Hi guys I just wanted to Introduce to you my other Channel "Kirkman's Academy" - which i'm just getting started. It's a go-to channel for simple explanations for hard to grasp subjects such as physics, maths and chemistry etc. Here is the link: www.youtube.com/@kirkmansacademy/videos . Thank you so much for looking, and if these topics interest you then I hope to see you the there. Many thanks indeed. Craig 😊👍
Plenty of videos out there about HOW but this is great to explain WHY. I'm about to adjust the valve clearance on an old Mercedes diesel which I realize is different mechanically but much of this absolutely applies. Well done.
Nice demonstration and explanation. I had a rough understanding of the importance of valve clearances. But, this cleared up a lot of my un-educated guessing as to what exactly was happening. I am nearly certain valve clearance issues are causing rough start and performance issues on my lawn tractor.
Very nice thats why time to time my motorcycle exhaust note sounds different than the last time we check the clearances... and the engines response too
Loved the clarity and detail, and as a DIY unschooled mechanic, I learned some good points. Since learning about it, I have been setting my valves as near to "zero-lash" as possible always allowing for pushrod rotation when valve fully closed
I'm delighted to hear that you enjoyed my video on 4-stroke valve clatter/lash and found it helpful for your mechanic endeavors! It's fantastic that you've taken an interest in setting your valves and striving for a "zero-lash" adjustment. Indeed, paying attention to the finer details like allowing for pushrod rotation when the valve is fully closed can make a significant difference in how your engine performs. It's all about achieving that optimal valve clearance to ensure efficient combustion and minimize noise. Keep up the great work, and if you ever have more questions or need further advice on any DIY mechanical tasks, feel free to reach out. Learning and hands-on experience are key in this field, and your dedication is truly commendable! Thanks again Craig
Learned a lot as I always do when I watch your videos. I feel that you are the best at explaining the basis function as well as the nuances of small engines. Thank you
I genuinely appreciate you good sir. I am a duck in the desert messing with my sons gocart. This was a real blessing keep up with the spreading of knowledge!
I'm someone who doesn't know much about engine but plan to rebuild 2t dirt bike down the road and want to build a mini bike with a predator engine. This video cleared up confusion and questions for sure. Great video
Superb, I have learn a lot here ,You explain this very carefully with very specific technical information wording, This will remain with me forever. Thank you very much, specially for your time to do such good informative video. It's has help me a lots. Thank you 😊.
Very Enlightening Indeed. How much we take things for Granted. Just Finishing off some work on my 1970 Cortina Mk2 1600 so will definitely look into this area. The engine though is done only about 4000kms since a full overhaul.
One thing about the exhaust valve opening earlier to swirl in air. The exploded gasses are still expanding. When the exhaust is opened, it is done so that the burnt gasses wouldn't push back on the piston creating resistance on the exhaust stroke. The moment the valve is opened, burnt gasses that are still expanding rush out trough the valve opening (and create the exhaust sound). I don't think air could have a chance at entering the cylinder - at least from my knowledge.
It’s not that the valve will begin to close too soon, it’s that there’s less distance for it to travel now, so it closes sooner. Opens later, closes sooner, valve still opens and closes as per the profile of the cam. A minor gripe, but I think an important distinction. Great video, I think it breaks down the basics very well!
I find that the toughest part is determining what stroke the engine is on when the flywheel is not marked, so I pull the spark plug and put a screwdriver in the hole and crank the engine until the piston tops out and screwdriver is at its highest point. Both valves are all the way up or in closed position. Then I check clearances with a feeler gauge. On a 9.5 Kohler they say .005 for intake and .007 for exhaust on a cold engine. Does this sound right to you. The engine really gets hot during continuous log splitting operation and smells hot sometimes. I think it needs better cooling system myself as well as a hydraulic oil cooler. I run 30 weight HD motor oil above 60 degrees F and 15w40 Rotella below 60 down to about 35 F. Anything colder gets full synthetic 10w30. The manual also says to ALWAYS run at full throttle. It's a screaming beast of a wood splitter.
Hey there! Your method of determining the stroke of the engine sounds resourceful-using a screwdriver to gauge the piston's highest point and checking the valve clearances with a feeler gauge is a great way to ensure everything's in sync. Regarding the Kohler 9.5, those clearances (.005 for intake and .007 for exhaust on a cold engine) seem pretty standard for that model. It's crucial to maintain these clearances for optimal engine performance. It's interesting that the engine heats up significantly during continuous log splitting operations. Improving the cooling system sounds like a smart move, especially considering the demanding nature of the work it's handling. Additionally, the idea of adding a hydraulic oil cooler might help with temperature regulation, ensuring smoother operation during those intense splitting sessions. Your approach to using different oils based on temperature variations is quite thoughtful. It's essential to adapt the oil viscosity to the ambient temperature, and your choice of motor oil seems well-suited to the engine's needs. Ah, the manual's advice to always run at full throttle! That certainly paints a vivid picture of your wood splitter as a real powerhouse. It's impressive how it operates at maximum capacity, showcasing its true beastly nature. Your hands-on approach and attention to detail are commendable. If there's anything else you're curious about or need further assistance with, feel free to reach out. Wishing you continued success in taming that beastly wood splitter! Thank for sharing your info Craig
Something else that is notable: It the engine runs out of fuel and dies when the ram is in the up stroke the engine will not start until the lever is put in the center or unloaded position. Owners manuls don't tell you this. Also I finally got spec sheet from Kohler on that valve clearance. It is .003 to .005 for BOTH the intake and exhaust valve. Every shop I called had different numbers here,....the ding bats. I reset both to .004 and it starts and runs much better now and I don't usually have to use the choke any more. Saweeeet. Remember you have a 4 stroke cycle going on and make sure you adjust valve clearance at TDC on the compression stroke. With plug out it is easy to tell. Put finger or thumb in plug hole. You get suction then compression which pushes your finger off the plug hole. TDC or a couple degrees after TDC on COMPRESSION stroke is what you want. Sweet & simple. @@TheRepairSpecialist
Liked, commented and subscribed!! Thank you for the information in such a simple strait forward format. Would love to see a more in depth symptom video from you!
So here’s a question if anybody sees this and wants to chime in. I am looking at doing a valve adjustment on a KTM 390 engine and a lot of the tutorials I found on RUclips adjust the valve clearances on the looser end of the spec range as opposed to the tighter end of the range? They state they do that because they’re worried about the cylinder head hitting the valves. However, based on this video that doesn’t seem likely unless the engine is not timed, right. It also seems less likely on the intake instead of exhaust. In my mind going tighter in the gap range would leave room to wear thus staying in spec longer?
just a mention, did you know that you can increase compression in a lot of applications, by having a larger lash on the intake valve,,,,, why you ask? because just like it takes a little longer to start opening the intake valve when the intake lash, it also closes sooner, so that the piston may not started traveling upwards or traveled upwards as far, giving more stroke of the piston with the valves closed to build compression, basically its a very crude way to change cam timing
You have to mention how the cam grind is designed to open up the valve at the right angle of the camshaft design and closing. That way you're not beating up your valve train or burning up the valves.
Hello ,a question if you have time ofcource. Talking for a motorcycle (yamaha crypton T110) that having lets say 3rd ,4th gear and going with no throttle downhill then (always) hearing/happening burn fuel at exchaust (lets say every 10 seconds etc) So my question is ,,,suppose that carburator is fine(that maybe is not) Is it possible that incorrection adjustment ( or damage) in valves is provoking this chap of noise ?(that propably also make loose fuel more than it needs-not burned correctly fuels) Thank you in advance,
Hi there! Naturally, I'm pleased to assist you with your Yamaha Crypton T110 question. It's excellent that you're observing your motorcycle's sounds and behaviours. Although the issue may have something to do with the valves based on what you've mentioned, it's important to take other things into account as well. Incorrect valve adjustment or damage may be the cause of the noise you're hearing and inefficient fuel burning, but it's also a good idea to check other parts like the air filter, spark plugs, and ignition timing. All of these may have an impact on your motorcycle's overall performance and how well the engine burns fuel. To ensure an accurate diagnosis, it could be a good idea to get the vehicle inspected by a qualified mechanic if you are unsure about the issue. Please don't hesitate to inquire if you need help or have any further questions. Enjoy your ride! Thanks Craig
@@TheRepairSpecialist Thank you very very much. I ve just asked to be ready to face some strange engineers that even they dont know directly or even they just want my few money.Thats why,,,OK,,,i will check them as you ve said...Thank you for your video-lessons !!! Jim,,greedings from Athens(greece) PS..i like that noise because its making feel as Colin mcray coming to a corner !!(heheh) ..but i must correct it sometime !
I'm wondering why there's any suction force in the cylinder during the later part of the power stroke. I thought the pressure in the cylinder at this stage would be higher than atmospheric. Unless, the expansion of gases during combustion isn't enough to fill the cylinder when the piston is at BDC. Is this a consequence of volumetric efficiency (i.e. no naturally aspirated cylinder is ever 100% filled during the intake stroke) so there's bound to be a slight vacuum at BDC of power stroke? What am I missing?
Sir .. Thank you , very detailed step by step explanation . I am working in tractor diesel engine and we have "Tappet Noise" is the top most problem at our end . I am looking for the way to trouble shoot this concern. The operators follows the SOP of setting the gap on the engine assembly line . However when some of these engines go in the testing we here "Tappet Noise " at Low Ideal speed just start of the the test cycle and at the full load also . Will you please guide us on how to go step by step for the root cause analysis . We did it with one "Good : and One " Bad" engines but it was not leading us to any root cause. Pl help us. Thank you Ajay
Hi Tackling "Tappet Noise" in tractor diesel engines can indeed be a tricky challenge. It's commendable that you're looking for a systematic approach to troubleshoot and resolve this concern. When it comes to identifying the root cause of tappet noise occurring during testing, conducting a methodical root cause analysis is key. Here are a few steps that might help you in this process. However please take this as a guide only and to ensure your safety and the safety of your machines are met first and during the operation: Review Assembly SOP: Double-check the Standard Operating Procedures for tappet adjustment during assembly. Sometimes, even minor deviations during assembly might result in this noise issue. Check for Consistency: Ensure that the adjustment made during assembly is consistent across all engines. Variations or inaccuracies could lead to tappet noise in some units. Verify Components: Assess the quality and condition of tappets, pushrods, and related components. Any wear or inconsistencies could contribute to the noise. Oil Quality and Pressure: Evaluate the oil used for lubrication and ensure it meets specifications. Low oil pressure or poor quality oil might affect tappet performance. Testing Parameters: Review the test parameters and conditions to replicate the issue consistently. Check if there's any correlation with specific testing conditions leading to tappet noise. Acoustic Analysis: Consider employing tools for acoustic analysis or sensors to pinpoint the exact source and nature of the tappet noise. Comparative Analysis: Compare various aspects between 'Good' and 'Bad' engines, including assembly records, test data, and any deviations in parts used or adjustments made. Professional Assistance: If the issue persists, seeking the advice of expert engineers or specialists might provide new insights into the root cause. Remember, the key to successful troubleshooting often lies in methodical and systematic analysis. I hope ths helps a little Best regards, Craig
Dear Craig , Good Morning..! Thank you for your immediate response . It is much more in detailed approach for the analysis and made easy for me to understand. Today We have planned analysis with two engines which we have hold for tappet noise . We will follow the step by step approach . Please help to understand what is the role of . We have not worked or thought of this aspect ever. @@TheRepairSpecialist
Nice explanation 👌 so in theory you want the exhaust valve titer than the fuel valve mate. To keep the temps down. On engine and the let all smoke come out of port
Thank you so much for watching my video on valve clatter, and I appreciate your interest in the topic! In theory, adjusting valve clearances can indeed have an impact on engine performance and temperature control. However, the specific valve clearance settings can vary depending on the engine design and manufacturer's recommendations. It's not necessarily about having the exhaust valve tighter than the inlet valve, but rather about achieving the correct clearance for each valve. The main goal is to ensure that the valves open and close at the precise moments as specified by the engine's timing. This allows for efficient combustion, which helps with power output and emissions control. Tighter clearances can sometimes help reduce valve noise and improve low-end torque, but it's essential to consult your engine's manual or the manufacturer's recommendations for the proper valve clearance specifications. Ultimately, the goal is to maintain a balance between valve clearances to optimize engine performance, minimize noise, and ensure proper sealing. If you have more specific questions about your engine or valve adjustment, don't hesitate to ask, and I'll do my best to assist you further. I hope this has helped a little Craig
Thank you so much for your feedback! 😄 I'm glad you found the explanation of the 4-stroke valving system helpful. Regarding your question about the exhaust valve being too tight, if the exhaust valve clearance is too tight, it can affect the engine's performance. It might make it harder for your bike to start, as it could lead to insufficient exhaust valve lift and compression. However, this also depends on how tight it is and other factors. If you suspect that the exhaust valve clearance is off, it's a good idea to check and adjust it according to your bike's specifications. Proper valve clearance is essential for optimal engine performance and starting reliability. If you need guidance on how to check and adjust the valve clearances or have more questions about your bike's maintenance, feel free to ask. I'm here to help! Craig
What do you think about valve lashes to tight on my Honda rancher 350 trx I have oil coming out my exhaust and blow by tube in air box do you suppose this could be caused from over tight valves
My explanation usually consists of it just is, or it just does 😂 It takes a lot of effort to learn this trait and a lot more to teach it or explain it to others 😅 you did a great job though 👏👍
Hi guys I just wanted to Introduce to you my other Channel "Kirkman's Academy" - which i'm just getting started. It's a go-to channel for simple explanations for hard to grasp subjects such as physics, maths and chemistry etc. Here is the link: www.youtube.com/@kirkmansacademy/videos . Thank you so much for looking, and if these topics interest you then I hope to see you the there. Many thanks indeed. Craig 😊👍
so for excessesive push on the valve spring (no clearance + extra push) can cause overheating resulting on lean sparkplug reading?
Hi is it good to have a 0.05mm intake and 0.06mm exhaust valve clearance for 125cc pushrod engine?
excellent! how many people now have a clear understanding now as to why they set the clearances. thanks
Really appreciate this explanation
Hands down the best four-stroke video I have ever seen.
Thank you so much. I really appreciate it. Craig 👍👍👍
Plenty of videos out there about HOW but this is great to explain WHY. I'm about to adjust the valve clearance on an old Mercedes diesel which I realize is different mechanically but much of this absolutely applies. Well done.
Thank you so much for your kind feedback and good luck with your Mercedes Diesel valve clearance adjustment. Craig 👍
Man.. this is genosity. You could be a proffesor ;D
Thank you so much. Craig
Nice demonstration and explanation. I had a rough understanding of the importance of valve clearances. But, this cleared up a lot of my un-educated guessing as to what exactly was happening. I am nearly certain valve clearance issues are causing rough start and performance issues on my lawn tractor.
Very nice thats why time to time my motorcycle exhaust note sounds different than the last time we check the clearances... and the engines response too
Craig another well put together video. A very thorough explanation of how the valve train functions. Thank you for sharing. 👍
Thanks so much Artie. Craig
Loved the clarity and detail, and as a DIY unschooled mechanic, I learned some good points.
Since learning about it, I have been setting my valves as near to "zero-lash" as possible always allowing for pushrod rotation when valve fully closed
I'm delighted to hear that you enjoyed my video on 4-stroke valve clatter/lash and found it helpful for your mechanic endeavors! It's fantastic that you've taken an interest in setting your valves and striving for a "zero-lash" adjustment.
Indeed, paying attention to the finer details like allowing for pushrod rotation when the valve is fully closed can make a significant difference in how your engine performs. It's all about achieving that optimal valve clearance to ensure efficient combustion and minimize noise.
Keep up the great work, and if you ever have more questions or need further advice on any DIY mechanical tasks, feel free to reach out. Learning and hands-on experience are key in this field, and your dedication is truly commendable!
Thanks again
Craig
Never knew it was such a delicately balanced system in a sense, you explained it so clearly. Cheers pal
Nice video. The cutaway motor is a great tool to show this
Thanks 👍
And there's a huge slice taken out of the cylinder wall, leading to low compression.
😂👍
I'd be interested in seeing the leak-down test results...
Thank you ! It explain very whell why I have to check my valve clearence often on my motorcycles !
Excellent Dissertation ! Well Done, Sir !!! 🤓👍
Perfect explanation. 🙏 I’m glad I stumbled upon your channel
Seriously…this Gentleman’s channel is the best of RUclips.
Wow. Thank you. I really appreciate your kind feedback. Craig 👍👍👍👍
As one wag once said concerning valve clearances, "I'd rather hear 'em than smell 'em"!
I prefer to adjust them at the correct clearance so things aren't slapping around.
Learned a lot as I always do when I watch your videos. I feel that you are the best at explaining the basis function as well as the nuances of small engines. Thank you
Thank you. I really appreciate your kind and thoughtful comment. Craig 👍👍👍👍
That is correct. All parts clearances play an important role..❤
Very thorough guide! Excellent video!
Best explanation on RUclips! Bravo
Wow, thanks!
I UNDERSTAND THE WORKINGS OF THE VALVES MUCH BETTER NOW,THANKS TO YOUR BRILLIANT AND INFORMATIVE VIDEO,THANK YOU.
Best explanation I have ever seen!
I genuinely appreciate you good sir. I am a duck in the desert messing with my sons gocart. This was a real blessing keep up with the spreading of knowledge!
Thank you so much 👍👍👍
Never realised how many factors in play here. Excellent video, thanks! Will check my lawnmower tapers now…
Thank you 👍👍👍
Brilliantly explained - thank you!
You're very welcome! Thank you. Craig
I'm someone who doesn't know much about engine but plan to rebuild 2t dirt bike down the road and want to build a mini bike with a predator engine. This video cleared up confusion and questions for sure. Great video
I find your information very clear and understandable. Thank you..
Excellent demonstration. Thank you for sharing!!
You are welcome! Thank you
Your the best! Thank you for your teachings!
slow and gets to the point very easilly, woow! great content
Thank you 👍
Thanks very much, I was struggling with my tappets gaps ,but thank you because you explained practically and vividly 🎉❤
Superb, I have learn a lot here ,You explain this very carefully with very specific technical information wording, This will remain with me forever. Thank you very much, specially for your time to do such good informative video. It's has help me a lots. Thank you 😊.
I learned a lot by this video. Thank you for the clear explanation.
That lecture has been so helpful to me
Thank you 👍👍
Very Enlightening Indeed. How much we take things for Granted. Just Finishing off some work on my 1970 Cortina Mk2 1600 so will definitely look into this area. The engine though is done only about 4000kms since a full overhaul.
One thing about the exhaust valve opening earlier to swirl in air. The exploded gasses are still expanding. When the exhaust is opened, it is done so that the burnt gasses wouldn't push back on the piston creating resistance on the exhaust stroke.
The moment the valve is opened, burnt gasses that are still expanding rush out trough the valve opening (and create the exhaust sound). I don't think air could have a chance at entering the cylinder - at least from my knowledge.
It’s not that the valve will begin to close too soon, it’s that there’s less distance for it to travel now, so it closes sooner.
Opens later, closes sooner, valve still opens and closes as per the profile of the cam. A minor gripe, but I think an important distinction.
Great video, I think it breaks down the basics very well!
I find that the toughest part is determining what stroke the engine is on when the flywheel is not marked, so I pull the spark plug and put a screwdriver in the hole and crank the engine until the piston tops out and screwdriver is at its highest point. Both valves are all the way up or in closed position. Then I check clearances with a feeler gauge. On a 9.5 Kohler they say .005 for intake and .007 for exhaust on a cold engine. Does this sound right to you. The engine really gets hot during continuous log splitting operation and smells hot sometimes. I think it needs better cooling system myself as well as a hydraulic oil cooler. I run 30 weight HD motor oil above 60 degrees F and 15w40 Rotella below 60 down to about 35 F. Anything colder gets full synthetic 10w30. The manual also says to ALWAYS run at full throttle. It's a screaming beast of a wood splitter.
Hey there!
Your method of determining the stroke of the engine sounds resourceful-using a screwdriver to gauge the piston's highest point and checking the valve clearances with a feeler gauge is a great way to ensure everything's in sync. Regarding the Kohler 9.5, those clearances (.005 for intake and .007 for exhaust on a cold engine) seem pretty standard for that model. It's crucial to maintain these clearances for optimal engine performance.
It's interesting that the engine heats up significantly during continuous log splitting operations. Improving the cooling system sounds like a smart move, especially considering the demanding nature of the work it's handling. Additionally, the idea of adding a hydraulic oil cooler might help with temperature regulation, ensuring smoother operation during those intense splitting sessions.
Your approach to using different oils based on temperature variations is quite thoughtful. It's essential to adapt the oil viscosity to the ambient temperature, and your choice of motor oil seems well-suited to the engine's needs.
Ah, the manual's advice to always run at full throttle! That certainly paints a vivid picture of your wood splitter as a real powerhouse. It's impressive how it operates at maximum capacity, showcasing its true beastly nature.
Your hands-on approach and attention to detail are commendable. If there's anything else you're curious about or need further assistance with, feel free to reach out. Wishing you continued success in taming that beastly wood splitter!
Thank for sharing your info
Craig
Something else that is notable: It the engine runs out of fuel and dies when the ram is in the up stroke the engine will not start until the lever is put in the center or unloaded position. Owners manuls don't tell you this. Also I finally got spec sheet from Kohler on that valve clearance. It is .003 to .005 for BOTH the intake and exhaust valve. Every shop I called had different numbers here,....the ding bats. I reset both to .004 and it starts and runs much better now and I don't usually have to use the choke any more. Saweeeet. Remember you have a 4 stroke cycle going on and make sure you adjust valve clearance at TDC on the compression stroke. With plug out it is easy to tell. Put finger or thumb in plug hole. You get suction then compression which pushes your finger off the plug hole. TDC or a couple degrees after TDC on COMPRESSION stroke is what you want. Sweet & simple. @@TheRepairSpecialist
Beautiful demonstration thank you
Thank you so much 👍👍👍👍
Great visual explanation
Really complete and clear explanation
Thank you 👍👍👍
What a brilliant and easy to understand explanation, top job! Liked and subscribed.
Awesome, thank you so much for your kind feedback. I really appreciate it. Craig
You got a subscriber. Cool explanation 💯
Thank you so much for explaining, your way of teaching makes so much sense even for my dense head.
Cheers
You're very welcome! Thank you for your feedback. Craig 👍👍👍
Great explanation. Thank you.
You are welcome! Thank you 👍👍
Liked, commented and subscribed!! Thank you for the information in such a simple strait forward format. Would love to see a more in depth symptom video from you!
Thank you so much for your kind and motivating comment. Craig 👍👍👍
Great visual explanation!
Than you so much 👍
So here’s a question if anybody sees this and wants to chime in. I am looking at doing a valve adjustment on a KTM 390 engine and a lot of the tutorials I found on RUclips adjust the valve clearances on the looser end of the spec range as opposed to the tighter end of the range? They state they do that because they’re worried about the cylinder head hitting the valves. However, based on this video that doesn’t seem likely unless the engine is not timed, right. It also seems less likely on the intake instead of exhaust. In my mind going tighter in the gap range would leave room to wear thus staying in spec longer?
just a mention, did you know that you can increase compression in a lot of applications, by having a larger lash on the intake valve,,,,, why you ask? because just like it takes a little longer to start opening the intake valve when the intake lash, it also closes sooner, so that the piston may not started traveling upwards or traveled upwards as far, giving more stroke of the piston with the valves closed to build compression, basically its a very crude way to change cam timing
Thank you so much for your super informative videos. Really very helpfull. Learning so much.
You are so welcome! Thank you. Craig 👍
Awesome video!! Thanks for your time and knowledge!!
Thank you so much for your kind feedback. Craig 👍👍
You have to mention how the cam grind is designed to open up the valve at the right angle of the camshaft design and closing. That way you're not beating up your valve train or burning up the valves.
Dam... I did t know of anything about valves and engine, but now I sure do know thanks professor you did great
Thank you so much. Craig
svaka cast...odlicno brutalno objasnjeno...
Visuals are awesome. TY
Thank you so much 👍👍👍
Hello ,a question if you have time ofcource.
Talking for a motorcycle (yamaha crypton T110) that
having lets say 3rd ,4th gear and going with no throttle downhill
then (always) hearing/happening burn fuel at exchaust (lets say every 10 seconds etc)
So my question is ,,,suppose that carburator is fine(that maybe is not)
Is it possible that incorrection adjustment ( or damage) in valves
is provoking this chap of noise ?(that propably also make loose fuel more than it needs-not burned correctly fuels)
Thank you in advance,
Hi there! Naturally, I'm pleased to assist you with your Yamaha Crypton T110 question. It's excellent that you're observing your motorcycle's sounds and behaviours. Although the issue may have something to do with the valves based on what you've mentioned, it's important to take other things into account as well. Incorrect valve adjustment or damage may be the cause of the noise you're hearing and inefficient fuel burning, but it's also a good idea to check other parts like the air filter, spark plugs, and ignition timing.
All of these may have an impact on your motorcycle's overall performance and how well the engine burns fuel. To ensure an accurate diagnosis, it could be a good idea to get the vehicle inspected by a qualified mechanic if you are unsure about the issue. Please don't hesitate to inquire if you need help or have any further questions. Enjoy your ride!
Thanks
Craig
@@TheRepairSpecialist Thank you very very much. I ve just asked to be ready to face some strange engineers that even they dont know directly or even they just want my few money.Thats why,,,OK,,,i will check them as you ve said...Thank you for your video-lessons !!!
Jim,,greedings from Athens(greece)
PS..i like that noise because its making feel as Colin mcray coming to a corner !!(heheh)
..but i must correct it sometime !
Great explanation, very understanding
Thank you! much easier to understand.
Thanks brother it's very helpful to watch this
Always welcome
Clear, concise information.
Well done, sir.
Liked, subscribed.
Great vid! Clearances shown look like the actual settings for the exhaust valve on my re Himalayan 411 😅
Is it ok to set tappet loose after a fresh engine rebuild? the idea is to let valve seat to adjust properly cause they were built new too.
Than you very much for this very informative technical video. Appreciated a lot.
👍👍👍
So nice of you. Thank you. Craig
excellent explanation thank you
You are welcome! Thank you 👍👍👍
Best video I found
Well explained, keep up the good work.
Clearly spoken, very well presented.
Good Luck, Be Happy.
I'm wondering why there's any suction force in the cylinder during the later part of the power stroke. I thought the pressure in the cylinder at this stage would be higher than atmospheric.
Unless, the expansion of gases during combustion isn't enough to fill the cylinder when the piston is at BDC. Is this a consequence of volumetric efficiency (i.e. no naturally aspirated cylinder is ever 100% filled during the intake stroke) so there's bound to be a slight vacuum at BDC of power stroke?
What am I missing?
THE BEST EXPLANATION
Thank you for your kind feedback. Craig
is there a computation to determine the proper gap for any engine with the same mechanism?
@3:58 With the pressure in the cylinder there can't be any air flow into the cylinder when the exhaust valve opens can there?
Sir .. Thank you , very detailed step by step explanation . I am working in tractor diesel engine and we have "Tappet Noise" is the top most problem at our end . I am looking for the way to trouble shoot this concern. The operators follows the SOP of setting the gap on the engine assembly line . However when some of these engines go in the testing we here "Tappet Noise " at Low Ideal speed just start of the the test cycle and at the full load also . Will you please guide us on how to go step by step for the root cause analysis . We did it with one "Good : and One " Bad" engines but it was not leading us to any root cause.
Pl help us.
Thank you
Ajay
Hi
Tackling "Tappet Noise" in tractor diesel engines can indeed be a tricky challenge. It's commendable that you're looking for a systematic approach to troubleshoot and resolve this concern.
When it comes to identifying the root cause of tappet noise occurring during testing, conducting a methodical root cause analysis is key. Here are a few steps that might help you in this process. However please take this as a guide only and to ensure your safety and the safety of your machines are met first and during the operation:
Review Assembly SOP: Double-check the Standard Operating Procedures for tappet adjustment during assembly. Sometimes, even minor deviations during assembly might result in this noise issue.
Check for Consistency: Ensure that the adjustment made during assembly is consistent across all engines. Variations or inaccuracies could lead to tappet noise in some units.
Verify Components: Assess the quality and condition of tappets, pushrods, and related components. Any wear or inconsistencies could contribute to the noise.
Oil Quality and Pressure: Evaluate the oil used for lubrication and ensure it meets specifications. Low oil pressure or poor quality oil might affect tappet performance.
Testing Parameters: Review the test parameters and conditions to replicate the issue consistently. Check if there's any correlation with specific testing conditions leading to tappet noise.
Acoustic Analysis: Consider employing tools for acoustic analysis or sensors to pinpoint the exact source and nature of the tappet noise.
Comparative Analysis: Compare various aspects between 'Good' and 'Bad' engines, including assembly records, test data, and any deviations in parts used or adjustments made.
Professional Assistance: If the issue persists, seeking the advice of expert engineers or specialists might provide new insights into the root cause.
Remember, the key to successful troubleshooting often lies in methodical and systematic analysis.
I hope ths helps a little
Best regards,
Craig
Dear Craig ,
Good Morning..!
Thank you for your immediate response . It is much more in detailed approach for the analysis and made easy for me to understand. Today We have planned analysis with two engines which we have hold for tappet noise . We will follow the step by step approach .
Please help to understand what is the role of .
We have not worked or thought of this aspect ever.
@@TheRepairSpecialist
So great explanation
Thank you so much 🙏
You're most welcome. Thank you
Do valve clearances get larger as time goes on? Or do they get smaller? Or can they do both?
Not enough clearance can cause backfiring.
Absolutely 👍
Very informative, do you now anyware I could find the correct valve setting for a citroen u25 1993. Diesal none turbo..
Thank you for teaching us and making a cutaway so we all understand. Sub'd
Awesome, I’m really pleased you like it. Thank you 👍👍👍👍
Thanks for sharing very interesting video greetings from mexico
And all this happens lets say 12'000 per minute /superbike. It is 200 times per second! This is incredible!
Yeah. Even at 3,000rpms it's insane to think that piston is up-and-down 50 times a second.
I was told my warranty was denied for assumed reasoning. The engine failed because a tappet struck the spark plug. How is this possible?
Cars heads work off clearances or tolerances tolerances are torque specifications and clearances are as obvious clearances.
0.08 intake, 0.1 exhaust
Very well done sir!
Thank you! Cheers!👍
Nice explanation 👌 so in theory you want the exhaust valve titer than the fuel valve mate. To keep the temps down. On engine and the let all smoke come out of port
Thank you so much for watching my video on valve clatter, and I appreciate your interest in the topic!
In theory, adjusting valve clearances can indeed have an impact on engine performance and temperature control. However, the specific valve clearance settings can vary depending on the engine design and manufacturer's recommendations. It's not necessarily about having the exhaust valve tighter than the inlet valve, but rather about achieving the correct clearance for each valve.
The main goal is to ensure that the valves open and close at the precise moments as specified by the engine's timing. This allows for efficient combustion, which helps with power output and emissions control. Tighter clearances can sometimes help reduce valve noise and improve low-end torque, but it's essential to consult your engine's manual or the manufacturer's recommendations for the proper valve clearance specifications.
Ultimately, the goal is to maintain a balance between valve clearances to optimize engine performance, minimize noise, and ensure proper sealing. If you have more specific questions about your engine or valve adjustment, don't hesitate to ask, and I'll do my best to assist you further.
I hope this has helped a little
Craig
Good explanation.
So will my bike start if the exhaust valve is to tite
Thank you so much for your feedback! 😄 I'm glad you found the explanation of the 4-stroke valving system helpful.
Regarding your question about the exhaust valve being too tight, if the exhaust valve clearance is too tight, it can affect the engine's performance. It might make it harder for your bike to start, as it could lead to insufficient exhaust valve lift and compression. However, this also depends on how tight it is and other factors.
If you suspect that the exhaust valve clearance is off, it's a good idea to check and adjust it according to your bike's specifications. Proper valve clearance is essential for optimal engine performance and starting reliability.
If you need guidance on how to check and adjust the valve clearances or have more questions about your bike's maintenance, feel free to ask. I'm here to help! Craig
What do you think about valve lashes to tight on my Honda rancher 350 trx I have oil coming out my exhaust and blow by tube in air box do you suppose this could be caused from over tight valves
My explanation usually consists of it just is, or it just does 😂 It takes a lot of effort to learn this trait and a lot more to teach it or explain it to others 😅 you did a great job though 👏👍
When the air fuel mixture starts off compressed, and is ignited and expands, how could there ever be a vacuum during any point of the power stroke?
Does the incorrect tappets set contributes to more fuel consumption?
Thanks for explanation❤❤❤
Thank you so much 👍👍👍
Thank you 🙏 sir from India
Very nice explication
Greetings, in short, should the oral cavities be more open or less open? Thanks
Quality content thankyou.👍
Simply for heat expansion.
Great content love your channel
Very good info thank you
I heard that valve clearances get tighter over time due to valve seat recession. Is that correct?
Indeed I gain knowledge in this video