I assume life took over and prevented you from making more videos about this, but it would be really great to see any progress you may have made even if it's only in a short or two. Regardless, thanks for making this video!
Life definitely took over for awhile but I'm getting back into it. I never got around to building out a version 2 of this. The real challenge and weak point is the plywood I used to hold angle iron. As you'd expect, the plywood wasn't able to hold the angle iron at a 90* angle and this caused the steel rule to bend oddly so it wasn't flat.
I used to braze large dies for cutting synthetic fabric. Brazing is less prone to cracking than welds and easily melted for repairs (these were high volume production dies for the long-defunct Eden Toy Company). If you make larger dies for heavier cuts a small oxy-acetylene torch is quite handy.
Just a thought... If you turned the post embedded in the plywood 180 degrees and did the same to the piece JB welded to the nut, you could bend all the way around the stud until the steel rule circled back to itself... Increasing your current limit of 180 degrees of angle to 360. With only one point of contact welded to the nut, your challenge would then be to figure out how to securely to bond the bender to the nut.
cut a board to insert the die, that will give it shape. make a drawing on a piece of plywood for the die, cut it with a simple jigsaw. i used to do these in my garage for dirt cheap. no need for laser cutters
if you look up helmold bender dies, you will get a good idea of some good shapes. They most often use a sharper male side, with a more closed angle on the female, but then the limit the depth of stroke so it doesn't go past the angle you want. the harry rogers video uses a pepe ring bender. but like yours is not offset.
Piece of advice when using an angle grinder or circular saw never wear gloves like that. They will get snagged/caught on the blade and drag your entire hand in there and will do so with such force you can’t pull it out on time due to the gloves being pretty strong. I know people who have lost their hand and fingers from an accident like that.
Quizás es muy obvio lo que diré pero creo que tú troquel cortara más fácilmente si le sacas filo. Excelente aporte para quienes queremos hacer nuestros propios troqueles.
Oh wow, I see that this video was made 2 yrs ago, it's quite interesting, but have you done anymore videos pertaining to this type of thing. I was wondering, I have an embosser, I put plastic folders into it, it has awesome imbedded designs on them, I usually made greeting cards & tons of other things, but I am wanting to use my embosser to cut strips of faux leather to make bracelets. So, I won't have to keep cutting them all out with scissors that is taking way too much time, have you ever thought of making something like this? I'd imagine it can't be too thick, as it has to go thru the embosser, please get back to me on this, I'd love to hear back from you about your steel die bender & anything else that you have invented, thanks.
Cool idea embossing plastic folders. Regarding some ideas you might try -- there's a really cheap 45mm rotary cutter blade you can pick up at walmart. You might be able to attach this loosely (so that it rolls with the leather being cut) or statically to your embosser to cut the leather while you emboss it.
He Michael -- I got this from Amazon. You can find it searching for a push toggle and they come in various poundage. I have a few 250 lb ones on a jig I used to use to make small spring clips I was prototyping.
Hello Kit, you've mention about the 90º angle of the metal bracket, just insert 2 x 90º pieces corner aluminum strip pieces in the each metal bracket then insert your cutter blade then 2 pieces of corner aluminum, the aluminum corner are very sharp. I had the same problem in the past with galvanized sheet, and the aluminum corner fix it. Also let me know what king of metal strip you're using and own they are sharp on one end, I might be looking to built my die board. good luck
That's a great idea I'd like to try! The steel rule die is quite a heavy gauge. It would be great to see if this could be made in a lighter gauge so it's easier for hobbyists to make their own dies.
thanks for good instruction video. i have a question about cutting blade. where did you buy the cutting blade for clicker die? i can't find any sotre to buy it.
I purchased about 10 3' steel rule dies on ebay for about $60. Honestly it was great to have this around and I made quite a few small cutters for leather, such as corner cutters etc.
No, I was more looking for an middle step between hand cutting everything and purchasing a professionally made clicker die. As a hobbyist, this would be a pretty useful in-house capability.
Have you no die makers in your area who serve the packaging industry with dies for there die presses ? Surely they would knock you some designs up for next to nothing from old stock rule.
I had to go to a Canadian belt buckle company just to get a silver buckle made. American companies have became delusional with all the government handouts. These days you have better results making your own dies yourself! In my leather Hobbie I use a 3ton press and a hydrolic press to do some of my leather work. I am not spending thousands on a machine that a simple harbor freight 2 hundred dollar press will do.
There are two variations, a steel rule die bending machine, which is portable and hand powered. Or there is the steel rule bending table, which is powered by a foot. leatherworker.net/forum/topic/95395-steel-rule-die-fabrication-table/
im a die maker by trade. if u use a smaller MALE [the part thats welded onto the nut] u'll get a tighter bend. professional benders have a big enough gap under the MALE and FEMALE [the part ur bending into] allow the rule too bend all the way around. 5 months too make a little tool like u wanted is bull. the family owned company i work for turn around something that simple in 1 day and would cost about $20. we have a computerised bender that does all the work. even without it. it is still only a 10 min job for a trained die maker
I am trying to comprehend what your explaining. Are you saying that the male is the part that is putting force into the the shape (!female)? It needs to be a smaller shape? Is this what you mean by obtaining more "space', thus creating a more accurate shape? I'm just curious.
@@philsullivan3679 ruclips.net/video/HKJoyh49vdI/видео.html. this guy is using a professional bender. female is the U shaped piece. if i was doing that rectangle i would use a smaller female (eg. size 3) with a bigger male (size 8) and tap a few times while moving the rule around the male. sry Phil kinda hard too explain. hope the above vid helps
Dubjon I'm completely new to all of this, but very interested in learning. Where can I find out how to read the specs printed on a piece of steel rule? I want to understand what it all means & learning how to pick the proper steel rule & ejection foam for different jobs.
@@rocki_bb rule mainly comes in 3 thicknesses. 2point (2PT) used for under 600 micron in 18mm timber. 3point (3pt) in 15mm timber & used for thicker solid board & corrugated board(cardboard boxes) & leather. 4point (4pt) used for hard too cut materials eg.. sanding disks. Standard height is 23.80mm. When u look at the rule u will have printed 3Pt for type, 1.07 for rule width & 23.80 for height. All rule has variations on print due too different makers but those 3 bits of info will be on all rule. Which rule u use depends on type & thickness of material being cut. Hope this helps. If not try approaching a local die makers. They may be cheaper then u think for supplying a die or some scrap rule too help u get started trying ur own dies :)
@@TheDublinjm thank you so much! I've been trying to hunt down info on the basics online for a bit with little luck. It seems to be knowledgeable that's mostly acquired in the trades that use it. You been incredibly helpful! I really appreciate you replying!
I assume life took over and prevented you from making more videos about this, but it would be really great to see any progress you may have made even if it's only in a short or two. Regardless, thanks for making this video!
Life definitely took over for awhile but I'm getting back into it. I never got around to building out a version 2 of this. The real challenge and weak point is the plywood I used to hold angle iron. As you'd expect, the plywood wasn't able to hold the angle iron at a 90* angle and this caused the steel rule to bend oddly so it wasn't flat.
Clever idea I will definitely use! Thanks! …d
I used to braze large dies for cutting synthetic fabric. Brazing is less prone to cracking than welds and easily melted for repairs (these were high volume production dies for the long-defunct Eden Toy Company). If you make larger dies for heavier cuts a small oxy-acetylene torch is quite handy.
That's a great idea -- would definitely try that out if I get back to this.
Just a thought... If you turned the post embedded in the plywood 180 degrees and did the same to the piece JB welded to the nut, you could bend all the way around the stud until the steel rule circled back to itself... Increasing your current limit of 180 degrees of angle to 360. With only one point of contact welded to the nut, your challenge would then be to figure out how to securely to bond the bender to the nut.
Brilliant idea. I would probably stick weld it on. If that doesn't work I would cut one from a solid bar stock and weld that to it.
@@Slowly_Going_Mad k
I was just going to suggest the same thing.
Agreed. Then you can work a full die without the push clamp in the way.
Excellent idea 💡
Brilliant simplicity!
You can make a vegan version of your wallet as well. It's called a rubber band.
I couldn't resist.
hahah yes -- but it won't patina very well.
cut a board to insert the die, that will give it shape. make a drawing on a piece of plywood for the die, cut it with a simple jigsaw. i used to do these in my garage for dirt cheap. no need for laser cutters
if you look up helmold bender dies, you will get a good idea of some good shapes. They most often use a sharper male side, with a more closed angle on the female, but then the limit the depth of stroke so it doesn't go past the angle you want.
the harry rogers video uses a pepe ring bender. but like yours is not offset.
There is better profit in the tools than there is in the project you are creating!
Piece of advice when using an angle grinder or circular saw never wear gloves like that. They will get snagged/caught on the blade and drag your entire hand in there and will do so with such force you can’t pull it out on time due to the gloves being pretty strong. I know people who have lost their hand and fingers from an accident like that.
I dig the ingenuity, I'll have to tinker around and see if I can come up with something. I definitely agree, the angle iron needs spun around.
Yea it'd be awesome to see what you come up with!
Compress your angle iron in a vice so when it springs back its perfect
Thank you
Quizás es muy obvio lo que diré pero creo que tú troquel cortara más fácilmente si le sacas filo. Excelente aporte para quienes queremos hacer nuestros propios troqueles.
Wouldn't a Vice Clamp provide maximum press for a 90deg angle.?
Oh wow, I see that this video was made 2 yrs ago, it's quite interesting, but have you done anymore videos pertaining to this type of thing. I was wondering, I have an embosser, I put plastic folders into it, it has awesome imbedded designs on them, I usually made greeting cards & tons of other things, but I am wanting to use my embosser to cut strips of faux leather to make bracelets. So, I won't have to keep cutting them all out with scissors that is taking way too much time, have you ever thought of making something like this? I'd imagine it can't be too thick, as it has to go thru the embosser, please get back to me on this, I'd love to hear back from you about your steel die bender & anything else that you have invented, thanks.
Cool idea embossing plastic folders. Regarding some ideas you might try -- there's a really cheap 45mm rotary cutter blade you can pick up at walmart. You might be able to attach this loosely (so that it rolls with the leather being cut) or statically to your embosser to cut the leather while you emboss it.
why don't you embed the die you made in wood so it can withstand more pressure?
Great video . You are brilliant - Thank you for sharing. Where did you get your push toggle device?
Michael from Canada
He Michael -- I got this from Amazon. You can find it searching for a push toggle and they come in various poundage. I have a few 250 lb ones on a jig I used to use to make small spring clips I was prototyping.
Hello Kit, you've mention about the 90º angle of the metal bracket, just insert 2 x 90º pieces corner aluminum strip pieces in the each metal bracket then insert your cutter blade then 2 pieces of corner aluminum, the aluminum corner are very sharp. I had the same problem in the past with galvanized sheet, and the aluminum corner fix it. Also let me know what king of metal strip you're using and own they are sharp on one end, I might be looking to built my die board. good luck
That's a great idea I'd like to try! The steel rule die is quite a heavy gauge. It would be great to see if this could be made in a lighter gauge so it's easier for hobbyists to make their own dies.
thanks for good instruction video. i have a question about cutting blade.
where did you buy the cutting blade for clicker die?
i can't find any sotre to buy it.
I purchased about 10 3' steel rule dies on ebay for about $60. Honestly it was great to have this around and I made quite a few small cutters for leather, such as corner cutters etc.
Neat idea!
Thanks!
What metal did you use for the cutting walls/edge of the cutting die?
I purchased about 10 3' steel rule dies on ebay for about $60. These are already hardened and have a sharp edge on it.
Great video! Where did you get metal strip that makes the cutter??? Thanks
Search "steel rule die" on google
@@gavinsmith7224 Thank you!!!
not a lot resources for small batches of the steel rule needed. especially if shipping needed.... specific resource used would be helpful
Someone had good results finding steel rule in small quantities on Etsy.
Use press machine from harbor freight 😁
Can you help to locate a clicker die maker for leather sandals?
I use usacuttingdie.com when I need a die made and these would work great for sandals.
steel rule suppliers for small batches please
Honestly the only place I've found is ebay. It's people selling their extras/leftovers from projects.
Do you make custom clicker dies for people? TIA
No, I was more looking for an middle step between hand cutting everything and purchasing a professionally made clicker die. As a hobbyist, this would be a pretty useful in-house capability.
RUclips algorithm stalked me into suggesting this video. Thanks for the tips
What is thickness and width of steel rule die you use.
The steel rule I used was 2pt gauge (maybe 1mm) x 1/2"
ring bender
Turn your two pieces of angle iron around the other way
Definitely! They were very weak in my first iteration.
Reverse your die on your machine so that your machine is not in the way
Have you no die makers in your area who serve the packaging industry with dies for there die presses ? Surely they would knock you some designs up for next to nothing from old stock rule.
I'm not sure but I'd love to have a local connect for this. How would I find them?
I had to go to a Canadian belt buckle company just to get a silver buckle made. American companies have became delusional with all the government handouts. These days you have better results making your own dies yourself! In my leather Hobbie I use a 3ton press and a hydrolic press to do some of my leather work. I am not spending thousands on a machine that a simple harbor freight 2 hundred dollar press will do.
What are the machines called?
There are two variations, a steel rule die bending machine, which is portable and hand powered. Or there is the steel rule bending table, which is powered by a foot. leatherworker.net/forum/topic/95395-steel-rule-die-fabrication-table/
hi i am a professional die/knife bender i can produce all shapes and sizes of blade from 23.80-100mm high blade if this is any help to anyone
Your contact, please.
im a die maker by trade. if u use a smaller MALE [the part thats welded onto the nut] u'll get a tighter bend. professional benders have a big enough gap under the MALE and FEMALE [the part ur bending into] allow the rule too bend all the way around. 5 months too make a little tool like u wanted is bull. the family owned company i work for turn around something that simple in 1 day and would cost about $20. we have a computerised bender that does all the work. even without it. it is still only a 10 min job for a trained die maker
I am trying to comprehend what your explaining. Are you saying that the male is the part that is putting force into the the shape (!female)? It needs to be a smaller shape? Is this what you mean by obtaining more "space', thus creating a more accurate shape? I'm just curious.
@@philsullivan3679 ruclips.net/video/HKJoyh49vdI/видео.html. this guy is using a professional bender. female is the U shaped piece. if i was doing that rectangle i would use a smaller female (eg. size 3) with a bigger male (size 8) and tap a few times while moving the rule around the male. sry Phil kinda hard too explain. hope the above vid helps
Dubjon I'm completely new to all of this, but very interested in learning. Where can I find out how to read the specs printed on a piece of steel rule?
I want to understand what it all means & learning how to pick the proper steel rule & ejection foam for different jobs.
@@rocki_bb rule mainly comes in 3 thicknesses. 2point (2PT) used for under 600 micron in 18mm timber. 3point (3pt) in 15mm timber & used for thicker solid board & corrugated board(cardboard boxes) & leather. 4point (4pt) used for hard too cut materials eg.. sanding disks. Standard height is 23.80mm. When u look at the rule u will have printed 3Pt for type, 1.07 for rule width & 23.80 for height. All rule has variations on print due too different makers but those 3 bits of info will be on all rule. Which rule u use depends on type & thickness of material being cut. Hope this helps. If not try approaching a local die makers. They may be cheaper then u think for supplying a die or some scrap rule too help u get started trying ur own dies :)
@@TheDublinjm thank you so much! I've been trying to hunt down info on the basics online for a bit with little luck. It seems to be knowledgeable that's mostly acquired in the trades that use it. You been incredibly helpful!
I really appreciate you replying!
ing bender better
You do realize you need to heat treat the dies right? I definitely don’t think this is good enough for leather.