easy to understand and follow procedures. The explanation on the necessity of changing the brake fluid every 2 years solved my puzzle. Very informative and helpful video. Thank you very much!
Thanks very much! Before making the video, I did a lot of research. The reasoning behind brake fluid change frequency was of particular interest to me too. Thanks, Phil
Hey Phil, I'm Adrian from Yorkshire UK. I loved this video. As a trained mechanic back in 1978 I appreciate the detail you went to to produce this. The reason I watched is I was initially looking for why the dealer service (in order to preserve warranty on my 1yr. Old Mazda2) The 2nd service included a brake fluid change as well as oil &filter. At £280 I'm inclined to not do it because I'm not a performance driver and I'd rather do it myself to make sure .
Thank You.
Good video. You are so correct about those bleed nozzles. Many are going to snap off no matter how long you wait using penetrating fluid or heat etc. They are just small and kind of delicate for that much torque pressure. If you take it to a shop they are not going to keep your car overnight on a lift to let the nozzles soak with a penetrating fluid. They will just let er rip then come crying to you for a new caliper. This is a job best left to DIY.
Thanks for taking the time for making the video and explaining it so well.
No probs at all! Glad you liked the vid 👍 Cheers, Phil
Great video 👍🏻 having standardised to ATE for all my aftermarket brake supplies, i only flush with SL.6 which is a low viscosity product designed for ESP to function in low temperatures. Worth a look and only a few quid more.
Thanks I really appreciate this. As a trained mechanic from the 1970's i got to this by wondering why I need to pay over£300 for my 2nd service on my 1 yr. Old Mazda 2 hybrid to preserve the warranty when it is only engine oil,filter and brake fluid.
As im not a performance driver im inclined not to pay for something that isn't necessary.
Thank You
Haha, wud u believe i not only sheered off the bleed nipple but also twisted the brake line into the rear brake drum on one side of the 1978 VW Camper 😢
But removed brake line to first junction ( 2 feet) and bought new one along with new wheel cylinder. Very cheap on Autodoc, arrived yesterday, within a week of ordering.
So well done with ur job, just one thing ??
I thought u were meant to start at furthest away caliper from the reservoir, when flushing ??
Hi there! Bit of bad luck there! But I suppose on an old bus like that, even with the best will in the world seized items can shear etc. I also use Autodoc a lot, if you’re not in a huge rush, they are well priced and you often have a lot of options regrading brands etc. That’s a good point regarding the furthest away calliper, I don’t think it will make a big difference but I suppose the theory is that you would keep topping up the brake reservoir more and hence flush through more fluid? I was a little naughty and didn’t bleed the rears because I know I an going to be removing them soon for painting! Cheers!
This was an extremely well done video
Thank you! 👍😎
Nice explanations, just one question, if you pump the brake pedals multiple times but don't close the bleeder valve, doesn't the fluid will be vacumed back into the brake caliper? usually people do it with someone else to close the bleeder valve.
EDIT: apparently the bleeding kit features a non returning valve in it. Is it located in the black rubber part?
Thanks you! Yes, that's right, the bleeding kit has a non return. I haven't checked but I think you are right that it is in the black rubber part... Cheers, Phil
Yes I was thinking about that aspect as well, however to overcome that particular scenario I purchased a simple pressure fed system whereby you don't need to pump the brake pedal at all (you simply with the aid of this system pressurise the master cylinder instead) & more importantly, you can do this job on your own with no input or assistance duly required from anyone else period!!
I have just done my x3 35d 2017 and its day and night much better. and that was after two years.
Ah ok, so seems like you saw a real difference from 2yr old fluid! Better braking performance or pedal feel? Cheers, Phil
I’ve seen people use a turkey Bastet or syringe to pull out fluid and drive the car for a day and repeat two or three times till brake is clean. Very easy to do.your thoughts please
Hi, I’ve heard about this too and I’ll be honest, I’m not a fan. This method will change the fluid in the reservoir but there is no mention of bleeding fluid through the brake lines to the calipers. If this isn’t done, then there will still be old fluid in those very important areas. Remember, the fluid in the lines etc doesn’t recirculate back up to the reservoir it just moves back and forth slightly during braking, so it more or less stays where it is. Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
good clear sensible approach.
Thank you! ☺️
Great video !
Thanks! ☺️
This is how i do it. Pump and fill pump and fill. Being careful not to let the master go to low. In a hurry you can just use 1 brake line to simply get some old fluid out and some fresh fluid in.
Sounds good! 👍
Great old school brake fluid change!
Cheers! Yes, I’m aware there are machines for sucking up the fluid and putting it back in etc (people even do transmission fluid like that now!) but I like the old skool method 😁 cheers, Phil
it depends on which cars. Toyota and Honda hybrid, Tesla brake fluid rarely contains any moisture even after 5 years because of mild usage of brakes and low wear and drop on the fluid level from recurperate braking
What about abs activaion to flush stale fluid??
Good job 👏.
Thanks!
Does it matter whether you bleed the front or rear first?
Hi! Personally I don’t think it matters, as long as you bleed plenty of fluid through but “technically”, I’m told you should bleed the rears first. So I’ve been told in the comments! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide yes, I’ve always believed it’s the furthest one away first, the front of my car is up on Stands, changing some ball joints, so I’m going to put in some new rubber brake hoses and complete the front before I take it off the stands, That’s the only reason I was asking really.
Cheers
very nice video, thank you
Cheers! Not many viewers of this vid for some reason, glad you liked it! 🙌😃
Do you have to pump the brake on all four wheels when do this fluid change
Yes you do and I’m not sure how much difference it makes but someone commented that it should be rear brakes first and then the fronts. Make sure you pump through enough to clear out what is in the brake line. Cheers, Phil
Cheers Phil
Got a few job to do on my mercedes so will be checking out your clip on the diff oil change and tranmission service
My car is 6 years old done 23 thousand miles fluid is clear no water content when i tested, should i replace it
Comes down to personal choice but I had this exact situation on one of my cars and didn’t change the fluid, checking the water content again next time a service is due 👍 but again, my personal view, I won’t leave it too long, even if the test comes back ok next time because theoretically, moisture could be getting into the fluid at the calliper side 🤷♂️ cheers, Phil
Thank you.
You're welcome! 👍
Is this the same on c class180 w204 cgi great video
Demo was on a Beemer but the process will be very similar on your Merc 👍
A really quality step by step guide. Thank you.
Thank you for the kind comment, much appreciated! 👍😁
Thanks Phil
No probs! ☺️👍
Why I can’t just pump the fluid out straight from the reservoir?
You can remove the excess from the reservoir using a hand pump or similar but if you don’t bleed the new fluid through to the brake callipers then the old fluid (which has been doing the work and potentially may have some water ingress through brake cylinder seals etc) in critical areas won’t be renewed. Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
A six point wrench or socket is worth it's weight in gold when loosening those bleeder nipples.
Absolutely! Really easy to break those little bleeders! and then the fun really begins!
ABS? Without diag?
👍👍😎😎
can I use my ex's toothbrush?
Waste oil and waste brake fluid is not allowed to mix. Why? Waste oil can recicle and reuse. That´s why it is bad if there is mixed brake fluid. It ruins oil.
Thank you, good point! I'll be disposing of the brake fluid properly in future 👍
That hair needs to be addressed.
whaaaaat... It's takes me ages to get my hair looking that good before starting to film! 😂