this is the simplest most straightforward video if you're looking for help and guidance. most other guys tend to throw in a lot of extra info and procedures that are just confusing. follow the firing order like he says and you're golden.
I like his video..... well done! At around 1:28 into the video, he shows spinning the push rod to determine when zero lash has been achieved. I believe that there is a more accurate way to do this! With the intake manifold not yet installed (as in the video), and prior to the cam followers being oiled up, we have the perfect opportunity to watch the plunger as it just begins to move downward. Once it begins to move, we have established zero lash. This eliminates a potential error that may be made while spinning the push rod. At 1:34, he makes a good point. If we use a shallow socket, we can prevent this. At 2:28, he begins to talk about what is known as the 8 stop static procedure. He begins with # 1 cylinder at TDC C/S. Once done with # 1, you will rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees, and you are ready to adjust the next cylinder in the firing order. Keep going right down the firing order until you reach # 1 again. The crankshaft will have made 2 rotations, while the camshaft will have made only one full rotation. I strongly suggest that we use the 8 stop procedure, rather than the 2 or 3 stop.
Thanks for having this video here! I with my brother's help am rebuilding a 1980's slant6 in a Dodge D150 shortbed (it's on Wikipedia) and this was a holdup besides the weather here in Alaska in getting the truck back on the road. I learned a lot with this video. THANKS!
@saw426 Yes, any of the valves that are in the closed position will allow you to spin the pushrods in your fingers, but you'll have no up and don't slack if the lash is set properly on a hydraulic lifter. Any of the valves that are open or being held open at all by a camshaft lobe will be too tight in the rocker arm to spin with your fingers.
@nicksare If you watch again and pay attention to what is said, you'll realize that we are giving generalized instructions for all types of engine owners to use. The firing order and procedure shown is for small block Chevy, but the instructions say to follow your specific firing order associated with your engine type. With this video, and the engine specs for your block (American V8 engine specs are available at our website) you can perform the same procedure on Ford, Chevy or any other...
@lakeboy36111 This is only a short sample clip from a 3 hour DVD. The full length version shows you how to adjust the lash when the intake is installed. It's pretty simple. The pushrods are still going to be reachable just above the cylinder heads and below the rockers. You can roll them in your fingers there, instead of in the lifter valley.
@StealthNinjaX2 If you have hydraulic lifters, in the short term it will just be the annoyance of the chattering rockers and you're valves will be a couple thousandths of an inch shy of fully opening (but not always). In the long term, you'll begin to wear out the matting surfaces of where the rockers meet the valves or where the cam lobes meet the valves... depending on what type of valve train design you have.
@ktmboy1989 amount of rotation to get to the next cylinder is directly related to the type of engine and crankshaft. The degrees of rotation of a 4 cylinder crankshaft tied to one of two overhead cams compared to an 8 cylinder crankshaft connected to a single cam will be completely unrelated. That's why you look at the valves and their opening events to determine TDC for each cylinder. Only the #1 cylinder is timed to the mark on the balancer/timing cover
The lash adjustment method shown here is the only way to cover all bases with multiple make of engines. A GM manual may only apply to a select number of years and cam specs using the #1 TDC and #6 TDC lash adjust method. Our DVDs consider all engine makes and types (including 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder models) and shows a valve lash method that can be used for all engine types. For many GM blocks though, the #1-#6 method works well.
@aBlascakProduction the rocker will possibly move just a bit but it will feel tight. The pushrod will not move after the initial extra turn, but when any pressure bleeds off inside the lifter and after a few rotations of the engine, the pushrod with spin slightly when the cam lobe is at bottom and the valve is closed. But as soon as the valve starts to open, the pushrod will firm up and will not be able to spin in your fingertips.
@jasonz28camaro Being able to adjust both valves at the point when the intake closes depends on the type of camshaft you have. In most stock engines with a factory installed 'low-profile' cam, it is safe to adjust both the intake and exhaust at TDC for the particular cylinder. When you have a high performance camshaft, the opening and closing events of the cam lobes are more radical and you need to adjust according to the cam manufacturers specs.
This video will get you to the point where you can fire up the engine. But once the engine is up to temperature, you have to adjust the lifters again a second time while the engine is running in order to make max power. On solids, use a feeler gauge while the engine is running. On hydraulic, you tighten down till you just get lifter noise. Then back up a quarter turn. For racing you can adjust to where it just starts to tick. Use oil deflectors or cut away on old valve cover.
@StanMangler We're glad you found the 'Valve Lash' video portion sample here on RUclips helpful. The clip on YT is just a sample from our full length 'Basic Engine Building' DVD. Let us know if you still had questions after watching the sample clip. There is a lot more information in the complete DVD but we're interested in whether the sample clip alone is helpful enough to get the job done for other applications other than the ones shown.
How do I determine if my lifters are bad or the rocker arms need ajusting? The enginer is a 2.9L V six 200k mile and nothing has been done to the engine. I hear some ticking sometimes when the engine is cold then it goes away. It is expecially bad if the truck has not been run for a few days. The oil pressure is OK and the lifters are hydolic. I put some heavier oil in the engine and seems to help. Will I need to adjust the rockers after lifter replace? Shane
@ts46176 yup, this is just a 'sample clip'. this is a 3 minute excerpt from a full length DVD that is over 3 hours long. 'Basic Engine Building' shows complete teardown, machine shop procedures, pre-assembly, final sealing and assembly as well as start-up guidelines... If you're actually going to tinker with any kind of piston engine, it's worth checking out. Thanks for watching the sample though... Glad it was helpful
sample clip? i pulled my valve covers off my chevy 4.3 and did exactly what the video showed, went from sounding like its going to blow up to being so quiet you can barely hear it running, if this is just a sample what else could be involved? seems pretty complete to me, hope it is anyway lol
Thanks for the help! But... the roller tips aren't rolling off the intake manifold or exhaust side of the valve tips, its side to side, or from firewall to engine fan. Any ideas? Thanks again
@jujutube123 With solid lifters, you stop turning at 'zero lash' with the correct feeler gauge installed. With hydraulic lifers (roller or flat tappet) you set to 'zero lash' and then add at least a half turn more. Some engines even require a bit more. You may notice the valve open slightly, but as the pressure inside the lifter bleeds off, the valve will return to it's seat. This is all covered in detail in the 3 hours long 'Basic Engine Building' DVD
hey great video, im just wondering how to get the zero lash with both valves closed with the intake manifold on without being able to see the lifters. Im guessing its aot harder to eyeball where the rockers are sitting? I just had one head done on a older chev 350. Not too sure.
@jujutube123 This is the correct procedure for taking a hydraulic lifer to zero lash and then adding the required pre-load to the lifter. The pre-load is set by turning the rocker nut down the extra half turn after reaching zero lash. With solid lifters, you go to zero lash with a specific feeler gauge between the valve tip and the rocker. For hydraulic lifters, you need to do the procedure described here, including the extra half turn.
Pretty much yes, as you described. You're looking for the closing event of the #1 intake valve though, not the cylinder itself. The cylinder comes up twice through the four strokes, once for compression and the next time for the exhaust stoke, then repeats. With no timing cover in place you'd be able to line up the timing marks and adjust the #1 cylinder only. Then you'd have to determine the closing events of each of the other cylinders to properly adjust them, just follow the firing order.
@ktmboy1989 A quarter turn is correct, since the crank rotates twice to complete a full firing order. The camshaft rotates at half-crank speed, so 1/4 crank turn = 1/8 cam turn = next piston tdc firing.
You guys have some great vids! I have a 67 Mustang with a 302 out of a later model. It has aluminum heads and roller rockers, and Im having a problem with the roller tips being too far to the side of the valve stems, and some of them are close to rolling off the sides. How can I correct this? Thanks for the help
Hydraulic lifters in combination with rockers are adjusted with too much slack will "chatter" when running. This clacking-chatting noise will be more severe when there is more slack and will be heard coming from under the valve covers as the sounds are created by the slack between the rockers tips and the valve tips as the lifters push and then relax tension on the pushrods. Engines with solid lifters need to keep a bit of clearance between the rockers and valve tips because of heat expansion.
soaking the lifters in oil will allow them to pump up a bit quicker but is not a requirement. As soon as oil pressure builds, a set of new lifters will fill quickly under oil pressure and begin to send oil up the pushrods.
Hi , i just changed my lower intake gaskets and checked out the push rods , im able to spin them with my fingers but theres no up and down play in the push rod , should they be spinning like that ?
@ktmboy1989 don't determine the valve opening events by rotating the crank only. You should watch the pushrods, rockers or lifters to determine when the valves are actually opening. If you want to adjust lash on an engine that has the heads bolted in place already...just remove the valve covers and you can watch the pushrod ends and valve tips as the opening and closing events happen.
hello could you tell me my 4.3 has a lifter noise warm idle right side ticking maybe lifter could you adjust them when the motor is running also will it damage the cam
Every one of our videos on RUclips has our web address under the BoxWrench Logo at the top right. Check out our store for engine videos. There are also links in the (more info) area just below the logo that go directly to the videos product pages. Thanks for posting!
Hey nice video, i was wondering if this is the same for a 351 windsor I'm installing a comp cam 512 exhaust lift and I am useing 1.6 roller rocker arms
You only need to use a feeler gauge between the rocker tip and valve tip when doing lash on an engine that has Solid Lifters. The majority of engines these days have Hydraulic Lifters that run much more quietly. You set some "pre-load" on the lifters and then oil pressure builds up in the lifter and keeps pressure against the rocker to keep it from chattering while the engine runs. Solid (Mechanical) Lifters generally are a bit chattery sounding, but you do need to run them with clearances.
@tabletop45 it is best for you to set each cylinder at TDC to tighten even non-adjustable rocker stud type cylinder heads. some engines have a lash tightening sequence that you can follow to minimize the rotations of the engine in order to preserve the moly lube on the camshaft.
Excellent video and website, I have found that one revolution after free play is gone equates to approximately 0.060" between the bottom of the lifter snap ring and the top of the lifter seat. If you like second check stuff like I do, you can verify they are all the same with a piece of wire with a bend on one end approximately 3/32". A 1/16" diameter piece of stainless steel weld wire works good for this as it is 0.0625". Of course you need to have the intake removed to do this, and this dimension may be different with different lifter manufacturers. This is just a second check to verify they are close to all the same.
I bought a 1978 Camaro with a 350 engine, But with a 2 barrel carb setup, Once I removed the 2 barrel carb and intake, i noticed two push rods extremely loose. Before removing the 2 barrel setup, I marked the timing, s. So I am thinking I will need to remove the Valve cover and tighten the two loose push rods.. Is that going to work? Of course, it was easier to work on that with the intake off, but that was not possible, I will need to make sure those cylinders are on Compression mode.
@jujutube123 The half turn is fine for an average 'hydraulic' lifter. It may seem like too much if the valve begins to open just a bit... but if you put a dial indicator on the tip of the valve, add the half turn and watch the valve open...in a couple minutes the pressure will bleed off in the lifter and the valve will return to it's seat. Pretty much all hydraulic lifters behave this way.
You would only know if you were on the actual TDC for #1 cylinder if you had the heads, valve train + rocker arm installed and were looking for the valve events as described in this video (or the follow up of the Final Assembly of cylinder heads in our DVD). When you're at #1 cylinder closing event of the intake lifter for #1 cylinder (stock camshafts only) you can then adjust the valve lash to "zero" for the #1 intake, add the extra half turn and follow through along the firing order.
@lakeboy36111 ... 1 - note #1 plug wire position and pull the distributor cap, 2 - rotate the engine to #1 TDC (rotor @#1 and timing mark on balancer @0deg, 3 - adjust i&e rockers to 0 lash then add 1/2 turn, 4 - rotate the crank 1/4 turn (90 deg) and watch for the #8 i rocker to drop and stop then adj i&e rockwers to 0 lash then add 1/2 turn, 5 - repeat and adjust cylinders 4-3-6-5-7 and 2, in that order. You will only have to rotate the crank a total of 630 deg (1-3/4 turns).
La arandela cóncava q se coloca entre la tuerca y el balancín debe de tener un poco holgura? Si entra ajustada sin juego , podría producir fallo de cierre de válvula?
When I was in auto shop classes in high school in the late 1970's, my teacher taught me how to memorize the firing order of an inline 6cyl. chevy engine...(Too young, Too old, Just right) 15 36 24
Either you are not in the # 1 firing position or you are not taking the slack out of the push rod correctly . If I was guessing I would probably say you are not in the # 1 firing position.
@@devicetrickz you could have a bent push rod or a lifter that is failing , or a cam that is going flat . Any of the above can give you problems with loose push rods .
@Roger Riekki , is it possible that your socket was resting on the rocker arm nut during tightening to zero lash as mentioned in the video? That would cause some rocker arms (random few out of total of 16 for a V8 engine) to seem loose after going through full valve train. The video suggests holding the socket up and away from the top of the rocker nut to avoid pinching... Does this seem related to your issue?
When I set lifters I lift the sock up on the nut about 3/16 of an inch so that you are not pushing down on the rocker arm . If push down with your socket it won't work right .
effects of engin change on the transmition? i changed my diesel 2400 engin with 2400 petrol engin but kept the transmission same .on my mitsubishi pajero 88 three door ..
More likely a bog happening just off of idle (as in you mash on the pedal and the engine feels like it hesitates before making power) is related to either ignition timing is off, or the fuel delivery for 'off-idle' is lacking. Timing could be retarded from initial getting into early RPMs about 1000-2000 or carburetor accelerator pump system isn't delivering strong enough off-idle pump shot or fuel injection system isn't delivering enough fuel during early RPMs just after off-idle...
+youreallbrainwashed The same as this vid. Follow the instruction at the end of the video - you go in "firing order" which is also something you can determine by looking on your 4.3's distributor cap. Should be like 1-6-5-4-3-2 on pretty much every 4.3 v6 chevy ever made.
Can the lifters be set correctly as long as the cylinder is anywhere in the compression stroke? Must it be at TDC? It seems to me as long as the cylinder is anywhere in it's compression stroke, both of the valves must be completely closed (therefore the lifter would be on the base circle), otherwise it wouldn't be making compression. is this correct?
Essentially what you describe is correct and is what this video is describing. This video assumes that the engine builder is working with flat tappet camshaft (non-roller) and has applied camshaft break-in lubricant to the cam lobes during the final assembly of a new engine build or rebuild. The intent of this video is to get through the valve lash setting of all 16 cam lobes of a V-8 engine all within one single rotation of the camshaft (2 rotations of the crankshaft). As described in the video, once you have adjusted the lash for both intake and exhaust lifters for your #1 cylinder set just after TDC, you would look to the next set of lifters for the next cylinder in your firing order sequence. For this Chevy engine, the next cylinder in the FO is the #8 cylinder and without rotating the crank/cam at all, a look at the #8 cylinder reveals that the intake lifter for the #8 cylinder is still in a slightly open postion while the camshaft is parked in the #1 TDC position. This will be the case through your entire firing order. This is the reason to follow the videos instructions when adjusting lash for stock camshafts (non high performance) with flat tappet (non-rolller lifter) camshaft engines. The procedure in the video will have you adjusting both intake and exhaust rockers arms during the TDC event of each cylinder in the firing order sequence and will take you through only one revolution of the camshaft in order to preserve as much of the camshaft break-in lubricant for your flat tappet camshaft as possible for initial start-up of the engine.
Wayne Davis Do yourself a huge favor and buy the book step by step Video book Rebuilding the small block Chevy. You would have to be blind not too understand this DVD and book from Amazon. 30 buck's and your a professional.
By the way...My reply above that your pushrods are too long is based on my assumption that your roller rocker tips are getting close to rolling off of the valve tip side that is closest to the outside of the engine (the exhaust exit side of the head). If your pushrods are too short, the the roller tips would be closer to the intake manifold side of the valve tips.
There are different types of roller lifters, with respect to the rocker arm up top on a pushrod engine. There are roller tip and full roller rocker versions...there are also different types of roller rocker stud mounts, adjustable and fixed. This video is intended to show valve lash tightening procedure as it relates to any engine that has engine block mounted camshaft paired with lifters and rocker arms. It does not matter if the rocker arms are roller fulcrum, roller tip, full roller or ball pivot style. Video also shows proper procedure to follow firing order for rocker studs that are adjustable threaded, or fixed mount stud. Hydraulic lifters need the 'pre-load' additional turn of the wrench if adjustable studs are present and any solid lifter use will require a feeler gauge gap added at zero lash adjustment. There are also overhead camshaft engines that do not have lifters, pushrod or rocker arms...this full length DVD does not refer to any overhead camshaft engine models.
this is the simplest most straightforward video if you're looking for help and guidance. most other guys tend to throw in a lot of extra info and procedures that are just confusing. follow the firing order like he says and you're golden.
One of the better Self-Help videos I've seen.
I like his video..... well done!
At around 1:28 into the video, he shows spinning the push rod to determine when zero lash has been achieved.
I believe that there is a more accurate way to do this!
With the intake manifold not yet installed (as in the video), and prior to the cam followers being oiled up, we have the perfect opportunity to watch the plunger as it just begins to move downward.
Once it begins to move, we have established zero lash.
This eliminates a potential error that may be made while spinning the push rod.
At 1:34, he makes a good point. If we use a shallow socket, we can prevent this.
At 2:28, he begins to talk about what is known as the 8 stop static procedure.
He begins with # 1 cylinder at TDC C/S.
Once done with # 1, you will rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees, and you are ready to adjust the next cylinder in the firing order.
Keep going right down the firing order until you reach # 1 again.
The crankshaft will have made 2 rotations, while the camshaft will have made only one full rotation.
I strongly suggest that we use the 8 stop procedure, rather than the 2 or 3 stop.
This is one of the best valve lash video's I have viewed with reference to a new engine, thank you.
Older engines (aka pushrod engines) are what need to be rebuilt. This is probably why this is what this video series focuses on...
agreed, i'm not a big import fan or ford fan for that matter, but i give much respect to anybody putting some wrench time on their rides
Thanks for this video. Im putting my fiero engine back in and just put the new heads on. This video was a huge help.
Thanks for having this video here! I with my brother's help am rebuilding a 1980's slant6 in a Dodge D150 shortbed (it's on Wikipedia) and this was a holdup besides the weather here in Alaska in getting the truck back on the road. I learned a lot with this video. THANKS!
@saw426 Yes, any of the valves that are in the closed position will allow you to spin the pushrods in your fingers, but you'll have no up and don't slack if the lash is set properly on a hydraulic lifter.
Any of the valves that are open or being held open at all by a camshaft lobe will be too tight in the rocker arm to spin with your fingers.
How I can do that with a 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix GT the same thing my car is a v6
This is the best video i have seen on how to adjust rocker arms . Thanks !
Best how to video on valve lash settings for sure. Thanks.
@nicksare If you watch again and pay attention to what is said, you'll realize that we are giving generalized instructions for all types of engine owners to use.
The firing order and procedure shown is for small block Chevy, but the instructions say to follow your specific firing order associated with your engine type.
With this video, and the engine specs for your block (American V8 engine specs are available at our website) you can perform the same procedure on Ford, Chevy or any other...
@lakeboy36111 This is only a short sample clip from a 3 hour DVD.
The full length version shows you how to adjust the lash when the intake is installed.
It's pretty simple. The pushrods are still going to be reachable just above the cylinder heads and below the rockers. You can roll them in your fingers there, instead of in the lifter valley.
@StealthNinjaX2 If you have hydraulic lifters, in the short term it will just be the annoyance of the chattering rockers and you're valves will be a couple thousandths of an inch shy of fully opening (but not always).
In the long term, you'll begin to wear out the matting surfaces of where the rockers meet the valves or where the cam lobes meet the valves... depending on what type of valve train design you have.
Nicely done. A clear and concise explanation. Thanks.
@ktmboy1989 amount of rotation to get to the next cylinder is directly related to the type of engine and crankshaft. The degrees of rotation of a 4 cylinder crankshaft tied to one of two overhead cams compared to an 8 cylinder crankshaft connected to a single cam will be completely unrelated. That's why you look at the valves and their opening events to determine TDC for each cylinder. Only the #1 cylinder is timed to the mark on the balancer/timing cover
Best video I've ever seen on valves anyone can do this the way u explain it thanks
The lash adjustment method shown here is the only way to cover all bases with multiple make of engines. A GM manual may only apply to a select number of years and cam specs using the #1 TDC and #6 TDC lash adjust method. Our DVDs consider all engine makes and types (including 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder models) and shows a valve lash method that can be used for all engine types.
For many GM blocks though, the #1-#6 method works well.
@aBlascakProduction the rocker will possibly move just a bit but it will feel tight.
The pushrod will not move after the initial extra turn, but when any pressure bleeds off inside the lifter and after a few rotations of the engine, the pushrod with spin slightly when the cam lobe is at bottom and the valve is closed. But as soon as the valve starts to open, the pushrod will firm up and will not be able to spin in your fingertips.
@jasonz28camaro Being able to adjust both valves at the point when the intake closes depends on the type of camshaft you have.
In most stock engines with a factory installed 'low-profile' cam, it is safe to adjust both the intake and exhaust at TDC for the particular cylinder. When you have a high performance camshaft, the opening and closing events of the cam lobes are more radical and you need to adjust according to the cam manufacturers specs.
This video will get you to the point where you can fire up the engine. But once the engine is up to temperature, you have to adjust the lifters again a second time while the engine is running in order to make max power. On solids, use a feeler gauge while the engine is running. On hydraulic, you tighten down till you just get lifter noise. Then back up a quarter turn. For racing you can adjust to where it just starts to tick. Use oil deflectors or cut away on old valve cover.
@StanMangler
We're glad you found the 'Valve Lash' video portion sample here on RUclips helpful.
The clip on YT is just a sample from our full length 'Basic Engine Building' DVD.
Let us know if you still had questions after watching the sample clip. There is a lot more information in the complete DVD but we're interested in whether the sample clip alone is helpful enough to get the job done for other applications other than the ones shown.
How do I determine if my lifters are bad or the rocker arms need ajusting? The enginer is a 2.9L V six 200k mile and nothing has been done to the engine. I hear some ticking sometimes when the engine is cold then it goes away. It is expecially bad if the truck has not been run for a few days. The oil pressure is OK and the lifters are hydolic. I put some heavier oil in the engine and seems to help. Will I need to adjust the rockers after lifter replace?
Shane
Does a Buick Lesabre 3800 V6 have valve adjustments?
I have a 1974 Buick 350 and no adjustments on the rocker arms . Just the 4 bolts that hold the rocker arm assembly in place . What to do ?
what does the rotation look like for a 250 CI straight six???any idea?got some valves and rods that need adjusting.
@ts46176 yup, this is just a 'sample clip'.
this is a 3 minute excerpt from a full length DVD that is over 3 hours long.
'Basic Engine Building' shows complete teardown, machine shop procedures, pre-assembly, final sealing and assembly as well as start-up guidelines...
If you're actually going to tinker with any kind of piston engine, it's worth checking out.
Thanks for watching the sample though... Glad it was helpful
Excellent video Its been so long since I've done this thanks for helping to refresh my memory lol
Excellent video with excellent information. Keep up great work. There is a lot in this video to learn. Regards,
sample clip? i pulled my valve covers off my chevy 4.3 and did exactly what the video showed, went from sounding like its going to blow up to being so quiet you can barely hear it running, if this is just a sample what else could be involved? seems pretty complete to me, hope it is anyway lol
Just had head work done on big block Chevy. On 1st start sounds like squeaky noise. What went wrong? How can one tell if I have solid or hydraulic?
will the actual rocker be able to move a little after the half turn, or will it be tight enough to not move around on the stud?
Thanks for the help! But... the roller tips aren't rolling off the intake manifold or exhaust side of the valve tips, its side to side, or from firewall to engine fan. Any ideas? Thanks again
@jujutube123 With solid lifters, you stop turning at 'zero lash' with the correct feeler gauge installed.
With hydraulic lifers (roller or flat tappet) you set to 'zero lash' and then add at least a half turn more. Some engines even require a bit more.
You may notice the valve open slightly, but as the pressure inside the lifter bleeds off, the valve will return to it's seat.
This is all covered in detail in the 3 hours long 'Basic Engine Building' DVD
hey great video, im just wondering how to get the zero lash with both valves closed with the intake manifold on without being able to see the lifters. Im guessing its aot harder to eyeball where the rockers are sitting? I just had one head done on a older chev 350. Not too sure.
@jujutube123 This is the correct procedure for taking a hydraulic lifer to zero lash and then adding the required pre-load to the lifter. The pre-load is set by turning the rocker nut down the extra half turn after reaching zero lash.
With solid lifters, you go to zero lash with a specific feeler gauge between the valve tip and the rocker. For hydraulic lifters, you need to do the procedure described here, including the extra half turn.
so can you adjust both rockers for each cylinder at the point in the video where you only did the intake?
Pretty much yes, as you described.
You're looking for the closing event of the #1 intake valve though, not the cylinder itself. The cylinder comes up twice through the four strokes, once for compression and the next time for the exhaust stoke, then repeats.
With no timing cover in place you'd be able to line up the timing marks and adjust the #1 cylinder only. Then you'd have to determine the closing events of each of the other cylinders to properly adjust them, just follow the firing order.
@ktmboy1989 A quarter turn is correct, since the crank rotates twice to complete a full firing order. The camshaft rotates at half-crank speed, so 1/4 crank turn = 1/8 cam turn = next piston tdc firing.
ktmboy is correct, you can set all valves with only 2 rotations of the engine, this saves the cam lobs and bigend bearings in a total engine rebuild.
finally, somebody got it right. This is the best way to adjust your valve lash, never had any issues in over 40 years of wrenching on cars!!
This video was very helpful as I am doing a complete rebuild on my very first egine unassisted.. Thanks
You guys have some great vids! I have a 67 Mustang with a 302 out of a later model. It has aluminum heads and roller rockers, and Im having a problem with the roller tips being too far to the side of the valve stems, and some of them are close to rolling off the sides. How can I correct this? Thanks for the help
Hydraulic lifters in combination with rockers are adjusted with too much slack will "chatter" when running. This clacking-chatting noise will be more severe when there is more slack and will be heard coming from under the valve covers as the sounds are created by the slack between the rockers tips and the valve tips as the lifters push and then relax tension on the pushrods.
Engines with solid lifters need to keep a bit of clearance between the rockers and valve tips because of heat expansion.
soaking the lifters in oil will allow them to pump up a bit quicker but is not a requirement.
As soon as oil pressure builds, a set of new lifters will fill quickly under oil pressure and begin to send oil up the pushrods.
these guys are very imformative.
Hi , i just changed my lower intake gaskets and checked out the push rods , im able to spin them with my fingers but theres no up and down play in the push rod , should they be spinning like that ?
@brakedd this does apply to roller lifter engine designs as well...as long as they have hydraulic lifters
Ok you talked about setting each cylinder intake to its lower position now do adjust both intake and exhaust for that cylinder?
2:20 "If you had a gauge installed" to measure the pressure in the lifter.....how in the world is that set up?
does all of this apply to late model (1990) small block ford adjustment as well? its a roller motor
@ktmboy1989 don't determine the valve opening events by rotating the crank only.
You should watch the pushrods, rockers or lifters to determine when the valves are actually opening.
If you want to adjust lash on an engine that has the heads bolted in place already...just remove the valve covers and you can watch the pushrod ends and valve tips as the opening and closing events happen.
Adjust valves by ear as engine is idling?
so if im thinking right, you adjust to zero lash then give it another half turn?
hello could you tell me my 4.3 has a lifter noise warm idle right side ticking maybe lifter could you adjust them when the motor is running also will it damage the cam
That's correct, you want to add a zinc additive to modern engine oil when you are using a flat tappet camshaft and lifters set.
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There are also links in the (more info) area just below the logo that go directly to the videos product pages.
Thanks for posting!
if u over tighten the valve by 1/4 turn will that affect the timing at all,,thanks
Hey nice video, i was wondering if this is the same for a 351 windsor I'm installing a comp cam 512 exhaust lift and I am useing 1.6 roller rocker arms
Something I neededd to know, thank you for posting.
Yes, with higher oil pressure filling em up. I've learned as much since then. Thanks.
You only need to use a feeler gauge between the rocker tip and valve tip when doing lash on an engine that has Solid Lifters.
The majority of engines these days have Hydraulic Lifters that run much more quietly. You set some "pre-load" on the lifters and then oil pressure builds up in the lifter and keeps pressure against the rocker to keep it from chattering while the engine runs.
Solid (Mechanical) Lifters generally are a bit chattery sounding, but you do need to run them with clearances.
Best explanation I've seen.Thanks for the great simple video.cheers mate!
@tabletop45 it is best for you to set each cylinder at TDC to tighten even non-adjustable rocker stud type cylinder heads.
some engines have a lash tightening sequence that you can follow to minimize the rotations of the engine in order to preserve the moly lube on the camshaft.
while turning the camshaft, the firing order in the video would apply to any v8 engines?
you rotate the engine an eighth of a turn to get to the next valve right not a quarter, right?
This procedure I should use with lifters full of oil or empty?
You should let your lifters sit upright in engine oil before installing em. Don't need to plunge em or anything, the air will escape and they're good
thanks !
Excellent video and website, I have found that one revolution after free play is gone equates to approximately 0.060" between the bottom of the lifter snap ring and the top of the lifter seat. If you like second check stuff like I do, you can verify they are all the same with a piece of wire with a bend on one end approximately 3/32". A 1/16" diameter piece of stainless steel weld wire works good for this as it is 0.0625". Of course you need to have the intake removed to do this, and this dimension may be different with different lifter manufacturers. This is just a second check to verify they are close to all the same.
I bought a 1978 Camaro with a 350 engine, But with a 2 barrel carb setup, Once I removed the 2 barrel carb and intake, i noticed two push rods extremely loose. Before removing the 2 barrel setup, I marked the timing, s. So I am thinking I will need to remove the Valve cover and tighten the two loose push rods.. Is that going to work? Of course, it was easier to work on that with the intake off, but that was not possible, I will need to make sure those cylinders are on Compression mode.
After i do the half turn should i be able to spin the pushrod?
@jujutube123
The half turn is fine for an average 'hydraulic' lifter. It may seem like too much if the valve begins to open just a bit... but if you put a dial indicator on the tip of the valve, add the half turn and watch the valve open...in a couple minutes the pressure will bleed off in the lifter and the valve will return to it's seat.
Pretty much all hydraulic lifters behave this way.
my engine makes a clicking noise when cold, i think my valves need to be adjusted, what problems can occur if i dont adjust right away?
How long before hydraulic lifter sets down?
You would only know if you were on the actual TDC for #1 cylinder if you had the heads, valve train + rocker arm installed and were looking for the valve events as described in this video (or the follow up of the Final Assembly of cylinder heads in our DVD). When you're at #1 cylinder closing event of the intake lifter for #1 cylinder (stock camshafts only) you can then adjust the valve lash to "zero" for the #1 intake, add the extra half turn and follow through along the firing order.
The best explanation by far.
@lakeboy36111 ...
1 - note #1 plug wire position and pull the distributor cap,
2 - rotate the engine to #1 TDC (rotor @#1 and timing mark on balancer @0deg,
3 - adjust i&e rockers to 0 lash then add 1/2 turn,
4 - rotate the crank 1/4 turn (90 deg) and watch for the #8 i rocker to drop and stop then adj i&e rockwers to 0 lash then add 1/2 turn,
5 - repeat and adjust cylinders 4-3-6-5-7 and 2, in that order. You will only have to rotate the crank a total of 630 deg (1-3/4 turns).
La arandela cóncava q se coloca entre la tuerca y el balancín debe de tener un poco holgura? Si entra ajustada sin juego , podría producir fallo de cierre de válvula?
When I was in auto shop classes in high school in the late 1970's, my teacher taught me how to memorize the firing order of an inline 6cyl. chevy engine...(Too young, Too old, Just right) 15 36 24
hahaha nice mnemonic
Do you mean, how can you hear the chatter while the engine is running...? You would notice it even with the hood closed.
WHAT if I did this method and some of the rocker arms are still slightly loose? Did I not hit zero lash properly?
Either you are not in the # 1 firing position or you are not taking the slack out of the push rod correctly . If I was guessing I would probably say you are not in the # 1 firing position.
Bryan Juranek it looked like I was in the right firing order for cylinder #1
@@devicetrickz you could have a bent push rod or a lifter that is failing , or a cam that is going flat . Any of the above can give you problems with loose push rods .
@Roger Riekki , is it possible that your socket was resting on the rocker arm nut during tightening to zero lash as mentioned in the video?
That would cause some rocker arms (random few out of total of 16 for a V8 engine) to seem loose after going through full valve train. The video suggests holding the socket up and away from the top of the rocker nut to avoid pinching...
Does this seem related to your issue?
When I set lifters I lift the sock up on the nut about 3/16 of an inch so that you are not pushing down on the rocker arm . If push down with your socket it won't work right .
effects of engin change on the transmition? i changed my diesel 2400 engin with 2400 petrol engin but kept the transmission same .on my mitsubishi pajero 88 three door ..
Will improper valve lash cause the engine to bog off idle?
More likely a bog happening just off of idle (as in you mash on the pedal and the engine feels like it hesitates before making power) is related to either ignition timing is off, or the fuel delivery for 'off-idle' is lacking. Timing could be retarded from initial getting into early RPMs about 1000-2000 or carburetor accelerator pump system isn't delivering strong enough off-idle pump shot or fuel injection system isn't delivering enough fuel during early RPMs just after off-idle...
what is the valve adjustment sequence on a gm 4.3 v6?
+youreallbrainwashed The same as this vid. Follow the instruction at the end of the video - you go in "firing order" which is also something you can determine by looking on your 4.3's distributor cap. Should be like 1-6-5-4-3-2 on pretty much every 4.3 v6 chevy ever made.
165432
Can the lifters be set correctly as long as the cylinder is anywhere in the compression stroke? Must it be at TDC? It seems to me as long as the cylinder is anywhere in it's compression stroke, both of the valves must be completely closed (therefore the lifter would be on the base circle), otherwise it wouldn't be making compression. is this correct?
Essentially what you describe is correct and is what this video is describing. This video assumes that the engine builder is working with flat tappet camshaft (non-roller) and has applied camshaft break-in lubricant to the cam lobes during the final assembly of a new engine build or rebuild. The intent of this video is to get through the valve lash setting of all 16 cam lobes of a V-8 engine all within one single rotation of the camshaft (2 rotations of the crankshaft). As described in the video, once you have adjusted the lash for both intake and exhaust lifters for your #1 cylinder set just after TDC, you would look to the next set of lifters for the next cylinder in your firing order sequence. For this Chevy engine, the next cylinder in the FO is the #8 cylinder and without rotating the crank/cam at all, a look at the #8 cylinder reveals that the intake lifter for the #8 cylinder is still in a slightly open postion while the camshaft is parked in the #1 TDC position. This will be the case through your entire firing order. This is the reason to follow the videos instructions when adjusting lash for stock camshafts (non high performance) with flat tappet (non-rolller lifter) camshaft engines. The procedure in the video will have you adjusting both intake and exhaust rockers arms during the TDC event of each cylinder in the firing order sequence and will take you through only one revolution of the camshaft in order to preserve as much of the camshaft break-in lubricant for your flat tappet camshaft as possible for initial start-up of the engine.
Wayne Davis Do yourself a huge favor and buy the book step by step Video book
Rebuilding the small block Chevy. You would have to be blind not too understand this DVD and book from Amazon. 30 buck's and your a professional.
Kkj
Love your video.
@SchizoFilms theres no pushrods in an OHC engine. The Camshaft itself is was opens the valves.
By the way...My reply above that your pushrods are too long is based on my assumption that your roller rocker tips are getting close to rolling off of the valve tip side that is closest to the outside of the engine (the exhaust exit side of the head).
If your pushrods are too short, the the roller tips would be closer to the intake manifold side of the valve tips.
Can i tappet adjust by this method on gm 4.3 vortec v6
is it possibly solid lifters?
Is this the same procedure for a roller lifter?
There are different types of roller lifters, with respect to the rocker arm up top on a pushrod engine. There are roller tip and full roller rocker versions...there are also different types of roller rocker stud mounts, adjustable and fixed.
This video is intended to show valve lash tightening procedure as it relates to any engine that has engine block mounted camshaft paired with lifters and rocker arms. It does not matter if the rocker arms are roller fulcrum, roller tip, full roller or ball pivot style. Video also shows proper procedure to follow firing order for rocker studs that are adjustable threaded, or fixed mount stud. Hydraulic lifters need the 'pre-load' additional turn of the wrench if adjustable studs are present and any solid lifter use will require a feeler gauge gap added at zero lash adjustment.
There are also overhead camshaft engines that do not have lifters, pushrod or rocker arms...this full length DVD does not refer to any overhead camshaft engine models.
how much does it cost to replace a broken valve in nissan altima 1998 model ?
lerlo, What do you think a Holden is? It's a Chevrolet with a slightly different skin. They are GM.
As for this video, great job, keep them coming.
One of the best explained and demonstrated vids I've seen. #likedandsubscribed
Is regular engine oil ok as lube for the rods? or do I need legit lubrication?
Great video! Thanks!
Thanks for the video. I knew how to adjust valve but I didn't know to follow the firing order.
@cacthuptoit if you have hydraulic lifters, yes this is the procedure.
you can start the engine up with special made valve pans. run it and not have oil spray on you. and really hear if the engine has a few backed off
is the diagram at 2;48 the same as a chevy 350
what about the feeler guage? don't you need to follow spec's for at least .001 clearnce?
Спасибо, очень просто и понятно