The device above the thermostat housing, in the bracket, is the deceleration mixture control valve. Without the smaller vacuum line connected to it it isn't doing anything, you can remove the larger vacuum line from the manifold and cap it. When there is a momentary high vacuum spike from lifting off throttle that device will introduce a small amount of fresh filtered air from the bottom of it through the large vacuum line into the intake manifold to offset the rich spike caused by that. You may not even benefit from it with the propane conversion, I kept it when I converted to a Weber though. It doesn't rob any power, is totally passive and can help drivability so why not? Cheers!
I run a fail-safe 160* ( trail riding, slower speeds I want it to open sooner) your propane converter water needs to be separate and not restrictive. the heater core is selective. you can add a gas ball valve to manually open/close as needed. or replace the valve (75.00 +/-)
I did the same mod on my heater core box, but used a piece of aluminum heat tape to cover the hole. My defrost barely works too and I think I might have to take the dash apart to figure out how to fix that. Mine was full of pine needles.... like a ton of pine needles.
Yet again another good video...wish my heater wasn't removed by the previous owner...living I'm Michigan I'm going to look at other options probably 12v...just for fall trips
Instead of connecting the water tubes directly to bypass the faulty valve you can install a small shut off valve which you can open in winter and close in summer
If you just turn the fan there should be a little resistance and should not spin freely. That's how I thought you check the fan clutch. Maybe i'm wrong? I replaced my control valve. Pretty easy, $70 bucks Great content👍
The blower fan resistor is not allowing you to get all your fan speeds. It is up near the top of the duct housing on the drivers side. Also I would take the heat selector valve off on the fire wall and clean and lube it well. Mine had little bits of RTV stuck in it and wasn't allowing for a good flow. Just unbolt the 2 10mms and unclip the control wire. You can manually open and close it and look into the port that's pointed towards the heater core and check for debris.
That's a good idea. I was thinking about ordering a new one, but maybe I can get it back to working condition. The propane kit came with 2 "Y" connectors so you can split the coolant flow between the engine and heater core. That is probably a good option too. 🤙🏻
Hey I got me one of those long dryer vent brushes real soft and a can of coil cleaner for outside ac units did holes sprayed cleaner brushed it rinsed it she get warm and I have bikini top with back curtain from side by side. Liv in wv we get some snow and cold weather. Also my switch on fire wall bypassed for years. And heat only works on certain settings can’t remember without going out and looking it’s cold out now 3 am lol. Thanks for video’s love he channel long time subscriber. Stay safe from ur ole hillbilly buddy.
@@FortuneOffRoad thats how mines set up now, i can over ride on and over ride off, ive so far, in the 8 or 9 years of having it that way, never ever used the over ride off
I had the opposite problem. My Sammy was running cooler and had trouble maintaining normal operating temp. I switched to a 190 thermostat, now the needle stays exactly in the middle
The device above the thermostat housing, in the bracket, is the deceleration mixture control valve. Without the smaller vacuum line connected to it it isn't doing anything, you can remove the larger vacuum line from the manifold and cap it. When there is a momentary high vacuum spike from lifting off throttle that device will introduce a small amount of fresh filtered air from the bottom of it through the large vacuum line into the intake manifold to offset the rich spike caused by that.
You may not even benefit from it with the propane conversion, I kept it when I converted to a Weber though. It doesn't rob any power, is totally passive and can help drivability so why not? Cheers!
Good info! Thank-you
Some heated seat inserts from Amazon might be a good idea for some snow wheeling!
Excellent idea!
@10:12. The defroster feels weak because the control is not set to defrost.
I run a fail-safe 160* ( trail riding, slower speeds I want it to open sooner) your propane converter water needs to be separate and not restrictive. the heater core is selective. you can add a gas ball valve to manually open/close as needed. or replace the valve (75.00 +/-)
I did the same mod on my heater core box, but used a piece of aluminum heat tape to cover the hole. My defrost barely works too and I think I might have to take the dash apart to figure out how to fix that. Mine was full of pine needles.... like a ton of pine needles.
Yeah eventually mine will come out too! This heater action will work for now though 🤘🏻
Yet again another good video...wish my heater wasn't removed by the previous owner...living I'm Michigan I'm going to look at other options probably 12v...just for fall trips
Thanks! Yeah that sounds cold in Michigan. I took a buddy heater one time. I can't recommend it! 😁
Instead of connecting the water tubes directly to bypass the faulty valve you can install a small shut off valve which you can open in winter and close in summer
That's what I'm thinking of doing later 🤙🏻
Hello just done the hole saw heater box cut and cleaned it out wasn’t real dirty.
If you just turn the fan there should be a little resistance and should not spin freely. That's how I thought you check the fan clutch. Maybe i'm wrong? I replaced my control valve. Pretty easy, $70 bucks Great content👍
The blower fan resistor is not allowing you to get all your fan speeds. It is up near the top of the duct housing on the drivers side.
Also I would take the heat selector valve off on the fire wall and clean and lube it well. Mine had little bits of RTV stuck in it and wasn't allowing for a good flow. Just unbolt the 2 10mms and unclip the control wire. You can manually open and close it and look into the port that's pointed towards the heater core and check for debris.
That's a good idea. I was thinking about ordering a new one, but maybe I can get it back to working condition. The propane kit came with 2 "Y" connectors so you can split the coolant flow between the engine and heater core. That is probably a good option too. 🤙🏻
You can put a piece of aluminum mesh gutter screen over the air intake at the base of the windshield to keep most of the junk out.
That's a good idea! I think I'll find a cover for it and put some mesh in there 🤙🏻
مساء الخير
مبدع وكذلك تعليقك مبسط. تمنياتي لك بالتوفيق
Good evening Creative and your comment is simplified. wish you success
Hey I got me one of those long dryer vent brushes real soft and a can of coil cleaner for outside ac units did holes sprayed cleaner brushed it rinsed it she get warm and I have bikini top with back curtain from side by side. Liv in wv we get some snow and cold weather. Also my switch on fire wall bypassed for years. And heat only works on certain settings can’t remember without going out and looking it’s cold out now 3 am lol. Thanks for video’s love he channel long time subscriber. Stay safe from ur ole hillbilly buddy.
I'm sure you could run a separate loop to the propane regulator. If you don't replace that heater valve you are going to have a hot foot.
Definitely! I need to look into that
Hello sir, very nice to your video. Can i know what carburetor have you use at your samurai? Thank you very much 🥰
I don't have a carburetor since I swapped to propane. It comes with a mixer that has a butterfly valve in it
Hi there. Did you install the LROR rock sliders?
Yeah if you look in my Samurai build Playlist there is a video
Saw it earlier today and yes the jack nuts suck. Looking to potentially use a rivtool for the second side
Ate you in nor cal? I'm in Rocklin. I plan on going to Zukicon. Had questions about a few things. You mind talking?
Cool! DM me on Instagram 🤙🏻
i think im going to go back to mechanical fan on mine, electric works to keep from over heating but doesnt really control the heat that well
I thought about that too. It would be nice to stop it from spinning for water crossings.
@@FortuneOffRoad thats how mines set up now, i can over ride on and over ride off, ive so far, in the 8 or 9 years of having it that way, never ever used the over ride off
Snow wheeling you say??
Why didn't you change out the water pump?
Trying to go simplest first. Most people said an aluminum radiator would be the next thing. If that doesn't solve it we'll try the water pump next
what coolant do you use?
Prestone green premixed 50/50
Hello! What model is this carburetor!
Propane mixer from GotPropane.com
@@FortuneOffRoad Does this carburetor also work on gasoline, or only on gas?
I had the opposite problem. My Sammy was running cooler and had trouble maintaining normal operating temp. I switched to a 190 thermostat, now the needle stays exactly in the middle
Nice! That's a good problem to have. Did you go with a failsafe or normal thermostat?
@@FortuneOffRoadsome random one from auto part store. I didn't know about Fail safe
I had same problem had a fail safe thermostat and it was stuck open. Caused no heat and loss of choke on the cold mornings.
How much lift?
About 5" with a spring over
Replace the heater control valve!!! It pays to have things work correctly.
I may do that... right now it works great!
I'd definitely pull that heater box out and give it s good clean , I can imagine a load of mouse hair and pooh blowing at your face when off roading.
Some day I might. I only use the floor heat right now 😷