Propane sounds interesting. I've tried all 3 carby set ups and honestly the best budget carby mod is to strip back the original carb and re jet. Re jet the carb and it will run better than the Weber but on all angles. A small change for big impact. For any one curious Original 1.3 jets - primary .99, secondary 105 Re jetted to - primary 105, secondary 115
@@kabbythedog9409 first thing to check is wether you have the Aisan or Hitachi carb? They will have different carb rebuild kits and there may be variations to the design and jetting. I haven't worked with the Hitachi but I'm sure would still work if applied to it's design. If you're able to remove emission components and maintain road registration or without penalty, than there is ALOT of the carb gear that can be removed which removes most of the complicated junk that makes them run crappy. If so I could somehow provide a picture of mine as it could be easily replicated from it.
@@kabbythedog9409 as for the mod, Ebay-mikuni main jets - the round type with the slotted/flat head screw if you have the Aisan carb. otherwise open carb remove, identify and look for the right ones ,slightly larger than in the carb. -depending on location and altitude, I would get a kit or individuals which include #100, 105,110,115,120 jets Ebay- carb rebuild kit to suit your carb once identified EBay or local supplier - basic vaccum guage to tune it when your finished * when removing the top of the carb to get to the jets, do not turn the carb upside down as you will lose a very important and very small spring, ball, and cap that sit between the 2 pieces. Keep it upright on a clean table with a clean floor just incase. Take as many pics for reference as possible as they will be your reassembly guide. Go slow and be patient. There's lots of good you tube videos about general carb basics (uncle tony is good) as well as the vacuum guage tuning procedure. Feel free to hit me up for more info or help. Don't be intimidated, they're complicated to begin with but if you can wrap your head around how they work and why than they become much less confusing and much more exciting to work with as all you need to tune is a guage and a couple of screwdrivers.
Great video, the propane sounds choice, hmmm, good tip on the spacers I definitely won't do that because I'm obsessed with my tire and linkage health and one more thing to think about would not jive.
Agree, and have the same (or close enough alternatives). 6++... Winch, lockers, GM CS130 105 amp alternator, seats, power/electric steering... the list never ends, which is why I love tinkering on my Samurai
Lift, gears, tires, lockers, winch, and of course a 1.6L 16v engine swap….. which I just started filming a video on and will be dropping in the next few days. Good video Kyle
The 1.6 8v is usually more available and doesn't require a complete donor vehicle. The intake from the 1.3 bolts right up and uses the same exhaust manifold or headers. Along with a few other modifications, the 1.6 8v has the least financial impact. Add a sidedraft carb, weber 38 or possibly the sniper efi and you're on your way to stepping up performance. Getting lower tcase gears also help when adding larger tires. My 6.5:1 work great on my 33s mud terrains and I at least go 65 in 5th gear most of the time at 3200 rpms. Also the 1.6 8v is a non interference motor, so if the timing belt snaps, then it's still good. The 16v snaps, then the engine is toast. Some say the 8v has more low end torque too.
@@20tea I'm not disagreeing with you about the 8v, but there are no available 8V's in Alaska, there are still 16V's. Keeping something carbureted to me isn't even an upgrade, EFI is a huge upgrade in everyway. BTW the 16V out of a sidekick is not an interference motor, you can turn the crank sprocket all the way over independent of the crank with the timing belt off and the valves don't come into contact with the crank. The cars had interference motors.... NOT the trucks.
@CTMadModz That's new knowledge for me so thank you! I have always believed they were interference motors, buy I stand corrected. Well the 1.6 8v is much more available here in Washington state and it takes a lot less effort to swap. I happened to have 3 laying around as backup. There is also plenty of power I get out of my 8v with the weber 38, cam and headers for low-end torque. I also have a Suzuki x90 with the 1.6 16 valve and a Geo tracker with the 1.6 8v tbi. I noticed differences, but for the money and effort, the 1.6 8v isn't something to sneeze at. It's very easy to tune engine upgrades without a computer and when out on the trail with simple hand tools. Parts are cheaper and easier to find as well. Efi/mpi suzuki parts are getting harder to locate and replace for what has failed over years of use whereas Weber/Harley carbs and the sniper efi are more easily accessible from my experience.
The Certified Machine 3K runs awesome. Installed one out here in Southern Spain. Lots of hillsides and mountains and never hsd a stall. I don't crawl but even normal trails get steep.
@@FortuneOffRoad Certified Machine offer a good product. The carb will run you about +200$ but it is put through tests and ajusted before sale and shipping. I've seen guys buy 50€ 3k carbs and have it run great on the first install. Other guys go through installing 3 or 4 50$ 3k carbs before getting one that works. Certified Machine kinda eliminates that uncertainty.
@@FortuneOffRoad I had a lwb Suzuki SJ413 a few years to which l added front and rear ARB lockers, power steering, 6.5 to 1 low range gears, hd axle shafts and a hd clutch running on 30" tires, it was excellent offroad and all on the 1.3 engine but with fuel injection.
ive daily driven mine and one of the things i did easy to do and for daily if you drive a lot deffenitly helps out the stock 12v outlet is the worst ive seen plug in your phone probebly like 30hours to fully charge so ive bought those 12v outlet boxes cut off the plug and wire it on the back of the radio on the continues power wires with a switch phone charges way faster then you have multiple new good working 12v outlets you can even buy the with usb charging port
Its kinda cool seeing how different areas and driving suggest different mods first. I run with a bunch of UTVs. For what I do with my rig, top 5 would be - no joke - lighting first, OME 1.5" springs SPUA, selectable lockers, 235/75r15 tires, then bumpers and recovery gear. I have a lot of fire roads and desert trails. Where I go, lighting becomes an issue. We will make our way through the desert easily 60 miles off pavement. when night falls, washes and hidden obstacles make it so we have to do 20mph just because of limited vision distance and stopping distance when only using the stock lights. Toss a light bar on then we're good to 40mph. then the OME kit has softer than stock springs, and more up travel. Those two things make it so we can push a little harder and faster without bottoming out while hauling butt, then when we get in the rocks and washes it flexes well enough without losing the approach angle with YJ springs and keeping a low COG for the really, REALLY off camber stuff we can find. Ground clearance usually isn't an issue for me being as my samurai already closely matches a UTV. So yeah, its interesting. Different goals, different mods.
A pan hard bar is a good one if you do an engine swap and longer springs. I’ve got a ka24de out of a Nissan 240sx and they’re only about 130 hp but the extra torque just causes terrible axle wrap
I rock a sj410 with the f10a engine and the stock aisin carb is very good offroad, I have no issues at all with stalling in weird angels but I guess a different carb could give it a little bit more power on the highway, but im not taking any chances with weber carbs
Funny how you can't pass smog in California with propane conversion even though it burns way cleaner than it did from the factory. Did you notice any difference in on road stability when you went to the longer springs in front?
Yeah makes no sense. CA is a tough state to live in if you have any Jonny, I swear. The rears up front are definitely softer so you can get some sway easily. I would put one more full leaf in my pack to drive on road. Once I did hydraulic assist steering the ram fighting the swat made it un-drivable past 25mph. Sway bar would probably fix it. 🤙🏻
My samurai is a long wheelbase and a daily drive . Can I safely use missing link shackles with stock springs up front only and keep the rear springs setup as it is ? Will she handle well on highways ? I have a hydraulic power steering .
As long as you have a missing link kit, I think it would be great. You can either do just shackles and stock front springs, or a full kit and use stock rear springs in the front. If you try the rears I would use a sway bar
Most of the people that talk bad about revolver shackles are just parroting what they read on a forum post from 2012 and have never even ran them. Cool video, one day I wanna pick one of these up for a little cruiser and light wheeler. Just have to drive south to find one, all the ones here are rotten
Yeah I could see that. My YJ had them front and rear and they did some weird stuff in the rocks. Definitely didn't act like my Samurai ones. The Samurai bodies are so thin that any rust is probably going cause a lot of damage. Get one! 🤘🏻
This is obviously from someone that has never owned a lite weight samurai and obviously never wheeled one or owned 20 different ones over 25 years and built over 45 for other people ! Revolvers unload way to easy on a samurai and do not work because of the spring weight on the samurai . Best carb for a samurai is a Harley Davidson side draft . My-Side by Zuks Off Road is the best set up . Otherwise the best set up is a Efi set up off a 1.6 8 valve sidekick engine . Remove the intake and transfers it to the 1.3 ,use the wiring and ecm . Gears . Can swap gears from sidekicks and trackers and lower rear end gears from stock 3:73’s in Zuk . Run a 4:30-1 or a 6:5-1 t case gear set and run up to 35” tires . Jeep Yj springs rear with rear zuk springs up front is your best spring set up for ride ,control ,flex and handling Offroad . Nothing else beats it . Works every time . Crown Vic shocks for the win . Old school zuk guys that’s been around for 20-25 years and wheels these day in day out and don’t just key board wheel but actually build what they wheel can tell you how to build a great ,useable samurai .
Can you list the current setup for your suspension? Do you plan on changing anything or is the best setup you've found for leafs? I'm trying to copy your setup but not sure the exact front spring part number. I saw on your other video that you wounded the missing links backwards with the bump stops. Is that still your current? Thanks for sharing and making these awesome videos!
Pretty good setup for leaf springs and to keep it relatively low. 2" bonzeye springs rear and rear springs with 2 extra leafs and missing link shackles up front. Works with 33s and a lot of articulation well.
Great explanation, wish you could learn from what I had done on my Samurai to share to other Samurai owner out there Kyle. Great, keep up the good work.
So we ended up getting it, now, is there anyone near Denver who can do some of these improvements? Rides like a tank and needs some hp improvement to break 50 mph! 🤣
I am now looking at a Samurai as a towed vehicle and am new to this and the GeoTracker.We want to do very limited 4 wheeling. Read the info about their tipping and started to get concerned. I am currently looking at a "94, is this something to be alarmed about or is it folklore ;-) Trackers are supposed a bit wider but it is harder to get good info. I know this question is way off your videos but you seemed like the one to ask!
It's a legitimate concern to have, but they're just like Jeeps. Once you lift them they are easier to tip over. I don't think there is any real concern though; I've never met anyone who has rolled one.
@Fortune Off-Road Had driven and wheeled my Samurai for nearly 20 years and never came close to tipping on cornering, but only from heavy articulation on opposite ends. Drive knowing that your center of gravity is higher is all. Between the two, for mild wheeling,costs efficiency and comfort, the tracker/sidekick would be more reasonable.
Hey Kyle, if I was wanting to come to the Zukicon at the rubicon is there someone who is in charge of the whole thing? I live in Canada so would be a long trek down. Are there requirements that need to be met to run the trail? Any fees? Id like to go with a group since it would be my first time there. Seems like going with a bunch of samurais would be awesome
The event is free an no requirements. You definitely need a lift and at least 31s and lockers. It's going to be a challenge to get through but plenty of people to help. Amber Turner usually runs it. You can find the event on Facebook once she builds it. 👍🏻
hey, i got a sj410 and its completely stock. its killing my back and im searching for a solution without changing the ride height but i cant find anything. can anyone help me? xD
No, those are monotube right now. They are angled in due to the small space. I always try to think about future plans and I didn't want to waste the money on that upgrade since next I'll be outboarding the shocks when I do an axle swap. 🤘🏻
Usually propane does worse in cars, but slow trail riding at low RPMs get about 10% better. If you were to drive it on the road like a normal car, it would probably be about 10-15% worse. Much cheaper than gasoline in my area, so it would still save money.
Planning on driving on the road? It's nice to be able to drive to the trail in back, plus running errands. Extra car of one of yours breaks down, etc. But those SXS' are very capable machines!
I'd rather spend a few grand and engine swap than put a gas conversion in. Zooks are already unsafe in crashes. No need to turn mine into a tactical nuke with gas bottles.
Propane is literally the safest form of fuel for a vehicle. Propane has a narrow flammability range, and its tanks are 20 times more puncture-resistant than gasoline tanks. So if you want something more dangerous, go with gasoline; the tanks puncture easily and have a gnarly flashpoint 🤯
You missed out on lockers , samurai has open diffs ,lockers are very much amongst the top 5 mods . Any kind of lockers ....as per your budget
So many options!
Lockers before lift
Propane sounds interesting.
I've tried all 3 carby set ups and honestly the best budget carby mod is to strip back the original carb and re jet.
Re jet the carb and it will run better than the Weber but on all angles.
A small change for big impact.
For any one curious
Original 1.3 jets - primary .99, secondary 105
Re jetted to - primary 105, secondary 115
Good info!
You got a link for them parts I just picked one up 1.3 with headers, just learning about carbs 😳
@@kabbythedog9409 first thing to check is wether you have the Aisan or Hitachi carb? They will have different carb rebuild kits and there may be variations to the design and jetting. I haven't worked with the Hitachi but I'm sure would still work if applied to it's design.
If you're able to remove emission components and maintain road registration or without penalty, than there is ALOT of the carb gear that can be removed which removes most of the complicated junk that makes them run crappy. If so I could somehow provide a picture of mine as it could be easily replicated from it.
@@kabbythedog9409 as for the mod,
Ebay-mikuni main jets - the round type with the slotted/flat head screw if you have the Aisan carb. otherwise open carb remove, identify and look for the right ones ,slightly larger than in the carb.
-depending on location and altitude, I would get a kit or individuals which include #100, 105,110,115,120 jets
Ebay- carb rebuild kit to suit your carb once identified
EBay or local supplier - basic vaccum guage to tune it when your finished
* when removing the top of the carb to get to the jets, do not turn the carb upside down as you will lose a very important and very small spring, ball, and cap that sit between the 2 pieces. Keep it upright on a clean table with a clean floor just incase.
Take as many pics for reference as possible as they will be your reassembly guide.
Go slow and be patient.
There's lots of good you tube videos about general carb basics (uncle tony is good) as well as the vacuum guage tuning procedure.
Feel free to hit me up for more info or help.
Don't be intimidated, they're complicated to begin with but if you can wrap your head around how they work and why than they become much less confusing and much more exciting to work with as all you need to tune is a guage and a couple of screwdrivers.
@@ryanfp5657 copy copy thanks, little tougher than a snowmobile carb i'm sure i can get it back together
Great video, the propane sounds choice, hmmm, good tip on the spacers I definitely won't do that because I'm obsessed with my tire and linkage health and one more thing to think about would not jive.
Turning the rims around makes it stand out and fix the problem without using spacers
Agree, and have the same (or close enough alternatives).
6++...
Winch, lockers, GM CS130 105 amp alternator, seats, power/electric steering... the list never ends, which is why I love tinkering on my Samurai
Same! Maybe I should've done top 10!
California at its best. Illegal to make your truck more efficient and less polluting! Great suggestions!
California is on the struggle bus! 🤕
Hell yeah got a samurai love mine got the same shackles on Jeep springs I can pin the needle down on the speedo with a 1.6 and on 33s
That 1.6 is a good upgrade! I pin it sng go 30mph 😬
1.6 8v here Torque monster compared to 1.3
Lift, gears, tires, lockers, winch, and of course a 1.6L 16v engine swap….. which I just started filming a video on and will be dropping in the next few days. Good video Kyle
Thanks dude, I'm watching them
The 1.6 8v is usually more available and doesn't require a complete donor vehicle. The intake from the 1.3 bolts right up and uses the same exhaust manifold or headers. Along with a few other modifications, the 1.6 8v has the least financial impact. Add a sidedraft carb, weber 38 or possibly the sniper efi and you're on your way to stepping up performance. Getting lower tcase gears also help when adding larger tires. My 6.5:1 work great on my 33s mud terrains and I at least go 65 in 5th gear most of the time at 3200 rpms. Also the 1.6 8v is a non interference motor, so if the timing belt snaps, then it's still good. The 16v snaps, then the engine is toast. Some say the 8v has more low end torque too.
@@20tea I'm not disagreeing with you about the 8v, but there are no available 8V's in Alaska, there are still 16V's. Keeping something carbureted to me isn't even an upgrade, EFI is a huge upgrade in everyway. BTW the 16V out of a sidekick is not an interference motor, you can turn the crank sprocket all the way over independent of the crank with the timing belt off and the valves don't come into contact with the crank. The cars had interference motors.... NOT the trucks.
@CTMadModz That's new knowledge for me so thank you! I have always believed they were interference motors, buy I stand corrected. Well the 1.6 8v is much more available here in Washington state and it takes a lot less effort to swap. I happened to have 3 laying around as backup. There is also plenty of power I get out of my 8v with the weber 38, cam and headers for low-end torque. I also have a Suzuki x90 with the 1.6 16 valve and a Geo tracker with the 1.6 8v tbi. I noticed differences, but for the money and effort, the 1.6 8v isn't something to sneeze at. It's very easy to tune engine upgrades without a computer and when out on the trail with simple hand tools. Parts are cheaper and easier to find as well. Efi/mpi suzuki parts are getting harder to locate and replace for what has failed over years of use whereas Weber/Harley carbs and the sniper efi are more easily accessible from my experience.
So I am currently putting a efi1.6 8v in my 92 efi samurai and having trouble finding and 1.6 efi would the sniper efi work and if so which one?
The Certified Machine 3K runs awesome. Installed one out here in Southern Spain. Lots of hillsides and mountains and never hsd a stall. I don't crawl but even normal trails get steep.
I've heard a lot of good things about 3k
@@FortuneOffRoad Certified Machine offer a good product. The carb will run you about +200$ but it is put through tests and ajusted before sale and shipping. I've seen guys buy 50€ 3k carbs and have it run great on the first install. Other guys go through installing 3 or 4 50$ 3k carbs before getting one that works. Certified Machine kinda eliminates that uncertainty.
installed 3K carb from Certified Machine last week. Easy install.
Good explanations of the mods and their purpose or effect!
Thanks dude!
@@FortuneOffRoad I had a lwb Suzuki SJ413 a few years to which l added front and rear ARB lockers, power steering, 6.5 to 1 low range gears, hd axle shafts and a hd clutch running on 30" tires, it was excellent offroad and all on the 1.3 engine but with fuel injection.
@@clooperman3745 Sounds like a cool setup. I love the LWB ones!
ive daily driven mine and one of the things i did easy to do and for daily if you drive a lot deffenitly helps out the stock 12v outlet is the worst ive seen plug in your phone probebly like 30hours to fully charge so ive bought those 12v outlet boxes cut off the plug and wire it on the back of the radio on the continues power wires with a switch phone charges way faster then you have multiple new good working 12v outlets you can even buy the with usb charging port
Great idea
great video. 94 samari my fuel pump went out and used a 1.7 fuel pump .
runs a little rich always starts.
Nice!
Its kinda cool seeing how different areas and driving suggest different mods first. I run with a bunch of UTVs. For what I do with my rig, top 5 would be - no joke - lighting first, OME 1.5" springs SPUA, selectable lockers, 235/75r15 tires, then bumpers and recovery gear. I have a lot of fire roads and desert trails. Where I go, lighting becomes an issue. We will make our way through the desert easily 60 miles off pavement. when night falls, washes and hidden obstacles make it so we have to do 20mph just because of limited vision distance and stopping distance when only using the stock lights. Toss a light bar on then we're good to 40mph. then the OME kit has softer than stock springs, and more up travel. Those two things make it so we can push a little harder and faster without bottoming out while hauling butt, then when we get in the rocks and washes it flexes well enough without losing the approach angle with YJ springs and keeping a low COG for the really, REALLY off camber stuff we can find. Ground clearance usually isn't an issue for me being as my samurai already closely matches a UTV. So yeah, its interesting. Different goals, different mods.
Yeah, exactly. Terrain, driving ability, primary use, etc... All different
A pan hard bar is a good one if you do an engine swap and longer springs. I’ve got a ka24de out of a Nissan 240sx and they’re only about 130 hp but the extra torque just causes terrible axle wrap
Go big or go home ! 40s and tons. Can’t wait to see it
😬
I rock a sj410 with the f10a engine and the stock aisin carb is very good offroad, I have no issues at all with stalling in weird angels but I guess a different carb could give it a little bit more power on the highway, but im not taking any chances with weber carbs
Yeah I wouldn't either!
That’s a pretty cool samurai in the beginning of the video. Lol. Great video!
I recommend versa electric steering big improvement in my own opinion
I hear that electric steering is killer
Funny how you can't pass smog in California with propane conversion even though it burns way cleaner than it did from the factory. Did you notice any difference in on road stability when you went to the longer springs in front?
Yeah makes no sense. CA is a tough state to live in if you have any Jonny, I swear. The rears up front are definitely softer so you can get some sway easily. I would put one more full leaf in my pack to drive on road. Once I did hydraulic assist steering the ram fighting the swat made it un-drivable past 25mph. Sway bar would probably fix it. 🤙🏻
Lets get a top 20!
I'm considering doing another since there are so many good mods
My samurai is a long wheelbase and a daily drive . Can I safely use missing link shackles with stock springs up front only and keep the rear springs setup as it is ? Will she handle well on highways ? I have a hydraulic power steering .
As long as you have a missing link kit, I think it would be great. You can either do just shackles and stock front springs, or a full kit and use stock rear springs in the front. If you try the rears I would use a sway bar
Good choices, definitely all comes down to what you plan to use your rig for! 👍🏼
Exactly right! That's why I wanted to make this type of video too; I knew it was going to be different.
My off reading is mud only- no rocks! I need all 4 tires pulling . Is this possible?
You could throw some lunchbox lockers in both ends. I have a video that covers it 🤙🏻
The very first mod to do that no one seems to mention is a header and 2 inch exhaust.
Yeah thats a fun one too!
Most of the people that talk bad about revolver shackles are just parroting what they read on a forum post from 2012 and have never even ran them. Cool video, one day I wanna pick one of these up for a little cruiser and light wheeler. Just have to drive south to find one, all the ones here are rotten
Yeah I could see that. My YJ had them front and rear and they did some weird stuff in the rocks. Definitely didn't act like my Samurai ones. The Samurai bodies are so thin that any rust is probably going cause a lot of damage. Get one! 🤘🏻
This is obviously from someone that has never owned a lite weight samurai and obviously never wheeled one or owned 20 different ones over 25 years and built over 45 for other people !
Revolvers unload way to easy on a samurai and do not work because of the spring weight on the samurai .
Best carb for a samurai is a Harley Davidson side draft . My-Side by Zuks Off Road is the best set up . Otherwise the best set up is a Efi set up off a 1.6 8 valve sidekick engine . Remove the intake and transfers it to the 1.3 ,use the wiring and ecm .
Gears . Can swap gears from sidekicks and trackers and lower rear end gears from stock 3:73’s in Zuk . Run a 4:30-1 or a 6:5-1 t case gear set and run up to 35” tires .
Jeep Yj springs rear with rear zuk springs up front is your best spring set up for ride ,control ,flex and handling Offroad . Nothing else beats it . Works every time . Crown Vic shocks for the win . Old school zuk guys that’s been around for 20-25 years and wheels these day in day out and don’t just key board wheel but actually build what they wheel can tell you how to build a great ,useable samurai .
Can you list the current setup for your suspension? Do you plan on changing anything or is the best setup you've found for leafs? I'm trying to copy your setup but not sure the exact front spring part number. I saw on your other video that you wounded the missing links backwards with the bump stops. Is that still your current? Thanks for sharing and making these awesome videos!
Pretty good setup for leaf springs and to keep it relatively low. 2" bonzeye springs rear and rear springs with 2 extra leafs and missing link shackles up front. Works with 33s and a lot of articulation well.
@@FortuneOffRoad are the rear bonzeye springs for up front?
@ZimZam78 no they are samurai rear 2" bonzeye
@Fortune Off-Road okay gotcha. So stock rears up front with 2 extra leafs. Thanks for clarification. Awesome channel!
Great video ty!
Awesome, thanks!
Hey can you tell me what things have you added in building it i want your guidance. I also want to build one thanks
I released a walkaround video not too long ago. You can watch that and get some ideas, I'm sure!
Do u think a 1.6 swap would be good for more torque..that Naturally aspirated engine is better than 1.3 carb
I do! A lot of people use those and seem to be happy
Did I hear you right, you but a set of rear leaf spring on the front?
That's correct. It's a great upgrade that doesn't cost much! ruclips.net/video/P5H9qVDumhw/видео.html
Great explanation, wish you could learn from what I had done on my Samurai to share to other Samurai owner out there Kyle. Great, keep up the good work.
Thanks! Lots of info to share with the next generation
So we ended up getting it, now, is there anyone near Denver who can do some of these improvements? Rides like a tank and needs some hp improvement to break 50 mph! 🤣
I am now looking at a Samurai as a towed vehicle and am new to this and the GeoTracker.We want to do very limited 4 wheeling. Read the info about their tipping and started to get concerned. I am currently looking at a "94, is this something to be alarmed about or is it folklore ;-) Trackers are supposed a bit wider but it is harder to get good info. I know this question is way off your videos but you seemed like the one to ask!
It's a legitimate concern to have, but they're just like Jeeps. Once you lift them they are easier to tip over. I don't think there is any real concern though; I've never met anyone who has rolled one.
@@FortuneOffRoad Thank you for the reply, shortly after I wrote this I ran across this ruclips.net/video/w3sGkP8HeBY/видео.html
@Fortune Off-Road Had driven and wheeled my Samurai for nearly 20 years and never came close to tipping on cornering, but only from heavy articulation on opposite ends. Drive knowing that your center of gravity is higher is all. Between the two, for mild wheeling,costs efficiency and comfort, the tracker/sidekick would be more reasonable.
How would your mods (esp the carb) translate to a 1.3L 98 jimny
Probably not well, expect the wheels and tires
@@FortuneOffRoad I asked because I'm trying to figure out how to get an ounce more power out of it without an actual engine swap.
Hey Kyle, if I was wanting to come to the Zukicon at the rubicon is there someone who is in charge of the whole thing? I live in Canada so would be a long trek down. Are there requirements that need to be met to run the trail? Any fees? Id like to go with a group since it would be my first time there. Seems like going with a bunch of samurais would be awesome
The event is free an no requirements. You definitely need a lift and at least 31s and lockers. It's going to be a challenge to get through but plenty of people to help. Amber Turner usually runs it. You can find the event on Facebook once she builds it. 👍🏻
@@FortuneOffRoad awesome, yeah I’m running 35’s on locked toy axles, is it in June normally?
Been following this build for a while. I'm curious, not including the initial cost of the Samurai, how much $$$ are you into this?
Bought it originally for around 2k. Probably have about 7k into it. 🤑
I got a pretty ok one for 3 and got a b line on another beater lined up
Good body you’re gonna pay 💰
hey, i got a sj410 and its completely stock. its killing my back and im searching for a solution without changing the ride height but i cant find anything. can anyone help me? xD
I'm not sure there is a way do it. I would recommend running stock YJ springs. If you use them, you will net about 2.5" of lift though.
@@FortuneOffRoad mh... ok
Do you also run the reservoir shocks on the rear?
No, those are monotube right now. They are angled in due to the small space. I always try to think about future plans and I didn't want to waste the money on that upgrade since next I'll be outboarding the shocks when I do an axle swap. 🤘🏻
Does that mustache net you any horsepower gain?
No, just more drag. And more ladies trying to get the door open.
Surprised the propane gets better fuel milage it has 20% less potential energy to gasoline
Usually propane does worse in cars, but slow trail riding at low RPMs get about 10% better. If you were to drive it on the road like a normal car, it would probably be about 10-15% worse. Much cheaper than gasoline in my area, so it would still save money.
Need help, sxs or sidekick?
Planning on driving on the road? It's nice to be able to drive to the trail in back, plus running errands. Extra car of one of yours breaks down, etc. But those SXS' are very capable machines!
Почему самурай? А вранглер полохой,что ли?
I'd rather spend a few grand and engine swap than put a gas conversion in. Zooks are already unsafe in crashes. No need to turn mine into a tactical nuke with gas bottles.
Propane is literally the safest form of fuel for a vehicle. Propane has a narrow flammability range, and its tanks are 20 times more puncture-resistant than gasoline tanks. So if you want something more dangerous, go with gasoline; the tanks puncture easily and have a gnarly flashpoint 🤯