When the exhaust valve starts up set your intake vale lash at 0. When your intake is almost all the way down set your exhaust valve lash at 0. Do this to every cylinder. Tighten all nuts 1/2 turn more and every lifter top will be set and it will off the retaining ring .020. all the same preload on a cam so it is in balance and will wear perfectly. I like to spin my pushrods and wiggle them into seat. This is the Crane Cams recommended way to set the preload on a new cam and lifters. Competiton Cams has the same directions. It's on their website.
Did this to my 72 Chevy a couple of years ago after installing new lifters and had the heads done and it worked like a charm ! This is the easiest and best way to do it without making a big mess ! Thanks for the video .
This is an awesome way to do this. Thank you to guys like you who show a simple way to do things like this. There's an engine builder named Ken Ellison who goes way in depth about how to do this. Either way this technique takes the guess work out of it.
When it comes to how much you preload, the best answer I have heard was, "if it's your buddies engine or a customer's, go 3/4, if it's your engine, go 1/2".
Some say to start at 1/4 then do a hot lash adjustment when engine is running but I’ve always heard best to start at 1/2 turn and in most cases no additional adjustments are necessary.
There are lots of ways to do it by tracking TDC, this method is nice because you don't care where TDC is and you can just go 90 degrees at a time until you're all set and fully cover the cam.
I marked my harmonic balancer on painters tape when the cylinder heads were off just so I could do it this way. The feel method is a jic and to double check them.
Yes. IMO it doesn't matter at all since you are adding a partial turn of preload to the lifter from where the pushrod play is gone. A dry and pumped up lifter are the same length so the point the play is gone is the same. When we start to preload with a partial turn, if it is dry it will compress the spring, if it is pumped up with oil, you will still be adding the same amount of preload but it may barely crack the valve open which is no problem, the oil will bleed down after preloading. When the engine is started again both methods will result in the same amount of preload from the fully extended lifter. Happy wrenching!
Good question. You really want the pushrod preloaded to the center point of the lifter (between the retaining clip and the point where the lifter plunger bottoms out in the lifter). I think most use what they have always used and are comfortable with. You could always find the center by slowly turning the nut in until you feel the lifter bottom and see how many turns it takes. Just be careful not to go too far and damage the pushrod or lifter.
I heard that some people even use 1/4 turn but thats for racing. I did try my lash at 1/2 turn but just seemed spongy. 3/4 of a turn is what I go by. 👍🌟
Old method that I have used many times since the 1970's. Works fine if you're mindful. BUT DO NOT OIL SOAK OR PUMP YOUR LIFTERS UP BEFORE USING THIS METHOD. If lifter(s) are pumped up, bleed them down first. Finally, pre-load lifters per lifter manufacturers instructions--usually 1/2 to 3/4 turn. I do 4 full turns of the crank during this process (that's 16 90-degree steps), Do it once, take your time, enjoy.
@@davidcooper729 Correct. We are taking the play out first then applying a partial turn to preload the lifter. This slightly compresses the spring but there is still more travel in the lifter if you push down on it.
Ola tudo bem ,falo do brasil se meu motor ja estava funcionando preciso descarrgar os tuchos para fazer essa regulagem e dar os 3/4Hello, all right, I speak from Brazil if my engine was already running, do I need to unload the tappets to make this adjustment and give the 3/4?
Sure. If your just doing a single rocker remember to go through all 8 quarter turns on the crank pulley to make sure you test the entire camshaft rotation.
@@martinarcher25 tried to do it with the engine running but once I got half way to the lifters un doing it till it ticked then 0 lash and 1/2 a turn the engine wanted to stall out and it happened with 2 lifters and some are super tight some are perfect rebuilder told me it was all adjusted fine guess not so I’m going to try this out and hope my engine can run smooth as of now it runs kind of rough and I see why but has improved with a little bit of tweaking with the lifters
@@sega2229 I've never attempted it with the engine running. I think it would be much more difficult to single out play in a specific pushrod with so much other mechanical noise of the engine running. I'm sure some can do it but I don't multi task that well! :)
@@davidcooper729 it works with the engine running and with it off rotating like 6 times at a certain degrees. Nothing was wrong with the adjustments my rebuilt engine was just eating the cam then ticking and I got it rebuilt 3 times I recommend you do roller cam regardless of anything even if your sure You can do the break in process. The flat tappet suck and are not worth the time. Haven’t had porblem with the roller cam upgrade on mine. If it’s ticking then your cams shot
What if you do all t his and it gets loose again after a 10 minute drive? I did this to my 76 camero, ran perfect for a test drive then started making noise and got loose again
As long as the play isn't being caused by a rocker stud pulling out or cam wear I would recommend using thin jam nuts or swapping to the pinch style rocker nuts. Summit has them.
Just adjust 2 of them and count the treads on top of the nut put all the same its really close if not dead on u have a lot of lead way of adjustment if its a Hydraulic lifter If it's a solid lifter you need filler gages or a dial indicator !! Its not rocket science im saying it can be a huge adjustment area and it will be right in all that area so really hard to even get wrong !!
Nope Lifters must be in the down position Period and it don't matter about where the balancer is period because you want all the lifters in the down position myself I prefer a ratchet in a 3/8 deep well. Some people will lie to you. Just for you to take it to a machine shop
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When the exhaust valve starts up set your intake vale lash at 0. When your intake is almost all the way down set your exhaust valve lash at 0. Do this to every cylinder. Tighten all nuts 1/2 turn more and every lifter top will be set and it will off the retaining ring .020. all the same preload on a cam so it is in balance and will wear perfectly. I like to spin my pushrods and wiggle them into seat. This is the Crane Cams recommended way to set the preload on a new cam and lifters. Competiton Cams has the same directions. It's on their website.
Did this to my 72 Chevy a couple of years ago after installing new lifters and had the heads done and it worked like a charm ! This is the easiest and best way to do it without making a big mess ! Thanks for the video .
I'd read about how this method works. Thanks for such a concise video demonstration.
This is an awesome way to do this. Thank you to guys like you who show a simple way to do things like this. There's an engine builder named Ken Ellison who goes way in depth about how to do this. Either way this technique takes the guess work out of it.
I saw the Vice Grip Garage guy do this as well. Thanks for posting!
Thanks! I'll have to check out his channel!
Can"t wait to do this on my 350 this spring . Thank You .
Nice video. Good job explaining . Easy and to the point..
When it comes to how much you preload, the best answer I have heard was, "if it's your buddies engine or a customer's, go 3/4, if it's your engine, go 1/2".
Some say to start at 1/4 then do a hot lash adjustment when engine is running but I’ve always heard best to start at 1/2 turn and in most cases no additional adjustments are necessary.
wouldnt it work the same to do #1,6 on tdc. then #8,5 on 90 degree mark, then #4,7 at bdc, then #3,2 halfway back to tdc?
There are lots of ways to do it by tracking TDC, this method is nice because you don't care where TDC is and you can just go 90 degrees at a time until you're all set and fully cover the cam.
I marked my harmonic balancer on painters tape when the cylinder heads were off just so I could do it this way. The feel method is a jic and to double check them.
Will this be the same if the lifters have oil in them?
Yep, that won't make any difference.
Sooo......you dont need to start on TDC. Just as long as you rotate crank 90deg at a time ?..........great video thanks
Exactly. It makes it really easy! Thanks!
@@martinarcher25 copy that. Thanks. 👍👍👍
Just easier lol it has tdc Mark. It's hard to find that😅
Does this method work when the lifters have oil in them? The engine was running, but had to change the head.
Yes. IMO it doesn't matter at all since you are adding a partial turn of preload to the lifter from where the pushrod play is gone. A dry and pumped up lifter are the same length so the point the play is gone is the same. When we start to preload with a partial turn, if it is dry it will compress the spring, if it is pumped up with oil, you will still be adding the same amount of preload but it may barely crack the valve open which is no problem, the oil will bleed down after preloading. When the engine is started again both methods will result in the same amount of preload from the fully extended lifter. Happy wrenching!
@@martinarcher25 Understood great explanation 👍🏽
Any reason why some do 1/2 turn some do 3/4 turn for preload. Thx
Good question. You really want the pushrod preloaded to the center point of the lifter (between the retaining clip and the point where the lifter plunger bottoms out in the lifter). I think most use what they have always used and are comfortable with. You could always find the center by slowly turning the nut in until you feel the lifter bottom and see how many turns it takes. Just be careful not to go too far and damage the pushrod or lifter.
I heard that some people even use 1/4 turn but thats for racing. I did try my lash at 1/2 turn but just seemed spongy. 3/4 of a turn is what I go by. 👍🌟
Does this adjustment apply on hydraulic roller lifters with roller rockers?
Hydraulic lifters - the rockers don't matter.
Does this procedure apply only to new lifters? Not lifters that have been used before?
@@squarebodymob It applies only to hydraulic valvetrain.
Old method that I have used many times since the 1970's. Works fine if you're mindful. BUT DO NOT OIL SOAK OR PUMP YOUR LIFTERS UP BEFORE USING THIS METHOD. If lifter(s) are pumped up, bleed them down first. Finally, pre-load lifters per lifter manufacturers instructions--usually 1/2 to 3/4 turn. I do 4 full turns of the crank during this process (that's 16 90-degree steps), Do it once, take your time, enjoy.
How do you bleed them? Just draining the engine oil?
@@davidcooper729 You have to bleed each lifter if they are pumped up.
Hi will this method work on a 454? I have done this method on my 350 with good results every time.😎
Sure as long as it's a hydraulic valvetrain you should be good to go.
Can you do this with the engine already installed and oil in it?
@@davidcooper729 yes sir!
@@martinarcher25 thanks for the reply! I’ll give it a go! I appreciate the video
I checked for no up and down play, but should you still be able to squish the rockers up and down?
@@davidcooper729 Correct. We are taking the play out first then applying a partial turn to preload the lifter. This slightly compresses the spring but there is still more travel in the lifter if you push down on it.
Ola tudo bem ,falo do brasil se meu motor ja estava funcionando preciso descarrgar os tuchos para fazer essa regulagem e dar os 3/4Hello, all right, I speak from Brazil if my engine was already running, do I need to unload the tappets to make this adjustment and give the 3/4?
That's right, you want to back them off until you just have the play taken out, then preload then with the 3/4 turn. Cheers!
On a used engine if I remove or slacken right off a rocker and test pushrod to see if springy, if it is springy then it's hydraulic? With intake on.
Sure. If your just doing a single rocker remember to go through all 8 quarter turns on the crank pulley to make sure you test the entire camshaft rotation.
Can you do it with the intake manifold on and a motor that is already running but recently rebuilt like 1500 miles
I don't see why not. As long as you can jiggle the little bit of pushrod poking though the head, you should be fine to do it this way.
@@martinarcher25 tried to do it with the engine running but once I got half way to the lifters un doing it till it ticked then 0 lash and 1/2 a turn the engine wanted to stall out and it happened with 2 lifters and some are super tight some are perfect rebuilder told me it was all adjusted fine guess not so I’m going to try this out and hope my engine can run smooth as of now it runs kind of rough and I see why but has improved with a little bit of tweaking with the lifters
@@sega2229 I've never attempted it with the engine running. I think it would be much more difficult to single out play in a specific pushrod with so much other mechanical noise of the engine running. I'm sure some can do it but I don't multi task that well! :)
@@sega2229any update, if it worked?
@@davidcooper729 it works with the engine running and with it off rotating like 6 times at a certain degrees. Nothing was wrong with the adjustments my rebuilt engine was just eating the cam then ticking and I got it rebuilt 3 times I recommend you do roller cam regardless of anything even if your sure
You can do the break in process. The flat tappet suck and are not worth the time. Haven’t had porblem with the roller cam upgrade on mine. If it’s ticking then your cams shot
So am I able to do this with the engine in the truck… do I move the balancer periodically
Yep, it can be done in the truck. Just turn the crank 90 degrees at a time like I was.
So you dont have to start at tdc anywhere. You can just start at any point of the cycle??
Nope, you can start anywhere with this method.
This only works on adjustable rockers? Cant do this on shaft rockers like a small block chrysler?
I'm not familiar with that engine but if it doesn't have a hydraulic valvetrain this would not work.
This same process work with roller rocker arms as well?
For sure.
What if you do all t his and it gets loose again after a 10 minute drive? I did this to my 76 camero, ran perfect for a test drive then started making noise and got loose again
As long as the play isn't being caused by a rocker stud pulling out or cam wear I would recommend using thin jam nuts or swapping to the pinch style rocker nuts. Summit has them.
@@martinarcher25 thank you so much. You are right, i think the nuts are worn oit because when I rev hard it gets loose and acts weird again.
@@michaelpassionsgarage356 Nice. At least it's a quick easy fix! Good luck with it!
This only works on adjustable rockers? Wont work on rockers that are all on one shaft like a small block Chrysler?
@@michaelpassionsgarage356in
How many turns for a 4.3 virtec v6
From what I can see about the 4.3 is the hydraulic lifter preload is 1.5 turns instead of the 3/4 turn I did in this video.
Just adjust 2 of them and count the treads on top of the nut put all the same its really close if not dead on u have a lot of lead way of adjustment if its a Hydraulic lifter If it's a solid lifter you need filler gages or a dial indicator !! Its not rocket science im saying it can be a huge adjustment area and it will be right in all that area so really hard to even get wrong !!
That's work for 5.0 motor too?
As long as it's a hydraulic valve train it should work fine.
thank you
Sure thing! Hope it helped!
Nope Lifters must be in the down position Period and it don't matter about where the balancer is period because you want all the lifters in the down position myself I prefer a ratchet in a 3/8 deep well. Some people will lie to you. Just for you to take it to a machine shop
Ya no bueno...