Engine Building Part 7 - Measuring for Pushrods for a Chevy Small Block Chevy 350
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- Опубликовано: 24 май 2018
- How to measure the valvetrain for proper pushrod length.
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Thank you for your time and wisdom sir. Very helpful videos and I enjoy the ones for those of us who just getting ready for our first build.
Very welcome
Great videos, im currently building my first chevy 350 and you are helping me a great deal thank you.
Thanks and good luck Mike
Thanks Pete, another great video in the series.
Thanks my friend
Great job. Thanks for making this not so damn complicated. 👍
I try to make it as easy as possible
That is the simplest way it's been explained so far. Now I'm ready to determine what my push rod lengths will be. Thank you sir for sharing your wisdom.
I'm all about making it simple. Thank you for watching
I did the same thing as you but my car won't start
What could be the problem
I did it like he shows us 16 years ago. I'm now refreshing my motor with new cam. Its a sbc 381 stroker with less than 100 miles on it, in 16 years. (working on car).
Any way, 16 years ago they must have sent me Ford roller rockers. I didn't know much about correct geometry, but I did know about the roller tip riding on the center of the valve stem. Mine was centered but the pattern was quite wide. The pushrod was shorter than it should have been, to get the witness mark on center.
At half of the total valve lift, my rocker wasn't 90 degrees to the valve stem.
Small block Chevy rockers (trunion center to roller tip center) is like 1.380" while Ford is 1.436".
Mine bloody rockers are 1.436"!
So, needless to say, I'm selling Harland sharp stud mount ford's and going with a shaft mount setup.
Gotta do the "1/2 total lift" method of checking for proper pushrod length.
Good job on the video and camera was clear and set up well. Thanks for a great educational video.
You are welcome!
Thanks Pete that was a great video
Thanks my friend
Great video !
Thanks for the info,it all helps!
Glad to help Barry
This is the easiest way I've seen yet on determining pushrod length.
Thanks
Very informative, just got the right size rode in, the other got bent when the timming chain broke on my 88 chevy big block
Thanks Tony
Thanks Pete
dude your vids are so helpful and awesome.
Thank you my friend
Thanks for the advice this seems like the easiest video I've seen so far on the length of the pushrods. All the other videos did all this extra math which was really confusing. This is the first time I ever built an engine so I'm looking for simple. I just don't want to start the engine up on the test stand and hear bang bang and then the engine is shot. The closest I've come to any internal engine work was to replace the timing belt on my son's 2002 ford focus. When I went to start that up the butterflies were welling up in my gut since I didn't want that bang bang bang noise and the engine is shot. On that car it took me a week of endless hours and many Utube videos to figure out the correct way to install a timing belt. Believe me I felt a complete since of relief and jubilation when the car started and ran properly.
That's awesome, thanks Brian!
straub technologies has the best video for stud mount roller rocker geometry!
I've seen that, it is good
Wish I could like this comment a thousand times over. The approach shown in this video here is totally shadetree, and ignores actual in-use valvetrain geometry. Sadly, when combining various aftermarket components, compromises must be made. Yes, it's great to have the contact between the rocker tip and the valvestem be nicely centered. But it's far more important for the angularity between rocker and valve to generally be correct. Because the rocker sweeps through and arc, the angularity can only be "correct" at one point thru the arc. Straub shows how to set it so the angularity is correct at mid lift, which is a good compromise. Depending on your heads, valves and rockers, achieving correct angularity MAY NOT result in a perfectly centered contact between rocker tip and valve - and that is a worthwhile compromise, considering the rest of the geometry has been optimized.
@@GroovesAndLands i like the way you say angularity
@@GroovesAndLands I saw the straub video and was looking at using that to get my pushrod lengths for my build since my cam has different lift for intake/exhaust would that mean need two different size push rods?
Bull, I totally agree!!! It’s the right way of setting it
Thank you
Once again Pete you manage to make me look smart in front of my wife which is no easy task . She's even bought us matching T-shirts hers said I'm smart and mine says I'm with her . Hmmm🙄
Thanks Charles, she'd be smarter if she bought Pete's Garage T-shirts teespring.com/stores/petes-garage
Olympic wrench guessing team........ I had to stop the video & laugh at that one 😂😂😂. Great, informative video Pete. Keep em coming 🤘🤘
It's a tough team to make
By far the easiest way explained on how to figure out pushrod length , every other video is take the lift divided by 2 an have a dial indicator. Blah blah blah, this is simple an makes so much more sense.
Thank you Patrick
@@PetesGarage no problem defiantly the easiest an makes the most sense to measure this way.
Thanks for the honorable mention (lifter conversation)!
I must admit I'm curious as to why you want that video.... I can't find any old lifters to use as samples and the technology is pretty simple
Pete's Garage really more interested in unraveling the mystery of how a hydraulic lifter actually works...solid are solid, no secret there.
But how can valves actually open and close at the right time, and at the desired distance when there is any ‘give’ in the mechanical linkage connecting them together.
That’s the mystery to me that I hope you can help me (and hopefully others) understand.
Thanks Pete!
Ok, I'll make it
oil and oil pressure will create a hydraulic lock vs bleed down with in the lifter , custom hydraulic lifters can be made with different bleed rates.
i would like a bottle opener, plus i subed and liked the vid, and i turned on notifications.
Text me your address
Lol, the funny part about using a ruler. Always try to measure from the 1 inch not the end of a ruler. Made my day, thanks.
Machinist use the 1 inch instead of the end incase the end of the ruler is damaged. More accurate. Do you "have to" nope, just cracked me up.
Thanks Jason
Normal guy showing a normal way to due something! Great vid!
Thanks my friend
Thank you Pete that was very informative. Working on a ford 400 (6.6L) engine with closed chamber heads (351c). I am a machinist and have a 24" Mitutoyo vernier caliper maybe I can make the adjustable valve push rod tool.
That's a nice tool to have
They are like 25 bucks. Most men love new tools.
@@jakefriesenjake amen
You can not get a correct pattern on the valve stem with the hydraulic lifters installed and the regular valve springs. Valve spring pressure will push the pushrod down to the bottom of travel every time you rotate the engine through. You have to install checking springs to get a proper rocker arm to valve tip pattern.
Interesting
Damn Pete, you slapped me in the back of the head.
Is that good?
@@PetesGarage I'm hoping so, I've got something tapping in my engine. My rods are not bent and my rockers are good. My neighbor's an engineer told me that it doesn't sound good so i'm confused. I'm thinking hydraulic lifters might be the cause. The only thing else I can think of without pulling the engine apart completely would be the water pump. I don't have the money to take it to a garage but I have some hopes seeing the rods were not bent. Even used glass to make sure.
I like using the push rod checker tool with jam nuts. The ones without them are just to much of a PITA.
That is true
To bad these sort of video's weren't available decades ago when I was in H.S. It would of helped push me with math more. That said. These videos you are doing are fantastic. I would be hard pressed and surprised if you don't start pushing a million sub's at some point. The educational value and every other aspect are done to earth easy o understand.
People prefer to look at fast cars and buy off the shelf drop in parts, sadly
Agreed. Even more sad, I don't know if H.S. even offers Autoshop anymore. Sadly I wasn't interested back then.....what a dope. Would have learned so much. Didn't realize I would want to know more later.
The interesting thing Al is, I struggled to get help with my car when I was in H.S. so I decided to make these videos for anyone looking for the same help. If this type of information was available I would have had a much different career path.
Pete's Garage explain...
I started working on cars in the early 80's. There was not much information available. Everything was a secret, machining was a secret, nobody would tell you how to do anything, I had to learn by trial and error. There were also no schools geared towards building engines so unless you had a connection or worked as a helper in a machine shop, there was no way to really learn. So I spent my life going to college learning all of the reasons why and how things work the way they do. I spent 7 years as an Engineer for GM in an engine assembly plant and learned even more about how engines are made. I put all of that experience together and started making videos to help people who are starting where I did. My goal is to share what I know, learn what others know, and help as many people as I can. I never claim to know everything, I make lots of mistakes, but when we learn together we are a community that grows together. Perhaps if I knew all of this way back then I would have a shop that is the most popular shop on TV today.
You mentioned the lifter depressing with too many turns of the rocker nut. I'm assuming you're using a pumped up lifter, right? The spring should depress before the lifter, unless you're running a really heavy spring
Yes, but you can bottom out the lifter
Hello need help rebuilt motor chev 4.3 and it burns oil could it be i put rings on wrong white smoke out exhaust
also,, what about adjustable pushrod guide plates,? your roller on valve stem looked a little to far to the right,
They are adjustable. I was most interested in the left to right geometry. I will cover front to back in the installation video
Good video. What is your opinion on doing the length of the pushrod to have the line between center of the trunnion to the center of the roller pin to be at a 90* angle to the valve stem?
I saw a video just now showing that technique and was thinking of doing that but your technique is the same way that I was told by a old engine builder I know through work that said to just set the rocker arm with the roller tip center on the valve and measure the pushrod length.
You are trying to choose the length so the sweep of the roller goes across the center of the valve tip. Too long or too short will make it stay towards one side of center.
Do you ever use offset lifters to help with the valve train alignment issues? I'm installing Holley heads on my SBF 302 and they're known for valve guide wear, from what I'm reading. When I was mocking them up, I ordered the solid guide plates and they did not line up, so I switched to the adjustable ones. Just wondering if offset lifters would remedy that type of misalignment.
I have never used them. If they are offset the right amount it looks like they would help.
Pete, I’m halfway through the video and the rocker roller looks. Off center of the valve after you adjusted the pushrod length. Maybe it’s the camera angle. Now back to the video. Artie 😊🇺🇸
It's the camera angle
Hey Pete, I have a 68 Camaro SS CLone, its real nice and it has a 400 SBC, with stock heads, a nice cam and Edelbrock Manifold. I'm thinking of putting on AFR heads and was going to put Roller rockers on and leave the current cam and lifters. Do you see any problem with doing that, and do you have a suggestion for the rockers? Thanks Tom
I don't see any problem with that.
Did you replace the valve springs with test (low tension) springs? I have a Comp cams length tester and wondering if I can check the length using the installed springs. The closed is 130 and open is 310. Thanks.
I did not since they were roller lifters. You can use those springs to check
I am installing roller rockers and trying to establish the mid lift angle. I drew a straight line from center of bearing to center of roller tip. I am unable to get the 90 degree to the valve using that method. I tries your method and I see the mark in the center of the top of the valve. Two different sizes gave me the same result. 7.645 and 7.880. The 7.880 was established by twisting the pushrod until I felt restriction to the rocker. Then I turned the nut 1/2 turn. The lifter was compressed just enough to be below the ring inside the lifter. Is this correct?
It sounds like it
When checking for push rod length with a hydraulic flat tappet lifter, should you take into account the amount the plunger in the lifter moves because of the spring tension? Or just set preload and go with the measurement given?
Just set preload and go with the measurement given
Add half the amount of plunger travel (like what the lifter & pushrod see @ mid lobe lift) to your final number. Mine was perfect at a 7" pushrod. Both int & Exh valve stem tips were dead center. Adding the preload factor in means I need a 7.050" pushrod. Plunger travel for my hyd rollers was .090" , half that is .045" so since most all readily available pushrods come in .050" increments a 7.050" is what I need.
with what you just did,, and it just so happen a stock push rod was correct. do you have to use hardened push rods.,? or stock push rods not suggested.?
Since the valve springs are pretty low pressure a regular push rod is fine
Well this is a far simplified version of something that is easily overcomplicated. So all I have to do is adjust to a length that is close to center on the valve, turn it over a few times, check the mark and repeat if necessary and measure?
Yes sir, that's it
Question. Just got engine back from shop. The rockers seem to be very close to the intake side of the stem. Looks like machine shop got wrong pushrods. What’s the best way to check pushrod length on heads and motor already assembled? Roller cam. 330lb springs.
Last motor I used light spring, added .030 for lifter preload, and .015 for head gasket. Had a good center mark on stem. But once assembled heads with valve springs and head gasket the rockers were way off center. Not sure what happened there? Looking for some direction. Thanks!
Turn the engine over by hand and watch the valve tip and pushrod end. Look for any potential binding spots.
@@PetesGarage ok. So eyeballing plus the .030-.050 for lifter preload will be fine on a mild sbc?
If I'm going with stock heads but getting them ported would that change the lifter length?
It will not
I measured a 7.918 on my 12" micrometer. What size would you go with them. The mark left by the roller was in the middle so I'm assuming it was in the correct position. I noticed there was a 7.950 and a 8.000. maybe I'll take the micrometer and measure 7.950 and make that test pushrod that length and see how it looks. Or I might go down from the 7.918 and see how that looks.
You can buy pushrods in 0.010" increments
Trying to understand how you checked that the roller was hitting the center of the valve. Did the roller make that black mark? (Fantastic videos!)
I put the mark on the tip of the valve with a dry erase marker
Pete. I am jumping into the details here, but I have a concern doing it the way you described. Since your hydraulic lifter is not pumped up full of oil, doesn't the pushrod collapse the lifter during valve opening and throw everything off doing it this way? It seems with the hydraulic lifter compressed the rocker arm would be off center on the stem shifted towards the carb side. Is there a way to modify the hydraulic lifter so it won't compress during this measurement to better facilitate getting the correct push rods length? Also, do you check multiple push rod locations and take an average so the rod length is the same for all 16 push rods?
Great point Dennis, you can feel the lifter collapse so you can stop before it does. Unless the cam is ground wrong they should all be the same.
I know this is an old video, but there is a great video on how to stop the lifter from collapsing at "Nofoxgivin" on youtube. Found the video earlier. It involves a simple lifter modification. Really the best way to do it.
What kind of rockers are those they look stainless i wanted a set would you recommend?
Those are Elgin SSR-840RS stainless rockers. They work great
Pete have you ever used Launiti cams or lifters and have you ever had lifters rattke when letting of the gas from crusing speed??? 440 Mopar with Harland sharp roller rockers have 9.030 pushrods
You'll be fine after setting lash correctly
@@PetesGarage Thanks Pete it purrs like a Kitten now.....Really appreciate your expert Help looking forward to more 440 Mopar Builds Mike
That's awesome! Glad to help Mike
Shouldnt this be done at 1/2 the valves total lift? Then you get a 100% accurate reading since youre splitting the difference of the travel of the roller during the cams rotation
That is true Brent
Am i good to go with 35 thous extra on the gasket with same pushrods?
Sure
If your customer paid for you to disassemble those brand new E-Street heads and have them checked for proper fitment between valve guides and valve stems,spring heights and spring pressures;- Would you actually do it or would you say its overkill ? Also if its part of a rebuild service and to your service only pertains to used heads would you take money off the rebuild fee if your service was a flat rate of say $2850?
That is a tough question. If they wanted it, I would do it, sure. Overkill is a matter of preference. It really depends on the condition of a used head. Sometimes It's cheaper to buy new heads unless you're trying to maintain matching part numbers.
Can your rocker arms sit all the way down on the rocket stud and not damage anything or does it have to be off The rocker stud
It can
@@PetesGarage thanks bud
Hay Pete I didn't see how you got the that black mark on the rod??? Thanks
Those heads actually came that way. When I install the rocker arms I will change it to something that makes it easy to see, it will be in that video
What brand are the rockers
Dose the rocker arm stay floating like that .it dont need to be at the bottom of the bolt.
Correct
@@PetesGarage thank you pete
I am learning as much as I can about this subject and I am hearing some very respected builders say that proper VTG is not necessarily based on a centered sweep. It is more of an average adjustment of the whole unit from the lifter through the pushrod then through the rocker to the tip of the valve. Just because the rocker tip is centered on the valve doesn’t mean the apparatus is adjusted correctly. What is your opinion?
That is true, but you have to start somewhere, and the middle is the best place. That is why I say to turn the engine over several times to see how it sits and moves throughout the rotation.
I respect your process very much, I have watched most of your engine building videos, but I’m not so sure about your technique here. There is an awesome HOTROD mag article on VTG That made a lot of sense to me.. thanks for your time and your videos
So I read the article. The sweep path of the roller must start at the center in neutral position as I did. I do say to rotate the engine a couple of time to see how the roller moves on the valve tip. The article states that the roller should not come within .020" of the valve tip which of course makes sense. They were using a cam with lift up to .580" which is quite a bit. I can understand your concern if you had a rocker with an odd angle, but most rockers are fairly straight. For the average engine builder, maintaining close to a 90 degree with the pushrod and keeping the roller close to the center throughout the entire valve open event is more than sufficient.
Pete's Garage thank you for the conversation. The best possible VTG is the centerline of the trunion and the center of the roller tip parallel with the valve tip at mid lift, centered in the valve tip. If we can accomplish this the sweep will be minimal and cause less wear...
Scott foxwell has a video through Straub Tech that illustrated this well. I used this video and the HOTROD article to form my opinoin... we can lose lift with a wider sweep path. Thanks Pete
I do see your point, it does makes sense. I learn something new every day. Thank you for sharing that.
how do you measure 7.2 when those heads are recommended a +100 longer than stock push rod (7.9) is every head different or? thanks
The deck was machined
So the rocker does not need to sit all the way down on the rocker stud?
Not on this one
Hey Pete if I’m running stock push rods and a 1.5 roller rocker should by Roche stud be 3/8 -20 or 3/8 -24
Depends on the head
It is a stock l98 head
7/16-14 on some 3/8-24
Works better to use light valve spring for this.
It can be, thanks Rod
where did you get the rockers?
thanks inadvance!
larry
Those are available from Summit
Can that tool gauge handle the spring tension ?
The dial indicator just measures
There is a more accurate way to check the pushrod length. Put machinist dye, or a black marker on the valve tip, so that when the roller moves across the stem of the valve, it shows a tattle-tale line of roller movement. The marking should be about an 1/8" of movement from the center of valve stem. Use a SOLID lifter, identical in length to your lifter you're gonna run in your engine, to eliminate any slack when measuring the pushrod length! Using a hydraulic lifter will cause the plunger in the hyd. lifter to colapse when the lifter starts it's upward travel. Adjust the pushrod checker in/out until you see the correct pattern on the stem of the valve. If you need to recheck, then wipe off and remark. MEASURE THE PUSHROD CHECKER W/A DIAL CALIPER TO BE PRECISE, AND NOT A RULER! WHY ARE YOU CHECKING THE PUSHROD LENGTH, IF YOU'RE NOT GOING TO BE PRECISE! Defeats the whole purpose.
Thanks for the comment
Absolutely!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Especially regarding the use of a sold lifter. And, if you don't want to pull an intake manifold off an assembled engine, use of light valve springs to prevent hydraulic lifter plunger collapse. I also use an adjustable push rod checker that has been treated with blue loc-tite. This prevents inadvertent rotation of one end of the checker versus the other end As a result, this requires the use of pliers to lengthen or shorten the checker.
because its a street engine, not a high RPM race engine and this has worked fine for a bunch of people. FOR DEACDES
not saying youre wrong, but this will get you a good pushrod length without being overly technical about it
Should I check for all valves it just 1?
They should all be the same
Grate video pete . From maniacal s10 please google.
Thanks my friend
do you need to measure one on each head?
It's a good idea to
Where can I buy that same exact pushrod length checker at
You will need to know the range you need www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-7702-1
I did the same thing but my car won't start
What could be the problem
No idea
How did you keep your hydraulic lifter from collapsing too much doing this?
They will collapse slightly
Pete's Garage should you presoak them before? Or just use the fresh new lifters
I have a question.
Why would my engine builder use 1.6 rockers on the intake and 1.5 on the exhaust?
I can run 1.6 on all of them if I want to.
I’m just not sure why he did what he did.
He’s a hard guy to get ahold of or I would ask him.
He built me a 383 stroker running “according to his Dyno” 500hp 520tq
Cam 234/242
Intake cam lobe 374 with 1.6 rocker = 598 lift
Exhaust cam lobe 382 with 1.5 rocker = 573 lift
The heads have 205 intake 160 exhaust valve.
Using a comp roller cam and comp short travel hydraulic lifters.
According to Comp the springs he used are to weak and that why my valves a floating at above 5800rmps
So I’m planning on installing the right springs and a stud girdle and installing those ultra pro magnum roller rockers.
Just not sure if I should change that set up from 1.6/1.5 to 1.6/1.6
Oh and the heads “according to Brodix” are good for a 640 lift.
Any explanation for that set up?
The reason for that is to open the intake valves a little more. The exhaust is under pressure so it is forced out.
So is it commom to have 5 or 6 different sizes of pushrods? That could get pricy
No, they are usually all the same length
@@PetesGarage lmao.
I ordered a set made by BTR through Summit. 7.375". Not 7 3/8". The tolerance was that of the later! They ranged from 7.384" to 7.389". 5 were the same length. Are the hard to manufacture or what? They supposed to be +/- .001". Right? No quality control at all. Do they think people are not going to check? Another 10 day delay in this build. Thanks man
How are those Elgin rockers holding up? I heard many builders say they are junk Chinese rockers. Of course you never hear the good of a product, just the bad.
I've never had a problem
Valve train geometry is a vigorously debated subject and there is a lot of conjecture on correct methods.
I personally prefer to :
1) Use a light weight test spring when an adjustable pushrod is fitted.
2) Use the cam mid lift procedure to set geometry.
3) Mark the top of the valve stem to get a true indication of not only contact point but sweep size of the roller through its cycle.
That is a very good procedure
I do the same as you Jasper, I look for minimum sweep across the top of the valve stem for less side load on the on the valve.
But with test springs, its better to use dry erase marker because of not enough pressure wipe the permanent marker off
Do you measure for lift?
Yes I do
Is this procedure standard ?
For all chevy ?
I've used it on many engines
so much for that measuring tool
?
@@PetesGarage your abusing your tool
@@chassisaligner you ARE a tool
@@lit549 ditto!!
He's referring to the way Pete rolled the engine over and cycled the valve with full spring force on an adjustable pushrod, which I guess Pete got a way with because these are mild springs. Don't try this with a real set of valvesprings - remove them and install "checker springs". Also, before following this "centered according to my eyeball" approach, PLEASE PLEASE look into the 90º angle between rocker and valve @ 50% valvelift approach!!
My pushrod measurement came to 7.850 can I use a 7.900 pushrods?
You could, but why not get the right size...
@@PetesGarage ok Thanks and is it normal to get a extra long pushrods length when changing roller rockers and studs I usually get 7.300 with retro hyd roller camshaft and lifters now I got 7.850
That's over 1/2", any idea why so much?
@@PetesGarage I have no idea maybe wrong roller lifters I ordered a comp cams 853-2 and will try with that roller lifter
Just curious how you measured this way without considering preload on the lifters?
Wouldn't the lifter collapse tho with that strong valve spring
No, oil is not compressible when it hydraulically locks
Sweet thanks man
What cam do you have ? 3:47
Comp 12-408-8
How come other people take the spring off the valves and put a spring you can move with your hand? It looks like their way is just a bunch of added work. The one guy claimed it might bend the test pushed.
There is not reason to remove the springs, you're right, lots of added work
A little confused in the end you didn't use the ruler you used a caliper for a more precise measurement off camera?
I did use a ruler, measured 7 1/8"
Hey its jose ortega I have the same lifters but with aluminum roller rocker arms
Awesome
@@PetesGarage I was hopping you would help me
With what?
@@PetesGarage push rod length
@@PetesGarage I've seen 7.400 to 7.900 and 7.100 I'm try to decide
Hi I was told roller cams are not compatible with E-street heads which cam are you using?
That is not accurate. The cam type has nothing to do with the heads.
Im guessing the lifter should be primed to do this.
No, if the lifter is primer it will be stiff. It's easier to do when they are dry.
U weren't worried about bending the adjustable. Interesting. The other video's I've viewed say don't do that. But damn. U did it. I odrered a set of 7.375" rods not 7 3/8". They were within tolerance if I ordered them @ 7 3/8". But I ordered them @ 7.375". That tolerance is supposed to be +/- .001". These ranged from 7.384" thru 7.389". How accurate should push rods be? I hear competition cams is dead on. But then they are more than double what I paid. Also should u check all the rockers? Or should u trust the manufacturer's of the rockers & lifters? Dumb question I guess. Since those 2 could be in different countries. And do they have competent quality control??? Trust no one. Right? Lol
I've never had a problem. I can tell you stories about quality control. I would check them all
why did u not lock the bolts on cam!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I did, but the video shot got screwed up and I couldn't use it.
Suppa
Duppa
Wuppa
This info is totall off from what I was told. I was lucky enough to spend a full day with a nhra pro stock engine builder who told me that proper rocker geometry is when the cam is at 50% of total lift the rocker should at that point be level with the head and the rocker is dead center of the valve stem. NOT when the cam is on the base circle
That is probably true for pro stock engines
pushrods come in 50 thou increments
Depending on the engine and the push rod diameter, length can be in .100" down to .005" increments. You can even have them custom made to length
Everything in this video is completely wrong. You set your rocker geometry first to find out what length pushrod you need.
Thanks Paul
No disrespect sir, your information is incorrect. Center of the valve means nothing. Search Straub valve geometry, he explains it. Jim Miller explains it even better!
Thanks Jeff
Stock pushrod is 7.793 have another beer 🍺
Without the deck cut and a factory cast head